Chapter V: Documents and Miscellaneous Papers (2)

He accordingly left Timbuctoo, on the 22nd September, with a small caravan, having only one Arab servant; on the third evening he was joined by several Arabs belonging to the caravan, and afterwards basely massacred. It happened that the above-mentioned letter, written from Timbuctoo, was in the possession of his servant. His baggage was entirely pillaged, and his journal and numerous papers carried off; but we have still hopes that they will be recovered. The servant has undergone the most rigorous examination; he is firm and consistent in all his answers; and I regret to say that there is great reason to suppose that this enterprising traveller fell a victim to the traitorous and barbarous Bello, who behaved so scandalously to Captain Clapperton.

I therefore hope from your justice, as a man devoted to the sciences, and particularly to geography, and as President of the Central Committee, that you will give the same publicity to this communication as has been given to the fortunate result of the meritorious enterprise of M. Caillié.

I have the honour to be,

Sir,

Your very obedient servant,

JOHN BARROW.

* * * * *

_Extract from the Answer of_ M. JOMARD _to_ MR. BARROW.

Paris, 31 October, 1828.

SIR,

Although a stranger to the letter which forms the subject of your appeal, I should never consent to participate, even indirectly, in an assertion contrary to truth, or to the reputation of the courageous traveller, whose interests you justly defend. No one is less accessible than myself to impressions exclusively national, and it is on behalf of humanity in general that I am devoted to the cause of science and its indefinite progress. I should, therefore, have sincerely rejoiced in being the first to make known in France the return and success of Major Laing, as I was fortunate enough to do in regard to Captain Clapperton and Major Denham on their arrival. You must be aware, Sir, that it was I who announced to the French public the labours of these intrepid adventurers, who first published their valuable Discoveries in Central Africa, and paid legitimate homage to the memory of Dr. Oudney. With respect to Major Laing, I long questioned and withstood the premature rumours of his death, and exerted myself to point out the contradictions that pervaded the accounts circulated both in Africa and Europe; nothing, indeed, had yet persuaded me of the reality of this catastrophe, and your letter alone, Sir, could oblige me to give entire credit to this distressing intelligence, so ardently did I desire to be informed of Major Laing’s success, and to have the pleasure of proclaiming it, and of contributing, however feebly, to his renown. Major Denham may have acquainted you with the reception which he experienced from me at Paris; and told you how happy I esteemed myself in embracing this brave officer, and in conversing with a man who had ten times courageously hazarded his life, in order to penetrate as far as possible in an unknown continent.

Now, Sir, these are the very expressions which form the subject of your appeal: “He (M. A. Caillié) is the only European who has hitherto succeeded in happily accomplishing an enterprize in which so many brave travellers have fallen.”

You see, Sir, that the matter in question is the fortunate return of the traveller to his country, and not the discovery of Timbuctoo. The merit of having first visited that city is not ascribed to him. Thus, after the death of Dr. Oudney, his more fortunate companions, Clapperton and Denham, again reached their native land: it might then be said, on their return to England, that they were the first Europeans who had come back from Bornou, and brought this enterprise to a successful termination, and that without detracting in the least from the Doctor’s wreath of glory. You will then do justice, Sir, I make no doubt, not only to me, but to M. Delaporte, Vice-Consul of France; and you will have no difficulty in acknowledging, that no one has had any intention of depriving your countrymen of the honour due to them. I take credit to myself for having contributed to establish it as a principle in the Geographical Society, that travellers of all nations are equally entitled to its attention, that its rewards belong to all, whatever may be their nation; in short, that there is no distinction in the feelings of this Society towards foreigners and denizens.

Permit me, Sir, to deplore with yourself the sad event related in your letter; however, several circumstances appear still to leave some small room for doubt; I hope my incredulity may be justified by the event. But, if the catastrophe is certain, it is yet devoutly to be wished that the journal of his travels may be recovered, or that his servant may be able to furnish some information that can be depended upon; also, that the curious documents, which you mention as being in your possession, may be published as soon as possible. We shall soon, I hope, be favoured with the documents brought home by Clapperton’s servant, Lander, and I shall not then be behind-hand in appreciating the merit of this new victim to the cause of science. Allow me here, Sir, to add one remark: had it devolved upon me to make a catalogue of the Europeans who have reached the city of Timbuctoo, I should not have overlooked several individuals who appear to have visited it; I should even probably have mentioned Robert Adams, though his travels have been called in question, and opinions, as you know, are still divided upon them. Neither would M. Delaporte have failed to cite them, had this been his object: but his intention was simply to announce the fortunate return of the traveller, after having crossed the Great Desert; a happiness neither reserved for Hornemann, Park, Oudney, the unfortunate Laing, nor for so many other lamented victims.

It only remains for me, Sir, to congratulate myself on the opportunity you have afforded me for expressing my real sentiments as to what should constitute the object of all geographical discoveries, that is to say, usefulness and the increase of human happiness. I am equally gratified in the opportunity of expressing to you, individually, the high esteem which I profess for scientific men and travellers of your nation. With these sentiments I beg you to believe me, &c.

_Signed_ JOMARD.

* * * * *

_Letter from His Excellency the Minister of the Interior to the Presidents and Secretary of the Geographical Society._

Paris, 28th October, 1828.

SIR,

I have received the letter you did me the honour of writing to me, and in which, in answer to that which I had addressed to you on the second of April last, you communicate to me the most recent intelligence that has reached you from the interior of Africa. I have read with real interest the details relative to the travels of the Sieur Caillié, the first French traveller, you observe, who has returned without danger and even with success, from such an enterprise. I see with pleasure that the Geographical Society has conferred on him marks of satisfaction; for my part, Gentlemen, in compliance, with the wishes you conveyed to me, I have written in his favour to His Exc. the Minister of the Marine. I have requested that minister will have the goodness to provide the Sieur Caillié, with the means of repairing to Paris; and the better to ensure his attention, I transmitted to him a copy of the succinct narrative with which you favoured me, and for which I thank you.

Please to accept, &c.

_Signed_ MARTIGNAC.

* * * * *

_Letter from the Presidents and Secretary of the Society to M. Delaporte._

Paris, 3rd October 1828.

