Chapter XXXV

BRUCE’S ROUTE CONTINUED — LEBIDAH — BENGAZI — TEUCHIRA —
PTOLOMETA — SHIPWRECK AT BENGAZI — DEPARTURE FOR CANEA.

After some stay at Tripoli, I visited Lebidah, the ancient town of Leptis Magna, three days’ journey from Tripoli, where there are a great extent of ruins, but all in bad taste; chiefly done in the time of Aurelian—indeed, very bad.

It is said that in the time of Louis XIV. seven monstrous columns of granite or marble were carried from this place into France; the eighth was broken on the way, and lies still on the shore.

There were then many statues of good taste dug out of the sands, which were intended to be carried off likewise, but the Government of Tripoli, following their usual ignorant beastly prejudices, would not suffer them to be transported, pretending they were bodies of unfortunate Mussulmans petrified or confined there by magic; so that the Consul could do no better than bargain privately for the heads of those statues, which were struck off and shipped with the columns. All I can say is, that we saw several of very good taste in this mutilated state, one very beautiful colossal statue of black marble, with a quiver hung by a belt over his shoulder, two others something above the ordinary size of a man; these three of Greek workmanship.

From Tripoli I sent an English servant to Smyrna with my books, drawings, and supernumerary instruments, retaining only extracts from such authors as might be necessary for me in the Pentapolis, or other parts of the Cyrenaicum.

I then crossed the Syrtis Major to Bengazi,[287] the ancient Berenice, built by Ptolemy Philadelphus, and arrived there in the time of a most dreadful famine. The inhabitants of the town were dying with hunger for want of grain; two tribes of Arabs, whose territories surround the town, and who, when at peace, by their crops, their milk, butter and flocks, were the sources of its wealth and plenty, were then accidentally at war through the bad and weak government of the brother of the Bey of Tripoli, who then commanded at Bengazi.

The two tribes had fought; those farthest from the town and fewest in number had beaten the most numerous and nearest to Bengazi, called Welled Abeed, and stripped them of everything, and they had forced them to fly into the town.

A number of men, women and children, equal to double of those in the town, unprovided with every necessary of life, were forced in among those that were already dying with famine. The streets were every night strewed with people dead or dying with hunger.

Bengazi was situated upon a promontory, which, having lost considerably to the sea, is now, where broadest, less than half-a-mile. Nothing now remains but its port, which, though dangerous in its entry, is certainly the best anywhere on the coast of the kingdom of Tripoli. On the north there are still to be seen, beyond sea-mark, the foundations of several large buildings, of stones eight or ten feet long and three broad, which by their own weight, and being bound with strong cement, have preserved their places notwithstanding the violence of the waves.

Above the port, and below the town to the south-west, are large lakes of salt water, which formerly probably joined to the water of the harbour, and enclosed the south side of the town, forming the peninsula called by the ancients Pseudopenias.

About ten miles to the eastward is the lake Tritonis, with a small island, where was the Temple of Venus, now Monastier, and to the northward of this, the lake Zeian or the Beautiful, formerly called that of the Hesperides, into which a stream rising in a small hill above it runs into the sea, which has a communication likewise with the lake, and is the Leithon of Strabo.

About seven miles from Bengazi, to the south-west, is a small low cape called Teyonis, which, running out considerably to the north, is that which Strabo says makes the mouth of the Syrtis, with Cephala or Cape Mesrata.

The country about Bengazi, for several miles, is chiefly sand and gravel, brought thither from the coast by the violent winds, but beyond the influence of these, towards the mountains, to the east and south-east, it is a reddish clay of the same soapy quality as fuller’s earth; and provided plentiful and frequent rains fall about November, December and January, their seed-time, nothing can be more fertile; but these rains have failed for several years, and now the famine is so great, that people hourly die in the streets, and many people have been detected, chiefly women, with the heads and remains of children, murdered and eaten, all but the parts which were saved for another meal.

There was no staying at Bengazi, the Bey recommended me to a Sheikh of distant Arabs, where the calamity of famine had only reached in a smaller degree. We went to Arsinoe and several cities in the Pentapolis, the works of Ptolemy Philadelphus, which are now totally obliterated.

We went to Ras Sem, the supposed petrified city,[288] concerning which so many lies have been told. It is about nine miles south from El-Wadi, between that and El-Murag, and four days’ smart travelling south, a very little west of Bengazi; it is not so named either from the supposed fable of the Gorgon’s head, or from the petrifactions of men, horses, &c., which have been idly invented and believed, but from a fountain of mineral water of a greenish colour, so strongly impregnated with metal that it instantly, upon drinking, discharges itself by purging and vomiting. The head of a fountain or spring is called in Arabic _Ras el-Ain_, so that _Ras Sem, the fountain of poison_, is all that is implied in this name.

The only antiquities here consist of a ruined castle, not of earlier date probably than the wars of the Vandals, perhaps much later, and there are no petrifactions but what are common in many other parts of Africa.

This is all of that immense city which the Tripoli ambassador made Sir Hans Sloane believe was of considerable extent, with petrified men and horses, women at the mill and churn, and cats and mice petrified also. This severe accident has, I suppose, destroyed the breed, as neither of these animals are to be seen in the country now.

Only the jerboa, or rat of the Cyrenaicum, is very plentiful here; our Arabs killed many of them, and eat the hinder part. I engaged one of them on the journey to kill me several hundreds, which was very easily done, in time enough to carry them to Bengazi to deliver them in charge there to my Greek servant, going to Tripoli, who was to dry and take care of them. I brought these home for the lining of a cloak, flaying the tails in the manner they do ermine, happy if we had taken charge of them, and gone home with them ourselves!

The _leffah_, or cerastes of the ancients, is also very common here. It is a horned viper, generally about 16 inches in length, though often considerably longer. That of which I made a design in the desert of Barca was 22 inches long. The colour varies in darkness according to the colour of the earth in which he lives. It is remarkably supple in the spine, according to the observation of Lucan,

Spinaque vagæ torquente cerastæ.

Luc. _Bell. Civ._, l. ix.

Its bite is accounted mortal by the Moors, especially in summer, and they immediately fly for remedy either to amputation of the part, deep incisions or actual cautery; however, application of oil of olives, rubbed over the fire upon the wound, after an opening was made by a lancet, never failed to obviate any fatal consequence, even when the poison had occasioned convulsive vomitings and sickness, by having had time to circulate.

