Chapter II: Part 2

About the mid-way between _Hadrianople_ and _Constantinople_, there is a little Town, called _Chiurli_, memorable for the _Overthrow_ which _Selimus_ received in a Battle against his Father _Bajazet_, out of which he escaped by the Swiftness of his Horse, called _Carabonluch_, i. e. a _Black Cloud_, and so fled to the _Cham_, or the _Precopeian Tartar_, who was his Father-in-Law.

Before we came to _Selimbria_, which is a Town standing on the Sea-side in our Way, we saw the Ruins of an old Wall and Ditch, which were made by the later Emperors of _Greece_, which reached from that Sea to the _Danow_, to secure all that was contained within that Fortification to the _Constantinopolitans_, against the Incursions of the _Barbarians_; and there goes a Story, that when that Wall was a Building, a certain old Man delivered his Opinion to his Wife, _viz._ That that Wall would not so much secure what was within it, from the Hands of the Infidels, as it would expose and subject it to their Rage and Fury, in regard it would add Courage to the _Barbarians_ to assault it, and weaken the Courage of the _Grecians_ to defend it.

At _Selimbria_ we had a most pleasant Prospect of a calm Sea; and ’twas very pleasant to us to behold the smooth Water, and to gather Cockles on the Shore; yea, to behold Sholes of _Dolphins_ sporting in the Water, which, with the Warmness of the Air, was exceeding delightful. It can hardly be imagined, how mild the Weather was in those Parts, though sometimes it be a little more boisterous at _Chiurli_; but here there is, as I may call it, a _Thracian Gale_, and an incredible Sweetness of Air.

When we came near to _Constantinople_, we passed over two pleasant Arms of the Sea, upon a Bridge built over them. I may safely say, That if those Places were cultivated by Art, as they are naturally pleasant, the Sun never shone on a better Country; but, alas! they seem to mourn for the Neglect put upon them by the insulting _Barbarian_. Here we had our Fill of choice Sea-fishes, which were even taken in our Sight.

When I lodged in those Inns the _Turks_ call _Imaret_, I usually observed, that the Cracks of the Walls were all full of Pieces of Paper; and thinking something was the Matter, but not knowing what, I took out some of them, and finding nothing writ therein of any Consequence, I was more earnest to know of the _Turks_ the Reason of their so doing; especially as I had observed the same Thing in other Places of _Turkey_ before. At first they scrupled to tell me, as thinking perhaps that I would not believe them; or else, not being willing to impart so great a Mystery of Things to such an Alien as myself. This made me the more inquisitive, till at last some of them, with whom I became more familiar, told me, That the _Turks_ gave a great deal of Difference to Paper, because the Name of God may be written in it: And, therefore, they will not suffer the least Bit of Paper to lie upon the Ground, but presently they take it up, and thrust it into some Chink or Hole or other, that so it may not be trampled under Foot; and hitherto, perhaps, their Superstition may be tollerable, but mark what follows.

In the Day of Judgment, say they, when _Mahomet_ shall call up his Followers from their _Purgatory_, (to which they were condemned for their Sins) to Heaven, to be there made Partakers of Eternal Blessedness; there will no Way be left for them to come to their Prophet, but over an huge red-hot Iron Grate, which they must run over bare-foot, (how painfully, you may guess, when you imagine a Cock to skip thro’ hot-burning Coals.) But at that Instant, (believe it if you can!) all those Bundles of Papers, which they have preserved from being trod upon, will immediately appear, and put themselves under their Feet; by which Means they will pass the red-hot Iron-Grate with less Damage; so necessary do they count the Work of saving a little Paper. And, to add to the Story, I remember that my _Turkish_ Guides were once very angry with my Servants, for making use of Paper to cleanse their _Posteriors_, and thereupon made a grievous Complaint to me of their horrid Offence therein: I had no Way to put them off, but by telling them, ’twas no Wonder my Servants did such strange Things, seeing they also used to eat Swines Flesh, which the _Turks_ abhor. Thus I have given you a Taste of the _Turkish_ Superstition; I shall add, That they account it a damnable Sin, if any of their own People chance (though unwillingly) to sit upon the _Alcoran_, (which is a Book containing the Rites of their Religion) and, if a _Christian_ do it, ’tis Death by their Law. Moreover, they will not suffer _Rose-Leaves_ to lie upon the Ground, because, as the Ancients did fable, the Roses spring out of the Blood of _Venus_; so the _Turks_ hold, That it had its Rise from the Sweat of _Mahomet_.

I came to _Constantinople_ on the 20th Day of _January_, and there found my Collegues above-mentioned, _Anthony Wrantzius_ and _Francis Zay_; as for the _Grand Seignior_ himself, he was, at that Time, at the Head of his Army in _Asia_, and had only left at _Constantinople_, _Ebrahim Bashaw_, an Eunuch, as Governor of the City, and _Rustan_, but deprived of his Vizier-ship; however I gave him a Visit and made him Presents, as being mindful of his former Dignity, and of the fair Prospect there was of his speedy Restitution thereunto.

It may, perhaps, divert you, and besides it is not wholly foreign to my Design, to acquaint you how this _Rustan_ came to be strip’d of all his former Honours. Know then, That _Solyman_ had a Son, called _Mustapha_, on a Concubine of his, born by the _Bosphorus_, (if I mistake not.) This Youth was in the prime of his Age, and in great Favour among the Soldiers. But the same _Solyman_ had several other Children by _Roxolana_, whom he doated on so much, that he made her his Wife, by appointing her a Dowry; for that’s the Way of making and confirming a Marriage among the _Turks_. This _Solyman_ did, contrary to the Custom of former Emperors, none of which had ever married a Wife, since the Days of _Bajazet_ the Elder; the Reason was, because the said _Bajazet_, being overthrown by _Tamerlane_, was, with his Wife, taken Prisoner by him, where he suffered many Indignities, but none affected him more, than the Uncivilities and Reproaches which he saw offered to his _Sultaness_, before his Face. The Memory of which Affronts made such a deep Impression on all those that succeeded _Bajazet_ in the Empire, that, to this very Day, none of them will marry a Wife, that so, whatever Chance should happen, they might never fall into the like Indignity; so that, ever since, they beget Children on Women of a servile Condition, in whose Misfortunes they may be less concerned, than if they were their lawful Wives. And yet the Children begot on such Concubines, are as much esteemed by the _Turks_, as if they were born in lawful Wedlock, and they have as much right to their Fathers Estates.

