Chapter V: Part 5

It may happen, that immediately on the boat floating, a sea shall take the bow (before the rowers are sufficiently prepared with their oars to keep her head out), and place her broadside to the waves. In this situation, the boat is in danger of being swamped, and the lives of those on board are in peril. When thus situated, it is best for two of the rowers to go near the bow of the boat, and immediately force each his boat-hook or oar on the ground, on the shore side of the boat, as the most effectual, safe, and expeditious method of bringing her head again to the sea. Should there be more than a usual swell, both the rowers and the sitter, or steersman, cannot be too particular in keeping, throughout, the head of the boat to the swell, as lying broadside to a heavy sea is extremely dangerous.

In rowing, each man has in general a single oar, and sits on the opposite side of the galley from the rullock through which his oar passes. The oar must consequently cross the boat, and be held on its opposite side, so as to clear the back of the man before.

It should be neither held nor pulled obliquely to the side by twisting the body, as is practised by many, because the muscles in that case act disadvantageously, and are sooner fatigued. The stroke must be longer in sea than in river rowing. The oar must be thrown out with a heave, caused by the simultaneous extension of the body and the arms. It is still more essential to feather in sea than in river rowing.

The oar must be drawn back with great power, caused by the simultaneous contraction of the body and arms; time with the other rowers being accurately kept, and distinctly marked.

When the oars are delivered from the water, the time, until they go into it again, may be counted, one, two, three,--when they pass through the water. This time is kept by the strokesman, or sternmost man of the rowers.

In landing, the word is, “in bow,” when the bowman or foremost man gets the boat-hook ready to clear away for the shore, or the stairs. The next word is from the coxswain, “rowed off all,” or “well rowed;” when all the oars are laid in, with the blades forward, and the boat is made fast.

In landing on the sea-beach, when there is a surf, the rowers may watch for a smooth, and then give good way ashore, when the bowman should instantly jump out with the headfast or penter, and pull her up, to avoid shipping a sea. The distances run in this way are very great. We have known four men, in a short galley, row thirty miles in four hours, namely, from Dover to eight miles below Calais, or abreast of Gravelines, on the opposite coast. In such a row, a London waterman would have no skin left on his hands; and a member of the Funny Club would, we suppose, have no hands left on his arms!

SAILING.

BOATS, ETC.

Cutters, owing to their excellent sailing qualities, are much employed as packets[10], revenue cruisers, smugglers, privateers, and in all cases requiring despatch. The boats commonly employed in parties of pleasure, &c., are also cutters.

[10] In the packet line, since the general adoption of steam, cutters
are seldom if ever met with.--ED. Fifth Edition.

On the size of these vessels, however, it is necessary to remark, that a cutter under one hundred tons is sufficiently handy; but, when the size is equal to that of the larger yachts, a strong crew is necessary, as the spars are very heavy, and a number of men requisite to set or shorten sail. As a single-masted vessel, in the event of springing a spar, becomes helpless, even large cutters are used only in short voyages, or on the coast; for, in case of accident, they can always manage to reach some harbour or anchorage to repair any damage they may sustain. The peculiar qualities of beating well to windward, and working on short tacks, adapt cutters peculiarly for Channel cruising.

Although, some years back, large cutters were confined principally to the navy and revenue, the Royal Yacht Squadron, in theirs, have exceeded these not only in size, but in beauty and sailing qualities. Some of the finest and fastest cutters in the world are the property of this national club; and two of them, the Alarm (Mr. Weld’s), and the Arundel[11], (the Duke of Norfolk’s), measure 193 and 188 tons. The inconvenient size, however, of a cutter’s boom and mainsail has caused the very general introduction of a ketch rig, which, by the addition of a mizen, permits the boom to be dispensed with, and reduces the mainsail considerably. This rig, indeed, when the mizen stands well, is elegant; and, if a vessel is short-handed, it is very handy. As cutter-rigged vessels, instead of a regular mainsail, with its boom and gaff, have sometimes a mere spritsail, it is necessary we should observe, that the inferior convenience and safety of these preclude our noticing them here. It is also necessary that we should explain why, in the sequel, we do not even refer to lugger-rigged vessels.

[11] The tonnage of the Arundel is not given here according to the
Royal Yacht Squadron list: there it is stated to be 210 tons.--ED.
Fifth Edition.

Luggers are more difficult to work or manœuvre; they require a greater number of men; their spars are so heavy that they require all hands to move them: their decks are inevitably lumbered with spars, &c.; their canvass gets rotted from exposure; and their expense is much greater than that of cutters. They generally have two sets of lugs--large ones, which require dipping every time they tack, and small working lugs, which do not require dipping, the tack coming to the foot of the mast. The latter are generally used, except in making long reaches across the Channel, &c. A lugger, moreover, is seldom fit to be altered to any thing but a schooner, not having breadth enough for one mast, which, after all, is the best for beauty and speed.

Sailing men, indeed, are now so perfectly aware of the inferior speed of luggers, that we never see a lugger or schooner enter against a cutter at all near its tonnage. At sea, luggers would have a better chance; though even there many would prefer cutters, except in foul weather and a long reach. In short, these vessels suit only a few noblemen and gentlemen who have enough of patriotic ambition to desire to look like smugglers, enough of delicacy to disregard the being thought dirty lubbers by their own men--some of whom are not dirty from mere taste or choice, and enough of penetration not to discover, that on their landing with filthy clothes and tarry hands, every old sailor grins or laughs at their imagining, that it was they, and not the man at the helm, who had kept the canvass from cracking, or the sticks from going over the side. Our descriptions apply, therefore, to cutters alone; and the Plates at the end of this article illustrate the various parts therein referred to.

