Chapter II: Part 2
Take of good French Brandy, a gallon; of the best Virgin Honey and Coriander-seeds, each a pound; Cloves, an ounce and half; Nutmegs, an ounce; Gum Benjamin and Storax, of each an ounce; Vanilloes No. 4; the Yellow Rind of three large Lemons: bruise the Spices and Benjamin, cut the Vanilloes into small pieces, put all into a cucurbit, and pour the Brandy on them. After they have digested forty-eight hours, distil off the Spirit in a retort with a gentle heat.
To a gallon of this water, add of Damask Rose-water and Orange Flower-water, of each a pint and a half; Musk and Ambergrise, of each five grains; first grind the Musk and Ambergrise with some of the water, and afterwards put all into a large matrass, shake them well together, and let them circulate three days and nights in a gentle heat. Then, letting the water cool, filtre and keep it for use, in a bottle well stopped.
It is an antiparalytic, smooths the skin, and gives one of the most agreeable scents imaginable. Forty or sixty drops put into a pint of clear water, are sufficient to wash the hands and face.
62. _Sweet-scented Water._
Take Orange Flower-water and Rose-water, of each an equal quantity; put them into a large wide-mouthed glass, and strew upon the surface gently as much Jasmine Flowers as will cover it; then tie the mouth of the glass so carefully that the Flowers be not shook down to the bottom. Repeat the process, letting each quantity of the Flowers remain five or six days, until the water is strongly scented with them. Then dissolve Ambergrise and Musk, of each a scruple, in a few ounces of the water, which filtre and put to the rest.
This water may also be made by putting the whole into a retort with a sufficient quantity of Jasmine Flowers, and drawing it off in a vapour bath into a receiver well luted.
This is an excellent perfume, and taken inwardly, is of service in some nervous cases and languors.
63. _German sweet-scented Water._
Begin with infusing for eight days in two quarts of Vinegar, two handfuls of Lavender Flowers, as many Provence Roses picked from the stalks, Wild Roses, and Elder Flowers. While they stand in infusion prepare a simple odoriferous water as follows: Put into a glass body the Yellow Rind of three Lemons, sweet Marjoram, Lilies of the Valley and Lavender Flowers, of each two handfuls; pour on them a pint of double distilled Rose-water, and a quart of Spring-water. Lute on a bolt-head, place the alembic in a sand heat, fix on a receiver, and leave matters in this state two days, then light a fire under it and distil quick. When you have drawn off a quart, stop your distillation, and keep this simple odoriferous water for the following use.
Take wild Thyme, sweet Marjoram, sweet Basil, and Thyme, of each a handful; Florentine Orrice and Cinnamon, of each half an ounce; Cloves, Mace, purified Storax, and Benjamin, of each three drachms; Labdanum, two drachms; Aspalathum, half an ounce; Socotrine Aloes, half a drachm; put all these ingredients, thoroughly bruised, into a stone jar, and add to them the Vinegar infusion, the distilled odoriferous water, and a quart of Frontiniac, Mountain, or Cowslip Wine. Stir them well together, and leave the whole to digest for fifteen days, at the expiration of which time, empty the infusion into a glass body, large enough to contain a sixth part more liquor; lute on the head, place it in a sand heat, and begin your distillation with a very gentle fire, increasing it gradually. It sometimes happens that the phlegm of the Vinegar comes over the helm first; when that is the case, set it aside as useless. As soon as the Spirit begins to rise, which you will directly perceive by its aromatic flavour, fix a receiver on the beak of the alembic, and distil off about three pints. Keep this by itself as the most spirituous part of your preparation; and continue to draw off the remainder as long as it runs clear.
The German sweet-scented Water is penetrating and incisive, admirably revives the vital spirits, removes headaches, comforts the heart, is excellent against unwholesome air, and of course a preservative from contagion.
64. _Imperial Water._
Take five quarts of Brandy, in which dissolve an ounce of Frankincense, Mastic, Benjamin, and Gum Arabic; add half an ounce of Cloves and Nutmegs; an ounce and a half of Pine-nut Kernels, and sweet Almonds; with three grains of Musk. Bruise these ingredients in a marble mortar, distil in a vapour bath, and keep the water that is drawn off in a glass bottle, close stopped.
This water takes away wrinkles, and renders the skin extremely delicate; it also whitens the Teeth, and abates the tooth-ache, sweetens the breath, and strengthens the gums. Foreign ladies prize it highly.
65. _Odoriferous Water._
Take sweet Basil, Mint, sweet Marjoram, Florentine Orrice-root, Hyssop, Balm, Savory, Lavender, and Rosemary, of each a handful; Cloves, Cinnamon, and Nutmegs, of each half an ounce; three or four Lemons, cut in thick slices; infuse them three days in a good quantity of Rose-water; distil in a water bath with a gentle fire, and add to the distilled water a scruple of Musk.
66. _Or,_
Take sweet Marjoram, Thyme, Lavender, Rosemary, Pennyroyal-buds, red Roses, Violet-flowers, Clove-july-flowers, Savory, and Orange-peels, of each equal parts; infuse in White Wine till they entirely sink to the bottom of the Wine; then distil in an alembic, two or three times. Keep the Water in bottles well corked; and preserve the residuum as a perfume.
67. _The Ladies Water._
Take two handfuls and a half of Red Roses; Rosemary Flowers, Lavender, and Spikenard, of each a handful; Thyme, Chamomile Flowers, Sage of Virtue, Pennyroyal, and Marjoram, of each a handful; infuse in White Wine twenty-four hours; then put the whole into an alembic; sprinkle it with good White Wine, and throw on it a powder, composed of an ounce and a half of choice Cloves, Gum Benjamin, and Storax, strained, each two drachms. The distilled Water is to be kept in a bottle well stopped.
