Chapter XXIV

Wells of Amoul-Gragim — Enormous serpents — High sand-hills called Helk — Wells of Amoul-Taf — Hills of various-coloured granite — Wells of el-Ekseif; very good water — Wells called Marabouty, el-Guedea, Mayara, and Sibicia — High and steep mountains, defiles and precipices — A severe fall — Encampment of Sidi-Aly —El-Harib — The Berbers — Tatta — Description of the country of el-Harib, customs; the tribes who inhabit it.

On the 5th of June, at three o’clock in the morning, we continued to ascend lofty downs of loose sand; our direction was northerly: the western side of these downs was covered with thorny plants, which served the camels for food. The poor animals moved with so much difficulty, that our progress was slow and painful; we advanced but a mile an hour.

Towards noon, having climbed to a great elevation, we found ourselves on an extensive plain of very hard grey sand: we halted near the wells of Amoul-Gragim; which, like the preceding, were filled up; these are only seven or eight feet deep; their water is muddy and salt, but less disagreeable to the taste than that of Trasas.

This night seemed cooler than those which had preceded it: my rest was disturbed by the appearance of a serpent, which suddenly awoke me, and had nearly reached my head when I perceived it. I rose in haste; the reptile was alarmed by the noise I made, and returned immediately to its hole, which was not far distant: this serpent was five feet and a half long, and as thick as the thigh of a boy twelve years old. The idea of so unpleasant a neighbour banished sleep for the remainder of the night: my travelling companions also experienced similar visits, and appeared no less dismayed by them than myself.

The whole of the 6th was employed in watering our camels; we procured for them stalks of _hedysarum-alhagi_, and branches of the tamarisk, which grows on the plain at some distance from the wells: these were quickly devoured. This night we lay down as on the preceding, and I was again annoyed with the sight of enormous serpents.

At four o’clock in the morning of the 7th, we directed our course to the N. N. E., among the chain of sand-hills called Helk; but these are not by much so high as those we had crossed the day before. Sidi-Aly, whom I questioned on the subject, and who at times vouchsafed an answer, assured me that in none of his former travels in the Soudan had he seen such lofty sand-hills; his route had always been more northerly.

As our road was better than that of the preceding day, we travelled at least two miles an hour. About half past eleven we halted at the foot of the chain, on a somewhat hilly plain of grey gravel, the finest I had yet seen.

On the 8th, we set out at four in the morning, taking a northerly direction, over a sandy and tolerably level soil. Near noon we halted in a plain of firm ground, covered with sharp flints as flat as slate, and mixed with small gravel; this plain is surrounded by gently swelling downs. I longed to emerge from these frightful deserts, where the only indications of animated nature were the distressing east wind, and some light-footed antelopes, which swept across them with the rapidity of an arrow. I saw in several places skeletons of these animals, dried up by the burning sun; they had undoubtedly died of thirst.

On the 9th, at about one in the morning, we pursued our journey northwards; the soil was covered with black gravel, and studded with pointed rocks of the same colour. A little before eleven we halted at the wells of Amoul-Taf, situated among rocks of grey granite; it was necessary to open them; they are only four feet deep, the water sweet, but not plentiful; tamarisks flourish in the neighbourhood. We surrounded these wells with straw to prevent the sand from falling in.

The camels were but half watered, and we filled our leathern bags in preparation for departure.

At four o’clock in the morning of the 10th, we continued our progress northward; and climbed a steep hill of granite with much difficulty, finding no beaten track. The soil we traversed was broken by hillocks of black gravel, and by sharp rocks: the country offered not the smallest sign of vegetation. Towards nine in the morning we descended into a plain, where we found a little grass, and some very stunted _mimosa ferruginea_.

Here we rested to let our camels graze, and killed one, which, quite overcome with the heat, could carry the baggage no longer: its flesh was distributed amongst the people of the caravan, and made us a very indifferent supper, but for want of better we were obliged to eat it.

On the 11th we proceeded at four in the morning. If my inclinations had been consulted, the journey would have been delayed till sunrise, for I was much fatigued by rising every day so early. I was so sleepy that it was with much difficulty I could keep my seat upon my camel. I frequently called to mind that the only chance of surviving the journey lay in hastening our march; this idea supported my courage, and restored my exhausted strength: I confess nevertheless, that I envied the fate of those who can purchase fame at a cheaper rate than by such painful trials and continually recurring dangers.

We still travelled northward over a dry soil resembling that which we had traversed on the preceding day. As we advanced in this direction, the heat gradually diminished, and our thirst became less intolerable. About ten o’clock we halted; the tent was pitched, and I lay down in the hope of obtaining a little rest: next to thirst, the greatest torment I suffered arose from the fatiguing necessity of rising at all hours of the night, to pursue our journey.

On the 12th, at two in the morning, still half asleep, I mounted my camel and we resumed our route northward, over a level, hard and stony soil: I saw some mimosas scattered in the plain at great distances apart, without any other sign of vegetation. About nine, we descended, through a very narrow path, into a deep ravine, surrounded by enormous blocks of granite, of a pink and various other colours, in strata of eighteen or twenty inches thick. The camels, fatigued with so bad a road, had much difficulty in descending amongst these rocks. It was ten A. M., when we halted at the wells of el-Ekseif, situated at the very bottom of the ravine. These wells, or springs, are shaded by a pretty grove of palm-trees of beautiful appearance; such at least is the impression produced by the contrast of this umbrageous and refreshing spot with the desolation that reigns around, and with the bare and arid region which we had just crossed; a few reeds and some rushes also grow round about.

