Chapter IX: Book IV (1)

FROM LEAVING NEW ZEALAND TO OUR RETURN TO ENGLAND.

CHAP. I.

THE RUN FROM NEW ZEALAND TO TERRA DEL FUEGO, WITH THE RANGE FROM CAPE DESEADA TO CHRISTMAS SOUND, AND DESCRIPTION OF THAT PART OF THE COAST.

At daybreak on the 10th, with a fine breeze at W. N. W., we weighed and stood out of the Sound; and, after getting round the Two Brothers, steered for Cape Campbell, which is at the S. W. entrance of the Strait, all sails set, with a fine breeze at north. At four in the afternoon, we passed the Cape, at the distance of four or five leagues, and then steered S. S. E. 1/2 E. with the wind at N. W. a gentle gale, and cloudy weather.

Next morning, the wind veered round by the west to south, and forced us more to the east than I intended. At seven o’clock in the evening, the snowy mountains bore W. by S., and Cape Palliser N. 1/2 W. distant sixteen or seventeen leagues; from which Cape I for the third time took my departure. After a few hours’ calm, a breeze springing up at north, we steered S. by E. all sails set, with a view of getting into the latitude of 54° or 55°; my intention being to cross this vast ocean nearly in these parallels, and so as to pass over those parts which were left unexplored the preceding summer.

In the morning of the 12th, the wind increased to a fine gale: at noon we observed in latitude 43° 13ʹ 30ʺ S., longitude 176° 41ʹ E., an extraordinary fish of the whale kind was seen, which some called a sea-monster. I did not see it myself. In the afternoon, our old companions the pintado peterels began to appear.

On the 13th, in the morning, the wind veered to W. S. W. At seven, seeing the appearance of land to the S. W. we hauled up towards it, and soon found it to be a fog-bank. Afterwards we steered S. E. by S. and soon after saw a seal. At noon, latitude, by account, 44° 25ʹ, longitude 177° 31ʹ E. Foggy weather, which continued all the afternoon. At six in the evening, the wind veered to N. E. by N. and increased to a fresh gale, attended with thick hazy weather; course steered E. E. 1/4 S.

On the 14th, A. M., saw another seal. At noon, latitude 45° 54ʹ, longitude 179° 29ʹ E.

On the 15th, A. M., the wind veered to the westward; the fog cleared away, but the weather continued cloudy. At noon, latitude 47° 30ʹ, longitude 178° 19ʹ W.; for, having passed the meridian of 180° E., I now reckon my longitude west of the first meridian, viz. Greenwich. In the evening heard penguins, and the next morning saw some sea or rock weed. At noon a fresh gale from the west and fine weather. Latitude observed 49° 33ʹ, longitude 175° 31ʹ W.

Next morning fresh gales and hazy weather; saw a seal and several pieces of weed. At noon, latitude 51° 12ʹ, longitude 173° 17ʹ W. The wind veered to the north and N. E. by N., blew a strong gale by squalls, which split an old topgallant sail, and obliged us to double-reef the topsails; but in the evening the wind moderated, and veered to W. N. W. when we loosed a reef out of each topsail, and found the variation of the compass to be 9° 52ʹ E., being then in the latitude 51° 47ʹ, longitude 172° 21ʹ W.; and the next morning, the 18th, in the latitude of 52° 25ʹ, longitude 170° 45ʹ W., it was 10° 26ʹ E. Towards noon, had moderate but cloudy weather, and a great swell from the west: some penguins and pieces of sea-weed seen.

On the 19th, steered E. S. E. with a very fresh gale at N., hazy, dirty weather. At noon, latitude 53° 43ʹ, longitude 166° 15ʹ W.

On the 20th, steered E. by S. with a moderate breeze at N. attended with thick hazy weather. At noon, latitude 54° 8ʹ, longitude 162° 18ʹ W.

On the 21st, winds mostly from the N. E. a fresh gale attended with thick, hazy, dirty weather. Course S. E. by S., latitude, at noon, 55° 31ʹ, longitude 160° 29ʹ W.; abundance of blue peterels and some penguins seen.

Fresh gales at N. W. by N. and N. by W., and hazy till towards noon of the 22d, when the weather cleared up, and we observed in latitude 55° 48ʹ S., longitude 156° 56ʹ W. In the afternoon had a few hours’ calm; after that, the wind came at S. S. E. and S. E. by S. a light breeze, with which we steered east northerly. In the night the aurora australis was visible, but very faint, and no ways remarkable.

On the 23d, in the latitude of 55° 46ʹ S., longitude 156° 13ʹ W., the variation was 9° 42ʹ E. We had a calm from ten in the morning till six in the evening, when a breeze sprung up at west; at first it blew a gentle gale, but afterwards freshened. Our course was now E. 1/2 N.

On the 24th, a fresh breeze at N. W. by W. and N. by W. At noon, in latitude 55° 38ʹ S., longitude 153° 37ʹ W., foggy in the night, but next day had a fine gale at N. W. attended with clear pleasant weather; course steered E. by N. In the evening, being in the latitude of 55° 8ʹ S., longitude 148° 10ʹ W. the variation, by the mean of two compasses, was 6° 35ʹ 1/2 E.