68. _A beautifying Wash._
Take equal parts of White Tansey, and Rhubarb Water, and to every half pint add two drachms of Sal Ammoniac.
This fluid is applied with a feather or hair pencil, three or four times a day, to pimples or tetters, on any part of the body.
69. _A Cosmetic Water._
Wash the face with the tears that issue from the Vine, during the months of May and June.
70. _An Excellent Cosmetic._
Pimpernel Water is so sovereign a beautifier of the complexion, that it ought always to have a place on a Lady's toilet.
71. _Venice Water, highly esteemed._
In the month of May, take two quarts of Cow's Milk, which pour into a bottle with eight Lemons and four Oranges, sliced; add an ounce of Sugar Candy, and half an ounce of Borax; distil in a water bath or sand heat.
This water is counterfeited at Bagdat in Persia, in the following manner. Take twelve Lemons peeled and sliced, twelve new-laid Eggs, six Sheeps Trotters, four ounces of Sugar Candy, a large slice of Melon, and another of Pompion, with two drachms of Borax; distil in a large glass alembic with a leaden head.
72. _A Balsamic Water._
Take a pound of Venice Turpentine; Oil of Bays, Galbanum, Gum Arabic, Ivy Gum, Frankincense, Myrrh, Hepatic Aloes, Aloes-wood, Galangals, Cloves, Comfrey, Cinnamon, Nutmegs, Zedoary, Ginger, and White Dittany, each three ounces; Borax, four ounces; Musk, a drachm; Ambergrise, a scruple; after bruising such of the ingredients as are capable of being powdered, infuse the whole in six quarts of Brandy; and distil it. The Balsamic Water drawn off will be good to strengthen the limbs, and cause that beauty and vigour which so much delights the eye.
73. _Angelic Water, of a most agreeable Scent._
Put into a large alembic the following ingredients, Benjamin, four ounces; Storax, two ounces; Yellow Sanders, an ounce; Cloves, two drachms; two or three bits of Florentine Orrice, half the Peel of a Lemon, two Nutmegs, half an ounce of Cinnamon, two quarts of Rose-water, a pint of Orange Flower-water, and a pint of Magisterial Balm-water. Put the whole into an alembic well luted; distil in a water bath; and what you draw off will prove an exquisite Angelic Water.
74. _Nosegay or Toilet Water._
Take Honey-water, an ounce; Eau sans Pareille, two ounces; Jasmine-water, not quite five drachms; Clove-water, and Violet-water, of each half an ounce; Cyprus-water, sweet Calamus-water, and Lavender-water, of each two drachms; Spirit of Neroli or Oranges ten drops; mix all these Waters together, and keep the mixture in a vial close corked.
This water has a delightful scent; but its use is only for the toilet.
75. _Spirit of Guaiacum._
Spirit of Guaiacum is prepared by infusing two ounces of Guaiacum Shavings in a quart of Brandy, ten or twelve days, shaking the vessel now and then. The Tincture is then filtred through paper, and used to gargle the mouth in the same manner as the Vulnerary-water.
76. _The Divine Cordial._
To make this, take, in the beginning of the month of March, two ounces of the Roots of the true Acorus, Betony, Florentine Orrice-roots, Cyprus, Gentian, and sweet Scabious; an ounce of Cinnamon, and as much Yellow Sanders; two drachms of Mace; an ounce of Juniper-berries; and six drachms of Coriander-seeds; beat these ingredients, in a mortar, to a coarse powder, and add thereto the outer Peel of six fine China Oranges; put them all into a large vessel, with a gallon and a half of Spirit of Wine; shake them well, and then cork the vessel tight till the season for Flowers. When these are in full vigour, add half a handful of the following: viz. Violets, Hyacinths, Jonquils, Wall Flowers, Red, Damask, White, and Musk Roses, Clove-july-flowers, Orange Flowers, Jasmine, Tuberoses, Rosemary, Sage, Thyme, Lavender, sweet Marjoram, Broom, Elder, St. John's-wort, Marigold, Chamomile, Lilies of the Valley, Narcissuses, Honeysuckle, Borage, and Bugloss.
Three seasons are required to procure all these Flowers in perfection; Spring, Summer, and Autumn. Every time you gather any of these Flowers, add them immediately to the infusion, mixing them thoroughly with the other ingredients; and three days after you have put in the last Flowers, put the whole into a glass cucurbit, lute on the head carefully, place it in a water bath over a slow fire, keep the receiver cool, and draw off five quarts of Spirit, which will prove of a rare quality. As a medicine, it is far more efficacious than Balm-water; and for its fine scent, one of the best perfumes.
77. _Compound Cyprus Water._
Take a gallon of Spirit of Jasmine, infuse in it half an ounce of Florentine Orrice grossly powdered, a quarter of an ounce of bruised Angelica-seeds, three scraped Nutmegs, three ounces of White Musk-roses bruised, a drachm of Spirit of Orange, and fifteen drops of Essence of Ambergrise. If it is not the season for Roses, when you make this Water, put instead of them a pint of Rose-water scented with Musk, and if that cannot be procured, use common Rose-water; draw off the Spirit in a water bath, and in a stream like a thread; taking care to place the receiver in cold water, that the Spirit may cool as fast as possible and thereby the better preserve its perfume.
78. _Imperial Water._
Put into a gallon of Brandy, a quarter of a pound of picked Violets, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, a quarter of a pound of Double Jonquils, two ounces of picked Orange Flowers, two Ounces of White Musk-roses, three ounces of Tuberoses, a drachm of Mace, half a drachm of Cloves, an ounce of Quintessence of Bergamot, and an ounce of Quintessence of Oranges. All the Flowers must be gathered in their proper season. Observe to put into the Brandy at the same time with the Violets, the Orrice, Mace, and Cloves, in gross powder, then add the different Flowers as they come in season, remembering not to add the quintessences, till after the Tuberoses, which are the last Flower. Every time you put in a fresh Flower, shake the vessel, and cork it very tight. Eight days after the Tuberoses have been infused, put the whole into a glass body, lute on the head carefully, and place under the receiver an earthen vessel filled with cold water, that the Spirit may cool as fast as it comes over, by which means its scent will be the better preserved. You may draw off two quarts of a rectified Spirit, that will give perfect satisfaction to the most delicate judge.