This verdure, embosomed among immense rocks of granite, on a spot where, as far as the eye can reach, no other trace of vegetation is perceptible, has something at the same time wild and pleasing, which produces an effect strikingly picturesque.

The water of the wells of el-Ekseif is very good; I found a real luxury in drinking it, for it was sweet, bright, and limpid.

Tired of eating nothing but boiled rice, I went to a Moor who treated me with better fare. I recounted to him my privations, in which he seemed to take some interest, exhorting me to bear my misfortunes with patience, and inviting me to partake of his supper, which consisted of rice, boiled with meat dried in the sun, and seasoned with allspice; the meat he had brought from Jenné, in which town he had lived several years occupied in commerce, I thought, by making him a little present, to obtain in return frequent invitations to his meals, and therefore gave him a piece of twenty _sous_, which he accepted; he considered himself however under no engagement in my favour, for he invited me no more.

On the 13th of June, we remained beside the wells to recover from our fatigues, and refresh ourselves with copious draughts of the delicious water. The soil on which we were encamped was dry, and full of stones, which we were obliged to clear away from the spot where the camels were to lie, lest they should be hurt. In the evening water was so abundant here that I was enabled to cool my body with a calabash of cold water, and I found great benefit from it.

On the 14th, we set out at five in the morning, still pursuing the same course. Descending into a plain where we found a little herbage, we halted about nine o’clock to allow the camels to graze. The road had been difficult and we had travelled about two miles an hour. At five in the evening, judging that the camels were satisfied, we continued our journey northwards, but had scarcely proceeded a mile when we were obliged to wait for part of our company, who had stayed behind; the ground which we were upon was composed of very hard grey sand, covered with fine white gravel. Towards eleven at night, the stragglers, whom their beasts had carried to a distance in pursuit of food, arrived, and we resumed our route, guided by the pole-star; we travelled all night and till eleven in the morning of the 15th.

On the 15th, we met with the same soil as the day before, without any vegetation. A strong north wind prevailed and greatly incommoded us. At half past five P. M., after drinking some _dokhnou_, we again entered upon the desert. Travelling northwards all night, we found the air unusually cold, but free from fog.

On the 16th of June, at sunrise, we saw a little chain of hills stretching from north to south; they appeared black, which made me presume that they were granite.

About ten in the morning, we rested at the foot of a chain of hills of loose sand, which ran in a parallel direction with the granite hills.

At two in the morning of the 17th, we broke up our camp, and proceeded northwards; having on either side of the road hills of very fine sand. The poor camels cropped as they went along the heads of some prickly plants, the only species of vegetable which they could find. About ten we halted at the wells called Marabouty, situated a quarter of a mile east of our route, amongst high hills of moving sand: these wells, which are no deeper than the last, were also filled up, but we soon opened them.

I eagerly pressed forward to ask for drink, for I had not been able to obtain any on the road: my thirst was intense, and augmented by a violent westerly wind, which drifted the sand and rendered the journey most fatiguing. The neighbourhood of the wells is covered with the excrements of camels, to such a degree, that if the Moors were not well acquainted with their situation, these traces would suffice to point them out: the water is very good.

Another camel at the point of death was killed here and some of its flesh boiled for eating. Sidi-Aly had some pieces dried, and sprinkled with salt, to preserve them as a luxury for himself during the remainder of the journey.

On the 18th, at seven in the morning, we proceeded N. N. E. at first amongst the sand-hills afterwards, over a plain of black gravel. About ten we halted to feed the camels, and a meal was prepared with part of the animal killed the day before. This mess did not provoke the appetite, but necessity taught us to eat it. One particular that I think worthy of remark is that my health continued perfectly good in the desert, notwithstanding the privations of every kind which I experienced. I had no fear of perishing but by thirst; and this was increased by the apprehension that we might lose our way and wander to a distance from the wells. Providence, however, watched for my preservation, and I escaped even this peril, the greatest, perhaps, which these frightful solitudes present.

At one o’clock in the morning of the 19th, we resumed our route over a hard soil covered with gravel, and followed the same course; some hills of little elevation were scattered over the country. At noon we arrived at a spot which offered a little grass, and there halted. A man was deputed to take care of the cattle, and we assembled under the tent for refreshment, and to shelter ourselves from the wind which now blew up clouds of dust.

On the 20th, at one in the morning, we resumed our journey northwards, over loose sand, and halted at ten; our camels found some prickly shrubs scattered over the plain. Towards midnight we broke up, and again travelled towards the north over some hillocks which rendered our progress slow and painful.

On the 21st, at nine A. M. we halted in the midst of sand-hills, amongst which grass grew pretty plentifully. We were a mile west of the wells of el-Guedea, where we found tolerably good water: the heat was greater than on the preceding days and it was increased by a dead calm: we were this day fully occupied in laying in a stock of water.

On the 22nd we recommenced our journey, still proceeding northwards; our progress was slow, as the camels browzed by the way on some thorny and half dried plants. The soil was of the same nature as that we had last traversed. At ten in the morning we halted to avoid the heat of the day, and about ten at night broke up our camp, directing our course northward amongst sandy hills till day-light, when we came to a more level soil covered with white gravel.

