Chapter VII: Book III: From Ulietea to New Zealand (5)

By Mr. Wales with Dollond’s 3-1/2 foot achromatic }
refractor, at 3h 28ʹ 49-1/4ʺ}
By Mr. Clerke with Bird’s 2 foot reflector, } Apparent
at 3 28 52-1/4 } time
And by me with an 18 inch reflector, made }
by Watkins 3 28 53-1/4 }

Latitude of the isle or place of observation, 20° 17ʹ 39ʺ south.

Longitude per distance of the sun and moon, and moon and stars, 48 sets,
164° 41ʹ 21ʺ east.

Ditto per watch 163 58 0

Mr. Wales measured the quantity eclipsed by a Hadley’s quadrant, a method never before thought of. I am of opinion it answers the purpose of a micrometer to a great degree of certainty, and is a great addition to the use of this most valuable instrument. After all was over, we returned on board, where I found Teabooma the chief, who soon after slipped out of the ship without my knowledge, and by that means lost the present I had made up for him.

In the evening I went ashore to the watering-place, which was at the head of a little creek, at a fine stream that came from the hills. It was necessary to have a small boat in the creek to convey the casks from and to the beach over which they were rolled, and then put into the launch; as only a small boat could enter the creek, and that only at high water. Excellent wood for fuel was here far more convenient than water, but this was an article we did not want. About seven o’clock this evening, died Simon Monk, our butcher, a man much esteemed in the ship; his death being occasioned by a fall down the fore-hatchway the preceding night.

Early in the morning of the 7th, the watering-party, and a guard, under the command of an officer, were sent ashore; and soon after, a party of us went to take a view of the country. As soon as we landed, we made known our design to the natives, and two of them undertaking to be our guides, conducted us up the hills by a tolerably good path. In our route we met several people, most of whom turned back with us; so that at last our train was numerous. Some we met who wanted us to return; but we paid no regard to their signs, nor did they seem uneasy when we proceeded. At length we reached the summit of one of the hills, from which we saw the sea in two places, between some advanced hills on the opposite or S. W. side of the land. This was an useful discovery, as it enabled us to judge of the breadth of the land, which, in this part, did not exceed ten leagues.

Between those advanced hills and the ridge we were upon, was a large valley, through which ran a serpentine river. On the banks of this were several plantations, and some villages, whose inhabitants we had met on the road, and found more on the top of the hill gazing at the ship, as might be supposed. The plain or flat land, which lies along the shore we were upon, appeared from the hills to a great advantage; the winding streams which ran through it, the plantations, the little straggling villages, the variety in the woods, and the shoals on the coast, so variegating the scene, that the whole might afford a picture for romance. Indeed, if it were not for those fertile spots on the plains, and some few on the sides of the mountains, the whole country might be called a dreary waste. The mountains and other high places are, for the most part, incapable of cultivation, consisting chiefly of rocks, many of which are full of mundicks. The little soil that is upon them is scorched and burnt up with the sun; it is, nevertheless, coated with coarse grass and other plants, and here and there trees and shrubs. The country in general bore great resemblance to some parts of New Holland under the same parallel of latitude, several of its natural productions seeming to be the same, and the woods being without underwood, as in that country. The reefs on the coast, and several other similarities, were obvious to every one who had seen both countries. We observed all the N. E. coast to be covered with shoals and breakers, extending to the northward, beyond the isle of Balabea, till they were lost in the horizon.—Having made these observations, and our guides not choosing to go farther, we descended the mountains by a road different from that by which we ascended. This brought us down through some of their plantations in the plains, which, I observed, were laid out with great judgment, and cultivated with much labour. Some of them were lying in fallow; some seemingly lately laid down, and others of longer date, pieces of which they were again beginning to dig up. The first thing I observed they did, was to set fire to the grass, &c. which had over-run the surface. Recruiting the land by letting it lie some years untouched, is observed by all the nations in the sea; but they seem to have no notion of manuring it, at least I have no where seen it done. Our excursion was finished by noon, when we returned on board to dinner; and one of our guides having left us, we brought the other with us, whose fidelity was rewarded at a small expence.

In the afternoon I made a little excursion along shore to the westward, in company with Mr. Wales. Besides making observations on such things as we met, we got the names of several places, which I then thought were islands; but upon farther enquiry, I found they were districts upon this same land. This afternoon, a fish being struck by one of the natives near the watering-place, my clerk purchased it, and sent it to me after my return on board. It was of a new species, something like a sun-fish, with a large, long, ugly head. Having no suspicion of its being of a poisonous nature, we ordered it to be dressed for supper; but very luckily, the operation of drawing and describing took up so much time, that it was too late, so that only the liver and row were dressed, of which the two Mr. Forsters and myself did but taste. About three o’clock in the morning, we found ourselves seized with an extraordinary weakness and numbness all over our limbs. I had almost lost the sense of feeling, nor could I distinguish between light and heavy bodies, of such as I had strength to move; a quart pot full of water and a feather being the same in my hand. We each of us took an emetic, and after that a sweat, which gave us much relief. In the morning, one of the pigs which had eaten the entrails was found dead. When the natives came on board and saw the fish hang up, they immediately gave us to understand it was not wholesome food, and expressed the utmost abhorrence of it; though no one was observed to do this when the fish was to be sold, or even after it was purchased.