M. VICE CONSUL,

In a letter from Toulon, dated 10th October, M. Auguste Caillié informs us of a journey he had just accomplished in the interior of Africa, and pays you a just tribute of gratitude for the generous manner in which you received him. In answer to your letter of the 3d instant, confirming the circumstances of this journey, we hasten to address to you the thanks of the Geographical Society for the additional particulars it contains, and especially for the attention which you paid to our countryman. In thus fulfilling the duties of humanity, you have saved the life of an estimable and courageous traveller, the first amongst Europeans who has returned from Central Africa by way of Morocco.

The Society has already strongly recommended M. Caillié to the Ministers of the Marine and the Interior, and immediately forwarded to him at Toulon a first indemnity, to supply his urgent necessities.

We have the honour to be, &c.

_Signed_ Baron CUVIER, JOMARD, DE LARENAUDIÈRE.

* * * * *

_Letter of His Exc. the Minister of the Marine._

Paris, 11th November 1828.

GENTLEMEN,

You have done me the honour of recommending to me the Sieur Caillié who has just accomplished a journey to Timbuctoo and several other parts of Central Africa, and is recently arrived at Toulon.

The Minister of the Interior has also written to me in favour of M. Caillié. My answer to His Exc. is that it belongs to his office to provide this traveller with the assistance which seems to be most necessary to him, and that I shall with pleasure concur in any ulterior measures that may be adopted by the department of the interior, to make a suitable compensation for the labours and zeal of M. Caillié, whose claims upon the favour of government I fully appreciate.

Permit me, &c.

_Signed_ Baron HYDE DE NEUVILLE.

_Extracts from the Minutes of the Meeting of the 21st November 1828._

M. Jomard gave notice that M. Auguste Caillié, present at the meeting, wished to offer his thanks to the Society; he then gave some account of the information derived from the travels, and announced that he had been able from the journal to draw a complete itinerary from Rio-Nuñez to Tangier, by Timé, Jenné, Timbuctoo, Tafilet, and Fez. He proposed that a committee of five members should be appointed to take the papers into consideration and make their report before the general meeting, in order that the public may be speedily enabled to appreciate the labours and observations of this interesting traveller. The proposition was unanimously adopted, and a special commission composed of Messrs. Eyriès, Amédée Jaubert, Larenaudière, baron Roger, Cadet de Metz, and Jomard, appointed to report to the meeting upon the travels and papers of M. Caillié. The central commission will hold an extraordinary meeting to receive this report.

_Letter from the President and Secretary of the Society, to their Excellencies the Ministers of the Marine, of the Interior, and of Foreign Affairs._

Paris, 28th November, 1828.

MONSEIGNEUR,

The Geographical Society, after having attentively investigated the efforts and observations of M. A. Caillié in the interior of Africa, has aknowledged him deserving of the reward promised _to the first traveller who should reach the city of Timbuctoo, setting out from Senegambia_, and has decided that the annexed report should be communicated to Your Excellency. We hasten, Monseigneur, to address to you a copy[174] in behalf of M. Caillié, and we deem it superfluous to recommend him again to your favour. Perhaps Your Excellency may think it advisable to lay before His Majesty a statement of his services.

We are, &c.

_Signed Baron_ CUVIER, _President; Viscount_ SIMEON, _Vice
president;_ GIRARD, _President of the Central Committee;_ JOMARD,
_Vice-President;_ DE LARENAUDIÈRE, _General Secretary_.

_Letter from_ MR. JOHN BARROW _to_ M. JOMARD.

London, 1st December, 1828.

SIR,

I have received your obliging letter of the first of November and that of the 20th, to which you have had the goodness to add printed copies of our correspondence on the subject of the two African travellers therein mentioned. I beg you to accept my very hearty thanks. The explanation you have kindly given in your first letter is perfectly satisfactory, and of a nature to convince me that I was under a mistake, and that I had confounded M. Caillié’s happy return with the successful accomplishment of his enterprise. I have long delayed thanking you, that I might be enabled at the same time to send you a copy of the map, &c.

_Signed_ JOHN BARROW.

* * * * *

_Letter of His Excellency the Minister of the Marine to_ M. JOMARD.

Paris, 2nd December, 1828.

While the definitive recompense which M. Caillié may be entitled to expect, on account of the courageous enterprise which he has recently accomplished, remains in suspense, I have proposed to the King to grant to this traveller a provisional indemnity of three thousand francs, payable from the funds of the Senegal. His Majesty has been graciously pleased, by a decision of the 30th of November, to accede to my proposition. I have thought that it would be agreeable to you to be informed of this act of royal beneficence, which I congratulate myself as having been the instrument of obtaining.

Receive, &c.

_Signed_ Baron HYDE DE NEUVILLE.

* * * * *

_Letter of His Excellency the Minister of the Marine to_ M. JOMARD.

Paris, 10th December, 1828.

I hasten to announce to you that upon my proposition, the King has deigned, by an ordinance of this day, to create M. Caillié a Knight of the Legion of Honour: I request you will have the goodness to announce it to him. I shall be happy to see him to-morrow, Thursday the 11th of December, between the hours of eleven and one, to communicate this intelligence to him personally.

Be pleased to accept, &c.,

_Signed_ BARON HYDE DE NEUVILLE.

_Letter of His Excellency the Minister of the Marine, to Baron_ CUVIER, _President of the Geographical Society_.

Paris, 11th December, 1828.

You have transmitted to me, in the name of the Geographical Society, a copy of the report of the special commission charged to draw up for the society an account of the travels of M. A. Caillié to Timbuctoo and in the interior of Africa. I have the honour to thank you for the communication of this interesting report.

I have learned with pleasure that the Society has judged M. Caillié deserving of the recompense proposed to the traveller who, setting out from Senegambia, should penetrate to Timbuctoo.

Considerably as my department has already contributed to the formation of the fund appropriated to this object, I have proposed to the King to grant to M. Caillié, from the colonial funds, a special indemnity of three thousand francs, the allowance of which I have directly announced to M. Caillié.

A favour of still higher value has since been decreed to this traveller; by an ordinance of the 10th of December, issued upon my report, the King has named him a Knight of the royal order of the Legion of Honour.

I congratulate myself in having to acquaint the Geographical Society with these acts of royal beneficence, which I have joyfully seized the opportunity of recommending in recompense for M. Caillié’s devotedness.

Be pleased to accept, &c.

