Chapter C: R. M (7)
The 16 of June we set saile againe, and got to the Island[s] of Orange [1199] with a south wind, which is 8 [32] miles distant from the Point of Desire; there we went one land with two small barrels and a kettle, to melt snow and to put ye water into ye barrels, as also to seeke for birds and egges to make meate for our sicke men; and being there we made fire with such wood as wee found there, and melted the snowe, but found no birds; but three of our men went ouer the ice to the other island, and got three birds, and as we came backe againe, our maister (which was one of the three) fell into the ice, where he was in great danger of his life, for in that place there ran a great streame; [1200] but by Gods helpe he got out againe and came to vs, and there dryed himselfe by the fire that we had made, at which fire we drest the birds, and carried them to the scute to our sicke men, and filled our two runlets with water that held about eight gallons [1201] a peece; which done, we put to the sea againe with a south-east wind and drowsie miseling weather, [1202] whereby we were al dankish [1203] and wet, for we had no shelter in our open scutes, and sailed west and west and by south to [opposite] the Ice Point. [1204] And being there, both our scutes lying hard by each other, the maister [1205] called to William Barents to know how he did, and William Barents made answeare and said, Well, God be thanked, and I hope before we get to Warehouse to be able to goe. [1206] Then he spake to me and said, Gerrit, are we about the Ice Point? If we be, then I pray you lift me vp, for I must veiw it once againe; [1207] at which time we had sailed from the Island[s] of Orange to the Ice Points about fiue [20] miles; and then the wind was [1208] westerly, and we made our scuts fast to a great peece of ice [1209] and there eate somewhat; but the weather was still fouler and fouler, so that we were once againe inclosed with ice and forced to stay there.
The 17 of June in the morning, when we had broken our fastes, the ice came so fast [1210] vpon vs that it made our haires stare [1211] vpright vpon our heades, it was so fearefull to behold; by which meanes we could not make fast [1212] our scutes, so that we thought verily that it was a foreshewing of our last end; for we draue away so hard with the ice, and were so sore prest between a flake of ice, that we thought verily the scutes would burst in a hundredth peeces, which made vs looke pittifully one upon the other, for no counsell nor aduise was to be found, [1213] but euery minute of an houre [1214] we saw death before our eies. At last, being in this discomfort and extreeme necessity, ye master said [1215] if we could take hold with a rope vpon the fast ice, [1216] we might therewith drawe ye scute vp, and so get it out of the great drift of ice. But as this counsell was good, yet it was so full of daunger, that it was the hazard of his life that should take vpon him to doe it; and without doing it, was it most certaine yt it would cost us all our liues. This counsell (as I said) was good, but no man (like to the tale of ye mise) durst hang the bell about ye cats necke, fearing to be drowned; yet necessity required to haue it done, and the most danger made vs chuse the least. So that being in that perplexity [and as a drowned calf may safely be risked], [1217] I being the lightest of all our company tooke on me to fasten [1218] a rope vpon the fast ice; and so creeping from one peece of driuing ice to another, by Gods help got to the fast ice, where I made a rope fast to a high howell, [1219] and they that were in the scute drew it thereby vnto the said fast ice, and then one man alone could drawe more than all of them could have done before. And when we had gotten thither, in all haste we tooke our sicke men out and layd them vpon the ice, laying clothes and other things vnder them [for them to rest on], and then tooke all our goods out of the scutes, and so drew them vpon the ice, whereby for that time we were deliuered from that great danger, making account that we had escaped out of death’s clawes, [1220] as it was most true.
The 18 of June we repaired and amended our scutes againe, being much bruised and crushed with the racking of the ice, and were forced to driue all the nailes fast againe, and to peece many things about them, [1221] God sending vs wood wherewith we moult our pitch, and did all other things that belonged thereunto. That done, some of vs went vpon the land [1222] to seeke for egges, which the sick men longed for, but we could find none, but we found foure birds, not without great danger of our liues betweene the ice and the firme land, wherein we often fell, and were in no small danger.
The 19 of June it was indifferent weather, the wind north-west, and [during the day west and] west south-west, but we were still shut vp in the ice and saw no opening, which made us thinke that there would be our last aboade, and that we should neuer get from thence; but on the other side we comforted our selves againe, that seeing God had helped vs oftentimes unexpectedly in many perils, and that his arme as yet was not shortened, but that he could [still] helpe vs [1223] at his good will and pleasure, it made vs somewhat comfortable, and caused vs to speake cheerfully one unto the other.