Having a steady fresh gale at N. N. W. on the 26th and 27th, we steered east, and at noon, on the latter, were in latitude 55° 6ʹ S., longitude 138° 56ʹ W.

I now gave up all hopes of finding any more land in this ocean, and came to a resolution to steer directly for the west entrance of the Straits of Magalhaens, with a view of coasting the out or south side of Terra del Fuego, round Cape Horn, to the Strait le Maire. As the world has but a very imperfect knowledge of this shore, I thought the coasting of it would be of more advantage, both to navigation and to geography, than any thing I could expect to find in a higher latitude. In the afternoon of this day, the wind blew in squalls, and carried away the main topgallant mast.

A very strong gale northerly, with hazy rainy weather, on the 28th, obliged us to double-reef the fore and main topsail, to hand the mizen topsail, and get down the fore top-gallant yard. In the morning, the bolt rope of the main topsail broke, and occasioned the sail to be spilt. I have observed that the ropes to all our sails, the square sails especially, are not of a size and strength sufficient to wear out the canvass. At noon, latitude 55° 20ʹ S., longitude 134° 16ʹ W., a great swell from N. W. albatrosses and blue peterels seen.

Next day towards noon, the wind abating, we loosed all the reefs out of the topsails, rigged another top-gallant mast, and got the yards across. P. M. little wind, and hazy weather; at midnight calm, that continued till noon the next day, when a breeze sprung up at E. with which we stretched to the northward. At this time we were in the latitude 55° 32ʹ S., longitude 128° 45ʹ W., some albatrosses and peterels seen. At eight P. M. the wind veering to N. E. we tacked and stood to E. S. E.

On the 1st of December, thick hazy weather, with drizzling rain, and a moderate breeze of wind, which at three o’clock P. M. fell to a calm; at this time in latitude 55° 41ʹ S., longitude 127° 5ʹ W. After four hours’ calm, the fog cleared away, and we got a wind at S. E. with which we stood N. E.

Next day, a fresh breeze at S. E. and hazy foggy weather, except a few hours in the morning, when we found the variation to be 1° 28ʹ E., latitude 55° 17ʹ, longitude 125° 41ʹ W. The variation after this was supposed to increase; for on the 4th, in the morning, being in latitude 53° 21ʹ, longitude 121° 31ʹ W., it was 3° 16ʹ E.; in the evening, in latitude 53° 13ʹ, longitude 119° 46ʹ W. it was 3° 28ʹ E.; and on the 5th, at six o’clock in the evening, in latitude 53° 8ʹ, longitude 115° 58ʹ W., it was 4° 1ʹ E.

For more than twenty-four hours having had a fine gale at S., this enabled us to steer E., with very little deviation to the N.; and the wind now altering to S. W. and blowing a steady fresh breeze, we continued to steer E., inclining a little to S.

On the 6th, had some snow showers. In the evening, being in latitude 53° 13ʹ, longitude 111° 12ʹ, the variation was 4° 58ʹ E.; and the next morning, being in latitude 58° 16ʹ, longitude 109° 33ʹ, it was 5° 1ʹ E.

The wind was now at W., a fine pleasant gale, sometimes with showers of rain. Nothing remarkable happened, till the 9th, at noon, when being in the latitude of 53° 37ʹ, longitude 103° 44ʹ W., the wind veered to N. E. and afterwards came insensibly round to the S., by the E. and S. E. attended with cloudy hazy weather, and some showers of rain.

On the 10th, a little before noon, latitude 54°, longitude 102° 7ʹ W., passed a small bed of sea-weed. In the afternoon the wind veered to S. W., blew a fresh gale, attended with dark cloudy weather. We steered E. half a point N.; and the next day, at six in the evening, being in latitude 53° 35ʹ, longitude 95° 52ʹ W., the variation was 9° 58ʹ E. Many and various sorts of albatrosses about the ship.

On the 12th, the wind veered to the W. N. W. and in the evening to N.; and, at last, left us to a calm. That continued till midnight, when we got a breeze at S.; which, soon after, veering to, and fixing at, W. we steered E.; and on the 14th, in the morning, found the variation to be 13° 25ʹ E., latitude 53° 25ʹ, longitude 87° 53ʹ W.; and in the afternoon, being in the same latitude, and the longitude of 86° 2ʹ W. it was 15° 3ʹ E., and increased in such a manner, that on the 15th, in the latitude of 53° 30ʹ, longitude 82° 23ʹ W., it was 17° E.; and the next evening, in the latitude of 53° 25ʹ, longitude 78° 40ʹ, it was 17° 38ʹ E. About this time, we saw a penguin and a piece of weed; and the next morning, a seal and some diving peterels. For the three last days, the wind had been at W., a steady fresh gale, attended, now and then, with showers of rain or hail.

At six in the morning of the 17th, being nearly in the same latitude as above, and in the longitude of 77° 10ʹ W., the variation was 18° 33ʹ E.; and in the afternoon it was 21° 38ʹ, being at that time in latitude 53° 16ʹ S., longitude 75° 9ʹ W. In the morning, as well as in the afternoon, I took some observations to determine the longitude by the watch; and the results, reduced to noon, gave 76° 18ʹ 30ʺ W. At the same time, the longitude, by my reckoning, was 76° 17ʹ W. But I have reason to think, that we were about half a degree more to the west than either the one or the other; our latitude, at the same time, was 53° 21ʹ S.

