Chapter III: Part 3

Fill a cucurbit two thirds full with unwashed Lavender Flowers, pour upon them as much clear Water as will float about two inches above the Flowers. Fit to the cucurbit a head with a short neck, and lute on the refrigeratory vessel. Distil in the common manner with a fire of such a degree of strength as will cause the distilled water to run off in a thick thread. The phlegm and spirit will come over in a considerable quantity, and the Essential Oil, with which Lavender greatly abounds, will soon appear floating on the surface of the Water in the receiver; which is to be separated according to the rules of art. As soon as you perceive that no more Oil drops into the receiver, which generally happens to be the case a good while before the phlegm is entirely drawn off, finish your distillation. If you want a larger quantity of Quintessence, empty the still, put fresh Flowers, and adding the phlegm and spirit drawn off by the former distillation, instead of so much common Water, distil as before, till you have obtained a sufficient quantity. This Quintessence possesses great medicinal virtues, and is particularly serviceable in vapourish and hysteric disorders.

144. _To make Essence of Cinnamon._

Take half a pound of Cinnamon, reduce it in a mortar to an impalpable powder, put it into a very long necked matrass, pour on it as much highly rectified Spirit of Wine as will cover the powder about an inch. Stop the matrass with a found cork coated with bees-wax, and expose it to the sun for a whole month, observing to shake it well twice a day. At the expiration of the month, uncork the matrass, using the utmost precaution not to disturb the sediment; and gently pour off the Tincture into a clean vial.

145. _To make Quintessence of Cloves._

Take a pound of Cloves, beat them in a mortar, put them into a glass vessel, and pour on them a gallon of hot but not boiling water, cork the bottle close with a waxed cork, placed in a warm place, and let the Cloves infuse three weeks or a month; then empty the contents of the bottle into a middling sized still, fit on a low head with a short neck, and distil in the common manner, with a fire of such a degree of fierceness as to make the distilled Water run off in a stream, resembling a thick thread. The Quintessence will come over with the Spirit, mixed with a large quantity of Phlegm; but being heavier than either of those substances, will be found precipitated to the bottom of the receiver. Separate it in the usual manner, and keep it for use in a vial closely corked. Then unlute your still, and throw in the spirituous Water that remains after the separation of the Quintessence; distil it a second time, and you will obtain a small quantity more, which may be added to the former.

146. _A Cosmetic Juice._

Make a hole in a Lemon, fill it with Sugar Candy, and close it nicely with leaf Gold applied over the Rind that was cut out; then roast the Lemon in hot ashes. When desirous of using the Juice, squeeze out a little through the hole, and wash the face with a napkin wetted with it. This Juice greatly cleanses the skin, and brightens the complexion.

VIRGIN's MILK.

147. _A safe and approved Cosmetic._

Take equal parts of Gum Benjamin, and Storax, and dissolve them in a sufficient quantity of Spirit of Wine. The spirit will then become a reddish Tincture, and exhale a very fragrant smell. Some people add a little Balm of Gilead. Drop a few Drops into a glass of clear Water, and the Water, by stirring, will instantly become milky. Ladies use it successfully to clear the complexion, for which purpose nothing is better, or indeed so innocent and safe.

148. _Another, very easily made._

Beat a quantity of Houseleek in a marble mortar, squeeze out the Juice and clarify it. When you want to use it, pour a few drops of rectified Spirit on the Juice, and it will instantly turn milky. It is a very efficacious remedy for a pimpled face, and preserves the skin soft and smooth.

149. _Another._

Take a half-gallon bottle, pour into it a quart of Spirit of Wine, and a pint of clear Brandy; then add a quarter of a pound of the finest Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Storax, half an ounce of Cinnamon, two drachms of Cloves, and a Nutmeg, all bruised, and four drops of Quintessence of Egyptian Ketmia. Carefully cork the bottle, and expose it to the sun a month; but take it within doors in rainy weather. At the month's end, gently draw off the clear Tincture; and you will have a fragrant Milk, which is used by pouring a few drops on a wet napkin.

150. _A Liniment to destroy Vermin._

Take an ounce of Vinegar, the same quantity of Stavesacre, half an ounce of Honey, and half an ounce of Sulphur; mix into the consistence of a soft liniment, with two ounces of Sallad Oil.

LOTIONS.

151. _A Lotion to strengthen the Gums, and sweeten the Breath._

Take Mountain Wine, and the distilled Water of Bramble Leaves, of each a pint; half an ounce of Cinnamon; a quarter of an ounce of Cloves; the same quantity of Seville Orange-peel; Gum Lacque and Burnt Alum, of each a drachm, all in fine powder. Having added two ounces of fine Honey, put the whole into a glass bottle, and let them infuse on hot ashes the space of four days. On the fifth day squeeze the Liquor through a thick linen cloth, and preserve it in a bottle, well corked.

When the gums are relaxed, and want bracing, take a spoonful of this Liquid, and pour it into a glass. First use one half to rince the mouth; and after retaining it a little, spirt it out. Use the remainder in the same way, rubbing the gums with one of your fingers; and afterwards rince the mouth with warm-water. Repeat the operation every morning, or twice a day, if occasion requires.

To render this remedy more efficacious, add to the whole quantity of the Lotion half a pint of Cinnamon Water, distilled from White Wine.

The eastern nations, to procure a sweet breath, to render the teeth beautifully white, and fasten the gums, frequently chew boiled Chio Turpentine, or Gum Mastic. The Indians who live beyond the Ganges chew it all day long, and are so used to this habit, that they cannot without difficulty refrain from it.

The Spirituous Water of Guaiacum possesses the property of giving ease in the tooth-ache, and fastening the teeth in their sockets. The mouth is to be gargled with a quantity mixed in a glass of clear Water.

