Chapter VIII: Part 8

“Sancho” regarded the transaction with undisguised scorn. “By Bacchus, but all _forestieri_ are fools!” he said. “Why didn’t you tell me to get it for you? I could get all you wanted for four cents!”

Yet notwithstanding his philosophizing “Sancho” generously let me off with only the usual gratuities.

A day or so later--with so much yet undone--grieving that we must leave the island which had taken so mighty a grip on our hearts, we rolled down, for the last time, through the Place of the Four Winds, and went aboard the beautiful little _Marco Polo_.

Half a dozen Nations decorated the Bay with their colors from a score of mastheads. Here lay a filthy little Greek tramp whose faded blue and white stripes fluttered limply from her steam-spitting stern; there a smutty white trading barque with gaping red seams and burnished copper, hairy a foot below the water line with grass and moss; yonder trim white steamers of the N. G. I. Disconsolate we sat on the promenade deck watching the lively scene along the Scala Florio. A tiny breeze was stirring, and the slip of new moon came staggering up the blue vault with the rotund body of her deceased mother in her thin little wide-stretched arms, followed at a respectful distance by a winking, blinking satellite. Pellegrino and distant Grifone showed soft and dim in blue and pink and gray, like the too closely cropped hide of a young donkey.

On the wharf were tears and laughter. An eager crowd drove up in ever increasing numbers and thronged the space about the gangplank to give their friends a hearty send-off. Farther out a young girl sang atrociously to a wheezy handorgan, while a small boy, cap in his teeth, clambered over the _Marco Polo’s_ rail and begged for pennies. A gold-laced official, with an important beard and furious mustachios, marched aboard with as dignified a stride as his five-feet-two permitted, and instantly the quiet ship became alive. Boatswains bellowed gruff orders, a steam-donkey somewhere forward chattered right merrily, and down in the hold the _ingegniero_ “turned over” his engines to make sure everything was working properly. A serpentine hawser slipped from its bitt on the wharf and splashed writhing into the water at our feet--we were sailing.

But no--at this very last instant a shout from the empty Place of the Four Winds a block away, stopped us. The heartiest send-off of all was yet to come. Roaring and spitting fire and smoke, a huge automobile in gray warpaint tore through the square, skidded to the edge, stopped as though it had rushed into a stone wall, and fairly shot a young man out upon the gangplank just as it quivered on the rise, while women shrieked and men laughed.

His two companions were on the dock in a second, seized his shiny little black box-trunk, swung it to and fro once or twice, and hurled it after him with such precision that it caught the unlucky passenger in the small of his back and bowled him over squarely. As he was rising to his feet, white with astonishment and rage, his heavy handbag, thrown with the same forceful kindliness, knocked him down a second time, and ship and dock chorused happily together. Meantime the automobile panted contentedly as the fasts were cast off bow and stern, the screw began to revolve, and the white _Marco Polo_ slipped out into the gathering night.

Silently we fled the harbor, dotted now with myriad dancing lights; curtseyed gracefully out past Santa Rosalia’s statue, nine hundred feet aloft on the crag; dashed by small clusters of lights in a shadowy pocket of the outer hills, and were at sea again. Once more the long, slow roll of Mediterranean was under our feet, its grateful salt breath in our nostrils.

A boy with the dinner-gong came yam-yam-yamming down the decks. We did not heed him. The whirling screw was throbbing a different refrain in our ears--

“Thou art the garden of the world, the home
Of all Art yields or Nature can decree;
E’en in thy desert what is like to thee?
Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste
More rich than other climes’ fertility,
Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced
With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced.”

THE END

THE BEST BOOKS ON SICILY

Freeman, Edward A.--History of Sicily, 3 vols. A tremendous unfinished work covering Sicily from prehistoric days to the reign of Agathocles. Very heavy and redundant, but precise and accurate. Story of the Nations: Sicily. By the same author, but a complete, very compact history in one moderate volume.

Paton, W. A.--Picturesque Sicily. Very good.

