Chapter I: Preface

Twenty-five years ago, this date, a company of gentlemen were encamped at the Forks of the Madison River in what is now the Yellowstone National Park. They had just finished the first complete tour of exploration ever made of that region. Fully realizing the importance of all they had seen, they asked what ought to be done to preserve so unique an assemblage of wonders to the uses for which Nature had evidently designed them. It required no argument to show that government protection alone was equal to the task, and it was agreed that a movement to secure such protection should be inaugurated at once. So rapidly did events develop along the line of this idea, that within the next eighteen months the "Act of Dedication" had become a law, and the Yellowstone National Park took its place in our country's history.

The wide-spread interest which the discovery of this region created among civilized peoples has in no degree diminished with the lapse of time. In this country particularly the Park to-day stands on a firmer basis than ever before. The events of the past two years, in matters of legislation and administration, have increased many fold the assurances of its continued preservation, and have shown that even the petty local hostility, which has now and then menaced its existence, is yielding to a wiser spirit of patriotism.

The time therefore seems opportune, in passing so important an epoch in the history of the Park, and while many of the actors in its earlier scenes are still among us, to collect the essential facts, historical and descriptive, relating to this region, and to place them in form for permanent preservation. The present literature of the Park, although broad in scope and exhaustive in detail, is unfortunately widely scattered, somewhat difficult of access, and in matters of early history, notably deficient. To supply a work which shall form a complete and connected treatment of the subject, is the purpose of the present volume.

It deals first and principally with the history of the Upper Yellowstone from the days of Lewis and Clark to the present time. The main text is supplemented by a considerable amount of appendical matter, the most important features of which are a complete list of the geographical names of the Park, with their origin and signification; a few biographical sketches of the early explorers; and a bibliography of the literature pertaining to this region.

The descriptive portion of the work contains a succinct, though comprehensive, treatment of the various scientific and popular features of the Park. While it is sufficient for all the requirements of ordinary information, it purposely refrains from a minute discussion of those details which have been, or are now being, exhaustively treated by the scientific departments of the government.

In describing a region whose fame rests upon its natural wonders, the assistance of the illustrative art has naturally been resorted to. The various accompanying maps have all been prepared especially for this work and are intended to set forth not only present geography but historical features as well. The folded map embodies every thing to date from the latest geographical surveys. It will bear careful study, and this has been greatly simplified by a system of marginal references to be used with the list of names in Appendix A.

The illustrations cover every variety of subject in the Park and represent the best results of photographic work in that region. They are mostly from the studio of Mr. F. J. Haynes, of St. Paul, the well-known Park photographer, who has done so much by his art to disseminate a knowledge of the wonders of the Yellowstone. A considerable number are from views taken during the Hayden surveys by Mr. William H. Jackson, now of Denver, Colorado. A few excellent subjects are from the amateur work of Captain C. M. Gandy, Assistant Surgeon, U. S. A., who was stationed for some years on duty in the Park. The portraits are restricted to the few early explorers who visited the Upper Yellowstone prior to the creation of the Park.

To any one who is familiar with the recent history of the Park, a work like the present would seem incomplete without some reference to those influences which endanger its future existence. A brief discussion of this subject is accordingly presented, which, without considering particular schemes, exposes the dangerous tendencies underlying them all.

In the course of a somewhat extended correspondence connected with the preparation of this work, the author has become indebted for much information that could not be found in the existing literature of the Park. He desires in this place to return his sincere acknowledgments to all who have assisted him, and to refer in a special manner.

To the Hon. N. P. Langford, of St. Paul, whose long acquaintance with the Upper Yellowstone country has made him an authority upon its history.

To Dr. Elliott Coues, of Washington, D. C., who has contributed, besides much general assistance, the essential facts relating to the name "Yellowstone."

To Captain George S. Anderson, 6th U. S. Cavalry, Superintendent of the Park, for the use of his extensive collection of Park literature.

To Prof. Arnold Hague, and others, of the U. S. Geological Survey, for many important favors.

To Prof. J. D. Butler, of Madison, Wis., for biographical data relating to James Bridger.

To Dr. R. Ellsworth Call, of Cincinnati, Ohio, for valuable assistance pertaining to the entire work.

To the Hon. D. M. Browning, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, for important data relating to the Indian tribes in the vicinity of the Yellowstone Park.

To the officers of the War and Interior Departments, the U. S. Fish Commission, the U. S. Bureau of Ethnology, and of the U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, for public documents and other information of great value.