_Signed_ Baron HYDE DE NEUVILLE.

* * * * *

_Extract from the Minutes of the General Meeting of the 5th of December, 1828._

M. Jomard, the organ of the Committee charged to draw up an account of the results of M. Caillié’s travels, read the report, which was listened to with the most lively and intense attention. After having successively explained all the reasons upon which the conviction of the Committee was founded, and especially the agreement which subsists between the accounts of this traveller and those published by such of his predecessors as are the most accurate and most deserving of credit; after having announced that M. Caillié’s journal contains an itinerary continued without interruption from Rio-Nuñez to Tangier; the reporter delivered a sketch of the results of the Travels sufficient to excite, but not to satisfy the curiosity of the audience. He enumerated the principal places which our countryman visited during a journey of seventeen months, and of about three thousand miles. We shall only cite his embarkation at Jenné on the Dhioliba (vulgarly called the Niger), his navigation from thence to Timbuctoo, during an entire month in the season of shallow water; his residence in this town, and his subsequent journey across the great desert, during two months and a half, to the kingdom of Morocco and to Tangier. There M. Delaporte, Consul of France and a member of the Geographical Society, received our countryman, lavished upon him all the attentions which his ill-health and exhaustion demanded, after his escape from the dangers of the climate and the perils of so long and arduous a journey.

The report was warmly applauded; and, in conformity to the conclusions of the Committee, M. Caillié was introduced, and received from the hands of the President the recompense offered to his generous self-devotion, that is to say, the produce of a subscription opened by the Society in behalf of the person who should first succeed in penetrating to Timbuctoo by the way of Senegambia, and in furnishing a description of that town.

* * * * *

_Letter from His Excellency the Minister of the Interior._

Paris, 5th December, 1828.

GENTLEMEN,

I have received the letter which you did me the honour to write on the 29th of November last, and with it a copy of the report made to the Society upon the travels of M. A. Caillié in the interior of Africa.

I shall examine with interest what it may be in my power to do towards fulfilling the wishes you express in favour of a traveller, who has executed an enterprise of the great importance of which, in its relation to science, and our intercourse with countries, hitherto, and even still, so imperfectly known, I fully appreciate, as the Minister of the Marine has done.

Be pleased to accept, &c.

_Signed_ MARTIGNAC.

* * * * *

_Death of Major_ LAING.—_Literal translation of a Letter written at St. Louis by a Moor of Timbuctoo, and addressed to M._ JOMARD _by M. Prosper_ GERARDIN.

St. Louis, 1828.

Know that Chems, chief of the tribe of Darmancours, has told me that he has received a letter from Saleh, son of our Iman and of our Cheyhkh (at Tischit), relating to the christian who went to Gadamès. From this town he went towards Touat, then he proceded towards the tribe of the Cheykh Moctar (chief of the Kountas, to the east of the kingdom of the Dowiches). In consideration of a thousand drachms of gold, the people of this tribe accompanied him to Timbuctoo, where they arrived after a journey which continued seven days; afterwards they left him. This white man remained some days at Timbuctoo; then he quitted it. He was met by the Moors who are called Berabiches. These killed him, stole his money, and left behind the books which he possessed.

Saleh says that, if the christians wish for these books, they have only to send some one to him, and that he will restore them.

The Berabiches are the Moors who inhabit the environs of Timbuctoo and Arawane.

The King of Timbuctoo is named الخاش (el-Khâch).

* * * * *

_Narrative of a Moor from Timbuctoo (communicated by the Baron_ ROGER.

St. Louis, September, 1828.

On my way hither from my own country, I passed through Timbuctoo, when I learnt that a white man, who had resided there some days, had been murdered on his way to Ségo; and the circumstances of that unfortunate event, as related to me, in that town, are as follows:

This European, who came from Tripoli, and expressed a desire to proceed to the Senegambia, travelled with a Jew of Barbary, who acted as interpreter; he was attended by four black servants, and possessed nine camels laden with provisions and merchandise. He had arrived within a few days’ journey of Timbuctoo with his caravan, when he was joined by another, composed of Moors of Tuat or _Tuaris_. They first demanded presents of him, and then invited him to barter. The Englishman (who is supposed to be Major Laing) consented, and trafficked with this tribe: but, during the night, they burst into his tent and attacked him. The white man and his servants defended themselves bravely: though wounded in the arm, the traveller succeeded in escaping on one of his camels: he was rejoined soon after by one of the blacks, who brought back two others; they fortunately reached Timbuctoo and took refuge there. But the Tuaris pursued them, and required of the King to surrender to them the white man who had killed several of their companions. The unfortunate man was obliged to flee from his persecutors: in vain he took a contrary course to deceive his pursuers and escape to Ségo; he was overtaken by the villains and put to death.

I could have easily obtained from the Tuaris the books which belonged to this European; but I durst not, lest I should be suspected of having been concerned in his murder.

THE END.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 1: These planks are sawed; of this, at least, I think I am certain. The natives are indebted to the Moors for the knowledge of the saw. Wood is so scarce in this country that it is necessary to make a tree produce as many planks as possible.]

[Footnote 2: An abbreviation of Moubark.]

[Footnote 3: This custom also prevails on the Senegal.]

[Footnote 4: The word _Nile_ is generic, as are also the terms _Bahr’Bâ_, _Kouara_, and many similar names.]

[Footnote 5: Like the shields of the ancient Egyptians.]

[Footnote 6: When I wrote in the desert, I sat down and placed on my knees some leaves of the Koran, which I was supposed to be copying and studying. See plate 3.]

[Footnote 7: Of about two feet.]

[Footnote 8: See plates 4 and 5.]

[Footnote 9: See plate 3.]

[Footnote 10: See plate 6.]

[Footnote 11: I have already observed that Nile is a generic term and does not necessarily apply to the Egyptian river.]

[Footnote 12: Wooden locks and keys are also used in Egypt and Nubia.]

[Footnote 13: See the plan of a private house. Plate 5, Figs. 4. 5.]

[Footnote 14: It is doubtful whether the English traveller would have expressed himself in this manner.]

[Footnote 15: The value of the gold mitkhal is about twelve francs, and the silver mitkhal about four.]

[Footnote 16: It was the Moors of the tribe of Zawât, who assassinated Major Laing.]

[Footnote 17: The Hoden of the maps.]