Sladen, Douglas.--Sicily. A huge two-volume narration of the author’s personal experiences. Humorous, informative, slangy, and hastily done but superbly illustrated. An English publication; costs about $20.

Tweedie, Mrs. Alec.--Sunny Sicily. A good but limited book.

There are also several books covering parts of Sicily, or some of its customs; these are generally to be had in the larger public libraries.

INDEX

Achradina (Syracuse), 116, 135, 147, 148.

Acolyte, irreverent, 194.

Acqueducts, 139-140, 154.

Ætna, Introd., i; 14, 85, 107, 108, 109, 111, 153, 155, 159, 160, 161, 163, 164, 188, 189, 205, 212.

Aetnean Railroad, 162-163.

Agatha (Ágata) St., 156.

Agathocles, King (Tyrant), 135, 237, 238.

Agora (Marketplace), 134.

Agrigentum (See Girgenti).

Akragas, Introd., viii; 19, 90, 91, 92.

Alfonso (Caratozzo), 95, 96, 102, 104, 106.

Amber, Catanian, 158.

Amphitheatres, Roman, 140, 154.

Anapo, 115, 128.

Angevin (Anjou), Introd., x; 74, 75, 76, 84, 209.

Antisthenes, 91.

Aragon (Aragonese), Introd., x; 71, 155-156.

Archimedes, Introd., vii; 135, 136, 138, 145, 146.

Arethusa, 120, 121-122, 151.

Arms of Taormina, 193.

Artemis (Diana), 120, 121, 122.

Asdrubal, Gen., 82, 83.

Atenasio, banker, Signor Pancrazio, 180-182.

Athens, 116, 124-127, 149, 150, 151, 236.

Augusta, 112, 113.

Bagheria, 81, 225-232.

“Beautiful Shore” (See Kalé Akté).

Beggars, 54, 55, 183, 216.

Bellini, Composer, 154.

Bell-baiting, 186-187.

Berlinas, 88.

Bits (horses’), 26.

Bourbon, Introd., xi; 62, 64, 163.

Bull, brazen, 96-97.

Byron, Lord (quoted), 264.

Byzantine, Empire, Introd., ix;
Style, 62, 201.

Cafés, 35, 36, 55, 58, 92, 110, 139.

Cala, La, 18.

Carabinieri, 106.

Carthage, Introd., iv, vii, viii; 82, 92, 223, 236, 241.

Carthaginians, Introd., vii, viii; 129, 208, 223, 234-235, 240.

Carts, painted, 25, 26.

Castrogiovanni (Enna), 108.

Catacombs, 147-148.

Cathedrals--
Catania, 155-156.
Cefalù, 219-221.
Girgenti, 105.
Marsala, 242.
Messina, 212.
Mola, 185.
Monreale, 48-52, 220.
Palermo, 42-44, 258.
Syracuse, 118-119.
Taormina, 194-196.
Trapani, 244.

Cefalù, 216-221.
Beach, 221.
Cathedral, 219-221.
Types at, 221.

Cemeteries, 47, 74, 76.

Cephaloedium (See Cefalù).

Charondas, 152-153.

Chiaramonte, Pallazzo, 71-72.

Christ of the Onions, The, 32.

Churches--
Bagheria, 231-232.
Catania, 158-159.
Girgenti, 95, 100, 105.
Messina, 211, 212.
Palermo, 256.
Syracuse, 146, 147, 148.
Trapani, 244.

Cicero, 6, 119, 145.

Class distinction, 49.

Cleanliness, 21, 243.

Climate, 6.

Coins in Sicily, Greek, 120.

Conca d’Oro (Golden Shell), 4, 55, 62, 74, 75, 78, 80, 233, 252, 254, 256.

Consuls, 58-59.

Corso (promenade), 23, 24, 86.

Corso (street), 21, 22, 177, 178, 184, 197, 203.

Crusades, The, 208.

Cuba, La, 47-48.

Cyane (Kyana), 123, 130-132.

Danklon (Zankle), 208.

Demagogues, 115.

Deserted Village, 184.

Dialect, Sicilian, 175.

Dikaiopolis (See Segesta).

