Chapter XIV: From Cadiz to Barcelona--And Home (2)

The officers of health not having found that we brought any infectious disease with us, we were surrounded by small boats, and, in another quarter-of-an-hour, we were on shore. The effect produced by the appearance of the town is the strangest it is possible to conceive. By taking one step, you have your five hundred leagues, which is rather more than even Tom Thumb did in his famous boots. Just now you were in Andalusia, at the next moment you are in England. From the Moorish towns of Granada and Murcia, you suddenly alight at Ramsgate: you see brick-houses with their areas, their low doors, and their English windows, exactly like those at Twickenham or Richmond. If you go a little further, you will perceive cottages with their painted railings and gates. The public walks are planted with ash and birch trees, with elms and the green vegetation of the north, so different from those small plates of varnished metal which pass for foliage in southern climates. Englishmen have so strong an individuality that they are everywhere the same, and I really cannot understand why they travel, for they carry all their customs with them, and bear their houses on their backs exactly like snails. Wherever an Englishman may be, he lives precisely as he would do in London; he must have his tea, his rumpsteaks, his rhubarb pies, his porter, and his sherry, if he is well; and his calomel, if he is ill. By means of the innumerable packages he lugs about with him, the Englishman always enjoys his _home_ and his _comfort_, which are necessary to his existence. How many objects do our insular neighbours require in order to live--how much trouble do they give themselves to feel at their ease?--and how much do I prefer to all this complicated array, Spanish abstemiousness and privation! It was a very long time since I had seen a female with one of those horrible coal-scuttle affairs, one of those odious pasteboard cases covered with a slip of stuff, and called bonnets, in which the fair sex bury their faces, in so-styled civilized countries. I cannot express the disagreeable sensation I experienced at the sight of the first Englishwoman I met, with a bonnet and a green veil on her head; I seemed, all at once, to be placed face to face with the spectre of civilization, that mortal enemy of mine, and this apparition struck me as a sort of warning that my dream of vagabond liberty was at an end, and that I should soon be obliged once more to re-enter the mode of life of the nineteenth century, never to leave it again. Before this Englishwoman, I felt quite ashamed of having neither white kid gloves, eye-glass, nor patent leather shoes, and I cast an embarrassed glance on the extravagant embroidery of my sky-blue mantle. For the first time during six months, I felt that I was not presentable, and that I did not look like a gentleman.

At Gibraltar, which has become heretic since the English occupy it, there are a great number of Jews, who have either been driven away, or looked on with an evil eye by the Spanish, who, if they have no more religion, still possess superstition. They walk about the streets, displaying their hooked noses, thin lips, and yellow, polished foreheads surmounted by rabbinical caps, placed on the back of the head, and their threadbare, narrow, sombre-coloured robes. The Jewesses, who, by a singular privilege, are as beautiful as their husbands are hideous, wear picturesque black cloaks, bordered with scarlet and having hoods. Their appearance caused us to think vaguely of the Bible, of Rachel at the well, and the primitive scenes of the time of the patriarchs, for, like the women of all oriental races, they still preserve in their long black eyes and the golden tints of their complexions, the mysterious reflexion of a world that has now disappeared. There are, also, at Gibraltar, a great many natives of Morocco, as well as Arabs from Tangiers and the places along the coast: they have little shops, where they sell perfumery, silk sashes, slippers, fly-flappers, ornamented leathern cushions, and other knick-knacks of barbarous industry. As we wished to purchase a few trifles and curiosities, we were conducted to one of the principal dealers, who lived in the upper part of the town. We had to pass through a number of streets like staircases, which were less English in their character than the streets in the lower part of the town, and whence, at certain turnings, our eye glanced over the gulf of Algeciras, which was magnificently illuminated by the last rays of daylight. On entering the Morocco merchant's house, we were enveloped in a cloud of oriental perfumes: the sweet, penetrating odour of rose-water greeted our olfactory organs and made us think of the mysteries of the harem and the marvels of the _Thousand-and-One Nights_. The merchant's sons, two fine young men about twenty years of age, were seated on benches near the door, enjoying the coolness of the evening. They possessed that purity of features, that limpidity of look, that careless nobleness, and that air of amorous and pensive melancholy which belong to pure races. Their father had the grave, majestic look of a Magian king. We considered ourselves very ugly and mean-looking by the side of this solemn personage; and it was in the most humble tone, with hat in hand, that we asked him if he would deign to sell us a few pairs of yellow morocco slippers. He nodded affirmatively, and, on our observing that the price was rather high, he replied in Spanish, with great grandeur, "I never overcharge; such practices are only good for Christians." Thus our want of loyalty in commercial transactions renders us an object of contempt in the eyes of barbarous nations, who cannot understand that a man will perjure himself, in order to make a farthing or two more.

Having made our purchases, we went down again to the lower part of the rock, and took a stroll along a fine promenade planted with trees of northern climes, intermixed with flowers, sentinels, and guns, and where you meet with broughams and horsemen just as you do in Hyde Park. All that is wanting there is the statue of Achilles Wellington. This promenade is outside the town, at Europa Point, in the direction of the mountain inhabited by the monkeys. This is the only spot in Europe where these amiable quadrumanes live and multiply in a savage state. According as the wind changes, they pass from one side of the rock to the other, and thus serve as a barometer: every one is forbidden to kill them under very heavy penalties. As for myself, I saw none; but the temperature of the place is hot enough to allow the most chilly macacuses and cercopithecuses to fully develop themselves, without fires or air-stoves. Abyla, if we can believe its modern name, must delight, on the coast of Africa, in a similar population.

The next day we left this park of artillery and land of smuggling, to be wafted towards Malaga, with which place we were already acquainted, but which we had great pleasure in again beholding, with its white, slender lighthouse, and its harbour full of perpetual movement. Viewed from the sea, the cathedral looks larger than the town, and the ruins of the ancient Arab fortifications impart to the sloping rocks a most romantic effect. We returned to our inn of the Three Kings, and the pretty Dolores uttered a cry of joy on recognising us.

The next day we again embarked with a cargo of raisins; and, as we had lost some time, the captain resolved to pass by Ameria, and to go direct to Cartagena.