Upon the Thames, the sailing clubs comprise the Royal Sailing Society, the Royal Thames Yacht Club, the Loyal Victoria Yacht Club, the Clarence, British, Royal Yacht, and several minor associations. Several cups and prizes are annually given during the season; and the spirited contests between the beautiful small craft which form these fancy fleets, are highly interesting. The sailing matches on the river are of two sorts--one above, and the other below the bridges. The smaller yachts, of from six to twenty-six tons, are commonly entered for the former, and a larger class for the latter, which take place between Greenwich and Gravesend. These national amusements appear to be rapidly gaining the first place among fashionable recreations, and now occupy the season, from the period when hunting ends, till shooting begins.

The Royal Yacht Squadron has nearly six hundred persons on its lists, of which above one hundred are members, and about four hundred and fifty honorary members. The number of yachts is one hundred and nine[12]; of which eighty-seven are cutters, ten schooners, three brigs, four yawls, two ships, two ketches, and one lugger. The greater part of these vessels hail from Cowes or Southampton. The shipping belonging to the club amounts to 7250 tons. Now, a vessel of one hundred tons seldom perhaps stands the owner in less than from five to six thousand pounds, varying from that to ten, according to the profusion of ornamental parts, the internal fittings, and other contingencies. At this rate, the shipping of the club would have cost more than three millions and a half of money: but it is impossible to speak decisively on this point, as the first cost of the yachts varies much, and the numerous styles of rig are attended with expenses so widely different. At a moderate computation, each vessel belonging to the club carries ten men on an average: this gives the total number employed 1090. During the summer months, then, while regattas are celebrated, it may be said that the Royal Yacht Squadron alone employs more than 1100 men. These, with some few exceptions, are discharged on the approach of winter, and the yachts are laid up for the season, retaining the master and one man in pay. The crews thus discharged obtain employment in merchant-vessels, or otherwise, during the winter; and in the middle of spring, are generally re-shipped in the yachts in which they have previously served. On these conditions, active and industrious men of good character are generally sure of employment in the club; and many members justly pride themselves on the high discipline, manly bearing, and crack appearance of their crews. The situation of master, in particular, is one of much responsibility, and is on all accounts respectably filled. In some of the largest craft, junior officers of the navy are found to accept this office. The sailing regulations of the Royal Yacht Squadron are as follow;

[12] As the number is constantly fluctuating, we had better take the
average at a hundred, which will be found quite as high a one as we
should be justified in suggesting.

First--Members entering their yachts must send the names of them to the secretary one week previous to the day of sailing, and pay two guineas entrance at the same time.

Second--All vessels starting or entering must be the _bonâ fide_ property of members, as well as their spars, sails, boats, &c.

Third--Each member is allowed to enter one vessel only for all prizes given by the club.

Fourth--Cutters may carry four sails only, viz., mainsail, foresail, jib, and gaff top-sail; yawls, luggers, schooners, and all other vessels, in like proportion. No booming out allowed.

Fifth--No trimming with ballast, or shifting of ballast allowed; and all vessels to keep their platforms down, and bulkheads standing.

Sixth--Vessels on the larboard tack must invariably give way to those on the starboard tack; and in all cases where a doubt of the possibility of the vessel on the larboard tack weathering the one on the starboard tack shall exist, the vessel on the larboard tack shall give way; or, if the other vessel keep her course, and run into her, the owner of the vessel on the larboard tack shall be compelled to pay all damages, and forfeit his claim to the prize.

Seventh--Vessels running on shore shall be allowed to use their own anchors and boats actually on board to get them off, afterwards weighing anchor and hoisting the boat in; but, upon receiving assistance from any other vessel or vessels, boats, or anchors, shall forfeit all claim to the prize.

Eighth--That nothing but the hand-line be used for sounding.

Ninth--Any deviation from these rules shall subject the aggressor to forfeit all claim to the prize.

Tenth--If any objection be made with regard to the sailing of any other vessel in the race, such objection must be made to the stewards, within one hour after the vessel making the objection arrive at the starting-post.

Eleventh--No vessel shall be allowed to take in ballast, or take out, for twenty-four hours previous to starting; and no ballast shall be thrown overboard.

Twelfth--Vessels shall start from moorings laid down at a cable-length distance, with their sails set; and every vessel not exceeding one hundred tons shall carry a boat not less than ten feet long; and vessels exceeding one hundred tons, a boat not less than fourteen feet long.

Thirteenth--There shall be a member, or honorary member, on board each vessel.

Fourteenth--The time of starting may be altered by the stewards; and all disputes that may arise are to be decided by them, or such persons as they shall appoint.

* * * * *

The Northern Yacht Club is a highly interesting society, although its plan is not so extensive as that of the Royal Club. It contains about three hundred and fifty members. The documents for 1830 comprise ninety-two in the Scottish, and ninety in the Irish division, with fifty-two honorary members, in addition to ninety-three members of the Cork Yacht Club, who are also entered on the honorary lists. It had, in 1830, sixty yachts, not equal in proportion to the tonnage of the Cowes Club, as smaller vessels are admitted. Many R. Y. S. men are found in the Northern Club. There are many fine vessels in this club. Cutters, as usual, excel in number.