We steered E. by N. and E. 1/2 N. all this day, under all the sail we could carry, with a fine fresh gale at N. W. by W. in expectation of seeing the land before night; but not making it till ten o’clock, we took in the studding-sails, top-gallant sails, and a reef in each topsail, and steered E. N. E. in order to make sure of falling in with Cape Deseada.

Two hours after, we made the land, extending from N. E. by N. to E. by S. about six leagues distant. On this discovery, we wore and brought to, with the ship’s head to the S., and having sounded, found seventy-five fathoms water, the bottom stone and shells. The land now before us could be no other than the west coast of Terra del Fuego, and near the west entrance to the Straits of Magalhaens.

As this was the first run that had been made directly across this ocean, in a high southern latitude[14], I have been a little particular in noting every circumstance that appeared in the least material; and after all, I must observe that I never made a passage any where of such length, or even much shorter, where so few interesting circumstances occurred. For, if I except the variation of the compass, I know of nothing else worth notice. The weather had been neither unusually stormy nor cold. Before we arrived in the latitude of 50°, the mercury in the thermometer fell gradually from sixty to fifty; and after we arrived in the latitude of 55°, it was generally between forty-seven and forty-five; once or twice it fell to forty-three. These observations were made at noon.

I have now done with the Southern Pacific Ocean; and flatter myself that no one will think that I have left it unexplored; or that more could have been done, in one voyage, towards obtaining that end, than has been done in this.

Soon after we left New Zealand, Mr. Wales contrived, and fixed up an instrument, which very accurately measured the angle the ship rolled, when sailing large and in a great sea; and that in which she lay down, when sailing upon a wind. The greatest angle he observed her to roll was 38°. This was on the 6th of this month, when the sea was not unusually high; so that it cannot be reckoned the greatest roll she had made. The most he observed her to heel or lie down, when sailing upon a wind, was 18°; and this was under double-reefed topsails and courses.

On the 18th, at three in the morning, we sounded again, and found one hundred and ten fathoms, the same bottom as before. We now made sail with a fresh gale at N. W. and steered S. E. by E. along the coast. It extended from Cape Deseada, which bore N. 7° E., to E. S. E., a pretty high ragged isle, which lies near a league from the main, and S. 18° E. six leagues from Cape Deseada, bore N. 49° E. distant four leagues; and it obtained the name of Landfall. At four o’clock, we were north and south of the high land of Cape Deseada, distant about nine leagues; so that we saw none of the low rocks said to lie off it. The latitude of this Cape is about 53° S. longitude 74° 40ʹ W.

Continuing to range the coast, at about two leagues distance, at eleven o’clock we passed a projecting point, which I called Cape Gloucester. It shows a round surface of considerable height, and has much the appearance of being an island. It lies S. S. E., 1/2 E., distant seventeen leagues from the Isle of Landfall. The coast between them forms two bays, strewed with rocky islets, rocks, and breakers. The coast appeared very broken with many inlets; or rather it seemed to be composed of a number of islands. The land is very mountainous, rocky, and barren, spotted, here and there, with tufts of wood, and patches of snow. At noon Cape Gloucester bore N. distant eight miles, and the most advanced point of land to the S. E. which we judged to be Cape Noir, bore S. E. by S. distant seven or eight leagues. Latitude observed 54° 13ʹ S. Longitude made from Cape Deseada, 54ʹ E. From Cape Gloucester, off which lies a small rocky island, the direction of the coast is nearly S. E.; but to Cape Noir, for which we steered, the course is S. S. E., distant about ten leagues.

At three o’clock, we passed Cape Noir, which is a steep rock of considerable height, and the S. W. point of a large island that seemed to lie detached a league or a league and a half from the main land. The land of the Cape, when at a distance from it, appeared to be an island disjoined from the other; but, on a nearer approach, we found it connected by a low neck of land. At the point of the Cape are two rocks; the one peaked like a sugar-loaf, the other not so high, and showing a rounder surface; and S. by E. two leagues from the Cape are two other rocky islets. This Cape is situated in the latitude of 54° 30ʹ S. longitude 73° 33ʹ W.

After passing the two islets, we steered E. S. E. crossing the great bay of St. Barbara. We but just saw the land in the bottom of it; which could not be less than seven or eight leagues from us. There was a space, lying in the direction of E. N. E. from Cape Noir, where no land was to be seen: this may be the Channel of St. Barbara which opens into the Straits of Magalhaens, as mentioned by Frezier. We found the Cape to agree very well with his description; which shows that he laid down the channel from good memoirs. At ten o’clock, drawing near the S. E. point of the bay, which lies nearly in the direction of S. 60° E. from Cape Noir, eighteen leagues distant, we shortened sail, and spent the night standing off and on.