So then, _Mustapha_, being of a promising Ingenuity, and in the Flower of his Age; and besides, being the Darling of the Soldiers, and the common People too, having so many favourable Circumstances attending him, he, after his Father’s Death, was by the Votes of all designed for his Successor in the Empire.

On the other Side, his Stepmother, _Roxalana_, with Might and Main, laboured to prevent it, and to secure the Empire for the Children begotten on her own Body, and thereupon presuming on her Marriage-Relation, she ceased not to disparage _Mustapha_, and to prefer a younger Son of her own before him. In this Design _Rustan_ was both her Counsellor, and Assistant; they drew both in one Yoke, for _Rustan_ having married a Daughter of _Solyman_’s, by _Roxalana_, their Interests thereupon were reciprocal.

This _Rustan_ was the Chief of the Bashaw’s, and _Solyman_’s Prime Vizier, having the chief Power and Authority with him: He was a Man of a sharp and very capacious Wit, and a great Grace to _Solyman_’s Government. As for his Original, he was the Son but of a Shepherd, and yet he seemed worthy of that Dignity to which he was advanced, if his sordid Avarice had not been a Blot in his Escutcheon. And to speak truly, _Solyman_ himself observed this Vice in him, though upon all other Accounts, he was his choice and only Favourite: And yet this Crime of his turned to his Master’s Advantage; for being appointed by _Solyman_ to preside over his Treasury, or Exchequer, which sometimes was very low, he was so thrifty in the Management of that Office, that he did not spare to raise Money, even by the meanest and most contemptible Ways. For he laid a Tax on Herbs, Roses, and Violets, which grew in great Men’s Gardens; he caused the Armour, Coats of Mail, Warrior’s Horses, of such as were taken Prisoners in War, to be sold, and by such Ways as those he got together such a Mass of Money, that _Solyman_ was very secure on that Part; upon this Occasion, I remember, that a great Man among the _Turks_, who are usually vindictive enough, that was a great Enemy to _Rustan_, yet (to my Surprize) told me, That he would do _Rustan_ no hurt, tho’ it were never so much in his Power, because his Care and Industry had advanced his Master’s Treasury to so prodigious a Sum. There is a Chamber in the _Seraglio_, at _Constantinople_, over which there is this Inscription, _Here is the Cash obtained by the Diligence of ~Rustan~_.

When _Rustan_ was Grand Vizier, and had the intire Administration of all Things in his Hands, he was able to turn his Master’s Mind, as he pleased, so that ’twas commonly reported among the _Turks_, That partly by the Accusation of _Rustan_, and partly by the Witchcraft of his Wife _Roxolana_, (for she was accounted little better than a Sorceress) _Solyman_ was so alienated from his Son _Mustapha_, that he took Counsel to put him to Death. As to what some alledge, that _Mustapha_ being sensible of the Designs of _Rustan_ and his Step-Mother _Roxolana_, against his Life, did labour to preserve them, by taking off his Father, and so seizing the Empire by force; very few do believe that Story, but look upon it as a Fiction.

On this Occasion, let me tell you, that the Sons of the _Turkish_ Emperors are the miserablest Creatures in the World; for if any one of them succeed his father in the Empire, the rest are inevitably put to Death by him. For the _Turks_ cannot endure any Corrival in Government; and besides they are egged on to this severity by their _Prætorian_ Bands, (_Janizaries_ and _Spahies_) who, as long as there is any one of the _Grand Seigniors_ Brothers alive, never cease craving of Largesses and Boons, and if the present Emperor refuses to grant them, they presently cry out, _God save your Brother, God send your Brother a long Life_; by which Words, they more than intimate their Wishes, that he were on the Throne. So that the _Turkish_ Emperors are in a manner compelled to put their Brethren to Death, and so begin their Reign with Blood. But _Mustapha_ was afraid of such a fatal end; or else _Roxolana_ was willing to translate the said Destiny from her own Children upon _Mustapha_: Upon one or other of these Grounds, it was, that _Solymon_ entertain’d the thought of putting his Son _Mustapha_ to Death. And the occasion fell out opportunely, for he had War at that Time, with _Sagthama_ King of the _Persians_, thither _Rustan_ was sent with a vast Army. When he drew near to the Borders of _Persia_, upon a sudden he made a stop, and wrote back fearful Missives to _Solyman_, telling him, _That the whole Empire was in great hazard, there was nothing but Treason studied in the Army, they all cry’d out ~A Mustapha! A Mustapha!~ yea, the Disease was grown to such a height, that ’twas past his skill to cure it; and therefore the Emperor himself must come immediately, if he would have the Crown sit safe on his Head._