On the 8th, the guard and a party of men were on shore as usual. In the afternoon I received a message from the officer, acquainting me that Teabooma, the chief, was come with a present, consisting of a few yams and sugar-canes. In return I sent him, amongst other articles, a dog and a bitch, both young, but nearly full grown. The dog was red and white, but the bitch was all red, or the colour of an English fox. I mention this, because they may prove the Adam and Eve of their species in that country. When the officer returned on board in the evening, he informed me that the chief came attended by about twenty men, so that it looked like a visit of ceremony. It was some time before he would believe the dog and bitch were intended for him; but as soon as he was convinced, he seemed lost in an excess of joy, and sent them away immediately.

Next morning early I dispatched Lieutenant Pickersgill and Mr. Gilbert, with the launch and cutter, to explore the coast to the west; judging this would be better effected in the boats than in the ship, as the reefs would force the latter several leagues from land. After breakfast, a party of men was sent ashore to make brooms; but myself and the two Mr. Forsters were confined on board, though much better, a good sweat having had a happy effect. In the afternoon, a man was seen, both ashore and alongside the ship, said to be as white as any European. From the account I had of him (for I did not see him) his whiteness did not proceed from hereditary descent, but from chance or some disease; and such have been seen at Otaheite, and the Society Isles.[11] A fresh easterly wind, and the ship lying a mile from the shore, did not hinder these good-natured people from swimming off to us in shoals of twenty or thirty, and returning the same way.

On the 10th, a party was on shore as usual; and Mr. Forster so well recovered as to go out botanizing.

In the evening of the 11th the boats returned, when I was informed of the following circumstances. From an elevation, which they reached the morning they set out, they had a view of the coast. Mr. Gilbert was of opinion, that they saw the termination of it to the west, but Mr. Pickersgill thought not; though both agreed that there was no passage for the ship that way. From this place, accompanied by two of the natives, they went to Balabea, which they did not reach till after sun-set, and left again next morning before sun-rise; consequently this was a fruitless expedition, and the two following days were spent in getting up to the ship. As they went down to the isle, they saw abundance of turtle but the violence of the wind and sea made it impossible to strike any. The cutter was near being lost, by suddenly filling with water, which obliged them to throw several things overboard, before they could free her and stop the leak she had sprung. From a fishing canoe, which they met coming in from the reefs, they got as much fish as they could eat; and they were received by Teabi, the chief of the isle of Balabea, and the people, who came in numbers to see them, with great courtesy. In order not to be too much crowded, our people drew a line on the ground, and gave the others to understand they were not to come within it. This restriction they observed, and one of them, soon after, turned it to his own advantage. For happening to have a few cocoa-nuts, which one of our people wanted to buy, and he was unwilling to part with, he walked off, and was followed by the man who wanted them. On seeing this he sat down on the sand, made a circle round him, as he had seen our people do, and signified that the other was not to come within it; which was accordingly observed. As this story was well attested, I thought it not unworthy of a place in this journal.

Early in the morning of the 12th, I ordered the carpenter to work, to repair the cutter, and the water to be replaced which we had expended the three preceding days. As Teabooma, the chief, had not been seen since he got the dogs, and I wanted to lay a foundation for stocking the country with hogs also, I took a young boar and sow with me in the boat, and went up the mangrove creek to look for my friend, in order to give them to him. But when we arrived there, we were told that he lived at some distance, and that they would send for him. Whether they did or no, I cannot say; but he not coming, I resolved to give them to the first man of note I met with. The guide we had to the hills happening to be there, I made him understand, that I intended to leave the two pigs on shore, and ordered them out of the boat for that purpose. I offered them to a grave old man, thinking he was a proper person to intrust them with; but he shook his head, and he, and all present, made signs to take them into the boat again. When they saw I did not comply, they seemed to consult with one another what was to be done; and then our guide told me to carry them to the _Alekee_ (chief). Accordingly I ordered them to be taken up, and we were conducted by him to a house wherein were seated, in a circle, eight or ten middle-aged persons. To them I and my pigs being introduced, with great courtesy they desired me to sit down; and then I began to expatiate on the merits of the two pigs, explaining to them how many young ones the female would have at one time, and how soon these would multiply to some hundreds. My only motive was to enhance their value, that they might take the more care of them; and I had reason to think I, in some measure, succeeded. In the mean time, two men having left the company, soon returned with six yams, which were presented to me; and then I took leave and went on board.

