Chapter II: Preface: To First Edition

This book is a traveller’s story, enriched from the writings of others. In San Francisco an American Bishop said to me, “I hope, sir, you will give us your experience, for Siberia is a country of which we know so little.” Accordingly, on my return, two courses presented themselves--either to confine myself to an account of my personal adventures, or to supplement them from published information, and describe the country as a whole. I chose the latter course, and the result is in the reader’s hands. At the end of the work will be found a list of books consulted, to the authors of many of which I must acknowledge myself indebted for much scientific and technical information.

My speciality in Siberia was the visitation of its prisons and penal institutions, considered, however, not so much from an economic or administrative as from a philanthropic and religious point of view. Much has been written concerning them that is very unsatisfactory, and some things that are absolutely false. One author published “My Exile in Siberia” who never went there. “Escapes” and so-called “Revelations” of Siberia have been written by others who were banished only a few days’ journey beyond the Urals; whereas it is only east of the Baikal that the severest forms of exile life begin. None, so far as I know, who have escaped or been released from the mines, have written the tale of what they endured, and very few authors have been in a position even to describe what the penal mines are like.

It has been comparatively easy, therefore, in England for writers to exaggerate on this subject almost as they pleased, because scarcely any one could contradict them. Comparatively few travellers cross Northern Asia to the Amur. I doubt if any _English_ author has preceded me. Probably also I was the first foreigner ever allowed to go through the Siberian prisons and mines. Perhaps none before have asked permission. That I obtained such an authorization astonished my friends, though the open manner in which the letter was granted seemed to show that the authorities had nothing to hide. A master-key was put into my hand that opened every door. I went where I would, and almost when I would; and on no single occasion was admission refused, though often applied for at a moment’s notice. Statistics also were freely given me; but this was “not so writ in the bond.” An afterthought, in Siberia, emboldened me to ask for them in various places, and they were usually furnished then and there. All these are displayed before the reader. I have exaggerated nothing,--kept nothing back.

I speak thus in case I should be thought to have written with a bias; but I had no reason to be other than impartial. Of politics I know next to nothing, and so was not prejudiced in this direction. Nor had I anything to gain by withholding, or to fear from telling, the whole of the truth. I did not travel as the agent or representative of any religious body. Two societies, indeed, at my request, made me grants of books, and a generous friend provided the cost of travel; but the expedition was a private one, and implicated none but myself. I could not, of course, see matters as a prisoner would; but I wish to state that, having visited prisons in nearly every country of Europe, I have given here an unprejudiced statement of what I saw and heard in the prisons and mines of Siberia

That a foreigner, flying across Europe and Asia, as I did, is exceedingly likely to receive false impressions and form erroneous conclusions, is obvious to every one, and I claim no exemption; for though I have journeyed in Russia, from Archangel to Mount Ararat, yet my experience is that of a traveller only, and not of a resident. I do not even speak Russ, but have been dependent on interpreters, or information received in French. I trust, therefore, that no one may be misled by taking my testimony for more than it is worth. I have tried to be accurate, and that is all I can say.

Perhaps I may add, however, that my proof-sheets have been revised by Russian friends among others, and that most of the chapters concerning exile life have been submitted not only to a Russian Inspector of Prisons, but also to released political exiles who have worked in the mines. The latter endorse what I have said, and (with reference to the chapters on “Exiles,” “Political Prisoners,” and the “Mines of Nertchinsk”) the Inspector has done me the compliment to write, “What you say is so perfectly correct that your book may be taken as a standard, even by Russian authorities.” I have good hope, therefore, that in this feature of my work, at all events, I have avoided misrepresentation.