79. _All Flower Water._
Pour into a large vessel five quarts of strong Spirit of Wine, and infuse in it the following Flowers, as they come in season: Violets, Hyacinths, and Wall Flowers, of each a quarter of a pound; single and double Jonquils, of each two ounces; a quarter of a pound of Lilies of the Valley, and the same quantity of Spanish Jasmine; half an ounce of Rosemary Flowers; an ounce of Elder Flowers; two ounces of Wild, Damask, and White Roses, bruised; three ounces of Orange Flowers; a quarter of a pound of Clove-july-flowers, Syringo Blossoms, Tuberoses, and Tops of Mint in Flower; and thirty drops of Quintessence of Musk-seed. The latter, however, need not be added till the time of distillation, which must not be till three days after the last Flowers have been infused. Perform the operation in a water bath, and having carefully luted the head and receiver, which must be placed in a tub of cold water, to preserve the scent, draw off about three quarts and a pint with a moderate fire, then change the receiver, fix on another, and draw off another pint, which, though of an inferior quality, is well worth preserving.
80. _A curious Water, known by the Name of the Spring Nosegay._
Take six ounces of Hyacinths, a quarter of a pound of picked Violets, the same quantity of Wall Flowers picked, and Jonquils; an ounce of Florentine Orrice bruised; half an ounce of Mace grossly powdered; and two ounces of Quintessense of Orange. Put the whole (the Jonquils, Wall Flowers, and Lilies of the Valley excepted) about the end of March, into a glass body, with a gallon of strong Spirit of Wine; bruise the Hyacinths, Violets, Orrice, and Mace; and towards the end of April, add the Jonquils, when in their perfection, that is to say, when full blown. A few days after, put in the Wall Flowers, the Petals only; then add the Lilies of the Valley, carefully picked, and shake all the ingredients well: Eight days after having put in this last Flower, empty the infusion into an alembic, lute on a head and receiver, which must be placed in cold water, and distil in a water bath, with a gentle fire. From the above quantity three quarts of excellent Spirit may be drawn off, that justly deserves the appellation of the Spring Nosegay.
81. _A Cosmetic Water, of great Use to prevent Pits after the Small-Pox._
Dissolve an ounce and a half of Salt in a pint of Mint-water; boil them together, and skim the Liquor. This is a very useful Wash for the face after the Small-Pox, in order to clear away the scabs, allay the itching, and remove the redness.
82. _A Cooling Wash._
Infuse in a sufficient quantity of clear Water, some Bran, Yolks of Eggs, and a grain or two of Ambergrise, for three or four hours; then distil the Water, which will prove an excellent Cosmetic, and clear the skin surprisingly. It is of service to keep it in the sun eight or ten days, in a bottle well corked.
The distilled Waters of Melons, Bean Flowers, the Wild-Vine, green or unripe Barley, and the Water that is found in vesicles on the leaves of the elm-tree, may also be used for the same intention.
83. _An excellent Water to clear the Skin, and take away Pimple_s.
Take two quarts of Water, in which a quantity of Horse-beans has been boiled till quite soft; put it into an alembic, and add two handfuls of Pimpernel, the same quantity of White Tansy, a pound of Veal minced small, six new-laid Eggs, and a pint of White-Wine Vinegar; distil this mixture in a water-bath, and it will afford an excellent Lotion to remove all eruptions on the face, if washed with it every night and morning.
84. _Another._
Knead a Loaf with three pounds of Wheaten Flour, a pound of Bean Flour, and Goats Milk, with Mild Yeast or Leaven. Bake it in an oven, scoop out the crumb, and soak it thoroughly in new Goats Milk and six Whites of Eggs; add an ounce of calcined Egg-shells. Mix all well together, and distil in a sand heat. You will obtain an excellent cosmetic water, by washing with which every day, the face will become smooth and clear.
85. _Venetian Water to clear a Sun-burnt Complexion._
Take a pint of Cow's Milk, or, in the month of May, a pint of the Water that distils from the Vine when wounded, eight Lemons and four Seville Oranges cut in thin slices, two ounces of Sugar Candy, half an ounce of Borax in fine powder, and four Narcissus Roots beaten to a paste; distil these ingredients in a vapour-bath. Rectify the distilled Liquor by the same method, and keep it in a bottle closely corked.
86. _A Water for Pimples in the Face._
Boil together a handful of the herbs Patience, and Pimpernel in Water; and wash yourself every day with the decoction.
87. _A Fluid to clear a tanned Skin._
Take unripe Grapes, soak them in Water, sprinkle them with Alum and Salt, then Wrap them up in paper, and roast them in hot ashes; squeeze out the Juice, and wash the face with it every morning, it will soon remove the Tan.
88. _A Fluid to whiten the Skin._
Take equal parts of the Roots of Centaury and the White Vine, a pint of Cow's Milk, and the crumb of a Wheaten Loaf; distil in a glass alembic. The distilled Water, for use, must be mixed with an equal quantity of Hungary Water: it then admirably clears the complexion.
The distilled Waters of Fennel, and White Lilies, with a little Gum Mastic, will produce the same effect.
89. _A Beautifying Wash._
Put into a cucurbit five pints of French Brandy; add to it a pound and a half of Crumb of Bread, three ounces of Plum-tree-gum, two ounces of Litharge of Silver in fine powder, and four ounces of sweet Almonds. The ingredients are to be beat together into a paste, and left to digest in the Spirit eight days; then distil in a vapour-bath, and wash the face and hands with the water thus obtained. It must be suffered to dry on the skin without being wiped off, and the complexion will presently become clear and glossy.