At two o’clock in the morning of the 19th, having made sail, we steered S. E. by E. along the coast, and soon passed the S. E. point of the Bay of St. Barbara, which I called Cape Desolation; because near it commenced the most desolate and barren country I ever saw. It is situated in the latitude of 54° 55ʹ S., longitude 72° 12ʹ W. About four leagues to the east of this Cape is a deep inlet, at the entrance of which lies a pretty large island, and some others of less note. Nearly in this situation some charts place a channel leading into the Straits of Magalhaens, under the name of Straits of Jelouzel. At ten o’clock, being about a league and a half from the land, we sounded, and found sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones and shells.

The wind, which had been fresh at N. by W. began to abate, and at noon it fell calm, when we observed in latitude 55° 20ʹ S., longitude made from Cape Deseada 3° 24ʹ E. In this situation we were about three leagues from the nearest shore, which was that of an island. This I named Gilbert Isle, after my master. It is nearly of the same height with the rest of the coast, and shows a surface composed of several peaked rocks unequally high. A little to the S. E. of it are some smaller islands, and, without them, breakers.

I have before observed that this is the most desolate coast I ever saw. It seems entirely composed of rocky mountains without the least appearance of vegetation. These mountains terminate in horrible precipices, whose craggy summits spire up to a vast height; so that hardly any thing in nature can appear with a more barren and savage aspect than the whole of this country. The inland mountains were covered with snow, but those on the sea-coast were not. We judged the former to belong to the main of Terra del Fuego, and the latter to be islands, so ranged as apparently to form a coast.

After three hours’ calm, we got a breeze at S. E. by E. and having made a short trip to south, stood in for the land; the most advanced point of which, that we had in sight, bore E., distant ten leagues. This is a lofty promontory, lying E. S. E. nineteen leagues from Gilbert Isle, and situated in latitude 55° 26ʹ S. longitude 70° 25ʹ W. Viewed from the situation we now were in, it terminated in two high towers; and within them a hill shaped like a sugar-loaf. This wild rock therefore obtained the name of York Minster. Two leagues to the westward of this head appeared a large inlet, the west point of which we fetched in with, by nine o’clock, when we tacked in forty-one fathoms water, half a league from the shore: to the westward of this inlet was another, with several islands lying in the entrance.

During the night between the 19th and 20th, we had little wind easterly, which in the morning veered to N. E. and N. N. E., but it was too faint to be of use; and at ten, we had a calm, when we observed the ship to drive from off the shore out to sea. We had made the same observation the day before. This must have been occasioned by a current; and the melting of the snow increasing, the inland waters will cause a stream to run out of most of these inlets. At noon, we observed in latitude 55° 39ʹ 30ʺ S. York Minster, then bearing N. 15° E., distant five leagues; and Round-hill, just peeping above the horizon, which we judged to belong to the isles of Saint Ildefonso, E. 25° S., ten or eleven leagues distant. At ten o’clock, a breeze springing up at E. by S., I took this opportunity to stand in for the land, being desirous of going into one of the many ports which seemed open to receive us, in order to take a view of the country, and to recruit our stock of wood and water.

In standing in for an opening, which appeared on the east side of York Minster, we had forty, thirty-seven, fifty, and sixty fathoms water, a bottom of small stones and shells. When we had the last soundings we were nearly in the middle between the two points that form the entrance to the inlet, which we observed to branch into two arms, both of them lying in nearly N., and disjoined by a high rocky point. We stood for the eastern branch as being clear of islets; and after passing a black rocky one, lying without the point just mentioned, we sounded and found no bottom with a line of an hundred and seventy fathoms. This was altogether unexpected, and a circumstance that would not have been regarded, if the breeze had continued; but, at this time, it fell calm, so that it was not possible to extricate ourselves from this disagreeable situation. Two boats were hoisted out, and sent a-head to tow; but they would have availed little, had not a breeze sprung up about eight o’clock, at S. W. which put it in my power either to stand out to sea, or up the inlet. Prudence seemed to point out the former; but the desire of finding a good port, and of learning something of the country, getting the better of every other consideration, I resolved to stand in; and as night was approaching, our safety depended on getting to an anchor. With this view we continued to sound, but always had an unfathomable depth.

Hauling up under the east side of the land which divided the two arms, and seeing a small cove a-head, I sent a boat to sound; and we kept as near the shore as the flurries from the land would permit, in order to be able to get into this place, if there should be anchorage. The boat soon returned, and informed us that there was thirty and twenty-five fathoms water, a full cable’s length from the shore. Here we anchored in thirty fathoms, the bottom sand and broken shells; and carried out a kedge and hawser, to steady the ship for the night.

CHAP. II.

TRANSACTIONS IN CHRISTMAS SOUND, WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE COUNTRY AND ITS
INHABITANTS.

The morning of the 21st was calm and pleasant. After breakfast, I set out with two boats to look for a more secure station. We no sooner got round, or above the point, under which the ship lay, than we found a cove in which was anchorage in thirty, twenty, and fifteen fathoms, the bottom stones and sand. At the head of the cove was a stony beach, a valley covered with wood, and a stream of fresh water; so that there was every thing we could expect to find in such a place, or rather more; for we shot three geese out of four that we saw, and caught some young ones, which we afterwards let go.