We kept close enough to the coast of Spain never to lose sight of it; but the coast of Africa had, in consequence of the widening of the Mediterranean, long since disappeared from the horizon. On one side, therefore, our view consisted of long rows of bluish cliffs, with curiously-formed steeps, full of perpendicular cracks, and marked, here and there, with white spots, announcing the presence of a little village, a watch-tower, or a custom-house officer's hut; and, on the other, of the boundless sea, now ruffled and goffered by the breeze or tide, now of a dull blue and dead colour, or as transparent as crystal, and then brilliant and undulating, like the basquina of a dancing-girl, while at other times it was opaque, oily, and as grey as mercury or melted lead; forming altogether a variety of tones, and assuming such various aspects as would throw any poet or painter into utter despair. A procession of red, white, and other light-coloured sails, of ships of every size and nation, enlivened the scene, and took away that melancholy which ever attends infinite solitude. A sea in which no sail is visible, is the most sad and dispiriting spectacle that any one can well behold. Fancy not one thought on so large an extent of space, not one soul to comprehend all the sublimity contained therein! And yet, only place one white and almost imperceptible speck on this fathomless and unbounded main, and its immensity will be peopled; it will then contain an interest, a drama.

Cartagena, which is called _Cartagena de Levante_, to distinguish it from Cartagena in America, is situated at the end of a bay, a sort of funnel of rocks, where ships find complete shelter from every wind. Its form has nothing picturesque about it; the deepest impressions produced on us there were made by two windmills, decorated with black drawings on a light sky-blue ground.

The aspect of Cartagena differs entirely from that of Malaga. Buried in its crown of bare and sterile rocks, which are as dry as the Egyptian hills of the ancient Pharaohs, Cartagena is as dull and grim as Malaga is gay, cheerful, and animated. You no longer see whitewashed walls, for they are all dark-coloured, and the windows are grated with a complication of iron-work; while the houses, still more ill-looking, possess that prison-like appearance which distinguishes all Castilian mansions. Yet, as we do not wish to fall into the error of that traveller who wrote in his note-book, "All the women at Calais are cross, red-haired, and hump-backed," because the landlady of his inn united in herself these three defects, we must own that we perceived at these barred windows none but charming features and angelic faces: it is perhaps on this account that they are grated so carefully. While waiting for dinner, we went to visit the naval arsenal, an establishment of the grandest proportions, but at present in a state of grievous dilapidation; its vast basins, its stocks and idle dockyards, in which another armada might be built, are used for nothing now. Two or three half-constructed hulls, looking like the stranded skeletons of so many cachelots, are rotting unheeded in a corner; thousands of crickets have taken possession of those large deserted vessels, and you cannot make a step without crushing some of them; the noise they make, too, with their little rattles, is so great, that you can hardly hear yourself speak. In spite of the love I profess to have for crickets, love which I have expressed both in prose and verse, I must frankly own that here there were somewhat too many for me.

From Cartagena, we went as far as the town of Alicant, of which I had mentally formed, from a verse in the _Orientale_ of Victor Hugo, a much too denticulated sketch:

"Alicante aux clochers mêle les minarets."

Now, Alicant would have much difficulty, at present at least, in bringing about this mixture, which I acknowledge as very desirable and picturesque, seeing, in the first place, that it has no minarets, and that the only steeple it possesses is a very low and far from important tower. What characterizes Alicant is an enormous rock, which rises in the middle of the town; and this rock, of a magnificent form and colour, is crowned with a fortress, and flanked with a watch-tower that was suspended over the abyss in the most audacious manner. The town-hall, or, to keep up the local colour, the palace of the _Constitucion_, is a delightful edifice, constructed in the best possible taste. The _Alameda_, paved throughout with stone, is shaded by two or three rows of trees, pretty well supplied with leaves for Spanish trees, of which the roots do not revel in a well. The houses rise high, and assume European forms. I saw two women wearing yellow brimstone-coloured bonnets--a menacing symptom. This is all I know of Alicant, where the boat only remained long enough to take in some freight and coal, and we profited by this stoppage to go and breakfast on shore. As may be imagined, we did not neglect the opportunity of making some conscientious experiments on the wine, which in spite of its incontestable authenticity, I did not find so good as I thought I should: this perhaps arose from the taste of pepper which had been imparted to it by the _bota_ in which it was contained. Our next stage was to take us to Valencia, _Valencia del Cid_, as the Spaniards say.

From Alicant to Valencia, the cliffs along the shore continue to rise in curious forms, and to assume unexpected appearances: our attention was called to the summit of a mountain, where there was a square chasm, which seemed as if it had been cut out by the hand of man. Towards morning, on the following day, we cast anchor before the Grao; this is the name given to the harbour and suburb of Valencia, which is at half a league's distance from the sea. The waves ran high, and when we arrived at the landing-place, we were pretty well sprinkled with sea water. There we took a tartan to go to the town. The word _tartan_ is generally taken in a maritime sense; but the tartan of Valencia is a case covered with oil-cloth, and placed on two wheels, without any springs whatever. This vehicle, compared to the _galeras_, seemed effeminately luxurious to us; and no fashionably-made carriage ever appeared more soft. We were quite surprised and embarrassed at being so comfortable. Large trees bordered our route, affording us a pleasure to which we had not been accustomed for some time.

With regard to picturesque appearance, Valencia corresponds pretty well with the notion formed of it from romances and chronicles. It is a large, flat, scattered town, laid out in a confused manner, and possesses none of those advantages that disorder in construction imparts to old towns built on hilly sites. Valencia is situated in a plain named the Huerta, in the midst of gardens and cultivated lands, where constant irrigation keeps everything cool and fresh--a very rare circumstance in Spain. The climate is so mild, that palm-trees and orange-trees grow in the open air by the side of products of the north. Valencia, therefore, carries on a great trade in oranges, which are measured by being passed through a ring, like cannon-balls when calibre is required to be known. Those which cannot pass constitute the choicest. The Guadalaviar, over which are five handsome stone bridges, and which is bordered by a superb promenade, runs by the side of the city, nearly beneath the ramparts. The frequent use made of its waters for irrigation render these five bridges mere objects of ornament for three-fourths of the year. The gate of the Cid, through which you pass to go to the promenade of the Guadalaviar, is flanked with large embattled towers, which produce a pretty good effect.