At the lowest computation, the number of vessels at present employed for pleasure in this country cannot be less than from three to four hundred, ranging in bulk from ten to three hundred and fifty tons. These are variously distributed along our shores, carrying their opulence into every port and harbour. But there is another advantage arising from yacht clubs--namely, that national spirit, which, to a maritime people, is above all in worth. The yacht clubs keep alive this feeling in an eminent degree.

COURSES, ETC.

Even in describing the elementary nautical operations which such boats require, it is necessary to lay down a position for the HARBOUR, direction for the WIND, and trip for the VESSEL.

Let us suppose, then, that the mouth of the harbour lies towards the south; that the wind blows from the north, with a little inclination to east, and that we wish first to sail due south to get out of the harbour, next direct our course eastward, then return westward till we get abreast the mouth of the harbour, and lastly, northward, to enter the harbour and come to our moorings.

These courses will, with variations in the force of the wind, illustrate every common and useful manœuvre.

GETTING UNDER WAY.

Ship[13] the tiller.[14]

[13] Fix in its proper place.

[14] The piece of wood or beam put into the head of the rudder to
move it.

Set the mainsail[15]; hoist the throat[16] nearly close up; and half hoist the peak.[17]

[15] Unfurl it by casting the stops or gaskets off.

[16] The foremost end of the gaff, or that end next the mast.

[17] The outermost end of the gaff, or that farthest from the mast.

Bend[18] and haul the jib out to the bowsprit end.

[18] Hook it to the traveller, or ring on the bowsprit.

Bowse the bobstay[19] and bowsprit shrouds[20] well taut.

[19] A rope or chain from the end of the bowsprit to half-way down
the stem.

[20] Ropes from the bowsprit end on each side to the bows.

Hoist the jib, and bowse it well up.

Get the topmast stay[21], backstays[22], and rigging[23] well taut.

[21] A rope from the topmast head to the outer end of the bowsprit,
where it passes through a sheave or small block, comes in by the stem
head, and is belayed or made fast (done generally by winding several
times backwards and forwards in the manner of a figure 8), to its
cleat or pin.

[22] Ropes from the after-part of the head of the topmast to the
after-part of the channels on each side.

[23] Or shrouds--ropes from each side the top-mast head, through the
cross-tree arms, to the fore part of the channels, between the first
and second lower shroud. They are set up or hauled taut, as are the
backstays, by means of a small tackle, one block of which is hooked
to the thimble spliced into the lower end of the shroud or backstay,
and the other to an eye-bolt in the channels.

Hoist the foresail ready to cast[24] her when the moorings are let go.

[24] To turn her head in the most advantageous direction.

Send a hand to the helm.[25]

[25] This term includes both the tiller and the wheel; but, as the
yawing motion of a small light vessel is correspondingly light and
feeble, though much quicker than that of a large vessel, she is best
without a wheel, which is meant to gain power at the expense of time.

Overhaul the main-sheet[26], and the lee[27] runner and tackle[28]; lower the throat, and hoist the peak of the mainsail taut[29] up.

[26] A rope or tackle for regulating the horizontal position of the
main boom.

[27] The leeward or lee-side is the opposite to windward.

[28] A compound tackle, used in cutter-rigged vessels, instead of a
backstay to the lower mast, on account of its easy removal allowing
the main boom to go forward, in going large.

[29] The nautical way of pronouncing and writing _tight_.

Hoist the gaff topsail[30], keeping the tack[31] to windward[32] of the peak halyards[33], and hauling the slack of the sheet out before you hoist the sail taut up.

[30] The sail above the mainsail. The sheet hauls out to a small
block on the outer end of the gaff.

[31] Tack is the lowermost corner opposite to the sheet, in all
fore-and-aft sails and studding sails.

[32] The windward or weather side, is that side on which the wind
blows.

[33] The rope by which the peak of the gaff or boom, to which the
head of the mainsail is fastened, is hoisted. Halyards always
signifies a rope by which a sail is hoisted.

Set the tack, and heave the sheet well taut.

BEFORE THE WIND.[34]

_With the Main Boom over to Starboard._[35]

[34] That is, going the same way the wind blows. Her course is then
sixteen points from the wind. (See Compass.)

[35] Starboard is the right, and larboard the left hand side, when
looking toward the head of the vessel.

In managing the helm, be careful not to jibe the mainsail.

When a vessel is going large[36], the helmsman should always place himself on the weather side of the tiller, or the side opposite to that which the main boom is over, as his view of the vessel’s head will then be unobstructed by the sails. The boat now running before the wind, haul the tack of mainsail up. If the wind come dead aft, you may flatten aft the jib and foresail sheets[37], or haul the foresail down to prevent chafing. If the wind come at all round on the starboard quarter[38], slack off the boom guy[39]; haul in the main-sheet till you get the boom a-midships[40], or nearly so; port[41] the helm, and jibe the mainsail; slack off the main-sheet again, and hook the guy on the larboard side; haul taut the starboard runner and tackle, and overhaul the larboard one; the same with the topping-lift[42]; hoist the head sails[43], and shift the sheets over.

[36] Or free, not close-hauled. Generally understood as having the
wind abaft the beam, or that her course is then eight points from the
wind.