90. _A distilled Water that tinges the Cheeks a beautiful Carnation Hue._
Take two quarts of White Wine Vinegar, three ounces of Isinglass, two ounces of bruised Nutmegs, and six ounces of Honey; distil with a gentle fire, and add to the distilled Water a small quantity of Red Sanders, in order to colour it. Before the Tincture is used, a Lady should wash herself with Elder-flower Water, and then the cheeks will become of a fine lively vermillion, that cannot be distinguished from the natural bloom of youth.
91. _A Cosmetic Water._
Take three Aron Roots minced small, three Melons of a middling size, three Cucumbers, four new laid Eggs, a slice of a Pumkin, two Lemons, a pint of Whey, a gallon of Rose-water, a quart of Water-lily-water, a pint of Plantain, as much White Tansy-water, and half an ounce of Borax. Distil the whole together in a vapour-bath.
92. _A Water, christened, The Fountain of Youth._
Take an ounce of Sulphur Vivum; Olibanum and Myrrh, each two ounces; six drachms of Amber; a quart of Rose-water; distil the whole in a vapour-bath, and wash yourself with the Water every night going to rest: the next morning wash yourself with weak Barley-water, and your complexion will have a youthful air.
It is asserted also that the distilled Water of green Pine-apples takes away wrinkles, and gives the complexion an air of youth.
93. _A Water to preserve the Complexion._
Mix together Water-lily Water, Bean-flower Water, Melon Water, Cucumber Water, and Lemon Juice, of each an ounce; to which add, of Bryony, Wild Succory, White Lilies, Borrage and Bean Flowers, each a handful. Take seven or eight White Pigeons, pick them, and cut off their heads and pinions, mince the rest of them small, and put them into an alembic with the other ingredients. To these add four ounces of Sugar Candy in powder, as much Camphor, and the Crumb of three small Wheaten Loaves, each weighing about half a pound; digest the whole eighteen or twenty days in an alembic, then distil, and keep the Water that is drawn off in proper vessels for use. Before washing with it, carefully observe to cleanse the face with the following composition.
Take a quarter of a pound of the Crumb of Rye Bread hot from the oven, the Whites of four new laid Eggs, and a pint of White Wine Vinegar; beat the whole well together, and strain through a linen rag. The use of these two preparations perfectly cleanses and clears the skin, preserves its freshness, and prevents wrinkles.
94. _A Water that gives a Gloss to the Skin._
Take a handful of Bean, Elder, and Bugloss Flowers, a small Pigeon clean drawn, the Juice of two Lemons, four ounces of Salt, and five ounces of Camphor; distil them in a vapour-bath; add to the distilled Water a few grains of Musk, and expose it to the sun for the space of a month, observing to take the vessel within doors every night. The way to use this Water, is to dip the corner of a fine napkin in it, and gently rub the face.
95. _A Preservative from Tanning._
Infuse in clean Water for three days a pound of Lupines, then take them out, and boil them in a copper vessel with five quarts of fresh Water. When the Lupines are boiled tender, and the Water grows rather ropy, press out the Liquor, and keep it for use. Whenever you are under a necessity of exposing yourself to the sun, wash the face and neck with this preparation.
The Oil of unripe Olives, in which a small quantity of Gum Mastic has been dissolved, possesses the same virtue.
96. _To remove Freckles._
Take Houseleek, and Celandine, of each an equal quantity; distil in a sand heat, and wash with the distilled Water.
97. _Or,_
Apply the Juice of Onions to the part affected.
98. _Or,_
Boil Ivy Leaves in Wine, and foment the face with the decoction.
99. _A Water to prevent Freckles, or Blotches in the Face._
Take Wild Cucumber-roots and Narcissus-roots, of each an equal quantity; dry them in the shade, and reduce them to a very fine powder, putting them afterwards into strong French Brandy, with which wash the face, till it begins to itch; and then wash it with cold water. This method must be repeated every day till a perfect cure is obtained, which will soon happen, for this water has a slight caustic property, and of course must remove all spots on the skin.
100. _Or,_
Take a handful of fresh Wood-ashes, boil them in a pint of clear Water, till one half is wasted away, then pour off the Liquor as long as it runs clear; boil it again a little while, and filter it through coarse paper.
101. _A Water to improve the Complexion._
Take Snakeweed-roots and Narcissus-roots, of each an equal quantity; a pint of Cow's Milk, and the Crumb of a Wheaten Loaf; distil these ingredients in a glass alembic. This Water should be mixed with an equal quantity of Hungary-water.
102. _Or,_
Take Chick Peas, French Beans, and Garden Beans, of each four ounces; peel off their skins, powder them, and infuse in a quart of White Wine; add the Gall of an Ox, and the Whites of fifteen new laid Eggs. Mix the ingredients thoroughly, distil in a glass alembic with a sand heat; and wash the face with the distilled Water, as occasion requires.
103. _A Cosmetic Water._
Take a pound and a half of fine Wheaten Bread, four ounces of Peach Kernels, the same quantity of the four Cold Seeds, viz. Gourd-seed, Cucumber-seed, Melon-seed, and Lettuce-seed; the Whites of twelve new laid Eggs, the Juice of four Lemons, three ounces of Sugar Candy, a gallon of Goat's Milk; mix the whole together, and distil in a vapour-bath. To every two quarts of the distilled Water, add a quarter of a pint of Spirit of Cherries.
104. _Or,_
Take six Aron Roots minced small, six ounces of Bran, four ounces and a half of Myrrh in powder, three pints of Milk, and the same quantity of Wine; distil according to the rules of art; and to the distilled Water add a small bit of Alum.