After discovering and sounding this cove, I sent lieutenant Clerke, who commanded the other boat, on board, with orders to remove the ship into this place, while I proceeded farther up the inlet. I presently saw that the land we were under, which disjoined the two arms, as mentioned before, was an island, at the north end of which the two channels united. After this I hastened on board, and found every thing in readiness to weigh; which was accordingly done, and all the boats sent a-head to tow the ship round the point. But, at that moment, a light breeze came in from the sea too scant to fill our sails; so that we were obliged to drop the anchor again, for fear of falling upon the point, and to carry out a kedge to windward. That being done, we hove up the anchor, warped up to, and weighed the kedge, and proceeding round the point under our stay-sails, there anchored with the best bower, in twenty fathoms; and moored with the other bower, which lay to the north, in thirteen fathoms. In this position we were shut in from the sea by the point above mentioned, which was in one with the extremity of the inlet to the east. Some islets, off the next point above us, covered us from the N. W., from which quarter the wind had the greatest fetch; and our distance from the shore was about one-third of a mile.

Thus situated, we went to work, to clear a place to fill water, to cut wood, and to set up a tent for the reception of a guard, which was thought necessary; as we had already discovered, that, barren as this country is, it was not without people, though we had not yet seen any. Mr. Wales also got his observatory and instruments on shore; but it was with the greatest difficulty he could find a place of sufficient stability, and clear of the mountains, which every where surrounded us, to set them up in; and at last he was obliged to content himself with the top of a rock, not more than nine feet over.

Next day I sent lieutenants Clerke and Pickersgill, accompanied by some of the other officers, to examine and draw a sketch of the channel on the other side of the island; and I went myself in another boat, accompanied by the botanists, to survey the northern parts of the sound. In my way, I landed on the point of a low isle covered with herbage, part of which had been lately burnt; we likewise saw a hut; signs sufficient that people were in the neighbourhood. After I had taken the necessary bearings, we proceeded round the east end of Burnt Island, and over to what we judged to be the main of Terra del Fuego, where we found a very fine harbour encompassed by steep rocks of vast height, down which ran many limpid streams of water; and at the foot of the rocks, some tufts of trees, fit for little else but fuel.

This harbour, which I shall distinguish by the name of the Devil’s Bason, is divided, as it were, into two, an inner and an outer one; and the communication between them is by a narrow channel five fathoms deep. In the outer bason, I found thirteen and seventeen fathoms water, and in the inner, seventeen and twenty-three. This last is as secure a place as can be, but nothing can be more gloomy. The vast height of the savage rocks which encompass it, deprived great part of it, even on this day, of the meridian sun. The outer harbour is not quite free from this inconvenience, but far more so than the other; it is also rather more commodious, and equally safe. It lies in the direction of north, a mile and an half distant from the east end of Burnt Island. I likewise found a good anchoring-place a little to the west of this harbour, before a stream of water that comes out of a lake or large reservoir, which is continually supplied by a cascade falling into it.

Leaving this place, we proceeded along the shore to the westward, and found other harbours, which I had not time to look into. In all of them is fresh water, and wood for fuel; but except these little tufts of bushes, the whole country is a barren rock, doomed by nature to everlasting sterility. The low islands, and even some of the higher, which lie scattered up and down the sound, are indeed mostly covered with shrubs and herbage, the soil a black rotten turf, evidently composed, by length of time, of decayed vegetables.

I had an opportunity to verify what we had observed at sea; that the sea-coast is composed of a number of large and small islands, and that the numerous inlets are formed by the junction of several channels; at least so it is here. On one of these low islands, we found several huts, which had lately been inhabited; and near them was a good deal of celery, with which we loaded our boat, and returned on board at seven o’clock in the evening. In this expedition we met with little game; one duck, three or four shags, and about that number of rails or sea-pies, being all we got. The other boat returned on board some hours before; having found two harbours on the west side of the other channel; the one large, and the other small; but both of them safe and commodious; though, by the sketch Mr. Pickersgill had taken of them, the access to both appeared rather intricate.

I was now told of a melancholy accident which had befallen one of our marines. He had not been seen since eleven or twelve o’clock the preceding night. It was supposed that he had fallen over-board out of the head, where he had been last seen, and was drowned.

Having fine pleasant weather on the 23d, I sent lieutenant Pickersgill in the cutter, to explore the east side of the sound, and went myself in the pinnace to the west side, with an intent to go round the island, under which we were at anchor, (and which I shall distinguish by the name of Shag island), in order to view the passage leading to the harbours Mr. Pickersgill had discovered the day before, on which I made the following observations. In coming from sea, leave all the rocks and islands, lying off and within York Minster, on your larboard side; and the black rock, which lies off the south end of Shag island, on your starboard; and when abreast of the south end of that island, haul over for the west shore, taking care to avoid the beds of weeds you will see before you, as they always grow on rocks; some of which I have found twelve fathoms under water; but it is always best to keep clear of them. The entrance to the large harbour, or Port Clerke, is just to the north of some low rocks lying off a point on Shag Island. This harbour lies in W. by S. a mile and an half, and hath in it from twelve to twenty-four fathoms depth, wood and fresh water. About a mile without, or to the southward of Port Clerke, is, or seemed to be, another which I did not examine. It is formed by a large island, which covers it from the south and east winds. Without this island, that is, between it and York Minster, the sea seemed strewed with islets, rocks, and breakers. In proceeding round the south end of Shag Island, we observed the shags to breed in vast numbers in the cliffs of the rocks. Some of the old ones we shot, but could not come at the young ones, which are, by far, the best eating. On the east side of the island we saw some geese; and having with difficulty landed, we killed three, which at this time was a valuable acquisition.