On the 23rd, at nine in the morning, we suspended our progress. Some pieces of camel’s flesh dried in the sun were boiled for our dinner, but proved as hard as wood. The same evening at nine, we broke up, and, after proceeding northward for three hours, turned to the N. N. W. over a level soil, without any vegetation, and overspread with small gravel.

On the 24th, at eleven in the morning, the heat being insufferable, we halted under our tent till it moderated, drinking a little dokhnou; and, about four in the afternoon, after having eaten some rice boiled with the flesh of the camel, we again advanced, bearing N. N. W. till sunset, when we turned northward to cross a chain of low sand-hills on which some grass grows. I learnt from my comrades that the Moors of el-Harib come as far as this place in the rainy seasons to pasture their flocks. We continued our journey till two in the morning, over a hard gravelly soil and some hills of loose sand; after which we halted till dawn, lying down beside our camels to rest. On each side of the place where we stopped were great rocks of granite, amongst which were seen some miserable plants of _mimosa ferruginea_.

On the 25th, at four in the morning, there being sufficient light, we slowly advanced amidst large blocks of quartz, among which I saw many thorny plants and stunted mimosas, the bare branches of which the famished camels cropped and ate with avidity. Whether these animals were sensible that they were approaching their own country and the moment when their wants would be satisfied, I know not, but they appeared more sprightly and vigorous than usual. About ten o’clock the same morning, we halted at the wells of Mayara, situated in a defile surrounded by granite and some mimosas. The water of these wells, which are only four or five feet deep, is salt; its taste is detestable: we had still one leather bottle full of good water, but the Moors would not allow me my share of it; they kept it all to themselves, and told me to go and drink with the camels. Three Moorish slaves, who were of our party, were more fortunate than I was; a small portion of the good water was given to them. At a hundred and fifty feet from the salt wells, there is another, the water of which is fit to drink, but it was nearly dry; several Moors passed part of the day in emptying it, and towards sunset I could quench my thirst at my ease.

On the 26th, I was awakened at one in the morning: we proceeded N. N. E. between two hills sixty or seventy fathoms in height, composed of great blocks of grey quartz and some granites of the same colour: many mimosas and _hedysarum alhagi_ grow in this defile, the soil of which consists of grey sand. So long was it since I had seen any thing similar in point of vegetation, that I thought myself in the most beautiful country in the world.

About eight in the morning, we entered a plain of black sand, in which we perceived here and there spots resembling little islands covered with herbage and mimosas. In proportion as we approached the limits of the desert, nature appeared less desolate. At eleven, we halted upon loose sand: we experienced the whole day a stifling heat, which created a dreadful thirst; as night drew on, some rice was boiled as usual for supper. About ten o’clock on the same day, we started towards the N. N. E., over a soil broken by deep ravines, on the edge of which some vegetation appeared. Our progress was slow, for the camels were allowed to graze as they went on; we proceeded but two miles an hour.

At nine in the morning of the 27th, we stopped by the wells of Sibicia, situated between blocks of pale rose-coloured granite, and surrounded by a pleasant grove of date-trees, the verdure of which presented an agreeable contrast with the rest of the soil. The water of these wells, which are only seven or eight feet deep, is clear and delicious to drink.

About six in the evening, being occupied in prayer, we heard a musket-shot at a distance; this noise did not surprise us, as we knew that Sidi-Aly had gone on before from el-Guedea, to fix upon a spot where his camp might be pitched, and we expected that he would send some one to meet us and conduct us thither. Several Moors ran immediately towards the point whence the sound proceeded: it was actually a Moor sent to us by Sidi-Aly, who informed us that in two days we should reach the camp of the Moors of el-Harib. He was the bearer of letters for several members of the caravan, acquainting them with the state of the country and the prices of merchandise and provisions; part of the evening was employed in reading them publicly, so that the whole caravan shared the benefit of the news. We set out again at ten in the evening, taking a northerly course; and travelled all night over a gravelly soil.

On the 28th, about seven in the morning, we descended a very steep hill, bestrewed with rocks of granite, soft and crumbling, in strata from twelve to eighteen inches thick. The road was very difficult and even dangerous for the beasts of burden. About ten in the morning, we pitched our tents in a plain, upon a stony soil, and surrounded by hills of granite of the most arid appearance.

I was not suffered quietly to enjoy the shelter which this halt offered us; for the Moors incessantly tormented me. Sidi-Body, the same who proposed to Sidi-Molut to sell me, carried his indignities so far as to strike me. I was obliged to take refuge under another tent, where I lay down for the remainder of the day. The wind blew with violence; I was very thirsty and could obtain no water from my companions. The strangers to whom I applied pitied my situation and gave me a little. I passed the day without eating; in the evening I was indebted for a handful of rice to the generosity of my new hosts, who awoke me that I might share their meal.

As we approached the encampment of el-Harib, some Moors prepared their dress, with the intention of preceding us on the following day, in order, no doubt, to enjoy as soon as possible the pleasure of meeting their families. One of them, the son of Sidi-Aly, my guide, had paid court to me for several days, that I might be induced to lend him my wrapper, his own being torn: as I had less reason to complain of him than of his comrades, during the journey, I consented to lend it to him.