Almost as bad as the cerastes is the _Istell_,[289] a very venomous Phalangium of the Cyrenaicum; it dwells chiefly upon shrubs, and builds a nest of moss like a bird; it is larger than a spider of the largest size in England, and is of a dark black colour, or rather inclining to blue. The male is covered with fine down or hair; the female is smooth. When young they are painted with yellow along the back, with a figure much resembling the representation of the Silphum upon the medals of this country. The bite of this animal is in hot weather said to be attended with death; those who sleep on the ground among the bushes are generally those that suffer. One bit by this animal had his tongue in about half-an-hour so swollen as to be incapable of speech, but had no other mortal symptom. The glands of his throat were much swelled, and down his shoulder and arm. The bite was in the neck, which was but little discoloured; he recovered by rubbing oil upon the wound and places affected, and by repeatedly swallowing, as much as the swelling of his tongue would permit. He complained of pain in his veins, and shivered often suddenly, as before the attack of a fever: he had no remarkable thirst. Many who recover from the bite of this animal and the _leffah_ continue lame in the hand or foot, the parts generally affected. This seemed to me extraordinary, and not easily accounted for, till, upon examining one who was in these circumstances, I found that he had, in his incision into the upper part of the foot, cut the tendons of two of his toes, which, after long torment and suppuration, remained useless. This is the case, I suppose, with the others, for they make no use of outward remedies, and could scarcely believe in or be brought to use so simple a remedy as oil, though they had seen its effects, and admired them, not knowing what it was. Those who have not courage to lay open or cauterise the part, apply to marabouts for charms, and swallow certain characters, or hang them on their persons as amulets; such people, if the bite is given in hot weather, usually die.

At Ras Sem begin the sands, which continue to Ougela, and from thence, as far as is known, to the banks of the Niger. The sands are charged or impregnated to a very great degree with salt, the prevailing mineral in Africa, and from Bengazi to Ougela, and much beyond, the country is as perfectly level as the ocean.

Ougela is the seat of a Bey dependent upon, and named by Tripoli. It is in his district, and not, as has been advanced, in that of Derna, that Ras Sem is situated. Ougela consists of three villages; the largest, or capital, is Zibeel, the next Zaila, about 16 miles south-west, governed by a Caid; the other is Marad, still further south-west, but scarcely inhabited, save by those who come hither to hunt wild cows or beeves, for it is very unwholesome, by reason of stagnant water and marshes full of canes. These habitations are surrounded by large plantations of excellent dates, which are ripe in September, and hither the Arabs of the province of Bengazi come annually to load their camels with dates, for the rest of the year.

Ougela is in the way of the caravan from Fezzan to Mecca, with which come the merchants of Borno and Tombucto, as well as many other black nations to the south and south-east. Those from Tombucto are nearly two months upon their journey to Fezzan, chiefly along the Niger. Ougela is in the direct road from Fezzan to Cairo. From this to Cairo they are twenty-three days. Each camel pays one sequin, 8_s._ 6_d._ to the Bey of Ougela. They bring with them manna and gold-dust, some ostrich feathers, &c., but the trade of Tombucto is of late much decreased or turned some other way, by reason of war among the Arabs, through which the merchants have to pass. From Fezzan to Ougela, twenty-eight days. Seven days east and by north of Ougela is Siwah, which pays no acknowledgment to Tripoli, but is governed by four sheikhs of its own; it is situated on a very steep rock, and the way to the town is by a narrow winding passage, only wide enough for one person, till you arrive at the top. The water here is very bad though in great abundance, and this makes the air so bad that it has always proved fatal to those who attempted to conquer it. It is eight long days’ journey due south of Derna, and is the place, which, like Ougela, supplies the Moors of its district, the most considerable of whom are the Welled Aly, with dates.

All the interior of this vast country is very badly laid down, both as to latitude and longitude, in the French maps of Rollin, Delisle and Sanson.

The small islands, or rather rocks, before Derna, are called Kerse at this present by the Moors, and the desert to the southward of Bengazi is still called Barca or Barga.

The most distant community known to the southward of Ougela is Cuffra, that is to say, in the language of the country, _the City of Infidels_, so the Arabs call a nation or people of blacks, which inhabit the desert, seven days’ journey, or about 130 miles due south of Ougela.

These blacks live within a town enclosed with high mud walls; they are very numerous, but so afraid of fire-arms and horsemen that any surprised without the city are easily taken. There is here a large plantation of dates, and the Arabs of Bengazi, the Jowassi, and Aid Jelleed, who go to buy dates at Ougela, often undertake this journey, which they perform in seven days, carrying water on camels, and make slaves of all the blacks they can surprise without the walls, whom they sell to the Turks to carry to the Levant. After this they encamp near the water among the palm trees, and there wait the ripening of the dates, which they likewise gather without payment, and so return with their booty. These blacks are dressed in sheep or goat skins, and have for arms, bows and arrows—the bow made of wild fennel, the arrows made of the branch of the date tree, about five feet in length, including the head, which is nine inches.

I found at Bengazi a ship bound to Tripoli in Syria. It was out of my way, but it was absolutely necessary to send a part of my baggage, for which I had not occasion, to some place of future rendezvous, safe from such accidents as were to be expected every day in Bengazi.

I had formerly sent my books and most of my arms, and many other articles to Smyrna, and wrote to Mr. Murray, then our Ambassador at Constantinople, to send my firman of the Porte thither; from thence my correspondent was to forward it by another opportunity to Alexandria.

We are obliged in these countries to make use of the first ways that present, however round-about they are, or we might linger long for direct opportunities. I sent a reflector, with some other instruments, and proposed to go myself from Ptolometa to Grenneh, thence to Derna, through the desert of Libya to Alexandria, and the caravan of pilgrims from Morocco would probably have joined me at the latter part of the road.

Ptolometa is placed by the Itinerary forty-six miles from Bengazi, but is in fact Tochara. It is at the point of the mountains which, having run nearly north-west and south-east, now run north-east and south-west. They are of a moderate height, covered to the top with shrubs, chiefly of a plant called _jiddāry_, a species of thorn.

Tochara is entirely ruined, and is close upon the shore, partly destroyed by the sea, and appears to have had no port; not a piece of marble nor ornament of sculpture or architecture to be found.[290] The earth is reddish clay and very fertile. From hence we continued our way chiefly by the seaside to Ptolometa.[291]

The plain is about two miles broad, the soil the same, covered with a species of whitethorn, but nearer Ptolometa it is gravel. Ptolometa occupies the whole valley, which there is not more than a mile broad, the breadth of the town from south-east to north-west not so much. It seems to have been an oblong square; on the north-east angle is the port, which must have been small, defended by a small island, and much encroached upon by the sea.

The city, though small, seems to have contained a quantity of magnificent public buildings, but the whole is thrown down, and the ornamental parts, except many Corinthian capitals, which lie dispersed about, carried away and applied to the building of two modern castles, one a fort, probably for the defence of the port, the other larger, a little above it. There remain, besides the building here described, only three columns on foot, all of the Doric order, one in front a [true] column, the rest square in the flanks, probably intended as an angular one to a wall which surrounded the portico of the court of the Temple. The other two are about 200 yards higher up, nearer the foot of the mountain.