[Footnote 18: Hedysarum alhagi.]

[Footnote 19: The Guigo without doubt.]

[Footnote 20: A kind of inn.]

[Footnote 21: Felous is a generic word signifying coined money. At Fez this name is also given to a copper coin resembling the _gu_ of Egypt.]

[Footnote 22: This is the river which on the maps is called Sebou, and into which the sea ascends.]

[Footnote 23: M. Amédée Jaubert has already presented to the Geographical Society a translation of the _first climate_ of the geography of el-Edricy, from the manuscript which he has discovered: the entire work will be printed in the collection of this society’s memoirs. The Rev. M. Renouard is also preparing in London, a translation of another inedited manuscript of the same geographer.]

[Footnote 24: See _Geogr. Nubiens_, by Gabriel Sionit., p. 7, 9, Paris, 1619, in-4to, and Hartmann, _Edrisii Africa_, p. 28 to 55 and _pass_. Gotting. 1795, 8vo.]

[Footnote 25: Agadez, according to M. Walckenaer. See his learned _Recherches géographiques sur l’Intérieur de l’Afrique Septentr._ p. 11, in which work almost all the materials which should be consulted by those who are studying the history of African discoveries are quoted and collected.]

[Footnote 26: M. Walckenaer has already remarked that on the ancient map on wood in the King’s library (of the middle of the 14th century) Timbuctoo is indicated by the name of Tenbuch. Its foundation dated about a century and a half earlier. _Rech. sur l’Afr. Septentr. &c._, p. 14.]

[Footnote 27: _Insula verò Ulil in mare sita est, etc_. _Geograph. Nubiens_ p. 7. But _bahr_ signifies both river and sea.]

[Footnote 28: This same extract more complete has just been published in an English translation by Mr. S. Lee, under the title of Travels of Ibn Batuta, etc. London, 1829.—During my abode at Cairo, I heard mention of a complete manuscript, the work of Ben-Batouta, deposited in the library of the Mosque el-Azhar.]

[Footnote 29: Perhaps تغازي and not تغاري Teghary as read by Burckhardt, or Tegherry, which would conduct him to the centre of the kingdom of Fez: M. Kosegarten read تغازا and Mr. Lee ثغازي in one of the manuscripts.]

[Footnote 30: Oualet, according to M. Walckenaer.]

[Footnote 31: This opinion is adopted by M. Walckenaer (_Recherches sur l’Afrique sept._ &c. p. 32).]

[Footnote 32: According to the traveller Adrien Partarrieu, a man of colour, resident at Senegal, who was well acquainted with the languages both of Africa and Europe, and capable of making good geographical observations.]

[Footnote 33: See _Histoire complète des Voyages et Découvertes en Afrique_, by Dr. Leyden, and H. Murray, French translation, vol. 3, page 173 and the following.]

[Footnote 34: The position of Timbo should first be corrected from the observations of Major Laing.]

[Footnote 35: It has already been remarked (if an author may be permitted to quote himself) in the _Réflexions sur l’état des connaissances relatives au cours du Dhiolibâ_ (page 23) that the catastrophe appears to have occurred about the 4th of January 1806. He set out from Sansanding about the 19th of November, his voyage therefore could only have lasted about forty seven days.]

[Footnote 36: Compare the map of Park’s second journey, in the “Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa,” etc. London, 1815.]

[Footnote 37: Otherwise Benjamin Rose.]

[Footnote 38: _Nouveau Voyage dans l’Intérieur de l’Afrique, fait en 1820_, etc. translated from the English by the Chevalier de Frasans, Paris, 1817.]

[Footnote 39: Such a change cannot have taken place in eighteen years.]

[Footnote 40: See plate 6, in this volume, and the explanation.]

[Footnote 41: See below, Chapter II, and _Nouveau Voyage_, &c. p. 79.]

[Footnote 42: It has been already observed, that he gave five Arabic words, as those of Timbuctoo. _Nouveau Voyage_, page 175.]

[Footnote 43: The substitution of Bahr zahara (river of the desert) for Marzarah, as proposed by M. Dupuis, appears improbable. See _Rel. d’Adams_, page 136.]

[Footnote 44: See below, page 217, the analysis of the general map, § II, Art. 3.]

[Footnote 45: See further on for what relates to the basins of the different rivers.]

[Footnote 46: From this lofty range the Rio-Grande and the rivers of the Timannie flow to the west and south-west; the Gambia, the Falemé, the Bâfing or Senegal, to the north; and the Dhioliba and its tributaries, to the east. It is probably connected with the mountains vulgarly called _Kong_, a word the true signification of which is _mountain_.]

[Footnote 47: Several points however of these narratives, which I cannot here pretend to reconcile, yet remain to be elucidated.]

[Footnote 48: See the _Voyage dans l’Afrique occidentale de 1818 à 1821_, by Major William Gray, and the late Surgeon Dochard, Paris, 1826, translated by Mme. Ch. Huguet. Every one is acquainted with the unhappy issue of this mission, during which, however, interesting observations were made, equally worthy the attention of geographers and of philanthropists.]

[Footnote 49: See on this subject, the _Nouvelle Histoire générale des voyages_, &c. published by M. Walckenaer.]

[Footnote 50: See below, Art. 3, remarks on the extent of an hour’s and a day’s journey in Northern Africa.]

[Footnote 51: Ninety-six days exclusive of those of rest.]

[Footnote 52: The two days’ journey in a mountainous country must necessarily be valued at less than eighteen geographical miles each.]

[Footnote 53: See amongst others _La Sénégambie pour servir à la nouvelle Histoire générale des Voyages de M. Walckenaer &c._ par M. Dufour, 1828.]

[Footnote 54: It appears to me that M. Dufour, in his estimable work on Senegambia, restricts himself too scrupulously to the details of M. Mollien’s route, which nevertheless are very valuable.]

[Footnote 55: The Mandingoes place the Couranco, where Major Laing places the Soulimana, that is to say they prolong the Couranco to the N. W., towards the sources of the Dhioliba.]

[Footnote 56: All the rivulets near Kakondy nevertheless flow to the north into the Rio-Nuñez; but their course is short; perhaps also, some of the succeeding ones fall into the Rio-Grande.]