The 20 of June it was indifferent weather, the wind west, and when the sunne was south-east [½ p. 7 A.M.] Claes Adrianson [1224] began to be extreme sicke, whereby we perceiued that he would not liue long, and the boateson [1225] came into our scute [1226] and told vs in what case he was, and that he could not long continue aliue; whereupon William Barents spake and said, I thinke I shal not liue long after him; [1227] and yet we did not ivdge William Barents to be so sicke, for we sat talking one with the other, and spake of many things, and William Barents read in my card which I had made touching our voiage, [1228] [and we had some discussion about it]; at last he laid away the card and spake vnto me, saying, Gerrit, give me some drinke; [1229] and he had no sooner drunke but he was taken with so sodain a qualme, that he turned his eies in his head and died presently, and we had no time to call the maister out of the [other] scute to speake vnto him; and so he died before Claes Adrianson [who died shortly after him]. The death of William Barents put vs in no small discomfort, as being the chiefe guide and onely pilot on whom we reposed our selues next vnder God; [1230] but we could not striue against God, and therefore we must of force be content.
The 21 of June the ice began to driue away againe, and God made vs some opening with [a] south south-west wind; and when the sunne was [about] north west the wind began to blow south-east with a good gale, and we began to make preparations to go from thence.
The 22 of June, in the morning, it blew a good gale out of the south-east, and then the sea was reasonable open, but we were forced to draw our scutes ouer the ice to get vnto it, which was great paine and labour vnto vs, for first we were forced to draw our scutes ouer a peece of ice of 50 paces long, and there put them into the water, and then againe to draw them vp vpon other ice, and after draw them at the least 300 [1231] paces more ouer the ice, before we could bring them to a good place, where we might easily get out. And being gotten vnto the open water, we committed our selues to God and set saile, the sunne being about east-north-east, with an indifferent gale of wind out of the south and south-south-east, and sailed west and west and by south, till the sunne was south, and than we were round about enclosed with ice againe, and could not get out, but were forced to lie still. But not long after the ice opened againe like to a sluce [1232] and we passed through it and set saile againe, and so sailed along by the land, but were presently enclosed with ice; but, being in hope of opening againe, meane time we eate somewhat, for the ice went not away as it did before. After that we vsed all the meanes we could to breake it, but all in vaine; and yet a good while after the ice opened againe [of itself], and we got out and sailed along by the land, west and by south, with a south wind.
The 23 of June we sailed still forward west and by south till the sunne was south-east, and got to the Trust Point, [1233] which is distant from the Ice Point 25 [100] miles, and then could go noe further because the ice laie so hard and so close together; and yet it was faire weather. The same day we tooke the hight of the sunne with the astralabium and also with our astronomicall ring, and found his hight to be 37 degrees, and his declination 23 degrees and 30 minutes, which taken from the hight aforesaid, there rested 13 degrees and 30 minutes, which substracted out of 90 degrees, the hight of the Pole was 76 degrees and 30 minutes. [1234] And it was faire sunne-shine weather, and yet it was not so strong as to melt the snow that we might haue water to drink; so that we set all our tin platers and other things [1235] full of snow [in the sun] to melt, and so molt it [by the reflection of the sun, so that we had water to drink]; and [we also] put snow into our mouthes, to melt it downe into our throates; [1236] but all was not enough, so that we were compelled to endure great thirst.
The stretching of the land from the house [1237] where we wintered, along by the north side of Noua Zembla to the Straights of Waigats, where we passed ouer to the coast of Russia, and ouer the entry of the White Sea to Cola, [1238] according to the card [1239] here ensueing.
From the Low Land [1240] to the Streame Baie,
[1241] the course east and west 4 [16] miles.
From the Streame Baie to the Ice-hauen Point,
[1242] the course east and by north 3 [12] miles.
From the Ice-hauen Point to the Islands Point,
[1243] the course east north-east 5 [20] miles.
From the Islands Point to the Flushingers Point,
[1244] the course north-east and by east 3 [12] miles.
From the Flushingers Point to ye Head Point,
[1245] the course north-east 4 [16] miles.
From the Head Point to the Point of Desire,
[1246] the course south and north 6 [24] miles.
From the Point of Desire to the Island[s] of
Orange, [1247] north-west 8 [32] miles.
From the Islands of Orange to the Ice Point,
[1248] the course west and west and by south 5 [20] miles.
From the Ice Point to the Point of Thrust [1249]
the course [west and] west and by south 25 [100] miles.
From the Point of Trust to Nassawes Point,
[1250] the course [1251] west and by north 10 [40] miles.
From the Nassawe Point to the east end of the
Crosse Island, [1252] the course west and by
north 8 [32] miles.
From the east end of the Crosse Island to
Williams Island, [1253] the course west and by
south 3 [12] miles.
From Williams Island to the Black Point, [1254]
the course west south-west 6 [24] miles.
From the Black Point, to the east end of the
Admirable Island, [1255] the course west
south-west 7 [28] miles.
From the east to the west point of the Admirable
Island, the course west south-west 5 [20] miles.
From the west point of the Admirable Island to
Cape Planto, [1256] the course south-west and by
west 10 [40] miles.
From Cape de Planto to Lombs-bay, [1257] the
course west south-west 8 [32] miles.
