Chapter C: R. M (8)

The 28 of July it was faire weather, with a north-east wind; then we sailed along by the land, and with the south-west sunne got before S. Laurence Bay, or Sconce Point, [1399] and sayled south south-east 6 [24] miles; and being there, we found two Russians lodgies [1400] or ships beyond the Point, wherewith we were [on the one hand] not a little comforted to thinke that we were come to the place where we found men, but were [on the other hand] in some doubt of them because they were so many, for at that time wee sawe at least 30 men, and knew not what [sort of persons] they were [whether savages or other foreigners [1401]]. There with much paine and labour we got to the land, which they perceiuing, left off their worke and came towards vs, but without any armes; and wee also went on shore, as many as were well, [1402] for diuers of vs were very ill at ease and weake by reason of a great scouring in their bodies. [1403] And when wee met together wee saluted each other in friendly wise, they after theirs, and we after our manner. And when we were met, both they and we lookt each other stedfastly [and pitifully] in the face, for that some of them knew vs, and we them to bee the same men which the yeare before, when we past through the Weigats, had been in our ship; [1404] at which time we perceiued yt they were abasht and wondered at vs, [1405] to remember that at that time we were so well furnished with a [splendid] great ship, that was exceedingly prouided of all things necessary, and then to see vs so leane and bare, [1406] and with so small [open] scutes into that country. And amongst them there were two that in friendly manner clapt ye master and me upon the shoulder, as knowing vs since ye [former] voiage: for there was none of all our men that was as then in that voiage [1407] but we two onley; and [they] asked vs for our crable, [1408] meaning our ship, and we shewed them by signes as well as we could (for we had no interpreter) that we had lost our ship in the ice; wherewith they sayd Crable pro pal, [1409] which we vnderstood to be, Haue you lost your ship? and we made answere, Crable pro pal, which was as much as to say, that we had lost our ship. And many more words we could not vse, because we vnderstood not each other. Then they made shew [1410] to be sorry for our losse and to be grieued that we the yeare before had beene there with so many ships, and then to see vs in so simple manner, [1411] and made vs signes that then they had drunke wine in our ship, and asked vs what drinke we had now; wherewith one of our men went into the scute [1412] and drew some water, and let them taste thereof; but they shakt their heads, and said No dobbre, [1413] that is, it is not good. Then our master went neerer vnto them and shewed them his mouth, to giue them to vnderstand that we were troubled with a loosnesse in our bellies, [1414] and to know if they could giue vs any councel to help it; but they thought we made shew that we had great hunger, wherewith one of them went unto their lodging [1415] and fetcht a round rie loafe weighing about 8 pounds, with some smoked [1416] foules, which we accepted thankfully, and gaue them in exchange halfe a dozen of muschuyt. [1417] Then our master led two of the chiefe of them with him into his scute, and gaue them some of the wine that we had, being almost a gallon, [1418] for it was so neere out. And while we staied there we were very familiar with them, and went to the place where they lay, and sod some of our mischuyt [1419] with water by their fire, that we might eate some warme thing downe into our bodies. And we were much comforted to see the Russians, for that in thirteene moneths time [since] that we departed from John Cornelison [1420] we had not seene any man, but onely monsterous and cruell [1421] wild beares; for that [1422] as then we were in some comfort, to see that we had liued so long to come in company of men againe, and therewith we said vnto each other, now we hope that it will fall out better with vs, seeing we haue found men againe, thanking God with all our hearts, that he had beene so gracious and mercifull vnto vs, to giue vs life vntill that time.

The 29 of July it was reasonable faire weather, and that morning the Russians began to make preparation to be gone and to set saile; at which time they digd certaine barrels with traine oile out of the sieges, [1423] which they had buried there, and put it into their ships; and we not knowing whither they would go, saw them saile towards ye Weigats: at which time also we set saile and followed after them. But they sayling before vs, and we following them along by the land, the weather being close and misty, we lost the sight of them, and knew not whether they put into any creeke or sayled forward; but we held on our course south south-east, with a north-west wind, and then south-east, betweene [the] two islands, vntill we were inclosed with ice againe and saw no open water, whereby we supposed that they were about the Weigats, and that the north-west wind had driuen the ice into that creeke. And being so inclosed wt ice, and saw no open water before vs, but with great labour and paines we went back againe to the two islands aforesaid, and there about the north-east sunne we made our scutes fast at one of the islands, for as then it began to blowe hard[er and harder].

The 30 of July lying at anchor, [1424] the wind still blew [just as stiff from the] north-west, with great store of raine and a sore storme, so that although we had couered our scutes with our sailes, yet we could not lye dry, which was an vnaccustomed thing vnto vs: for we had had no raine in long time before, and yet we were forced to stay there all that day.