105. _A simple Balsamic Water, which removes Wrinkles._
Take Barley-water, strained through a piece of fine linen cloth, and drop into it a few drops of Balm of Gilead; shake the bottle for several hours, until the Balsam is entirely incorporated with the Water, which is known by the turbid milky appearance of the Mixture. This greatly improves the complexion, and preserves the bloom of youth. If used only once a day, it takes away wrinkles, and gives the skin a surprising lustre. Before this fluid is used, the face should be washed clean with rain water.
106. _A Water to change the Eye-brows black._
First wash your eyebrows with a decoction of Gall Nuts; then wet them with a pencil or little brush dipped in a solution of Green Vitriol, in which a little Gum Arabic has been dissolved, and when dry, they will appear of a beautiful black colour.
107. _To remove Worms in the Face._
Make use of the distilled Waters of the Whites of Eggs, Bean Flowers, Water Lilies, White Lilies, Melon Seeds, Iris Roots, Solomon's Seal, White Roses, or crumb of Wheaten Bread, either mixed together, or separately, with the addition of the White of a new-laid Egg.
108. _The Duchess de la Vrilliere's Mouth-Water._
Take Cinnamon, two ounces; Cloves, six drachms; Water Cresses, six ounces; fresh Lemon Peel, an ounce and a half; Red Rose Leaves, an ounce; Scurvy Grass, half a pound; Spirit of Wine, three pints. Bruise the Spices, cut the Water Cresses and Scurvy Grass small, and macerate the whole in Spirit of Wine, in a bottle well corked, during twenty-four hours; then distil to dryness in a vapour-bath, and afterwards rectify the distilled Water, by repeating the same process.
This Water strengthens the gums, prevents the scurvy, and cures aphthæ, or little ulcerations in the mouth. It is used to gargle the mouth with, either by itself, or diluted with water, as occasion may require.
109. _Another Water for the Teeth, called Spirituous Vulnerary Water._
For this intention are commonly used Spirituous Waters, that are no ways disagreeable; waters proper to strengthen and fortify the gums, as Spirituous Vulnerary Water tinctured with Cochineal, or Seed Lac; Guaiacum Water, or the Duchess de la Vrilliere's Water above described.
To tinge Vulnerary Water, put any quantity into a glass matrass, and infuse in it some bruised Cochineal; then filter the Vulnerary Water, and use it to gargle the mouth, after which the teeth are to be cleaned with Tooth Powder. This, when found too strong, may be lowered by the addition of Spring Water.
110. _Receipt to make Vulnerary Water._
Take fresh gathered Leaves of Sage, Angelica, Wormwood, Savory, Fennel, and spiked Mint, of each four ounces; Leaves of Hyssop, Balm, Sweet Basil, Rue, Thyme, Marjoram, Rosemary, Origanum, Calamint, and Wild Thyme, fresh gathered, of each four ounces; the same quantity of Lavender Flowers, and a gallon of rectified Spirit of Wine.
Cut the Herbs small, infuse them ten or twelve hours in Spirit of Wine, and then distil in a vapour-bath. Preserve the Spirit drawn off, in a bottle well corked.
111. _A Water for the Gums._
Take of the best Cinnamon, an ounce; Cloves, three drachms; the Yellow Peel of two Lemons; Red Rose Leaves, half an ounce; Water Cresses, half a pound; Scurvy Grass, four ounces; rectified Spirit of Wine, three gallons: bruise the Spices, and infuse the whole a sufficient time in the Spirit in a glass vessel; then distil off the Spirit for use, in a vapour-bath.
112. _Another, prepared by Infusion._
Take two drachms of Cinnamon, finely powdered; half a drachm of Cloves, in fine powder; and half an ounce of Roch Alum; pour on them three gallons of boiling Water; when cold, add six ounces of Plantain Water, half an ounce of Orange-flower Water, a quarter of an ounce of Essence of Lemons, and a gill and a half of rectified Spirit of Wine; let the whole stand together in digestion four and twenty hours, then filter through paper, and reserve the clear water for use.
113. _Or,_
Take Mace, Cinnamon, Cloves, Pellitory of Spain, and Terra Sigillata, or Sealed Earth, of each half an ounce; beat the whole together in a mortar, and infuse it a month in a quart of Spirit of Wine. Strain off the Spirit, and add eight ounces of Spirit of Scurvy Grass. Drop six or seven drops in a glass of very clear Water, and rince the mouth; afterwards rubbing the gums with conserve of Hips acidulated with five or six drops of Spirit of Vitriol.
114. _Another Water for the Gums._
Take of the best Cinnamon, an ounce; Cloves, three drachms; the Peel of two Lemons; half an ounce of Red Rose Leaves; half a pound of Water Cresses, four ounces of Scurvy Grass, and three gallons of rectified Spirit of Wine. Bruise the Spices, and let the whole stand in digestion in a glass vessel twenty-four hours; then distil in a vapour-bath.
115. _A simple Depilatory._
Oil of Walnuts frequently rubbed on a child's forehead, will prevent the hair from growing on that part.
116. _Prepared Sponges for the Face._
Steep in Water some time the finest and thinnest Sponges you can pick out; wash them well, dry them, and soak them in Brandy a whole day; then squeeze the Brandy out, and dry them again. Lastly, dip them in Orange-flower Water, and let them remain in it eleven or twelve hours. When squeezed, and thoroughly dried, they are fit for use.
