Chapter I: Front Matter

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
the text and consultation of external sources.

More detail can be found at the end of the book.

WANDERINGS IN SPAIN.

BY

THÉOPHILE GAUTIER.

With numerous Engravings.

LONDON:
INGRAM, COOKE, AND CO.

MDCCCLIII.

WANDERINGS IN SPAIN.

BY

THÉOPHILE GAUTIER.

With numerous Engravings.

LONDON:
INGRAM, COOKE, AND CO.

MDCCCLIII.

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

FROM PARIS TO BORDEAUX.
PAGE
Departure from Paris--Subterranean Dwellings--Château Regnault--
Tours--Châtellerault--Angoulême--The _Landes_--Cubzac--Bordeaux--
The Theatre--The Cathedral--St. Michael's Tower--Mummified
Corpses--The Museum 1

CHAPTER II.

FROM BORDEAUX TO VERGARA.

The _Landes_--Arrival at Bayonne--Information for Travellers--
Urrugne--Saint Jean de Luz--Human Smuggling--Bridge over the
Bidassoa--Irun--Travelling with Mules--Primitive Carts--Beggar
Children--Spanish Bridges--Oyarzun--Astigarraga--A Spanish
Supper--Puchero--Arrival at Vergara 11

CHAPTER III.

FROM VERGARA TO BURGOS.

Vergara--Vittoria: the Baile Nacional and the French Hercules--
The Passage of Pancorbo--The Asses and the Greyhounds--Burgos--
A Spanish Fonda--Galley Slaves in Cloaks--The Cathedral--The
Coffer of the Cid 20

CHAPTER IV.

BURGOS--_continued_.

The Cloisters; Paintings and Sculptures--The Cid's House; the Casa
del Cordon; the Puerta de Santa Maria--The Theatre and the
Actors--La Cartuja de Miraflores--General Thibaut and the Cid's
bones 34

CHAPTER V.

FROM BURGOS TO MADRID.

El Correo Real; the Galeras--Valladolid--San Pablo--A Representation
of Hernani--Santa Maria--Madrid 47

CHAPTER VI.

MADRID.

Bull-fights--The Arena--Calesins--Espadas, Chulos, Banderilleros,
and Picadores--Sevilla the Picador--La Estocada a Vuela Pies 59

CHAPTER VII.

MADRID--_continued_.

The Prado--The Mantilla and Fan--The Spanish Type--Water-Merchants;
Coffee-houses of Madrid--Newspapers--The Politicians of the
Puerta del Sol--Post-Office--The Houses of Madrid--Tertullias;
Spanish Society--The Teatro del Principe--The Queen's Palace; the
Palace of the Cortes, and the Monument of the Dos de Mayo--The
Armeria and El Buen Retiro 73

CHAPTER VIII.

VISIT TO THE ESCURIAL.

Aridity and Desolation of the Country--First View of the Escurial--
Sombre appearance of the building--The Church--The blind Cicerone--
The Pantheon Pictures--Anecdote of Spanish Robbers 103

CHAPTER IX.

EXCURSION TO TOLEDO.

Illescas--The Puerta del Sol--Toledo--The Alcazar--The Cathedral--
The Gregorian and Mozarabic Ritual--Our Lady of Toledo--San Juan
de los Reyes--The Synagogue--Galiana, Karl, and Bradamant--The
Bath of Florinda--The Grotto of Hercules--The Cardinal's
Hospital--Toledo Blades 113

CHAPTER X.

MADRID TO GRANADA.

Procession of the Corpus Christi at Madrid--Aranjuez--A Patio Ocaña
and its Environs--Tembleque and its Garters--A Night at Manzanares--
Santa Cruz Knives--The Puerto de los Perros--Colony of
Carolina--Baylen--Jaen, its Cathedral and its Majos--Granada--The
Alameda--The Alhambra--The Generalife--The Albaycin--Life at
Granada--The Gitanos--The Carthusian Convent--Santo Domingo--
Ascent of the Mulhacen 144

CHAPTER XI.

FROM GRANADA TO MALAGA.

The Robbers and Cosarios of Andalusia--Alhama--Malaga--Travelling
Students--A Bull-Fight--Montes--The Theatre 208

CHAPTER XII.

FROM MALAGA TO SEVILLE.

Four-wheeled galera--Caratraca--The "Mayoral"--Ecija--The "Calle
de los Caballeros"--La Carlotta--Cordova--The Archangel Raphael--
The Mosque--Caliph Abderama--The Guadalquiver--Road to Seville 236

CHAPTER XIII.

SEVILLE.

Seville--The Cristina--The Torre del Oro--Italica--The Cathedral--
The Giralda--The Alcazar--The Caridad and Don Juan de Marana 258