[Footnote 57: Sami to the west of Sego, 13° 17’ north, second journey of Mungo Park, _Journal of a Mission_, &c. London, 1815, page 149 and 150.]

[Footnote 58: It is nearly due N. E.]

[Footnote 59: See, farther on, the tracing of the course of the river.]

[Footnote 60: It is the same with that from Djenné to Timbuctoo.]

[Footnote 61: M. Walckenaer, as I have elsewhere said, was among the first to acknowledge the necessity of this alteration. See _Recherches_, &c. See also Vol. II, of the _Mémoires de la Société de Géographie_, and its _Bulletin_ or _Recueil périodique_.]

[Footnote 62: The journal shows four days’ distance; these must be days of twelve leagues: there are actually eight ordinary days’ journeys with the windings.]

[Footnote 63: See § V below.]

[Footnote 64: See § V. farther on.]

[Footnote 65: See Art. 3.]

[Footnote 66: See pages 457 and 464.]

[Footnote 67: In the map which accompanies his work, M. Walckenaer places Tafilet about 5° east of Morocco; but M. Lapie, in the map to M. Cochelet’s travels makes it only 3 degrees and a half distant. This is also the difference of longitude which results from the route of M. Caillié as traced by me, the positions of Morocco and Fez being moreover precisly known. The whole eastern part however of the empire of Morocco presents difficulties and uncertainties, which cause the necessity of new observations to be sensibly felt.]

[Footnote 68: May not the too great remoteness of Tafilet from Fez arise from the custom of which I have spoken, which always exaggerates itinerary distances?]

[Footnote 69: May not the word _beheim_ which in Arabic signifies cattle be here mistaken for the name of a place?]

[Footnote 70: About 300 miles south of Nun, 500 north of Tumbut, and 100 from the Ocean: it is evident that no point can fulfil all these conditions.]

[Footnote 71: Perhaps el-Quebly ال قبلي improperly pronounced; this word, signifying _which is to the south_, should, it is probable, be erased front the maps.]

[Footnote 72: For caravans moderately laden, see observations below.]

[Footnote 73: Toudeyni is at the distance of one day’s journey.]

[Footnote 74: There is reason to believe that the caravan rested several times during marches of more than twelve hours.]

[Footnote 75: El-Yabo a Berber town, is one day’s journey N. W. of Zenatyia.]

[Footnote 76: Afilé is near this place.]

[Footnote 77: I am not speaking of points more or less in the neighbourhood of the route, as Labé, or of the first part of the course of the Dhioliba.]

[Footnote 78: The lengths of the style and of the shadow were taken with cords, which have been brought back to France, and which I have measured with the utmost possible care, comparing them with a good copper metre.

The style was a very straight stick, placed quite vertically, by means of a plummet, which the traveller brought away with him, and which is deposited at the vice-consulate at Tangier, in the hands of M. Delaporte.]

[Footnote 79: I am indebted for this calculation, and for the following obliging notice to Lieut. Col. Corabœuf, of the corps of royal geographical engineers.

Zenithal distance of the superior edge of ⊙ 22° 22’
Semi-diameter of ⊙ 0° 16’
---------
22° 38’
Southern declination of ⊙ 13° 38’
---------
North latitude 9 0
]

[Footnote 80: Two thousand, eight hundred and forty nine miles and a quarter.]

[Footnote 81: I say nothing of the false information, which the natives, and especially the Moors, have wilfully given to Europeans, to keep them away from the centre of Africa; some out of fanaticism, others for fear of losing the advantages of commerce.]

[Footnote 82:

Zenithal distance of the superior edge of ⊙ 2° 26’
Semidiameter of ⊙ 0° 16’
---------
2 42
Northern declination of ⊙ 15 9’
---------
North latitude 17 51

I must not conceal the fact that M. Caillié made four similar observations in different places, which are too inconsistent with the itinerary to be made any use of.]

[Footnote 83: I have formerly given a rather remarkable example of an analogous application, in the height of the great pyramid of Memphis, measured by the assistance of mathematical instruments, and afterwards by the addition of the partial measures of the degrees, worked by imperfect processes. The results differ very little, but the number of the partial measures was 203.]

[Footnote 84: The latitude as determined by M. Walckenaer approaches very near to this result.]

[Footnote 85: See the Bulletin of the Geographical Society, the second volume of its memoirs, and the map of the Course of the Gambia beyond Coussaye etc.]

[Footnote 86: “An Account of the Empire of Morocco,” p. 240.]

[Footnote 87: In his letter dated from Timbuctoo, Major Laing speaks of a distance of fifteen days’ journeys between Sego and Timbuctoo; I find upon the map about three hundred and fifty-four miles in a direct line; the days’ journeys are of twenty four miles, or those of a light caravan.]

[Footnote 88: _The Journal of a Mission to the Interior of Africa_, &c. p. 164.]

[Footnote 89: _A Chart of the River Gambia_, &c.]

[Footnote 90: _Annales Maritimes_ for the year 1827, second part, vol. ii, p. 276.]

[Footnote 91: _Ann. Marit._ for the year 1828; second part, vol. i, pages 933 and 941.]

[Footnote 92: _The Journal_, &c. p. 21.]

[Footnote 93: M. de Beaufort has made, at Senegal, two observations which differ from the above by more than 5°, and others which exceed from 2 to 5 degrees: this variation is, no doubt, owing to local circumstances.]

[Footnote 94: The journeys of the subsequent days were shorter.]

[Footnote 95: It is the same with the route from Timbuctoo to Arbate.]

[Footnote 96: Impatience to arrive, and above all, the imperious necessity of reaching the wells, sufficiently account for these long journeys through the desert.]

[Footnote 97: _Recherches sur l’Afrique septentrionale_, &c., page 266.]

[Footnote 98: After all deductions.]

[Footnote 99: Or from 24 to 26, on account of a ten hours’ march of two miles and six-tenths an hour.]

[Footnote 100: The learned M. Eyriès in his _Geographical Observations_ on the discoveries of M. Mollien, confines the day’s journey to five leagues, or twelve geographical miles; this estimate applies only to certain cases, for example the long extended journeys of pedestrians, but not to the days’ journeys of ordinary caravans.]