On scientific subjects I cannot speak with authority; but I have been allowed to submit the proof-sheets to various friends, who have kindly read them with an eye to their particular studies. My thanks, accordingly, are due to Sir Andrew Ramsay, LL.D., F.R.S., Director-General of the Geological Survey of the United Kingdom; to Mr. James Glaisher, F.R.S., formerly of the meteorological department of the Greenwich Observatory; and to Mr. Trelawney Saunders, Geographer to the India Office. Mr. Henry Seebohm, F.L.S., F.Z.S., has read such paragraphs as relate to zoology and ornithology; and Mr. Henry Howorth, F.S.A., author of “The History of the Mongols,” has afforded suggestions from his extensive reading in Siberian ethnology. I am also indebted for information concerning many Sclavonic words, manners, and customs to Mrs. Cattley, formerly of Petersburg, and a great traveller in Russia; and to the Rev. C. Slegg Ward, M.A., Vicar of Wootton St. Lawrence, for literary help. It is difficult to restrain my pen from mentioning others--the scores of friends who gave me introductions, the scores of others who received and honoured them--but if I once begin in this direction, where shall I end? I can only say that, for hospitality to strangers, Siberia carries the palm before every country in which I have travelled, and that from the day I crossed the Russian frontier till I reached the Pacific I met with nothing but kindness.

H. L.

THE GROVE, BLACKHEATH,
_20th December, 1881_.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

_INTRODUCTORY._

PAGE

Object of the journey.--Interest in prisons.--Visitation of
prisons in 1874.--Distribution of religious literature in
Russia.--Tour round Bothnian Gulf, 1876.--To Russo-Turkish
war, 1877.--To Archangel, 1878.--Origin of Siberian
journey.--Alba Hellman and her correspondence.--The way
opened.--Projected efforts of usefulness.--Books to be
distributed.--Final resolve 1

CHAPTER II.

_ACROSS EUROPE._

Departure for Petersburg.--Official receptions.--Minister of the
Interior.--Metropolitan of Moscow.--Introductions.--Books
forwarded.--Departure for Moscow.--Nijni Novgorod.--Site
of the fair.--Joined by interpreter.--Kasan.--Bulgarian
antiquities.--Neighbouring heathen.--Idolatrous objects
and practices.--Departure from Kasan.--The Volga and the
Kama.--Arrival at Perm 9

CHAPTER III.

_THE URALS TO TIUMEN._

A new railway.--The Ural range.--Outlook into Russia in Asia.--Nijni Tagil.--The Demidoff mines and hospital.--May weather.--Russian railways.--Arrival at Ekaterineburg.--An orphanage.--Precious stones.--Orenburg shawls.--Tarantass and luggage.--Departure for Tiumen.--The exiles.--Visits to the authorities 17

CHAPTER IV.

_THE EXILES._

Reasons for and history of deportation to Siberia.--Number
of exiles.--Their education.--Crimes.--Sentences.--Loss
of rights.--Privileges.--Proportion of hard-labour
convicts.--Where located.--Release.--Escapes.--Causes and
methods of flight.--Transport.--A convoy of exiles.--Moscow
charity.--Conveyance to Perm and Tiumen.--Their
distribution.--Order of march.--Sea-borne exiles.--Mistakes
of English newspapers.--Conveyance of political exiles 31

CHAPTER V.

_FROM TIUMEN TO TOBOLSK._

General remarks on
Siberia.--Limits.--Area.--Temperature.--Divisions.--Roads.--
Ethnography.--Language.--Posting to Tobolsk.--Floods.--Spring
roads.--Villages of Tatars.--Their history.--Characteristics.--
Costume.--Occupation.--Worship.--Language 49

CHAPTER VI.

_SIBERIAN PRISONS._

Old Finnish prisons.--Model Petersburg
prison.--Officers.--Contraband importations.--Russian
prisons of six kinds.--Siberian prisons of three kinds:
their number, location, structure, furniture.--Prisoners:
their classification.--Kansk statistics.--Method of
trial.--Remands.--Exchanging names and punishments 63

CHAPTER VII.