The 31 of July, in the morning, about the north-east sunne, we rowed from that island to another island, whereon there stood two crosses, whereby we thought that some men had laine there about trade of merchandise, as the other Russians that we saw before had done, but we found no man there; the wind as then being north-west, whereby the ice draue still towards the Weigats. [1425] There, to our great good, we went on land, for in that island we found great store of leple leaues, [1426] which serued vs exceeding well; and it seemed that God had purposely sent vs thither, for as then we had many sicke men, and most of vs were so troubled with a scouring in our bodies, and were thereby become so weake, that we could hardly row, but by meanes of those leaues we were healed thereof: for that as soone as we had eaten them we were presently eased and healed, whereat we could not choose but wonder, [1427] and therefore we gave God great thanks for that and for many other his mercies shewed vnto vs, by his great and vnexpected ayd lent vs in that our dangerous voyage. And so, as I sayd before, we eate them by whole handfuls together, because in Holland wee had heard much spoken of their great force, and as then found it to be much more than we expected.

The 1 of August the wind blew hard north-west, and the ice, that for a while had driuen towards the entry of the Weigats, stayed and draue no more, but the sea went very hollow, [1428] whereby we were forced to remoue our scutes on the other side of the island; to defend them from the waues of the sea. And lying there, we went on land againe to fetch more leple leaues, [1429] whereby wee had bin so wel holpen, and stil more and more recouered our healths, and in so short time that we could not choose but wonder thereat; so that as then some of vs could eate bisket againe, which not long before they could not do. [1430]

The 2 of August it was dark misty weather, the wind stil blowing stiffe north-west; at which time our victuals began to decrease, for as then we had nothing but a little bread and water, and some of vs a little cheese, which made vs long sore to be gone from thence, specially in regard of our hunger, whereby our weake members began to be much weaker, and yet we were forced to labour sore, which were two great contraries; for it behoued vs rather to haue our bellies full, that so we might be the stronger to endure our labour; but patience was our point of trust. [1431]

The 3 of August, about the north sun, the weather being somewhat better, we agreed amongst our selues to leaue Noua Zembla and to crosse ouer to Russia; and so committing our selues to God, we set saile with a north-west wind, and sailed south south-west till the sun was east, and then we entred into ice againe, which put vs in great feare, for we had crost ouer and left the ice vpon Noua Zembla, [1432] and were in good hope yt we should not meet with any ice againe in so short space. At which time, being [thus] in the ice, with calme weather, whereby our sailes could doe vs no great good, we stroke [1433] our sailes and began to row againe, and at last we rowed clean through the ice, [1434] not without great and sore labour, and about the south-west sunne got cleere thereof and entred into the large sea, [1435] where we saw no ice; and then, what with sailing and rowing, we had made 20 [80] miles. And so sailing forwards we thought to aproch neere vnto the Russian coast, but about the north-west sunne we entred into the ice againe, and then it was very cold, wherewith our hearts became very heauy, fearing that it would alwaies continew in that sort, and that we should neuer be freed thereof. And for that our boate [1436] could not make so good way nor was not able to saile aboue [1437] the point of ice, we were compelled to enter into the ice, for that being in it we perceiued open sea beyond it; but the hardest matter was to get into it, for it was very close, but at last we found a meanes to enter, and got in. And being entred, it was somewhat better, and in the end with great paine and labour we got into the open water. Our maister, that was in the scute, [1438] which sailed better than our boate, [1439] got aboue [1440] the point of the ice, and was in some feare that we were inclosed with ye ice; but God sent vs the meanes to get out from it as soone as he could saile about the point thereof, [1441] and so we met together againe.

The 4 of August, about the south-east sunne, being gotten out of the ice, we sailed forward with a north-west wind, and held our course [mostly] southerly; and when the sunne was [about] south, at noone time, we saw the coast of Russia lying before vs, whereat we were exceeding glad; and going neerer vnto it, we stroke [1442] our sailes and rowed on land, and found it to be very low land, like a bare strand that might be flowed ouer with the water. [1443] There we lay till the sunne was south-west; but perceiuing that there we could not much further our selues, hauing as then sailed from the point of Noua Zembla (from whence we put off) thither ful 30 [120] miles, we sailed forward along by the coast of Russia with an indifferent gale of wind, and when the sunne was north we saw another Russian iolle or ship, [1444] which we sailed vnto to speake with them; and being hard by them, they came al aboue hatches, [1445] and we cried vnto them, Candinaes, Candinaes, [1446] whereby we asked them if we were about Candinaes, but they cryed againe and sayd, Pitzora, Pitzora, [1447] to shew vs that we were thereabouts. And for yt we sailed along by the coast, where it was very drie, [1448] supposing that we held our course west and by north, that so we might get beyond the point of Candinaes, we were wholy deceiued by our compas, that stood vpon a chest bound with yron bands, which made vs vary at least 2 points, whereby we were much more southerly then we thought our course had bin, and also farre more easterly, for we thought verily that we had not bin farre from Candinaes, and we were three daies sailing from it, as after we perceiued; [1449] and for that we found our selues to be so much out of our way, we stayed there all night til day appeared.