_Solyman_ was mightily disturb’d at the News, and therefore posted away for the Army, and sends Letters to _Mustapha_ to come to him, to purge himself from those Crimes, whereof he was formerly suspected, but now openly accused; if he could do it, he told him, he need not fear to approach his Presence. Upon the Receipt of this Letter, _Mustapha_ was in a great Streight, if he should go to his Father, in such an angry Mood, he ran upon his Death; if he refused, that would be interpreted, as a plain Confession of the objected Crimes. Under this Dilemma, he resolved upon that course, which as it had more of Resolution in it, so it was fullest of Danger. Away goes he from _Amasia_, of which he was Governor, to his Father’s Camp, which was pitch’d not far from the place. This he did either out of confidence of his own Innocency, or else presuming on the Assistance of the Army, if any Severity were meditated against him; whatever was the Motive of his Journey, this is certain, that he run unavoidably upon his own Destruction; For _Solyman_ ever since he was at _Constantinople_, had resolved to put his Son to Death; and to make the Matter more plausable, he consulted the _Mufty_, (so the _Turks_ call the chief of their Priests, as _Romanists_ call theirs the Pope,) and that he might not speak to him in favour of _Mustapha_, he propounded to him a feign’d Case, thus, ‘There was a Wealthy Merchant at _Constantinople_, who having occasion to Travel a long Journey from Home, left the care of his Family, his Wife and Children, and all his Affairs to a Slave of his, in whose Fidelity he put a great deal of Confidence; now this Slave, immediately after his departure, designed to destroy his Masters Wife and Children, committed to his Care, and Embezil his Estate, and to work against his Masters own Life, in case he should ever get him into his Power; What may be Lawfully done, said he, to the _Mufty_, with such a Slave.’ _He deserves_ says the _Mufty_ _to be Rack’d to Death._ Whether he spoke really as he thought, or whither he did not do it to curry favour with _Rustan_ and _Roxolana_; This is certain, that the Resolution of the _Grand Seignior_ was greatly confirmed thereby to put his Son to Death, for he was of Opinion, _Mustapha_’s Offence against him, was as great, as that supposed Slaves against his Master. However it were, _Mustapha_ came into his Fathers Camp, the whole Army being very sollicitous about the event of their Congress.

Soon after he was brought into his Fathers Tent, where all things were hush; not a Soldier of the Guards to be seen, no Serjeant, no Executioner in view, nor nothing of Treachery that was visible; but when he was come into an inner Tent, Lo! upon a sudden, there started up four Mutes, strong and lusty Fellows to be his Executioners; they set upon him with all their strength and might, and endeavoured to cast a Cord about his Neck; he defended himself stoutly for a while, (for he was a Robust young Man,) as if he had contended not only for Life, but for the Empire. For without Question, if he had escaped that danger, and had come in among the _Janizaries_, they either out of Affection to him, whom they dearly Loved; or else moved with the Indignity of the Thing, would not only have saved his Life, but have gone near to have Proclaimed him Emperor: And that was the very thing, which _Solyman_ fear’d of all things in the World; and therefore perceiving, as he stood behind a Linnen Vail in the Tent to behold the Tragedy, that unexpected stop was put to his Bloody Design; he peep’d out his Head, and gave the Mutes such a sour and minacious Look, in reproach of their remisness; thereupon they assaulted him with renew’d Force, and then threw poor _Mustapha_ down on the Ground, and Strangled him; and after they had done, they carried his Corps out of the Tent, and laid it on a piece of Tapestry, that so the _Janizaries_ might behold their design’d Emperor.

As soon as the Matter was divulged, Commiseration and Grief seized on the whole Camp, and there was scarce a Man of any Consideration in the whole Army, that did not approach to behold so sad a Spectacle, especially the _Janizaries_, whose Confirmation and Rage was such, that they would have ventured to attempt any Manner of Mischief whatsoever, if they had had a Leader. As for him whom they hoped to be their Conductor, he lay dead on the Ground, and therefore now there was no Way but one, to take that patiently which was past all Remedy.

Thus they silently departed with blubber’d Eyes, and sad Hearts, to their Tents, where they both lamented and pitied the woful Fate of unhappy _Mustapha_, sometimes inveighing against the Madness and Rage of his old doating Father, at other Times exclaiming at the Fraud and Cruelty of his Step-Mother, and anon cursing the Wickedness of _Rustan_, with direful Imprecations for extinguishing so great a Light of the _Ottoman_ Family, so that all that Day was a Fasting-day to them, they did not sip so much as a drop of Water; yea, some of them continued their Abstinence for many Days after. In short, there was such a Face of Mourning over the whole Army, which was not like to cease in many Days, that _Solyman_ in Policy, and in a seeming Compliance with the Sentiments of his People, deprived _Rustan_ of his Office (it being thought by his own Consent) and Banished him, as a private Person to _Constantinople_, substituting _Achmat_ Bashaw to the _Grand-Vizier-ship_ in his Room, a Man of more Courage than Conduct.

Upon this Alteration, the public Grief was somewhat abated, and the Soldiers Rage pacified; for the Commonalty was made to believe, That _Solyman_ at last had found out the Wickedness of _Rustan_, and the Inchantments of his Wife; and that now he repented, though it were late, first of his Cruelty to _Mustapha_. and thereupon had banished _Rustan_ from his Presence, and that he would not spare his Wife neither, as soon as he came to _Constantinople_. As for _Rustan_, he pretended great Sorrow, and departed to _Constantinople_, without seeming to have the least hope, ever to be restored to his former Dignity.

But alas! _Roxolana_ was not content with the Destruction of _Mustapha_, as long as he had an only Son, who was yet in his Minority, alive; for she did not think her own, or her Childrens Security, to be sufficiently provided for, as long as any of _Mustapha_’s Race were alive; but she wanted a fair pretence to accomplish her Design, nor was it long before she found One. She represented to _Solyman_, that as often as his Grand-child, _Mustapha_’s Son went abroad at _Prusa_, where he was brought up, the Youth of that City were wont to flock about him, to wish him all Happiness, and particularly to pray, _That he might long survive his Father_. And whither (said she) can this tend, but to prompt him to mount the Throne, and revenge his Father’s Death? And to be sure, the _Janizaries_ will take his Part, (added She;) and thus the Death of _Mustapha_ alone, will add little Security to the public Peace and Tranquility. Religion (proceeded she) is to be preferred before even the Lives of our own Children; and seeing that of the _Musselmans_, (for so they call their Religion, as counting it the best) stands and falls with the _Ottoman_ Family; if that House fail, farewel Religion also. And how can that House stand, if Domestic Discord undermine it? And therefore Sir, if you prevent the Ruin of your House, your Empire and your Religion, you must use all manner of means; nay, you must not stick at Parricide itself; if homebred Disagreement and Feud may be thereby prevented; for the safety of Religion will over-ballance the Loss, even of a Man’s own Children. As for _Mustapha_’s Son, you have the less Reason to spare him, because his Father’s Crime hath already infected him, and there is do doubt, but, if he be suffered to Live, he will soon endeavour to Head a Party, to revenge his Father’s Death.