152. _Another Lotion to fasten the Teeth and sweeten the Breath._

Pour three pints of Water into an earthen or stone jar, dip in it four different times a red hot poker, and then immediately add an ounce of bruised Cinnamon, six grains of Burnt Alum, an ounce of powdered Pomegranate Bark, three ounces of fine Honey; of Vulnerary Water, Rue Water, and Myrtle Water, each a quarter of a pint; and of Brandy, half a pint. The whole being well mixed, tie a wet bladder over the mouth of the jar, and let it stand in the sun, or any warm place, for twenty-four hours; then strain off the Liquor through a thick linen cloth, or strong straining bag. Add to it two ounces of Spirit of Scurvy-grass, and keep it in a bottle, well corked. It is used in the same manner as the preceding Lotion.

153. _An admirable Lotion for the Complexion._

After having washed the face with Soap and Water, wash yourself with the following lixivium. Take clear Lees prepared from Vine Ashes, and to every pound of it, add an ounce of calcined Tartar, two drachms of Gum Sandarach, and as much Gum Juniper. Let this Lotion dry on the face without wiping it off, and afterwards wash yourself with Imperial Water.

154. _An admirable Varnish for the Skin._

Take equal parts of Lemon Juice, and Whites of new laid Eggs, beat them well together in a glazed earthen pan, which put on a slow fire, and keep the mixture constantly stirring with a wooden spatula, till it has acquired the consistence of soft butter. Keep it for use, and at the time of applying it, add a few drops of any Essence you like best. Before the face is rubbed with this varnish, it will be proper to wash with the distilled Water of rice. This is one of the best methods of rendering the complexion fair, and the skin smooth, soft, and shining.

155. _A Liniment to destroy Nits._

Take Oil of Bays, Oil of Sweet Almonds, and old Hogs Lard, of each two ounces, powdered Stavesacre, and Tansy Juice, of each half an ounce; Aloes, and Myrrh, of each a quarter of an ounce, the smaller Centaury and Salt of Sulphur, of each a drachm; mix the whole into a liniment. Before you use it, wash the hair with Vinegar.

156. _A Liniment to change the Beard and Hair black._

Take Oil of Costus, and Oil of Myrrh, of each an ounce and a half; mix them well in a leaden mortar, adding of Tar, the expressed Juice of Walnut Leaves, and Gum Labdanum, each half an ounce; Gall Nuts in fine powder, and Black Lead, of each a drachm and a half; the same quantity of Frankincense; and a sufficient quantity of Mucilage of Gum Arabic, prepared with a decoction of Gall Nuts. Apply it to the head and chin after being clean shaved.

157. _A Depilatory Liniment._

Take a quarter of a pound of Quick-lime, an ounce and a half of Orpiment, an ounce of Florentine Orrice, half an ounce of Sulphur, the same quantity of Nitre, and a pound or pint of a Lixivium made of Bean-stalk Ashes; boil the whole to a proper consistence, which may be known by dipping a wet feather into it. It is boiled enough when the feathery part of the quill easily separates from the other. Then add half an ounce of Oil of Lavender, or any aromatic Essence, and mix into a Liniment, with which if you rub the hair that grows on any part of the body, it will immediately drop off. When the hair is removed, foment the part with Oil of Sweet Almonds, or Oil of Roses.

158. _Another._

Take a quarter of a pound of Gum Ivy dissolved in Vinegar, a drachm of Orpiment, a drachm of Ant Eggs, and two drachms of Gum Arabic dissolved in Juice of Henbane, in which half an ounce of Quick-lime has been boiled. Make the whole into a liniment with a sufficient quantity of Fowls Grease, and apply a little to the part where you would wish to destroy the Hair, after being clean shaved.

159. _An excellent Lip-Salve._

Take an ounce of Myrrh, as much Litharge in fine powder, four ounces of Honey, two ounces of Bees-wax, and six ounces of Oil of Roses; mix them over a slow fire. Those who are inclined may add a few drops of Oil of Rhodium, and some Leaf Gold.

160. _Or,_

Take Armenian Bole, Myrrh, and Ceruss in fine powder, of each an ounce; mix with a sufficient quantity of Goose-grease into a proper consistence. It presently cures chaps in any part of the body.

161. _A Liniment to promote the Growth and Regeneration of the Nails._

Take two drachms of Orpiment, a drachm of Manna, the same quantity of Aloes and Frankincense, and six drachms of White Wax. Make them into a liniment, which apply to the part with a thumb-stall.

NAILS.

162. _A certain Remedy for Whitlows; a Disorder that frequently affects the Fingers._

Take Pellitory of the Wall, cut as small as possible, and mix it with a proportionable Quantity of Hog's Lard; wrap it up in several papers, one over the other, and place it in warm ashes, which though not hot enough to burn the paper, yet retain sufficient heat to roast the Pellitory of the Wall, and incorporate it thoroughly with the Lard. Then spread this Liniment on a piece of brown paper, wrap it round the Whitlow, and apply a fresh dressing, at least twice a day. That it may give the speedier relief, spread the ointment thick.

163. _Another._

Take Vine Ashes, with which make a strong Lee; and in this, warmed, let the finger soak a good while. To keep up an equal degree of warmth, every minute pour into the vessel a little more hot lees. Repeat this operation two or three times, and you will speedily find the good effect of it.

PERFUMES.

164. _Scented Tables or Pastils._

Beat into a fine powder, and sift through a hair sieve, a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still, after making Angelic Water; then put it into a mortar, with a handful of fresh-gathered Rose Leaves, and a small porringer full of Gum Tragacanth softened with Rose Water. Beat the whole into a Paste; roll it out on a dresser with a rolling-pin, and cut it into Lozenges with a knife.

To form scented Pastils, roll up bits of this Paste in the shape of a cone, that they may stand upright, and set them by to dry. These kind of Pastils are lighted in the same manner as a candle. They consume entirely away; and, while burning, exhale a fragrant smoke.