Diodorus, Introd., ii, vii; 96, 109, 110.

Dionysius, 114, 129, 136, 162, 174, 201, 202, 216.

Donkeys, Sardinian, 26, 252, 253.

Drepana (See Trapani).

Dulcie, Dulcinea, 13.

Earthquake, Messina, 209.

Eggs, 33.

Elephants, 82-83.

Eleutherian Feasts, The, 141-142.

Emigration, 182, 184.

Empedocle, Porto, 93.

Empedocles of Akragas, Introd., vii; 92-93.

Enna (See Castrogiovanni).

Entrails, 24, 25, 33.

Epipolai (Syracuse), 116, 135, 136, 137, 140.

Eryx (See Mte San Giuliano).

Euryelus, Fort, 136, 138, 139.

Favorita, Château of La, 11, 62-64.

Felice (Lady F. Orsini; and Porta F.), 86.

Ferdinand IV, King, 62-64.

Festa (Festivals).
Sta. Ágata, 156-157.
San Giuseppe, 229-230.
della Madonna dei Capri, 250-251.
Sta Rosalia, 258.

Fiera di Pascua (Easter Fair), 28, 29.

Floral displays, 15, 19, 69, 88, 99, 148, 149, 169,
171, 193, 205, 221, 222, 245.

Food, 8, 24, 25, 33, 36, 53-54, 58, 94, 180, 230.

Forestieri, 24, 31, 96, 261.

Fountains, 192-193.

Four Winds, Place of, 262, 263.

Frederick II, Emperor, Introd., ix, x; 43, 80-81, 113.

Funeral, A Taormina, 197-198.

Gambling Games, 231.

Garibaldi, Giuseppe, Introd., xi; 83, 168, 187, 215, 235-236, 241, 244.

Garibaldi, Theatre Politeama, 27.

Gellias, 91.

Gelon, Tyrant, 115, 129, 135, 222.

Gesù, Sta Maria di, 76-79.

Giotto, 52, 77.

Girgenti, 90.

Giulia Guevaha, Donna (Villa G), 84, 85.

Giuliano, Mte San (Eryx), 15, 245, 246, 247, 248.

Giuseppe, San, Church of, 231-232.

Goats, 171, 190, 191, 197, 207, 250-251, 256, 261.

Goethe, Wolfgang, 75, 259, 260.

Golden Shell (See Conca d’Oro).

Grazing on Pellegrino, 255.

Greece, Introd., ii, viii, xii; 116, 123, 174.

Gregorio, 2, 10.

Greek religion, 99-100.

Greek temples, Introd., vi, xii; 27, 99-103, 140, 219, 237.

Greeks, The, Introd., iv, v, vi, vii, xii; 19, 104, 109,
133, 139, 140, 149-150, 173, 204, 205, 209, 235, 236, 246.

Greeks, famous, in Sicily, Introd., v, vi, vii; 97, 113, 141, 150.

Gualterio, 10, 11, 29, 30, 41, 79, 80, 84, 227-228.

Hadranos (Hadranum), 162.

Hamilcar, 70, 98, 222-223.

Hammerstein, Oscar, 200.

Hannibal, Gisgon, 70-71, 223, 239.

Heircte, Herkte (See Pellegrino).

Hichens, Robert, 77.

Hieron, King, 130, 135, 137, 141, 143, 144.

Hieron, Tyrant, 153, 174.

Himera, Introd., viii; 79, 91, 98, 129, 222-223.

Historians, Introd., ii, vii; 43, 71, 92, 98, 124, 126, 127, 144, 149, 150.

Homer (Odyssey), Introd., iii; 158, 164.

Hotels, 170.

Ignorance (Illiteracy), 64-65, 178.

Kalé Akté (Calacte), 216.

Kataneion, Katane (See Chapters on Catania).

Kephalé (See Cefalù).

Kipling, Rudyard, 63.

Krimisos (Cold Stream), 234-235;
battle of, 235.

Land ownership, 181-182.

Latomie (Quarries), 14, 115, 142, 148, 149, 151, 242.

Lebrosi, S. Giovanni dei, 81-82.