The streets of Valencia are narrow, and bordered with high houses of a sullen aspect, some of which still bear mutilated coats of arms; you can also perceive fragments of worn-out sculptures, chimeras without claws, women without noses, and knights without arms. A casement in the style of the Renaissance, but which is lost and imbedded in a frightful wall of recent workmanship, causes from time to time an artist to raise his eyes, and utter a sigh of regret; you must, however, look for such rare vestiges in obscure corners, and at the bottom of back-courts, for Valencia itself has quite a modern aspect. The cathedral, built in a style of hybrid architecture, possesses nothing, in spite of an apsis with a gallery furnished with Roman semicircular arches, which can attract the attention of the traveller after the wonders of Burgos, Toledo, and Seville. A few finely-sculptured altar-screens, a painting by Sebastian del Piombo, and another by Espagnoletto, executed in his softest style, when he was trying to imitate Correggio, are the only things worthy of remark. The other churches, though both numerous and rich, are built and decorated in that strange style of bad ornamentation of which we have already given a description several times. On beholding all these extravagances, you can but regret so much talent should have been thrown away on such subjects. _La Longa de Seda_ (purse of silk) on the market-place, is a delightful Gothic monument; the grand hall, the vaulted roof of which rests on rows of pillars with wreathed nervures of extreme lightness, presents an appearance of elegance and sprightliness rarely met with in Gothic architecture, which is in general more fitted to express melancholy than happiness. It is in the Longa that the fêtes and masked balls of the carnival take place. Before we have done speaking of the monumental buildings, let us say a few words about the ancient Convent of La Merced, where a great number of pictures have been collected, some mediocre, and the others, with very few exceptions, extremely bad. What delighted me more than anything else at La Merced, was a yard surrounded by a cloister, and planted with palm-trees, perfectly oriental by their size and beauty, and which shot up like spires through the limpid air.

The real attraction of Valencia, for a traveller, is its population; or, to speak more correctly, that of the Huerta which surrounds it. The Valencian peasants wear a costume of characteristic strangeness of appearance, which cannot have varied much since the invasion of the Arabs, and which differs very little from the present costume of the Moors of Africa. This costume consists of a shirt, of flowing drawers of coarse linen, kept up by a red sash, and of a green or blue velvet waistcoat, furnished with buttons made of small pieces of silver money; the legs are clothed in a sort of _knémides_ or leggings of white wool, with a blue border, which leave the knee and instep exposed to view. For shoes, they wear _alpargatas_, sandals of plaited cords, the soles of which are nearly an inch thick, and which are tied by ribbons like the buskins of the Greeks. Their heads are generally shaved in the oriental fashion, and they are nearly always enveloped in a handkerchief of a gaudy colour; and on this handkerchief is placed a little low-shaped hat, with a turned-up brim, and ornamented with velvet, silk tassels, spangles, and tinsel. A piece of motley-coloured stuff, called a _capa de muestra_, ornamented with rosettes of yellow ribbon, and which is thrown across the shoulder, completes this costume, full of nobleness and character. The Valencian keeps his money, his bread, his water-melon, and his _navaja_, in the corners of his café, which he arranges in a thousand different manners; it forms for him, at the same time, a wallet and a cloak. At present, we are only speaking, it must be remembered, of the full dress costume, of the holiday suit. On ordinary days, the Valencian keeps on hardly anything but his shirt and drawers; and then, with his enormous black whiskers, his sunburnt face, his fierce look, and his bronze-coloured arms and legs, he has quite the appearance of a Bedouin, especially if he undoes his handkerchief and exposes to view his bare head, looking as smooth and blue as a well-bearded chin just shaved. In spite of Spanish pretensions to catholicism, I shall always find much difficulty to bring myself to think that such stalwart fellows are not Mussulmans. It is probably, owing to this ferocious air, that the Valencians have obtained the name of bad people (_male gente_), by which they are designated in the other provinces of Spain. I was told a hundred times in the Huerta of Valencia, that when any one wanted to get rid of another person, it was not difficult to find a peasant who, for five or six douros, would undertake the business. This appears to me barefaced calumny. In the country I have often met with individuals delighting in a frightful expression of countenance, but they always saluted me with the greatest politeness. One evening, we lost our way, and we were near being compelled to sleep in the open air, as the gates of the city were closed when we arrived there; but nothing happened to us, although it had been dark for some time, and though Valencia and its environs were in a state of revolution.

By a singular contrast, the wives of these European Zabyles are pale and fair, _bionde e grassote_, as the women of Venice; they have a sweet, melancholy smile on their lips, and a tender look in their blue eyes; it would be impossible to conceive a stronger contrast. These dark demons of the paradise of the Huerta have fair angels for their wives, whose beautiful hair is kept in its place by a high-backed comb, or by long pins ornamented at the end by large silver or glass beads. Formerly, the Valencian women used to wear a lovely national costume, which resembled that of the women of Albania; but they have, unfortunately, cast it aside to make room for a frightful Anglo-French style of attire, for dresses with shoulder-of-mutton sleeves, and other abominations. It is worthy of remark that the women are always the first to quit the national costume; and almost the only persons in Spain who have preserved the ancient manner of dressing are the men of the lower classes. This want of discrimination with respect to costume in an essentially coquettish sex surprises us; but our astonishment ceases, when we reflect that women only possess the sentiment of fashion and not that of beauty. A woman will always think any wretched piece of rag lovely, if it is the height of fashion to wear this piece of rag.

We had now been at Valencia some nine or ten days, waiting for another steamer, for the weather had disorganized the regular departure of the boats, and had greatly interfered with all correspondence. Our curiosity was satisfied; and all we now thought of was returning to Paris, to again behold our parents, our friends, the dear boulevards, and the dear gutters; I even think--may Heaven forgive me!--that I cherished the secret desire of seeing a vaudeville; in a word, civilized life, which had been forgotten for the last six months, called imperiously for our return. We longed to read the daily papers, to sleep in our own beds, and had, besides, a thousand other Bœotian fancies. At length, a packet arrived from Gibraltar, and took us to Porte Vendres, after allowing us to visit Barcelona, where it stopped for a few hours. The aspect of Barcelona resembles that of Marseilles, and there is hardly any trace of the Spanish type about it; the edifices are large and regular, and, were it not for the immense blue velvet trousers and the ample red caps of the Catalonians, you would fancy yourself in a town of France. In spite of its Rambla, planted with trees, and its handsome straight streets, Barcelona appears somewhat cramped and stiff, like all towns which are too tightly laced in a doublet of fortifications.

The cathedral is very handsome, especially the interior, which is sombre, mysterious, and almost inspires you with fear.