[37] Ropes fast to the aftermost lower corner of the jib and
foresail, to hold them down. The jib has two ropes or sheets fast to
its corner, one of which comes on each side the forestay, for the
convenience of tacking, &c. The foresail has only one sheet, which
is fast to the traveller, or ring on the horse or bar of iron, which
crosses from one gunwale to the other, just before the mast.

[38] The point on either side where the side and stern meet.

[39] A small tackle, one end of which is hooked to the main boom, and
the other forward, to keep the boom from swinging.

[40] Midway between the sides of the vessel.

[41] Instead of larboard, when speaking of the helm, port is the
proper term, in contrariety to starboard, used for the sake of
distinctness in directing the helmsman.

[42] Stout ropes which lead, one from each side the main boom, near
its outer end, through a block on its respective side the mast, just
under the cross-trees, whence it descends about half-way, and is
connected to the deck or gunwale by a tackle.

[43] Jib and foresail.

N.B. If you are obliged to jibe as above, you must, in the following directions for bringing the wind on your beam, read larboard for starboard, and _vice versâ_.

BRINGING THE VESSEL WITH THE WIND ON THE LARBOARD BEAM.[44]

[44] That is, athwart or across the waist of the vessel, called
a-beam, because it is in the same direction that her beams lay, or at
right angles with her keel. Her head is then eight points from the
wind.--The wind is said to be abaft the beam, or before the beam,
according as the vessel’s head is more or less than eight points from
the wind.

Supposing that you have not jibed, starboard the helm a little, and let the vessel spring her luff[45] with her head to the northward. Slack the boom guy, and haul in the main-sheet. Haul aft[46] the jib-sheet, and bowline[47] the foresail.

[45] Sail nearer to the wind.

[46] That is, toward the hinder part or stern.

[47] A rope made fast to the foremost shroud, and passed through a
thimble in the after-leach of the foresail, then round the shroud
again, and round the sheet.

If she come up fast, port the helm[48] a little, and meet her, then right[49] it when she lays her proper course.

[48] Always put the helm the contrary way to that which you want the
vessel’s head to turn.

[49] That is, bring it a-midships; the same with _steady_.

Hook and haul taut the lee runner and tackle. You will now find it necessary to carry the helm a little a-port or a-weather.

* * * * *

If, instead of directing our course eastward, we had preferred doing so westward, we must have jibed previous to bringing the wind on the beam, and then the preceding operations would necessarily have been, to a corresponding extent, reversed.

CLOSE-HAULING THE VESSEL.[50]

[50] To haul the sheets aboard, or more a-midships, by which means
the vessel’s head will come closer to the point the wind blows from.

To haul the vessel to the wind, ease the helm down[51] a little. Haul in the main-sheet upon the proper mark. Bowse the foresheet, and haul the jib-sheet well aft. Bowse the runner and tackle well taut.

[51] To leeward.

The vessel is now on the wind, plies to windward, or is close-hauled.[52]

[52] These terms all imply one thing, viz., that the vessel is
sailing as near as possible to the point whence the wind blows.
No square-rigged vessel will sail within less than six, and no
fore-and-aft rigged vessel within less than five, points of the wind,
to have any head-way.

Being now apt to gripe, or come up into the wind with a sudden jerk, now and again, she wall carry her helm more or less a-weather. The helmsman must watch the weather-leach of the mainsail, to prevent the vessel getting her head in the wind.

TACKING.[53]

[53] To turn a vessel from one side to the other with her head toward
the wind. When a vessel is obliged to tack several times successively
to get to windward, she is said to be beating to windward; when to
get up or down a harbour, channel, &c., beating up or down, &c.; when
trying to get off a lee shore, clawing off.

A vessel’s tacks are always to windward and forward; and her sheets,
to leeward and aft; whence the terms larboard or starboard tack,
meaning that she has her tacks aboard on the larboard or starboard
side.

Having got abreast or opposite the mouth of the harbour, haul the fore bowline. “Ready about.”[54] Put your helm up, or to windward a little, and let the vessel go rather off the wind, to get good way on her; then gently down or to leeward with it, which is announced by the helmsman calling “Helm’s a-lee.” Let fly the jib-sheet: this takes off the balance of wind from her head, and acts in concert with the helm in sweeping her stern to leeward, or rather in allowing her head to come quicker up into the wind.

[54] A command that all hands are to be attentive, and at their
stations for tacking.

The man who attends the jib-sheet must carefully gather in the slack[55] of the one opposite to that which he let go. When the jib comes over the larboard side of the stay[56], haul the larboard jib-sheet well aft. When the mainsail is filled, let draw the foresail.[57] Right the helm, and shift over the tack of the mainsail.

[55] Or loose rope.

[56] The fore-stay, or large rope from the lower mast head to the
stem head, to prevent the mast from springing when the vessel is
sending deep, or fallen into the hollow between two waves, after
pitching.

[57] That is, let go the bowline which holds the sail to this, now
weather shroud. It was held there till now, that the wind might act
upon it with greater power to turn the vessel, from the time her
head was about half-way round. The expression is derived from its
being necessary, in larger vessels of a similar rig, to ease the
rope gradually as the sail draws it. From the time the jib-sheet is
let fly, till the foresail is let draw, the vessel is said to be _in
stays_.

One hand should attend the main-sheet, to gather in the slack till the boom is a-midships, and then ease it off as the sail fills, and the vessel lays over to port. When the vessel is in stays, and it is doubtful whether she will come round, or, in order to make her come round when she gathers stern-way, shift the helm to the opposite side. She is now about upon the starboard tack.