By these Reasons _Solyman_ was induced to yield to the Murder of his Grandchild, and thereupon sent _Ebrahim_ Bashaw to _Prusa_, to destroy the innocent Youth. As soon as the Bashaw came thither, he made it his great Business to conceal his intended Design from the Child’s Mother; for, he thought, it would be look’d upon as an inhuman Thing in him, to cut off a Youth, with the Privity of his Mother, and, as it were, before her Eyes. And, besides, he was afraid the People would rise in Arms upon the Perpetration of so cruel a Fact; and therefore at first, Fox like, he sets his Wits at work to deceive the Mother. He pretended that he was sent by _Solyman_, out of Respect to her and her Son, to visit them; that his Master saw his Error in putting his Son to Death, which he now, too late repented of; but that the crueller he had been to the Father, the more indulgent he would be to his Son; and many such colloguing Words he used, whereby he imposed upon the too credulous Mother, who was the rather induced to believe him, because of _Rustan_’s Disgrace and Fall; and to crown his Flattery, he presented them with many Gifts. This past on for a Day or two, and then some Discourse was administred concerning their going abroad, out of the City, to enjoy the fresh Air. And the Bashaw, being an Eunuch, persuaded her the next Day to take a Turn in the Suburbs, she in her Coach, and himself, with her Son, would ride afore on Horseback. The Matter seemed not to afford any Suspicion, and therefore she consented, and a Chariot is prepared for her; but (mark the Fraud!) the Axle-Tree of the Coach was so made, on Purpose, that it must needs break, when it came to be jogged in any rough Way. Thus she, in an unlucky Time, began her Journey out of the City. The Eunuch and the Child rode a pretty Way before, as if they had Occasion for some private Discourse, and the Mother speeded after as fast as she was able; but when the Coach came to the designed craggy Place, the Wheel violently hit against the Rocks, and so the Axle-Tree broke. This the Mother looked upon as an unlucky Omen, and therefore, in a great Fright, she could not long be restrained from leaving her Coach, and with a few of her Maids, from following her Son on Foot. But, alas! ’twas too late; for the Eunuch being come to the House designed for the Slaughter, without any more ado, shewed the Child the Emperor’s Mandate for his Death. He answered, according to the Principles of their Religion, That he looked upon that Command as proceeding not from the Emperor, but from God, which must necessarily be obeyed, and so he yielded his Neck to the Bow-String.

Thus died this innocent and hopeful Youth. When the Eunuch had perpetrated this wicked Fact, he stole out at a Back-door, and fled as fast as he could. The Mother, soon after, beginning to smell out the Fraud, knocks at the Door; when they thought fit they opened it, and there she saw her Son sprawling on the Ground, his Breath being yet hardly out of his Body. Here let me draw a Vail; for a Mother’s Affection to a Son in such a lamentable Juncture, may be better conceived than expressed. Upon this dismal Sight she was hurried back to _Prusa_, where she tore her Hair, rent her Garments, filled the whole Town with Howlings, Moans, &c. The _Prusian_ Ladies, with their Daughters and Waiting-Maids, came in Multitudes to her, and were stark Mad to hear of so great a Butchery; and running in that raving Manner out of the Gates, all the Cry was, _Where’s the Eunuch? Where’s the Eunuch? Let’s have him to tear him to pieces_: But he foreseeing what would happen, and fearing, like another _Orpheus_, to be torn Peace-meal by those raging Furies, had cunningly withdrawn himself.

But to return to my Purpose. As soon as I came to _Constantinople_, Letters were sent to _Solyman_, then at _Amasia_, to acquaint him with my Arrival; and, till his Answer was return’d, I had Leisure to take a View of the City of _Constantinople_; and first, I had a Mind to visit the Temple of St. _Sophia_, which I was not admitted to do, but by special Favour; for the _Turks_ think that their Temples are prophaned, if a _Christian_ do but put his Foot within them.

That Church is a magnificent Pile, and a worthy Structure to behold. It hath a great Arch or Hemisphere in the Middle, which hath no Light but only from the Sky: All the _Turkish Mosks_ are built after the Form of this. Some say, that heretofore it was much larger, and contained many Apartments, which were all destroyed by the _Turks_, and only the _Quire_ and _Nave_, in the Middle of it, standing.

As for the Situation of the City itself, it seemed to me, to be naturally placed as fit to be the Mistress of the World; it stands in _Europe_, and hath _Asia_ in view, and on its right, hath _Egypt_ and _Africa_; which, though Countries not adjacent to it, yet by reason of frequent Intercourse and Naval Commerce, they seem as it were, contiguous. On its left Hand is the _Euxin Sea_, and the _Palus Mætis_, whose Banks are inhabited round about by many Nations, and so many navigable Rivers have their Influx into them, that there is nothing grows in any of the Countries thereabout, fit for Man’s Use; but there is a great Conveniency of transporting it by Sea to _Constantinople_.