Legends, 121-122, 123, 164, 165, 166.

Lentini, Lake, 110.

Lucy, St., 156.

Macaroni, 34, 53-54, 90.

Maffiusi (Mafia), 175.

Marcellus, 136-138.

Mare Dolce, The, 80.

Marionettes, 37-40.

Markets, 30-36, 134.

Marriage, 57.

Marsala, 241-243.

Martorana, Church of, 44-45.

Mássimo, Theatre, 27, 28.

Mediterranean, Introd., i, iii, iv, xi; 5, 6, 7, 101, 219, 264.

Messana (See Messina).

Messina (and Strait of), Introd., iii; 44, 207-214.

Metellus, Consul, 83.

Metopes, 70-71, 239.

Milk, 190-191, 207.

Minstrels, 177, 199-200.

Misericordia, The, 197.

Mola, 173, 182-186, 190.

Monks, 76, 77.

Monreale, 48-55, 72, 220.

Mosaics, glass, 49-51, 60-62.

Mummies, Subway of, 47.

Museums--
Girgenti, 103.
Palermo, 67-70.
Syracuse, 119-120.

Mylæ, 215.

Naxos, 173, 174.

Neapolis (Syracuse), 116, 135.

Newspapers, 223-224.

Nicias (Greek General), 113.

Night, Noises of the, 186-187.

Normans, The (also N. Architecture), Introd., ii, ix;
43, 44, 89, 118, 173, 208, 219, 247.

Ortygia, Island of (Syracuse), 115, 116, 117, 122, 133, 135, 138.

Ovid, 109.

Palace (See Palazzo).

Palæstra, 134.

Palagonia, Prince (also Villa), 228-229.

Palatina, La Cappella, 60-62, 220.

Palazzata, La, 210-211.

Palazzo, 56, 59, 62-64, 71-72, 210.

Panormos (Palermo), 18, 224.

Papyrus, 130, 131, 132.

Parks, 19, 20.

Pellegrino, Mte., 17, 78, 86, 217, 251, 252-261, 262.

Pergusa, Lake of, 109.

Phalaris, 96, 97.

Philistis, Queen, 143-144.

Phoenicians (Phoenicia), Introd., iv; 18, 19, 123, 218, 224, 235, 238, 246.

Pigs, 184, 185.

Pindar, Poet, 97, 98, 143, 144.

Posers, professional, 176.

Primitive Inhabitants (Sikans, Sikels, Elymians, Phœnicians),
Introd., iii, iv; 69, 119, 217, 218, 234, 235, 236, 237,
245, 246, 247.

Prisoners, Athenian, 149-150, 151.

Problem, The Sicilian, 181-182.

Proserpina (Persephone), 14, 109, 131.

Punic Wars, Introd., viii.

Quattro Venti (See Four Winds, Place of).

Quijote, Don, and Sancho, 254, 261.

Railroad about Ætna (see Aetnean R.R.).

Railroads (also Service), 167-168.

Randazzo, 163-164.

Relics, 258.

Relief Work at Messina, 213-214.

Roger, King, 43-45, 60, 72, 83, 155, 212, 218, 219.

Rome (Roman), Introd., viii, ix, xii; 27, 82, 83, 109,
116, 133, 138, 143, 204-205, 241, 246.

Rometta, 215.

Rosalia, Saint, 42, 156, 251, 256-261.
Chapel of, 259-261.
Festival of, 258.
Statue of, 261, 264.

Rosinante, 254, 255.

Sacred Band (see Krimisos).

Saints, female, 156.

Salamis, Introd., viii.

Salinas, Professor A., 69.

Salt Works, 113, 123, 243.

“Sancho,” 254-261.

Santo Spirito, Campo, 74, 75.

Santuario, Via al, 253, 256.

Saracens (Moors), Introd., ii, ix, vii; 12, 19, 41, 44,
47, 62, 72, 78, 80, 81, 96, 111, 118, 176, 205, 247, 256.