REEFING, TAKING IN SAIL, ETC.

Haul the fore-sheet up to windward; bowline it there, and heave her to. Keep the tiller shipped, and lash it a-lee. In gaff topsail; lower the halyards; and haul down. Send a hand aloft to unbend the sheet from the sail, and make it fast to the main halyard bolt; and unlash the gaff topsail, and send it down. Lower the main halyards and peak to the second reef cringle, and reef the mainsail.

Hook the reef tackle[58] to the first earing[59]; haul upon it till the cringle[60] is close down upon the boom; and belay the tackle. Pass a small gasket[61] through the tack and the first reef cringle, and lash the two firmly together, taking care to gather in snug the luff of the sail, so that the leach rope belonging to it forms a sort of snake near the mast. Haul up the tack, and bowse upon the weather peak line, keeping the other part fast a-midships of the boom. This will hold the belly of the sail partly to windward, and make it easier to tie the reef-points. Observe to keep the foot-rope outside and under the sail.

[58] A small tackle formed of two hook blocks, one of which is hooked
to the under part of the boom about one third from the mast, and the
other farther aft. The fall is belayed to a cleat under the boom.

[59] A stout rope, one end of which is made fast to the boom at the
same distance from the mast as the reef cringle to which it belongs.
It ascends, passes through the cringle, descends and passes through a
sheave on the side of the boom, then in board, and is stopped to the
boom by means of its lanyard, or small line spliced into its end for
the purpose. This lanyard is also to make it fast when the sail is
reefed, and you wish to remove the tackle.

[60] A short loop of rope with a thimble or small ring of iron inside
it, spliced to the leach of the sail.

[61] A rope made by plaiting rope-yarns.

Let one man jump upon the boom to tie the outer points so far that the rest can be tied on board. Let go the tack and peak line, always keeping the ends of this fast under the boom. Hoist the sail taut up; and set taut the tack tackle. Shift the jib to No. 2. Overhaul the jib purchase; let go the outhaul; haul the jib down; unhook the tack; unbend the sheets; and send the sail down below.

You have now got one reef in the mainsail. If it come on to blow harder, and you want a second reef, lower the sail, and haul on the peak line as before; nipper the first reef-earing so as to hold it a short time; let go the reef tackle, and unhook it from the earing, which make fast with its lanyard round the boom.

You have now got the tackle to use for the second reef. Proceed as for the first reef. Shift the jib to No. 3, and proceed as before. If third, the same, after rigging the bowsprit. Take the fid[62] or bolt out of the heel of the bowsprit, and rig the bowsprit in about one fid hole. Haul taut the topmast stay and bowsprit rigging. Bend and set the small jib in the same way as any other.

[62] A bar of wood or iron, which passes horizontally through a hole
in each bitt and the heel of the bowsprit, to secure it in its place,
much in the same way that a carriage pole is secured.

You may want to stow the mainsail, set the trysail, and make her otherwise snug in proportion. Sway away upon the top rope; lift the mast a little to let the man unfid it; and lower topmast down in the slings. Lower the fore halyards, and reef the foresail. Gather the luff of the sail up; make the foremost reef-earing cringle fast to the tack; shift the sheet from the clue of the sail to the after reef cringle; and tie the points. If the weather is very heavy, haul down the stay-sail, and tend the vessel with a tackle upon the weather jib-sheet.

* * * * *

When it comes fine weather again, make sail in precisely the reverse order to that in which you shorten it. Continue to tack in the wind’s eye till you are to windward of the harbour.

_Page 119._

The Mariner’s Compass.

Plan of the Deck.]

PASSING OTHER VESSELS.

All vessels sailing before the wind keep out of the way of those upon the wind. In the river Thames, vessels which sail with the larboard tack aboard, keep away for those with the starboard tack aboard.

BRINGING THE VESSEL INTO HARBOUR.

Lower and haul down the gaff topsail. Let go the jib tack or outhaul[63]; lower the jib; and pull on the down-hauler, to bring the traveller in. Haul the tack of the mainsail up; and lower the peak. Down foresail.

[63] A rope made fast to the traveller, to haul it out to the
bowsprit end.

Let a small boat run away the wrap to the quay. Lower, and stow the mainsail. Unbend the jib, and stow it below if dry and not immediately wanted, and hook the halyards to the traveller, close in by the stem. If otherwise, hoist upon the halyards, and let it hang to dry if it require it, or stop it up and down the foremost shroud. Haul the vessel to the moorings, and moor properly, putting fenders over to keep her from the quay.

DESCRIPTION OF PLATE XXXI.

_Fig. 1._

The mariner’s compass.

_Fig. 2._

Plan of the deck, with the bowsprit rigged out, &c.

1. Bowsprit.
2. 2. Bowsprit shrouds.
3. Stem head.
4. Bowsprit bitts.
5. Fore hatchway.
6. Windlass and bitts.
7. Fore-sheet horse.
8. Place of the mast.
9. 9. Channels.
10. Main hatchway.
11. Companion and binnacle.
12. Tiller.
13. Cabin skylight.
14. Rudder-head and case.
15. Taffrail.

PLATE XXXII. fig. 1.

Pleasure boat, cutter-rigged, lying at anchor; foresail and mainsail bent and stowed.