165. _A pleasant Perfume._

Take a drachm of Musk, four Cloves, four ounces of Lavender-seed, a drachm and a half of Civet, and half a drachm of Ambergrise; heat your pestle and mortar, and rub the Musk, Cloves, and Lavender-seeds together, with a lump of Loaf Sugar and a wine-glass full of Angelic or Rose-water. Take a handful of powder, and incorporate it well with this mixture, then sift it through a sieve; add two or three pounds more powder, or even a larger quantity, till the perfume is brought to a proper degree of strength. As to the Civet, put it on the end of a hot pestle, and rub it well with a handful of powder; after which add, by little and little, six pounds of powder; then sift the whole through a hair sieve to incorporate it with the other perfumed powder. The Ambergrise must be well rubbed in the mortar; and by degrees two pounds of powder, either white or grey, must be added to it, till the Ambergrise is thoroughly incorporated with the powder; then sift through a hair sieve, and mix all the three powders together. This perfume is to be kept in a Leather Bag, the seams of which are well sewed with waxed thread.

166. _Common perfumed Powder._

Take Florentine Orrice, a pound, dried Rose Leaves, a pound; Gum Benjamin, two ounces; Storax, an ounce; Yellow Sanders, an ounce and a half; Cloves, two drachms; and a little Lemon Peel; reduce the whole to a fine powder, and mix with it twenty pounds of Starch, or rather of grey or white powder; incorporate them well, and sift them through a lawn sieve.

167. _A Cassolette._

Incorporate the Powders of Florentine Orrice, Storax, Benjamin and other aromatics, with Orange-flower Water; and put this Paste into a little Silver or Copper Box lined with Tin. When you have a mind to use this perfume, set the Box on a gentle fire, or on hot ashes, and it will exhale a most delightful odour.

168. _To perfume a House, and purify the Air._

Take a root of Angelica, dry it in an oven, or before the fire, then bruise it well and infuse it four or five days in White Wine Vinegar. When you use it, lay it upon a brick made red hot, and repeat the operation several times.

169. _A Perfume to scent Powder._

Take a drachm of Musk, four ounces of Lavender Seeds, a drachm and a half of Civet, and half a drachm of Ambergrise. Beat the whole together into powder, and sift through a hair sieve. Keep this perfume in a box that shuts very close, to scent powder with, according to your fancy.

PASTILS.

170. _An excellent Composition to perfume a Room agreeably._

Take four ounces of Gum Benjamin, two ounces of Storax, and a quarter of an ounce of Aloes-wood. When these ingredients have been well bruised, simmer them about half an hour over a slow fire, in a glazed earthen pipkin, with as much Rose-water as will cover them, and then strain off the liquor for use. Dry the Residuum or Marc, and pulverize it in a warm mortar with a pound of Charcoal. Dissolve some Gum Tragacanth in the reserved Liquor, then add to your powder a drachm of fine Oriental Musk dissolved in a little Rose-water, and form the whole into a Paste, of which make pastils about the length and thickness of the little finger, narrower at top than at bottom, that they may stand firm and upright. When they are thoroughly dry, light them at the narrow end, and let them burn till they are wholly consumed. While burning they afford an exquisite perfume. To render the perfume still higher, add six grains of Ambergrise.

171. _Or,_

Pulverize together two ounces of Gum Benjamin, half an ounce of Storax, a drachm of Aloes-wood, twenty grains of fine Civet, a little Sea Coal, and Loaf Sugar; boil the whole in a sufficient quantity of Rose-water, to the consistence of a stiff paste. If you are desirous of having your pastils higher flavoured, add twelve grains of Ambergrise just before you take the composition off the fire; and the ingredients being thoroughly mixed, form them into pastils.

172. _Fragrant Pastils made use of by way of Fumigation._

Take the purest Labdanum and Gum Benjamin, of each two ounces; Storax and dry Balsam of Peru, of each three quarters of an ounce; choice Myrrh, half a drachm; Gum Tacamahac, a quarter of an ounce; Olibanum, a drachm; Liquid Balsam of Peru, half an ounce; Ambergrise, a quarter of an ounce; Musk and Civet, of each a scruple; Essential Oil of Rhodium, thirty drops; Essential Oils of Orange-flowers, Lemons, and Bergamot, of each four drops; Gum Lacque, in fine powder, two ounces and a half; Cascarilla, Aloes-wood, Rose-wood, St. Lucia-wood, Yellow Sanders, and Cinnamon, all powdered, of each a drachm. With the assistance of a vapour-bath reduce them to a mass, which form into pastils in the usual way.

173. _Pastils of Roses._

Pulverize a pound of the Marc or Residuum left in the still after making Angelica Water; likewise a large handful of Roses; and with a sufficient quantity of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water, beat them into a stiff paste, which is to be rolled out upon a marble with a rolling-pin, and cut into Lozenges, or formed into pastils. If you have a mind to ornament them, cover them with Leaf Gold or Silver.

PASTES.

174. _Paste of dried Almonds to cleanse the Skin._

Beat any quantity you please, of Sweet and Bitter Almonds in a marble mortar, and while beating, pour on them a little Vinegar in a small stream to prevent their turning oily: then add two drachms of Storax in fine powder, two ounces of White Honey, and two Yolks of Eggs boiled hard; mix the whole into a paste.

175. _Soft Almond Paste._

Blanch in warm water any quantity of Bitter Almonds, leave them to grow dry, and then beat them in a marble mortar with a little Milk, to form them into a paste. To prevent their turning oily, afterwards add the Crumb of a light White Loaf soaked in Milk. Beat it with the Almonds till they are incorporated into an uniform mass; then put the whole into a kettle, with some fresh Milk, and let them simmer over a gentle fire; keeping the composition stirring, till it is boiled into a soft paste.

176. _Paste for the Hands._

Take Sweet Almonds, half a pound; White Wine Vinegar, Brandy, and Spring Water, of each two quarts; two ounces of Crumb of Bread, and the Yolks of two Eggs. Blanch and beat the Almonds, moistening them with the Vinegar; add the Crumb of Bread soaked in the Brandy, and mix it with the Almonds and Yolks of Egg, by repeated Trituration. Then pour in the Water, and simmer the whole over a slow fire, keeping the composition continually stirring, till it has acquired a proper consistence.