Near the centre of the city is the fabric delineated[292]; it seems to have been the portico of a temple, but the rest of it is so entirely ruined that no positive account or plan can be given of it. The front is to the mountains; before it was a large court with a colonnade, paved with stones as in causeways, and afterwards covered with rude mosaics. Under these are large cisterns for the reception of rain water. There are likewise wells by the seaside, but a little brackish.

These columns will probably not stand long, two being already undermined by the Arabs in search for lead, which they imagine to bind the joints of the columns. The same search made them, while we were yet there, throw down the small fragments of architrave and cornice yet remaining, and ruin one of the capitals, so that we left the three naked columns standing without any part of the entablature upon them.

A copy of Bruce’s sketch is selected for the vignette on the cover of this work. The building has been so frequently delineated that it was hardly worth while giving a facsimile of the drawing.

There is a very large building of the Corinthian order to the east of this; part of the wall is still remaining.

The columns were of different . . . . . .[293] as in the above Ionic, which seems to have been a part of it, for the north, which seems to be the vestige of the temple, behind and immediately connected with it, does not seem of itself to have merited a portico so large and magnificent as this; but all is so destroyed that nothing but conjecture can be alleged either in support or the contrary. What remains could be recovered are in the King’s Collection, with all the parts that could be found.[294]

Bruce’s account of Ptolometa is very obscure, and in some places hardly legible. Pacho, in describing the same ruins, says:—‘The only ones that have resisted the ravages of time are at some distance from the sea, and on the last slopes of the mountain. One of the most important is a Roman barrack, surrounded by a wide ditch, and having a double _enceinte_. In the interior exist, still in perfect preservation, the fireplaces which served for the domestic use of the soldiers. On the façade of this edifice are three immense blocks of freestone, on which is a very long Greek inscription,[295] but so dilapidated, that one of our most celebrated philologists, M. Letronne, affirms that a complete rendering of it is, if not impossible, at least very difficult. The little that it tells us increases our regrets, as it contains a rescript of Anastasius I., relative to divers subjects of public administration, and notably to military service. Not far from this barrack, and almost in the centre of the town, are the remains of a pronaos, with three columns erect, the sole remains of a Roman temple, below which is a great vault, divided into nine corridors, coated with cement, and certainly intended to serve as a reservoir. Lastly, at the extreme west of the ruins are two great massive constructions, a sort of Pylon, sloped in the Egyptian style, which appears to have formed the entrance to the town.’[296]

Beechey thus alludes to these ruins in his description of the Cyrenaica and Pentapolis, published in 1828:—

‘The remains marked (_a_) are the same as those which Bruce describes as those of an Ionic temple; there is nothing however, (that we can perceive), in the disposition of what still exists of their plan to authorise such a conclusion; and we have considered them the remains of a palace or other residence of more than ordinary importance. The three remaining columns appear to have formed part of a colonnade extending itself round the courtyard, which has already been described as situated above an extensive range of cisterns; remains of tesselated pavement are still observable in the court-yard, and the walls which inclose it are very decided; the columns have been raised on a basement of several feet in height, as will be seen in the vignette in which they are represented.

‘Without these, to the northward, are ranges of fallen columns of much larger dimensions than those we have just mentioned.’

Hamilton also has figured the Ionic columns, which he considers as dating from a late epoch when not a tradition of true beauty remained. He stigmatises them as clumsy and badly chiselled, and he did not see in the whole place any fragments of sculpture or architecture in a good style of art.[297]

Bruce’s drawing contains only the three columns, without accessories of any kind. To return to his narrative:—

The Welled Urfa, a clan of no great consequence in force, but rich in cattle, who occasionally pitch their tents there for the sake of the grass, if it can be so called, are masters of Ptolometa. From this neighbourhood, west to Bengazi, by Tochara, Byrsus, &c., are the Ouagheer, of no great force either. On the other side of the mountains to the east are Dursha, a thievish tribe, consisting of about 800 foot and 200 horse. Thieves from these Moors kept us in alarm all night, but, not having time to increase their numbers, they proceeded only so far as to attempt to rob our horses. In the forenoon we decamped about eleven, having taken our measurements and designs, and took refuge with the Ouagheer. Great rains having fallen for nine days, the grass in and about Ptolometa was nearly a foot high, but the corn had not yet appeared.

In calm weather vessels, chiefly French, have loaded at Ptolometa both wheat and oats, but this year famine was everywhere.

This is the only city of the Cyrenaicum that has any considerable remains of architecture standing. We finished our drawings on December 30. On the north-west side of the city are the very large quarries from which the stone for building the city was taken. We see with surprise the large blocks which were raised for the architraves and other principal parts of the building. Large grottos in the form of houses are cut into these rocks, and on the side of one of them, among other designs, the amusement of the quarriers, is hewn a frontispiece of an Ionic temple, touched with considerable spirit and intelligence, about four feet high.

Here we met a small Greek vessel unloading corn, belonging to an island not far from Crete; and here we received bad news, that the Welled Ali, the Arabs that mostly occupy the whole country between this and Alexandria, were at war amongst themselves, and had plundered the caravan of Morocco going to Mecca, that great dearth or famine had been at Derna, and the plague had followed it, that that town, divided into upper and lower, were at war among themselves, and that the Welled Habeeb were at war with the Arabs of Ptolometa, where we now were, and that we could pass no further.

This torrent of many woes was irresistible; we determined to stay no longer, but to fly from this inhospitable coast, and thus save to the public at least the knowledge we had already acquired for them.

We embarked on board the Greek caique very ill-armed and accoutred. We sailed by the dawn of day from Ptolometa in as favourable and pleasant weather as I ever saw at sea. A light and steady breeze, though not perfectly fair, promised a short and agreeable voyage, but the wind soon turned so fresh that our vessel with her large latine sails and without ballast, fell vastly to leeward; we turned prow upon Bengazi, and not far from shore we struck upon a rock, which went fairly through the vessel, and she, as it were, sat down upon it. The wind providentially calmed, but there was still a great swell at sea.

Two boats were still astern and had not been hoisted in. M‘Cormack, my Irish servant, had been a sailor on board the ‘Monarch’ before he deserted to the Spanish service; he and the other, who had likewise been a sailor, presently unlashed the largest boat and we all three got down into her, followed by a multitude of people whom we could not hinder, and there was indeed something bordering on cruelty in preventing poor people from using the same means that we had done for preserving their lives.

The most that could be done was to get loose from the ship as soon as possible, and two oars were prepared to row the boat ashore.

I had stripped myself to an under-waistcoat and linen drawers, a silk sash or girdle was wrapt round me; a pencil, small pocket-book and watch were in my breast pocket; two Moorish and two English servants followed me, the rest wisely abode by the wreck.