[Footnote 101: _Carte générale des Etats du Nord de l’Afrique, &c._]

[Footnote 102: The data and calculations exhibited above, being the basis upon which I have reduced the itinerary map and used it for the general map, it is superfluous here to explain more at length the necessary differences between the two; but I have considered it equally my duty to give the first without modification, that is to say constructed solely upon the estimate of the journeys. I shall here give the general result of M. Caillié’s days’ journeys, which, as a whole, deserve attention for their continuity and extent.

+----------+-------+-------+---------+-------+---------+-----------+ | |Number |Number |Estimated|Number |Estimated|Number of | | |of |of |number |of |number of|geographic.| | |days |hours |of |hours |English |miles. | |JOURNEYS |of |of |English |journey|miles. | | | |actual |travel.|miles. |daily. +----+----+-----+-----+ | |travel.| | | |per |per |per |per | | | | | | |hour|day |hour |day | +----------+-------+-------+---------+-------+----+----+-----+-----+ | | | | | | | | | | |From |48 |176½ |529¼ |3,7 |3 |11,0|2,14 |9,43 | |Kakondy | | | | | | | | | |to Timé | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |„ Timé to |62 |148 |444 |2,4 |3 |7,2 |2,14 |6,17 | |Galia | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |„ Galia |26 |262 |524 |10 |2 |20 |1,43 |17,2 | |to | | | | | | | | | |Timbuctoo | | | | | | | | | |by water | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |„ |67 |630 |1260 |9,3 |2 |18,8|1,43 |16,1 | |Timbuctoo | | | | | | | | | |to Fez | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |„ Fez to |4 |45 |90 |11,2 |2 |22,5|1,43 |19,3 | |Arbate | | | | | | | | | | +-------+-------+---------+-------+----+----+-----+-----+ |Totals |207 |1261½ |2849¼ | „ |„ |„ |„ |„ | | | | | | | | | | | +----------+-------+-------+---------+-------+----+----+-----+-----+ | | | Progress of caravans heavily laden, by the hour in | | geographical miles: from 1⁹⁄₂₀ to 1½ | | | | „ moderately laden, by the hour in ditto. | | .from 2 to ³⁄₂₀ | +------------------------------------------------------------------+ ]

[Footnote 103: See Chapter 3.]

[Footnote 104: See Chapter 2 below.]

[Footnote 105: _Couaraba_, or _River-River_; thus the Africans call the Nile _Ba-ba_.]

[Footnote 106: See below § V.]

[Footnote 107: “This place,” says Leo, “is a very abundant mine of salt, whiter than marble, at the distance of about twenty days’ journey from any inhabited spot, and having wells of very salt water only.” The author does not give its exact situation. See _Descrip. Africæ_, 1. 6, p. 425, Figur. 1559.]

[Footnote 108: I apprehend this word to be corrupted by the Europeans because Kount, the same perhaps as Kant, is actually the name of a tribe of the Sahara, according to M. Caillié’s Itinerary.]

[Footnote 109: Perhaps a different place from Walet, as I have conjectured above.]

[Footnote 110: When properly written, I do not think that this word contains a ي _ye_. We may be satisfied, however, with the orthography تمبكتُ Temboctou, and the word is perhaps composed of the Berber particle _te_ or _ta_, as Tamaroc, Takant, Tarekne, T-rarzas, T-razah, etc., and of _m-boctou_, formed like M-dayara. I know that Ben Batouta writes Tenboctou, تنبكتوا The only doubt remaining is relative to the use of the _m_ or _n_. See _The Travels of Ibn Batouta_, English translation by Mr. Lee, London 1829, p. 237.]

[Footnote 111: See in § V further on, several remarks upon the nomenclature.]

[Footnote 112: On the left bank the Tankisso, and several others; on the right bank the Couaraba, the Bagoé, &c.]

[Footnote 113: Volume II of the Memoirs of the Geographical Society, page 54.]

[Footnote 114: Speaking of the sight of the river, which he obtained from the heights of Toniba, at four leagues distance, Park exclaims: “I once more saw the Niger rolling its immense stream along the plain.” (_The Journal of a Mission_, &c. London, 1815, page 143).]

[Footnote 115: See Section III below.]

[Footnote 116: _Journal of a Mission, &c._, 144, and following pages.]

[Footnote 117: I have already called the reader’s attention to the fact that M. Walckenaer had carried this position at least two degrees farther west than the old maps. Subsequent observations, which I have employed myself in collecting, have proved that a change in this direction was necessary. To judge of its extent it was essential to have good observations taken at Galam, (or at Bakel), as well as a new itinerary between Senegambia and the Dhioliba. It is on these more accurate data that I have endeavoured to work.]

[Footnote 118: On occasion of the rains, the useful assistance he derived from his English umbrella may be remarked, not only for the shelter it afforded him, but for the importance which the natives attached to it, the admiration it produced, and the advantage he derived from that admiration. This narrative shews that this is one of the portable articles which Europeans would be most certain of exporting with success to Africa.]

[Footnote 119: The Marabouts write this word عَراَوَان]

[Footnote 120: See the description of this city in Mr. Jackson’s work, quoted above, and that of Timbuctoo, in the Travels of Robert Adams and of Riley, in Leo Africanus, and in the _Recherches_ of M. Walckenaer, &c.]

[Footnote 121: The king of Tombuto, according to Leo, had three thousand horsemen under his command, and an almost innumerable multitude of archers. One very remarkable circumstance is that fire destroyed, according to this author, (if we read _oppidi pars_) _almost half the city in the space of five hours_. Leo’s recital is the most important, and perhaps the most authentic, of any we have hitherto possessed. These motives induce me to place it entire before the reader, in order that he may compare it with the new narrative. I shall quote the Latin version made from the Italian of Leo (2nd edition), though it is not quite so accurate as might be wished: it is well known that Leo wrote it originally in Arabic. See Joannis Leonis Africani de totius Africæ Descriptione lib, Tiguri, 1559. 431 and following pages.

TUMBUTUM REGNUM.