About nine at night, we again decamped and took a north-west direction, as we had done from seven till ten in the morning. Toward midnight, we changed our course to N. N. E. through the passes of high mountains of granite, amongst which were pools of salt water. Enormous masses of these rocks, suspended over our heads, seemed to threaten to tumble and crush us. In one of these defiles, the camel that I rode took fright, turned aside and ran away. I was thrown flat on my back upon the gravel.

The pain I experienced was so great, that I was persuaded some of my bones were broken, and indeed that I was near my end. A Moor came to my assistance; he took me in his arms, and pressed me violently against his breast, which afforded me some ease. He assisted me to overtake my camel, which had been stopped, and made it knee, that I might remount with more ease; this Moor was a stranger, who did not belong to the company of Aly. My sufferings were still so acute, that I could not restrain my groans; I conceived that my skull was fractured; I experienced a giddiness in my head and could scarcely see. I was not relieved from these symptoms till the following day, and the pains in my loins continued with much violence, so that I could not stoop without great difficulty. I felt the effects of this fall for more than two months. The Moor who assisted me to rise placed me himself upon my camel, which I should have been incapable of mounting without help.

To issue from these defiles, we were obliged to climb a steep and lofty mountain; the path was narrow and winding, and presented considerable difficulties, in consequence of which all the company were required to alight from their camels. I alone continued to ride; I was so severely bruised that I should have found it impossible to walk any part of the way. This exposed me to numerous invectives from some of the Moors, who threatened to throw stones at me to compel me to dismount: those, however, who had witnessed my accident took my part, and I was allowed to proceed in peace.

The camels, exhausted by the fatigues of the journey, advanced with reluctance, took two or three steps, then stopped, painfully turning their heads first on one side and then on the other, uttering low moans, while they seemed to measure with their eyes the laborious task which still remained to be accomplished. It was with regret that I found myself obliged to continue mounted, for I pitied these unfortunate animals. The Moors, walking behind, encouraged them with their voices, repeating certain words in different tones, in the way of a song, which the camels appeared to understand.

The track frequently passed so near the edge of the rock, and was so narrow, that I thought it impossible to follow it without being thrown down frightful precipices. At length, having with great toil attained the summit, we discovered an extensive plain, the soil of which, composed of gravel and grey sand, is very hard and interspersed with thin flat stones, resembling slates, and of a grey and black colour.

On the 29th, about two in the morning, the soil changed, becoming more sandy, and offering some traces of vegetation. At daybreak we stopped to perform our devotions; after having returned thanks to God, those who wished to precede us set out for the camp upon fresh camels and went off at a swift pace.

We followed them soon afterwards, in a N. N. W. direction, over a hard soil covered with coarse grey gravel. About eight o’clock, we descended into a plain in which the vegetation was tolerably fine; I particularly remarked the tamarisk in considerable quantity. The herbage, though dry, on account of the season, afforded abundant nourishment to our camels.

The inhabitants of the camp, apprised of our arrival, hastened out to meet us: the women presented the children to their fathers, who expressed the greatest joy, embracing them alternately, and affectionately returning their caresses. I was much struck by this interesting scene, and could not avoid comparing it in my mind with the coldness, which amongst the Braknas the wife and children of Mohammed-Sidi-Moctar had manifested on occasion of his return to his family.

About nine o’clock in the morning, we arrived at the dwelling of Sidi-Aly. His camp belonged to the tribe of Body; it was composed of twelve or fifteen tents, covered with stuff made of camel’s hair, pitched in a spacious plain, to the north of which rose high mountains entirely bare and running from east to west. My joy on finding myself in an inhabited region was extreme; the idea that henceforth I might quench my thirst at my ease made me forget the fatigue of the desert.

On entering the camp my guide met me laughing, and asked me to give him my hand in token of peace: he inquired after my health and even lodged me in the tent of his aged sister, who was so prejudiced that she durst not approach me. I had soon numerous visits from men and women; for Aly had related to his countrymen the various circumstances which had determined me to cross the desert on my return to my own country. The women, whom I found much more curious than the men, teased me incessantly; they talked all together, so that I was at a loss which to listen to. In order to attract my attention, one struck me on the shoulder, another on the head, and another pulled me by my clothes. Sidi-Salah, to whom I had in the morning lent my wrapper, gave me some dates for my breakfast; I found them however so hard that I ate but few, which nevertheless renewed the pains in my jaws.

Aly, my guide, had couscous of wheat prepared for two Mahometan priests, of the Trajacants who had travelled with us: I expected that he would have offered me a small share, for I had eaten nothing throughout the day, except the bad dates which had been sent to me; but I was disappointed and compelled to wait patiently.

At sun-set, Aly killed a fine sheep to regale the priests; the liver and suet were stuck upon skewers, laid upon the coals, and eaten half-raw. He gave me a taste of it; the children and their parents divided the entrails, which they also laid upon the coals.

The remainder of the mutton made a plentiful supper; they gave me a good portion of couscous of barley-meal, adding a small piece of the belly of the sheep which had been reserved. Though this couscous was detestable, both for its want of seasoning and for the great quantity of fat with which it was made, I ate of it with appetite.