The organ is of Gothic structure, and shuts with two large panels covered with paintings; a Saracen's head is making a frightful grimace beneath the pendentive which supports the organ. Beautiful lustres of the fifteenth century, full of open-worked figures like reliquaries, hang from the nervures of the roof. On leaving the church, you enter a fine cloister of the same epoch; its silence incites to reverie, and its half-ruined arcades are characterized by the greyish tints of the old buildings of the north. The _calle_ of _La Plateria_ (the goldsmith's art) dazzles the eyes by its shop-fronts and glass-cases, which sparkle with jewellery, especially with enormous ear-rings as large as small bunches of grapes, of a heavy and massive richness; and, though rather barbarously made, productive of a very majestic effect: they are principally bought by peasant-women in easy circumstances.

The next day we entered, at ten o'clock in the morning, the little bay at the end of which Porte Vendres rises. We were in France. And--must I own it?--on setting foot on the soil of my country, I felt my eyes fill with tears, not of joy, however, but of regret. The Vermilion Towers, the silvery tops of the Sierra Neveda, the rose-bays of the Generalife, the long, soft, limpid looks, the pink-blossom lips, the little feet and the little hands of the daughters of Spain, all came back to my mind so vividly, that it appeared to me that France, where, however, I was about to see my mother again, was a land of exile for me. My dream was over.

INDEX.

Abencerrages, Hall of the, Alhambra, 189, 190

Accident to the Correo Real, near Burgos, 47

Aceite, Puerta del, at Seville, 264

Adventure with robbers, 209

Aguadores and Aguadoras of Madrid, 79

Alameda, the, of Granada, 171, 172

Alcala de los Panaderos, 257

Alcantara, bridge of, at Toledo, 119

Alcazar, the, at Toledo, 119;
at Seville, 270, 271

Algives, Plaza de los, 179

Alhama, 212, 213

Alhambra, the, 177, 178;
the Zacatin and Plaza Nueva, 177;
the Gate of Justice, 178;
the Plaza de los Algives, 179;
the Patin de las Arrayanes of Alberca, or Mezouar, 180;
Hall of Ambassadors, 181-183;
the Tocador, 183;
Garden of Lindaraja, and Bath-room of the Sultana, 185, 186;
Hall of the Two Sisters, 186;
of Abencerrages, 186;
the Taza de los Leones, 187, 188

Alicant, 296, 297

Aloe-tree, 159

Altar, high, in the cathedral of Toledo, 124

Amistad, Fonda de la, at Madrid, 58

Andalusia, entrance to, by the Puerta de los Perros, 157

Anecdote of Spanish Robbers, 110-112;
of the Jews at Toledo, 134, 135;
of a Calesero, 200

Angoulême, 4;
frescoes at, 4

Aranjuez, royal residence of, 148

Architecture, usual style of, at Madrid, 85-87

Armeria, the, at Madrid, 93, 94;
in the Alhambra, 179

Arms, manufactory of, at Toledo, 141, 142

Aspect of Granada, 167

Astigarraga, inn at, 17;
supper at, 18, 19

Authors, Spanish dramatic, 235

Baile Nacional, at Vittoria, 23, 24;
at Malaga, 230

Banderillas, 68;
de fuego, 71

Banderilleros, the, 61-64

Baño de la Cava at Toledo, 137

Barcelona, the cathedral at, 301

Bath of Florinda at Toledo, 137, 138

Bathing in the Tagus at Toledo, 121-136

Bath-room of the Sultana, Alhambra, 184

Bautista, J., builder of the Escurial, 104

Baylen, 159;
the church, 160

Bayonne, 120

Bidassoa, bridge over the, 14

Billiard-playing at Madrid, 86

Berruguete, tomb of the Cardinal at Toledo, by, 140

Blades of Toledo, 141, 142

Blanca, Count de Florida, village founded by, 158

Boabdil, king, 179

Bordeaux, 6-10;
hotel touters at, 7;
the theatre, 8;
the grisettes, 8;
the cathedral, 8;
Tower of St. Michael, 8;
vault of Mummies, 9;
Hospice des Vieillards, 10;
the museum, 10;
the port, 10;
the theatre, 10

Bradamant and Galiana, legend of, 135, 136

Bridge of boats across the Guadalquiver at Seville, 263

Briones, Francisco, of Madrid, the picador, 223

Briviesca, village of, 26

Bucaros, and mode of using them, 89

Buen Retiro, palace at Madrid, 94

Bull, the, in the arena at Madrid, 67-69

Bull-fight, description of a, at Madrid, 57-73;
at Malaga, 221-229;
at Jeres, 284-288

Burgos, 27-45;
public place at, 27;
romantic appearance of the beggars at, 27;
the convicts, 27;
the fonda, 28;
fountain, 29;
the cathedral, 30-41;
the Puerta de Santa Maria, 41, 42;
Cartuja de Miraflores, 42-45;
General Thibaud and the Cid's bones, 45

Cacin, 212

Cadiz, 277-282;
the Calle San Francisco, 277;
appearance of the town, 278;
Plaza de Toros, 279; ramparts, 279;
the _Voltigeur_, 280, 281;
Cadiz from the sea, 282

Calderon de la Barca and his plays, 232

Calesero, the, 143

Calle d'Alcala at Madrid, 60

Calle de Carretas at Madrid, 60

Calle de Parragas at Granada, 165

Calle de los Caballeros at Ecija, 242

Campeador (_see_ Cid)

Caramanchel, village of, 114

Caratraca, 238

Carbon, Puerta del, at Seville, 264

Cardinal's Hospital at Toledo, 140, 141

Caridad, Hospital de la, at Seville, 272

Cartagena de Levante, 295, 296

Carthusian Convent, Cartuja de Miraflores, 27;
visit to, 42, 44;
at Granada, 194, 195

Carvings in wood and stone in Burgos Cathedral, 30, 31, 38;
the Passion of our Lord, stone carving by Philip of Burgundy, 35;
stalls of Burgos Cathedral, 35, 36

Casa del Cordon at Burgos, 41

Casa de Pupilos at Granada, 164

Castil de Peones, village of, 26

Cathedral of Bordeaux, 8;
of Burgos, 30-41;
of Toledo, 119-125;
of Jaen, 160, 161;
at Seville, 265-270;
of Barcelona, 301

