Chapter I: Preface

The History of Venice is the history of a State unparalleled in Europe for permanence and stability. For centuries Venice occupied that position of maritime supremacy now held by Great Britain, and time was when an English king was fain to crave the loan of a few warships to vindicate his rights in France. The autonomy of the Venetian Republic so imposed on men’s minds that it was regarded as in the very nature of things, and even so acute an observer as Voltaire wrote in the _Dictionnaire Philosophique_, less than three decades before her fall: “Venice has preserved her independence during eleven centuries, and I flatter myself will preserve it for ever.”

In the course of our story we have freely drawn from the old chronicles, while not neglecting modern historians, chiefest of whom is the Triestine Hebrew scholar, Samuele Romanin. Indeed, all that has been written on Venetian history during the past forty years does but increase our admiration for the imperturbable industry and sagacious judgment of the author of the _Storia Documentata di Venezia_, to whom our heaviest debt is due.

The history, criticism and appreciation of Venetian architecture and Venetian painting are indissolubly associated with the genius of Ruskin, and notwithstanding some waywardness of judgment and spoilt-child philosophy, his writings are, and ever will be, the classic works on the subject. Among more recent authorities we are indebted to the publications of Berenson, Bode, Burckhardt, Ludwig, Morelli, and Saccardo.

For purposes of description we have divided the city and outlying islands of the Venetian lagoon into twenty sections, arranged rather with regard to their relative historical and artistic importance than to strict topographical considerations, although these have not been lost sight of. In our quality of _cicerone_ we have drawn from an acquaintance of the city at various times extending over a period of twenty years: more detailed and practical information may be sought in the admirable guide-books of Baedeker, Grant Allen, Gsellfels and Murray.

A pleasant duty is that of expressing our gratitude for personal help and counsel to, among others, Mr Horatio F. Brown, Signor Cantalamessa the courteous Director of the Accademia, Mr Bolton King, Signor Alfredo Melani, and Mr René Spiers.

In order not to burden our pages with many notes we have limited references to such passages as seemed specially to call for them, exigencies of space having straitened a wide subject within close bounds. If, however, the perusal of this slight and imperfect sketch may lead intending travellers to turn to richer springs--and in that hope we have appended a list of the main sources[1] from which we have drawn--our pleasant labours will be amply rewarded. It is with travel as with other modes of observation. The eye will see what the mind takes with it, for as the Spanish proverb quoted by Dr Johnson runs: “He who would bring home the wealth of the Indies must carry the wealth of the Indies with him.”

CONTENTS

PART I.--THE STORY

CHAPTER I

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THE FOUNDATION AT RIALTO.....1

CHAPTER II

ST MARK THE PATRON OF VENICE--THE BRIDES OF ST MARK--CONQUEST OF DALMATIA--LIMITATION OF THE DOGE’S POWER.....17

CHAPTER III

EXPANSION IN THE EAST--RECONCILIATION OF POPE ALEXANDER III. AND THE EMPEROR BARBAROSSA--THE WEDDING OF THE ADRIATIC.....35

CHAPTER IV

ENRICO DANDOLO AND THE CAPTURE OF CONSTANTINOPLE.....56

CHAPTER V

THE ARISTOCRACY--WAR WITH THE GENOESE--LOSS OF CONSTANTINOPLE.....72

CHAPTER VI

THE DUEL WITH GENOA--THE CLOSING OF THE GREAT COUNCIL.....85

CHAPTER VII

THE OLIGARCHY--COMMERCIAL SUPREMACY--THE BAJAMONTE CONSPIRACY--THE COUNCIL OF THE TEN--THE PRISONS.....103

CHAPTER VIII

CONQUESTS ON THE MAINLAND--EXECUTION OF MARIN FALIERO--THE FALL OF GENOA.....118

CHAPTER IX

AGGRESSION ON THE MAINLAND--ARREST AND EXECUTION OF CARMAGNOLA--THE TWO FOSCARI.....135

CHAPTER X

THE TURKISH TERROR--ACQUISITION OF CYPRUS--DISCOVERY OF THE CAPE ROUTE TO INDIA--THE FRENCH INVASIONS--THE LEAGUE OF CAMBRAI--DECLINE OF VENICE.....152

CHAPTER XI

LOSS OF CYPRUS--LEPANTO--PAOLO SARPI--ATTACK ON THE TEN--LOSS OF CRETE--TEMPORARY RECONQUEST OF THE MOREA--DECADENCE--THE END.....170

CHAPTER XII

_The Fine Arts at Venice_

MASONS--PAINTERS--GLASS-WORKERS--PRINTERS.....187

PART II.--THE CITY

SECTION I

ARRIVAL--THE PIAZZA.....215

SECTION II

THE BASILICA OF ST MARK.....222

SECTION III

THE DUCAL PALACE.....241

SECTION IV

THE ACCADEMIA.....252

SECTION V

THE GRAND CANAL AND S. GIORGIO MAGGIORE.....263

SECTION VI

S. ZULIAN--S. MARIA FORMOSA--S. ZANIPOLO (SS. GIOVANNI E PAOLO)--THE COLLEONI STATUE--THE SCUOLA DI S. MARCO--S. MARIA DEI MIRACOLI.....275

SECTION VII

THE FRARI--THE SCUOLA AND CHURCH OF S. ROCCO.....281

SECTION VIII

S. ZACCARIA--S. GIORGIO DEGLI SCHIAVONI--S. FRANCESCO DELLA VIGNA.....286

SECTION IX

THE RIVA DEGLI SCHIAVONI--S. MARIA DELLA PIETÀ--PETRARCH’S HOUSE--S. GIOVANNI IN BRAGORO--S. MARTINO--THE ARSENAL--THE PUBLIC GARDENS--S. PIETRO IN CASTELLO.....289

SECTION X

S. SALVATORE--CORTE DEL MILIONE--S. GIOVANNI GRISOSTOMO.....292

SECTION XI

S. MOISÈ--S. STEFANO--SITE OF THE ALDINE PRESS--IL BOVOLO--S. VITALE--S. VIO--THE SALUTE--THE SEMINARIO.....295

SECTION XII

SS. APOSTOLI-PALAZZO FALIER--I GESUITI--I CROCIFERI--S. CATERINA--S. MARIA DELL’ORTO--S. MARZIALE--PALAZZO GIOVANELLI.....298

SECTION XIII

THE RIALTO--S. GIACOMO DEL RIALTO--S. GIOVANNI ELEMOSINARIO--S. CASSIANO--S. MARIA MATER DOMINI--MUSEO CIVICO.....301

SECTION XIV

S. SEBASTIANO--S. MARIA DEL CARMINE--S. PANTALEONE--THE COBBLERS’ GUILDHALL--S. POLO--S. APOLLINARE.....305

SECTION XV

GIUDECCA--THE REDENTORE--S. TROVASO.....309

SECTION XVI

PALAZZO LABIA--S. GIOBBE--THE GHETTI--GLI SCALZI.....310

SECTION XVII

TITIAN’S HOUSE--S. MICHELE IN ISOLA--MURANO.....314

SECTION XVIII

TORCELLO--S. FRANCESCO DEL DESERTO.....318

SECTION XIX

S. NICOLO DEL LIDO.....320

SECTION XX

CHIOGGIA.....322

APPENDIX I

LIST OF DOGES.....325