_SIBERIAN PRISONS (continued)._

Charitable committees.--Prison food.--Clothing.--Work.--Hard
labour.--Exercise.--Amusements.--Privileges.--Intercourse
with friends.--Punishments.--Capital
punishment.--Corporal punishment.--Irons.--Prison
discipline.--Flogging.--Exceptional severities 77

CHAPTER VIII.

_THE OBI._

Dimensions of river.--Its tributaries.--Province
of Tobolsk.--Geographical
features.--Population.--Voguls.--Samoyedes.--Intemperance.--
Commercial prospects of Obi.--Siberian produce.--Corn
land.--Timber.--Cost of provisions.--Carriage.--Discoveries
of Wiggins.--Followed by Nordenskiöld.--Ship-building at
Tiumen.--Navigation of Kara Sea.--Books on basin of Obi 96

CHAPTER IX.

_TOBOLSK._

Early history of Siberia.--Yermak.--Conquest of the
Tatars.--Tobolsk the first capital.--The exiled bell.--Our
visit to the Governor.--Hard-labour prisons.--Interior
arrangements.--“_Travaux forcés._”--Testimony of
prisoners.--Books presented 109

CHAPTER X.

_FROM TOBOLSK TO TOMSK._

The steamer
_Beljetchenko_.--Fellow-passengers.--Card-playing.--Cost
of provisions.--Inspection of convicts’ barge.--An exile
fellow-passenger.--Obi navigation.--The Ostjaks.--Their
fisheries.--Feats of archery.--Marriage customs 117

CHAPTER XI.

_TOMSK._

The province of Tomsk.--The city of Tomsk.--Visit to the
Governor.--The prison.--Institution for prisoners’
children.--A Lutheran minister.--Finnish colonies in
Siberia.--Their pastoral care.--Dissuaded from visiting
Minusinsk.--Distribution of Finnish books.--_Détour_ to
Barnaul 127

CHAPTER XII.

_SIBERIAN POSTING._

Travelling by post-horses.--The courier, crown, and ordinary
_podorojna_.--The tarantass.--Packing.--Harness.--
Horses.--Roads.--Pains and penalties.--Crossing
rivers.--Cost.--Speed.--Post-houses.--Meat and drink 134

CHAPTER XIII.

_FROM TOMSK SOUTHWARDS._

Application for horses.--Effect of Petersburg letter.--A false
start.--A horse killed.--Attempted cooking.--Siberian
weather.--Meteorology.--Scenery.--Trees, plants, and
flowers.--An elementary school.--Education in Western Siberia 143

CHAPTER XIV.

_BARNAUL._

Situation of town.--Cemetery.--Burial of the dead.--The Emperor’s
usine.--Visit to Mr. Clark.--Visits to hospital and prison.--A
recently-enacted tragedy.--Crime of the district.--Smelting
of silver and gold.--Price of land and provisions.--Return to
Tomsk 152

CHAPTER XV.

_THE SIBERIAN CHURCH._

The Russian Church.--Geographical area.--History, doctrines,
schisms.--Ecclesiastical divisions of Siberia.--Church
committees.--Russian Church services.--Picture
worship.--Vestments.--Liturgy.--Ordination.--Baptism.--
Marriage.--Minor services 161

CHAPTER XVI.

_THE SIBERIAN CHURCH (continued)._

Parochial clergy.--Their emoluments.--Duties.--Official
registers.--Discipline.--Morality.--Status.--Our
clerical visits.--Monastic clergy.--The Metropolitan
Macarius.--Fasting.--General view of Russian Church.--Compared
with Roman.--Teaching respecting Holy Scripture and salvation
by faith.--Needs of Russian Church 171

CHAPTER XVII.