On the one Side, it is wash’d with the _Propontis_; on the other, the River makes an Haven, which _Strabo_ calls, _The Golden Horn_, from the Similitude it hath to an Horn; on the other Side, it is joined to the rest of the Continent, so that it almost resembles a Peninsule; and with the continued back of a Promontory, it runs out into the Sea and a Bay, which is made there by the River and the Sea. So that from the middle of _Constantinople_, there is a most pleasant Prospect into the Sea, and even to the Mount _Olympus_, in _Asia_, which bears a snowy Head all the Year long. The Sea there, is wonderful full of Fish, which sometimes swim down from the _Mæotis_ and the _Euxine_, through the _Bosphorus_ and _Propontis_, into the _Ægæan_ and _Mediterranean Seas_, and sometimes they swim from thence into the _Euxin_, according to the Nature of the Fish; and that in Shoals so thick and numerous, that you may catch them with your Hands. So that here is excellent fishing for _Mackrel_, _Tunny_, _Cod_, _Porpois_ and _Sword-Fish_. But the _Greeks_ fish more than the _Turks_, though these latter love Fish well enough; provided, they be of the Number of those, which they count _clean_; as for others, they had rather eat Poison than taste them, for a _Turk_ had rather his Tongue or his Teeth were pluck’d out of his Head, than taste of any Thing they think to be _unclean_, as a _Frog_, a _Snail_, or a _Tortoise_. And herein, the _Greeks_ are every jot as Superstitious as they; of which I will give you the Instance following.

I entertain’d in my Family, a Youth of the _Greek_ Religion; I employed him as my Steward. The rest of my Servants could never persuade him to eat any _Periwinkles_ or _Cockles_; but at last, they put a Trick upon him; they caused them to be so high-season’d and disguis’d, that he, mistaking them for another sort of Fish, fed upon them most heartily. Whereupon, my People set up a Laughter, and threw down the Shells before him, where by he perceiv’d himself to be cozen’d: Whereupon, ’tis incredible to relate how much he was troubled. He went presently to his Chamber, and there fell a Vomiting, Weeping, and Afflicting himself most grievously, without any Intermission; insomuch, that two Months Sallary was not sufficient to expiate this Offence; for that’s the Guise of _Greek_ Priests, according to the kind and greatness of the Offence, they lay a pecuniary Mulct upon those who come to _Confess_, and they never _Absolve_ them till they pay it down to a Penny.

In the furthest Point of that Promontory which I mentioned before, stands the Palace, or _Seraglio_, of the _Turkish_ Emperors: To me, it did not seem very magnificent, either for Work or Workmanship (for you must know, that as yet, I had not made an Entrance into it.) Under the Palace, in a low Ground, and as it were, upon the Sea-shore, are the Gardens of the _Grand Seignior_, where the greatest Part of _Old Bysantium_ is thought to have stood.

I hope you do not expect to be informed by me, why the _Chalcedonians_, who built a City over-against _Byzantium_ (the Ruins whereof are yet to be seen) were Sirnam’d _The Blind_; nor shall I tell you the Nature of that Sea, which always runs downward with a vast Stream, but never recoils with any Tide; nor will I spend Time to speak of those _Hautgis_ which were brought to _Constantinople_ from the _Palus Mæotis_, such as the _Italians_ call _Moronella’s Botargues_ and _Caviare_; the Description of all these Particulars would swell my Epistle to too great a Bulk, and besides, it would be needless; for both the _Antients_, and also _Modern_ Writers, have given Information of those Particulars at large.

To return then to the Site of _Constantinople_. There is no Place in the World more pleasantly seated to the Eye, nor more convenient for Trade. But, let me tell you, the Buildings therein (as in all other _Turkish_ Cities) are not magnificent, nor are their Streets stately or large; nay, in _Constantinople_, they are so narrow, that they much eclipse the Beauty of the Place. Yet there are in it some valuable Relicks of old Monuments to be seen; but not so many as a Man would imagine, considering how many _Constantine_ brought thither from _Rome_. It is not my Purpose to insist upon each of these Particulars; yet, a Word or two of the principal ones.

In the _Area_ of the old _Hippodrome_, there are two Serpents cut in Brass; as also, a mighty _Obelisk_. Moreover, _Constantinople_ doth gratifie us with the Sight of two memorable Pillars; _One_ over-against the _Caravaserai_, where I lodged, and the _Other_ in the _Forum_, called by the _Turks_, _Aurat-basar_, i. e. _The Womens Court_, wherein, from Bottom to Top, is engraven the History of a certain Expedition of one _Arcadius_, who built it, and whose Statue, for a long time, stood on the Top of it. And yet it may rather be called a _Stair-Case_, than a _Pillar_, because it goes winding up like a Pair of Stairs. I caused the Shape of this Pillar to be drawn, which I have by me. But the other Pillar, over-against the House the _German_ Ambassadors used to lodge in, the whole Structure, besides the Basis and the Chapiter, consists of eight solid Marble or Red _Porphyry_ Stones, so curiously joined together, that they seem but one continued Stone. For, where the Stones are jointed one into another, upon that Commissure, there is wrought a circular Garland of Lawrels round about the Pillar, which hides the jointing, so that they which look upon it from the Ground, perceive no jointing at all. That Pillar hath been so often shaken by Earthquakes, and so battered by Fires happening near it, that it is cleft in many Places, and they are forced to bind it about with Iron Hoops, that it may not fall to pieces.

They say, That the Statue of _Apollo_ once stood upon that Pillar, and that afterwards the Statues of _Constantine_, and of _Theodosius_ the Elder, were erected there; but they are all thrown down, either by the Force of the Winds, or by Earthquakes.