About seven in the evening we got on board, where Mr. Pickersgill had arrived but just before. He informed me that the land opposite to our station was an island, which he had been round; that, on another, more to the north, he found many _terns’_ eggs, and that without the great island, between it and the east head, lay a cove in which were many geese; one only of which he got, besides some young goslins.

This information of Mr. Pickersgill induced me to make up two shooting parties next day; Mr. Pickersgill and his associates going in the cutter, and myself and the botanists in the pinnace. Mr. Pickersgill went by the N. E. side of the large island above mentioned, which obtained the name of Goose Island; and I went by the S. W. side. As soon as we got under the island, we found plenty of shags in the cliffs, but, without staying to spend our time and shot upon these, we proceeded on, and presently found sport enough; for, in the south of the island, were abundance of geese. It happened to be the moulting season; and most of them were on shore for that purpose, and could not fly. There being a great surf, we found great difficulty in landing, and very bad climbing over the rocks when we were landed; so that hundreds of the geese escaped us, some into the sea, and others up into the island. We, however, by one means or other, got sixty-two; with which we returned on board, all heartily tired; but the acquisition we had made overbalanced every other consideration, and we sat down with a good appetite to supper, on part of what the preceding day had produced. Mr. Pickersgill and his associates had got on board some time before us with fourteen geese; so that I was able to make distribution to the whole crew, which was the more acceptable, on account of the approaching festival; for, had not Providence thus singularly provided for us, our Christmas cheer must have been salt beef and pork.

I now learnt that a number of the natives, in nine canoes, had been along-side the ship; and some on board. Little address was required to persuade them to either; for they seemed to be well enough acquainted with Europeans, and had, amongst them, some of their knives.

The next morning, the 25th, they made us another visit. I found them to be of the same nation I had formerly seen in Success-Bay; and the same which M. de Bougainville distinguishes by the name of Pecheras; a word which these had, on every occasion, in their mouths. They are a little, ugly, half-starved, beardless race. I saw not a tall person amongst them. They were almost naked; their clothing was a seal-skin; some had two or three sewed together, so as to make a cloak which reached to the knees; but the most of them had only one skin, hardly large enough to cover their shoulders; and all their lower parts were quite naked. The women, I was told, cover their nakedness with a flap of a seal-skin, but in other respects are clothed like the men. They, as well as the children, remained in the canoes. I saw two young children at the breast entirely naked; thus they are inured from their infancy to cold and hardships. They had with them bows and arrows, and darts, or rather harpoons, made of bone, and fitted to a staff. I suppose they were intended to kill seals and fish; they may also kill whales with them, as the Esquimaux do. I know not if they resemble them in their love of train-oil; but they, and every thing they had, smelt most intolerably of it. I ordered them some biscuit, but did not observe them so fond of it as I had been told. They were much better pleased when I gave them some medals, knives, &c.

The women and children, as before observed, remained in the canoes. These were made of bark; and in each was a fire, over which the poor creatures huddled themselves. I cannot suppose that they carry a fire in their canoes for this purpose only; but rather that it may be always ready to remove ashore wherever they land; for let their method of obtaining fire be what it may, they cannot be always sure of finding dry fuel that will kindle from a spark. They likewise carry in their canoes large seal hides, which, I judged, were to shelter them when at sea, and to serve as covering to their huts on shore; and occasionally to be used for sails.

They all retired before dinner, and did not wait to partake of our Christmas cheer. Indeed I believe no one invited them, and for good reasons; for their dirty persons, and the stench they carried about them, were enough to spoil the appetite of any European; and that would have been a real disappointment, as we had not experienced such fare for some time. Roast and boiled geese, goose-pye, &c. was a treat little known to us; and we had yet some Madeira wine left, which was the only article of our provision that was mended by keeping. So that our friends in England, did not, perhaps, celebrate Christmas more cheerfully than we did.

On the 26th, little wind, next to a calm, and fair weather, except in the morning, when we had some showers of rain. In the evening, when it was cold, the natives made us another visit; and it being distressing to see them stand trembling and naked on the deck, I could do no less than to give them some baize and old canvass to cover themselves.

Having already completed our water, on the 27th I ordered the wood, tent, and observatory to be got on board; and, as this was work for the day, a party of us went in two boats to shoot geese, the weather being fine and pleasant. We proceeded round by the south side of Goose Island, and picked up in all thirty-one. On the east side of the island, to the north of the east point, is good anchorage, in seventeen fathoms water, where it is entirely land-locked. This is a good place for ships to lie in that are bound to the west. On the north side of this isle, I observed three fine coves, in which were both wood and water; but it being near night, I had no time to sound them; though I doubt not, there is anchorage. The way to come at them is by the west end of the island.