The 5 of August, lying there, one of our men went on shore, and found the land further in to be greene and ful of trees, [1450] and from thence called to vs to bid vs bring our peeces on shore, saying that there was wild deere to be killed, [1451] which made vs exceeding glad, for then our victuales were almost spent, and we had nothing but some broken bread, [1452] whereby we were wholy out of comfort, and [1453] some of vs were of opinion that we should leaue the scutes and goe further into the land, or else (they said) we should all die with hunger, for that many daies before we were forced to fast, and hunger was a sharpe sword which we could hardly endure any longer.

The 6 of August the weather began to be somewhat better; at which time we determined to row forward, because the wind was [dead] against vs, [so] that we might get out of the creeke, [1454] the wind being east south-east, which was our course as then. And so, hauing rowed about three [12] miles, we could get no further because it was so full in the wind, and we al together heartlesse and faint, the land streatching further north-east then we made account it had done, [1455] whereupon we beheld each other in pittifull manner, for we had great want of victuals, and knew not how farre we had to saile before we should get any releefe, for al our victuals was almost consumed.

The 7 of August, the wind being west north-west, it serued vs well to get out of that creeke, and so we sailed forward east and by north till we got out of the creeke, to the place and the point of land where we first had bin, and there made our scutes fast again; for the north-west wind was right against vs, whereby our mens hearts and courages were wholy abated, to see no issue how we should get from thence; for as then sicknesses, hunger, and no meanes to be found how to get from thence, consumed both our flesh and our bloud; but if we had found any releefe, [1456] it would haue bin better with vs.

The 8 of August there was no better weather, but still the wind was [dead] against vs, and we lay a good way one from the other, as we found best place for vs; at which time there was most dislike [1457] in our boate, in regard that some of vs were exceeding hungrie and could not endure it any longer, but were wholy out of heart still [1458] wishing to die.

The 9 of August it was all one weather, so that the wind blowing contrary we were forced to lye still and could goe no further, our greefe still increasing more and more. At last, two of our men went out of the scute wherein the maister was, which we perceiuing two of our men also landed, and went altogether about a mile [4 miles] into the countrie, [1459] and at last saw a banke, by the which there issued a great streame of water, [1460] which we thought to be the way from whence the Russians came betweene Candinaes and the firme land of Russia. [1461] And as our men came backe againe, in the way as they went along they found a dead sea-horse [1462] that stanke exceedingly, which they drew with them to our scute, [1463] thinking that they should haue a dainty morsell [1464] out of it, because they endured so great hunger; but we [dissuaded them from it, and] told them that without doubt it would kil us, and that it were better for vs to endure pouerty and hunger for a time, then to venture vpon it; saying, that seeing God, who [1465] in so many great extremitys had sent vs a happy issue, stil liued and was exceeding powerfull, we hoped and nothing doubting that he would not altogether forsake vs, but rather helpe vs when we were most in dispaire. [1466]

The 10 of August it was stil a north-west wind, with mistie and darke [1467] weather, so that we were driuen [1468] to lie still; at which time it was no need for vs to aske one another how we fared, for we could well gesse it by our countenances.

The 11 of August, in the morning, it was faire calme weather; so that, the sunne being about north-east, the master sent one of his men to vs to bid vs prepare our selues to set saile, but we had made our selues ready thereunto before he came, and [had] began to rowe towards him. At which time, for that I was very weake and no longer able to rowe, as also for that our boate [1469] was harder to rowe then the scute, [1470] I was set in the scute to guide the helme, and one that was stronger was sent out of the scute into the boate to rowe in my place, that we might keepe company together; and so we rowed till ye sunne was south, and then we had a good gale of wind out of the south, which made vs take in our oares, and then we hoised vp our sailes, wherewith we made good way; but in the euening the wind began to blowe hard, whereby we were forced to take in our sailes and to rowe towards the land, where we laid our scutes vpon the strand, [1471] and went on land to seeke for fresh water, but found none. And because we could goe no further, we laid our sailes ouer the boates to couer vs from the weather; at which time it began to raine very hard, and at midnight it thundred and lightned, with more store of raine, where with our company were much disquieted to see that they found no meanes of releefe, but still entred into further trouble and danger.

