Chapter III: Part 3

Perhaps you will think I tell you a Romance; but, take it on my Word, it is a certain Truth. I grant, such bulky Tails may be of some Advantage, because they are full of Fat; but the Flesh of the Sheep seemed more harsh and rank to me, than our own Mutton. The Shepherds that tend them lie Day and Night in the Fields, and carry their Wives and Children about with them, in Waggons, which serve them instead of Houses; only sometimes they erect small Tents to lie under. They wander far and near, sometimes in the open Campaign, sometimes over Hills, sometimes over Dales, as the Season of the Year, and the Necessity of Pasturage, doth require.

I saw also in those Countries, some Sort of Birds, unknown to us, and such as I never saw before. Among the rest, there is a Kind of _Ducks_, which gives a Sound like Trumpeters, or such as blow the Cornet; the Noise they make is almost like the Sound of a Post-Boy’s Horn. It is a Bird, which though it hath nothing wherewith to defend itself, yet is very strong and daring.

The _Turks_ are verily persuaded, that the Devils are afraid of these Birds. This is certain, they are so tenaciously sensible of their Liberty, that tho’ they have been kept up tame in a Coop, for three Years together, yet if they can but get an Opportunity to escape away, they fly to their wonted Haunts, as preferring their natural Seats before their confined Prisons, though they be cramm’d and fatten’d there.

We passed on from _Chiousada_ to _Karali_; from _Karali_ to _Hazdengri_; from thence to _Mazotthoy_; from _Mazotthoy_ we passed over the River _Sangar_, which runs into _Pontus_ out of _Phrygia_, and came to _Mahathli_, from thence to _Zugli_, thence to _Chilancyck_; from _Chilancyck_ to _Ialancich_; from thence to _Portughin_; and from _Portughin_ we reached to _Ancyra_, called by the _Turks_, _Angur_. We staid one whole Day at _Ancyra_, partly because the _Turks_ did not hasten us; for, in regard the _Persian_ Embassador made an Halt, we were desired to do so too, that we might make our Entrances, both at one Time, into _Amasia_. I saw nothing remarkable in all the Villages aforementioned, save that sometimes, among the _Turkish_ Sepulchres, we happened to see some Pillars, or ancient Stones of curious Marble, wherein there were several Remains of _Latin_ or _Greek_ Inscriptions, but so defaced, that they could not be read; which Disappointment I very much resented, for all my Delight was, as soon as I came to my Inn at Night, to enquire after old Inscriptions, together with _Latin_ and _Greek_ Coins; and sometimes for rare Kinds of Plants.

As for the Sepulchres, or Graves of the _Turks_, their Custom is, not to fill them with Earth, but throw great Stones upon them for a Covering. Would you know the Reason? ’tis Superstitious enough. The _Turks_ believe, that whenever the Devil accuses the Deceased, and calls upon him to give an Account how he spent his Life; then his good Genius will defend him, and this Stone is the Place upon which the Ghost must sit, that he may plead his Cause with more Care; and it is so huge and bulky, that Dogs, Wolves, or other ravenous Beasts, especially the _Hyænæ_, may not injure his Corps as it lies in the Earth.

The _Hyæna_ is a Beast common in these Countries; she uses to dig up Graves, and taking out the dead Bodies from thence, carries them to her Den, near which you shall see a great Heap of Bones of Men, Horses, and other Creatures. She is a little lower than a Wolf, and quite as long; she hath a Skin like a Wolf, only her Hair is rougher and full of great black Spots; her Head is contiguous to her _Spina dorsi_, without any _vertebræ_ at all; so that, when she looks backward, she must of necessity turn her whole Body: Instead of a Row of Teeth, she hath but one continued Bone. The _Turks_ do ascribe great Vertue to this Beast, in _Philtres_, as did the Antients: there were two of them at _Constantinople_, when I was there; I cheapned them, but their Owners were unwilling to sell them, because they kept them for the _Sultaness_, who was thought, by Love-Portions, and Magic Art, to have engaged her Husband’s Love to her. Here I cannot chuse but take Notice of a Mistake in _Bellonius_, who thinks the _Hyæna_ to be the same Creature with that we call the _Zibeth_ or _Musk-Cat_.

The _Turks_ have a Tradition, that the _Hyæna_, which they call _Zirtlan_, understands what Men say one to another. The Antients affirm’d, that they could also imitate Man’s Voice, and thereupon Hunters catch them by this Wile. They find out her Den, which they may easily do by the heap of Bones lying by it; and then one of them goes in with a Rope, leaving the other End of the Rope in the Hands of his Fellows without; and when he is creeping in, he cries with a loud Voice, _Joctur, Joctur, Ucala!_ i. e. _She is not here, She is not here!_ or, _I cannot find her!_ whereupon, the _Hyæna_, thinking she is not discovered, lies close, and he ties one end of the Rope about her Leg; and then he goes forth, still crying, _I cannot find her!_ but when he is escaped quite out of the Hole, he cries out aloud, _She is within, She is within!_ which the _Hyæna_ hearing, and understanding the meaning of it, leaps out, thinking to escape; but then they hold her back by the Rope, tied to her Leg, and either kill her, or, if they use Care and Diligence, lake her alive, for she is a fierce Creature, and defends herself desperately.