117. _Spirit of Roses._
To make the inflammable Spirit of Roses, take twenty pounds of Damask Roses, beat them to a Paste, in a marble mortar; put this Paste, layer by layer, with sea salt, into a large stone jar, or two jars, if one is not large enough to contain the whole quantity; that is to say, sprinkle every layer of the Paste about half an inch thick with Salt; and press the layers of Roses as close together as possible. Cork the jar with a waxed cork, cover the upper-most end of the cork, and the edges of the mouth of the jar, with wax also, and place it six weeks, or two months, in a vault, or some other cool place. At the expiration of this period, open the jar; if it exhales a strong vinous smell, the fermentation has arrived at its proper height; but if you do not perceive such an odour, throw into the jar a little Yeast, and stop it close in the same manner as before. A strong fermentation having been excited, take five or six pounds of your fermented Rose Paste, put it into a common cucurbit, and distil it with a very gentle fire in a vapour-bath. When you have drawn off as much water as you can, unlute the alembic; throw away what remains in the cucurbit, take five or six pounds more of the fermented Paste of Roses, and put it into the cucurbit, with the Water already drawn; distil in a vapour-bath with such a degree of fire, as will cause the distilled Water to run off in a middling sized stream. When you can draw off no more, empty the cucurbit, fill it again with fresh fermented Paste of Roses, and pour on it all the distilled Water that the preceding distillations have produced. Distil as before; and repeat these operations, till you have used all your fermented Paste of Roses. Every time you open the jar, be careful to cork it close, otherwise the most spirituous particles will evaporate. After the last distillation, you will have obtained a very fine scented Water, but not very spirituous, because loaded with a considerable quantity of phlegm; and it must therefore be rectified.
For this purpose make choice of a very long necked glass matrass of a reasonable size, fill it about three parts full with your unrectified Spirit of Roses; fit on a bolt-head, and receiver; lute the joints carefully, and distil in a vapour-bath with a very slow fire. When you have drawn off about a tenth part of what was put into the matrass, let the vessel cool, and set apart the Spirit that is found in the receiver. What remains in the matrass must not be thrown away as useless, for it is a Rose-water far superior to what is prepared according to the usual method.
After the first rectification of a part of the Spirit, repeat the same operation with another part, till the whole is rectified, and then rectify them all together once more. After this last operation, you will obtain a highly penetrating and inflammable Spirit of Roses. The phlegmatic part that remains in the matrass may be added to that procured from the preceding rectifications, and the whole kept for use in a cellar or other cool place in a bottle, well corked.
The scent of inflammable Spirit of Roses is extremely sweet; if only two drops of it are mixed with a glass of Water, they impart to the Water so high a perfume, that it exceeds the very best Rose-water.
118. _Inflammable Spirits of all Kinds of Flowers._
To distil an inflammable Spirit from Flowers of all kinds, the preceding method must be used; as also to procure one from all kinds of vegetables. Only observe that in plants, and dried flowers, as Thyme, Betony, Mint, Stechas, Violets, and Jasmine, the Seeds must be bruised with the Flowers and Roots; as they also must with the Flowers of the Tuberose Lily, Angelica, Iris; in odoriferous Fruits, as Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, &c. add the Rind of those Fruits to the Flowers; and to the Flowers of Elder, Juniper, Lily of the Valley, and Acacia, &c. add the Berries well moistened; whether green or dry is of no signification.
ESSENCES.
119. _Method of extracting Essences from Flowers._
Procure a wooden box lined with tin, that the wood may not communicate any disagreeable flavour to the Flowers, nor imbibe the Essence. Make several straining frames to fit the Box, each about two inches thick, and drive in them a number of hooks, on which fix a piece of callicoe stretched tight. The utmost care is requisite, to have the straining cloths perfectly clean and dry before they are used.
After having caused the cloths to imbibe as much Oil of Ben as possible, squeeze them a little, then stretch and fix them on the hooks of the frames; put one frame thus completed at the bottom of the box, and upon its cloth strow equally those flowers, the essence of which you intend to extract; cover them with another frame, on the cloth of which you are to strow more flowers, and continue to act in the same manner till the box is quite filled. The frames being each about two inches thick, the flowers undergo very little pressure, though they lye between the cloths. At the expiration of twelve hours, apply fresh flowers in the same manner, and continue so to do for some days. When you think the scent powerful enough, take the cloths from the frames, fold them in four, roll them up, and tie them tight with a piece of whip-cord, to prevent their stretching out too much, then put them into a press, and squeeze out the oil. The press must be lined with tin, that the wood may not imbibe any part of the oil. Place underneath a very clean earthen or glass vessel to receive the essence, which is to be kept in bottles nicely corked.
The essence of one kind of flower only, can be made in a box at the same time, for the scent of one would impair that of another. For the same reason, the cloths that have been used to extract the essence of any particular flower, cannot be used to extract the essence of another, till washed clean in a strong lye, and thoroughly dried in the open air. This method is of great use to obtain the scent of flowers which afford no Essential Oil by distillation, such as Tuberoses, Jasmine, and several others.
120. _Or,_
Take any flowers you please, and put them in a large jar, layer by layer, mixed with Salt, as directed for inflammable Spirit of Roses, till the jar is quite full; then cork it tight, and let it stand in a cellar, or some other cool place, for forty days; at the expiration of which time, empty the whole into a sieve, or straining cloth, stretched over the mouth of a glazed earthen or stone pan, to receive the essence that drains from the flowers upon squeezing them gently. Afterwards put the essence into a glass bottle, which must not be filled above two thirds; cork it tight, and expose it to the heat of the sun in fine weather, five and twenty or thirty days, to purify the essence, a single drop of which will be capable of scenting a quart of Water or any other Liquid.
121. _Essence of Ambergrise._
Take of Ambergrise a quarter of an ounce; the same quantity of Sugar Candy; Musk, half a drachm; and Civet, two grains; rub them together, and put the mixture into a Phial: pour upon it a quarter of a pint of tartarised Spirit of Wine, stop close the Phial, which set in a gentle sand heat for four or five days, and then decant the clear Tincture for use. This makes the best of perfumes; the least touch of it leaves its scent upon any thing a great time; and in constitutions where such sweets are not offensive to the head, nothing can be a more immediate Cordial.