1. Vane and spindle.
2. Truck.
3. Topmast.
4. Cap.
5. Trussel trees.
6. Lower mast.
7. 7. Cross trees.
8. Bowsprit.
9. Gaff, with mainsail furled.
10. Main boom.
11. Tiller.
12. Rudder.
13. Stem.
14. 14. Topmast shrouds.
15. Topmast backstay.
16. Topmast stay.
17. Runner and tackle.
18. Traveller.
19. Channel.
20. Forestay with the foresail furled to it.
21. Bobstay.
22. Topping-lifts.
23. Topping-lift blocks.
24. Main-sheet.
25. 25. Peak halyards.
26. Jib halyards.
27. Cable.
28. Fore-sheet.

PLATE XXXII. fig. 2.

The vessel going down the harbour with all sails set, steering south, before a light breeze.

1. Gaff topsail.
2. Foresail.
3. Mainsail.
4. Tack tricing line.
5. Peak line, or signal halyards.
6. 7. 8. The 1st, 2nd, and 3rd reefs.
9. 9. 9. Reef-earings.
10. 10. 10. Cringles.
11. Balance reef.
12. Anchor stock.
13. Windlass.
14. Foresheet horse.
15. Main hatch.
16. Companion and binnacle.

PLATE XXXIII. fig. 1.

The vessel outside the harbour, steering east, with a smart breeze on the larboard beam.

1. Jib.
2. Foresail.
3. Anchor.
4. Eyebolt of the bowsprit shrouds.

PLATE XXXIII. fig. 2.

The vessel trying for the harbour in a heavy gale, close to the wind as she can lay, on the starboard tack, under a reefed mainsail and foresail, bowsprit reefed, and topmast lowered.

_Page 120._

Parts in Pleasure Boat at Anchor.

Boat before a light breeze.]

_Page 120._

Boat with a breeze on the larboard beam.

Boat close to the wind on the Starboard tack.]

RIDING.

The general art of riding, sometimes called manège riding, to distinguish it from its modifications in road-riding, hunting, racing, &c., teaches us to place every part of the body so that it can act upon the horse in every emergency, shows the effect of all the aids or modes of guiding him, and enables us to render him obedient to the slightest touch. By never suffering the ascendancy to be transferred to the horse, by in general preventing him from making all his speed, and by exhausting him the sooner the more he exerts himself without permission, it bestows upon the rider perfect security.

An intimate knowledge of this method is necessary even to our abandoning it when convenient, to our adopting the styles, afterwards to be described, for more extended and rapid paces, or for long continued riding, to our suffering the horse to take more or less of ascendancy, and to our, when necessary, easily recovering that superiority of the hand, of which those who are ignorant of this fundamental method are less capable.

The recent practice has been to carry the foot rather more forward than is represented in our Plates, approaching in this respect, to the ancient position, as seen in the Elgin marbles, &c.

A Parisian bit, which is attached to the mouth of the horse, without a headstall, has been lately used. It is, however, applicable only to _horses_, on account of its being retained in the mouth by means of the side tusks, which _mares_ do not possess. It is composed of a semicircular bar of iron, which goes under the chin, to which its concavity applies; while a short bar, firmly attached to one of its ends, passes nearly half-way through the mouth. Through the other end of the semicircle is a hole, into which, when the bit is on, must be screwed a bolt, similar to the one just described. These two bolts, it is easily understood, pass behind the tusks, and nearly meet in the centre of the mouth.[64]

[64] THE SADDLE (_Fig. 1_).--_a_, pommel; _b_, cantle; _c_, panel;
_d_, flaps; _e_, stirrup leather; _f_, girths.

BRIDLES (_Fig. 2_)--_a_, _b_, headstall with the cheekstraps; _c_,
do. of the curb; _d_, do. of the bridoon or snaffle passing through
it over the poll; _e_, nosetrap (seldom found in any but military
bridles), _f_, throatlash. _Fig. 3._ A twisted snaffle-bit. _Fig.
4._ A plain snaffle-bit. _Fig. 5._ A Weymouth curb, with chain and
chainstrap (_a_) attached. _Fig. 6._ A common curb-bit, with the
upset in the mouthpiece.

THE HORSE AND EQUIPMENTS.

Plates XXXIV., XXXV. f. 1 give better ideas of the horse and his equipments than the longest and most detailed description. The reader will therefore examine them in succession. We have here only to add those circumstances as to the equipment of the horse, which could not be communicated by that otherwise briefer and more impressive method.

The shoes of a horse have much to do with his, and consequently with his rider’s, comfort. It is therefore important to know that he is properly shod. To effect this, the shoe should be fitted to the foot, and not the foot to the shoe.

_Page 122._

Horse Equipments.]

_Page 122._

The Parts of the Horse.

First View of Mounting.]

Neither heel nor frog should be pared more than merely to take off what is ragged; for no reproduction takes place here, as in the case of the hoof. Farriers ruin nearly all horses by doing otherwise. Indeed, they are not to be trusted with this operation, which, after shoeing, any gentleman may perform with his pocket-knife. The sole of the foot must not be hollowed out, but only the outer wall pared flat or even with the sole, and most at the toe. Nor, above all things, ought the farrier’s finishing rasp all round the edge of the horn immediately above the shoe to be permitted. Neither ought nails to be driven far backward towards the heel, where the horn is softer and more sensible, especially at the inner quarter. When a horse has a high heel, the foot, except the frog, may be pared flat, but not hollowed out or opened. When a horse has a low heel, the foot should be pared only at the toes.