The _Greeks_ tell this Story concerning the _Obelisk_, in the _Hippodrome_, which I mentioned before, _viz._

That it fell from its Basis, and lay for many Ages upon the Ground; but in the Time of the later Emperors, there was an Architect found, who undertook to raise it up to its Place; but he demanded a vast Reward for his Pains. After the Price was agreed on, he prepared abundance of Ropes, Pullies, and other Instruments, and by those means, he lifted up that vast Stone, within one Inch of the Place where it was to stand; but his present _Apparatus_ being able to raise it no higher, the People, who in great Numbers were his Spectators, were of Opinion, that all his former Cost and Pains were lost, and he must begin anew to try to do the Feat some other way, to his vast Expence and Charge. The Artist himself was not discouraged; but being skilful in _Mechanick Philosophy_, he caused abundance of Water to be brought up to him, which, for many Hours, he cast upon the Ropes, to which the _Obelisk_ hung; and those Ropes, being often wet and dry, shrunk a little, and by that means, lifted up the Weight to its designed Station, to the great Admiration and Applause of the Vulgar.

At _Constantinople_ I saw several Sorts of wild Beasts, such as _Lynxes_, _Cat-a-Mountains_, _Panthers_, _Leopards_, and _Lyons_; but they were so gentle and tame, that I saw one of the Keepers pull a _Sheep_ out of a _Lyon_’s Mouth, so that he only moistened his Jaws with the Blood, without devouring it. I saw also a young _Elephant_, so wanton, that he would dance, and play at Ball. Sure you cannot chuse but laugh, when I tell you of an _Elephant_’s dancing and playing at Ball; but if I should say no more, why may you not believe me as well as _Seneca_, who tells us of one that could dance upon the Rope? Or as _Pliny_, who speaks of another that understood _Greek_? But that you may not think me an egregious Forger, give me leave to explain myself: When this _Elephant_ was bid to dance, he did so caper or quaver with his whole Body, and interchangeably move his Feet, that he seemed to represent a kind of a Jig; and as for playing at Ball, he very prettily took up the Ball in his Trunk, and sent it packing therewith, as we do with the Palm of the Hand.

Among those wild Beasts, there had been a _Camelopardalis_, but she died a little before I came to _Constantinople_; however, I caused her Bones, which had been buried in the Earth, to be digged up, that I might inspect the Make of this Creature. It is an Animal a great deal taller in the Forepart than in the Hinder; and, for that Reason, it is unfit to carry a Man, or any other Burden. It hath an Head and a Neck like a _Camel_, but a spotted Skin like a _Leopard_, and therefore it is called by a Name derived from both, (_i. e._) _Camelopardalis_.

It might have been imputed as a Piece of great Neglect in me, not to have visited the _Euxine_, especially as I had an Opportunity of sailing thither; seeing the Ancients used to account it as great a Piece of Curiosity to see _Pontus_, as to visit _Corinth_. Thither, therefore, I sailed with a prosperous Gale, and had the Privilege to be admitted into some of the Pleasure-Houses of the _Grand Seignior_.

In the Valves of one of them, I beheld the famous Fight of _Selimus_ with _Ishmael_ King of the _Persians_, excellently described in Checker-Work. I had also the View of many of the Orchards and Groves of the _Turkish_ Emperor, which were seated in most pleasant Vallies. This I may say of them, That they ow’d little to Art, but almost all to Nature; so that I could not chuse but entertain such _Epiphonema’s_ as these in my Thoughts, O most pleasant Houses for Nymphs! O choise Seats for the Muses! O Retirements fit for the Learned! To deal plainly with you (as I told you before) they seemed to me, as it were, sensibly to bewail their present Posture, and to cry aloud to _Christians_ for their better Cultivation; and not they only, but much more _Constantinople_ itself, yea, and all _Greece_ too; which being, heretofore, the most flourishing Country in the World, is now wofully enslaved by _Barbarians_. Formerly it was the Mother and Nurse of all good Arts and liberal Sciences, but now, alas! it seems to call for that Culture and Humanity which once it delivered down to us; and, by Way of Requital, claims the Redemption of our common Religion from that _Scythian Barbarism_ under which it groans; and call it may long enough, for (with Grief may we speak it) _Christian_ Princes, now a-days, are otherwise employed; so that the _Turks_ do not more domineer over the poor _Greeks_, than Vices, such as Luxury, Gluttony, Sloth, Lust, Pride, _&c._ do over _Christians_, which so clog, enervate, and depress our Minds, that we can hardly look Heaven-ward, or aspire to any Thing that is truly Great and Excellent.

Methinks, Duty and Piety should have been sufficient Motives to us to help our afflicted Brethren; but if we had been proof against those Incentives, so that neither brave nor praise-worthy Actions could unthaw our frozen Courage; yet Profit and Advantage, which are now the great Bias of the World, might have stirred us up to recover such opulent and commodious Countries from Infidels, and to possess them ourselves: But, on the contrary, we plow the Ocean, even as far as the _Indies_, and the very _Antipodes_, because there we get rich Prey and Spoil at a cheap Rate, even without Bloodshed, by imposing on the simple and uncrafty _Indians_. ’Tis true, we pretend the Conversion of the _Heathens_, but, if we go to the Root of the Matter, (to our Shame be it spoken) ’tis their Gold, not their Godliness, is the Gain we seek for. Our Ancestors carried it at quite another Rate, who did not, like trading Merchants, seek after those Places where there was most Wealth, but where there was greater Opportunity for noble and virtuous Atchievements; so that it was not Profit, but Honour, which put them upon hazardous and remote Expeditions: And when they came home, they were more laden with Glory than with Plunder. I speak this in your Ear; for others, perhaps, may think it a peculiar thing in me, to detract from the Manners of the present Age. But, let them think what they will, I see that the Arrow is drawn to the Head to destroy us; and I am afraid, that we, who would not fight for Glory, shall be forced to do it to save our Lives. But to return to _Pontus_.