122. _A Remedy for St. Anthony's Fire or Erysipelatous Eruptions on the Face._
Take Narcissus Roots, an ounce; fresh Nettle-seeds, half an ounce; beat them together into a soft Paste with a sufficient quantity of White Wine Vinegar, and anoint the eruptions therewith every night; or, bathe the part affected with the Juice of Cresses.
FLOWERS.
123. _Manner of drying Flowers, so as to preserve their natural Colours._
Take fine White Sand, wash it repeatedly, till it contains not the least earth or salt, then dry it for use. When thoroughly dry, fill a glass or stone jar half full of Sand, in which stick the Flowers in their natural situation, and afterwards cover them gently with the same, about the eighth part of an inch above the Flower. Place the glass in the sun, or, if in winter-time, in a room where a constant fire is kept, till the Flower is perfectly dried. Then remove the Sand with the utmost precaution, and clean the Leaves with a feather brush. Particular Flowers lose in some measure their natural lively colours, but this may be helped by the assistance of art.
Roses and other Flowers of a delicate colour, recover their natural lustre by being exposed to a moderate vapour of Brimstone; but Crimson or Scarlet Flowers, by being exposed to the vapour of a solution of Tin in Spirit of Nitre. The vapour of a solution of Filings of Steel in Spirit of Vitriol, restores to the Leaves and Stalk, their primitive green colour. This method succeeds perfectly well in single Flowers. There are some difficulties with respect to Pinks, Carnations, and other double Flowers; to succeed with them, split the cup on each side, and when the Flower is quire dry, glue it together with Gum-water; or prick the cup in different parts with a large pin.
As to the scent, which is in great measure lost in drying, it may be restored, by dropping into the middle of the Flower a drop of its Essential Oil; for instance, a drop of Oil of Roses on a Rose, Oil of Cloves on a Clove-july-flower, Oil of Jasmine on a Jasmine Flower.
124. _A Secret to preserve Flowers._
Fill an earthen, copper, or wooden vessel half full of sifted Sand, then fill it up to the brim with clear Spring Water, and stir the Sand well with a stick in order to detach the earthy particles. When the Sand has thoroughly settled, pour off the turbid Water by inclination, add fresh Water, and continue to wash the Sand, till all the Water that floats on its surface remains perfectly clear. The Sand being thus cleansed, expose it to the heat of the sun a sufficient time, to exhale entirely its humidity. Prepare for every Flower an earthen or tin vessel of a proper size, make choice of the finest, most perfect, and driest Flowers of their respective kinds, and be careful to leave the stalks of a good length. Place them upright in the vessel, with one hand as lightly as possible, about two or three inches below the rims, so as not to touch the sides, or each other; and with the other hand gradually pour on them the Sand till the stalk is quite covered; then lightly cover the Flower itself, separating the Leaves a little. The Tulip requires a farther operation. The triangular top that rises out of the middle of the cup, must be cut off, by which means the Leaves of the Flower will adhere better to the Stalk. When the vessel is filled with Flowers, leave it a month or two exposed to the rays of the sun; and the Flowers when taken out, though dry, will be very little inferior in beauty to new-blown Flowers, but will have lost their scent.
125. _Another Secret to preserve Flowers._
Take the finest River Sand you can get, after having sifted it several times through a fine sieve, throw it into a glass vessel full of clear Water, and rub it a good while between your fingers to render it still finer; then pour off the Water by inclination, and dry the Sand in the sun. The Sand being thus prepared, bury the Flowers gently in it with their Leaves and Stalk, disposing them in such a manner that their form may not be in the least injured. After having thus kept Flowers some time, till their humid particles are entirely evaporated, take them out, and inclose them in bottles, well corked; secure them from all changes of the atmosphere, but let them enjoy a temperate warmth; for if the heat is too great, the colours fade; and if not kept sufficiently warm, the humidity of the Flowers will not wholly evaporate.
126. _Another Method of preserving Flowers a long while, in their natural Shape and Colour._
Take the finest River Sand, divested of whatever impurities it may contain; then dry it in the sun or a stove, sift it through a sieve, and only make use of the finest part. Procure a Tin Box, or a Wooden Box lined with Tin, of any size you think proper, cover the bottom of the Box three or four inches deep with prepared Sand, and stick in it the Stalks of the Flowers in rows, but in such a manner that none of the Flowers may touch each other, afterwards filling the vacuities between the Stalks with Sand. Then spread the Sand all round the Flowers, which cover with a layer about two or three inches thick. Put this Box in a place exposed to the sun, or in some warm situation, for the space of a month. With respect to Tulips, the pistil that rises in the middle, and contains the Seed, must be dexterously cut out, and the empty space filled with Sand: too many Flowers should not be put into the same Box, nor should the Box be too large.
GLOVES.
127. _White Gloves Scented With Jasmine after the Italian manner._
Take half an ounce of White Wax; dissolve it over a gentle fire in two ounces of Oil of Ben. Dress your skins with this Liquid, dry them on lines, and clean them well with the purest water; when they are dried and properly stretched, make them up into gloves, which are to have the Jasmine Flowers applied to them eight days according to the usual method; then bring them into shape, and fold them smooth. This manner of working them up, communicates to the gloves the property of retaining the scent of the Flowers much better than those that are drest otherwise, and likewise imparts to them the virtue of preserving the hands and arms delicately soft and white.
128. _Gloves scented without Flowers._
Take an ounce of Liquid Storax, an ounce of Rose-wood, the same quantity of Florentine Orrice, and half an ounce of Yellow Sanders. Beat the three last articles into a very fine powder, and add to it the Storax, with the earths that you use to dye your gloves, and a little Gum Arabic. Then take an equal quantity of Rose and Orange Flower Water, to temper this composition which you lay on your gloves; when they are dry, rub them well, and fold them up; then dress them afresh with a little Gum Water, in which has been dissolved some powder of Florentine Orrice; hang them up to dry, and afterwards bring them into form, and fold them up as fit for use.