I found abundance of Old Coins all up and down this Country, especially of the later Emperors, _viz._ the _Constantines_, the _Constantius_’s, the _Justin_’s, the _Valens_’s, the _Valentine_’s, the _Numerian_’s, the _Probus_’s, the _Tacitus_’s, and such like. In many Places the _Turks_ use them for Weight, _viz._ of a Drachm, or half a Drachm; and they call it _Giaur Manguri_, i. e. the Money of the _Pagans_ or _Infidels_. The like Coins I found in the neighbouring Cities of _Asia_, as at _Amysus_, at _Synopis_, at _Cumana_, at _Amastris_, and _Amasia_ itself, whither we were going. There was a Brasier of that City which grieved me very much; for demanding of him, whether he had any Old Coins to sell? He answered me, That a few Days ago, he had a large Room full of them, but had melted them down to make Brass Kettles, as thinking them of little Value, and fit for no other Use. When I heard this Story, it troubled me much to lose so many choice Monuments of Antiquity; but I paid him back in his own Coin, by telling; him, That I would have given him a hundred Guilders for them; so that my Revenge was suited to his Injury; for I sent him away as sorrowful, as he did me for losing the Coins.

As for Plants, I saw very few in my Journey in those Parts, which were unknown to us in _Europe_. They were almost all of the same Kind; only they were more or less flourishing, according to the Richness or Poverty of the Soil. The _Amomum_, which, _Dioscorides_ says, grows near _Pontus_, I very diligently sought for, but in vain; so that I knew not whether that Plant did not fail in that Country, or else was transplanted into another.

This Town of _Ancyra_, was our 9th Stage from _Constantinople_. It is a Town of _Galatia_, sometimes the Seat of the _Gauls_, called by _Pliny_, _Tectosagum_; nor was it unknown to _Strabo_: Though perhaps the present Town is but part of the old Town, called in the Canons, _Anguira_. Here we saw a stately Superscription, and a Sampler of those Tables, wherein the Atchievments of _Augustus_ were summarily comprehended. I caused as much of it, as we could read, to be transcribed. It is cut in the Marble Walls of that Structure, which heretofore was the Town-hall; but is now demolished, so that one part of it is visible to those that enter on the right Hand, and the other to those that enter upon the left. The top Chapiters are almost entire; the Middle is full of Clefts, and the lowermost Part of it is so battered with Clubs and Hatchets, that it cannot be read; which Loss cannot be sufficiently lamented by all Lovers of Learning; and so much the more, because the Commons of _Asia_, dedicated this City to _Augustus_. Here also, we were Eye-witnesses of the dying of that Cloth, I spake of before, made of Goats-wool, and how they Camlet it, or give it its Water-colour; ’tis done thus. They pour Water upon it, and by means of a Cloth-press, cause it to receive that Colour. That is counted the best, which is most variegated in every part; and if, in any Piece, the Water-colours do not deeply and uniformly appear, that Piece, though of the same Colour, and made of the same Wool, is valued at some Gilders less than another, because it is not so deeply tinctured. The better sort of _Turks_, in their old Age, are usually clothed with this Sort of Cloth, and _Solyman_ himself used to wear Vests of it; but Green is a Colour disused much by _Christians_; and the rather, because the _Turks_ commend it upon a Superstituous Account, as being worn by their Prophet _Mahomet_ in his older Days.

A black Colour is counted unfortunate, and is disliked by them; and, when they see any Man so clad, they look on it as an ill _Omen_; so that when any of ours did approach the _Bashaw’s_, in a black Habit, they look’d a-squint on us, and made sad Complaints; and the Truth is, none of their own appear in black, but either one that is desperately poor, or else so overwhelm’d with some great Calamity, that he regards not what Cloaths he wears. A Purple Colour is a creditable Colour with them; only it is an Omen of much Bloodshed in Time of War: But the ordinary approved Colours among them, are the _White_, the _Yellow_, the _Sea-Green_, the _Violet-Colour_, and _Mouse-Colour_, &c.

The _Turks_ ascribe very much to _Augury_, and _Omens_, Good or Bad, so that it hath been known, that some _Bashaws_ have been removed from their Places and Offices, by reason of a Fall from their Horse; as if that were an _Omen_ of some ill Luck, which is averted from the Publick, by falling on the Head of that private and particular Person; who is thereupon degraded.

From _Ancyra_, we came to a Village called _Balygazar_, and from thence to _Zarekuct_; from _Zarekuct_ to _Zermeczii_, and to the Bank of the River _Halys_: As we past through a Village called _Algii_, we saw, at some Distance, the neighbouring Mountains of _Synopi_, which were red, like Vermillion; and from which Red Lead is called _Synopi_.

This _Halys_ is the famous River which was heretofore the Boundary of the two Kingdoms of the _Medes_ and _Lydians_; concerning which, there was an ancient Oracle, That when _Crœsus_ pass’d it to make War on the _Persians_, he should overthrow a great Empire, which fell out to be his Own; whereas he thought it would have been the _Persians_. Near the Bank of this River, there was a Wood, which seemed to us, to bear an unknown Shrub; but when we drew near, we found it to be _Liquorice_, and with the Juice of its Root, we refreshed our selves abundantly.

Near that River, we met with a Countryman, and asking him, by an Interpreter, Whether that River did abound with Fish? And how they used to catch them? He answered, That there were Fishes enough; but no Body could catch them. When he saw we wondred at his Answer, he proceeded: For, _says he_, if a Man strive to take them up in his Hands, away presently they swim, and will not stay to be catched. This Answer was the less surprizing to me, because, when we had lighted upon some unknown Birds, and demanded of the Country-men, _how we might take them?_ One or other of them told us, That they could not be taken; for if any Body endeavoured to lay Hands on them, they would fly away.

