Chapter XII: Montevideo 151

Population--Attributes of the city--Situation of the
Uruguayan capital--The Cerro--A comparison between the
capitals of Argentina and Uruguay--The atmosphere of
Montevideo--A city of restful activity--Comparatively
recent foundation--Its origin an afterthought--Montevideo
in 1727--Homely erections--Progress of the town--Advance
effected within the last thirty years--The Uruguayan
capital at the beginning of the nineteenth century--Some
chronicles of the period--The ubiquity of meat--Dogs
and their food--Some curious accounts of the prevalence
of rats--The streets of old Montevideo--Their perils
and humours--A comparison between the butchers' bills
of the past and of the present--Some unusual uses for
sheep--Methods in which the skulls and horns of cattle
were employed--Modern Montevideo--The National Museum--An
admirable institution--Theatres--Critical Montevidean
audiences--Afternoon tea establishments--The Club
Uruguay--The English Club--British community in the
capital--Its enterprise and philanthropy--The _Montevideo
Times_--A feat in editorship--Hotels--Cabs and public
vehicles--The cost of driving.