I have already observed, that here was a little village; I now found it much larger than I expected; and, about it, a good deal of cultivated land, regularly laid out, planted and planting with taro or eddy root, yams, sugar-canes, and plantains. The taro plantations were prettily watered by little rills, continually supplied from the main channel at the foot of the mountains, from whence these streams were conducted in artful meanders. They have two methods of planting these roots, some are in square or oblong patches, which lie perfectly horizontal, and sink below the common level of the adjacent land; so that they can let in on them as much water as they think necessary. I have generally seen them covered two or three inches deep; but I do not know that this is always necessary. Others are planted in ridges about three or four feet broad, and two, or two and a half high. On the middle or top of the ridge is a narrow gutter, in and along which is conveyed, as above described, a little rill that waters the roots planted in the ridge, on each side of it; and these plantations are so judiciously laid out, that the same stream waters several ridges. These ridges are sometimes the divisions to the horizontal plantations; and when this method is used, which is for the most part observed where a pathway or something of that sort is requisite, not an inch of ground is lost. Perhaps there may be some difference in the roots, which may make these two methods of raising them necessary. Some are better tasted than others, and they are not all of a colour. But be this as it may, they are a very wholesome food, and the tops make good greens, and are eaten as such by the natives. On these plantations, men, women, and children were employed.

In the afternoon I went on shore, and, on a large tree, which stood close to the shore, near the watering place, had an inscription cut, setting forth the ship’s name, date, &c. as a testimony of our being the first discoverers of this country, as I had done at all others at which we had touched, where this ceremony was necessary. This being done, we took leave of our friends, and returned on board; when I ordered all the boats to be hoisted in, in order to be ready to put to sea in the morning.

CHAP. IX.

A DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS INHABITANTS; THEIR MANNERS,
CUSTOMS, AND ARTS.

I shall conclude our transactions at this place with some account of the country and its inhabitants. They are strong, robust, active, well-made people, courteous and friendly, and not in the least addicted to pilfering, which is more than can be said of any other nation in this sea. They are nearly of the same colour as the natives of Tanna, but have better features, more agreeable countenances, and are a much stouter race; a few being seen who measured six feet four inches. I observed some who had thick lips, flat noses, and full cheeks, and, in some degree, the features and look of a negro. Two things contributed to the forming of such an idea; first, their ruff mop heads; and secondly, their besmearing their faces with black pigment. Their hair and beards are, in general, black. The former is very much frizzled; so that, at first sight, it appears like that of a negro. It is, nevertheless, very different; though both coarser and stronger than ours. Some, who wear it long, tie it up on the crown of the head; others suffer only a large lock to grow on each side, which they tie up in clubs; many others, as well as all the women, wear it cropped short. These rough heads, most probably, want frequent scratching, for which purpose they have a most excellent instrument. This is a kind of comb made of sticks of hard wood, from seven to nine inches long, and about the thickness of knitting needles. A number of these, seldom exceeding twenty, but generally fewer, are fastened together at one end, parallel to, and near 1/10th of an inch from each other. The other ends, which are a little pointed, will spread out or open like the sticks of a fan, by which means they can beat up the quarters of an hundred lice at a time. These combs or scratchers, for I believe they serve both purposes, they always wear in their hair, on one side their head. The people of Tanna have an instrument of this kind, for the same use; but theirs is forked, I think never exceeding three or four prongs; and sometimes only a small pointed stick. Their beards, which are of the same crisp nature as their hair, are, for the most part, worn short. Swelled and ulcerated legs and feet are common among the men; as also a swelling of the scrotum. I know not whether this is occasioned by disease, or by the mode of applying the wrapper before mentioned, and which they use as at Tanna and Mallicollo. This is their only covering, and is made generally of the bark of a tree, but sometimes of leaves. The small pieces of cloth, paper, &c. which they got from us, were commonly applied to this use. We saw coarse garments amongst them, made of a sort of matting, but they seemed never to wear them, except when out in their canoes and unemployed. Some had a kind of concave, cylindrical, stiff black cap, which appeared to be a great ornament among them, and, we thought, was only worn by men of note, or warriors. A large sheet of strong paper, when they got one from us, was generally applied to this use.

The women’s dress is a short petticoat, made of the filaments of the plantain tree, laid over a cord, to which they are fastened, and tied round the waist. The petticoat is made at least six or eight inches thick, but not one inch longer than necessary for the use designed. The outer filaments are dyed black; and, as an additional ornament, the most of them have a few pearl oyster-shells fixed on the right side. The general ornaments of both sexes, are ear-rings of tortoise-shell, necklaces or amulets, made both of shells and stones, and bracelets, made of large shells, which they wear above the elbow. They have punctures, or marks on the skin, on several parts of the body; but none, I think, are black, as at the eastern islands. I know not if they have any other design than ornament; and the people of Tanna are marked much in the same manner.