Scenery (also Railroad and Coast), 89, 90, 99, 111, 112,
114, 135, 148, 149, 155, 161, 169, 170, 205-216, 207,
215, 216, 217, 218, 221, 222, 233, 234, 245, 246.

Schools, 65, 178, 179-180.

Scláfani Palace, 45.

Scylla and Charybdis, 169, 208.

Segesta (Egesta), 236-238.

Selinus, 70-71, 236, 238-240.

Solous (Soluntum), Solunto, 224-225, 227-228.

Spanish (Spaniard), Introd., x; 21, 63, 121.

Stefano, Dukes of (also Palace), 202, 203.

Stesichorus (Tisias), Introd., viii; 154.

Sulphur (Mines; Mining), 90, 93, 107, 152.

Sunrise over Ætna, 188-189.

Syracuse, Introd., viii; 19.
Battle of the bay, 124-127.
Sieges of, 124, 136, 138, 149-150.

Taormina peasants, 175.

Termini Imerese, 223-224.

Tessere, 4, 5, 6, 87.

Theatres, 27, 36-41, 143-145, 154, 203, 204-206, 237.

Theocritus, Introd., vii; 12, 135, 176.

Theron, Tyrant, 98, 115, 222.

Thucydides, Introd., i; 125-6, 149-150, 209.

Timoleon, 135, 144-145, 168, 234, 235, 236.

Tips (Tipping), 8, 9.

Tisias (see Stesichorus).

Trapani, 243-245.

Trionfo della Morte (fresco), 45-46.

Trireme, The, 92.

Trojans at Trapani, 245.

Troubadours (see Minstrels).

Tyche (Syracuse), 116, 135.

Tyndaris, 215-216.

Tyrant (defined), 98-99.

Tyrants, 115.
Age of the, 114, 141.

Usury (Usurers), 181-182.

Venus Anadyomene, 120.

Venus, Temple of, 245, 246.

Verres, C. Gaius, 119, 128.

Vespers, Sicilian, Introd., x; 25, 68, 74-75, 84, 186, 209.

Villa, 66-67.

Vulcanological Observatory, 159.

William I, The Bad, King, 72, 73, 74.

William II, The Good, King, 47-48, 52, 74, 257.

Wine, Marsala, 242.

Xerxes, Introd., vii.

Xiphonia (see Augusta).

Zankle (Danklon, Messina), 208.

Zeus (Jupiter), Introd., viii; 103, 105, 129, 153, 235.

* * * * *

Typographical errors corrected by the etext transcriber:

as the the insignia of his rank=> as the insignia of his rank {pg 25}

TKE NORTHERN SHORE=> THE NORTHERN SHORE {pg 215}

blinding than a Silician spring morning=> blinding than a Sicilian spring morning {pg 42}

it causes not the slighest comment=> it causes not the slightest comment {pg 43}

of any length is comtemplated=> of any length is contemplated {pg 59}

at the very top of the steep to the main buildings=> at the very top of the step to the main buildings {pg 79}

failed to grasp and and master thoroughly=> failed to grasp and master thoroughly {pg 81}

not in existance in Phalaris’s time=> not in existrnce in Phalaris’s time {pg 96}

against he Turks=> against the Turks {pg 241}

Quijote, Don, and Soancho, 254, 261.=>Quijote, Don, and Sancho, 254, 261. {pg 271}

suppressesd Benedictine monastery=> suppressed Benedictine monastery {pg 158}

Agatha (Agata) St., 156.=> Agatha (Ágata) St., 156. {pg 269}

Favorita, Chateau of La, 11, 62-64.=> Favorita, Château of La, 11, 62-64. {pg 270}

Sta. Agata, 156-157.=> Sta. Ágata, 156-157. {pg 270}

Massimo, Theatre, 27, 28.=> Mássimo, Theatre, 27, 28. {pg 271}

Palaestra, 134.=>Palæstra, 134. {pg 271}

Mylae, 215.=> Mylæ, 215. {pg 271}

Sclafani Palace, 45.=>Scláfani Palace, 45. {pg 272}

End of Project Gutenberg's Vistas in Sicily, by Arthur Stanley Riggs