The 12 of August it was faire weather; at which time, the sunne being east, we saw a Russia lodgie [1472] come towards vs with al his sailes vp, wherewith we were not a little comforted, which we perceauing from the strand, where we laie with our scutes, we desired the master that we might goe [1473] vnto him to speake with him, and to get some victuales of them; and to that end we made as much haste as we could to launche out our scutes, [1474] and sailed toward them. And when we got to them, the master went into the lodgie to aske them how farre we had to Candinaes, which we could not well learne of them because we understood them not. They held vp their fiue fingers vnto vs, but we knew not what they ment thereby, but after we perceaued that thereby they would show us that there stood five crosses upon it; and they brought their compas out and shewed vs that it lay north-west from us, which our compas also shewed vs, which reckning also we had made; but when we saw we could haue no better intelligence from them, the master went further into their ship, and pointed to a barrell of fish yt he saw therein, making signes to know whether they would sel it vnto vs, showing them a peece of 8 royles; [1475] which they vnderstanding, gave vs 102 fishes, with some cakes which they had made of meale when they sod [1476] their fishe. And about the south sunne we left them, being glad that we had gotten some victuales, for long before we had had but two [1477] ounces of bread a day with a little water, and nothing else, and with that we were forced to comfort our selues as well as we could. The fishes we shared amongst vs equally, to one as much as another, [1478] without any difference. And when we had left them, we held our course west and by north, with a south and a south and by east wind; and when the sunne was west south west it began to thunder and raine, but it continued not long, for shortly after the weather began to cleare vp againe; and passing forward in that sort, we saw the sunne in our common compas go downe north and by west. [1479]

The 13 of August we [again] had the wind against vs, being west south-west, and our course was west and by north, whereby we were forced to put to the shore againe, where two of our men went on the land to see how it laie, and whether the point of Candinaes reacht not out from thence into the sea, for we gest that we were not farre from it. Our men comming againe, showed vs that they had seene a house vpon the land, but no man in it, and said further that they could not perceaue but that it was the point of Candinaes that we had seene, wherewith we were somewhat comforted, and went into our scutes againe, and rowed along by the land; at which time hope made vs to be of good comfort, and procured vs to doe more then we could well haue done, for our liues and maintenance consisted therein. And in that sort rowing along by the land, we saw an other Russian iollie [1480] lying vpon the shore, which was broken in peeces; but we past by it, and a little after that we saw a house at the water-side, whereunto some of our men went, wherein also they found no man, but only an ouen. And when they came againe to the scute, they brought some leple leaues [1481] with them, which they had found [1482] as they went. And as we rowed along by the point, we had [again] a good gale of winde [1483] out of the east, at which time we hoised vp our sailes and sailed foreward. And after noone, about the south-west sunne, we perceaued that the point which we had seene laie south-ward, whereby we were fully perswaded that it was the point of Candinaes, from whence we ment [1484] to saile ouer the mouth of the White Sea; [1485] and to that end we borded each other and deuided our candles and all other things that we should need amongst vs, [1486] to helpe our selues therewith, and so put of from the land, thinking to passe ouer the White Sea to the coast of Russia. [1487] And sailing in that sort with a good winde, about midnight there rose a great storme out of the north, wherewith we stroke saile and made it shorter; [1488] but our other boate, that was harder vnder saile, [1489] (knowing not that we had lessened our sailes,) sailed foreward, whereby we straied one from the other, for then it was very darke.

The 14 of August in the morning, it being indifferent good weather with a south-west wind, we sailed west north-west, and then it began to cleare vp, so that we [just] saw our [other] boate, and did what we could to get vnto her, but we could not, because it began to be mistie weather againe; and therefore we said unto each other, let vs hold on our course, we shal finde them wel enough on the north coast, when we are past the White Sea. [1490] Our course was west north-west, the wind being south-west and by west, and about the south-west sunne, we could get no further, because the wind fel contrary, whereby we were forced to strike our sailes and to row forward; and in that sort, rowing till the sunne was west, there blew an indifferent gale of wind [1491] out of the east, and therewith we set saile (and yet we rowed with two oares) till the sunne was north north-west, and then the wind began to blow somewhat stronger east and east south-east, at which time we tooke in our oares and sailed forward west north-west.

The 15 of August wee saw the sunne rise east north-east, wherevpon we thought that our compasse varied somewhat; [1492] and when the sunne was east it was calme weather againe, wherewith we were forced to take in our sailes and to row againe, but it was not long before wee had a gale of winde [1493] out of the south-east, and then we hoysed vp our sailes againe, and went forward west and by south. And sayling in that manner with a good forewind, [1494] when the sunne was south we saw land, [1495] thinking that as then we had beene on the west side of the White Sea beyond Cardinaes; and being close vnder the land, we saw sixe Russian lodgies [1496] lying there, to whom we sailed and spake with them, asking them how far wee were from Kilduin; [1497] but although they vnderstood vs not well, yet they made vs such signes that we vnderstood by them that we were still farre from thence, and that we were yet on the east side of Candinaes. And with that they stroke their hands together, [1498] thereby signifying yt we must first passe ouer the White Sea, and that our scutes were too little to doe it, and that it would be ouer great daunger for vs to passe ouer it with so small scutes, and that Candinaes was still north-west from vs. Then wee asked them for some bread, and they gaue vs a loafe, which [dry as it was] wee eate hungerly vp as wee were rowing, but wee would not beleeue them that we were still on the east side of Cardinaes, for we thought verily that wee had past ouer the White Sea. And when we left them, we rowed along by the land, the wind beeing north; and about the north-west sunne we had a good wind againe from the south-east, and therewith we sayled along by the shore, and saw a great Russian lodgie lying on the starreboord from vs, which we thought came out of the White Sea.