The vessel had in it a number of poor people, men, women and children, flying from famine, who all got over the ship’s side into the boat likewise—they were too many, it is true, but who was to hinder them? We were not twice the length of the boat from the vessel before a wave nearly filled her. I saw our fate was to be decided by the next wave that was rolling in upon us, and satisfied that some woman, child, or helpless man would lay hold upon me, entangle my arms, and weigh me down, I cried to my servants, ‘We are all lost, follow me if you can swim,’ and I let myself down in the face of the wave. Whether that or the next swell filled the boat I know not. I was a good, strong and practised swimmer, in the flower of life, full of health and exercise, and I suppose at the time one of the strongest men in the world.

All this, however, which might have availed me much in deep water, was not sufficient when I came into the surf. I received a violent blow on my breast with the eddy wave and reflux; it seemed to be with a billet of wood, and threw me upon my back and made me swallow a considerable quantity of water, which almost suffocated me.

I avoided the next by dipping my head and letting the wave go over. I found myself exceedingly weary and exhausted, but the land was close at hand.

A large wave floated me up, and I endeavoured, but in vain, to prevent myself from going back again into the surf. My heart was strong but my strength was failing, by being involuntarily twisted about and struck on the face and breast by the surf. After some further struggle before I gave myself up, I sank in the reflux of the tide, to see if I found ground, and I touched the sand with my feet, though the water was still deeper than my head. The strength of ten men was infused into me by this discovery; I fought manfully, taking advantage of floating only upon the influx of the wave, and preserving my struggle to hinder me from coming back. I was almost insensible, for I had drunk a great deal of water fetching breath. When I found my hands and knees upon the sand, I fixed my nails and knees fast, and was no longer carried back by the reflux. I had perfectly lost my recollection and understanding, and having crawled so far as to be out of the reach of the tide on the dry sand, I suppose, fainted, for I was totally insensible.

In this critical situation the Arabs, who live two short miles from the shore, came down in crowds to plunder the vessel.

One of the boats was thrown ashore, and they had belonging to them some others. There was yet one with the wreck, which scarcely appeared with its gunwale above water.

The first thing that wakened me from the semblance of death was a blow with the butt-end of a lance, shod with iron, on the juncture of my neck with the back-bone, which gave me violent pain. It was very providential it was not with the point, for the small, short waistcoat I had upon me, all in Turkish fashion, made the Arabs believe I was a Turk. After many kicks, blows and curses they stript me of the little clothing I had, and left me naked.

The boat had come ashore, another boat had been there, and a number of these savages had gone aboard to rifle the vessel, which was full of water, and fast going to pieces; everybody was brought ashore and all were stript naked as I had been.

After the discipline I had undergone, I had walked or crawled up among some white sandy hillocks, where I sat down; luckily the weather was warm, though it promised to be colder as the evening drew on.

There was great danger to be apprehended if I approached the tents where the women were, while I was naked, for in this case it was very probable I would receive another bastinado something worse than the first.

I was so confused that I could not recollect I could speak to them in their own language, and now only it came into my mind that by the gibberish, in imitation of Turkish, the Arab had uttered to me in mockery, while he was beating and stripping me, he took me for a Turk, to which, in all probability, my ill usage was owing.

An old man and a number of young ones came up to me where I was sitting. I gave them the salute _Salam Alicum_, to which none answered but one, a young man, who only repeated ‘Salam Alicum’ in a tone as if wondering at my impudence. The old man asked me whether I was a Turk, and what I had to do there? I said I was no Turk, but a poor Christian physician, a Derwich, that went about the world seeking to do good for the love of God, and was flying from famine, which I had found in that country, and was going to Greece, where I might get bread. He asked me whether I was not a Candiot or Cretan? I said I had never been in Crete, but came from Tunis, and was going there to seek bread, having lost everything in the shipwreck of that vessel. I said this in so despairing a tone of voice that there was no doubting left with the Arab that it was true.

A ragged, dirty barrican was immediately thrown over me, and I was ordered up to the tent, where there was a great spear thrust through at one end of it, a mark of sovereignty. There I saw the Sheikh of the clan, who, being in peace with the Bey, after many such questions as those I have mentioned, offered me a plentiful supper, of which all my servants partook, none having perished. A multitude of consultations ensued, of which I freed myself in the best way I could by alleging all my medicines were lost, in hopes to engage some of them to seek for my sextant at least, but all to no purpose; so that after staying two days amongst them, the Sheikh clothed me anew, gave us all the clothes we had been stripped of, and camels and a conductor to Bengazi, where we arrived on the evening of the second day.

Thence I sent a compliment to the Sheikh, and with it a man from the Bey, entreating that he would use all possible means to fish up some of my cases, and send me word, assuring him that he would not miss a handsome reward.

Promises and thanks were returned, but I never heard further of my instruments. All we recovered from the Arabs was a silver watch of Ellicot’s, its works taken out and broken to pieces, some pencils, and a Turkish leather small portfolio, in which was the sketch of the measure of Ptolometa; my pocket-book too was found, but my pencils were lost, being in a silver case, and so were all my astronomical observations since I came from Tunis.

There was lost my sextant and parallactic instrument, one timepiece, one reflecting telescope, and an acromatic one, a book with many drawings, a copy of M. de la Caille’s ‘Ephemerides,’ which I very much regretted, having a great many manuscript marginal notes, the small camera obscura, some guns and pistols, a blunderbuss and several other articles.

We found at Bengazi a small French sloop, the master of which had often been at Algiers when I was consul there. I had even, as he remembered, done him some little service, for which, contrary to the usage of that sort of folk, he was still very grateful. He had come there loaded with corn, and was going somewhere up the Archipelago or towards the Morea; the cargo he had brought was but a mite compared to the necessities of the place; it only relieved the soldiers for a time, and many people of all ages and sexes were still dying daily.

The harbour of Bengazi was full of fish, and we caught a great quantity of many excellent kinds every day with a small net. We fished, too, a multitude with the line, enough to have maintained a larger number of people than our family; we had vinegar and pepper, and some stores of onions. We had little bread, it is true; but still our industry kept us very far from starving. I endeavoured to instruct these wretches; gave them packthread and some coarse hooks, with which they could have subsisted easily with attention, and the smallest pains; but they would rather starve in multitudes, striving to pick up single grains of corn spilt upon the sand from the bursting of the sacks, or the inattention of the bearers unloading the vessels, than take pains to watch one hour with the floating tide for fish, where, after taking one, they were sure to be masters of multitudes till high water.

The captain of this small vessel lost no time; he had done his business well, and he was returning for another cargo, yet he offered me what part of his funds I needed with great frankness.

We sailed with a fair wind and in four or five days’ easy weather we landed at Canea, a small port on the western end of the island of Crete, where the French carry on a considerable trade in oil for their soap manufactories. I found myself ill there after the bathing I had got at Ptolometa, and not a bit better of the beating, signs of which I bore long afterwards.