Cellini, Benvenuto, statue of the Escurial attributed to, 109

Cervesa de Santa Barbara con limon, 82

Chains at San Juan de los Reyes, at Toledo, 131

Charlemagne and Galiana, legend of, 135, 136

Charles III., statue of, at Burgos, 27

Château Regnault, 2

Châtellerault, 3

Chulos at Madrid, 61-64

"Christ on the Cross," at Burgos, 31

Cid, the, his chest at Burgos, 32, 33;
his bones, 45

Coffee-houses at Madrid, 81-83

Cormana, 257

Cordova, 246-255;
magnificent gateway, 246;
appearance of Cordova, 247;
Mosque at Cordova, 249-254;
the Foundling Hospital, 255;
the Guadalquiver, 255

Cork-tree, the, 11

Cormana, 257

Cornelio, the Cicerone of the Escurial, 107

Correo Real, el, the Spanish diligence, 49

Costume of the ladies at Madrid, 75, 78, 90;
of the men, 79;
of the peasants of Andalusia, 162;
of the inhabitants of Granada, 167-169

Court of Lions, Alhambra, 185-189

Covarubias, builder of the Alcazar at Toledo, 119

Crickets kept in cages at Madrid, 83

Cristina, the, at Seville, 261

Cubzac, Bridge of, 6

Dances, national, aversion to among the higher classes, 92

Dangers of the Spanish roads, 210, 211

Darro, the, at Granada, 168

Dax, 11

Depopulation of Spain, 54

Diez, Matilde, the actress, 232

Dogs used at bull-fights, 71, 72

Dome of the Escurial, 109

Dos de Mayo, monument to the victims of the, at Madrid, 93

Drama, Spanish, its utter decline, 232, 233

Dramatic authors, Spanish, 255

Dueñas, 50

Duque, the Alameda del, at Seville, 260, 261

Eagles on the Sierra Nevada, 204

Ecija, 241, 242

Encampment on the mountains, 205, 206

Environs of Madrid, 147; of Malaga, 218;
of Cadiz, 278

Equipages at Madrid, 74

Ernani, town of, 19

Escopeteros, 14

Escurial, visit to the, 103-112;
foundation of the building by Philip II., 104;
its gloomy appearance, 104;
formed like a gridiron in honour of St. Lawrence, 105;
curious colour of the walls, 105, 106;
the courtyard and church, 106, 107;
the blind cicerone Cornelio, 107;
the Pantheon, 107, 108;
the sacristy, 108;
the library, 108, 109;
marble figure of Christ, attributed to Benvenuto Cellini, 109;
the dome, 109

Espada or Matador, the, 64, 69, 70

Exchange, the, at Seville, 270

Excitement of spectators at a bull-fight, 71-73

Extortion at Spanish inns, 238, 239

Fan, the, universally used in Spain, 75, 76

Farmhouse hospitality, 241

_Fire_ sold at Madrid, 81

Florinda's Bath at Toledo, 137, 138

Fonda San Estaban at Bayonne, 12;
at Castile, 28;
de la Amistad at Madrid, 58;
del Caballero at Toledo, 116, 117

Fountain with statue of our Saviour at Burgos, 29;
at Madrid, 80-97;
of Lions, Alhambra, 186-188

Francisco, Calle San, 277

Frescoes at Angoulême, 4

Furniture of Spanish houses, 88

Galera, the Spanish, 49

Galiana's Palace at Toledo, 134, 135

Garbanzo, the, 19

Gaspacho, or cold garlic soup, 216, 217, 241

Gateway at Cordova, 276

Gatien, St., at Tours, 3

Generalife, the, near the Alhambra, 189

Gibraltar, 291-295

Gitanos and Gitanas at Granada, 193, 194;
at Seville, 265

Gomeles, Calle de los, at Granada, 169

Goya, Francisco, his works and life, 95-102

Granada, 164-207;
Fonda del Comercio, 164;
Louis the cicerone, 164, 165;
the Calle de Parragas, 165;
view of the Alhambra, 166;
the Darro, 166;
general aspect of Granada, 167;
the inhabitants, 167, 168;
picturesque costumes of the peasantry, 169;
the Spanish tailor, 170;
the Alameda, 171;
the Xenil, 171;
Tertulias, 173;
the Zacatin, 177;
the Alhambra, 177-192;
the Gitanos and Gitanas, 192, 193;
Monte Sagrado, the Carthusian convent, 194, 195;
Monastery of San Juan de Dios, 195, 196;
Convent of San Geronimo, 196;
Convent of San Domingo, 196, 197;
baths of Granada, 197, 198;
Society at Granada, 198-201;
ascent of the Mulhacen, 201-207

Gregorian and Mozarabic rituals, 126, 127

Guadarrama, 57

Guadalquivir, the, 160, 257, 262, 274-276

Guevara, dramatic author, 232

Guilhen de Castro, dramatic author, 233

Guzman, Antonio, the actor, 91

Hall of Ambassadors, in the Alhambra, 181-183;
of the two Sisters, 185

Harvest and harvest carts, 150

Heat of the weather at Madrid, 89;
at Toledo, 117;
at Ocaña, 149

Heaths near Valladolid, 53

Hercules, the French, at Vittoria, 23

---- grotto of, at Toledo, 138-140

Hernani, ou l'Honneur Castillan, 53

Herrera, builder of the Escurial, 105

Homenaga, the tower of, in the Alhambra, 179

Horses of Andalusia, 207

Hospice des Vieillards, at Bordeaux, 10

Hospital, Foundling, at Cordova, 256

Host, unwillingness of the people to worship the, 146

Houses, underground, near Vendôme, 2;
at Toledo, 118;
at Ecija, 243

Iced drinks--bebidas heladas, 81, 82

Illescas, town of, 115;
Moorish remains near, 115

Impartiality of the Spanish public, 226

Inns, Spanish, extortion at, 238

Irun and its bridge, 13

Isle of Pheasants, 13

Jaen, city of, the cathedral, 161-163

Jarras, for cooling water, 87, 88

Jeres, bull-fights, ridiculous and tragical episodes, 284-288

Jewish synagogue at Toledo, 133

Juan, Don, de Marana, founder of an hospital at Seville, 272

Juan Eugenio Hartzembusch, the author, 229

Juliano, count, father of Florinda, 137

Justice, the gate of, in the Alhambra, 178

La Carlotta, road from Ecija to, 243;
the inn, treachery of our hosts, 244, 245

La Guardia, town of, 151

Ladies of Madrid, 75, 76

Lady, our, of Toledo, 129

Landes, the, 4;
desolate appearance of, 11

Lanza the cosario, 208

Legend of our Lady of Toledo, 121, 122;
of Galiana's palace, 135, 136;
of Florinda's bath at Toledo, 137, 138;
of Rodriguez and the Moors, 138-140