129. _White Gloves scented with Ketmia or Musk Seed._
Take an ounce of Yellow Sanders, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, an ounce of Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Rose-wood, and a drachm of Storax; reduce the whole to fine powder, with as much Ceruss as you choose. Mix them with Rose-water, and dress your gloves with the mixture as neatly as you can for the first coat; then rub them well, and open them when they are thoroughly dry. Use the same for the second coat, with the addition of a little Gum Arabic. For the third coat, levigate on a marble, eight grains of Ketmia Seed, four grains of Civet, a little Oil of Ben, and a very little Gum Tragacanth, dissolved in Rose-water; add to this composition a quarter of a pint of Orange Flower Water; after having applied this third coat to your gloves, bring them into form, before they get thoroughly dry.
130. _To colour Gloves a curious French Yellow._
Take Chalk and Wood Ashes, of each an equal quantity, and make a strong Lye of them; then strain off the clear Liquor, and simmer it over the fire with a little Turmeric in powder, and a very little Saffron, till it becomes pretty thick; after which set the liquor by to cool, and it is fit for use.
131. _An excellent Perfume for Gloves._
Take Ambergrise, a drachm; the same quantity of Civet; and of Orange Flower Butter, a quarter of an ounce; mix these ingredients well, and rub them into the gloves with fine Cotton Wool, pressing the perfume into them.
132. _Or,_
Take of Essence of Roses, half an ounce; Oil of Cloves and Mace, of each a drachm; Frankincense, a quarter of an ounce; mix them, and lay them in papers between your gloves. Being hard pressed, the gloves will take the scent in twenty-four hours, and afterwards hardly ever lose it.
133. _An excellent Receipt to clear a tanned Complexion._
At night going to rest, bathe the face with the Juice of Strawberries, and let it lie on the part all night, and in the morning wash yourself with Chervil Water. The skin will soon become fair and smooth.
134. _Or,_
Wash yourself with the Mucilage of Linseed, Fleawort, Gum Tragacanth, or Juice of Purslain mixed with the White of an Egg.
BREATH.
135. _To sweeten the Breath._
At night, going to bed, chew about the quantity of a small Nut of fine Myrrh.
136. _Or,_
Chew every night and morning a Clove, a piece of Florentine Orrice-root, about the size of a small bean, or the same quantity of Burnt Alum.
OILS.
137. _A Cosmetic Oil._
Take a quarter of a pint of Oil of Sweet Almonds, fresh drawn; two ounces of Oil of Tartar per Deliquium; and four drops of Oil of Rhodium: mix the whole together, and make use of it to cleanse and soften the skin.
138. _Another Cosmetic Oil._
Take a pint of Cream, infuse in it a few Water Lilies, Bean Flowers, and Roses; simmer the whole together in a vapour-bath, and keep the Oil that proceeds from it in a vial, which is to be left for some time exposed to the evening dews.
139. _Oil of Wheat._
This Oil is extracted by an Iron Press, in the same manner as Oil of Almonds. It is excellent for Chaps in either the lips or hands, tetterous eruptions, and rigidity of the skin.
140. _Compound Oil, or Essence of Fennel._
Take five pints of the best French Brandy, and the same quantity of White-Wine; three quarters of a pound of bruised Fennel Seeds, and half an ounce of Liquorice Root sliced and bruised. Put the whole into an alembic, close the mouth with Parchment, and set it in a hot house, or in hot ashes, two days; then distil off the Liquor with an uniform middling fire. What remains after the distillation of the Essence, and is called the White Drops, is only fit to wash the hands with.
141. _To make Oil of Tuberoses and Jasmine._
Bruise a little the Tuberoses or Jasmine Flowers in a marble mortar with a wooden pestle; put them into a proper vessel, with a sufficient quantity of Oil of Olives, and let them stand in the sun in a close stopped vessel twelve or fifteen days to infuse; at the expiration of which time, squeeze the Oil from the Flowers. Let the Oil stand in the sun to settle, then pour it clear off the dregs. This Oil is very fragrant, and well impregnated with the Essential Oil of these Flowers. Infuse a fresh parcel of Flowers, newly gathered, in the same Oil, and proceed as before: repeat this operation twelve or fourteen times, or even oftener if necessary, till the Oil is fully impregnated with the flavour of the Flowers. Some people use Oil of Ben instead of Sallad Oil, which in our opinion is preferable, being infinitely less apt to grow rancid. The Oils of Tuberoses, and Jasmine Flowers are of use for the Toilet on account of their fragrancy. There are cases in which they may be successfully used externally by way of friction, to comfort and strengthen the nerves, and brace up the skin when too much relaxed.
142. _An Oil scented with Flowers for the Hair._
Sallad Oil, Oil of Sweet Almonds, and Oil of Nuts, are the only ones used for scenting the hair.
Blanch your Almonds in Hot Water, and when dry, reduce them to powder; sift them through a fine sieve, strewing a thin layer of Almond-powder, and one of Flowers, over the bottom of the Box lined with Tin. When the box is full, leave them in this situation about twelve hours; then throw away the Flowers, and add fresh ones in the same manner as before, repeating the operation every day for eight successive days. When the Almond-powder is thoroughly impregnated with the scent of the Flower made choice of, put it into a new clean Linen Cloth, and with an Iron Press extract the Oil, which will be strongly scented with the fragrant perfume of the Flower.
ESSENTIAL OILS, OR QUINTESSENCES.
143. _Essential Oil, commonly called Quintessence of Lavender._
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The Toilet of FloraChapter II: Part 2
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