_FROM TOMSK TO KRASNOIARSK._

Book-distribution in Western Siberia.--Departure
from Tomsk.--Postbells.--How to sit in
posting.--Sleeping.--Boundary of Western Siberia.--Wild
and domesticated animals.--Birds.--Scenery.--Roadside
villages.--Peasants’ houses.--Hammering up “the
Prodigal Son.”--Siberian towns.--Houses of upper
classes.--Misadventures.--A hospitable merchant.--Frontier
of Eastern Siberia 183

CHAPTER XVIII.

_THE YENESEI._

Sources of the river.--Discoveries of Wiggins and
Nordenskiöld.--The Yenesei at Krasnoiarsk.--Current,
width, depth.--Breaking up of ice.--The Yeneseisk
province.--Geography.--Meteorology.--Forests.--Timber.--Fish
of Yenesei.--Birds.--Russian population.--Navigation.--Corn
and cattle.--Towns.--A Scoptsi village.--Salubrity of
climate.--The aborigines.--Ethnology.--Tunguses.--Fur-bearing
animals.--Methods of hunting.--Minerals 196

CHAPTER XIX.

_A VISIT TO A GOLD-MINE._

Gold in Siberia.--Where found.--Gold-hunting.--A
prospecting party.--Thawing the ground.--Subterranean
passages.--Hardships.--Mining calculations.--Building of
barracks.--Preparations for our visit.--Costumes.--Road
through “the forest primeval.”--Luxuriant
vegetation.--Crossing mountains.--Arrival at mine.--Labour
of miners.--Gold-washing machine.--Government
inspection.--Wages.--Hours of labour.--Miners’
food.--Pay-day.--Drink and its follies.--Miners’
fortunes.--Mines of Eastern Siberia.--Return to Krasnoiarsk 211

CHAPTER XX.

_FROM KRASNOIARSK TO ALEXANDREFFSKY._

Situation of Krasnoiarsk.--Our hotel.--Dr. Peacock.--Visit
to prison, hospital, and madhouse.--Cathedral.--Drive
in “Rotten Row.”--Shoeing horses.--Bible affairs at
Krasnoiarsk.--Consignment to Governor for provinces of
Yeneseisk and Yakutsk.--Departure from Krasnoiarsk.--Change
of scenery.--Kansk _Okrug_.--Our arrival anticipated.--Visit
to Ispravnik.--Statistics of crime.--The Protopope of
Kansk.--Parochial information.--Demand for Scriptures.--A
travelling companion.--Further posting help.--Butterflies
and mosquitoes.--Nijni Udinsk.--Telma factory.--A
_détour_.--Alexandreffsky 227

CHAPTER XXI.

_THE ALEXANDREFFSKY CENTRAL PRISON._

Prison wards.--Punishment cells.--Communication with
friends.--Nationalities of prisoners.--Their
work.--Food.--Distribution of books.--Our
reception.--Lunch.--Departure.--Runaway horses.--An
accident.--Left alone.--Return to post-house 245

CHAPTER XXII.

_A CITY ON FIRE._

Approach to Irkutsk.--The city entered.--Remains of a fire.--A
second fire.--Our flight.--Crossing of the Angara.--A
refuge.--Inhabitants fleeing.--Salvage.--Firemen’s
efforts.--Spread of the catastrophe.--Return to lodging.--A
chapel saved.--Spectacle of fire at night.--Reflections 253

CHAPTER XXIII.

_IRKUTSK._

Province of Irkutsk.--The capital.--Its markets.--Telegraph
officers.--Visit to the Governor.--Ruins of the
city.--Attempt to establish a Bible depôt.--Supposed
incendiarism.--Benevolent arrangements of
authorities.--Wife-beating.--Servility of Russian
peasants.--Visit to a rich merchant.--Ecclesiastical
affairs.--Visit to the acting Governor-General.--The
prisons.--A prisoner’s view of them.--Prison
committee.--Distribution of books.--Visit to inspector of
schools.--Change of route 264

CHAPTER XXIV.