From Lombs-bay to the Staues Point, [1258] the
course west south-west
From the Staues Point to [Cape de Prior or] 10 [40] miles.
Langenesse, [1259] the course south-west and by
south 14 [56] miles.
From [Cape Prior or] Langenes to Cape de Cant,
[1260] the course south-west and by south 6 [24] miles.
From Cape de Cant to the Point with the black
clifts, [1261] the course south and by west 4 [16] miles.
From the Point with the black cliftes to the
Black Island, [1262] the course south south-east 3 [12] miles.
From the Black Island to Constint-sarke, [1263]
the course east and west 2 [8] miles.
From Constint-sarke, [1264] to the Crosse Point,
[1265] the course south south-east 5 [20] miles.
From Crosse Point to S. Laurence Bay, [1266] the
course south-east [1267] 6 [24] miles.
From S. Laurence Bay [1268] to Mel-hauen, [1269]
the course [south] south-east 6 [24] miles.
From Mel-hauen to the Two Islands, [1270] the
course south south-east 16 [64] miles.
From the 2 Islands, where we crost ouer to the
Russia coast, to the Islands of Matfloo and
Delgoye, [1271] the course south-west [1272] 30 [120] myles.
From Matfloo and Delgoye to the creeke [1273]
where we sailed the compasse [almost] round
aboute, and came to the same place againe 22 [88] miles.
From that creeke to Colgoy, [1274] the course
west north-west 18 [72] miles.
From Colgoy to the east point of Camdenas,
[1275] the course west north-west 20 [80] miles.
From the east point of Camdenas to the west side
of the White Sea, the course west north-west 40 [160] miles.
From the west point of the White Sea to the 7
Islands, [1276] the course north-west 14 [56] miles.
From the 7 Islands, to the west end of Kilduin,
[1277] the course north-west 20 [80] miles.
From the west end of Kelduin to the place where
John Cornelis came vnto vs, [1278] the course
north-west and by west 7 [28] miles.
From thence to Cola, [1279] the course most
[1280] southerly 18 [72] miles.
So that we sailed in two open scutes, some times
in the ice, then ouer the ice, and through the
sea 381 [1524] miles.
[1281]
The 24 of June, the sunne being easterly, we rowed here and there [round about] in the ice, to see where we might best goe out, but we saw no opening; but when the sunne was south we got through into the sea, for the which we thanked God most heartilie that he had sent vs an vnexpected opening; and then we sailed with an east wind and went lustily forward, so that we made our account to get aboue [1282] the Point of Nassawes; [1283] [but we were again prevented by the ice which beset us, so that we were obliged to stop on the east side of the Point of Nassau] close by the land, and we could easily see the Point of Nassawes, and made our account to be about 3 [12] miles from it, the wind being south and south south-west. Then sixe of our men went on land and there found some wood, whereof they brought as much as they could into the scutes, but found neither birds nor egges; with the which wood they sod [1284] a pot of water pap (which we called matsammore [1285]), that we might eate some warme thing, the wind blowing stil southerly, [and the longer it blew the stronger it grew.]
The 25th of June it blew a great south wind, and the ice whereunto we made our selues fast was not very strong, whereby we were in greate feare that we should breake off from it and driue into the sea; for [in the evening], when the sun was in the west, a peece of that ice brake of, whereby we were forced to dislodge and make our selues fast to another peece of ice.
The 26 of June it still blew hard out of the south, and broke the ice whereunto we were fast in peeces, and we thereby draue into the sea, and could get no more to the fast ice, whereby we were in a thousand dangers to be all cast away; and driuing in yt sort in the sea, we rowed as much as we could, but we could not get neere vnto the land, therefore we hoysed vp our fock; [1286] and so made vp with our saile; [1287] but our fock-mast [1288] brake twice in peeces, and then it was worse for vs than before, [1289] and notwithstanding that there blew a great gale of wind, yet we were forced to hoyse vp our great sayle, [1290] but the wind blew so hard into it that if we had not presently taken it in againe we had sunke in the sea, [1291] or else our boate would haue bin filled with water [so that we must have sunk]; for the water began to leap ouer borde, [1292] and we were a good way in the sea, at which time the waues went so hollow [and so short] that it was most fearful, and we thereby saw nothing but death before our eyes, and euery twinckling of an eye lookt when we should sincke. But God, that had deliuered us out of so many dangers of death, holpe vs once againe, and contrary to our expectations sent vs a north-west wind, and so with great danger we got to ye fast ice againe. When we were deliuered out of that danger, and knew not where our other scute [1293] was, we sailed one mile [4 miles] along by the fast ice, but found it not, whereby we were wholy out of heart and in great feare yt they were drowned; at which time it was mistie weather. And so sailing along, and hearing no newes of our other scute, [1294] we shot of a musket, wh they hearing shot of another, but yet we could not see each other; meane time approaching nearer to each other, and the weather waxing somewhat cleerer, as we and they shot once againe, we saw the smoke of their peeces, and at last we met together againe, and saw them ly fast between driuing and fast ice. And when we got near unto them, we went ouer the ice and holp them to vnlade the goods out of their scute, and drew it ouer the ice, and with much paine and trouble brought it into the open water againe; and while they were fast in the ice, we [1295] found some wood vpon the land by the sea side, and when we lay by each other we sod [1296] some bread and water together and eate it vp warme, which did vs much good.