Library of the Escurial, 108, 109

Lindaraja, garden of, in the Alhambra, 184

Longa, or Exchange, at Seville, 270

Lope de Vega, the author, 233

Los Perros, Puerto de, 156

Louis, the cicerone of Granada, 164, 165

Lucar, San, on the Guadalquiver, 276

Luna, Don Alvar de, chapel of, at Toledo, 125

Lyceum, the, at Granada, 198

Madrid, 57-102;
approach to the city--arid scenery, 57;
Puerta de Hierro, 58;
Fonda de la Amistad, 58;
bull-fight, description of, 57-73;
the matador or espada, 59;
the Calle de Carretas, 60;
the Calle d'Alcala, 60;
Calesins, 60;
Manolas and Manolos, 60, 77, 78;
the Plaza de Toros and Toril, 60, 61;
chulos, banderilleros, picadores, and aficionados, 61;
interior arrangement of the arena, costume of the actors, &c., 62-65;
Sevilla the picador, 65, 66;
the bull, 67-69;
Juan Pasta, the espada, 69, 70;
the spectators and their excitement, 71-73;
the Prado, 73;
equipages of Madrid, 74;
ladies of Madrid--the mantilla and fan, 75, 76;
the Spanish type, 77;
costume of the men, 79;
trade in water and fire, 79-81;
the Manzanares, 80;
coffee-houses--the Bolsa, the Café Nuevo, Café del Levante, &c., 81,
83;
iced drinks--the bebida de naranja, de limon, de fresa de guindas,
&c., 81, 82;
quesitos, little ices, 82;
newspapers in the coffee-houses, 83;
the Puerta del Sol, 83;
the post-office, 83-85;
cigars, 84;
political conversation, 84;
the houses at Madrid, 85-87;
billiards, 86;
Spanish preserves, 86;
jarras for cooling water, 87;
heat at Madrid, 89;
Bucaros, 89;
parties, or tertulias, 89, 90;
morals, 90, 91;
deference paid to women, 91;
the Teatro del Principe, 91, 92;
Spanish dancers and dancing, 92;
the queen's palace, 92;
the meeting of the Cortes, 93;
monument to the victims of the Dos de Mayo, 93;
the Armeria, 93;
carriages of Joanna of Aragon and of Charles V., 93;
fountains, 94;
bridge of Toledo, 94;
the Buen Retiro and its fantastic gardens, 94;
the museum, 95;
cabinet of Natural History and pictures--Goya and his works, 95-102

Maïquez, funeral column in memory of, 171

Majos, the, 162;
at Granada, 169

Malaga, 219-236;
Negro galley-slaves, 219;
parador of the three kings, 219, 220;
travelling students, 220;
Circus at Malaga, 221;
beauty of the Spanish women, 221-223;
national airs, 223;
the picadores Antonio Sanchez, Jose Trigo, and Francisco Briones,
223;
Montes and Jose Parra, the matadores, 224, 225;
the Napoleon of the herd--failure of Montes, 227, 228;
rage of the populace, 228, 229;
the theatre, 229, 230;
the dancers, 230-232;
theatres and dramatic authors in Spain, 232-234

Manners of the Spaniards, 90, 91, 198-201

Manolas and manolos at Madrid, 60, 77-78

Mantilla, the, worn at Madrid, 76, 170

Manzanares, the town of, 153

Mastodon, bones of, in the museum at Madrid, 95

Mayoral, the Spanish stage-coachman, 46

Media Luna, used at bull-fights, 285

Michael, St., tower of, at Bordeaux, 8

Miguel Cervantes, statue of, at Madrid, 93

Miquelets, or gendarmes, 212

Miranda, 24

Mondragon, village of, 20

Montalban, dramatic author, 232

Montes, the Espada, 208, 224-229

Mosque at Cordova, 249-254

Monument to Charles the Fifth at Granada, 178

Mountains near Olmedo, 55

Mozarabic chapel at Toledo, 125

Mules, Spanish 14, 46, 47;
their obstinacy, 210, 214

Muleta, the, 69

Mulhacen, ascent of the, 201-207

Mummified corpses in St. Michael's Tower, 8, 9

Murillo, his "Ecce Homo" at Burgos, 31;
beautiful paintings by, at Seville, 272

Museum at Bordeaux, 10;
at Madrid, 95

Napoleon, the, of the herd, 226-228

Navajas, knives sold at Santa Cruz and Albacete, 155

Negro galley-slaves at Malaga, 219;
killed at a bull-fight at Jeres, 288

Nevada, Sierra, 160;
ascent of, 201, 207;
intense cold on the, 206

Novel baths at Granada, 197, 198

Nueva, Plaza, at Granada, 177

Ocaña, 149

Ocean, the steamer, at Jeres, 288, 289

Olmedo, 54; deserted appearance of, 52

Orchaterias de Chufas at Madrid, 82

Organs in Burgos Cathedral, 39;
at Barcelona, 301

Oyarzun, 17

Palace, the Queen's, at Madrid, 92, 93

Pantheon, the, in the Escurial, 107, 108

Pancorbo, Pass of, 25;
romantic appearance of, 25

Parador, the, at Jaen, 161;
at Malaga, 219

Pasiega, the Spanish Nurse, 54;
at Madrid, 78

Passion of our Lord, stone-carving, 35

Pasta, Juan, the Espada, 69, 70

Patio, the, 149;
de los Arrayanes, 180

Picadores, 61, 63, 64;
Sevilla, the, 65-69;
Rodriguez, the, 66-68

Pictures by Murillo, Jordaens, Theotocopuli, Delacroix, and others, in
the Cathedral of Burgos, 31, 32-34;
the Holy Family in Burgos Cathedral, 39;
Martyrdom of Santa Casilda, 40;
Collection in a Church at Valladolid, 51;
Pictures by Raphael, Titian, Paolo Veronese, Rubens, Velasquez,
Murillo, and others, in the Museum at Madrid, 95;
in the Cabinet of Natural History, works of El Greco, Murillo, and
Goya, 95-102;
of Velasquez, Maella, and others, in the Palace at Madrid, 92;
works of Titian, Raphael, Paolo Veronese, &c., in the Museum at
Madrid, 95;
works of Murillo, Ribeira, and Goya, in the Academy, 95-102;
in the sacristy of the Escurial, 108;
by El Greco, at Toledo, 140, 141;
by Murillo, at Seville, 272

Pine-trees in the Landes, 11

Plaza de Toros at Madrid, 60, 61

Politicians of Madrid, 84, 85

Portraits (_see_ Pictures).