On the 30th of June, the women were early at work grinding wheat for the breakfast of the priests. The means by which they obtain the flour separated from the bran is as follows: they have two round flat granite stones, placed one upon another, and set into one another by means of a piece of wood fixed to the centre of the lower stone; the upper has an opening through which the grain is introduced; it is then turned with a handle. Two women are employed in working this machine, although it is neither heavy nor difficult to move.

When the wheat had been thoroughly sifted several times through a sieve of thin canvas, the two daughters of Sidi-Aly, as dirty as their father, proceeded to knead it into a cake without yeast: one of them made a great fire of tamarisk wood, to heat the ground on the spot chosen for baking the cake: when it was considered sufficiently hot, they swept the place and laid the dough upon the earth; the embers were then replaced upon it and covered with loose sand which had been heated for the purpose: when half-baked it was washed, broken in pieces, and thrown into a calabash, full of fat, the remains of the preceding night’s supper; a kind of sauce was now poured over it and a piece of a sheep recently killed was added. All the family and the priests partook of this stew, and when they had eaten sufficiently they brought me a small portion which remained, with a little sauce upon it; this formed both my breakfast and dinner. On the succeeding days they gave me nothing but dates; I represented to Sidi-Aly that they disagreed with me, owing to the complaint in my teeth, which prevented my chewing them without experiencing severe pain. Aly answered that he was sorry for it, but he had no meat to give me; that in this country dates only were eaten during the day and couscous at night: the remainder of the rice which had been given me at el-Arawan, was put into his tent, and the family ate of it without ever offering me any. At length, having no remedy, it was necessary to conform to this mode of living upon dates alone: but how much did I suffer! I had soon a sore on the roof of my mouth, and fearing lest I should be again reduced to the dreadful state in which I had formerly been, I gave up eating these fruits, and determined to beg a little camel’s milk from our neighbours, whom I found but little affected by my petition. Aly had several daughters whose young lovers were frequently coming to his tent; sangleh was often dressed for their breakfast, but they never once offered me any, though they knew that it gave me such excruciating pain to eat the dates. In three days’ time the family of Aly began to persecute me; they conceived they could not do better than imitate the chief, who, on all occasions, manifested an implacable hatred to me. The women appeared to take pleasure in tormenting me; they would not allow me a tent; the moment I lay down to sleep, they played a hundred tricks to oblige me to rise, they pricked me with a piece of wood, dragged me by the legs, took away my wrapper, and threw water over my face. Tired of these endless annoyances I resolved to take refuge in the tent of a good blacksmith who had performed the pilgrimage to Mecca, which was a great recommendation to him in that country: his aged mother was very pious, and received me kindly; she gave me for refreshment milk and water, which beverage they, as well as the Braknas called cheni. The good old woman thought she was performing a meritorious act, acceptable to God, in saying that her tent was mine, and that I might come thither to sleep whenever I pleased. Though a devout Mahometan, she was full of spirits and fond of a joke, nor did I find her given to falsehood like the other women. Sidi-Aly, seeing that his people would not endure me in any of his tents, had one pitched for me alone, but it was impossible to remain in it, for, as the air entered at one side only, the heat was suffocating.

Early on the 2nd of July, the sister of Sidi-Aly came to seek me, holding in her disgusting hands a lump of sangleh covered with hairs, for she had used the same butter to grease her head and to season this mess: though I was exceedingly hungry I had not courage to taste it. This woman, about sixty years of age, took me aside, and said in a low voice: “Listen, Abdallahi, thou who wert brought up among the christians, who know every thing except the path to salvation, thou shouldst be as wise as they are; and I come to pray thee to make me a charm for one of my nieces who wants a husband; if thou consentest, and the charm proves good I will provide thee with sangleh for two days.” She paused a moment to hear my answer; she then added, that she had induced the Moorish priests to write several for her and had paid them well in _dragmes_, but that they had produced no effect; she hoped that mine would turn out better. The situation in which I now stood did not permit me to reject this proposition: I only insisted upon the clause that she should not put butter into the sangleh. Without loss of time she fetched ink and a straw to use as a pen. She first told me the name of the desired lover, and the names of his parents, and recommended to me particularly to keep the secret: as she had no paper I furnished her with a little bit, and wrote in her presence the charm she wished for. To give it the more importance, I ordered it to be tied round the neck of the young girl, which was immediately done, and finally, to inspire a high idea of my skill in magic, I traced upon a little board another talisman, directing that the writing should be washed, and that her niece should drink of the water which had been used for this purpose. This formality having been punctually fulfilled, the girl came to ask me what time would elapse before the charm would operate. As I knew that I should not be many days in the country, I told her that it would probably not be twenty before she was married. Her aunt Ayesha (this was the old woman’s name) kept her word; she brought me on the morrow, in a very dirty calabash, some sangleh made of barley-meal and without seasoning. The daughters of Aly, having become more civil since I had shewn my talent for bestowing husbands, ceased to molest me; they came and offered me some fresh camel’s milk, and this was the first time that I had drunk any in the dwelling of my host.