Hujus regni nomen nostris ferè temporibus ab
ejusdem nominis oppido desumptum volunt, cujus conditorem fuisse
dicunt quemdam Mensè-Suleiman, hegiræ anno sexcentesimo decimo:
in duodecimo milliario à quodam fluviolo situm fuit, _quod_
è Nigro flumine effluebat; cujus domus omnes in tuguriola
cretacea[A] stramineis tectis sunt mutatæ. Visitur tamen
elegantissimum quoddam templum, cujus murus ex lapidibus atque
calce vivo est fabricatus: deindè et palatium quoddam regium à
quodam Granatæ viro artificiosissimo conditum. Frequentissimæ
hìc sunt artificum, mercatorum, præcipuè autem telæ atque
gossypii textorum, officinæ. Hùc mercatores barbari pannum ex
Europâ afferunt. Hujus quoque regionis mulieres faciem tegunt,
ancillis tamen exceptis, iisque quæ omnia ad victum necessaria
vendunt. Incolæ, ac inter hos exteri præsertim, sunt ditissimi,
adeò ut qui jam regem agit, utramque filiam duobus mercatoribus
ditissimis in uxores dederit. Frequentissimi hìc putei, qui
aquam præbent dulcissimam; ac quoties Niger flumen excrescit,
ejus aquam ductibus quibusdam in urbem trahunt. Regio est
frumentis, pecudibus, lacte atque butyro copiosissima: salis
verò summa est penuria; hùc enim à Tegasa, quod oppidum in
quingentesimo abest milliario, adferri solet. Ego cùm hìc
essem, vidi salis sarcinam unam, quantùm camelus ferre potuit,
octoginta emi aureis. Tumbuti rex opulentissimus bracteas aliquot
atque sceptra habet, quorum nonnulla mille et trecentarum sunt
librarum. Magnificam optimèque instructam alit aulam: quoties
aliquò proficiscitur, camelo insidet, qui à nobilibus duci
solet; idem evenit quoties ad bellum proficiscitur; milites
verò omnes equites sunt. Hunc si quis regem alloqui velit,
ad pedes primùm procidit, deindè terram sumens in caput atque
humeros sternit: soletque hic fère mos ab illis servari, qui
nunquam anteà regi sunt locuti, aut qui ab alio principe hùc
legati sunt missi. Equitum semper tria millia habet, pedites
propemodùm innumeros, qui arcubus sagittas emittunt veneno
infectas. Frequentissimè cum his belligerantur, qui tributum
persolvere recusant, et quotquot prælio capere possunt, Tumbuti
mercatoribus vendunt. Magna hìc est equorum paucitas; mercatores
atque aulici pusillos quosdam alunt, quibus in itinere peragendo
uti solent; præstantissimi autem equi à Barbaria adducuntur;
Rex verò simul atque audit mercatores cum equis appulisse,
mox numerum sibi adferri jubet, deindè omnium præstantissimum
sibi deligit, pretiumque liberalissime persolvit. Judæis omnibus
adeò se hostem atrocem præbet, ut nullos omninò in ea civitate
admittat: si quos Barbaros aliquid cum Judæis commercii habere
intelligit, statim illorum bona proscribere jubet. Magna hìc
est judicum, doctorum, sacerdotum, atque virorum doctissimorum,
copia, qui liberalissimis regiis aluntur stipendiis. Infiniti
hìc libri manuscripti ex Barbaria adferuntur; è quibus
multò plures pecuniæ quàm ex reliquiis omnibus mercibus
colliguntur. Horum moneta aurea est, nullis figuris insignita:
in rebus autem minutioribus cochleis quibusdam utuntur quæ hùc
ex Persarum regione convehi solent, harum quadringentæ aureo
æquivalent: aureorum autem sex, cum duabus unius aurei tertiis,
unciam unam pendent. Homines naturâ sunt mites atque placidi;
à vigesimâ quartâ in primam usque noctis horam cantando atque
saltando omnes ferè civitatis partes ambiunt. Mancipia utriusque
sexûs quàm plurima alunt: estque oppidum ignis injuriæ maximè
obnoxium; ubi jàm secundùm ad hos venissem dimidia ferè
_oppida_ pars quinque horarum spatio igne deleta fuit. Nullum
in suburbio hortum aut fructibus consitum locum reperies.

CABRA OPPIDUM.

Cabra sic satis amplum absque muris ad
pagi modum compositum oppidum, distat à Tumbuto ad flumen
Nigrum in duodecimo ferè milliario; hìc mercatores ad Gineæ
aut Melli regnum navigare cupientes, naves conscendunt. Hujus
tàm cives quàm ædificia Tumbuti ædificiis atque civibus non
admodùm sunt inferiora: hùc Nigritæ navigio undique confluere
solent. In hac civitate Tumbuti rex judicem quemdam constituit,
qui lites inter eos componeret: molestum enim erat toties
in anno eam ob causam eò proficisci. Ego hìc regis fratrem
Abu-Bacr, cognomine Pargama, novi hominem, colore quidem nigrum,
cæterùm animo atque ingenio candidissimum. Frequentissimi hìc
exoriuntur morbi, qui rempublicam mirum in modum minuunt. Idque
propter ciborum ineptissimam commixtionem: pisces enim lacte,
butyro atque carnibus commiscent; estque hic præcipuus ferè
Tumbuti cibus.
]

[Footnote A: These words are not a translation of _capanne fatte di pali, coperte di creta_, in the Italian text.]

[Footnote 122: _Recherches sur l’Afrique Sept. &c._, page 184.]

[Footnote 123: _Recherches sur l’Afrique Sept. &c._, page 184. It is true that this itinerary is less worthy of credit than that of Sheik Haggy-Cassem, translated by M. Delaporte, the date of which seems to be 1805, and which agrees on many points with M. Caillié. Those who have made this part of Africa the object of their studies will perceive some evident fiction in the former work.]

[Footnote 124: From Tangier to Timbuctoo, 450 leagues in a direct line; from Timbuctoo to Bouré 200 leagues, total 650 leagues; with the return 1300. From St. Louis to Caignon 110 leagues; from Caignon to Bouré 120; total 230, and with the return 460: difference in a direct line, 420, and with the return 840.]

[Footnote 125: See the French translation, by Messrs. Eyriès and de la Renaudière, tome II, supplement, pages 298, etc.]

[Footnote 126: The English translation of this document has here joined the countries of _Fouta-Torou_ and _Darboz_; the latter cannot be San-Salvador, as the translator imagines.]

[Footnote 127: Similar instances have induced me long since to adopt the _dh_ or _gh_ in transcribing several African names, particularly in the word _Dhioliba_, independently of the meaning of the word _Dhioli_, which the natives would probably write جلي.]