It was one way of curing the whiteness of the skin, at which they were very much surprised, and though it did not confine me to the house, or hinder me from visiting that famous island, a violent pain in my side and down my back had taken away a great deal of my strength and activity. Sometimes I thought it was a muscular pain from cold or over-exertion; sometimes I thought it arose from a violent blow received from a stick while they were stripping me, as upon a change of weather I have felt it at times to this day.

Here ends Bruce’s narrative of his travels in the Barbary States; the remainder of his notes have reference to his excursions in Syria, especially to his visits to Baalbec and Palmyra. The drawings of Roman remains there are in no way inferior to those I have attempted to illustrate, but they do not come within the scope of the present work. These ruins have, moreover, been so fully described by other writers, and so frequently visited by the modern traveller, that they do not possess the freshness or interest attaching to the others, many of which are almost as little known at the present day as they were before Bruce’s visit a century ago.

[Decoration]

FAC-SIMILE OF BRUCE’S M. S. (_See page 10_.)]

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 287: The Cyrenaica comprised the Greek cities of Barca, Teuchira, Hesperis and Apollonia, the port of Cyrene. Under the Ptolemies, Hesperis became Berenice, Teuchira was called Arsinoe, and Barca was entirely eclipsed by its port, which was raised into a city by the name of Ptolemais. The country was at that time called the Pentapolis, from its five cities above mentioned.]

[Footnote 288: See the rumour regarding this petrified city, reported by Peyssonnel. Peyss., ap. Dur. de la Malle, i. p. 52.]

[Footnote 289: A species of Tarantula.]

[Footnote 290: Anciently Teuchira, subsequently Arsinoe, one of the five cities which composed the Pentapolis. Pacho (1827) states that the town was surrounded by a wall, forming an irregular enclosure of about two miles in circumference, flanked with towers at its angles, probably the fortifications built by Justinian. M. della Cella, in 1817, described two ruins, one with an inscription encircled by a garland of laurels, and the other evidently a temple to Bacchus. See also Beechey, p. 354, _et seq._, where is a chart of Teuchira.]

[Footnote 291: Consult Beechey, chap. xii.]

[Footnote 292: See Beechey, p. 257, who has also given an illustration of it.]

[Footnote 293: Illegible in original.]

[Footnote 294: No other sketch but that before mentioned exists in the Kinnaird collection.]

[Footnote 295: This inscription has since been removed in a very mutilated condition to Paris.]

[Footnote 296: Pacho, _Relation d’un Voyage dans la Marmarique, la Cyrénaique, &c., pendant 1824-25_. Paris, 1857; p. 178, Pl. lxviii.; lix., fig. 1; lxxii.]

[Footnote 297: Hamilton’s _Wanderings in North Africa_, p. 144.]

INDEX.