Posada, the Spanish, 26;
near Olmedo, 55;
at Jaen, 162

Post-office at Madrid, 85

Prado, the, at Madrid, 73

Preserves, Spanish, 86, 87

Priests, Spanish, 20

Procession of the Corpus Christi at Madrid, 145, 146

Puchero, the Spanish national dish, 18, 19

Puerta de Santa Maria at Burgos, 41;
de Hierro at Madrid, 57;
Del Sol at Madrid, 83, 84;
Del Sol at Toledo, 115

Puerto Lapiche, 152

Pyrenees, the, 12, 16

Quails kept in cages at Madrid, 83

Quebrada, tower of, 179

Quevedo, dramatic author, 282

Quintanapalla, village of, 26

Ravine of Los Molinos, 189, 190

Road from Valez-Malaga to Malaga, 217

Road to Jeres, 283

Robbers, anecdote of Spanish, 110-112;
adventures with, 209;
their position in Spain, 235, 236

Rodrigo, archbishop of Toledo, lays the first stone of the cathedral,
123

Rodriguez, Antonio, the picador, 66-68

Rojas, dramatic authors, 232

Roman amphitheatre at Toledo, 142

Romea, Julian, the actor, 91

Romero, Alexandro, the huntsman's guide, 201

Rueda, dramatic author, 232

Ruins of fortifications near Baylen, 160

Ruins of Italica, near Seville, 263, 264

Sacristy, the, in the Escurial, 108

Sagrado, Monte, at Granada, 194

Saint Jean de Luz, 13

Saint Louis, Reliquary of, at Toledo, 127

San Domingo, Granada, 197

San Juan de los Reyes, at Toledo, 119, 130-133

San Juan de Dios, Convent of, 195, 196

Salinas, hill of, 20

Santa Cruz, 155

Santa Maria de los Nieves, 55

Sanchez, Antonio of Seville, the picador, 223

Saynete, a comic piece, at Malaga, 230, 231

Servant-girls, Spanish, 28

Sevilla the picador, 65-67, 72, 73

Seville, 258-273;
general appearance of the city, 258, 259;
beauty of the women, 259;
their little feet, 260;
the Alameda del Duque, 260, 261;
the Cristina, 261;
the Guadalquiver, and the Torre del Oro, 261, 262;
Murillos at Seville, 263;
Bridge of Boats, 263;
Ruins of Italica, 263, 264;
the Puerta de Triana, 264;
Puertas del Carbon and del Aceite, 264;
Gitanas, 265;
the cathedral, 265-270;
the Lonja or Exchange, 270;
the Alcazar, 270, 271;
tobacco manufactory, 271, 272;
the Cigarera of Seville, 272;
Hospital de la Caridad, founded by Don Juan de Marina, 272;
beautiful paintings by Murillo, 272;
the circus, 273

Sierra Morena, the, 155-157

Siesta, the, 149

Smuggling, human, 13

Soldiers, Spanish, their contentment and good-humour, 151

Spires of the cathedral of Toledo, 129, 130

Stalls in Burgos Cathedral, 35, 36

Students singing in the streets, 220

Suspiro del Moro, el, 179

Synagogue, the Jewish, at Toledo, 133

Tailor, the, of Granada, 169, 170

Tarifa, and the African coast, 296

Tagus, the, at Toledo, 119, 120

Tauromachia, school of, at Seville, 273

Tembleque, 151, 152

Temperance of the Spaniards, 148

Tertulias, or parties, at Madrid, 89, 90;
at Granada, 173-176

Theatre at Bordeaux, 10;
at Burgos, 42;
at Valladolid, 52-55;
Teatro del Principe at Madrid, 91;
at Malaga, 229-233

Thibaut, General, and the Cid's bones, 45

Tirso, dramatic author, 232

Tizona, the Cid's sword, 45

Tobacco, manufactory of, at Seville, 271, 272

Tocador, the, in the Alhambra, 183, 184

Toledo, 115-143;
the Alcazar, 119;
the cathedral, 119-125;
the Gregorian and Mozarabic ritual, 125-127;
Our Lady of Toledo, 128, 129;
San Juan de los Reyes, 130-133;
the synagogue, 133, 134;
Galiana, Karl, and Bradamant, 134-136;
the bath of Florinda, 136-138;
the grotto of Hercules, 138-140;
the cardinal's hospital, 140, 141;
Toledo blades, 141

Tolosa, 19

Tomb of the cardinal at Toledo, 140

Toril, the, at Madrid, 61

Toros, Plaza de, at Cadiz, 279

Torre del Oro, the, at Seville, 261

Torrents near Oyarzun, 17;
near Olmedo, 55

Torrequemada, town of, 47, 48

Tours, bridge of, 3

Travelling students singing for money at Malaga, 220

Triana, Puerta de, at Seville, 264

Trigo, Jose, of Seville, the picador, 223

Urrugne, 42

Val-de-Peñas and its vineyards, 154, 155;
name signifying "Valley of Stones", 155

Valencia, 297-299

Valencianos, 56

Valez-Malaga, 216

Valladolid, 50-53;
San Pablo, 50, 51;
collection of pictures, 51;
Museum, 51, 52;
Plaza de la Constitucion, 52;
Compo Grande, 52;
Theatre, 52, 53

Vase of the Alhambra, 181

Vela, tower of, in the Alhambra, 179

Vendres Porte, 301

Venta de Trigueros, 50

Vergara, 19, 20

Virgin, chapel of the, at Toledo, 127

Visit to a Morocco merchant at Gibraltar, 296, 297

Vista Allegro, Fonda de, 283

Vittoria, 21-24;
the Parador vejo, 21;
the Church, 22;
the Theatre, Baile Nacional, and the French Hercules, 23, 24

_Voltigeur_, visit to the brig, 280, 281

Wagons drawn by oxen, 5, 15

Wardrobe of Our Lady of Toledo, 129

Water, sale of, at Madrid, 79, 80

Water-melon, the, 213;
refreshing qualities of, 213

Women, number of old, in Old Castile, 26;
of Madrid, 75, 76;
beauty of the women of Malaga, 221;
of those of Seville, 259, 260

Zacatin, the 177

Zagal, the Spanish, 15

THE END.