The 27 [1297] of June we set saile with an indifferent gale out of the east, and got a mile [4 miles] aboue the Cape de Nassaw one the west side thereof, and then we had the wind against vs, and we were forced to take in our sailes and began to rowe. And as we went along [the firm ice] close by the land, we saw so many sea-horses lying vpon the ice [more than we had ever seen before] that it was admirable, [1298] and a great number of birds, at the which we discharged 2 muskets and killed twelue of them, which we fetcht into our scutes. And rowing in that sort, we had a great mist, and then we entred into [the] driuing ice, so that we were compelled to make our scutes fast vnto the fast ice, and to stay there till the weather brake vp, [1299] the wind being west north-west and right against vs.
The 28th of June, when the sunne was in the east, we laid all our goods vpon the ice, and then drew the scutes vpon the ice also, because we were so hardly prest on all sides with the ice, and the wind came out of the sea vpon the land, and therefore we were in feare to be wholely inclosed with the ice, and should not be able to get out thereof againe. And being vpon the ice, we laid sailes [1300] ouer our scutes, and laie downe to rest, appointing one of our men to keepe watch; and when the sunne was north there came three beares towards our scutes, wherewith he that kept the watch cried [out lustily], three beares, three beares; at which noise we leapt out of our boates with our muskets, that were laden with haile-shot [1301] to shoote at birds, and had no time to discharge [1302] them, and therefore shot at them therewith; and although that kinde of shot could not hurt them much yet they ranne away, and in the meane time they gaue vs leisure to lade our muskets with bullets, and by that meanes we shot one of the three dead, which the other two perceauing ranne away, but within two houres after they came againe, but when they were almost at vs and heard us make a noise, they ranne away; at which time the wind was west and west and by north, which made the ice driue with great force into the east.
The 29th of June, the sunne being south south-west, the two beares came againe to the place where the dead beare laie, where one of them tooke the dead beare in his mouth, and went a great way with it ouer the rugged ice, and then began to eate it; which we perceauing, shot a musket at her, but she hearing the noise thereof, ran away, and let the dead beare lie. Then four of vs went thither, and saw that in so short a time she had eaten almost the halfe of her; [and] we tooke the dead beare and laid it vpon a high heap of ice, [so] that we might see it out of our scute, that if the beare came againe we might shoot at her. At which time we tried [1303] the great strenght of the beare, that carried the dead bear as lightely in her mouth as if it had beene nothing, whereas we foure had enough to doe to cary away the halfe dead beare betweene vs. Then the wind still held west, which draue the ice into the east.
The 30 of June in the morning, when the sunne was east and by north, the ice draue hard eastward by meanes of the west wind, and then there came two beares vpon a peece of ice that draue in the sea, and thought to set vpon vs, and made show as if they would leape into the water and come to vs, but did nothing, whereby we were of opinion that they were the same beares that had beene there before; and about the south-south-east sunne there came an other beare vpon the fast ice, and made [straight] towards vs; but being neare vs, and hearing vs make a noise, she went away againe. Then the wind was west-south-west, and the ice began somewhat to falle from the land; but because it was mistie weather and a hard wind, we durst not put to sea, but staid for a better opportunitie.