_THE LENA._

History of Russian invasion.--Former travellers to
Okhotsk.--Cochrane, Erman, and Hill.--Down the Lena to
Yakutsk.--Prevalence of goitre.--The Upper Lena and its
tributaries.--The Lower Lena.--Discoveries of mammoths.--New
Siberian islands.--Nordenskiöld’s passage 281

CHAPTER XXV.

_YAKUTSK._

The province of Yakutsk.--Rivers.--Minerals.--The town of
Yakutsk.--Its temperature.--Inhabitants.--The
Yukaghirs.--The Yakutes.--Their dwellings.--Food.--Dress.--
Products.--Occupations.--Industries.--Language.--Religion.--
Route from Yakutsk to Okhotsk.--Reindeer riding.--Summer
journey.--Treatment of horses 294

CHAPTER XXVI.

_ACROSS LAKE BAIKAL TO TROITZKOSAVSK._

Leaving Irkutsk.--The Angara.--Approach to the Baikal: its shores
and fish.--Steaming across.--Seizing post-horses.--Arrival
at Verchne Udinsk.--Smuggling at the prison.--Arrival at
Selenginsk.--English mission to Buriats.--English graves.--Old
scholars.--Story of the mission.--Journey to Troitzkosavsk 309

CHAPTER XXVII.

_THE SIBERIAN FRONTIER AT KIAKHTA._

Hospitable reception.--History of Kiakhta.--Treaties between
Russians and Chinese.--Early trading.--Decline of
commerce.--The tea trade.--Troitzkosavsk church.--Miraculous
ikons.--Kiakhta church.--Russian churches in
general.--Bells.--Valuable ikons.--Climate of Kiakhta.--Drive
to Ust-Keran 322

CHAPTER XXVIII.

_THE MONGOLIAN FRONTIER AT MAIMATCHIN._

Outlook into Mongolia.--Town of Maimatchin:
without women.--Visit to a Chinese
merchant.--Refreshments.--Attendants.--Purchases.--Tea
bricks for coin.--The town.--Buddhist temple.--Chinese
malefactors.--Their punishments.--Chinese
dinner.-Food.--Intoxicating drinks.--Route to
Peking.--Travellers.-Modes of conveyance.--Manners of the
desert.--Postal service 337

CHAPTER XXIX.

_FROM KIAKHTA TO CHITA._

Farewell ceremonies.--Writing home of changed
plans.--Caravans.--An iron foundry.--Buriat
yemstchiks.--Methods of driving.--Salutations.--Insignificant
post-stations.--Visit to a missionary to the Buriats.--Russian
missions in Japan.--A remarkable meeting.--The Yablonoi
mountains.--Chita.--Visit to the Governor and prison 353

CHAPTER XXX.

_THE BURIATS._

Country of the Buriats.--Their physiognomy
and costume.--Habitations.--Mongol
yourts.--Hospitality.--Fuel.--Possessions in
cattle.--Character of Buriats.--Their religions.--Buddhist
Buriats.--The soul of Buddha.--The lamas.--Their celibacy,
classification, employments, disabilities.--Buddhist
doctrines.--A prayer cylinder.--Christian Buriats.--English
missions.--Reports of English travellers.--Results of Russian
missions.--Distribution of Buriat Scriptures 364

CHAPTER XXXI.

_SIBERIAN POLITICAL PRISONERS._

The Za-Baikal, a natural prison.--“Decembrists” of
1825.--Misapprehensions respecting political prisoners.--The
“Story of Elizabeth.”--Vindictive foreign writers.--Palpable
misstatements.--Misleading information.--Dostoyeffsky’s
“Buried Alive.”--Rosen’s “Russian Conspirators.”--Present
condition of political prisoners.--Testimony of
Poles.--Treatment of an attempted regicide.--The number
of “politicals” exaggerated.--Calculations concerning
them.--Their mode of transport.--Paucity of statistics
accounted for 377

CHAPTER XXXII.