Savill & Edwards, Printers, Chandos Street, Covent Garden.

FOOTNOTES:

[1] This work corresponds to "The Heads of the People," published, some time since, in London.--TRANSLATOR.

[2] _Culotté_ is the term applied by smokers to a pipe coloured by long use.--TRANSLATOR.

[3] The well-known popular source of amusement to the Parisian pleasure-seeker of days now past.

[4] The hangman.

[5] £800 or £1000.

[6] Philippe d'Orléans.

[7] The _Temple_ in Paris is a sort of large market where old clothes are sold, something like what Monmouth-street used to be.

[8] Eighty degrees Fahrenheit. The author here, as well as all through his works reckons the degree of heat by the thermometer termed "Centigrade."

[9] The song says, "her arms,"--_los brazos_.

[10] A brigand is said to receive the benefit of the _indulto_ when he voluntarily gives himself up and is pardoned.

TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE

Italic text is denoted by _underscores_.

Obvious typographical errors and punctuation errors have been
corrected after careful comparison with other occurrences within
the text and consultation of external sources.

Five occurrences of omitted names, indicated by '* * *' in the
original text, have been replaced by '----'.

The 'Frontispiece' noted in the list of 'Illustrations' is missing
from this edition of the book.

Except for those changes noted below, all misspellings in the text,
and inconsistent or archaic usage, have been retained. For example,
court-yard, courtyard; bull-fights, bullfights; Sierra Nevada,
Sierra Neveda; torreros, toreros; asphaltic; heroical; ideality;
whipt; stopt; unsimilar.

Pg iv, 'Puerto del Sol' replaced by 'Puerta del Sol'.
Pg v, 'los Cabelleros' replaced by 'los Caballeros'.
Pg 3, 'and De Balzac' replaced by 'and de Balzac'.
Pg 3, 'long orgie' replaced by 'long orgy'.
Pg 5, 'Eginetic' replaced by 'Elginetic'.
Pg 14, 'at Listz's concert' replaced by 'at Liszt's concert'.
Pg 14, 'escopoteros' replaced by 'escopeteros'.
Pg 15, 'escopoteros' replaced by 'escopeteros' (twice).
Pg 16, 'Biaritz' replaced by 'Biarritz'.
Pg 19, 'and succeds but' replaced by 'and succeeds but'.
Pg 21, 'escopoteros' replaced by 'escopeteros'.
Pg 29, 'bezil of a ring' replaced by 'bezel of a ring'.
Pg 32, 'these portaits' replaced by 'these portraits'.
Pg 54, 'exactly to canvass' replaced by 'exactly to canvas'.
Pg 64, 'which they unrol' replaced by 'which they unroll'.
Pg 92, 'chorographic portions' replaced by 'choreographic portions'.
Pg 113, 'Puerto del Sol' replaced by 'Puerta del Sol'.
Pg 116, 'del Cabellero' replaced by 'del Caballero'.
Pg 139, 'cartouch' replaced by 'cartouche'.
Pg 152, 'same reputatation' replaced by 'same reputation'.
Pg 182, 'Arabian caligraphy' replaced by 'Arabian calligraphy'.
Pg 190, 'the aloes opens' replaced by 'the aloe opens'.
Pg 190, 'it knotty wood' replaced by 'its knotty wood'.
Pg 190, 'modern belvidere' replaced by 'modern belvedere'.
Pg 204, 'Romeros decided' replaced by 'Romero decided'.
Pg 210, 'to distingush' replaced by 'to distinguish'.
Pg 212, 'Son tuo labios' replaced by 'Son tus labios'.
Pg 212, 'Entre cortena' replaced by 'Entre cortina'.
Pg 217, 'aloes-trees' replaced by 'aloe-trees'.
Pg 218, 'aloes-trees' replaced by 'aloe-trees'.
Pg 218, 'afficionados' replaced by 'aficionados'.
Pg 234, 'subtilties' replaced by 'subtleties'.
Pg 235, 'Esprouceda' replaced by 'Espronceda'.
Pg 238, 'in Britanny' replaced by 'in Brittany'.
Pg 244, 'with our mattrass' replaced by 'with our mattress'.
Pg 252, 'Herman Riuz' replaced by 'Hernán Ruiz'.
Pg 257, 'aficienados' replaced by 'aficionados'.
Pg 257, 'superb aquaduct' replaced by 'superb aqueduct'.
Pg 264, 'del Accite' replaced by 'del Aceite'.
Pg 270, 'Santi-Pouer' replaced by 'Santi-Pouce'.
Pg 273, 'norillos' replaced by 'novillos'.
Pg 287, 'cameleons' replaced by 'chameleons' (twice).
Pg 291, 'monstrous monolinth' replaced by 'monstrous monolith'.
Pg 297, 'as if had' replaced by 'as if it had'.
Pg 298, 'romances and chrocles' replaced by 'romances and chronicles'.

Index:
Accite: replaced by 'Aceite'.
Briores: replaced by 'Briones'.
Calle de Caritas: replaced by 'Calle de Carretas'.
Calle de Parragos: replaced by 'Calle de Parragas'.
Cervesa: replaced by 'Cerveza'.
Gomelos: replaced by 'Gomeles'.
Hospital: 'Cardova' replaced by 'Cordova'.
Lindaraga: replaced by 'Lindaraja'.
Madrid: 'bebida de Naranga' replaced by 'bebida de naranja'.
Rogas: replaced by 'Rojas'.
Ruins: 'fortificatinos' replaced by 'fortifications'.
Salinos: replaced by 'Salinas'.
Seville: 'Puerta de Triana;' replaced by 'Puerta de Triana, 264;'.
Seville: 'del Accite' replaced by 'del Aceite'.
Suspire del Mora: replaced by 'Suspiro del Moro'.
Women: 'Old Castille' replaced by 'Old Castile'.

End of Project Gutenberg's Wanderings in Spain, by Théophile Gautier