177. _Or,_

Take Bitter and Sweet Almonds blanched, of each two ounces; Pine-nuts, and the four Cold Seeds, of each an ounce; beat the whole together in a marble mortar with the Yolks of two Eggs, and the Crumb of a small Wheaten Loaf. Moisten the mass with White Wine Vinegar, put it into a deep pan, simmer it over a slow fire, and when the paste ceases sticking to the pan, it is sufficiently boiled.

178. _Or,_

Take blanched Almonds, a pound; Pine-nuts, four ounces; beat them together into a paste with the addition of two ounces of Loaf Sugar, an ounce of the finest Honey, the same quantity of Bean Flower, and half a gill of Brandy. This paste may be scented with the Essences of Cloves, Lemons, Bergamot, Jasmine, Rhodium, Orange Flowers, &c. or with a few grains of Musk, Civet, or a few drops of Essence of Ambergrise, for persons who have no aversion to those perfumes.

179. _Or,_

Beat half a pound of blanched Almonds, with half an ounce of Yellow Sanders, half an ounce of Florentine Orrice, and an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, in fine powder; pour on them gradually an ounce of Rose-water, and then add half a Pippin sliced small, a quarter of a pound of stale Crumb of White Bread sifted fine, and knead the whole into a paste with two ounces of Gum Tragacanth dissolved in Rose-water.

180. _Or,_

Beat some peeled apples (having first taken out the Cores) in a marble mortar, with Rose-water, and White Wine, of each equal parts. Add some Crumb of Bread, blanched Almonds, and a little White Soap; and simmer the whole over a slow fire till it acquires a proper consistence.

181. _Or,_

Infuse some blanched Almonds, two or three hours, in Goat's or Cow's Milk, and beat them into a paste. Strain the infusion through a linen cloth with a strong pressure, and add to the strained Liquor half a pound of the Crumb of White Bread, a quarter of a pound of Borax, and as much Burnt Roch Alum. Simmer the whole together, and when almost boiled enough, add an ounce of Spermaceti. Stir the composition well with a spatula to prevent it from burning to the bottom of the pan; and let it simmer but very gently.

182. _Or,_

Dry, before the fire, half a pound of Bitter Almonds blanched, then beat them in a marble mortar as fine as possible, and add a little boiled Milk to prevent the Almonds from turning oily. Beat in the same manner the Crumb of two French Bricks, with four Yolks of Eggs boiled hard, and with the addition of some fresh Milk knead them into a paste, which incorporate with that of the Almonds.

POMATUMS.

183. _Cold Cream, or Pomatum for the Complexion._

Take White Wax and Spermaceti, of each a drachm; Oil of Sweet Almonds, two ounces; Spring Water, an ounce and a half; melt the Wax and Spermaceti together in the Oil of Almonds, in a glazed earthen pipkin, over hot ashes, or in a vapour-bath; pour the solution into a marble mortar, and stir it about with a wooden pestle, till it grow cold, and seem quite smooth; then mix the Water gradually, and keep stirring, till the whole is incorporated. This pomatum becomes extremely white and light by the agitation, and very much resembles cream, from its similitude to which it has obtained its name.

This pomatum is an excellent cosmetic, and renders the skin supple and smooth. Some add a little Balm of Gilead to heighten its virtue; and it is sometimes scented, by using Rose-water or Orange-flower Water in the preparation, instead of Spring-water, or with a few drops of any Essence, as fancy directs. It is also very good to prevent marks in the face from the Small-pox; in which last case, a little powder of Saffron, or some desiccative powder, such as Flowers of Zinc or French Chalk, is usually added. Keep it for use in a large gallypot tied over with a bladder.

184. _Cucumber Pomatum._

Take Hog's Lard, a pound; ripe Melons, and Cucumbers, of each three pounds, Verjuice, half a pint; two pippins pared, and a pint of Cow's Milk. Slice the Melons, Cucumbers, and Apples, having first pared them; bruise them in the Verjuice, and, together with the Milk and Hog's Lard, put them into an alembic. Let them infuse in a vapour-bath eight or ten hours; then squeeze out the Liquor through a straining cloth while the mixture is hot, and expose it to the cold air, or set it in a cool place to congeal. Afterwards pour off the watery part that subsides, and wash it in several Waters, till the last remains perfectly clear. Melt the pomatum again in a vapour-bath several times, to separate from it all its humid particles, and every extraneous substance; otherwise it will soon grow rancid. Keep it for use in a gallypot tied over with a bladder.

185. _Or,_

A more simple Cucumber Pomatum may be made by simmering together Hog's Lard and pared Cucumbers cut in thin slices. With respect to the rest of the process, follow the method laid down for preparing Lip-salve; and keep this pomatum in the same manner as the former.

Both these pomatums are good Cosmetics; they soften the skin, and preserve it cool and smooth.

186. _Lavender Pomatum._

Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, ten pounds of Lavender Flowers, and a quarter of a pound of Virgin's Wax; put two pounds of picked Lavender Flowers into a proper vessel with the Hog's Lard, and knead them with your hands into as uniform a paste as possible. Put this mixture into a pewter, tin, or stone pot, and cork it tight; place the vessel in a vapour-bath, and let it stand six hours; at the expiration of which time, strain the mixture through a coarse linen cloth, with the assistance of a press. Throw away the Lavender Flowers as useless, pour the melted Lard back into the same pot, and add four pounds of fresh Lavender Flowers. Stir the Lard and Flowers together while the Lard is in a liquid state, in order to mix them thoroughly; and repeat the former process. Continue to act in this manner till the whole quantity of Lavender Flowers is used. Then set in a cool place the pomatum separated from the Lavender Flowers, that it may congeal; pour off the brown aqueous juice extracted from them; and wash the Pomatum in several waters, stirring it with a wooden spatula, to separate any remaining watery particles, till the last water remains perfectly colourless. Then melt the Pomatum in a vapour-bath, and keep it in that state about an hour, in a vessel well corked; leaving it afterwards to congeal. Repeat this last operation till the aqueous particles are entirely extracted when the Wax must be added, and the Pomatum having been again melted, in a vapour-bath, in a vessel closely corked, be suffered to congeal as before. When properly prepared, fill it into gallypots, and tye the mouths over with wet bladders, to prevent the air from penetrating.

