Chapter I: Front Matter

Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is enclosed in _underscores_.

TO MESOPOTAMIA AND KURDISTAN
IN DISGUISE

[_Frontispiece._
]

TO MESOPOTAMIA AND
KURDISTAN IN DISGUISE

WITH HISTORICAL NOTICES OF THE
KURDISH TRIBES AND THE CHALDEANS
OF KURDISTAN

BY E. B. SOANE

BOSTON
SMALL, MAYNARD AND COMPANY
PUBLISHERS

PREFATORY NOTE

The following chapters are a plain narrative of a journey across Mesopotamia and in Southern Kurdistan, made up from a journal kept throughout the voyage from Constantinople to Bagdad through those countries.

I think I may fairly claim that I have given here a description of a great deal so far undescribed, also a view of places, already known, from another standpoint.

Several of the situations have made it necessary to mention the fact of a knowledge of Persian, extensive enough to enable the writer to pass among Persians as one of themselves. Lest this appear a needless and offensive boast, I would say that the incidents demand its mention, and it is explained in the course of the narrative.

In the historical portions of the book, in so far as more modern history is concerned, I have been enabled to give some entirely new matter, for that on Kurdish history was supplied me in letters received from Shah Ali of Aoraman, Shaikh Reza of Kirkuk, Tahir Beg Jaf, Majid Beg Jaf, Muhammad Ali Beg Jaf, while a great part was communicated during conversations at Halabja and Sulaimania. This information, then, I think is unique. As to the chapter on Chaldean history, I am deeply indebted to M. Badria, Rais-i-Millat of Mousil, also to his brother Habib Badria, who, having access to old histories in Mousil, were generous enough to allow me the benefit of their information.

There is, I am afraid, an overwhelming use of the first personal pronoun, which I trust may be forgiven, for without it the story would not be a personal one.

The tone of the narrative may betoken, perhaps, a partiality to the Kurds; and I must admit, that having met from them more genuine kindness--unclaimed--than from any other collection of strangers met elsewhere, I owe them a large debt of gratitude, the least return for which is to throw some light upon a national character hitherto represented as being but an epitome of all that is savage, treacherous, and inhuman.

E. B. S.

MOHAMMERAH.

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE

I.--IN STAMBOUL 1

II.--FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO HIERAPOLIS 16

III.--FROM THE EUPHRATES TO THE TIGRIS, EDESSA (URFA), AND AMID
(DIARBEKR) 34

IV.--DOWN THE TIGRIS TO MOSUL 60

V.--MOSUL, THE CITIES OF THE ASSYRIANS, THE YAZIDIS 89

VI.--THE ZAB RIVERS, ANCIENT ASSYRIA AND ADIABENE, ARBELA,
KIRKUK 106

VII.--CHALDEANS 140

VIII.--BY THE HAMAVANDS TO SULAIMANIA 163

IX.--SULAIMANIA 184

X.--SHAHR-I-ZUR 210

XI.--SHAHR-I-ZUR AND HALABJA 248

XII.--LIFE IN SULAIMANIA 273

XIII.--LIFE IN SULAIMANIA (_continued_) 294

XIV.--TO KIRKUK 325

XV.--TO BAGDAD 351

XVI.--OF KURDS AND THEIR COUNTRY 367

APPENDIX--KURDISH TRIBES 405

BIBLIOGRAPHY 409

INDEX 411

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

A JAF CHIEF, S. KURDISTAN _Frontispiece_

_To face p._

BAB-UL-TOP AND AUCHON MARKET, MOSUL 92

ON THE PERSIAN FRONTIER, S. KURDISTAN 160

AORAHAN 184

THE KURDISH FRONTIER MOUNTAINS 336

ENCAMPMENT OF JAF KURDS IN SHAHR-I-ZUR 380

TO MESOPOTAMIA AND

KURDISTAN IN DISGUISE