The _Turks_ call the _Euxine_, _Caradenis_, (i. e.) _The Black Sea_. It falls down thro’ narrow Streights into the _Thracian Bosphorus_, where its Waters are tossed up and down by many Vortices, Turnings, and Windings, occasioned by several Promontories jutting out into it; and thus, in one Day’s Passage, it descends to _Constantinople_, and from thence, almost by the like strait Passage, it breaks out into the _Propontis_. In the Middle of the Bay, where it makes its Influx into the _Bosphorus_, there is a Rock with an erected Pillar, in the Basis whereof is writ the Name of a certain _Roman_, called _Octavian_, (if my Memory fail not) in _Latin_ Letters.

On the _European_ Shore there is a Tower, called _Pharos_, where they hang out Lights in the Night, to guide Sailors by. Not far from this Place, a River falls into the Sea, in the Channel whereof there are found Stones, little inferior to _Onyxes_ or _Sardonyxes_, and, if they be polished, are as shining as they. A few Miles from that Bay, which I lately spoke of, we may see those Streights over which _Darius_ wasted his Army against the _European Scythians_: And about the Middle, between the two Mouths of the _Bosphorus_, there are two Castles, one of which is in _Europe_, and the other on the opposite Shore, in _Asia_. This latter was possessed by the _Turks_ long before _Mahomet_ took _Constantinople_. The other was built by him some few Years after he became Master of that City. The _Turks_ make use of it, at this Day, as a Prison for the nobler Sort of their Captives. _Lazarus_, a Commander, or Prince of the _Epitots_ not long ago was taken Prisoner by the _Turks_, together with some _Spaniards_ at _Castlenovo_, and committed to this Tower; from whence making his Escape, and being retaken, he was impal’d, (_i. e._) put to a most cruel Death, by having a Pole thrust thro’ his Body, from his Fundament to his very Neck; yet he indured it with incredible Patience.

Perhaps you expect that I should here give you an Account of those floating Islands, called _Cyaneæ_ or _Symplegades_. But, to deal freely with you, those few Hours that I spent on the _Pontus_, I saw no such Islands at all; whether they had been carried to any other Place, I know not: If you desire to have a more particular Information concerning them, you may consult _Peter Gyllius_, who was an exact Enquirer into such Curiosities; for my Part, I shall record only what I saw, or know to be true. Yet I think it is not fit for me to conceal a Mistake that _Polybius_ is guilty of; for he proposes many Arguments, to prove that, in Tract of Time, the _Euxine_ will be choaked up with Sand and other Trash, brought in by the _Danow_, the _Borysthenes_, and other great Rivers falling into it, that it would be made unfit for Navigation; whereas, the contrary appeared to me; for that Sea is every jot as navigable, at this Day, as it was of old in the Days of _Polybius_. And though he seemed to have some Grounds for his Opinion, that to him were irrefragable, yet Time hath shewed them to be weak. The like Observation holds in other Cases; for, of old, who would not believe the Ancients, who affirmed, upon seemingly imaginable Grounds, That the Torrid Zone was inhabitable? whereas, later Discoveries have fully convinced us, That those hot Countries are as well inhabited as any other Part of the Terrestial Globe; nay, when the Sun is at the highest with them, and darts down its Rays perpendicularly upon them; even at that very Time the Ardency of the Heat is so tempered and cooled by continued Rains, that those Countries are rendered very fit for human Habitations. But to return.

After the _Grand Seignior_ was informed, by Letters, of my Arrival (as I said before) he sent to the Governor of _Constantinople_, intimating his Pleasure, that he should send us to him into _Asia_, as far as the City of _Amasia_, or (as it is writ on ancient Coins) _Amazeia_, where he then was. Upon this Advice we prepared all Things for our Journey; and, with our Guides, on the 9th of _March_ we were wafted over into _Natolia_, (for so the _Turks_ call _Asia_ at this Day.) That Day we went no farther than _Scutari_, a Town on the _Asiatick_ Shore, opposite to Old _Byzantium_; where, or very little above it, the noble City of _Chalcedon_ was formerly thought to stand. The _Turks_ were of Opinion, That when our Horses, Coaches, Baggage, and Train, together with ourselves, were all got over the _Hellespont_, ’twas enough for one Day’s Journey; especially considering, that if we had forgot any of the necessary Accoutrements for our Journey, or had left them behind at _Constantinople_, (as it sometimes happened) we might bethink ourselves before we went any farther, and fetch them over. The next Day we continued our Journey from _Scutari_, over fragrant Fields, full of odoriferous Plants, and especially _Stæchas’s_, a sweet smelling Spike. There we saw a vast Number of _Tortoises_, stalking over all the Field, without any Fear at all. We had certainly seized upon a great many of them, as a Prey grateful to our Palates, had it not been for our _Turkish_ Guides, whom we were afraid to disoblige; for if they had seen any of them brought to our Table, much more, if they had touched them, they would have thought themselves so defiled, that I know not how many Washings would not have cleansed their imagined Pollution. For, as I told you before, the _Turks_, and the _Greeks_ too, are so superstitious, that they abhor ever to touch of that Animal; so that, it being no hurtful Creature, and no body endeavouring to catch them, the whole Country abounds with _Tortoises_. I kept one of them by me a great while, which had two Heads, and it would have lived much longer, if I had been as careful of it as I might. That Day’s Journey brought us to a Village, called _Cartaly_, which I mention, because I shall, for the future, gratify you with the Knowledge of the several Stages of this Voyage. For tho’ the Journey from _Vienna_ to _Constantinople_ hath been performed by many, yet this from _Constantinople_ to _Amasia_, hath, as yet, been undergone by no _Christian_ that I know of. From _Cartaly_ we came to _Gabise_, a Town of _Bithynia_, which some think was anciently called _Libyssa_, and is famous for the Sepulchre of _Hannibal_, who was there interred. From thence there is a most pleasant Prospect into the Sea, and into the Bay of _Nicomedia_; here also grow _Cyprus_ Trees of a wonderful Bulk and Tallness.