* * * * *

ABDULLA ibn Säad, 65

Abou el-Mohadjera, 65

Acouba, 178

Adanäa, 55

Ad Mercuriam, 113

Agbia, 214

Ain Amara, 37

— el-Amba, 102

— Ayat, 137, 139

— Barbar, 32, 34

— Bedjen, 101

— Beida, 100, 113

— Djougar, 135

— Edjah, 214

— Ghorab, 173

— Jeleed, 287

— Kemellel, 101

— Khenchla, 98

— Meimoun, 95

— Shabrou, 113

— Tunga, 227

— Yakoot, 56

— Youkous, 113

Aioun el-Hedjeb, 165

Akalat Heneshia, 164

Akbou, 119, 120

Aleppo pines, 194, 212

Ali Cherif, 119, 120

Alpha grass, 174

Amadis, 271

Amakin, 243

Amamra, 58

Amer Cheraga, 43

Ammædara, 189

Amphitheatre of El-Djem, 156

Ampsaga, 48

Andalusian Moors, 136, 230

Apollonia, 283

el-Arbäa, 73

Arches, 159

el-Aria, 42-44

Ariana, 132

Aquæ Regiæ, 178

Aquæ Tacapitanæ, 269

Aqueduct of Carthage, 129, 130

— of Cherchel, 23, 28

— of Tunis (Spanish), 140

Arab invasion of Africa, 178, 279

Arab tents, 213

Araditanum, 149

Arsinoe, 283, 285

Ash, of the Atlas, 121

Aspinwall, Mr., 15

Assuras, 207

Aures, Kaid of, 76

Aures Mountains, 58, 62, 66, 68, 70

Augustine, St., 31

Ausum, 119

Azib-esh-Sheikh, 120

Azrou, 118

Azrou-n-Tehour, 121

BAALBEC, Bruce’s drawings of, 294

Bab el-Goos, 136

— Khalid, 135

Babor, Mount, 122

Bacax, 40

el-Badja, 233

el-Baghäi, 100

Bagradas, 141

Bahira Gournata, 122

Bahiret el-Arneb, 265

— Cedret ed-dib, 269

— Sebkha, 66

— es-Sers. See _Sers_

el-Baiadha, 255

el-Bali, 79

Balugani, Luigi, 3, 6, 8, 49, 207

Barca, 283, 287

Barota, 170

Barrington, Hon. Daines, 7, 10

Bartolomeo, Don, 49

Bas el-Bab, 231

Bastion de France, 249, 260

Batna, 61

Bears, 252

Beetles, 165

el-Beidha, 75

Beit el-Hadjar, 194

Belad er-Ramel, 242

Bel Hanneish, 189

Belisarius, 47, 64, 130

Bengazi, 283, 285, 287, 291, 293

Beni Abbas, 114, 116

— Illilten, 122

— Mahenna, 253

— Melekeuch, 119

— Moumenein, 58

— Saleh, 253

— Teourigh, 122

— Zeed, 269

Bent Saida, 135

Berbers, 63, 64, 253

Bedeau, General, 68

Berbrugger, M., 27

Berenice, 283

Betoum, 91

Bey of Tunis, 128, 129, 140, 147, 148

Biban, 116

Bilingual Stone of Dougga, 221, 224

Bir en-Noosf, 268

Bisica Lucana, 229

Bizerta, 128, 142, 144, 146

Boisredon, Comdt., 66

Bone, 31

Boni, 115

Bordj el-Aioun, 259

— Bou Arreredj, 114

— Ibrahim, 214

— Medjana, 114, 115

Bou Dhiaf, 58, 81, 83, 92

— Hammama, 95

— Koberain, 53

— Merzoug, 113

— Radeh, 149

— Rouman, 105

— Salem, 233

— Seliah, 212

— Shater, 142

— Shemma, 270

— Zeina, 58, 75

Bruce appointed Consul-General at Algiers, 15

— visits Pæstum, 16

— leaves Algiers, 21

— arrives at Constantine, 50, 112

— — — Physgeah, 58

— — — Tattubt, 52

— — — Taggou Zeina, 52

— visits the Medrassen, 56

— — the Aurès Mountains, 58

— — Lambessa, 58, 71

— — Timegad, 83

— — Baghai, 100

— — Tebessa, 103

— — Carthage, 128

— — Aqueduct of Carthage, 132

— — Zaghouan, 136, 138

— — Tunis, 149, 153, 273, 277

— — El-Djem, 157, 159, 273, 275

— — Sbeitla, 181

— — Hydra, 188

— — Sbiba, 192

— — Mukther, 194, 198

— — Zanfour, 207, 211

— — Kef, 210

— — Lorbus, 211

— — Zowarin, 211

— — Dougga, 217

— — Ain Tunga, 227

— — Medjez el-Bab, 231

— — Tabarca, 250

— — Feriana, 265

— — Gaffsa, 267

— — Tozer, 267

— — Chott el-Djerid, 268

— — Nefzowa, 269

— — Gabes, 269, 275

— — Matamata, 272

— — Djebel Abeide, 273

— — Djerba, 275

— — Tripoli, 276, 278

— — Lebidah, 283

— — Bengazi, 283, 293

— — Ras Sem, 285

— — Ptolometa, 288

— shipwrecked near Bengazi, 291

— sails for Crete, 294

— antiquities collected by, 11

— Itinerary of, 21

— manuscripts of, 2, 9, 10, 11

— drawings of, presented to King, 5, 9

— drawings of, exhibited at Institute of British Architects, 7

— at Graphic Society, 7

— by the Queen at Society of Antiquaries, 9

Bruce, number of drawings made by, 4

Bucawash, 112

Buffaloes, wild, 146

Bugeaud, village of, 33

CACTUS, 165

Callitris quadrivalvis, 81

Canal of Gabes, proposed, 271

Cape Negro, 240, 245, 249

Capsa, 267

Carthage, 128

— aqueduct of, 129, 130

Castellum Medianum, 114

Catada, 131

Caterpillars, 98

Catherwood, Mr., 223

Cattan, 272

Caves of Djebel Thaya, 39

— of Nefsa, 240

Cedars, 95, 96, 188

Cephala, 285

Cerastes, 286

Chachias, 136

Chanzy, General, 61

Charles V., 150, 167, 248

Chausæ, 270

Chawia, 62, 67

Chellata, 119, 121

Chelma, 175

Cherchel, 24, 29

— aqueduct of, 23, 28

Chott el-Djerid, 268, 271

— el-Gharsa, 271

Christianity, extinction of, 178

Chouchat er-Ramel, 82

Cirta, 47

Cleveland, Captain, 20

Cockerell, Mr. C. M., 8

Col de Chellata, 121

Collins, M., 130

Constantine, 47

Cookery of Kabyles, 117

— in Tunis, 215, 233

Copper mines of Ain Barbar, 38

— of Teboul, 259

Coral fishery, 248

Cork trees, 255

Couscousou, 80

Cows, wild, 287

Crete, 294

Cumming Bruce, Major, 2, 7, 11

Cuffra, 287

Cyrenaica, 283

Cyrene, 283

DABDABA, 269

Daharet-Foua, 66

Daly, Mons. César, 8, 31, 36, 39, 117

Dar el-Bey, Tunis, 148

Dastugue, General, 61, 70, 81

Date trees, 76

Degeuche, 267

Derna, 287, 291

Dhahar el-Baidha, 173

Dhiffa, 80

Diana Veteranorum, 9, 53

Dihya bent-Tabita, 66

Disforesting, effects of, 34, 154, 179, 191, 226

Diss Grass, 174

Djama, 212

Djebel Abeide, 272, 273

— Arbet, 267

— Asker, 272

— Atatfa, 255

— Azim, 56

— Berd, 73

— Bou Arif, 56

— Bou Dreicen, 91

— Chellia, 93

— Debagh, 38

— Deir Sabah, 205

— Demmer, 273

— Djougar, 130

— Edough, 31, 32, 255

— Gerioun, 52

— Hanneish, 188

— Ishkul, 145

— Kharouba, 91

— Kulb-Raha, 235

— Lazarak, 77

— Mahmel, 62, 79, 81

— el Melah, 269

— Mesaood, 211