This Pomatum is extremely fragrant, but is used only for dressing the hair.

In the same manner are prepared, Orange-flower Pomatum, Jasmine Pomatum, and all Pomatums made of odoriferous flowers. Common Pomatum scented with the essences of any such flowers, may be used as a good succedaneum.

187. LIP-SALVES.

Take three ounces of Oil of Almonds, three quarters of an ounce of Spermaceti, and a quarter of an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them together over a slow fire, mixing with them a little of the powder of Alkanet Root. Keep stirring till cold, and then add a few drops of Oil of Rhodium.

188. _Or,_

Take prepared Tutty and Oil of Eggs, of each equal parts; mix, and apply them to the lips, after washing the latter with Barley or Plantain Water.

189. _Or,_

Place over a chafing-dish of coals, in a glazed earthen pan, a quarter of a pound of the best fresh Butter, and an ounce of Virgin's Wax; melt them together; when thoroughly melted, throw in the Stones of half a bunch of ripe Black Grapes, with some Alkanet Roots a little bruised. Simmer these ingredient together for a quarter of an hour; afterwards strain the mixture through a fine linen cloth; and pour into your pomatum, which must be again set on the fire, a spoonful of Orange-flower Water. Having let them simmer together a little while, take the pan off the fire, and keep the pomatum stirring till it become quite cold. It will keep a long while, and is a perfect cure for chapped lips.

190. _A Yellow Lip-Salve._

Take Yellow Bee's Wax, two ounces and a half; Oil of Sweet Almonds, a quarter of a pint; melt the Wax in the Oil, and let the mixture stand till it become cold, when it acquires a pretty stiff consistence. Scrape it into a marble mortar, and rub it with a wooden pestle, to render it perfectly smooth. Keep it for use in a gallypot, closely covered.

It is emollient and lenient; of course good for chaps in the lips, hands, or nipples; and preserves the skin soft and smooth.

A Crust of Bread applied hot, is an efficacious remedy for pimples that rise on the lips, in consequence of having drank out of a glass after an uncleanly person.

191. _A Scarlet Lip-Salve._

Take Hog's Lard washed in Rose-water, half a pound; Red Roses and Damask Roses bruised, a quarter of a pound; knead them together and let them lie in that state two days. Then melt the Hog's Lard, and strain it from the Roses. Add a fresh quantity of the latter, knead them in the Hog's Lard, and let them lie together two days as before; then gently simmer the mixture in a vapour-bath. Press out the Lard, and keep it for use in the same manner as other Lip-salves.

192. _Or,_

Take an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn, a drachm of fresh Mutton Suet, and a little bruised Alkanet Root; simmer the whole together. Instead of Oil of Sweet Almonds you may use Oil of Jasmine, or the Oil of any other Flower, if you choose the Lip-salve should have a fragrant scent.

193. _Or,_

Take Oil of Violets, and the expressed Juice of Mallows, of each an ounce and a half; Goose Grease and Veal Marrow, of each a quarter of an ounce; Gum Tragacanth, a drachm and a half; melt the whole over a gentle fire.

194. _Or,_

Take half a pound of fresh Butter, a quarter of a pound of Bee's Wax, four or five ounces of cleansed Black Grapes, and about an ounce of bruised Alkanet Root; simmer them together over a slow fire till the Wax is wholly dissolved, and the mixture become of a bright red colour; then strain, and set it by for use.

195. _Or,_

Take Deer or Goat's Suet, six ounces; Hog's Lard, four ounces: cut them into little bits, and wash them five or six different times in White Wine; then by hard pressure squeeze out every drop of the Wine. Melt the fats in a new-glazed earthen pan with half an ounce of Orrice Roots cut in thin slices, a grated Nutmeg, two or three Pippins pared and sliced thin, a pint of Rose-water, an ounce of Bee's Wax, and half an ounce of bruised Cloves. Simmer the whole over a slow fire about half an hour; then strain through a linen cloth into a pan half full of clean Water. Let the pomatum remain in the pan till cold, then wash it well, and beat it in a marble mortar with two ounces of White Wax, till they be thoroughly incorporated. Apply a little to the lips every night going to rest; and rub it upon the hands every night and morning.

196. _White Pomatum._

Take an ounce of Florentine Orrice-root, half an ounce of Calamus Aromaticus, and as much Gum Benjamin, a quarter of an ounce of Rose-wood, and a quarter of an ounce of Cloves. Bruise the whole into a gross powder, tie it up in a piece of linen, and simmer it in a vapour-bath, with two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard well washed; add a couple of Pippins pared and cut into small bits, four ounces of Rose-water, and two ounces of Orange-flower Water. After the ingredients have simmered together a little while, strain off the Liquor gently, and let the Pomatum stand till cold; then put it by for use in the same manner as other pomatums.

197. _Red Pomatum_

Is made by adding to the above more or less Alkanet Root bruised, according to the depth of colour you would wish to impart. Simmer the Pomatum and Alkanet together, stirring the mixture with a wooden spatula, till the Pomatum is sufficiently tinged; then strain it from the Roots, and set it by for use.