It is common to allow the fore part or toe of the hoof to grow long, thereby throwing the horse much on his heels. This position is unnatural, because, were the horse in a state of nature, without shoes, the toe, from constant contact with the ground, would be worn down to its proper level with the heel. This growth, then, of the fore part of the hoof, by throwing him on his heels, renders them tender, and causes lameness: while the foot, not being flat on the ground, also strains the ligaments of the fetlock joint. These evils may be obviated by doing as nature directs--by cutting away the toe to the proper level with the heel, so as to allow the foot to bear flat upon the ground. When a horse has a short pastern, he should have a short shoe, because a long one would compel him to bring his heel more backward than the unpliableness of his pastern would easily admit.

The saddle should be proportioned to the size of the horse. Before, the bearings should be clear of the plate bone; behind, they should not extend further than within four inches of the hips; and their pressure should be equal on every part intended to be touched. The closer the saddle then comes the better, if neither the weight of the rider nor settling of the panel can possibly injure the withers or chine. Before mounting, the rider should examine whether the saddle, girths, straps, bits, bridle, &c., are all good and well fixed.

When the saddle is on the horse, the lowest part of the seat should rather be behind its centre, as it is there that the weight of the body should fall, and by that means the thighs can keep their proper position. The best test of the adaptation of the seat is, when the rider, without stirrups or effort, easily falls into his proper place in the saddle.

Stirrups should not be used until the pupil is capable of riding without them. Their proper length is when the upper edge of the horizontal bar reaches a finger’s breadth below the inner ankle-bone. When the feet are in the stirrups, the heels should be about two inches lower than the toes. No more than the natural weight of the limbs should be thrown upon them. It is by an accurate position, and an easy play of the ankle and instep, that the stirrup is retained, so as to slip neither forward nor backward, even if the toe be raised for a moment.

The position on horseback with stirrups differs from that without them only in this, that the thigh being, by the stirrup, relieved from the weight of the leg and foot, the knee is slightly bent, and rather before the lines which these form in the position without stirrups. In hussar riding, hunting, &c., the breadth of four fingers should intervene between the fork and the saddle when the rider stands up.

Spurs should never be used but by an accomplished rider. When it is necessary to employ them, they should be applied a few inches behind the girth, as low as possible, and with the lightest touch capable of producing the effect.

As to the bridle, in order to give the greatest possible ease to the snaffle, a large and polished bit is necessary. Most bits are too small and long, bend back over the bars of the horse’s jaw, work like pincers, and cut his mouth.

To give the greatest degree of severity, the bit, while hot, is twisted into a spiral form, so as to present to the jaw a rough and sharp surface, capable of pressing the bars or lips with greater or less severity. The degrees of punishment which this bit is capable of inflicting are generally sufficient for all the purposes of correction. It is therefore best to ride with a snaffle, and to use a curb only occasionally when absolutely necessary. In all cases, the rider should observe that the horse is furnished with a bit proper for him. If too light, it may have the effect already described. If too heavy, it may incline him to carry the head low, or to rest upon the hand, which jockeys call “making use of a fifth leg.” The simplest and most useful of the _curb_ kind is the Weymouth bit, which consists of a strong plain mouth-piece of uniform thickness, without any upset, but merely a curve forwards, to give ease to the tongue.

The centre of the reins should be accurately marked; and, when both reins are held in one hand, and the near rein has to pass under the little finger, and over the fore-finger, on the outside of the off-rein, the latter should be held about half an inch shorter, and the centre should be brought proportionally towards the left. In adjusting the bridle on the horse’s head, the headstall, parallel to and above the cheekbone, must have its length so regulated as to permit the mouth-piece of the curb to rest on the bars, an inch above the lower tushes in horses, and about two inches above the corner teeth in mares, which have no tushes. The nose-band, lying under the snaffle headstall, must be buckled so loosely that a finger can pass freely under it and over the horse’s nose. The bit of the snaffle must be higher, but not so much so as to wrinkle the corner of the mouth. The throat-lash must be buckled rather loose. The mane is usually cut close under the headstall; the finger clears any part of the foretop interfering with it; and the remainder, when combed smooth, is put either over or under the front.

If the rider uses a curb, he should make it a rule to hook on the chain himself; for the quietest horse may bring his rider into danger, if the curb hurt him. The curb-chain must pass under the snaffle. The rider should, therefore, put his right hand under the snaffle reins to take hold of the curb-chain, and introducing two fingers of his left within the cheek of the bit, and aiding these with his thumb, take hold of the curb hook. The end links of the curb-chain being in his right hand, he should turn the chain to the right and under, or as he would a screw, till every link lies flat and smooth, and then, without losing a half turn, put that link on the hook which appears to be neither tight nor slack. The finger should pass between the horse’s jaw and curb, which in this case hangs down upon his under lip. It is necessary also to see how it operates. If the branch has liberty to move forty-five degrees, or to a right angle, it is the degree which is in general best. If, however, one link of the chain confine it to thirty-five degrees, and if one link lower give it fifty-five degrees, then the manner of the horse’s carrying his head must determine which is most proper: if the horse naturally carry his nose high, the branch may have fifty-five, if he bring his nose in, he should have thirty-five degrees. If there be a chain-strap, it must be placed so high on the branch, that when passed through the ring in the curb-chain, it may be buckled tight enough to prevent the horse lodging the branch on his teeth.