Were I to judge of the origin of this nation, I should take them to be a race between the people of Tanna and of the Friendly Isles; or between those of Tanna and the New Zealanders, or all three; their language, in some respects, being a mixture of them all. In their disposition they are like the natives of the Friendly Isles, but in affability and honesty they excel them.

Notwithstanding their pacific inclination, they must sometimes have wars, as they are well provided with offensive weapons; such as clubs, spears, darts, and slings for throwing stones. The clubs are about two feet and a half long, and variously formed; some like a scythe, others like a pick-axe; some have a head like an hawk, and others have round heads; but all are neatly made. Many of their darts and spears are no less neat, and ornamented with carvings. The slings are as simple as possible; but they take some pains to form the stones that they use into a proper shape; which is something like an egg, supposing both ends to be like the small one. They use a becket, in the same manner as at Tanna, in throwing the dart, which, I believe, is much used in striking fish, &c. In this they seem very dexterous; nor, indeed, do I know that they have any other method of catching large fish; for I neither saw hooks nor lines among them.

It is needless to mention their working tools, as they are made of the same materials, and nearly in the same manner, as at the other islands. Their axes, indeed, are a little different; some, at least; which may be owing to fancy as much as custom.

Their houses, or at least most of them, are circular; something like a bee-hive, and full as close and warm. The entrance is by a small door, or long square hole, just big enough to admit a man bent double. The side walls are about four feet and a half high; but the roof is lofty, and peaked to a point at the top, above which is a post or stick of wood, which is generally ornamented either with carving or shells, or both. The framing is of small spars, reeds, &c. and both sides and roof are thick and close covered with thatch, made of coarse long grass. In the inside of the house are set up posts, to which cross spars are fastened and platforms made for the conveniency of laying any thing on. Some houses have two floors, one above the other. The floor is laid with dry grass, and here and there mats are spread for the principal people to sleep or sit on. In most of them we found two fire-places, and commonly a fire burning, and, as there was no vent for the smoke but by the door, the whole house was both smoky and hot, insomuch that we, who are not used to such an atmosphere, could hardly endure it a moment. This may be the reason why we found these people so chilly when in the open air and without exercise. We frequently saw them make little fires any where, and hustle round them, with no other view than to warm themselves. Smoke within doors may be a necessary evil, as it prevents the musquitoes from coming in, which are pretty numerous here. In some respects their habitations are neat; for, besides the ornaments at top, I saw some with carved door-posts. Upon the whole, their houses are better calculated for a cold than a hot climate; and as there are no partitions in them, they can have little privacy.

They have no great variety of household utensils; the earthen jars before mentioned being the only article worth notice. Each family has, at least, one of them, in which they bake their roots, and perhaps their fish, &c. The fire by which they cook their victuals, is on the outside of each house, in the open air. There are three or five pointed stones fixed in the ground, their pointed ends being about six inches above the surface, in this form: Those of three stones, are only for one jar, those of five stones, for two. The jars do not stand on their bottoms, but lie inclined on their sides. The use of these stones is, obviously, to keep the jars from resting on the fire, in order that it may burn the better.

They subsist chiefly on roots and fish, and the bark of a tree, which I am told grows also in the West Indies. This they roast, and are almost continually chewing. It has a sweetish, insipid taste; and was liked by some of our people. Water is their only liquor; at least, I never saw any other made use of.

Plantains and sugar-canes are by no means in plenty. Bread-fruit is very scarce, and the cocoa-nut trees are small and but thinly planted; and neither one nor the other seems to yield much fruit.

To judge merely by the numbers of the natives we saw every day, one might think the island very populous; but, I believe, that at this time, the inhabitants were collected from all parts on our account. Mr. Pickersgill observed, that down the coast, to the west, there were but few people; and we knew they came daily from the other side of the land, over the mountains, to visit us. But although the inhabitants, upon the whole, may not be numerous, the island is not thinly peopled on the sea-coast, and in the plains and valleys that are capable of cultivation. It seems to be a country unable to support many inhabitants. Nature has been less bountiful to it than to any other tropical island we know in this sea. The greatest part of its surface, or at least what we saw of it, consists of barren, rocky mountains, and the grass, &c. growing on them, is useless to people who have no cattle.

The sterility of the country will apologize for the natives not contributing to the wants of the navigator. The sea may, perhaps, in some measure, compensate for the deficiency of the land; for a coast surrounded by reefs and shoals as this is, cannot fail of being stored with fish.