The 16 of August in the morning, sayling forward north-west, wee perceiued that we were in a creeke, [1499] and so made towards ye Russian lodgie which we had seene on our starreboord, which at last with great labour and much paine we got vnto; and comming to them about the south-east sunne, with a hard wind, we asked them how farre we were from Sembla de Cool [1500] or Kilduin; but they shooke their heads, and shewed us that we were on the east side of Zembla de Candinaes [1501] but we would not beleeue them. And then we asked them [for] some victuals, wherewith they gaue vs certaine plaice, for the which the maister gaue them a peece of money, and [we] sailed from them againe, to get out of that hole where wee were, [1502] as it reacht into the sea; but they perceiuing that we tooke a wrong course and that the flood was almost past, sent two men vnto vs, in a small boate, with a great loafe of bread, which they gaue vs, and made signes vnto vs to come aboord of their ship againe, [1503] for that they intended to haue further speech with vs and to help [1504] vs, which we seemed not to refuse and desiring not to be vnthankfull, gaue them a peece of money and a peece of linnen cloth, but they stayed still by vs, and they that were in the great lodgie held vp bacon and butter vnto vs, to mooue vs to come aboord of them againe, and so we did. And being with them, they showed vs that we were stil on the east side of the point of Candinaes; then we fetcht our card [1505] and let them see it, by the which they shewed vs that we were still on the east side of the White Sea and of Candinaes; which we vnderstanding, were in some doubt with our selues [1506] because we had so great a voiage to make ouer the White Sea, and were in more feare for our companions that were in the boate, [1507] as also yt hauing sailed 22 [88] miles along by the Russian coast, [1508] we had gotten no further, but were then to saile ouer the mouth of the White Sea with so small prouision; for which cause the master bought of ye Russians three sacks wt meale, two flitches and a halfe of bacon, a pot of Russia butter, and a runlet of honny, for prouision for vs and our boate [1509] when we should meet with it againe. And for yt in the meane time the flood was past, we sailed with the [beginning of the] ebbe out of the aforesaid creeke [1510] where the Russians boate [1511] came to vs, and entred into the sea with a good south-east wind, holding our course north north-west; and there we saw a point that reacht out into the sea, which we thought to be Candinaes, but we sailed still forward, and the land reached north-west. [1512] In the euening, the sunne being north-west, when we saw that we did not much good with rowing, and that the streame [1513] was almost past, we lay still, and sod [1514] a pot full of water and meale, which tasted exceeding well, because we had put some bacon fat and honny into it, so that we thought it to be a feastiuall day [1515] with vs, but still our minds ran vpon our boate, [1516] because we knew not where it was.

The 17 of August, lying at anchor, in the morning at breake of day we saw a Russian lodgie that came sayling out of the White Sea, to whom we rowed, that we might haue some instruction [1517] from him; and when we boorded him, without asking or speaking vnto him, he gaue vs a loafe of bread, and by signes shewed vs as well as he could that he had seene our companions, and that there was seuen men in the boate; but we not knowing well what they sayd, neither yet beleeuing them, they made other signes vnto vs, [1518] and held vp their seuen fingers and pointed to our scute, thereby shewing that there were so many men in the boate, [1519] and that they had sold them bread, flesh, fish, and other victualls. And while we staid in their lodgie, we saw a small compasse therein, which we knew that they had bought [1520] of our chiefe boatson, [1521] which they likewise acknowledged. Then we vnderstanding them well, askt them how long it was since they saw our boate [1522] and whereabouts it was, [and] they made signes vnto vs that it was the day before. And to conclude, they showed vs great friendship, for the which we thanked them; and so, being glad of the good newes wee had heard we tooke our leaues of them, much reioycing that wee heard of our companions welfare, and specially because they had gotten victuals from the Russians, which was the thing that wee most doubted of, in regard that we knew what small prouision they had with them. Which done, we rowed as hard as we could, to try if we might ouertake them, as being still in doubt that they had not prouision inough, wishing that we had had part of ours: and hauing rowed al that day with great labour along by the land, about midnight we found a fall of fresh water, and then we went on land to fetch some [water], and there also we got some leple leaues. [1523] And as we thought to row forward, we were forced to saile, because the flood was past, [1524] and still wee lookt earnestly out for the point of Candinaes, and the fiue crosses, whereof we had beene instructed by the Russians, but we could not see it.