When a horse’s head is steady, when he is light in hand, can obey its motions with ease, and stop readily, the bit is properly adjusted. On the contrary, if he open his mouth as if gagged, writhe his jaws, draw his tongue above the mouth-piece, or thrust it out sidewise; if he fear the impression of the bit, have no appuy, toss his head up and down, carry it low, and endeavour to force the hand, or refuse to go forward, or run backward, the bit is not properly adjusted.

MOUNTING AND DISMOUNTING.

In mounting, the rider,--presenting himself rather before the horse’s shoulder, with his left breast towards that shoulder, and with his whip or switch in his left hand,--takes, with the right hand, the snaffle reins in the centre;--introduces the little finger of the left hand between them from before, the back of that hand being towards the horse’s head;--places the left hand below the right on the neck of the horse, about twelve inches from the saddle;--draws with the right hand the reins through the left, and shortens them, till the left has a light and equal feeling of both reins on the horse’s mouth;--throws, with the right hand, the reins to the off side;--takes, with the same hand, a lock of the mane, brings it through the left hand, and turns it round the left thumb:--and closes the left hand firmly on the mane and reins.

_Page 127._

Second View of Mounting.

The Seat.]

The right hand, after quitting the mane, lays hold of the left stirrup, the fingers being behind, and the thumb in front of it;--the left foot is raised and put into the stirrup as far as the ball of it, Pl XXXV f 2 the right foot is then moved until the rider’s face is turned to the side of the horse, and looking across the saddle; while the right hand is placed on the cantle, the left knee against the saddle on the surcingle, with the left heel drawn back, to avoid touching the horse’s side with the toe;--by a spring of the right foot from the instep, not by any pull with the right hand, the rider raises himself in the stirrup, the knees firm against the saddle, the heels together, but drawn back a little, and the body erect, and partially supported by the right hand Pl XXXVI f 1 the right hand moves from the cantle to the pommel, and supports the body;--the right leg at the same time passes clearly over the horse’s quarters to the off side;--the right knee closes on the saddle; the body comes gently into it;--the left hand quits the mane, and the right the pommel.

The left, or bridle hand, with the wrist rounded outwards, is placed opposite the centre of the body, and at three inches’ distance from it;--the right hand is dropped by the side of the thigh;--the stirrup is taken instantly with the right foot, without the help of hand or eye;--the clothes are adjusted;--and the whip is exchanged from the left hand to the right, being held with the lash upwards, but inclining a little towards the left ear of the horse, and never leaving the right hand, except while mounting or dismounting,--(Plate XXXVI. f. 2.)

The horse is to be accustomed to stand till the rider request him to move. The habit of unsteadiness is acquired from grooms, who, on going out to water and exercise, throw themselves over a horse from some elevation, and give a kick to the animal even before being fairly upon it. If a groom attend at mounting, he ought not to be suffered to touch the reins, but only that part of the bridle which comes down the cheek.

In dismounting, the whip is to be returned into the left hand;--the right hand takes hold of the rein above the left;--the right foot quits the stirrup;--the left hand slides forward on the rein, to about twelve inches from the saddle, feeling the horse’s mouth very lightly;--the right hand, dropping the reins to the off side, takes a lock of the mane, brings it through the left, and twists it round the left thumb;--the fingers of the left hand close on it;--the right hand is placed on the pommel; the body being kept erect. The body is supported with the right hand and left foot;--the right leg is, without touching the horse’s hind-quarters or the saddle, brought gently to the near side, with the heels close, care being take not to bend the right knee, lest the spur should touch the horse;--the right hand passes at the same time to the cantle, to preserve the balance, as in the act of mounting;--the body is gently lowered until the right toe touches the ground;--resting on the right foot, the left stirrup is quitted, and the left foot placed in line with the horse’s hoofs;--the hands remaining as in the former motion. Both hands then quit their holds of the mane and cantle;--and the right hand lays hold of the snaffle rein near the ring of the bit.

In mounting without stirrups,--after taking up the reins, instead of seizing the mane, the rider lays hold of the pommel and cantle, and, by a spring of both legs from the insteps, raises the body to the centre of the saddle. By a second spring of both arms, the right leg is carried over the horse, and the rider enters his proper seat by closing the knees on the saddle, and sliding gently into it.

In dismounting without stirrups, on either side of the horse, the rider throws the weight of the body on the hands placed on the pommel, and, by a spring, raises the body out of the saddle before the leg is brought over the horse.

THE SEAT.

The seat must be understood in an extended sense as the disposition of the various parts of the body, in conformity with the action of the horse; and its effect is the rider’s being firm in the saddle, when he might be otherwise thrown forward over the horse’s head, or backward over his tail.

The fundamental seat is that intermediate one of which all others are modifications, and in which the rider sits when the horse is going straight forward, without any bend in his position. In describing this, it is first necessary to consider the rider’s relation to the horse.--He must sit on that part of the animal’s body which, as he springs in his paces, is the centre of motion: from which, of course, any weight would be most difficultly shaken. The place of this seat is that part of the saddle into which the rider’s body would naturally slide were he to ride without stirrups. This seat is to be preserved only by a proper balance of his body, and its adaptation to even the most violent counteractions of the horse. Turf jockeys necessarily sit further back, that they may employ the pulls.