_FROM CHITA TO NERTCHINSK._

The Trans-Baikal province.--Books deposited with the
Governor--Specimen letter of consignment.--Prisons and
hospitals.--Governor’s distribution of books.--Satisfactory
results.--Journey from Chita.--Buriat _Obos_.--Russian
emigrants.--Salutations.--Approach to Nertchinsk.--Its
mineral treasures 400

CHAPTER XXXIII.

_THE SILVER AND (SO-CALLED) QUICKSILVER MINES OF NERTCHINSK._

The supposed quicksilver-mines.--Inadequate evidence of their
existence.--Unsupported statements of writers.--Not
known to Anglo-Siberians.--Silver-mines, perhaps,
intended.--Deleterious fumes a myth.--Questionable
allegations regarding silver-mines.--Sensational
writers.--Misstatements exposed.--Testimony of Collins and
other eye-witnesses.--Accounts of ex-prisoners and Lutheran
pastor.--Nertchinsk Zavod and work in the mines.--Condition
of affairs in 1866.--Present state of things.--The Nemesis
of exaggeration 408

CHAPTER XXXIV.

_FROM NERTCHINSK TO STRETINSK._

Nertchinsk.--Its climate and history.--Scene of a
Russo-Chinese treaty.--Appearance of the town.--Visit to
the authorities.--Dinner with a rich merchant.--Siberian
table customs.--Poverty of travelling fare.--Fine arts in
Siberia.--Painting and photography.--Journey from Nertchinsk 425

CHAPTER XXXV.

_FROM STRETINSK TO UST-KARA._

Arrival at Stretinsk.--Recorded distances from Petersburg.--Taking
in a passenger.--Travelling allowance to officers.--Parting
with interpreter.--Farewell to tarantass.--Starting
to Kara.--The world before me.--Previous writers on
the Amur.--Gliding down the Shilka.--Talking by dumb
signs.--My Cossack attendant.--Taking an oar.--How Russians
sleep.--Arrival at Ust-Kara 436

CHAPTER XXXVI.

_THE PENAL COLONY OF KARA._

Evil reputation of Kara.--Testimony from Siberians and
exiles.--My own experience.--The Commandant.--Our evening
drive.--Hospitable reception.--Statistics respecting
prisoners: their crimes, sentences, and settlement as
“exiles.”--The Amurski prison.--Cossack barracks.--The upper
prison.--Convicts’ food.--Prisoners’ private laws.--Middle
Kara prison.--Mohammedan forçats.--Sunday labour.--Convict
clothing.--Guard-house.--A genuine political prisoner.--The
church.--Lack of preaching.--House of the Commandant 445

CHAPTER XXXVII.

_THE CONVICT MINES OF KARA._

Gold-mines not underground.--Hours of labour.--Visit to a
mine.--Punishments.--Branding abolished.--Miners marching
off.--Statistics respecting runaways.--Women criminals at
mines.--A new building for expected politicals.--Superannuated
forçats.--The hospitals.--“Birching” and its effects.--Kara
in 1859.--Improvements effected by Colonel Kononovitch.--A
children’s home.--Return to the gold-mine.--Comparison of
Siberian and English convicts.--Distribution of books 462

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

_THE SHILKA._

Departure from Kara.--Parting hospitality.--Ust-Kara
police-master.--The head waters of the Shilka.--Collins’s
descent of Ingoda.--The Onon.--Formation of
Shilka.--Scenery below Stretinsk.--Shilkinsk.--Hospitality
of police-master.--Non-arrival of steamer.--Efforts
at conversation.--Steaming down the river.--Shilka
scenery.--Tributaries from north and south.--Arrival at
confluence of Shilka and Argun 480

CHAPTER XXXIX.