But one of my Collegues, _Francis Hay_, having some Nets with him, caused them to be cast for the catching of Fish; we took a great Draught of them, and especially the _Silurus_, or _Sheathfish_, which are common in the _Danow_. Besides, there is in that River, good Store of Sea-Crabs, or else, a Sort of Fish very like them. Whereupon, the _Turks_, who saw our Fishing, wondered at the Industry and Ingenuity of _Christians_, who would catch Fish at that Rate. Hereupon, perhaps, you will say, What, are there no Fishermen in _Turkey_? I grant there are; but very few of them live in those Parts. And, I remember, in another Place, when the _Turks_ saw us turn the Stream out of its Course to catch Gudgeons at the Bottom, they laughed much at us. _What_, said they, _do you catch such small guddling Fish? what are they good for?_ This Ninny-Hammer did not understand, that a great many of those Fishes would make a dainty Dish, enough to suffice many Guests. But the _Turks_ are so parsimonious, that they don’t study their Bellies at all; give them but Bread and Garlic, or an Onion, with a Sort of _Bonniclabber_, or sour Milk, known in _Galen_’s Time, by the Name of _Syllabub_, but called by them, _Ingurthe_; they feed like Farmers, and desire nothing more.

They make this Drink thus; they dilute this Milk with cold Water, and then cram Bread into it. This they use in the hottest Weather, and when they are more athirst; and we our selves found great Benefit by it, in our greatest Droughts. It is a Repast very grateful to the Palate and Stomach, and of admirable Vertue in quenching the most vehement Thirst: There is abundance of it ready made for Sale in all the _Turkish_ Inns, or _Caravasera’s_, as well as all other Sorts of Soop. As for hot Meat, or Flesh, the _Turks_ don’t much use them in their Travels; their usual Dyet, on the Road, are _Syllabubs_, _Cheese_, _dry’d Plumbs_, _Pears_, _Peaches_, _Quinces_, _Figs_, _Raisins_, and _Cornel-berries_; all these are exposed to sale in great earthen Platters boiled in clean Water; every one takes what he likes best. Those Fruits, with Bread, is his Food; and the Water which remains, serves for Drink. Thus their Meat and Drink stand them in very little; so that I dare say, one _Christian_ spends more Money, on his Belly, in one Day, than a _Turk_ doth in twelve; yea, their most solemn Feasts consist of _Wafers_, _Cakes_, and such-like Junkets, together with several Dishes of _Rice_, with some _Mutton_, and _Pullet_; for _Capons_ are not yet known in _Turkey_; but as for _Pheasants_, _Thrushes_, and Birds called _Figeaters_, they never so much as heard of their Names. But, if _Honey_ and _Sugar_ be mix’d with the Water, the Drink is like _Jove’s Nectar_ to them. One Sort of their Liquors I had almost forgot, ’tis this. They take _Raisins of the Sun_, and bruise, or grind them in a Mill, and then put them into a wooden Vessel, pouring a certain Proportion of hot Water upon them. This Mixture they stir about a little, and then cover the Vessel close, and suffer it to ferment a Day or two; if it works well, then they add Lees of Wine to quicken the Operation. When it first begins to ferment, if you taste it, ’tis over-sweet, and that makes it more unpalatable; but afterwards it acquires something of an Acid Taste, which, mix’d with the Sweet, is very grateful to the Palate for about three or four Days; especially if it be mixed with Snow, of which there is plenty at _Constantinople_ at all times. This Drink they call _Arabsorbet_, i. e. the _Arabian Potion_. It will not keep long, but grows sour in a very little Time. ’Twill fly up in your Head, and make you reel as bad as any Wine, if you drink too much of it; and therefore, the _Turks_, by the rules of their Religion, are forbidden to drink it. For my Part, I liked it very well; yea, that sort of Grapes was very acceptable and refreshing; in many Places they keep them all Summer long. The way of preserving them, they told me, was this: They take large Bunches of Grapes ston’d (as the hot Sun quickly ripens them in those Countries); these they put into a Wooden or Earthen Vessel, in the Bottom whereof, they first lay a Line of groun’d Mustard-Seed; then they spread a Line of Grapes upon it; thus with a Lay of Grapes, and a Lay of grinded Mustard-Seed, they fill it up to the Top; and, when the Vessel is full, then they pour in new _Must_, as much as will fill all the Interstice; then they shut it close, and so let it stand till the hot Time of the next Year, when Men stand most in need of Drink. Then these Vessels are broach’d, and the Grapes, with its Liquor, are set to sale. The _Turks_ like the Liquor as well as the Grapes; but I did not so well like the Taste of the Mustard-Seed, and, therefore, I caused the Grapes to be washed, and then, when I was most thirsty, they gave me great Relief. I hope you will give me leave to commend a Food to you, that did me so much good, seeing the _Egyptians_ esteemed their Herbs and Plants, which were contributory to their Health, as so many _Deities_. But ’tis Time for a Wanderer to return back into the Way.