The 18 of August in the morning, the sunne being east, [in order to gain time] wee puled vp our stone (which we vsed in steed of an anchor, [1525]) and rowed along by the land till the sunne was south, then wee saw a point of land reaching into the sea, and on it certaine signes of crosses, [1526] which as we went neerer vnto wee saw perfectly; and when the sunne was west, wee perceiued that the land reached west and south-west, so that thereby we knew it certainly to be the point of Candinaes, lying at the mouth of the White Sea, which we were to crosse, and had long desired to see it. This point is easily to be knowne, hauing fiue crosses standing vpon it, which are perfectly to be decerned, one the east side in the south-east, and one the other side in the south-west. [1527] And when we thought to saile from thence to the west side of the White Sea towards the coast of Norway, we found that one of our runlets of fresh water was almost leakt out; and for that we had about 40 Dutch [160] miles to saile ouer the sea before we should get any fresh water, we sought meanes first to row on land to get some, but because the waues went so high we durst not do it; and so hauing a good north-east wind (which was not for vs too slack [1528]) we set forward in the name of God, and when the sunne was north-west we past the point, [1529] and all that night and the next day sailed with a good wind, and [in] all that time rowed but while three glasses were run out; [1530] and the next night after ensuing hauing still a good wind, in the morning about the east north-east sunne we saw land one the west side of the White Sea, which we found by the rushing of the sea vpon the land before we saw it. And perceiuing it to be ful of clifts, [1531] and not low sandy ground with same hills [1532] as it is on the east side of the White Sea, we assured our selues [1533] that we were on ye west side of the White Sea, vpon the coast of Lapeland, for the which we thanked God that he had helped vs to saile over the White Sea in thirty houres, it being forty Dutch [160] miles at the least, our course being west with a [nice] north-east wind.

The 20 of August, being not farre from the land, the north-east wind left vs, and then it began to blow stiffe north-west; at which time, seeing we could not make much way by sailing forward, we determined to put in betweene certaine clifts, and when we got close to the land we espied certaine crosses with warders [1534] vpon them, whereby we vnderstood that it was a good way, [1535] and so put into it. And being entred a litle way within it, we saw a great Russian lodgie [1536] lying at an anchor, whereunto we rowed as fast as we could, and there also we saw certaine houses wherein men dwelt. And when we got to the lodgie, we made our selues fast vnto it, [1537] and cast our tent ouer the scute, for as then it began to raine. Then we went on land into the houses that stood vpon the shore, where they showed vs great friendship, leading vs into their stoawes, [1538] and there dried our wet clothes, and then seething some fish, bade vs sit downe and eate somewhat with them. [1539] In those little houses we found thirteene Russians, who euery morning went out [in two boats] to fish in the sea; whereof two of them had charge ouer the rest. They liued very poorely, and ordinarily eate nothing but fish and bread. [1540] At euening, when we prepared our selues to go to our scute againe, they prayed the maister and me to stay with them in their houses, which the maister thanked them for, would not do [and went into the boat], but I stayed with them al that night. Besides those thirteene men, there was two Laplanders more and three women with a child, that liued very poorely of the ouerplus [1541] which the Russians gaue them, as a peece of fish and some fishes heades, which the Russians threw away and they with great thankfulnesse tooke them vp, so that in respect of their pouertie [and ill condition] we thought our selues to bee well furnished, [1542] and yet we had little inough, but as it seemed their ordinary liuing was in that manner. And we were forced to stay there for that the wind being north-west, it was against vs.

The 21 of August it rained most part of the day, but not so much after dinner as before. Then our master brought [1543] good store of fresh fish, which we sod, [1544] and eate our bellies full, which in long time we had not done, and therewith sod some meale and water in steed of bread, whereby we were well comforted. After noone, when the raine began to lessen, we went [at times a little] further into the land and sought for some leple leaues, [1545] and then we saw two men vpon ye hilles, whereupon we said one to the other, hereabouts there must more people dwel, for there came two men towards vs, but we, regarding them not, went back againe to our scute and towards the houses. The two men that were vpon the hilles (being some of our men that were in the [other] boate,) perceauing [also] the Russian lodgie, came downe the hill towards her to buy [1546] some victuales of them; who being come thither vnawares [1547] and hauing no mony about them, they agreed betweene them to put off one of their paire of breeches, (for that as then we ware two or three paire one ouer the other,) to sel them for some victuals. [1548] But when they came downe the hill and were somewhat neerer vnto vs, they espied our scute lying by the lodgie, and we as then beheld them better and knew them; wherewith we reioyced [much on both sides], and shewed each other of our proceedings and how we had sailed to and fro in great necessity and hunger and yet they had been in greater necessitie and danger then we, and gaue God thankes that he had preserued vs aliue and brought vs together againe. And then we eate something together, and dranke of the cleare water, such as runneth along by Collen through the Rein, [1549] and then we agreed that they should come vnto vs, that we might saile together.