198. _A Pomatum to remove Redness, or Pimples in the Face._

Steep in clear Water a pound of a Boar's Cheek till it becomes tolerably white, drain it quite dry, and put it into a new-glazed earthen pan with two or three pared Pippins quartered, an ounce and a half of the four Cold Seeds bruised, and a slice of Veal about the size of the palm of one's hand. Boil the whole together in a vapour-bath for four hours, then with a strong cloth squeeze out your pomatum into an earthen dish placed upon hot ashes; adding to it an ounce of White Wax, and an ounce of Oil of Sweet Almonds. Stir the pomatum well with a spatula till it become cold.

199. _A Pomatum for Wrinkles._

Take Juice of White Lily Roots and fine Honey, of each two ounces; melted White Wax, an ounce; incorporate the whole together, and make a pomatum. It should be applied every night, and not be wiped off till the next morning.

200. _Another for the same Intention._

Take six new-laid Eggs, boil them hard, take out the Yolks, and fill the cavities with Myrrh, and powdered Sugar Candy, of each equal parts. Join the Whites together neatly, and set them on a plate before the fire; mixing the Liquor that exsudes from them with an ounce of Hog's Lard. This pomatum must be applied in the morning, and be suffered to dry upon the skin, which is afterwards to be wiped with a clean fine napkin.

201. _Or,_

Take half an ounce of Sallad Oil, an ounce of Oil of Tartar, half an ounce of Mucilage of Quince Seeds, three quarters of an ounce of Ceruss, thirty grains of Borax, and the same quantity of Sal Gem. Stir the whole together for some time in a little earthen dish, with a wooden spatula, and apply it in the same manner as the former composition.

202. _Pomatum for a red or pimpled Face._

Take two pared Apples, Celery, and Fennel, of each a handful; and Barley Meal, a quarter of an ounce. Simmer the whole together a quarter of an hour in a gill of Rose-water; then add an ounce of fine Barley Meal, the Whites of four new-laid Eggs, and an ounce of Deer's Suet. Strain through a canvas bag into a dish that contains a little Rose-water; wash the pomatum well in the Rose-water, and afterwards beat it in a mortar perfectly smooth. This pomatum is to be applied frequently through the day, to remove the redness of the face, pimples, and even freckles; but to answer the last mentioned purpose, it must be continued till they are entirely effaced. To prevent their return, the person must avoid the intense heat of the sun, and hot drying winds for some time.

203. _A Pomatum for the Skin._

Take Oil of White Poppy Seeds, and of the four Cold Seeds, of each a gill; Spermaceti, three quarters of an ounce; White Wax, an ounce: mix them into a pomatum according to the rules of art.

A great quantity of a substance resembling Butter is extracted from the Cocoa Tree, which is excellent to mollify and nourish the skin, and has long been used for this purpose amongst the Spanish Creolian women.

204. _Pomatum to make the Hair grow in a bald Part, and thicken the Hair._

Take Hen's Fat, Oil of Hempseed, and Honey, of each a quarter of a pound; melt them together in an earthen pipkin, and keep the mixture stirring with a wooden spatula, till cold. This pomatum, to obtain the desired effect, must be rubbed on the part eight days successively.

205. _Another Pomatum for the Hair._

Cut into small pieces a sufficient quantity of Hog's Cheek, steep it eight or ten days in clean Water, which be careful to change three times a day, and every time the Water is changed, stir it well with a spatula to make the flesh white. Drain the flesh dry, and putting it into a new earthen pipkin, with a pint of Rose-water, and a Lemon stuck with Cloves, simmer them over the fire till the skum looks reddish. Skim this off, and removing the pipkin from the fire, strain the Liquor. When it has cooled, take off the fat; beat it well with cold Water, which change two or three times as occasion may require; the last time using Rose-water instead of common Water. Drain the Pomatum dry, and scent it with Violets, Tuberoses, Orange Flowers, Jasmine, Jonquils a la Reine, &c. in the following manner.

206. _Manner of Scenting Pomatums for the Hair._

Spread your Pomatum about an inch thick upon several dishes or plates, strewing the flowers you make choice of on one dish, and covering them with another. Change the Flowers for fresh ones every twelve hours, and continue to pursue this method for ten or twelve days; mixing the pomatum well, and spreading it out every time that fresh Flowers are added. It will soon acquire a fragrant scent, and may be used in what manner you think proper. It is good for almost every cosmetic purpose, but more particularly for the hair, which it nourishes, strengthens, preserves, and thickens.

207. _Orange-Flower Pomatum._

Take two pounds and a half of Hog's Lard, and three pounds of Orange Flowers; mix them together in a marble mortar; then put the mixture into an earthen vessel with some Water, and place it in a vapour-bath, where let it stand till the Lard is melted, and floats above the Flowers. When it has stood till cold, pour away the Water, and simmer in the usual manner, with three pounds of fresh Orange Flowers. Repeat the same operation twice more with two pounds of Orange Flowers each time; and the last time, while the mixture stands in infusion, add a gill of Orange-flower Water. Strain through a hair sieve held over an earthen dish; drain off the Water thoroughly when cold, and keep the Pomatum in a dry place, in a gallypot close tied over with a bladder.

In the same manner are prepared Jasmine, Jonquil, Tuberose, Lavender Pomatums, and all pomatums scented with Flowers.

208. _Sultana Pomatum._

This pomatum is made of Balsam of Mecca, Spermaceti, and Oil of Sweet Almonds cold drawn. It clears and preserves the complexion, and is of use for red pimpled faces.

209. _A sweet smelling Perfume._

Take a pound of fresh-gathered Orange Flowers, of common Roses, Lavender Seeds, and Musk Roses, each half a pound; of Sweet Marjoram Leaves, and Clove-july-flowers picked, each a quarter of a pound; of Thyme, three ounces; of Myrtle Leaves, and Melilot Stalks stripped of their Leaves, each two ounces; of Rosemary Leaves, and Cloves bruised, each an ounce; of Bay Leaves, half an ounce.