I have before observed, that the country bears great resemblance to New South Wales, or New Holland, and that some of its natural productions are the same. In particular, we found here the tree which is covered with a soft white ragged bark, easily peeled off, and is, as I have been told, the same that in the East Indies is used for caulking of ships. The wood is very hard, the leaves are long and narrow, of a pale dead green, and a fine aromatic; so that it may properly be said to belong to that continent. Nevertheless, here are several plants, &c. common to the eastern and northern islands, and even a species of the passion-flower, which, I am told, has never before been known to grow wild any where but in America. Our botanists did not complain for want of employment at this place; every day bringing something new in botany or other branches of natural history. Land-birds, indeed, are not numerous, but several are new. One of these is a kind of crow, at least so we called it, though it is not half so big, and its feathers are tinged with blue. They also have some very beautiful turtle-doves, and other small birds, such as I never saw before.

All our endeavours to get the name of the whole island proved ineffectual. Probably, it is too large for them to know by one name. Whenever we made this enquiry, they always gave us the name of some district or place, which we pointed to; and, as before observed, I got the names of several, with the name of the king or chief of each. Hence, I conclude, that the country is divided into several districts, each governed by a chief; but we know nothing of the extent of his power. Balade was the name of the district we were at, and Tea Booma the chief. He lived on the other side of the ridge of hills, so that we had but little of his company, and therefore could not see much of his power. _Tea_ seems a title prefixed to the names of all or most of their chiefs or great men. My friend honoured me by calling me _Tea_ Cook.

They deposit their dead in the ground. I saw none of their burying-places; but several of the gentlemen did. In one, they were informed, lay the remains of a chief, who was slain in battle; and his grave, which bore some resemblance to a large molehill, was decorated with spears, darts, paddles, &c. all stuck upright in the ground round about it.

The canoes which these people use, are somewhat like those of the Friendly Isles: but the most heavy, clumsy vessels I ever saw. They are what I call double canoes, made out of two large trees hollowed out, having a raised gunnel about two inches high, and closed at each end with a kind of bulk head of the same height; so that the whole is like a long square trough, about three feet shorter than the body of the canoe; that is, a foot and an half at each end. Two canoes, thus fitted, are secured to each other, about three feet asunder, by means of cross spars, which project about a foot over each side. Over these spars is laid a deck or very heavy platform, made of plank and small round spars, on which they have a fire hearth, and generally a fire burning; and they carry a pot or jar to dress their victuals in. The space between the two canoes is laid with plank, and the rest with spars. On one side of the deck, and close to the edge, is fixed a row of knees, pretty near to each other, the use of which is to keep the mast, yards, &c. from rolling over-board. They are navigated by one or two latteen sails, extended to a small latteen yard, the end of which fixes in a notch or hole in the deck. The foot of the sail is extended to a small boom. The sail is composed of pieces of matting, the ropes are made of the coarse filaments of the plantain tree, twisted into cords of the thickness of a finger; and three or four more such cords, marled together, serve them for shrouds, &c. I thought they sailed very well; but they are not at all calculated for rowing or paddling. Their method of proceeding, when they cannot sail, is by sculling; and for this purpose there are holes in the boarded deck or platform. Through these they put the sculls, which are of such a length, that, when the blade is in the water, the loom or handle is four or five feet above the deck. The man who works it stands behind, and with both his hands sculls the vessel forward. This method of proceeding is very slow, and for this reason, the canoes are but ill calculated for fishing, especially for striking of turtle, which, I think, can hardly ever be done in them. Their fishing implements, such as I have seen, are turtle nets, made, I believe, of the filaments of the plantain tree, twisted; and small hand nets, with very minute meshes made of fine twine and fish gigs. Their general method of fishing, I guess, is to lie on the reefs in shoal water, and to strike the fish that may come in their way. They may, however, have other methods, which we had no opportunity to see, as no boat went out while we were here, all their time and attention being taken up with us. Their canoes are about thirty feet long, and the deck or platform about twenty-four in length and ten in breadth. We had not, at this time, seen any timber in the country so large as that of which their canoes were made. It was observed, that the holes made in the several parts, in order to sew them together, were burnt through, but with what instrument we never learnt; most probably it was of stone; which may be the reason why they were so fond of large spikes, seeing at once they would answer this purpose. I was convinced they were not wholly designed for edge tools; because every one showed a desire for the iron belaying pins which were fixed in the quarter deck rail, and seemed to value them far more than a spike-nail, although it might be twice as big. These pins, which are round, perhaps have the very shape of the tool they wanted to make of the nails. I did not find that a hatchet was quite so valuable as a large spike. Small nails were of little or no value; and beads, looking-glasses, &c. they did not admire.