From the Bank of the River _Halys_, which the _Turks_ call _Aitoczu_, we came to _Gonkurthoy_; from thence to _Choron_, and from thence to _Theke Thioi_, where the _Turks_ have a stately Monastry for their _Priests_ and _Monks_, called _Dervises_. Those _Dervises_ told us a great Story of a certain Man, called _Chederles_, of an huge Stature, and graveness of Mind answerable thereto. They suppose it was the same with our St. _George_, and ascribe the same Exploits to him; as the saving of a Virgin by the Slaughter of a huge and terrible _Dragon_. To which they add many Fables and Imaginations of idle Brains; as that he travelled over several Countries far and near, and at last came to a River, whose Waters made those that drank them immortal; but in what Part of the World this River is, they cannot tell us; they say, moreover, that it lies somewhere in a great Cloud, or Mist of Darkness, and that never a Man saw it since _Chederles_. As for _Chederles_ himself, he was made Immortal, and so was his Horse, by drinking the same Water, who now, both do invisibly travel over the World, delighting in Wars, and appearing therein to the most Valiant, or to those who implore his Aid, of what Religion soever they be: Such ridiculous Fancies do they please themselves with! To which we may add, other Things as absurd as those before-mentioned, That he was one of the Friends and Companions of _Alexander the Great_. For, the Truth is, the _Turks_ keep no just Account either of Times or Ages, but makes a confused Hodge-podge of all History. When they have a Mind to it, they scruple not to say, _That ~Job~ was Master of the Horse to King ~Solomon~, and that ~Alexander the Great~ was General of his Army_; with such-like Stuff.

In that Monastry, or Mosque, there is a Fountain that bubbles forth very clear and limpid Water; it is built about and cover’d with most excellent Marble, and they ridiculously would have People believe, that it had its Original from _Chederles_’s Horses, which he pissed in great Plenty in that Place. They also told us many _Rodomontado_’s concerning the Companions of _Chederles_, concerning his chief Groom, and also concerning his Nephew by his Sister, all which were buried near at hand, and their Sepulchres there to be seen; and when any Suppliants come to pay their Devotions to them, they would have persuaded us, that they receive great Relief thereby; yea, they superstitiously affirm, That the Fragments of the Stones, and the very Earth itself, on which _Chederles_’s Feet stood, when he staid for the Dragon, if drank in any Liquor, are very good against Fevers, the Head-Ach, and the Diseases of the Eyes. All the Country thereabout, is full of Dragons and Vipers, so that, in the hot Season of the Year, they are so thick, basking themselves in the Sun, that the Ways are almost unpassable for Travellers.

I had almost forgot to tell you, that, whereas, the _Greeks_ do usually paint St. _George_ on Horseback in their Temples, with his Squire behind him, holding out to him a Cup of Wine as to his Master, he being (as they believe) their _Chederles_; they laugh heartily at that Spectacle.

At this Place, we were near our Journey’s End, for now we had but one Stage more to _Amasia_; and that was _Baglison_; from thence we reached _Amasia_, _April 7_, and thirty Days after, we left _Constantinople_. As we were coming, some _Turks_ met us, to gratulate our Arrival, and to introduce us with Honour.

_Amasia_ is, in a manner, the chief City of _Cappadocia_, where the _Turkish_ Governor of that Province usually had his Residence, for the Administration of Justice, and where he usually forms his Camp. But that Town, ever since _Bajazet_’s Time, seemed to be very unlucky, and of late, the miserable Case of _Mustapha_ hath confirmed it to be an unfortunate Seat. _Strabo_ writes, that he was born there. It lies on the Side of two opposite Hills, the River _Iris_ dividing the City of the midst, running between them; so that from each Part you may look down upon the River, as from the Seats or Stairs of a Theatre; and one Side of it is conspicuous and open to the view of the other. It is so encompassed with Hills, that there is but one way to it, either for Coach or Waggon.

The same Night we came thither, there happened a great Fire, which the _Janizaries_ quenched, as their manner is, by plucking down the Houses adjoining. Upon occasion of this Accident, give me leave to inform you, that the _Turkish_ Soldiers are well-pleased when a Fire happens; for, whereas they must be employed to quench it, and usually do it by ruining the contiguous Houses, they have thereby an opportunity to rifle and plunder both; so that they themselves do oftentimes privily set Houses on Fire, that so they may filch and steal what they can out of them; as I remember once, when I was at _Constantinople_, there were frequent Conflagrations of Houses. ’Twas plain, they could not happen casually, but must be set on Fire a purpose, and yet the Authors could not be found; but the Fault was commonly cast on some _Persian_ Spies that were in Town: At last, upon a diligent Search, ’twas found that the Soldiers had stirr’d up their Fellows, that were a Ship-board, to do the Feat; that so, during the Fire, they might enrich themselves with the Spoils.

Upon an high Hill, that hangs over and commands _Amasia_, there is a strong Castle, wherein the _Turks_ have a continual Garrison, either to curb the _Asiaticks_, who are not very well pleased with the _Ottoman_ Yoke (as I shall shew anon) or else to bridle the _Persian_, who many times make large Excursions even as far as this Town, though at such a vast distance from them. In this Hill there are some ancient Monuments, which, perhaps, were the Sepulchres of the _Cappadocian_ Kings.