Let these ingredients be mixed in a large pan covered with parchment, and be exposed to the heat of the sun during the whole summer; for the first month stirring them every other day with a stick, and taking them within doors in rainy weather. Towards the end of the season, they will afford an excellent composition for a perfume; which may be rendered yet more fragrant, by adding a little scented Cypress-powder, mixed with coarse Violet-powder.

210. _Another for the same Purpose._

Take Orange Flowers, a pound; common Roses picked without the Yellow Pedicles, a pound; Clove-july-flowers picked with the White End of their Leaves cut off, half a pound; Marjoram, and Myrtle Leaves picked, of each half a pound; Musk Roses, Thyme, Lavender, Rosemary, Sage, Chamomile, Melilot, Hyssop, Sweet Basil, and Balm, of each two ounces; fifteen or twenty Bay Leaves, two or three handfuls of Jasmine, as many little Green Oranges, and half a pound of Salt. Put them in a proper vessel, and leave them together a whole month, carefully observing to stir the mixture well twice a day with a wooden spatula or spoon.

At the month's end, add twelve ounces of Florentine Orrice-root in fine powder, and the same quantity of powdered Benjamin; of Cloves, and Cinnamon finely powdered, each two ounces; Mace, Storax, Calamus Aromaticus, all in fine powder, and Cypress-powder, of each an ounce; Yellow Sanders and Cyprus or Sweet Flag, of each three quarters of an ounce. Mix the whole thoroughly, by stirring, and you will have a very fragrant perfume.

POWDERS.

211. _Orange-Flower Powder._

Put half a pound of Orange Flowers into a box that contains twelve pounds and a half of powdered Starch; mix them well with the Starch, and stir the mixture at intervals, to prevent the Flowers from heating. At the expiration of twenty-four hours, remove the old flowers, and mix with the Starch the same quantity of fresh Orange Flowers. Continue acting in this manner for three days together, and if you think the perfume not sufficiently strong, add fresh Flowers once or twice more. The box must be kept close shut, as well after as during the operation.

212. _Jonquil Powder._

Take of Starch Powder and Jonquil Flowers, in the same proportion as in the preceding article; strew the Flowers among the Powder, and at the expiration of twenty hours, sift it through a coarse sieve. Then throw away the Flowers, and add to the Powder the same quantity of fresh Flowers. Continue this method four or five days, observing never to touch the Powder while the Flowers lie mixed with it; and the former will hence acquire a very agreeable perfume.

In the same manner are prepared, Hyacinth, Musk Rose, and Damask Rose Powders, &c.

213. _Coarse Violet Powder._

Beat separately into coarse Powder the following ingredients, viz. half a pound of dried Orange Flowers; of Lemon-peel dried, Yellow Sanders, Musk Roses, and Gum Benjamin, each a quarter of a pound; Lavender Tops dried, three ounces; of Rose Wood, Calamus Aromaticus, and Storax, each two ounces; an ounce of Sweet Marjoram, half an ounce of Cloves, two pounds of Florentine Orrice-root, and a pound of dried Provence Roses; mix the whole together. When you want to fill bags with this powder, mix a drachm of Musk and half a drachm of Civet, with a little Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth made with Angelic Water, and a little Sweet-scented Water, and rub the inside of the bag over with the composition, before you fill it with the Violet Powder.

214. _Another coarse Violet Powder._

Mix together a pound of Florentine Orrice-roots, half a pound of dried Orange Flowers, a quarter of a pound of Yellow Sanders; of Coriander Seeds, Sweet Flag, and of the Marc or Residuum left after making Angelic Water, each two ounces; an ounce and a half of Calamus Aromaticus, and an ounce of Cloves; bruise the whole into a coarse Powder, and keep it for use in a jar, close stopped.

215. _Jasmine Powder._

Powder French Chalk, sift it through a fine sieve, put it in a box, and strew on it a quantity of Jasmine Flowers; shut down the lid close, and add fresh Flowers every four and twenty hours. When the Powder is well impregnated with the scent of Jasmine, rub together a few grains of Civet, Ambergrise, and a little white Sugar Candy, and mix them with the Powder.

216. _Ambrette Powder._

Take six ounces of Bean Flour, and the same quantity of worm-eaten Wood, four ounces of Cyprus Wood, two ounces of Yellow Sanders, two ounces of Gum Benjamin, an ounce and a half of Storax, a quarter of an ounce of Calamus.

Aromaticus, and as much Labdanum; beat the whole into a very fine powder, and sift it through a lawn sieve. Add four grains of Ambergrise, and half an ounce of Mahaleb or Musk Seeds; mix them with the rest of the powder, and keep the whole in a bottle close stopped for use. You may put any quantity you please of this Perfume into common powder, to give it an agreeable flavour.

217. _Cyprus Powder._

Fill a linen bag with Oak Moss, steep it in water, which change frequently, and afterwards dry the Moss in the sun. Beat it to powder, and sprinkle it with Rose-water; then dry it again, sift it through a fine sieve, and mix with it a small quantity of any of the preceding powders.

218. _Another Cyprus Powder more fragrant._

Wash Oak Moss several times in pure water and dry it thoroughly; then sprinkle over it Orange Flower and Rose-water, and spread it thin upon a hurdle to dry. Afterwards place under it a chafing-dish, in which burn some Storax and Benjamin. Repeat this operation till the Moss becomes well perfumed; then beat it to fine powder, and to every pound add a quarter of an ounce of Musk, and as much Civet.

219. _Perfumed Powder._

Take a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, two ounces of Gum Benjamin, a pound of dried Roses, an ounce of Storax, an ounce and a half of Yellow Sanders, a quarter of an ounce of Cloves, and a small quantity of Lemon-peel; beat the whole together into fine powder, and then add twenty pounds of Starch-powder. Sift through a lawn sieve; and colour the powder according to your fancy.

220. _The White Powder that enters into the Composition of the Delightful Perfume._

Take a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, twelve Cuttle-fish Bones, eight pounds of Starch, and a handful of Sheep or Bullock's Bones calcined to whiteness; beat the whole into a powder, and sift it through a fine hair sieve.