The women of this country, and likewise those of Tanna, are, so far as I could judge, far more chaste than those of the more eastern islands. I never heard that one of our people obtained the least favour from any one of them. I have been told, that the ladies here would frequently divert themselves, by going a little aside with our gentlemen, as if they meant to be kind to them, and then would run away laughing at them. Whether this was chastity or coquetry, I shall not pretend to determine; nor is it material, since the consequences were the same.

CHAP. X.

PROCEEDINGS ON THE COAST OF NEW CALEDONIA, WITH GEOGRAPHICAL AND
NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS.

Every thing being in readiness to put to sea, at sunrise, on the 13th of September, we weighed, and with a fine gale at E. by S., stood out for the same channel we came in by. At half past seven we were in the middle of it. Observatory Isle bore S. 5° E., distant four miles, and the Isle of Balabea W. N. W. As soon as we were clear of the reef, we hauled the wind on the starboard tack, with a view of plying in to the S. E.; but as Mr. Gilbert was of opinion that he had seen the end or N. W. extremity of the land, and that it would be easier to get round by the N. W., I gave over plying, and bore up along the outside of the reef, steering N. N. W., N. W., and N. W. by W. as it trended. At noon the island of Balabea bore S. by W., distant thirteen miles; and what we judged to be the west end of the great land, bore S. W. 1/2 S., and the direction of the reef was N. W. by W., latitude observed 19° 53ʹ 20ʺ. Longitude from Observatory Isle 14ʹ W. We continued to steer N. W. by W. along the outside of the reef till three o’clock, at which time the Isle of Balabea bore S. by E. 1/2 E. In this direction we observed a partition in the reef, which we judged to be a channel, by the strong tide which set out of it. From this place the reef inclined to the north, for three or four leagues, and then to N. W. We followed its direction, and as we advanced to N. W., raised more land, which seemed to be connected with what we had seen before; so that Mr. Gilbert was mistaken, and did not see the extremity of the coast. At five o’clock this land bore W. by N. 1/2 N., distant twenty miles; but what we could see of the reef trended in the direction of N. W. by N.

Having hauled the wind on the starboard tack, and spent the night plying, on the 14th, at sunrise, the Island of Balabea bore S. 6° East, and the land seen the preceding night west, but the reef still trended N. W., along which we steered, with a light breeze at E. S. E. At noon we observed in latitude 19° 28ʹ, longitude from Observatory Isle 27ʹ West. We had now no sight of Balabea; and the other land, that is, the N. W. part of it, bore W. by S. 1/2 S.; but we were not sure if this was one continued coast, or separate islands. For though some partitions were seen, from space to space, which made it look like the latter, a multitude of shoals rendered a nearer approach to it exceedingly dangerous, if not impracticable. In the afternoon, with a fine breeze at E. S. E., we ranged the outside of these shoals, which we found to trend in the direction of N. W. by W., N. W. by N., and N. N. E. At three o’clock we passed a low sandy isle, lying on the outer edge of the reef; in latitude 19° 25ʹ, and in the direction of N. E. from the north-westernmost land, six or seven leagues distant. So much as we could see of this space was strewed with shoals, seemingly detached from each other; and the channel leading in amongst them, appeared to be on the S. E. side of the sandy isle; at least there was a space where the sea did not break. At sunset, we could but just see the land, which bore S. W. by S., about ten leagues distant. A clear horizon produced the discovery of no land to the westward of this direction; the reef too, trended away W. by N. 1/2 N., and seemed to terminate in a point which was seen from the mast head. Thus every thing conspired to make us believe that we should soon get round these shoals; and with these flattering expectations we hauled the wind, which was at E. N. E., and spent the night making short boards.

Next morning, at sunrise, seeing neither land nor breakers, we bore away N. W. by W., and two hours after saw the reef extending N. W. farther than the eye could reach; but no land was to be seen. It was therefore probable, that we had passed its N. W. extremity; and, as we had seen from the hills of Balade its extent to the S. W., it was necessary to know how far it extended to the E. or S. E. while it was in our power to recover the coast. For, by following the direction of the shoals, we might have been carried so far to leeward as not to be able to beat back without considerable loss of time. We were already far out of sight of land; and there was no knowing how much farther we might be carried, before we found an end to them. These considerations, together with the risk we must run in exploring a sea strewed with shoals, and where no anchorage, without them, is to be found, induced me to abandon the design of proceeding round by the N. W., and to ply up to the S. E., in which direction I knew there was a clear sea. With this view, we tacked and stood to the S. E., with the wind at N. E. by E., a gentle breeze. At this time we were in the latitude of 19° 7ʹ S., longitude 165° 57ʹ East.

In standing to S. E. we did but just weather the point of the reef we had passed the preceding evening. To make our situation the more dangerous, the wind began to fail us; and at three in the afternoon it fell calm, and left us to the mercy of a great swell, setting directly on the reef, which was hardly a league from us. We sounded, but found no bottom, with a line of 200 fathoms. I ordered the pinnace and cutter to be hoisted out to tow the ship; but they were of little use against so great a swell. We, however, found that the ship did not draw near the reef so fast as might be expected; and at seven o’clock, a light air at N. N. E. kept her head to the sea, but it lasted no longer than midnight, when it was succeeded by a dead calm.