_THE HISTORY OF THE AMUR._

Divisible into three periods.--Period of Cossack
plunder.--Poyarkof.--Khabarof.--Stepanof.--Discovery and
occupation of Shilka.--Chernigovsky.--Period of conflict with
Chinese.--Russo-Chinese treaty of 1686.--Russian mission at
Peking.--Affairs on the Amur during Russian exclusion.--Third
historic period from 1847.--Preparatory operations on Lower
Amur.--Muravieff’s descent of the river, 1854.--Influence
of the Crimean war.--Colonization of Lower Amur.--Further
colonization, 1857.--Chinese protests.--Influence of
Anglo-Chinese war.--The Sea Coast erected into a Russian
province.--Renewed difficulties with China.--Treaty of
1860.--Review of Russian occupation 489

CHAPTER XL.

_THE UPPER AMUR._

Formation of the Amur.--Chinese boundary.--Our
steamer.--Captain and passengers.--Natives of Upper
Amur.--Orochons.--Manyargs.--Their hunting year.--Our
journey.--Run aground.--Table provisions.--Notes on
cooking.--Scenery.--Albazin.--Cliff of Tsagayan 503

CHAPTER XLI.

_BLAGOVESTCHENSK._

Blagovestchensk and Russian missions.--Particulars of
orthodox missionary society.--Visit to telegraph
station.--Seminary for training priests.--Salaries of
Russian clergy.--Blagovestchensk prison.--Leafy
barracks.--View of the town.--Molokan inhabitants 518

CHAPTER XLII.

_THE MIDDLE AMUR._

Departure from Blagovestchensk.--The Zeya.--Climate.--A
bath under difficulties.--Occupation of time.--Russian
tea-drinking.--The Bureya river and mountains.--Delightful
scenery.--Ekaterino-Nicolsk.--Distribution of books and
Scriptures.--Reception and recognition of passengers.--Prairie
scenery.--Shooting a dog.--The Sungari.--Chinese
exclusiveness.--Course of the river.--The Amur province.--An
excise officer.--Remarks on alcohol.--Teetotalism in Russia 531

CHAPTER XLIII.

_THE MANCHURIAN FRONTIER._

Manchuria and its aboriginal inhabitants.--Their history.--The
Daurians.--The Manchu.--Visit to Sakhalin-Ula-Hotun.--Manchu
dress.--Music.--Conveyances.--Articles of commerce.--Treatment
of dead.--Boats.--Methods of fishing.--Archery.--Town of
Aigun.--Buildings.--Temples.--Difficulties of access 547

CHAPTER XLIV.

_THE PRIMORSK OR SEA-COAST PROVINCE._

Fuller treatment of this province.--Boundaries and
dimensions.--Mountains, bays, and rivers.--Climate.--Fauna and
flora.--Aboriginal and Russian population.--Government.--Food
products.--Imports.--Taxes.--Civil government.--Health of the
people 560

CHAPTER XLV.

_THE LOWER AMUR._

My plans altered.--A serious alternative.--Khabarofka.--Fur
trade.--Post-office and bank.--A Siberian garden.--Started for
Nikolaefsk.--The Lower Amur.--Its affluents.--Fish.--A Russian
advocate.--Goldi Christians.--Sophiisk.--A procureur.--Lake
Kizi.--Mariinsk.--Snow mountains.--Mikhailofsky.--Hot-springs
of Mukhal.--Beautiful scenery.--Tyr monuments.--The “white
village.”--Mouth of the Amur 574

CHAPTER XLVI.

_THE GILYAKS._

The Gilyaks perfect heathens.--Their habitat,
number, and form.--Diseases, generation, and
character.--Habitations.--Living on fish.--Winter
and summer clothing.--Methods of fishing.--Dirty
habits.--Domestic animals.--Boats.--Marriage customs.--Price
of a wife.--Foreign relations.--Fair at Pul.--Manchu
merchants.--Conversation with Gilyaks.--Gilyak and
Goldi languages.--Education.--Superstitions.--Idols and
charms.--Method of bear catching and killing.--Alleged
worship of the bear.--Shaman rites.--Gilyak treatment of the
dead.--Romanist mission to the Gilyaks.--Martyrdom of the
missionary 593

CHAPTER XLVII.