— Mestiri, 112

— es-Sakhera, 232

— Serdsum, 98

— Skarna, 193

— Tebaga, 269

— Tella, 142

— Tesbent, 101

— Thaya, 39, 252

— Tirmis, 75

— Trozza, 173, 205

— Usmir, 265

— Zaghouan, 130, 135

— Zana, 142

el-Djem, 9, 156, 273, 275

Djerba, 118, 272, 275

Djilma, 175

Djougar, 135

Djurdjura, 115, 121

Dogs, Arab, 213

Dolmens. _See_ Megalithic remains

Donaldson, Professor, 7, 12, 223

Dougga, 216

Douglas, Dr., 5, 7

Dowarets, 273

Dowary, 267

Dragons of the Atlas, 141

Drid tribe, 188, 210, 212

Dundas, Mrs. Whitely, 12

Dupuis, Mr., 150

Dursha, 290

Duveyrier, 271

Dyeing red caps, 137

EASTERN question, 257

Ebilla, 265

Edough, 31, 32, 255

Enf en-Neser, 52

Escort, exactions of, 165

— required in Tunis, 163

FATNASSA, 268, 269

Fedj bou-Ghareb, 43

Feggara, 275

Fennick, 269

Feriana, 265, 266

Fezzan, 287

Fig-tree, 121

Firis, 91

Fisgiah, 52

Fish, at Bengazi, 293

— in Lake of Bizerta, 144

— in Lake of Ishkul, 145

— in rivers, 180

el-Fonduk, 141

Fontaine des Princes, 33

Forests, destruction of, 34, 154, 179, 191, 212, 226

Fort National, 122, 123

Foum Kosentina, 91

Frashish tribe, 175

Frontiers of Algeria, 257, 258

GABES, 270, 271, 275

Gaddems, 272

Gaffsa, 267

el Geläa in Aures, 98

el-Geläa of the Beni Abbas, 115, 116

Geläa Adjmar, 188

Geläat es-Senan, 188

Geldaman, 120

Genseric, 31, 279

Geryoun, 53

Ghaara, 269

Ghar el-Djamäa, 41

el-Gharfa, 214

Ghomara, 253

Gilimer, 31, 64, 130

Gildon, Count, 85

Girfah, 44

Gobal, 266

Gouseba, 192

Gray, Sir James, 16

Grain baskets, 117

Gregorius, 177, 279

Grenneh, 288

Guebilli, 269

Guelma, 36

Guerah el-Hout, 259

HADJAR eth-Theldj, 39

Hadjarat en-Noosf, 269

Hadrumetum, 150

Halifax, Lord, 15

Hamada Oulad Ayar, 194

el-Hamma, 267, 269

Hammam Meskoutin, 32

Hamilton, Mr. W., 8

Hanach ben Abdulla es-Sanani, 103

Hanencha, 103

Haracta, 53-113

Hassan bin Naäman, 66

Henchir Merabba, 164

Henna, 271

Henneisha, 269

Hesperides, 285

Hesperis, 283

Himyarite kings of Yemen, 63

Hippo Regia, 31

— Diarrhytus, 142

Hockey, game of, 139

Hot springs, 266

Hydra, 188

Hunter, Dr., 5

ICHERRIDHEN, 123

Ifrikos, 63

Ighil Ali, 118

Inland Sea, 271

Iron mines, 34

JÄARA, 270

Jerboas, 165-286

Jibbeleah, 273

Jol, 24

Jowassi, 287

Juba I., 24

Juba II., 24, 25

Jugis Aqua, 267

Julia Cæsarea, 23

Julian, Count, 65

Juniperus macrocarpa, 80, 179

KABYLE hospitality, 122

— industries, 119

— schools, 118, 121

Kabyles of Tunis, 238

el-Kahina, 65, 66, 157

el-Kaläa, 98

el-Kantara of Constantine, 48

Karatonis, 152

el Kasr, 257

Kasr el-Aioun, 166

Kasr el-Ghoula, 49, 50

Kasr el-Mahdjouba, 43

Kasr Saeed, 147

el-Kef, 188, 205, 210

Kef er-Rai, 193

Kef Omm et-Taboul, 259

Kerouan, 65, 166

Ketena, 272

Khamisa, 215

el-Khanaba, 42

Khanga Kef et-Toot, 239

Khangat el-Hadeed, 255

Kheir-ed-deen, General, 129, 140, 147, 214

Khenchla, 66

Khomair, 238, 243, 251, 253

Khouans, 53

Kingston, Earl of, 6, 127, 129, 142, 163, 196, 199, 206, 221, 239

Kirke, Mr. R., 20

Kirna Mons, 145

Kiss, 259

Kisser, 207, 211

Koceila, 65

LA CALLE, 249, 259

el-Lahs, 205

Lake of Bizerta, 144

— of Ishkul, 145

— of Marks, 268

Lalla Khadidja, 122

Lambessa, 60, 70

Laradam, 81

Lashash, 58

Latin words in Chawia language, 68

Lebidah, 283

Lead mines, 32, 34, 245, 259

Leithon, 285

Leptis, 278

— Magna, 283

Lerneb, 265

Lions, 96, 179, 188, 194, 226, 252

Lomellini, 248

Long and short bond, 218

Lorbus, 211

Lotophagi, 275

Lotus, 270, 275

Lowdeah, 268

Lybian inscriptions, 200, 205

Lybia Tripolitana, 278

MACARTHY, Monsieur, 27

Mactar, 197

Madghes, 58

Magaran, 135

Magherawa, 205

Mahadjiba, 43

Makhsin, 212

Malich, 99

Mampsuras, 79

Manouba, 132

Marad, 287

Marbles, Numidian, 111, 220

Maretba, 266

Marfa, 58

Mascula, 98

Massinissa, 58

Matamata, 272, 273

Mater, 145

Mauritania, divisions of, 24

el-Mechebka, 49

Medjerda, 140, 141, 229

Medjez-el-Bab, 231

Medrassen, 56

Megalithic remains in Aures, 82, 92

— at Mahadjiba, 44

— — Roknia, 39

— — Sigus, 112

— — Tarafana, 42

Mekna, 242, 243

Meksour Mediouna, 175

Melagou, 95

Melew, 265

Melghigh, 62

Menäa, 75

Meninx Insula, 275

el-Mensof, 268

Menzel, 154, 269, 270

Menzel Djemil, 142

Merabba, 164

Mercury mines, 78

Mesrata, Cape, 285

Metz, 120

Milliary columns, 214, 229

Mineral springs, 146

Minorca, 16

Miskiana, 113

Moawia ibn el-Hodeidj, 65, 142

Mohammed bin Abbas, 76

Mohammedan conquest, 65

Mohammedia, 149

el-Mokrani, 114, 115, 116, 118

Monastir (in Tunis), 150

— (at Bengazi), 285

Morocco, pilgrims from, 276, 288, 291

Mouchez, Capitaine, 271, 272, 276

el-Murag, 285

Murkäa, 75

Mukther, 195, 197

Mustowah, 53

NASABATH, 119

Neardie, 59

Nefsa, 239

Nefta, 272

Nefzowa, 269

Negro, Cape, 240, 245, 249

Nememchas, 101, 181, 267

Nesse-e-deep, 269

Norte, 275, 276

Noughir, 95

Nowader Ahmama, 78

OEA, 278

Okba ibn-Nafa, 55, 65, 150, 166

Okkaf, game of, 139

Olive-trees, 121, 140, 156, 226

Omm el-Ashera, 92

Omm et-Taboul, 259

Ostriches, 190

Oudena, 133, 149

Ouagheer, 290

Oued Abdi, 62, 75, 77

— el-Abiad, 62

— el-Ahmer, 75, 92, 244, 254

— Announa, 37

— el-Asood, 226

— Barbar, 244

— Bou Hamdan, 39

— Cherf, 39

— Dellai, 166

— Djilma, 175, 179

— Djoumin, 145

— el-Ferd, 272

— Froor, 257

— el-Hatab, 188, 192

— el-Hamma, 98

— Khallad, 214, 216, 226

— el-Kebir (Algiers), 119

— — (Tunis), 243, 244, 247

— el-Khezoun, 94

— Madhir, 58

— Maghir, 116

— Malah (Nefsa), 240

— — (Testour), 232

— Merg-el-leil, 173

— Beni Mesaoud, 119