To R. T. Durrett, LL.D., of Louisville, Ky.; Mr. J. G. Morrison, of the Library of Congress, Washington, D. C.; Mr. J. D. Losecamp, of Billings, Mont.; Mr. George Bird Grinnell, of _Forest and Stream_, New York City; Major James F. Gregory, Corps of Engineers, U. S. A.; Lieutenant Wm. H. Bean, Second Cavalry, U. S. A.; Hon. David E. Folsom, White Sulphur Springs, Mont.; Washington Mathews, Major and Surgeon, U. S. A.; Dr. A. C. Peale, of Philadelphia, Pa.; William Hallett Phillips, of Washington, D. C.; Dr. Lyman B. Sperry, of Bellevue, O.; Mrs. Matilda Cope Stevenson, of Washington, D. C.; Mrs. Sirena J. Washburn, of Greencastle, Ind.; Miss Isabel Jelke, of Cincinnati, O.; Mr. O. B. Wheeler, of St. Louis, Mo.; Mr. O. D. Wheeler, of St. Paul, Minn.; Mr. J. H. Baronett, of Livingston, Mont.; Mr. W. T. Hamilton, of Columbus, Mont.; Mr. Richard Leigh, of Wilford, Idaho; Mr. Edwin L. Berthoud, of Golden, Colo.; and Miss Laura S. Brown, of Columbus, O. H. M. C.

Columbus, Ohio, _September 19, 1895_.

CONTENTS.

PART I.--HISTORICAL.

Chapter I.--"Yellowstone" 1

Chapter II.--Indian Occupancy of the Upper Yellowstone 8

Chapter III.--John Colter 20

Chapter IV.--The Trader and Trapper 32

Chapter V.--Early knowledge of the Yellowstone 40

Chapter VI.--James Bridger 51

Chapter VII.--Raynolds Expedition 58

Chapter VIII.--Gold in Montana 65

Chapter IX.--Discovery 72

Chapter X.--The National Park Idea--Its Origin and Realization 87

Chapter XI.--Why So Long Unknown 98

Chapter XII.--Later Explorations 103

Chapter XIII.--An Indian Campaign through the National
Park 111

Chapter XIV.--Administrative History of the Park 127

Chapter XV.--The National Park Protective Act 142

PART II.--DESCRIPTIVE.

Chapter I.--Boundaries and Topography 148

Chapter II.--Geology of the Park 156

Chapter III.--Geysers 162

Chapter IV.--Hot Springs 172

Chapter V.--Fossil Forests of the Yellowstone 175

Chapter VI.--Fauna of the Yellowstone 181

Chapter VII.--Flora of the Yellowstone 187

Chapter VIII.--The Park as a Health Resort 193

Chapter IX.--The Park in Winter 198

Chapter X.--Roads, Hotels, and Transportation 201

Chapter XI.--Administration of the Park 206

Chapter XII.--A Tour of the Park--Preliminary 209

Chapter XIII.--A Tour of the Park--North Boundary to
Mammoth Hot Springs 211

Chapter XIV.--A Tour of the Park--Mammoth Hot Springs
to Norris Geyser Basin 217

Chapter XV.--A Tour of the Park--Norris Geyser Basin to
Lower Geyser Basin 221

Chapter XVI.--A Tour of the Park--Lower Geyser Basin
to Upper Geyser Basin 228

Chapter XVII.--A Tour of the Park--Upper Geyser Basin
to Yellowstone Lake 237

Chapter XVIII.--A Tour of the Park--Yellowstone Lake to
the Grand Cañon of the Yellowstone 248

Chapter XIX.--A Tour of the Park--Grand Cañon of the
Yellowstone to Junction Valley 260

PART III.--THE FUTURE.

Chapter I.--Hostility to the Park 267

Chapter II.--Railroad Encroachment and Change of Boundary 270

Chapter III.--Conclusion 281

APPENDIX A.

Geographical Names in the Yellowstone National Park 285

I.--Introductory 285

II.--Mountain Peaks 289

III.--Streams 313

IV.--Water-falls 324

V.--Lakes 327

VI.--Miscellaneous Features 338

VII.--Geysers 342

APPENDIX B.

Legislation and Regulations now in Force affecting the
Yellowstone National Park 345

APPENDIX C.

Appropriations on Account of the Yellowstone National
Park 357

APPENDIX D.

List of Superintendents of the Yellowstone National
Park 359

APPENDIX E.

Bibliography of the Yellowstone National Park 361

The Yellowstone National Park.