221. _Prepared Powder._

Pour a quart of Brandy, or an ounce of highly rectified Spirit of Wine, on a pound or a pound and a half of Starch, mix them together; then dry the Starch, beat it to powder, and sift it through a fine lawn sieve. If you please you may add a little powder of Florentine Orrice-root.

222. _A Powder to nourish the Hair._

Take Roots of the Sweet Flag, Calamus Aromaticus, and Red Roses dried, of each an ounce and a half; Gum Benjamin, an ounce; Aloes Wood, three quarters of an ounce; Red Coral prepared, and Amber prepared, of each half an ounce; Bean Flour, a quarter of a pound, Florentine Orrice-roots, half a pound; mix the whole together, then beat into a fine powder, and add to it five grains of Musk, and the same quantity of Civet. This powder greatly promotes the regeneration of the hair, and strengthens and nourishes its roots. The property of enlivening the imagination, and helping the memory is also attributed to it.

223. _Common Powder._

The best Starch dried is generally the basis of all Hair-powders: as are, sometimes, worm-eaten or rotten Wood, dried Bones, or Bones calcined to whiteness, which are sifted through a fine hair sieve after they have been beaten to powder. This kind of Powder readily takes any scent, particularly that of Florentine Orrice, a root which naturally possesses a violet smell. Of these Roots, the whitest and soundest are made choice of; they are to be powdered as fine as possible, and this can only be done during the summer.

224. _White Powder._

Take four pounds of Starch, half a pound of Florentine Orrice-root, six Cuttle-fish Bones; Ox Bones and Sheeps Bones calcined to whiteness, of each half a handful; beat the whole together, and sift the Powder through a very fine sieve.

225. _Grey Powder._

To the Residuum of the preceding add a little Starch and Wood-ashes in fine powder; rub them together in a mortar some time, and then sift through a fine hair sieve.

226. _Another._

Take the Marc or Residuum of the White Powder, mix with it a little Starch, Yellow Ochre, and Wood-ashes or Baker's Coals to colour it. Beat the whole well in a mortar, then sift it through a hair sieve. Beat the coarser parts over again, and sift a second time; repeating these operations till all the composition has passed through the sieve.

227. _Flaxen coloured Powder._

Add to the White Powder a very little Yellow Ochre. The White Powder may be tinged of any colour, by adding ingredients of the colour you fancy.

228. _Bean Flour._

Grind any quantity of Beans, and sift the Meal through a very fine lawn sieve. It will take no other scent than that of Florentine Orrice.

229. _To sweeten the Breath._

Roll up a little ball of Gum Tragacanth, scent it with some odoriferous Essence or Oil, and hold it in the mouth. A little Musk may be added to the ball while rolling up, where that perfume is not disagreeable.

230. _Or,_

After having eat Garlic or Onions, chew a little raw Parsley. It will infallibly take away their offensive smell.

231. _A Remedy for scorbutic Gums._

Bruise Cinquefoil in a marble mortar, squeeze out the juice, warm it over the fire, and rub the Gums with it every night and morning.

232. _A Remedy for Moist Feet._

Take twenty pounds of Lee made of the Ashes of the Bay Tree, three handfuls of Bay Leaves, a handful of Sweet Flag, with the same quantity of Calamus Aromaticus, and Dittany of Crete; boil the whole together for some time, then strain off the liquor, and add two quarts of Wine. Steep your feet in this bath an hour every day, and in a short time they will no longer exhale a disagreeable smell.

FLEAS.

233. _A certain Method of destroying Fleas._

Sprinkle the room with a decoction of Arsmart, Bitter Apple, Briar Leaves, or Cabbage Leaves; or smoke it with burnt Thyme or Pennyroyal.

234. _Or,_

Put Tansy Leaves about different parts of the bed, viz. under the matrass, or between the blankets.

235. _Or,_

Rub the bed-posts well with a strong decoction of Elder Leaves.

236. _Or,_

Mercurial Ointment, or a fumigation of Pennyroyal Leaves, or of Brimstone, infallibly destroys Fleas; as likewise do the fresh Leaves of Pennyroyal, tied up in a bag, and laid upon the bed.

WRINKLES.

237. _A Secret to take away Wrinkles._

Heat an Iron Shovel red hot, throw on it some Powder of Myrrh, and receive the smoke on your face, covering the head with a napkin to prevent its being dissipated. Repeat this operation three times, then heat the Shovel again, and when fiery hot pour on it a mouthful of White Wine. Receive the vapour of the Wine also on your face, and repeat it three times. Continue this method every night and morning as long as you find occasion.

CARMINES.

238. _A Rouge for the Face._

Alkanet Root strikes a beautiful red when mixed with Oils or Pomatums. A Scarlet or Rose-coloured Ribband wetted with Water or Brandy, gives the Cheeks, if rubbed with it, a beautiful bloom that can hardly be distinguished from the natural colour. Others only use a Red Sponge, which tinges the cheeks of a fine carnation colour.

239. _Another._

Alum, beat them together into a coarse powder, and boil in a sufficient quantity of Red Wine, till two thirds of the Liquor are consumed. When this decoction has stood till cold, rub a little on the cheeks with a bit of cotton.

240. _The Turkish Method of preparing Carmine._

Infuse, during three or four days, in a large jar filled with White Wine Vinegar, a pound of Brazil Wood Shavings of Fernambuca, having first beaten them to a coarse powder; afterwards boil them together half an hour; then strain off the Liquor through a coarse linen cloth, set it again upon the fire, and having dissolved half a pound of Alum in White Wine Vinegar, mix both Liquors together, and stir the mixture well with a spatula. The scum that rises is the Carmine; skim it off carefully, and dry it for use.

Carmine may also be made with Cochineal, or Red Sanders, instead Brazil Wood.

241. _A Liquid Rouge that exactly imitates Nature._