_NIKOLAEFSK._

My arrival.--Visit to prisons and hospitals.--Health
statistics.--Siberian hospitals in general.--A Sunday
service arranged.--Visits to inhabitants.--Russian customs,
superstitions, and amusements.--Dancing.--Nikolaefsk town,
arsenal, and commerce.--Mr. Emery.--Russian bribery.--Cost of
provisions and labour.--Plans for return 614

CHAPTER XLVIII.

_KAMCHATKA._

The Upper Primorsk.--History of north-eastern maritime
discovery.--Russian navigation of Siberian
ocean.--Explorations in the North Pacific.--Wiggins and
Nordenskiöld.--Exploration of Siberia by land.--Travellers in
Upper Primorsk.--The Sea of Okhotsk and fisheries.--Bush’s
journey.--Okhotsk and its natives.--Kamchatka.--Its
volcanoes, earthquakes, springs.--Garden produce
and animals.--Kamchatdales.--Their number and
character.--The Koriaks.--Their warlike spirit.--Houses
of settled and wandering Koriaks.--Food.--Herds of
deer.--Marriage customs.--Putting sick and aged to
death.--The Chukchees.--Their habitat.--Diminution of fur
animals.--Vegetation.--Intoxicating plants.--Kennan’s
tales of the Chukchees.--Nordenskiöld stranded on Chukchee
coast.--Onkelon antiquities 630

CHAPTER XLIX.

_THE ISLAND OF SAKHALIN._

Geographical description.--Meteorology.--Flora and
fauna.--Population.--Cultivation.--Mineral
products.--Coal-mine at Dui and penal settlement.--Prison
statistics.--Flogging.--Desperate criminals.--Complaints of
prison food.--Prison labour.--Difficulties of escape.--Prison
executive and alleged abuses.--General opinion on Siberian
prisons.--Comparison of Siberian and English convicts 648

CHAPTER L.

_THE USSURI AND SUNGACHA._

Ussuri little known.--From Nikolaefsk to Khabarofka.--Proposal to
move the port.--Military forces in the province.--Departure
for Kamen Ruiboloff.--The Ussuri.--Visit to a parish
priest.--The native Goldi.--Missions of the Russian
Church.--Pay of missionaries.--Head waters of
Ussuri.--The Sungacha.--Cossacks.--Visit to a Cossack
stanitza.--Chinese houses.--Lake Khanka.--Arrival at Kamen
Ruiboloff.--Anticipated wedding 665

CHAPTER LI.

_LAKE KHANKA TO THE COAST._

Difficulties in prospect.--Appearance of the
country.--Vegetation.--Garden produce.--Medicinal
plants.--Ginseng.--Country almost uninhabited.--A serious
loss and its recovery.--Remarkable landscape.--Distribution
of animals in Siberia.--Little-Russian settlers.--Peasant
affairs and taxes.--Travelling by night.--Arrival at
Rasdolnoi.--Clerical functions in request.--War in the
post-house.--Summary of tract distribution.--Russia
as a field for Christian effort.--The Suifun.--Cheap
travelling.--Baptizing children.--Arrival at Vladivostock 688

CHAPTER LII.

_VLADIVOSTOCK._

Situation of town.--Lodged with Captain de Vries.--Chinese
labourers.--Chinese convicts.--Coreans.--Inhabitants of
Vladivostock.--Presented at the Governor’s house.--Admiral
Erdmann’s improvements.--Visit to barracks.--Boys’
high school.--Education in Russia, its cost and
method.--Vladivostock Girls’ Institute; and Free
School.--Statistics of crime.--Telegraph companies.--Sunday
services.--Protestantism in Siberia.--Village of
exiles.--General remarks on exiles.--Preparations for
departure 711