The 22 of August the rest of our men [1550] with the boate came unto vs about the east south-east sunne, whereat we much reioyced, and then we prayed the Russians cooke to bake a sacke of meale for vs and to make it bread, paying him for it, which he did. And in the meane time, when the fishermen came with their fishe out of the sea, our maister bought foure cods of them, which we sod and eate. And while we were at meat, the chiefe of the Russians came vnto vs, and perceiuing that we had not much bread, he fetcht a loaf and gave it vs, and although we desired them to sit downe and eate some meat with vs, yet we could by no means get them to graunt thereunto, because it was their fasting day and for yt we had poured butter and fat into our fish; nor we could not get them once to drinke with us, because our cup was somewhat greasie, they were so superstitious touching their fasting and religion. Neither would they lend vs any of their cups to drinke in, least they should likewise be greased. At that time the wind was [constantly] north-west.

The 23 of August the cooke began to knead our meale, and made vs bread thereof; which being don, and the wind and the weather beginning to be somewhat better, we made our selues ready to depart from thence; at which time, when the Russians came from fishing, our maister gaue their chiefe commander a good peece of mony [1551] in regard of the frendship that he had shewed vs, and gaue some what also to the cooke, [1552] for the which they yielded vs great thankes. At which time, the chiefe of the Russians [having before] desired our maister to giue him some gunpowder, which he did, [and he also thanked him much.] And when we were ready to saile from thence, we put a sacke of meale [out of our boat] into the boate, [1553] least we should chance to stray one from the other againe, that they might help themselues therewith. And so about euening, when the sunne was west, we set saile and departed from thence when it began to be high water, and with a north-east wind held our course north-west along by the land.

The 24 of August the wind blew east, and then, the sunne being east, we got to the Seuen Islands, [1554] where we found many fishermen, of whom we enquired after Cool and Kilduin, and they made signes that they lay west from vs, (which we likewise gest to be so.) And withall they shewed vs great frendship, and cast a cod into our scute, but for that we had a good gale of wind [1555] we could not stay to pay them for it, but gaue them great thanks, much wondering at their great courtesy. And so, with a good gale of wind, we arriued before the Seven Islands when the sun was south-west, and past between them and the land, and there found certaine fishermen, that rowed to vs, [1556] and asked vs where our crable (meaning our ship) was, whereunto wee made answer with as much Russian language as we had learned, and said, Crable pro pal [1557] (yt is, our ship is lost), which they vnderstanding said vnto vs, Cool Brabouse crable, [1558] whereby we vnderstood that at Cool there was certaine Neatherland ships, but we made no great account thereof, because our intent was to saile to Ware-house, [1559] fearing least the Russians or great prince of the country would stay vs there. [1560]

The 25 of August, sailing along by the land with a south-east wind, about the south sun we had a sight of Kilduin, at which time we held our course west north-west. And sailing in that manner between Kilduin and the firme land, about the south south-west sunne we got to the west end of Kilduin. And being there [we] lookt [out sharp] if we could see any houses or people therein, and at last we saw certaine Russian lodgies [1561] that lay [hauled up] upon the strand, and there finding a conuenient place for vs to anchor with our scutes while we went to know if any people were to be found, our maister put in with the land, [1562] and there found five or six small houses, wherein the Laplanders dwelt, of whom he [1563] asked if that were Kilduin, whereunto they made answere and shewed vs that it was Kilduin, and said yt at Coola there lay three Brabants crables or ships, whereof two were that day to set saile; which we hearing determined to saile to Ware-house, and about the west south-west sunne put off from thence with a south-east wind. But as we were vnder saile, the wind blew so stiffe [from the south-east] that we durst not keepe the sea in the night time, for that the waues of the sea went so hollow, that we were still in doubt that they would smite the scutes to the ground, [1564] and so tooke our course behind two clifts [1565] towards our land. And when we came there, we found a small house vpon the shore, wherein there was three men and a great dogge, which receiued vs very friendly, asking vs of our affaires and how we got thither; whereunto we made answere and shewed them that we had lost our ship, and that we were come thither to see if we could get a ship that would bring vs into Holland; whereunto they made vs answere, as the other Russians had done, that there was three ships at Coola, whereof two were to set saile from thence that day. Then we asked them if they would goe with one of our men by land to Coola, to looke for a ship wherewith we might get into Holland, and said we would reward them well for their paines; but they excused themselues, and said that they could not go from thence, but they sayd that they would bring vs ouer the hill, where we should finde certaine Laplanders whom they thought would goe with vs, as they did; for the maister and one of our men going with them ouer the hill, found certaine Laplanders there, whereof they got one to go with our man, promising him two royals of eight [1566] for his pains. And so the Laplander going with him, tooke a peece on his necke, [1567] and our man a boate hooke, and about euening they set forward, [1568] the wind as then being east and east north-east.