As for the Houses and Streets of _Amasia_, there is little or no Beauty in them. Their Houses are built of Loom, as they are in _Spain_, plain at top without any Roof, and what covering they have is of Loom or Clay too. They have some old piece of a Pillar, Cylinder or Roller, which they turn up and down to stop any Chink or Crevice, made either by Rain or Wind. The Inhabitants, in former Times, lay down to sleep in the open Air. As for Rains, they are not great, nor frequent in those Parts; but if at any time a Shower falls, the Loomy Droppings from the Eaves, do wofully dirty the Cloths of those that pass under them. I saw there a certain young noble Person, living not far from me, at his Supper, after the old _Roman_ fashion, lying on a Bed. As soon as I came to _Amasia_, we were introduced to compliment the supreme Vizier _Achmet_, and the rest of the _Bashaw_’s, for their Emperor was then gone abroad; we treated with them a while concerning the Contents of our Embassy; and because they would not seem to prejudice us, they lent us a favourable Ear; referring all, however, to the Will and Pleasure of their Emperor. When he came home, we were led into his Presence, for Audience; but he entertain’d us (and the Reasons we alledg’d in the Speech we made him, according to the Command of my Master) with a sour and frowning Look. He sate upon a low Throne, not above a Foot from the Ground, but it was all covered over with rich Tapestry, and with Cushions exquisitely wrought. His Bow and Arrows lay by his side, he himself (as I said) looked sternly upon us; and yet there was a certain Majesty, mix’d with Severity, in his Countenance. Each of us, as we entred the Room, was led up towards him by some of his Bed-chamber Officers, who held us by the Arm, (for so they use to introduce Ambassadors, ever since a certain _Croatian_, desiring to speak with _Amurath_, and drawing near to him so to do, slew him in revenge of the death of his Master, _Mark_ the _Despot_ of _Servia_, who was killed by the said _Amurath_): and afterwards, as if we had kiss’d his Hand, we were led backward to the opposite part of the Room; for the _Turks_ count it an unmannerly thing to turn any of their Back-parts to their Prince. From thence I had liberty to declare our Master’s Commands; but they suited not with his lofty, imperious Spirit, who thought that nothing ought to be denied him, for they were daring and high; so that he, as disdaining them, said nothing but _Giusel, Giusel!_ (i. e.) _Well, Well!_ And so we were dismissed to our Lodgings.

At our Audience there was a very full Court, for a great many Governors of Provinces were there with their Presents; and, besides the Imperial Horse, _Spahi’s_, _Janipagits_ and _Ululags_, there were also a great number of _Janizaries_. But, among this vast number of Courtiers, there was not so much as one more eminent for Birth and Parentage; each one, by his Valour and adventurous Atchievements, was the Carver out of his own Fortune. Their Honour ariseth from their Preferments; so that there is no dispute about Precedency, but every Man’s Pre-eminces is according to the Office which he bears. And those Offices are distributed at the meer Will and Pleasure of the Prince, who does not regard the empty Name of Nobility, nor value a Rush the Favour of the Multitude, or of any other particular Man; but, considering only the Merits and Disposition of the Man, he rewards him accordingly. And, by that means, Employments are bestowed upon such Persons as are best able to manage them; and every Man hath an opportunity to be the Hammerer out of his own Honour and Preferment. Those which at present are the greatest Officers under their Emperor, were mostly the Sons of Shepherds or Neatherds; and they are so far from being ashamed of the Meanness of their Original, that they glory therein among one another; and account it more Praise-worthy to be the Advancers of themselves, than if they had Honour transmitted down to them from their Ancestors.

For thus they argue, Virtue is not propagated from our Parents, but is partly the Gift of God, and partly acquired by good Discipline, and by our own Labour and Industry; so that, as no Son hath his Father’s Skill in Music, Arithmetic or Geometry, derived to him from his Birth, so neither can Fathers bequeath Virtue as an Inheritance to their Children; for the Soul, say they, is not communicated with the Father’s Seed (so that a Son must necessarily be born alike qualified as his Father was) but it is infus’d into his Body from the God of Heaven. Thus in that Nation, Dignities, Honours, Offices, _&c._ are the Rewards of Virtue and Merit; as on the other side, Dishonesty, Sloth, and Idleness, are among them the most despicable things in the whole World. And by this means they flourish, bear sway, and enlarge the Bounds of their Empire every day more and more. But we, _Christians_, to our shame be it spoken, live at another manner of rate; Virtue is little esteemed among us, but Nobleness of Birth (forsooth) carries away all the Honour and Preferment. But enough of this at present: More may be spoken on this Argument hereafter; and what I have now said about it, pray keep it to your self, for other Men may not be able to bear my Freedom herein.