The 1 of Julie it was indifferent faire weather, with a west-north-west wind; and in the morning, the sunne being east, there came a beare from the driuing yce and swam over the water to the fast yce whereon we lay; but when she heard vs she came no nearer, but ran away. And when the sunne was south-east, the ice came so fast in towards vs, that all the ice whereon we lay with our scutes and our goods brake and ran one peece vpon another, whereby we were in no small feare, [1304] for at that time most of our goods fell into the water. But we with great diligence drew our scutes [1305] further vpon the ice towards the land, where we thought to be better defended from the driuing of the ice, and as we went to fetch our goods we fell into the greatest trouble that euer we had before, for yt we endured so great danger in the sauing thereof, that as we laid hold vpon one peece thereof the rest sunke downe with the ice, and many times the ice brake vnder our owne feet; whereby we were wholy discomforted and in a maner cleane out of all hope, expecting no issue thereof, in such sort that our trouble at that time surmounted all our former cares and impeachments. And when we thought to draw vp our boates [1306] vpon the ice, the ice brake vnder vs, and we were caried away with the scute and al [1307] by the driuing ice; and when we thought to saue the goods the ice brake vnder our feet, and with that the scute brak in many places, especially yt which we had mended; [1308] as ye mast, ye mast planke, [1309] and almost all the scute, [1310] wherein one of our men that was sick and a chest of mony lay, which we with great danger of our liues got out from it; for as we were doing it, the ice that was vnder our feet draue from vs and slid vpon other ice, [1311] whereby we were in danger to burst both our armes and our legs. At which time, thinking yt we had been cleane quit of our scute, [1312] we beheld each other in pittiful maner, knowing not what we should doe, our liues depending thereon; but God made so good prouision for vs, yt ye peeces of ice draue from each other, wherewith we ran in great haste vnto the scute [1313] and drew it to vs again in such case as it was, and layd it vpon the fast ice by the boate, [1314] where it was in more security, which put us unto an exceeding and great and dangerous labor from the time that the sunne was south-east vntill it was west south-west, and in al that time we rested not, which made vs extreame weary and wholy out of comfort, for that it troubled vs sore, and it was much more fearfull vnto vs then at that time when William Barents dyed; for there we were almost drowned, and that day we lost (which was sounke in the sea) two barrels of bread, a chest wt linnen cloth, a driefat [1315] with the sailors [best] clothes, our astron[omi]cale ring, a pack of scarlet cloth, a runlet of oyle, and some cheeses, and a runlet of wine, which bongd with the ice, [1316] so that there was not anything thereof saued.
The 2 of Julie, the sunne east, there came another beare vnto vs, but we making a noyse she ran away; and when the sun was west south-west it began to be faire weather. Then we began to mend our scute [1317] with the planks wherewith we had made the buyckmish; [1318] and while 6 of vs were busied about mending of our scute, the other sixe went further into the land, to seeke for some wood, and to fetch some stones to lay vpon the ice, that we might make a fire thereon, therewith to melt our pitch, which we should need about the scute, as also to see if they could fetch any wood for a mast [for the boat], which they found with certain stones, [1319] and brought them where the scutes lay. And when they came to vs againe they shewed vs that they had found certain wood which had bin clouen, [1320] and brought some wedges with them wherewith the said wood had been clouen, whereby it appeared that men had bin there. Then we made all the haste we could to make a fire, and to melt our pitch, and to do al other things that were necessary to be done for the repairing of our scute, so that we got it ready againe by that the sunne was north-east; at which time also we rosted [1321] our birds [which we had shot], and made a good meale with them.
The 3 of July in the morning, the sunne being east, two of our men went to the water, and there they found two of our oares, our helme sticke, [1322] the pack of scarlet cloth, the chest with linnen cloth, and a hat that fell out of the driefat, [1323] whereby we gest [1324] that it was broken in peeces; which they perceiuing, tooke as much with them as they could carry, and came vnto us, showing vs that they had left more goods behind them, whereupon the maister with 5 more of vs went thither, and drew al the goods vpon the firme ice, yt when we went away we might take it with vs; but they could not carry the chest nor the pack of cloth (that were ful of water) because of their waight, but were forced to let them stand till we went away, that the water might drop out [1325] of them [and we might afterwards fetch them], and so they did. [1326] The sunne being south-west there came another great beare vnto vs, which the man that kept watch saw not, and had beene deuoured by her if one of our other men that lay downe in the ship [1327] had not espied her, and called to him that kept watch to looke to himselfe, who therewith ran away. Meane time the beare was shot into the body, but she escaped; and that time the wind was east north-east.
The 4 of July it was so faire cleare weather, that from the time we were first in Noua Zembla we had not the like. Then wee washt the veluets, that had been wet with the salt water, in fresh water drawne out of snow, and then dryed them and packt them vp againe; at which time the wind was west and west south-west.
The 5 of July it was faire weather, the wind west south-west. The same day dyed John Franson [1328] of Harlem (Claes Adrians [1329] nephew, that dyed the same day when William Barents dyed [1330]), the sunne being then about north north-west; at which time the ice came mightily driuing in vpon vs, and then sixe of our men went into the land, and there fetcht some fire-wood to dresse our meate.
The 6 of July it was misty weather, but about euening it began to cleere vp, and the wind was south-east, which put vs in some comfort, and yet we lay fast vpon the ice.
The 7 of July it was faire weather with some raine, the wind west south-west, and at euening west and by north. Then wee went to the open water, and there killed [1331] thirteene birds, which wee tooke vppon a peece of driuing ice, [1332] and layd them vpon the fast ice.
The 8 of July it was close [1333] misty weather; then we drest the foules [1334] which we had killed, which gaue us a princely mealetide. [1335] In the euening there blew a fresh gale of wind, out of the north-east, which put vs in great comfort to get from thence.