[Footnote 128: I have however somewhere seen this name translated by _Black River_; the Banimma is marked on the eastern side, as well as the Balio.]

[Footnote 129: _The Narrative of Travels and Discoveries in Northern and Central Africa, by Major Denham and C. H. Clapperton._ London, 1826, page 109 of Clapperton’s journal.]

[Footnote 130: I perceive also the name of Jerry amongst those of the districts subject to Mohammed-Labou: (Massina, Temboctou, Jerry) does this name stand for Jenné?]

[Footnote 131: The comparison of these two African maps with the accounts of Isaaco and Amadi-Fatouma, Mungo Park’s guides, affords results not unworthy of attention: but I have not room to deduce them.]

[Footnote 132: See “_Quarterly Review_.” See also _Réflexions sur l’état des Connaissances relatives au Cours du Dhioliba_, page 27.]

[Footnote 133: _Ibidem_, page 25.]

[Footnote 134: See above, Vol. I, the account of his first travels.]

[Footnote 135: On the 8th of October he arrived in France, five months after his departure from Timbuctoo; from this time the period of his compulsory residence in Morocco must be deducted. The Geographical Society awarded to him its highest premium at its general meeting on the 26th of December 1828, only seven months after he quitted Timbuctoo.]

[Footnote 136: It was during the dry season that the English travellers found it to be a hundred yards wide; but it is very broad at other times.]

[Footnote 137: The late Malte-Brun adopted this opinion immediately after the publication of the English travels to Saccatoo.]

[Footnote 138: See _Ephémérid. Géogr._ for the year 1803.]

[Footnote 139: Is it possible to quote this estimable traveller, who united so many extraordinary qualities, without offering a tribute of regret to his memory? His loss has deprived science of more than one discovery: all, however, has not perished with him; the account of his travels has been preserved; and it is to be hoped that it will speedily be published, with his maps and drawings.]

[Footnote 140: See _Mémoire sur la Communication du Nil des Noirs avec le Nil d’Egypte_, p. 9.]

[Footnote 141: Funda appears to be less than a hundred leagues from the sea, measuring the distance by the current.]

[Footnote 142: A Dissertation on the Course and probable Termination of the Niger, London, 1829.]

[Footnote 143: M. Chauvet, however has just published a conjecture coinciding with several different accounts, and possessing the advantage of embracing the whole question of the rivers which traverse Northern Africa in every direction: his opinion is developed at great length, and I should here insist upon the merit of this explanation, had not the author prevented me, by quoting my opinion as an authority. (_Revue Encycl._ October 1829).]

[Footnote 144: The numerals are the same as in Bambara.]

[Footnote 145: I have added within parentheses the words given by Mungo Park to shew the frequent agreement between the two travellers, the differences arise from the diversity of the countries through which they travelled.

It is to be regretted that travellers, when collecting the words of an unknown language, do not select peculiar and characteristic terms: it would be easier, by following this method of comparing the different idioms, to discover their family resemblance or their original dissimilarity. With this view, I have formed a rather extended specimen of a vocabulary principally for the use of travellers in Africa, with a methodic mode of interrogation (See _Atlas Ethn. de M. Ad. Balbi_, page xlviij).

I have also formed a collection of vocabularies of more than thirty idioms of Northern Africa, which may serve as a second part of the _Vocabulaire des Voyageurs_.—E. J.]

[Footnote 146: The _r_ is changed into _l_ in this word and many others see below.—E. J.]

[Footnote 147: The third numeral order of the Mandingoes, called _kemmé_, and which answers to a hundred, is composed of only eight tens; so that our hundred is equal to their hundred and twenty, which they express by _kemmé_ ni mouga (_a hundred_ and twenty). Their hundred being only eighty, their thousand is equal to eight of our hundreds.]

[Footnote 148: An opening in general. See the note, page 384.]

[Footnote 149: M. Caillié has observed that the word _mountain_ is expressed by _kong_. Mungo Park has taken a generic term for the name of a particular mountain; Park himself here confirms my observations, by giving the word _konko_. I may add that the term for head is _koung_ in Mandingo; and there is an analogy in the sense.—E. J.]

[Footnote 150: This word also signifies mouth, no doubt because it expresses that which opens, the ear, the mouth, the door, or any other opening.]

[Footnote 151: The _gu_, _gh_, or _dh_, has here a guttural sound.]

[Footnote 152: The ȷ̈ is used here, and in all the words that should have a strong guttural pronunciation; it is in the Spanish _j_, and the Arabic خ, kha.]

[Footnote 153: _Inta_, in Arabic, thou.]

[Footnote 154: _So_ signifies village.]

[Footnote 155: I do not know the name of that.]

[Footnote 156: I have added between parentheses many words of the language spoken at Timbuctoo, according to Captain Lyon and Major Denham: these last are accompanied by the letter D.; it is remarkable that they are all confirmed by M. Caillié, and at the same time scarcely one of the others. The words given by Robert Adams to M. Dupuis are in the same predicament as those of Captain Lyon. This disagreement alone cannot prove the falsity of the travels of Adams; but it is at least well worthy of attention. See above Chap. 1. § 1.—E. J.]

[Footnote 157: According to Bowdich.]

[Footnote 158: A shell which passes for money.]

[Footnote 159: This word is perhaps meat in Arabic, taken for the act of eating, in consequence of an error similar to that noticed at the word hand.]

[Footnote 160: Or _akhod_. This is an Arabic word which signifies take; the motion of the hand has doubtless been taken for the hand itself.]

[Footnote 161: The resemblance of this word to _ushti_, _to drink_ cannot fail to be here remarked. Is it not the position of the hand in the act of drinking which has caused the confusion made by Capt. Lyon?—E. J.]

[Footnote 162: This should, no doubt be the same word, _tarno_ or _tamo_.]

[Footnote 163: The English mile is intended; the traveller having, before he quitted Sierra-Leone, acquired the habit of estimating his march, in a given time, according to a space measured in English miles.

All the other details of the route, and those which relate to the accidents of the soil, are noted in the journal of the travels to which it will be necessary to have recourse in order fully to understand the circumstances of the march.]

[Footnote 164: Beyond Kera, the journeys were noted by hours, which have been here turned into miles at the rate of two miles an hour. The night marches, directed by the true north are summarily mentioned in the column of observations.]