To return, then, to my Subject; I shall now present you with a surprizing Spectacle, even a multitude of Persons with picket Turbants on their Heads, made of pure white Linnen folded together in Plates; their other Apparel was very costly, of several Sorts and Colours, all most radiantly shining with Gold, Silver, Purple, Silk, Velvet, _&c._ I am not able to describe the Gaudiness of the _Show_; in one Word, ’twas the most glorious one I ever saw in all my Life. And yet, in all this Splendor, there was a great deal of Simplicity and Parsimony too. Those who were of one Order had Cloathing all of one sort; there were no foolish Hems, Lacings, Fringes or Borders, as among us, which cost a great deal of Money, and yet wear out in a day or two. The Silk and Velvet Suits, which many of them wore, though mightily embroidered, yet cost not above a Ducat the making and embroidering. They did as much admire to see the Fashion of our Cloaths, as we did that of theirs. Their Vests are very long, almost down to their Heels, which is more graceful, and makes them seem taller than they are; but our Apparel (forsooth) is so curtail’d and short, that it hardly covers the Parts which Nature would have to be concealed; on which Account it is less decent. Besides, it seems to take away some Inches from the Tallness of our Stature, and look more _Dwarf-like_. And yet, among so great a Multitude, I took notice of this most laudable Circumstance; ’twas all _hush_; not so much as a word spoken among them all, nor no humming Noise, as among a tumultuous Multitude; no justling one of another, but every particular Man quietly kept his own Station. The Heads of them, which they call _Aga’s_, had Seats to sit upon, such as their _Serasquiers_, or _Generals_, their _Brigadiers_, _Colonels_ and _Captains_; but the Commonalty stood on their Feet. Among the rest, I most admir’d the _Janizaries_; though there were some Thousands of them, yet they stood at a distance one from another; Stock-still, (as we say) as if they had been Statues: So that I, who was at some distance from them, thought verily they had been so, till being advised to salute them, as the manner is, I saw them all bow their Heads, by way of Resalutation, unto me. When we passed from this Shew, behold there was another pleasurable one, which entertain’d us; and that was their Horse-Guards, in their March to their Quarters. They rode upon gallant stately Prancers, excellently well trapped, equipped, and Shod. Thus we were dismissed, but with little hopes of obtaining what we came for.

On the 10th of _May_, the _Persian_ Ambassador came to _Amasia_, and brought with him rich and gallant Presents, as many choice sorts of Hangings, _Babylonian_ Tents, curiously wrought within with many sorts of Needle-work, gallant Horse-Trappings, and Saddles, Scymiters made at _Damascus_, whose Handles were studded with Jewels, and Shields of curious Workmanship; but that which exceeded them all, was the _Alcoran_, so they call the Book containing the Rites and Ceremonies of their Religion, which they fancy _Mahomet_ compos’d by Divine Inspiration, and which is accounted the most noble Present of all. They quickly accorded with him on Terms of Peace, so that it concern’d us to be cautious, who were to find greater obstruction in our Negotiations with them. And, to assure us that the Peace was confirm’d betwixt them, they omitted no manner of extraordinary Respect to their Ambassador. For the manner of the _Turks_ is, (as I told you before,) to be excessive on both Sides, either in bestowing Honour on their Friends, or in heaping Reproaches on their Enemies. _Haly Basha_, Deputy to the _Grand Vizier_, treated the _Persian_ with a sumptuous Dinner, which he made in his Garden, a Place far distant from us, and separated also by the interposal of the River, yet we could see the Manner of it well enough; for, I told you, the Place was seated so high on both sides of the Hill, that the Eye might easily discover what was done on each side. This _Haly_ is a _Dalmatian_ by Birth, a Man of much Wit, and, which is strange in _Turkey_, very courteous to Strangers. The Table, at which the _Bashaw_ and the _Persian_ Embassador sate, was covered over with a Canopy, and the Dishes were served up after this manner. There were one hundred Youths, which attended, like Waiters, all of them alike habited. First of all, they entered one by one, at a small distance from each other, till the Train of them reached up to the Table where the Guests were sitting. They had nothing at all in their Hands, that so they might not be hindered in saluting the Guests, which was done in this manner; they laid their Hands on their Thighs, and bowed their Heads downwards to the Ground; when this Ceremony was perform’d, then he that stood next the Kitchen, took a Dish and gave it to the next Page immediately before him; he handed it to a Third, and he to a Fourth, and so from one to another till it came to him who stood next the Table, and he delivered it to the Hands of the Gentleman-Sewer, who plac’d it on the Table. And thus one hundred Dishes, or more, were serv’d up to the Table in excellent Order, without any Noise at all; and, when that was done, those Waiters, or Pages, saluted the Guests a second time, and so returned in the same Order they came in; only, of course, those that were last before went out first, and those which were nearest the Table brought up the Rear. Thus the second Course was also serv’d up; so that the _Turks_ are great Admirers of Orders, even in the smallest matters, which we _Christians_ are apt to neglect, even in things of greatest Moment. At some distant from the Ambassador sate his Attendants with some _Turks_ of Quality with them.

Peace being thus made with the _Persians_, as I told you before, yet we could get no good Terms of them at all, only we obtain’d an half year’s Truce, till I could send to my Master, and know his Answer. I was sent to be _Leiger_ Ambassador there; but, in regard there was no Peace settl’d betwixt both Empires, the _Bashaws_ thought it adviseable for me to return to my Master with Letters from _Solyman_ their Emperor; and I was to return with an Answer from his Imperial Majesty, if he thought fit. Hereupon I was again introduced into _Solyman_’s Presence, and had two large embroider’d Veils, reaching down to my Ancles, clap’d upon me; they were so heavy, that I could hardly stand under them. My Family also, that attended me, were all clad with silk Garments of divers Colours; in this Posture I stalked along, like _Agamemnon_, or some such piece of Gravity, in a _Tragedy_; and so I took my leave of their Emperor, having first receiv’d Letters from him to my Master, seal’d and wrap’d up in Cloth of Gold, and the chief of my Attendants were also admitted to take their Leaves; and thus, after we had taken our leaves of the _Bashaws_, I and my Collegues departed from _Amasia_, _June_ the 2d. The Custom is, that Ambassadors at their Departure, have a Dinner provided for them in the _Divan_, (so they call the place where the _Bashaws_ sit to administer Justice,) but this is done only to their Friends; that Compliment was omitted to me, because Affairs were not yet in an amicable Posture between them and us.