When I returned on board, I found every thing got off the shore, and the launch in; so that we now only waited for a wind to put to sea. The festival, which we celebrated at this place, occasioned my giving it the name of Christmas Sound. The entrance, which is three leagues wide, is situated in the latitude of 55° 27ʹ S., longitude 70° 16ʹ W.; and in the direction of N. 37° W. from St. Ildefonso Isles, distant ten leagues. These isles are the best landmark for finding the sound. York Minster, which is the only remarkable land about it, will hardly be known by a stranger from any description that can be given of it, because it alters its appearance according to the different situations it is viewed from. Besides the black rock, which lies off the end of Shag Island, there is another about midway between this and the east shore. A copious description of this sound is unnecessary, as few would be benefited by it. The sketch which accompanies this journal will be a sufficient guide for such ships as chance may bring hither. Anchorage, tufts of wood, and fresh water, will be found in all the coves and harbours. I would advise no one to anchor very near the shore for the sake of having a moderate depth of water; because there I generally found a rocky bottom.

The refreshments to be got here are precarious, as they consist chiefly of wild fowl, and may probably never be found in such plenty as to supply the crew of a ship; and fish, so far as we can judge, are scarce. Indeed the plenty of wild fowl made us pay less attention to fishing. Here are, however, plenty of muscles, not very large, but well tasted; and very good celery is to be met with on several of the low islets, and where the natives have their habitations. The wild-fowl are geese, ducks, sea-pies, shags, and that kind of gull so often mentioned in this journal under the name of Port Egmont hen. Here is a kind of duck, called by our people race-horses, on account of the great swiftness with which they run on the water; for they cannot fly, the wings being too short to support the body in the air. This bird is at the Falkland Islands, as appears by Pernety’s journal.[15] The geese too are there, and seem to be very well described under the name of bustards. They are much smaller than our English tame geese, but eat as well as any I ever tasted. They have short black bills and yellow feet. The gander is all white; the female is spotted black and white, or grey with a large white spot on each wing. Besides the bird above mentioned, here are several other aquatic, and some land ones; but of the latter not many.

From the knowledge which the inhabitants seem to have of Europeans, we may suppose that they do not live here continually, but retire to the north during the winter. I have often wondered that these people do not clothe themselves better, since nature has certainly provided materials. They might line their seal-skin cloaks with the skins and feathers of aquatic birds; they might make their cloaks larger, and employ the same skins for other parts of clothing; for I cannot suppose they are scarce with them. They were ready enough to part with those they had to our people; which they hardly would have done, had they not known where to have got more. In short, of all the nations I have seen, the Pecheras are the most wretched. They are doomed to live in one of the most inhospitable climates in the world, without having sagacity enough to provide themselves with such conveniences as may render life in some measure more comfortable.

Barren as this country is, it abounds with a variety of unknown plants, and gave sufficient employment to Mr. Forster and his party. The tree which produceth the Winter’s bark, is found here in the woods, as is the holly-leaved barberry, and some other sorts which I know not, but I believe are common in the Straits of Magalhaens. We found plenty of a berry which we called the cranberry, because they are nearly of the same colour, size, and shape. It grows on a bushy plant, has a bitterish taste, rather insipid; but may be eaten either raw or in tarts, and is used as food by the natives.

CHAP. III.

RANGE FROM CHRISTMAS SOUND, ROUND CAPE HORN, THROUGH STRAIT LE MAIRE, AND ROUND STATEN LAND; WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE DISCOVERY OF A HARBOUR IN THAT ISLAND, AND A DESCRIPTION OF THE COASTS.

At four o’clock in the morning on the 28th, we began to unmoor; and at eight weighed and stood out to sea, with a light breeze at N. W. which afterwards freshened, and was attended with rain. At noon, the east point of the sound (Point Nativity), bore N. 1/2 W.; distant one and a half leagues, and St. Ildefonso Isles S. E. 1/2 S., distant seven leagues. The coast seemed to trend in the direction of E. by S., but the weather being very hazy, nothing appeared distinct.

We continued to steer S. E. by E. and E. S. E., with a fresh breeze at W. N. W., till four o’clock P. M., when we hauled to the South, in order to have a nearer view of St. Ildefonso Isles. At this time we were abreast of an inlet, which lies E. S. E. about seven leagues from the sound; but it must be observed that there are some isles without this distinction. At the west point of the inlet, are two high peaked hills; and below them, to the E. two round hills, or isles, which lie in the direction of N. E. and S. W. of each other. An island, or what appeared to be an island, lay in the entrance; and another but smaller inlet appeared to the west of this; indeed, the coast appeared indented and broken as usual.

At half-past five o’clock, the weather clearing up, gave us a good sight of Ildefonso Isles. They are a group of islands and rocks above water, situated above six leagues from the main, and in the latitude of 55° 53ʹ S., longitude 69° 41ʹ W.

We now resumed our course to the east; and, at sun-set, the most advanced land bore S. E. by E. 3/4 E.; and a point, which I judged to be the west point of Nassau Bay, discovered by the Dutch fleet under the command of Admiral Hermite in 1624, bore N. 80° E., six leagues distant. In some charts, this point is called false Cape Horn, as being the southern point of Terra del Fuego. It is situated in latitude 55° 39ʹ S. From the inlet above-mentioned to this false cape, the direction of the coast is nearly E., half a point S., distant fourteen or fifteen leagues.

