Chapter I: Preface

DURING my residence in Brazil, I had no intention of publishing any account of what I had seen and heard in that country. Some time after my return to England, I was encouraged to put together the information which I might be able to impart. The reader will be more disposed to excuse what defects he may find, when he is informed that I went out young, that I did not gather any knowledge of the country in a systematic manner with the idea of giving it to the public, and that the idiom of a foreign language is perhaps more familiar to me than that of my own. But among judicious readers the style of works of this description will be regarded as of little importance. I have had the advantage of Mr Southey’s advice and extensive library. I have to thank Dr. Traill for his aid in preparing the Appendix; though as he did not see the whole of it, if there are any errors they must be attributed to me, not to him. The drawings for the plates were executed by a near relative, from very rough sketches of my own, assisted by description. The outline of the map is taken from Mr. Arrowsmith’s large map of South America; and the names and situations of some places are corrected, and others are inserted from my own knowledge. The plan of the harbour of Pernambuco was furnished to me by an English gentleman resident at Recife, who is indefatigable in the search of whatever may contribute to the increase of knowledge.

CONTENTS.

CHAP. I.

DEPARTURE from Liverpool.—Arrival at Pernambuco.—The Town
and Harbour of Recife.—The Governor.—The Trade Page 1

CHAP. II.

Visit to the Governor.—The Climate.—First Ride into the
Country.—Residence at a Village in the neighbourhood of
Recife.—Olinda.—Holy Thursday.—Good Friday.—Easter
Sunday.—Profession of a Friar.—St. Peter’s Day.—Visit
to a Brazilian Family.—A Dance.—Another Visit to Olinda 12

CHAP. III.

The Government.—The Taxes.—The Public Institutions.
—Criminals.—Prisons.—Military Establishments.—The
Island of Fernando de Noronha 30

CHAP. IV.

Journey to Goiana.—Journey from Goiana to Paraiba, and back
to Goiana 42

CHAP. V.

Journey from Goiana to Rio Grande.—The City of Natal.—The
Governor 56

CHAP. VI.

Continuation of the Journey.—From Natal to Açu 73

CHAP. VII.

Continuation of the Journey.—From Açu to Aracati.—From
Aracati to Searà.—Indians.—The late Governor.—The Family
of the Feitozas 97

CHAP. VIII.

Return.—From Searà to Natal.—Sertanejos.—Cattle.
—Vegetable Wax.—From Natal to Recife 129

CHAP. IX.

Voyage from Pernambuco to Maranham.—St. Luiz.—Trade.—Wild
Indians.—The Governor.—Alcantara.—The Author sails from
St. Luiz, and arrives in England 164

CHAP. X.

The Author sets sail from Gravesend, and arrives at
Pernambuco.—State of Recife.—Journey to Bom Jardim with a
Capitam-mor, and return to Recife 186

CHAP. XI.

Residence at Jaguaribe.—Journey to Goiana.—Illness.—Return
to Jaguaribe 211

CHAP. XII.

Journey to Uninha.—Continuation of my Residence at
Jaguaribe.—Negro Brotherhood of Olinda.—Blessing the
Sugar Works.—Mandingueiras and Valentoens 235

CHAP. XIII.

Removal of the Author to Itamaraca.—The Island.—Conception
and Pillar.—The Festival of Our Lady of the Rosary.
—Journey to Goiana.—The Toque.—The Cowpox 258

CHAP. XIV.

Ants, Snakes, and other Reptiles.—River of Iguaraçu.
—Building a House.—Several Species of Timber Trees.—The
Pinham, Mutamba, and Gameleira Trees.—The Whale 285

CHAP. XV.

Recruiting.—Images.—Animals.—Maracàs.—Apollinario,
Mandinga, and Poultry.—Hieroglyphics.—Festival of Our
Lady of Conception.—Fandangos.—The Fort.—A Christening.
—The Intrudo.—The Author leaves Brazil 305

CHAP. XVI.

Agriculture.—Sugar Plantations 336

CHAP. XVII.

Agriculture.—Cotton 365

CHAP. XVIII.

The Free Population 384

CHAP. XIX.

Slavery 402

CHAP. XX.

Impolicy of the Slave Trade 445

CHAP. XXI.

The Treaties of Friendship and Alliance, and of Commerce and
Navigation between the Crowns of Great Britain and
Portugal, signed at Rio de Janeiro on the 19th February
1810 457