If you ask me, what manner of Man _Solyman_ was, I’ll tell you. He was an ancient Man, his Countenance, and the Mien of his Body, were very majestick, well becoming the Dignity which he bore; he was frugal and temperate, even from his Youth, though he might have taken a greater Liberty to himself by the Rules of their own Religion. In his younger Days he was not given to Wine, nor to masculine Venery, which the _Turks_ much delight in; to that his very Enemies could object nothing against him on those Accounts, but that he was too uxurious, and his over-indulgence to his Wife made him give way to the Death of his Son _Mustapha_: Yet that Crime was vulgarly imputed to an Ascendent she had over him, by reason of her Inchantments and Love-Portions. This is certain, that, after he once took her for his lawful Wife, he never had carnal Knowledge of any other Woman, though their Laws did not forbid him. He is a very strict Observer of the _Mahumetan_ Religion, and is as desirous to propagate that, as to enlarge the Bounds of his Empire.

He is now sixty years of Age; and, for a Man of his Years, he enjoys a moderate proportion of Health, and yet his Countenance doth discover, that he carries about him some hidden Disease, ’tis thought a Gangrene, or Ulcer, in the Thigh; yet at solemn Audiences of Ambassadors, he hath a _Fucus_ to paint his Cheeks with, that he may appear sound and healthy to them, and thereupon be more dreaded by foreign Princes, their Masters. Methought, I discovered some such thing at my Dismission; for his Countenance was as sour when I left him, as it was at my first Audience.

Having thus taken my leave, I began my Journey in the Month of _June_, and the Heat thereof was so excessive, that it cast me into a Fever. ’Tis true, it was a remiss and gentle one, yet it came every Day; to which was added an Hoarseness, and Defluction of Rheum from the Head, and it held me till I came to _Constantinople_.

The _Persian_ Embassador left _Amasia_ the self-same Day that I did, and we went both out of the City the same way; for, (as I told you before) there is but one Passage into, or out of, that Town, it is so shut in by the circumjacent and unpassable Hills: But the Way quickly doth divide into two, one to the _East_, which the _Persians_ took; and another to the _West_. which was our Road. In the open Fields about the Town, we saw the _Turkish_ Camp pitch’d, with abundance of Tents. I shall not entertain you with the Stages of my Return, they being the same with those of my Journey thither, only we made a little more Speed, and sometimes rode two Day’s Journey in one. In fine, we came to _Constantinople_, _June_ the 2d. You must needs think I had a troublesome Journey of it, having such a Companion with me, as a _Quotidian Ague_, all the way; so that, when I came thither, I was almost nothing but Skin and Bone: Yet, lean as I was, when I came to rest, and by the advice of _Quaquelben_, my Physician, used warm Baths, I quickly recovered. One thing I observed in the method of my Cure, that, when I came out of the warm Bath, he would sprinkle me over with cold Water, which, though it were troublesome to me at the present, yet I found that it did me much good.

Whilst I staid at _Constantinople_, there was a certain Person, that came from the _Turkish_ Camp in _Asia_, who told me a Story, which I shall acquaint you with, because it shows that the _Asiaticks_ are not very well pleased, either with the Religion, or the Government of the _Turks_. ’Twas this: _Solyman_, says he, as he was returning home, was forc’d to lodge one Night in the House of a certain _Asiatick_, and when he went away in the Morning, his Host brought a great deal of Perfume, and us’d a great many Ceremonies, to cleanse and purge his House, as if it had been polluted by such a Guest as _Solyman_; when _Solyman_ heard of it, he caused the Man to be slain, and his House to be levelled with the Ground. This Punishment the poor Man underwent for his Aversion to the _Turks_, and his Propensity to favour the _Persians_.

I staid about fourteen Days at _Constantinople_ to refresh my self, and then I entred on my Journey back again to _Vienna_: But I was entertain’d with an inauspicious Omen, even a very sad Spectacle; just as I was gone out of the Gates of _Constantinople_, I met whole Waggon-Loads of Boys and Girls, which were brought out of _Hungary_ to _Constantinople_ to be sold; no Merchandize is more frequent amongst them than that. For, as when we leave _Antwerp_, we meet with all sorts of merchantable Commodities importing into the Town, so here, ever now and then, there passed by us abundance of poor miserable _Christian_ Slaves, which were going to be sold in the Markets to a perpetual Bondage. There was no distinction of Age; Old and Young were driven in Herds, or Companies, or else were tied in a long Chain, as we use to tail Horses when we carry them to Fairs. When I beheld this woful sight, I could not forbear weeping and bemoaning the unhappy State of poor _Christendom_. And if that miserable Spectacle were not afflicting enough to a new Traveller, take another bad and mortifying Occurrence: My Collegues had recommended some of their Retinue to me, which were weary of living in _Turkey_, that they might be of my Train, in returning to their own Country. I granted their Request, and having travelled two Day’s Journey, I perceiv’d one that was Chief among them, (called a _Vaivode_, from his Office,) was carried sick in a Coach; one of his Feet being bare, without any Stockings, he would not suffer it to be covered, for he had in it a Plague-sore, which he found more easy to keep open. We were much troubled at this sight, as fearing that infectious Disease would spread farther; but the poor Man liv’d till we came to _Adrianople_, and there departed this Life. Upon his Death another Mischief did succeed; as soon as the Breath was out of his Body, the rest of the _Hungarians_ ran in greedily to the Prey, one caught up his Stockings, another his Doublet, a third his Shirt, a fourth his other Linnen; thus casting themselves, and us too, into a great deal of Danger. Nor was there any way in the World to hinder them.