Meanwhile the good old aunt who had so strongly recommended secresy to me, gave her friends information of the happy talent which I possessed, and I soon had to write for the neighbouring camps. All the women of the environs made friends with me that, I might give them a charm which would procure husbands for their daughters; they even went so far as to offer me money in payment, which it will be easily imagined I was far from accepting; but I made no scruple of taking milk and sangleh for my support: profiting by this innocent stratagem, I had every day gruel or milk for breakfast. Before chance furnished me with this method of procuring food, I had given my host a little coussabe, entreating him to send me each morning, at least, a small quantity of sangleh: the old hypocrite kept my present, but gave me nothing in return. One day I reproached him for his conduct, and he returned me my coussabe: I changed it for a pair of morocco shoes, for I was barefoot; in the middle of the day, the sun was so scorching, and the gravel and dry herbage cut my feet so much, that I had been obliged to borrow shoes to walk in.

The sons of Sidi-Aly, from twenty-eight to thirty years of age, not wanting my assistance to find wives, did not treat me more kindly than before; they continued to insult me up to the time of my departure; they even carried their insolence so far as to present themselves uncovered before me using the most indecent gestures. Aly, their father, only laughed at this conduct, which he witnessed.

The Arabs of el-Harib are so harassed by the Beraberas, or Berbers, to whom they are tributary, that they are fearful of travelling even in their own country without an escort from among these people; for if these unfortunate Arabs were met by the Berbers, they would be beaten and pillaged: for this reason we could not proceed to Tafilet without an escort. We were therefore obliged to wait for one of the chiefs of this nation, who lived in a village of the Drah or Draha, and had been sent for.

On the 3rd of July, this chief arrived at the encampment Aly gave him a good reception. They agreed upon the price which each load should pay for transport from el-Harib to Tafilet—for this Berber was to furnish beasts of burden; they signed a written agreement in which they mutually bound themselves to fulfil their engagements, and the Berber promised to return in eight days with the camels. Tired of the monotonous life which I was leading in the camp, I resolved for amusement to make a tour among the tribe of Oulad-Gouassim to visit an eminent Mahometan priest, whose sanctity had been highly extolled; his encampment lay about three miles to the east of ours. I approached his tent at the moment when the holy personage was coming out: several old men accompanied him; they had heard me spoken of, and immediately informed him that I was unhappy, and that I had separated from the christians. He answered with an air of indifference and without appearing to take any notice of me: “Well then! he has to thank God for his return into the way of salvation.” I seated myself for a moment upon the ground with him and some of the Moors, who were vicing with each other in obsequiousness to him: he ordered one of them to fetch him a little water, to dissolve some salt which he intended to take as a remedy for an indisposition, pretending that this beverage would give him relief. As the vessel which was brought to him was too full, he was about to pour out some of the water, when one of the Moors in his company, being apparently thirsty, proposed to drink it, but the haughty priest, with a contemptuous air, asked who he was that he should drink out of his satala: the person who aspired to this favour was no doubt worthy of it, for no sooner had he mentioned his name than the priest presented the vase to him. During the short time that I remained in his presence I saw a number of Moors come to consult him on divers maladies; his only remedy for so many complaints was to lay his hand gravely upon the part affected, and, rubbing it gently, to pronounce a prayer. This important person was also the public writer and the instructor of the children.

The only wealth of this man consisted in his knowledge of the Koran; but in Africa this knowledge is worth an estate. From all parts they brought him cotton cloth for his dress, stuff for his tent, beasts to carry him on his journeys, and barley for the food of himself and his people: he received all this in exchange for the charms which he wrote. In his camp he was abundantly furnished with whatever could contribute to his support and that of his friends; in return, he gave talismans for the cure or prevention of all diseases, against thefts, or to obtain husbands for the young females.

As it was late and I did not intend returning to Aly’s camp, and as the priest had not given me an invitation to sleep in his tent, I sought elsewhere a lodging for the night; I addressed myself as is usual to the first man I met, and requested permission to sleep near his tent: this man received me kindly, installed me in the place which he usually occupied, and left me; he then sent me a supply of dates to serve till supper time. I did not touch them, being afraid of them. During the night I was visited by a Moor, who was a cripple, and obliged to be carried by another. I was lying upon the ground; on rising I was astonished to see this little man beside me; he gave me the idea of a mysterious dwarf; I knew not what to think of his nocturnal visit, and conceived that by the assistance of his companion he intended to steal something. Finding that their presence was not at all to my satisfaction, they desired me not to be afraid, but I assured them loud enough to be heard by the neighbours, that if they did not leave me, I should complain to my host. The deformed dwarf threw himself into the arms of his conductor and they disappeared like lightning. About ten o’clock at night, my supper was brought me: it was good couscous with meat, such as I had never eaten in Aly’s family. The chief of the tent brought me water to wash my hands, inquired if I had had a good supper, and took his seat beside me: he put several questions relative to the customs of christian countries, and then withdrew.

On the 4th of July, after taking leave of my generous host, I returned to Aly’s camp. On the road I met two women, whose conversation amused me a little. They begged me to write charms, one to make her husband who intended to quit her change his mind; another to procure a husband for a young woman who wished to marry: they offered me money in exchange, but warned me, laughing, that they should pay nothing till my charms had taken effect. This conversation made the walk pleasant, and beguiled the length of the way.

We arrived at the camp: the blacksmith, to whose tent I often went to sleep, was preparing to transport two cargoes of ivory to Tatta; I perceived that he paid dues to the Berbers to travel through the country in safety. On making inquiries concerning the place to which they were going, I learnt that Tatta is a large town situated five days’ journey to the N. W. of our camp: the route leads through the town of Brahihima, which is two days’ journey from the camp. The goods taken to Tatta are dispatched thence by the merchants of Soueyrah (Cape Mogador.)