— Meskiana, 105

— Mihran, 197

— Milian, 132

— en-Nissa, 56

— Rubooäa, 91

— er-Roumel, 48

— Sabon, 197

— es-Sahel, 116, 119

— es-Sahila, 244

— Sbeitla, 175, 179

— Shabrou, 105, 112

— Sherita, 165

— Shershera, 172

— Siliana, 212, 229

— Soumam, 119

— Taga, 81, 82, 91

— Tessäa, 214

— Tinga, 145

— ez-Zan, 244

— Zanfour, 206

— Zenati, 43

— ez-Zergäa, 206, 232, 233, 244

Ougela, 287, 288

Oulad Abd en-Noor, 53

— Abdi, 58

— Ali, 211, 212, 287, 291

— Amran, 179

— Aoun, 212

— Ayar, 194, 227, 232

— Azooz, 81

— Aissa, 113, 116, 117

— Daood, 83

— Habeeb, 291

— Hamadoosh, 116

— Hassan, 188, 192

— Mehenna, 192

— Seel, 188

— Sendasini, 173

— Sidera, 255

— Sidi Abid, 267

— Sidi bou Ghanim, 188, 253

— Touaoun, 211

— Urfa, 290

— Yagoube, 210, 211, 269

Outa el-Kebir, 141

— es-Seghir, 141

PALMYRA, 294

Palus Tritonidis, 268, 269

Panthers, 252, 269

Papua Mons, 31

Parisot, Capitaine, 271

Paterson, General, 59

Pentapolis, 283

Petrified city, 285

Pigeons, sacred, 196

Pinus haleppensis, 179, 188

Piranese, 5

Pistachia Atlantica, 91

Plague, 245, 260, 285

Portes de Fer, 116

Prisons, 235

Pseudopenias, 285

Ptolemy, of Mauritania, 24

Ptolemais, 283

Ptolometa, 288, 289

RAE, Mr. Edward, 261

er-Raheia, 192

Railways in Tunis, 237

Ramel es-Safra, 242

Randon, General, 105

Ras Sem, 285

Ras Takoush, 32

Reade, Sir Thomas, 221

Red-deer, 190, 252

Roknia, 39

Roudaire, Capitaine, 271

ES-SABALA, 140

Sabra, 171

Sabrata, 278

Sand, country of, 242, 245

San Pietro, 250

Ste. Cecile, 38

Saheb et Tabäa, 140

es-Sahel, 154

Salah Bey, 49

Sallecta, 161

Salt lakes, 165

Sanäa, 103

Sambat, 269

Sbeitla, 6, 177, 191

Sbiba, 177, 191

Sebkha es-Sedjoumi, 128

Selas tribe, 173

Sem, Ras, 285

Seniore, 43

Serpents, monstrous, 141

— tame, 273

Sers, plain of, 205, 210, 211, 212, 213

Setif, 114

esh-Shabiah, 212

Shaw, Dr., 15

Shells, fossil, 145

Shineny, 270

Shipwreck at Bengazi, 261, 265, 291

Sicca Venerea, 189, 210

Sidi Abd el-Azeez, 188

— Abou Dabous, 193

— Ahmed ez-Zair, 193

— Aich, 266

— Akesh, 32

— Ali ben Ahsan, 128

— Ali ben Oune, 266

— Ali ben Salem, 172

— Ali el-Mareghani, 122

— Ali Hassan, 146

— Bel-Khair, 78

— ben Aissa, 169

— ben Oune, 269

— bou Firnan, 254

— Bougeise, 112

— bou Hadid, 142, 144

— el-Henni, 165

— el-Houni, 143

— Mohammed Khultoom, 94

— Moëlla, 193

— Mohammed esh-Shabi, 213

— Naser, 164

— Teleely, 266

Si Ismaïl, 96

— Mustafa, 94

— Zerdoud, 32

Siga, 58

Signs, 39, 113

Sirocco, 194, 214

Sisara, 145

Siwah, 287

Snakes, water (_see_ Serpents), 180

Société Générale Algérienne, 113

Solomon Strategos, 64, 85, 99, 100, 105

es-Sook, 77

Sook el-Arbäa, 42

Sook et-Toork, 243

Sournah (Tebessa), 102

— (Constantine), 45

Soumar, 122

Soumat el-Hamara, 266

Spizzichino, Signor, 143

Strange, Sir Robert, 5-16

Sufes, 177, 191

Sufetula, 177, 192

Susa, 150

Syphax, 58

Syrtis Major, 283

— Minor, 273

TABARCA, 242, 243, 245, 247

Tabarcini, 250

Ta-Babor, 122

Tafna, 259

Taghit, mines of, 78

Tagoost, 75

Taggou-Zeinah, 53

Tamgout Lalla Khadidja, 122

Thamugas, 84

Tarafana, 42

Tarantula, 286

Tattubt, 52

Tazmalt, 119

Tazou-garet, 101

Tebessa, 64, 103, 189, 265

Teboursouk, 213, 215

Tegeuse, 267

Telegraphs in Tunis, 267

Telemeen, 269

Tenoucla, 265

Tents, Arab, 213

Testour, 229

Teuchira, 283, 288

Teyonis, Cape, 285

Tezzoute, 58

Thala, 265, 266

Thelepte, 265

Theniet Ain esh-Shair, 81

— el-Abid, 78

— er-Ressas, 81

Thibkah, 269

Thignica, 227

Thompson, Consul, 19

Thubursicum Bure, 215

— Numidarum, 141

Thugga, 216

Thunodronum, 139

Thurlow, Lady, 1

Thuyas, 80

Thysdrus, 156

Tibilis, 37, 40

Tide in Gulf of Gabes, 270, 271

Ti-farasain, 72

Ti-filkouth, 122

Tiges, 267

Ti-keshwain, 77

Tili-jouen, 121

Timegad, 8, 83

Timbuctoo, 267, 287

Tingitana, 24

Tirourda, 122

Tisurus, 267

Tizairt, 118

Tizi-Bart, 121

Tizi-Zijan, 78

Tobulbu, 272

Tochara, 288

Tombeau de la Chrétienne, 23, 25

Toujan, 273

Tozer, 267

Travel in Tunis, difficulty of, 147, 198, 210

Tricameron, 133

Tripoli (Africa), 177, 276, 278, 283

Tripoli (Syria), 288

Tritonis, Lake (Gabes), 269

— — (Bengazi), 285

Tuburbo, 228

Tucca Terebinthina, 197

Tunis, 128, 275

Tusca, 244, 258

Tymphes, 102

UTHINA, 132, 133

Utica, 142

VACCA, 234

Valière, M., 17

Vandals, 32, 47, 59, 64, 105, 133

Vapour baths of Djebel Trozza, 173

Vicus Augusti, 171

WADHAHA, 92

el-Wadi, 285

Wargummah, 275, 276

Warwick, Lord, 5

Wild boars, 269

Wood, Mr., 128, 155, 170, 238

Wurglah, 267

YEMEN, invasion of Africa by the Tobbas of, 63

Youkous, 112

ZAGHOUAN, 128, 129, 135, 138

Zaila, 287

Zainah, 53

Zama, 218

Zana, 53

Zanfour, 211

Zaratt, 272

Zaouiat Susa, 154

Zebeel, 287

Zeian, Lake of, 285

Zeina, 118

Zeghalma, 188

Zemoul, 52

Zereega, 272

Zeugitana regio, 136

Ziganiah, 113

Zikak, 73

Zoheir ibn Keis el-Belowi, 65

Zouarin, 210

Zucchara, 135

LONDON: PRINTED BY
SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE
AND PARLIAMENT STREET

Transcriber's note:

pg viii Changed: ZAGOHUAN to: ZAGHOUAN

caption in Plate II. Changed: FAC SIMILIE to: FAC SIMILE

pg 299 Changed: — Bel-Khair to: — Bel-Khair, 78

Minor changes in punctuation have been done silently.

Other spelling inconsistencies have been left unchanged.

Roman inscription ligatures without unicode equivalent have been
transcribed as their component letters enclosed in curly braces.

Letter characters in inscriptions depicted as partial or incomplete
are indicated with '~'.