’Tis true, my Physician, like an honest Man, ran in amongst them, and intreated them, for God’s sake, to throw the Things away, because they would infect us all; but they were deaf to his Advice. The Day after we left _Adrianople_, those very Persons came to him, and complain’d of a Pain in their Heads, with a dejection of their Spirits, and a Listlessness both of Body and Mind, and desired his Advice; he, suspecting the Symptoms of the Plague in the case, told them, they were well enough serv’d, for not harkening to his Counsel; yet he would do them what good he could, only, being on his Journey, he was unprovided of proper Medicines. The same Day I walked abroad into the Field, as I us’d to do, as soon as ever I came to my Inn, to see if I could find any thing worthy of my Notice in those Countries, where I met with an unknown Herb in the Meadow, which smelt like _Garlick_. After I had pluck’d some Leaves of it, I gave them to my Physician to know his Judgment; he looked wistly upon it, and told me, ’twas _Scordium_, and lifting up his Hands to Heaven, he gave God thanks for sending us so opportune a Remedy against the Plague; hereupon he gathers a great quantity of it, and putting it into a large Pot, boiled it over the Fire. Then he bid the _Hungarians_ take heart, and parted the Decoction amongst them, prescribing the taking of it very hot, as they were going to Bed, mix’d with some _Lemnian_ Earth, and _Diascordium_, and that they should not sleep till they had fallen into a great Sweat. Observing his Directions, the next Day after they were much better, and desired the same Portion again, and when they had drunk it, they grew perfectly well. And thus, by God’s Blessing, we avoided that Infection.

And yet, the residue of our Journey was not without Peril. After we had passed the Country of the _Thracians_ and _Bulgarians_, which reaches as far as _Nissa_, and came into the _Servians_ Country, reaching from _Nissa_ to _Simandria_, where the _Rascians_ Country begins; we came at last to _Belgrade_, the Weather being excessively hot and parching, for ’twas the hottest time of the _Dog-days_.

At _Belgrade_, upon one of our Fish-days, we were presented with abundance of choice Fish, and amongst the rest, with large full-bodied _Carps_, taken in the _Danube_, whose _Carps_ are very much commended: My People did eat very greedily of them, and that was either the cause, or the occasion, which cast many of them into a Fever; yet all that quantity of Fish, which was enough to satisfy forty Men, cost but half a Dollar; and the Truth is, other Things are as cheap. As for Hay, ’tis little or nothing worth; the Meadows are so laden with it, that every Man may take what he will, provided he pay for the Mowing and Carriage; which made us admire the Wisdom of the old _Hungarians_, after they had passed the _Save_, who chose so fertile a Country, as _Hungary_, to dwell in; where there were all manner of Conveniences for Human Life. We passed over a great Tract of Land, both beyond and on this side the _Save_, and we found the Grass, Barley, Oats and Wheat, almost parch’d and withered with Drought; but as soon as we entred _Hungary_, the Grass was so tall, that a Coach, that went before, could hardly be seen by another that came after; which is a great Argument of the goodness of the Soil.

The _Rascians_, as I told you before, begin at _Simandria_, and reach as far as the River _Drave_; they are reputed to be a fudling sort of People, and not very faithful to Strangers. Whence they had their Name and Original, I do not certainly know; but truly they were kind enough to us; we passed through some Villages of theirs of less Note, and at last arrived at _Esseck_, which is almost inclosed with muddy Marshes, and is famous for the slaughter of _Catzianerus_, and the overthrow of the _Christians_. Here I was taken with a _Tertian Ague_, I was so parch’d with Heat, in travelling the open Fields of _Hungary_; and at _Esseck_ we passed the _Drave_, and came to _Lasque_, where being weary with the Heat of my Journey, and my Ague, I laid me down to Rest. There the chiefest of the Place came to me to bid me welcome; and presented me with large Melons, Pears, and Plumbs of several Sorts, besides Wine, and other Provisions, all of them very good; the noted Country of _Campania_ in _Italy_ hardly bears better. In the Room where I lodged, there was a long Table all furnished with these Viands: My Servants desired the _Hungarians_ to stay to Supper, excusing my Absence, because of my Sickness. As soon as I awoke, and saw such a full-spread Table before my Eyes, I thought verily I had been in a Dream, and ask’d my Physician, how that came about? He told me plainly, that he himself had caused the Table to be furnished, that so the very Sight of it might refresh me. But must I not taste of it, said I? Yes, said he, but you must only taste; and so I eat a little of it, and seem’d to be much the better for it. The Day after the _Hungarians_ came to me again to present their Service, desiring me to represent their Condition to the Emperor, in regard of the Wrongs they received from some of their Neighbours. From thence we came to _Mohatz_, noted for the Overthrow and Death of _Lewis_ King of _Hungary_; not far from that Town, I saw a River whose Water was deep, and its Banks very steep; here that unhappy Prince leapt in with his Horse, and was drown’d, being for his Fall as much to be lamented, as for his Imprudence, in venturing with a small and newly rais’d Army of his Country-Men, to cope with the more numerous, veteran, and well-disciplin’d Forces of _Solyman_.