On the 6th of July, the wife of Sidi-Aly, who till then, like the rest of the family had given me tokens of ill-will accosted me in a very affable tone, and requested a saphi for bad eyes; promising me that if I effected a cure, she would give me every thing I wished. To get quit of her I gave her one immediately, and she received it with gratitude. I refused her money, but accepted with pleasure a little milk which she offered me. After some days, the impatient Mariam (that was her name) seeing that my amulet did not operate, reproached me bitterly, saying that my skill was no greater than that of the priests. Knowing from her husband that I had some medicaments, she asked me for physic, which embarrassed me greatly, as I was fearful of increasing her complaint; it was necessary however to satisfy her, under penalty of being considered disobliging. Convinced that cleanliness was the best remedy I could prescribe, to force her to it, I diluted with a considerable quantity of water a small portion of sulphat of quinine, and desired her to wash her eyes with it; she insisted that I should perform this operation myself, unfortunately the water, penetrating to her eyes, made them smart a little: upon which she flew into a rage, loaded me with abuse, and in conclusion, cursed both the doctor and his medicines. From that time she gave me no more sangleh.

This incident did not destroy their confidence in my saphies, to the credit of which moreover old Aly had contributed by a falsehood; having asserted that when I left Timbuctoo my abdomen was much swelled, and that I wrote in a book, washed my writing in water, and drank this liquor, which cured me.

An old woman long tormented me to procure a husband for her daughter; she dragged me, at length, against my will into her tent, which belonged to a neighbouring camp, promising me a draught of _cheni_ in recompense. Here I saw the object of her maternal solicitude; a girl about twenty years of age, repulsively ugly, clothed in rags, the filthiness of which could only be equalled by that of her person. Her left cheek was covered by a scar, and she had sore eyes. Her whole figure presented the most revolting appearance imaginable; and I perceived at a glance the cause of her mother’s anxiety to get her married by means of a charm. I felt that it was quite beyond my art to accomplish such a prodigy. To induce me however to exert all my skill, the old woman offered me a piece of dried meat, which she took out of a large leathern sack, where, from its state of putrefaction, it might have been deposited on the day that her amiable daughter was born. Notwithstanding the repugnance which I manifested, the mother insisted upon my acceptance of the delectable morsel, which she assured me was excellent; but such was my disgust that I even refused the _cheni_ which she offered. I was anxious to withdraw, but could not effect my escape till I had written the amulet required; this done, I fled with all expedition, invoking for the maiden a man courageous enough to take her to wife.

I have never, in any country, seen women so dirty as those of el-Harib. This total want of cleanliness is no doubt the cause of the chronic ophthalmia, and other disorders, with which they and their equally filthy offspring are afflicted. My medical reputation drew upon me most unpleasant avocations: the mothers brought to me in crowds children in so disgusting a state that I could not look at them without horror; in vain did I avert my eyes, they only became more importunate, compelling me to examine the miserable beings for whom they solicited my aid. I could do no better for them than recommend cleanliness; but this simple remedy they despised, and would not be content with any thing short of the marvellous.

On the evening of the 6th, a troop of Berbers arrived in our camp demanding hospitality. Aly ordered for their supper a couscous of wheat flour, to which were added some pieces of meat dried in the sun. The food for me and the slaves was separately dressed; but Aly’s sister, who, since I had given her amulets for her nieces, had become much more attentive to me, gave me some of their meat concealed under the bad couscous of barley intended for me.

On the 8th of July, another troop of Berbers carried off several camels which were grazing at a distance. The whole camp took the alarm, and arming themselves with guns the men set off in haste, some on foot and others on horseback; but the thieves were already distant, and their pursuers returned without having overtaken them. The evening was spent in lamentations on the part of the owners of the camels, their relations, and friends. They had recourse to fortune-tellers to know if they should recover them, and came to consult me on the subject, requesting a charm to bring them back; this I refused, under pretence that my writings did not possess that virtue.

On the 11th of July, the Berbers who were to escort us to Tafilet arrived, and great was my joy to think that on the morrow I should quit a place where I had experienced so many mortifications. Aly had a sheep killed for the Berbers’ supper and gave me a little bit, with an apology on account of the many persons who were to partake of it.

On the 12th, at five o’clock in the morning, our preparations were made for departure; but before quitting this country I shall give a description of it.

The territory of el-Harib, two days’ journey west of that of el-Drah, and one to the east of the tribe of the Trajacants, is situated between two chains of mountains, which extend from east to west, and separate it towards the north from the empire of Morocco, to which it is tributary. The inhabitants are divided into several roving tribes. Their principal wealth consists in the great quantity of camels which they breed, and which in the wet season produce abundance of milk for their sustenance. All the Moors of el-Harib travel in the Soudan; they go to Timbuctoo, el-Arawan, and Sansanding; the merchants of Tafilet, el-Drah, and Soueyrah, give them loads for their camels; on their own account they carry only wheat and dates, and these in small ventures. When in the Soudan they remain there several months, for the purpose of traffic; making little journeys to Toudeyni, where they purchase mineral salt, which they sell again to the principal merchants in the two chief entrepôts, receiving in exchange grain, the stuffs of the Soudan, and gold. Having spent nine or ten months in this traffic, they take a load for Tafilet or some other city, and afterwards return into their own country and to their family, bringing with them gold only and some slaves, whom they sell in Morocco.