The 9 of July, in the morning, the ice began to driue, whereby we got open water on the land side, and then also the fast ice whereon we lay began to driue; whereupon the master and ye men went to fetch the pack and the chest that stood vpon the ice, to put them into the scute, and then drew the scutes to the water at least 340 paces, which was hard for vs to do, in regard that the labour was great and we very weake. And when the sun was south south-east we set saile with an east wind; but when the sunne was west we were forced to make towards the fast ice againe, because thereabouts it was not yet gon; [1336] ye wind being south and came right from the land, whereby we were in good hope that it would driue awaye, and that we should proceede in our voyage.
The 10 of July, from the time that the sunne was east north-east till it was east, we tooke great paines and labour to get through the ice; and at last we got through, and rowed forth [1337] vntill wee happened to fall betweene two great flakes [1338] of ice, that closed one with the other, so that we could not get through, but were forced to draw the scutes vpon them, and to vnlade the goods, and then to draw them ouer to the open water on the other side, and then we must go fetch the goods also to the same place, being at least 110 paces long, which was very hard for vs; but there was no remedy, for it was but a folly for vs to thinke of any wearines. And when we were in the open water againe, we rowed forward as well as we could, but we had not rowed long before we fell betweene two great flakes of ice, that came driuing one against the other, but by Gods help and our speedy rowing we got from betweene them before they closed vp, and being through, we had a hard west wind right in our teeth, so that of force we were constrained to make towards the fast ice that lay by the shore, and at last with much trouble we got vnto it. And being there, we thought to row along by the fast ice vnto an island that we saw before vs; but by reason of the hard contrary wind we could not goe farre, so that we were compelled to draw the scutes and the goods vpon the ice, to see what weather [1339] God would send vs; but our courages were cooled to see ourselues so often inclosed in ye ice, being in great feare yt by meanes of the long and continuall paines (which we were forced to take) we should loose all our strength, and by that meanes should not long be able to continue or hold out.
The 11 of July in the morning as we sate fast vpon the ice, the sunne being north-east, there came a great beare out of the water running towards vs, but we watcht for her with three muskets, and when she came within 30 paces of vs we shot all the three muskets at her and killed her outright, so that she stirred not a foote, and we might see the fat run out at the holes of her skinne, that was shot in with the muskets, swimme vpon the water like oyle; and [she] so driving [1340] dead upon the water, we went vpon a flake of ice to her, and putting a rope about her neck drew her vp vpon the ice and smit out her teeth; at which time we measured her body, and found it to be eight foote thick. [1341] Then we had a west wind with a close [1342] weather; but when the sunne was south it began to cleere vp; then three of our men went to the island that lay before vs, and being there they saw the Crosse Island [1343] lying west-ward from them, and went thither to see if that sommer there had been any Russian there, and went thither vpon the fast ice that lay between the two islands; and being in the island, they could not percieue that any man had beene in it since we were there. There they got 70 [burrow-ducks’ [1344]] egges, but when they had them they knew not wherein to carry them; at last one of them put off his breeches, and tying them fast below, they carried them betweene two of them, and the third bare the musket; and so [they] came to vs againe, after they had been twelue hours out, which put vs in no small feare to think what was become of them. They told vs that they had many times gone vp to the knees in water vpon the ice betweene both the islands, and it was at least 6 [24] miles to and fro that they had gone, which made vs wonder how they could indure it, seeing we were all so weake. With the egges that they had brought we were al wel comforted, and fared like lords, so that we found some reliefe in our great misery, [1345] and then we shared our last wine amongst us, whereof euery one had three glasses. [1346]
The 12 of July in the morning, when the sunne was east, the wind began to blow east and east north-east, with misty weather; and at euening six of our men went into the land [1347] to seeke certaine stones, [1348] and found some, but none of the best sort; and comming backe againe, either of them brought some wood.
The 13 of July it was a faire day; then seuen of our men went to the firme land to seeke for more stones, and found some; at which time the wind was south-east.
The 14 of July it was faire weather with a good south wind, and then the ice began to driue from the land, whereby we were in good hope to haue an open water; but the wind turning westerly againe, it lay still [firm]. When the sunne was south-west, three of our men went to the next island that lay before vs, and there shot a bercheynet, [1349] which they brought to the scute and gaue it amongst vs, for all our goods were [in] common.
The 15 of July it was misty weather; that morning the wind was south-east, but the sunne being west it began to raine, and the wind turned west and west south-west.
The 16 of July there came a beare from the firme land that came very neere vnto vs, by reason that it was as white as snow, whereby at first we could not discerne it to be a beare, because it shewed so like the snow; but by her stirring at last wee perceiued her, and as she came neere vnto vs we shot at her and hit her, but she ran away. That morning the wind was west, and after that againe east north-east, with close [1350] weather.