At day-break, on the 16th, we had no sight of the reef; and at eleven, a breeze springing up at S. S. W. we hoisted in the boats, and made sail to S. E. At noon we observed in 19° 35ʹ South, which was considerably more to the south than we expected, and showed that a current or tide had been in our favour all night, and accounted for our getting so unexpectedly clear of the shoals. At two o’clock P. M. we had again a calm, which lasted till nine, when it was succeeded by a light air from E. N. E. and E., with which we advanced but slowly.

On the 17th, at noon, we observed in latitude 19° 54ʹ, when the Isle of Balabea bore S. 60° West, ten and a half leagues distant. We continued to ply, with variable light winds, between N. E. and S. E. without meeting with any thing remarkable till the 20th at noon, when Cape Colnet bore N. 78° West, distant six leagues. From this cape the land extended round by the south to E. S. E. till it was lost in the horizon; and the country appeared with many hills and vallies. Latitude observed 20° 41ʹ, longitude made from Observatory Isle 1° 8ʹ East. We stood in shore with a light breeze at east till sunset, when we were between two and three leagues off. The coast extended from S. 42° 1/2 East to N. 59° West. Two small islets lay without this last direction, distant from us four or five miles; some others lay between us and the shore, and to the east, where they seemed to be connected by reefs, in which appeared some openings from space to space. The country was mountainous, and had much the same aspect as about Balade. On one of the western small isles was an elevation like a tower; and, over a low neck of land within the isle, were seen many other elevations resembling the masts of a fleet of ships.

Next day, at sunrise, after having stood off all night with a light breeze at S. E., we found ourselves about six leagues from the coast; and in this situation we were kept by a calm till ten in the evening, when we got a faint land breeze at S. W., with which we steered S. E. all night.

On the 22d, at sunrise, the land was clouded, but it was not long before the clouds went off, and we found, by our land-marks, that we had made a good advance. At ten o’clock, the land-breeze being succeeded by a sea-breeze at E. by S., this enabled us to stand in for the land, which at noon extended from N. 78° West, to S. 31-1/2° East, round by the south. In this last direction the coast seemed to trend more to the south in a lofty promontory, which, on account of the day, received the name of Cape Coronation. Latitude 22° 2ʹ, longitude 167° 7-1/2ʹ East. Some breakers lay between us and the shore, and probably they were connected with those we had seen before.

During the night we had advanced about two leagues to S. E., and at day-break, on the 23d, an elevated point appeared in sight beyond Cape Coronation, bearing S. 23° East. It proved to be the S. E. extremity of the coast, and obtained the name of Queen Charlotte’s Foreland. Latitude 22° 16ʹ S., longitude 167° 14ʹ East. About noon, having got a breeze from the N. E., we stood to S. S. E., and, as we drew towards Cape Coronation, saw in a valley to the south of it, a vast number of those elevated objects before-mentioned; and some low land under the Foreland was wholly covered with them. We could not agree in our opinions of what they were. I supposed them to be a singular sort of trees, being too numerous to resemble any thing else; and a great deal of smoke kept rising all the day from amongst those near the Cape. Our philosophers were of opinion that this was the smoke of some internal and perpetual fire. My representing to them that there was no smoke here in the morning, would have been of no avail, had not this eternal fire gone out before night, and no more smoke been seen after. They were still more positive, that the elevations were pillars of basaltes, like those which compose the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. At sunset, the wind veering round to the south, we tacked and stood off, it not being safe to approach the shore in the dark. At day-break we stood in again, with a faint land-breeze between E. S. E. and S. S. E. At noon observed in latitude 21° 59ʹ 30ʺ, Cape Coronation bearing west southerly, distant seven leagues, and the Foreland S. 38° West. As we advanced to S. S. W. the coast beyond the Foreland began to appear in sight; and, at sunset, we discovered a low island lying S. S. E., about seven miles from the Foreland. It was one of those which are generally surrounded with shoals and breakers. At the same time a round hill was seen bearing S. 24° East, twelve leagues distant. During night, having had variable light winds, we advanced but little either way.