On returning to their own country, they are obliged to pay a small tribute to a chief called the sheikh. The goods brought by the Moors from the Soudan to el-Harib are transported to Tafilet or other places by the Berbers alone, or under escorts which they furnish at a price agreed upon; without which precaution the merchants would certainly be robbed or murdered on the road.

The Moors of this miserable country are incessantly harassed by the Berbers, from whose habits of rapine they have every thing to fear, although they pay them a heavy tribute; and not one of them, whatever rank he may hold at home, dares travel without being thus accompanied. These roving people, not being themselves cultivators of the soil, are obliged frequently to go to el-Drah to purchase barley and dates for food, and not daring to attempt this without the convoy of the Berbers, they pay them an additional tribute by way of remuneration. These latter, well armed, are continually prowling about in the country of el-Harib, to obtain food from the Moors and even to carry off their cattle.

The inhabitants of this district are so poor that they can purchase only the cheapest provisions, principally such dates as, having fallen from the trees before they have become perfectly ripe, are carefully picked up by the owners, exposed to the sun to dry, and then put into leathern bags, where they become so extremely hard that very good teeth are requisite to eat them without pain. Upon these dates, which they pound in a wooden mortar, and a little cheni, the Moors of el-Harib subsist during the day; eating sangleh before evening only in very particular cases.

About eight or nine at night, they usually sup upon a couscous of barley generally steeped in warm water, in which they have boiled a handful of herbs gathered in the environ of their camp. They also breed some sheep, but when they kill one, which is very rarely done, they dry the meat and preserve it in leathern sacks, sometimes for six months. They have recourse to this reserve when they treat strangers, particularly the Berbers, to whom they are very attentive. As a mark of consideration, they spread before the tent for their repose a carpet as good as those which we use in Europe. The master, in honour of his guests, frequently eats with them from the same bowl, and, instead of offering them pure water, he adds to it camel’s milk, which in the rainy season is very abundant. On the arrival of the strangers, the dates and cheni are immediately set before them as a refreshment till the supper hour. Though the Moors of el-Harib receive the Berbers thus hospitably, yet in travelling through their country they are never treated even with a supper; in their journeys therefore, they are careful to carry their provision of dates and a little barley-meal, which they boil in water. The costume of the Berbers differs from that of the Moors only in a band of coloured stuff, which the former wrap round their heads in the form of a turban; they also wear ear-rings. They are all armed and mounted on fine horses, handsomely caparisoned, and they wear spurs, which are attached to a leather strap firmly fastened round the instep.

The Moors of el-Harib dress like those on the banks of the Senegal, except that over their coussabe they wear a linen wrapper manufactured in the country of el-Drah or Tafilet. They have only one wife, but like the Braknas change her frequently. They are all Musulmans, yet they do not addict themselves, like the marabouts, to the study of the Koran, being satisfied with knowing the first verse of it without learning to write; a marabout is, consequently, held in great consideration among them.

The Moors of el-Harib are generally detested by their neighbours; in el-Drah and Tafilet they are seldom called any thing but cafirs or infidels. In my life I never saw women so evil disposed and so dirty as those of this country: they do not veil themselves, like the women of Morocco, but expose a face disgustingly filthy; the smell that proceeds from them is most offensive. The inhabitants eat the camels which have died from fatigue, but not till they have drained off the blood; they keep some sheep and a few horses. El-Harib contains eleven tribes, the names of which, as I received them from an old inhabitant of the camp to which I belonged, are as follows: Oulad-Rossik, Oulad-Wébal, Oulad-Gouessim, Oulad-Foulh, Oulad-Ouraff, Oulad-Rouzinn, Oulad-Rahan, Oulad-Nasso, Oulad-Body, Oulad-Bonlaboi, Oulad-Sidi-Ayesha. One day’s journey west from our camp are situated the first tents of the Trajacants; at the distance of four in the same direction are the tribes of Oulad-Noun, who dwell near the village of Adrar, which must not be confounded with the country of el-Drah, a small district extending from east to West, and from north to south, between Morocco and el-Harib; five days’ journey west from the encampment of Sidi-Aly is the village of Sous; at fourteen days in the same direction that of Soueyrah; and at ten or eleven days from el-Harib, to the N. N. W. is Morocco, the capital of the empire of that name, which these rovers sometimes visit.

While the men of el-Harib are travelling in the Soudan, the women employ themselves in making ropes of grass, to fasten the baggage and to draw water from the wells in the deserts; they spin camel’s hair with which they make tent-covers; they prepare and tan leather, and make sandals for their husbands, and the remainder of their time is devoted to their domestic concerns. As in all other Mahometan countries, they eat apart from the men.

Sidi-Aly had frequently teased me to part with my two pieces of blue cotton cloth from the Soudan, that I might have, he said, the means of purchasing provisions for my journey to Tafilet, those which had been given me at Timbuctoo and el-Arawan, having been wholly consumed by himself and his family. Wishing to retain my cloths, which might probably prove serviceable to me in future, I resisted his importunities, and thus cheating his cupidity ran the risk of exposing myself to his resentment. My resolution, however, produced no ill consequences.