At ten o’clock, having shortened sail, we spent the night in making short boards under the top-sails, and at three next morning, made sail, and steered S. E. by S. with a fresh breeze at W. S. W., the weather somewhat hazy. At this time, the west entrance to Nassau Bay extended from N. by E. to N. 1/2 E., and the south side of Hermite’s Isles, E. by S. At four, _Cape Horn_, for which we now steered, bore E. by S. It is known, at a distance, by a high round hill over it. A point to the W. N. W. shows a surface not unlike this; but their situations alone will always distinguish the one from the other.

At half past seven, we passed this famous _cape_, and entered the Southern Atlantic Ocean. It is the very same point of land I took for the cape, when I passed it in 1769, which at that time I was doubtful of. It is the most southern extremity on a group of islands of unequal extent, lying before Nassau Bay, known by the name of Hermite Islands, and is situated in the latitude of 55° 58ʹ, and in the longitude of 68° 13ʹ west, according to the observations made of it in 1769. But the observations, which we had in Christmas Sound, and reduced to the cape, by the watch, and others, which we had afterwards, and reduced back to it by the same means, place it in 67° 19ʹ. It is most probable that a mean between the two, viz. 67° 46ʹ will be nearest the truth. On the N. W. side of the cape are two peaked rocks like sugar loaves. They lie N. W. by N. and S. E. by S., by compass, of each other. Some other straggling low rocks lie west of the cape, and one south of it; but they are all near the shore. From Christmas Sound to Cape Horn, the course is E. S. E. 1/4 E. distant thirty-one leagues. In the direction of E. N. E., three leagues from Cape Horn, is a rocky point, which I called Mistaken Cape, and is the southern point of the easternmost of Hermite Isles. Between these two capes there seemed to be a passage directly into Nassau Bay; some small isles were seen in the passage; and the coast, on the west side, had the appearance of forming good bays or harbours. In some charts, Cape Horn is laid down as belonging to a small island. This was neither confirmed, nor can it be contradicted by us; for several breakers appeared in the coast, both to the east and west of it; and the hazy weather rendered every object indistinct. The summits of some of the hills were rocky, but the sides and valleys seemed covered with a green turf, and wooded in tufts.

From Cape Horn we steered E. by N. 1/2 N. which direction carried us without the rocks that lie off Mistaken Cape. These rocks are white with the dung of fowls; and vast numbers were seen about them. After passing them, we steered N. E. 1/2 E. and N. E. for Strait Le Maire, with a view of looking into Success Bay, to see if there were any traces of the Adventure having been there. At eight o’clock in the evening, drawing near the strait, we shortened sail, and hauled the wind. At this time the Sugar-loaf on Terra del Fuego bore N. 33° W.; the point of Success Bay, just open of the cape of the same name, bearing N. 20° E.; and Staten Land, extending from N. 53° E. to 67° E. Soon after, the wind died away, and we had light airs and calms by turns till near noon the next day; during which time we were driven by the current over to Staten Land.

The calm being succeeded by a light breeze at N. N. W. we stood over for Success Bay, assisted by the currents, which set to the north. Before this, we had hoisted our colours, and fired two guns; and soon after, saw a smoke rise out of the woods, above the south point of the bay; which I judged was made by the natives, as it was at the place where they resided when I was here in 1769. As soon as we got off the bay, I sent lieutenant Pickersgill to see if any traces remained of the Adventure having been there lately; and in the mean time we stood on and off with the ship. At two o’clock, the current turned and set to the south; and Mr. Pickersgill informed me when he returned, that it was falling water on shore; which was contrary to what I had observed when I was here before; for I thought then that the flood came from the north. Mr. Pickersgill saw not the least signs of any ship having been there lately. I had inscribed our ship’s name on a card, which he nailed to a tree at the place where the Endeavour watered. This was done with a view of giving Captain Furneaux some information, in case he should be behind us and put in here.

On Mr. Pickersgill’s landing, he was courteously received by several of the natives, who were cloathed in guanicoe and seal skins, and had on their arms bracelets, made of silver wire, and wrought not unlike the hilt of a sword, being no doubt the manufacture of some Europeans. They were the same kind of people we had seen in Christmas Sound; and, like them, repeated the word Pechera on every occasion. One man spoke much to Mr. Pickersgill, pointing first to the ship and then to the bay, as if he wanted her to come in. Mr. Pickersgill said the bay was full of whales and seals; and we had observed the same in the strait, especially on the Terra del Fuego side, where the whales, in particular, are exceedingly numerous.

As soon as the boat was hoisted in, which was not till near six o’clock, we made sail to the east, with a fine breeze at north. For since we had explored the south coast of Terra del Fuego, I resolved to do the same by Staten Land; which I believed to have been as little known as the former. At nine o’clock the wind freshening, and veering to N. W. we tacked, and stood to S. W. in order to spend the night; which proved none of the best, being stormy and hazy, with rain.