On the 25th, about ten o’clock A. M., having got a fair breeze at E. S. E., we stood to S. S. W., in hopes of getting round the Foreland; but, as we drew near, we perceived more low isles beyond the one already mentioned, which at last appeared to be connected by breakers, extending towards the Foreland, and seeming to join the shore. We stood on till half-past three o’clock, when we saw, from the deck, rocks just peeping above the surface of the sea, on the shoal above mentioned. It was now time to alter the course, as the day was too far spent to look for a passage near the shore, and we could find no bottom to anchor in during the night. We therefore stood to the south, to look for a passage without the small isles. We had a fine breeze at E. S. E., but it lasted no longer than five o’clock, when it fell to a dead calm. Having sounded, a line of 170 fathoms did not reach the bottom, though we were but a little way from the shoals, which, instead of following the coast to S. W., took a S. E. direction towards the hill we had seen the preceding evening, and seemed to point out to us that it was necessary to go round that land. At this time the most advanced point on the main bore S. 68° West, distant nine or ten leagues. About seven o’clock we got a light breeze at north, which enabled us to steer out E. S. E., and to spend the night with less anxiety. On some of the low isles were many of those elevations already mentioned. Every one was now satisfied they were trees, except our philosophers; who still maintained that they were basaltes.

About day break, on the 26th, the wind having shifted to S. S. W., we stretched to S. E. for the hill before mentioned. It belonged to an island, which at noon extended from S. 16° E. to S. 7° West, distant six leagues. Latitude observed 22° 16ʹ South. In the P. M. the wind freshened, and, veering to S. S. E., we stretched to the east, till two A. M. on the 27th, when we tacked and stood to S. W. with hopes of weathering the island; but we fell about two miles short of our expectations, and had to tack about a mile from the east side of the island, the extremes bearing from N. W. by N. to S. W. the hill west, and some low isles, lying off the S. E. point, S. by W. These seemed to be connected with the large island by breakers. We sounded when in stays, but had no ground with a line of eighty fathoms. The skirts of this island were covered with the elevations more than once mentioned. They had much the appearance of tall pines, which occasioned my giving that name to the island. The round hill, which is on the S. W. side, is of such a height as to be seen fourteen or sixteen leagues. The island is about a mile in circuit, and situated in latitude 22° 38ʹ S., longitude 167° 40ʹ East. Having made two attempts to weather the Isle of Pines before sunset, with no better success than before, this determined me to stretch off till midnight. This day at noon the thermometer was at 68° 3/4, which is lower than it had been since the 27th of February.

Having tacked at midnight, assisted by the currents, and a fresh gale at E. S. E. and S. E., next morning, at daybreak, we found ourselves several leagues to windward of the Isle of Pines, and bore away large, round the S. E., and south sides. The coast from the S. E., round by the south to the west, was strewed with sand-banks, breakers, and small low isles, most of which were covered with the same lofty trees that ornamented the borders of the greater one. We continued to range the outside of these small isles and breakers, at three-fourths of a league distance, and as we passed, one raised another; so that they seemed to form a chain extending to the isles which lie off the Foreland. At noon we observed, in latitude 22° 44ʹ 36ʺ South, the Isle of Pines, extending from N. by E. 1/2 E. to E. by N., and Cape Coronation N. 32° 30ʹ West, distant seventeen leagues. In the afternoon, with a fine gale at E., we steered N. W. by W. along the outside of the shoals, with a view of falling in with the land a little to S. W. of the Foreland. At two o’clock P. M. two low islets were seen bearing W. by S., and as they were connected by breakers, which seemed to join those on our starboard, this discovery made it necessary to haul off S. W. in order to get clear of them all. At three, more breakers appeared, extending from the low isles towards the S. E. We now hauled out close to the wind; and, in an hour and an half, were almost on board the breakers, and obliged to tack. From the mast-head, they were seen to extend as far as E. S. E., and the smoothness of the sea made it probable that they extended to the north of east, and that we were in a manner surrounded by them. At this time the hill on the Isle of Pines bore N. 71-1/2° East, the Foreland N. 1/4 W., and the most advanced point of land on the S. W. coast bore N. W., distant fifteen or sixteen leagues. This direction of the S. W. coast, which was rather within the parallel of the N. E., assured us that this land extended no farther to the S. W. After making a short trip to N. N. E., we stood again to the south, in expectation of having a better view of the shoals before sunset. We gained nothing by this but the prospect of a sea strewed with shoals, which we could not clear but by returning in the track by which we came. We tacked nearly in the same place where we had tacked before, and on sounding found a bottom of fine sand. But anchoring in a strong gale, with a chain of breakers to leeward, being the last resource, I rather chose to spend the night in making short boards over that space we had, in some measure, made ourselves acquainted with in the day. And thus it was spent; but under the terrible apprehension, every moment, of falling on some of the many dangers which surrounded us.

Daylight showed that our fears were not ill-founded, and that we had been in the most imminent danger; having had breakers continually under our lee, and at a very little distance from us. We owed our safety to the interposition of Providence, a good look-out, and the very brisk manner in which the ship was managed; for, as we were standing to the north, the people on the lee gangway and forecastle saw breakers under the lee-bow, which we escaped by quickly tacking the ship.