The 17 of July, about the south south-east sunne, 5 of our men went againe to the nearest island to see if there appeared any open water, for our long staying there was no small griefe vnto vs, perceiuing not how we should get from thence; who being halfe way thither, they found a beare lying behind a peece of ice, which the day before had beene shot by vs, but she hearing vs went away; but one of our men following her with a boate-hooke, thrust her into the skinne, [1351] wherewith the beare rose vp vpon her hinder feet, and as the man thrust at her againe, she stroke the iron of the boat-hooke in peeces, wherewith the man fell downe vpon his buttocks. Which our other two men seeing, two of them shot the beare into the body, and with that she ran away, but the other man went after her with his broken staffe, and stroke the beare vpon the backe, wherewith the beare turned about against the man three times one after the other; and then the other two came to her, and shot her into the body againe, wherewith she sat downe vpon her buttocks, and could scant [1352] runne any further; and then they shot once againe, wherewith she fell downe, and they smot [1353] her teeth out of her head. All that day the wind was north-east and east north-east.
The 18 of July, about the east sunne, three of our men went vp vpon the highest part of the land, to see if there was any open water in the sea; at which time they saw much open water, but it was so farre from the land that they were almost out of comfort, because it lay so farre from the land and the fast ice; being of opinion that we should not be able to drawe the scutes and the goods so farre thither, because our strengthes stil began to decrease, [1354] and the sore labour and paine that we were forced to indure more and more increased. And comming to our scutes, they brought vs that newes; but we, being compelled thereunto by necessity, abandoned all wearines and faint heartednes, and determined with our selues to bring the boates and the goods to the water side, and to row vnto that ice where we must passe ouer to get to the open water. And when we got to it, we vnladed our scutes, and drewe them first [the one and then the other] ouer the ice to the open water, and after that the goods, it being at the least 1000 paces; which was so sore a labour for vs, that as we were in hand therewith we were in a manner ready to leaue off in the middle thereof, and feared that wee should not goe through withall; but for that we had gone through so many dangers, we hoped yt we should not be faint therin, wishing yt it might be ye last trouble yt we should as then indure, and so wt great difficulty got into the open water about the south-west sunne. Then we set saile till the sunne was west and by south, and presently fell amongst the ice againe, where we were forced to drawe vp the scutes againe vpon the ice; and being vpon it, we could see the Crosse Island, which we gest to be about a mile [4 miles] from vs, the wind then being east and east north-east.
The 19 of July, lying in that manner vpon the ice, about the east sunne seuen of our men went to the Crosse Island, and being there they saw great store of open water in ye west, wherewith they much reioyced, and made as great haste as they could to get to the scutes againe; but before they came away they got a hundred egges, and brought them away with them. And comming to the scutes, they shewed vs that they had seen as much open water in the sea as they could decerne; being in good hope that that would be the last time that they should draw the scutes ouer the ice, and that it should be no more measured by vs, [1355] and in that sort put vs in good comfort. Whereupon we made speede to dresse our egges, and shared them amongst vs; and presently, the sun being south south-west, we fell to worke to make all things ready to bring the scutes to the water, which were to be drawen at least 270 [1356] paces ouer the ice, which we did with a good [1357] courage because we were in good hope that it would be the last time. And getting to the water, we put to sea, with Gods [merciful] helpe [in his mercy], with an east and east north-east wind and a good gale, [1358] so that with the west sun we past by the Crosse Island, which is distant from Cape de Nassawes 10 [40] miles. And presently after that the ice left vs, and we got cleere out of it; yet we saw some in the sea, but it troubled vs not; and so we held our course west and by south, with a good gale of wind [1359] out of the east and east north-east, so that we gest that betweene euery mealetide [1360] we sailed eighteene [72] miles, wherewith we were exceedingly comforted [and full of joy], giuing God thanks that he had deliuered [and saved] vs out of so great and many difficulties (wherein it seemed that we should haue bin ouerwhelmed), hoping in his mercie that from thence foorth he would [still mercifully] ayde vs. [1361]
The 20 of July, hauing still a good gale, [1362] about the south-east sunne we past along by the Black Point, [1363] which is twelue [48] miles distant from the Crosse Island, and sailed west south-west; and about the euening with the west sunne we saw the Admirable Island, [1364] and about the north sunne past along by it, which is distant from the Black Point eight [32] miles. And passing along by it, we saw about two hundred sea horses lying upon a flake of ice, and we sayled close by them and draue them from thence, which had almost cost vs deere; [1365] for they, being mighty strong fishes [1366] and of great force, swam towards vs (as if they would be reuenged on us for the dispight that we had don them) round about our scuts [1367] with a great noyse, as if they would haue deuoured vs; but we escaped from them by reason that we had a good gale of wind, yet it was not wisely done of vs to wake sleeping wolues.
The 21 of July we past by Cape Pluncio [1368] about the east north-east sunne, which lyeth west south-west eight [32] miles from ye Admirable Island; [1369] and with the good gale yt we had, about ye south-west sun we sailed by Langenes, 9 [36] miles from Cape Pluncio; there the land reacheth most south-west, and we had a good [1370] north-east winde.