The 26 of August it was faire weather, the wind south-east, at which time we drew vp both our scutes vpon the land, and tooke all the goods out of them, to make them the lighter. [1569] Which done, we went to the Russians and warmed vs, and there dressed such meates [1570] as we had; and then againe wee began to make two meales a day, when we perceiued that we should euery day find more people, and we drank of their drink which they call quas, [1571] which was made of broken peeces of [mouldy] bread, and it tasted well, for in long time we had drunke nothing else but water. Some of our men went [somewhat] further into the land, and there found blew berries and bramble berries, [1572] which they plucked and eate, and they did us much good, for we found that they [perfectly] healed vs of our loosenesse. [1573] The wind still blew south-east.

The 27 of August it was foule weather with a great storm [out of the] north and north north-west, so that in regard that the strand was low, [1574] and as also for that the spring tide was ready to come on, we drew our scutes a great way vp vpon the land. [And when we had thus drawn them much higher up than we had done before, on account of the high water [1575]], we went [still further upwards] to the Russians, to warme vs by their fire and to dress our meate. Mean time the maister sent one of our men to the sea side to our scutes, to make a fire for vs vpon the strand, that when we came we might finde it ready, and that in the meane time the smoake might be gone. And while [the] one of our men was there, and the other was going thither, [1576] the water draue so high that both our scutes were smitten into the water and in great danger to be cast away; for in the scute there was but two men and three in the boate, who with much labour and paine could hardly keep the scutes from being broken vpon the strand. [1577] Which we seeing, were in great doubt, [1578] and yet could not help them, yet God be thanked he had then brought vs so farre that neuerthelesse we could haue gotten home, although we should have lost our scutes, as after it was seene. That day and all night it rained sore, whereby we indured great trouble and miserie, being throughly wet, and could neither couer nor defend our selues from it; and yet they [who were] in the scutes indured much more, being forced to bee in that weather, and still in daunger to bee cast vpon the shore. [1579]

The 28 of August it was indifferent good weather, and then we drew the scutes vpon the land againe, that we might take the rest of the goods out of them, [in order to avoid the like danger in which the boats had been,] because the wind still blew hard north and north north-west. And hauing drawne the scutes vp, we spread our sailes vpon them to shelter vs vnder them, for it was still mistie and rainie weather, much desiring to heare some newes of our man that was gone to Coola with the Lapelander, to know if there were any shipping at Coola to bring vs into Holland. And while we laie there we went [daily] into the land and fetcht some blew berries and bramble berries [1580] to eate, which did vs much good.

The 29 of August it was indifferent faire weather, and we were still in good hope [1581] to heare some good newes from Coola, and alwaies looked vp towards the hill to see if our man and the Lapelander came; but seeing they came not [1582] we went to the Russians againe, and there drest our meate [at their fire], and then ment [1583] to goe to our scutes to lodge in them all night. In the meane time we spied the Laplander [upon the hill] comming alone without our man, whereat we wondred and were some what in doubt; [1584] but when he came vnto vs, he shewed vs a letter that was written vnto our maister, which he opened before vs, the contents thereof being that he that had written the letter wondred much at our arriuall in that place, and that long since he verily thought that we had beene all cast away, [1585] being exceeding glad of our happy fortune, [1586] and how that he would presently come vnto vs with victuales and all other necessaries to succour vs withall. We being in no small admiration who it might be that shewed vs so great fauour and friendship, could not imagine what he was, for it appeared by the letter that he knew vs well. And although the letter was subscribed “by me John Cornelison Rip,” [1587] yet we could not be perswaded that it was the same John Cornelison, who the yeere before had beene set out in the other ship [at the same time] with vs, and left vs about the Beare Iland. [1588] For those goode newes we paid the Lapelander his hier, [1589] and beside that gaue him hoase, breeches and other furniture, [1590] so that he was apparelled like a Hollander; for as then we thought our selues to be wholy out of danger, [1591] and so being of good comfort, we laid vs downe to rest. Here I cannot chuse but shew you how fast the Lapelander went: for when hee went to Coola, as our companion told vs, they were two dayes and two nights on the way, and yet went a pace, and when he came backe againe he was but a day and a night comming to vs, which was wonderful, it being but halfe ye time, so that we said, and verily thought, that he was halfe a coniurer; [1592] and he brought vs a partridge, which he had killed by the way as he went.