Our fourth Day’s Journey from _Constantinople_ brought us to _Nicomedia_, a City, anciently of great Note; but we saw nothing remarkable in it, but the Ruins and Rubbish of old Walls, with some broken Pieces of Pillars with their Chapiters, which were all the Remainders of its ancient Splendor, except one Castle on an Hill, which was somewhat more entire. A little before we came to this Place, some Workmen, that were digging under Ground, discovered a long Wall made with Marble, which (it may be) was part of the ancient Palace of the Kings of _Bithynia_.

From _Nicomedia_, we passed over a Cliff or Ridge of Mount _Olympus_, and came to a Village called _Kasockly_, and from thence to _Nice_; but it was so late before we came thither, that the first Watch was set. Not far from that Place, I heard a mighty Noise, as if it had been of Men that jeer’d and mock’d us. I asked what was the Matter? Whether any of the Mariners, rowing on the Lake _Ascanius_, (which was not far off) did deride us, for travelling at that unusual Time of Night? I was answered, No, but it was only the howling of certain Beasts, which the _Turks_ call _Ciacals_, or _Jacals_. They are a Sort of Wolves, somewhat bigger than Foxes, but less than common Wolves; yet as greedy and devouring as the most ravenous Wolves or Foxes of all. They go in Flocks, and seldom or never hurt either Man or Beast, but get their Food by Craft and Stealth, more than by open Force. Thence it is, that the _Turks_ call subtle and crafty Persons, especially the _Asiaticks_, by the Metaphorical Name of _Ciacals_. Their Manner is to enter into the Tents or Houses of the _Turks_, in the Night-Time, and what they can catch that is eatable, that they eat; and if they find nothing else to devour, then they fall a gnawing of all Kinds of Leather Things, as Shoes, Boots, Girdles, Scabbards of Swords, and the like; and they are as cunning as they are thievish; but in this they are very ridiculous, that they discover themselves by the Noise they make. For whilst they are most busy in a House, devouring their Prey, if any one of their Herd, that stays without Doors, chance to howl, they all set up a howling likewise; and thus, forgetting where they are, they raise up the People of the House, who leap out of their Beds, and cudgel them soundly.

All the next Day we staid at _Nice_; I believe my Lodging was in the same House where the Council of _Nice_ was heretofore celebrated. As for the Town itself, it is seated on the Bank of the Lake _Ascanius_. The Walls of it are almost entire, so are the Gates, which are but four, and may all may be seen from the Middle of the Market-Place; in each of them there were old Inscriptions in _Latin_, which shew that the Town was repaired by _Antoninus_: which of them I do not well remember; but sure it must be by _Antoninus_ the Emperor. There are also some Remainders of his Baths, and whilst the _Turks_ were digging out Stones from thence to build Houses at _Constantinople_, they found the Statue of a Soldier in his Armour, curiously wrought, and almost entire; but they quickly battered it with their Hammers, even in our View; and when we shewed ourselves displeased at their rude Violence, they paid us with a Jeer, _What_, said the Labourers, _will you bow down to worship this Statue, as you ~Christians~ used to do to yours?_

From _Nice_ we continued our Journey to a Place called _Jenysar_. From _Jenysar_ to _Ackbyuck_, from _Ackbyuck_ to _Bazargyck_, from _Bazargyck_ to _Bosowick_, otherwise called _Cassumbasa_, seated in the narrowest Streights of Mount _Olympus_; for almost all our Way from _Nice_ thither, lay through the Cliff of that Mountain. At _Nice_ we lodged in a _Turkish_ Inn, or Hospital, and just against it was a Rock, standing on high Ground, wherein there was a square deep Trench cut, and from the Bottom thereof there issued out a Canal, that reached to the Highway. That Trench or Ditch, the ancient Inhabitants of that Place used, in the Winter Time, to fill with Snow; that so the melted Snow-Water gently dropping down into the Road, by the fore-mentioned Canal, might quench the Thirst of parched Travellers. Such Works as these the _Turks_ count _Eleemosynary_ ones; because they are for the publick Benefit and Advantage of Mankind.

Not far from this Place, on the Right Hand, we saw a Town, called _Otmanlick_, borrowing its Name, (as I conceive) from _Ottoman_, the Founder of the _Ottoman_ Family, who lived there.

From those Streights we descended into an open Campaign; and when we came thither, we lay the first Night in our Tents, whereby the Heat did not so much incommode us, as otherwise it would have done; the Place was called _Chiausada_. The most remarkable Things we saw here, was a subterraneous House, that had no Light, but only what stole in at the Roof: We saw also that Sort of _Goats_, of whose Hair, (or Fleece, if you had rather call it so) they make the Shagreen or watered Stuff, called Camlet. If you would know the Nature of that Creature, I shall not entertain you with a Flam, but give you the true Description of it.

The Hair of this Creature is very fine, and extreamly white, and it hangs down from their Bodies to the Ground. The Goat-herds do not sheer, but kemb it off, and it is almost as fine as Silk. These _Goats_ are often washed in the neighbouring Rivers, and feed upon the Grass growing there, which is very tender and dry, and that certainly contributes much to the Fineness of their Wool; for if they are removed to another Place, their Fleece changes with their Pasture, and their Kids do so degenerate, that one would hardly think them of the same Breed. The Thread that is spun of that Hair or Wool, is carried, by the Women of that Country, to _Ancyra_, a City of _Galatia_, where it is woven into Cloth and dy’d, as I shall tell you anon.

Moreover the Sheep of those Countries have very fat and weighty Tails, (their Sheep-Flocks consist hardly of any other.) The Tail of any one of them weighs sometimes three or four Pound, and sometimes eight or ten; yea, they grow so big in some old Sheep, that they are forc’d to lay them upon a Plank, running on two little Wheels, that so they may draw them after them, not being otherwise able to trail them along.