The 22 of July, we hauing so good a gale of wind, [1371] when we came to Cape de Cant, [1372] there we went on land to seeke for some birds and egs, but we found none; so we sayled forwards. But after yt, about ye south sun, we saw a clift [1373] yt was ful of birds; thither we sailed, and casting stones at them, we killed 22 birds and got fifteene egges, which one of our men fetcht from the clift, and if we would haue stayed there any longer we might haue taken a hundred or two hundred birds at least; but because the maister was somewhat further into sea-ward then we and stayed for vs, and for that we would not loose that faire fore-wind, [1374] we [speedily] sailed forwards [close] a long by the land; and about the south-west sunne we came to another point, where we got [about] a hundred [and] twenty fiue birds, which we tooke with our hands out of their neasts, and some we killed with stones and made them fal downe into the water; for it is a thing certaine yt those birds neuer vsed to see men, and that no man had euer sought or vsed to take them, for else they would haue flowne away, [1375] and that they feared no body but the foxes and other wilde beastes, that could not clime up the high clifts, [1376] and that therefore they had made their nests thereon, where they were out of feare of any beastes comming vnto them; for we were in no small daunger of breaking of our legges and armes, especially as we came downe againe, because the clift was so high and so stepe. Those birds had euery one but one egge in their neasts, and that lay vpon the bare clift without any straw or other [soft] thing vnder them, which is to be wondred at to thinke how they could breed [1377] their young ones in so great cold; but it is to be thought and beleeued that they therfore sit but vpon one egge, that so the heat which they giue in breeding so many, [having so much more power,] may be wholy giuen vnto one egge, and by that meanes it hath all the heat of the birde vnto it selfe, [and is not divided among many eggs at the same time]. And there also we found many egges, but most of them were foule and bad. And when we left them, [1378] the wind fell flat against vs and blew [a strong breeze from the] north-west, and there also we had much ice, and we tooke great paines to get from the ice, but we could not get aboue it. [1379] And at last by lauering [1380] we fell into the ice; and being there we saw much open water [1381] towards the land, whereunto we made as well as we could. But our maister, (that was [with his boat] more to sea ward,) perceiuing vs to be in the ice, thought we had gotten some hurt, and lauered to and againe along by the ice; but at last seeing that we sailed therein, [1382] he was of opinion that we saw some open water, [1383] and that we made towards it (as it was true), and therefore he wound also towards vs and came to land by us, where we found a good hauen and lay safe almost from all winds, and he came thither about two houres after vs. There we went on land, and got some eggs and [picked up] some wood to make a fire, wherewith we made ready [1384] the birds that we had taken; at which time we had a north-west wind with close [1385] weather.
The 23 of July it was darke and mistie weather, with a north wind, whereby we were forced to lye still in that creeke or hauen: meanetime some of our men went on land, [1386] to seeke for some egges and [perchance also for] stones, [1387] but found not many, but a reasonable number of good stones.
The 24 of July it was faire weather, but the wind still northerly, whereby we were forced to lye still; and about noone we tooke the higth of ye sun with our astrolabium, and found it to be eleuated aboue the horizon 37 degrees and 20 min., his declination 20 degrees and 10 minutes, which substracted from ye higth aforesaid rested 17 degrees and 10 minutes, which taken from 90 degrees, the higth of the Pole was 73 degrees and 10 minutes. [1388] And for yt we lay stil there, some of our men went often times on land to seeke stones, and found some that were as good as euer any that we found.
The 25 of July it was darke misty weather, the wind north, but we were forced to ly still because it blew so hard.
The 26 of July it began to be faire weather, which we had not had for certaine [1389] daies together, the wind still north; and about the south sunne we put to sea, but it was so great a creeke that we were forced to put foure [16] miles into the sea, [1390] before wee could get about [1391] the point thereof; and it was most in [1392] the wind, so that it was midnight before wee got aboue it, sometimes sayling and sometimes rowing; and hauing past it, we stroke [1393] our sailes and rowed along by the land.
The 27 of July it was faire cleare weather, so that we rowed all that day through the broken ice along by the land, the wind being north-west; and at evening, about the west sunne, we came to a place where there ran a great streame, [1394] whereby we thought that we were about Constinsarke; [1395] for we saw a great creeke, and we were of opinion yt it went through to the Tartarian Sea. [1396] Our course was most south-west: about the north sunne we past along by the Crosse Point, [1397] and sailed between the firme land and an island, and then went south south-east with a north-west wind, and made good speed, the maister with ye scute being a good way before us; but when he had gotten about ye point of the island he staied for vs, and there we lay [some time] by ye clifts, [1398] hoping to take some birds, but got none; at which time we had sailed from Cape de Cant along by Constinsarke to the Crosse Point 20 [80] miles, our course south south-east, the wind north-west.
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The Three Voyages of William Barents to the Arctic Regions (1594, 1595, and 1596)Chapter C: R. M (7)
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