Chapter XLVI: Sketches in Bengal—the Sunderbands

1836, _December 9th._

Toll at Jungipūr—Bengālee Women—Palace of the
Nawāb of Moorshadabad—Mor-pankhī—Snake Boats—Kāsim
Bazār—Berhampūr—Cintra Oranges—Cutwa Cloth—Culna—The
Timber Raft—Chandar-nagar—Sholā Floats—The
Hoogly—Chinsurah—Barrackpūr—Serampūr—Corn Mills—The
Shipping—Chandpaul Ghāt—River Fakīrs—M. le Général
Allard—Assam Leaf-insect—The Races—Kalī Mā’ī—Dwarkanath
Tagore—The Foot of a Chinese Lady—Quitted Calcutta—The
Steamer and Flat—The Sunderbands—Mud Islands—Tigers—The
Wood-cutters—Kaloo-rayŭ—Settlements—Culna—Commercolly—
Rājmahal—Monghir—Coolness of a Native—Pleasures of Welcome—The
Vaccine Department—The Gaja Rājā performs Pūja as a Fakīr—The
Eclipse—The Plague—The Lottery—Conversations in the Zenāna—The
Autograph—Delicacy of Native Ladies—Death of the King of
Oude—The Padshah Begam—Moona Jāh—The King’s Uncle Raised to
the Throne 97

CHAPTER XLVII.

RADHA KRISHNŬ—SPORTING IN ASSAM.

1837, _August_.

Festival of the Birthday of Krishnŭ—The Rās—The
Rākhī—Krishnŭ or Kaniyā—Sports of the Gopīs—The Elephant—The
Horse—Gopalŭ—Gopī Nat’hŭ—Radha Krishnŭ—Krishnŭ destroying the
Serpent—Monotony of Life in India—The Holy Monkey—Sporting in
Assam—Buffalo Shooting—Tiger Hunting on Foot—The Baghmars—The
Spring-bow—An Earthquake—Risk of Life in the Bhagmar
Department—The Burying-Ground at Goalparah 116

CHAPTER XLVIII.

THE FAMINE AT KANAUJ.

1837, _August_.

Partiality of the Natives for English Guns—Solitary
Confinement—The Nawāb Hakīm Menhdī—Bad Omens—A Slight
Mistake—Bhūsā—The Padshah Begam and Moona-jah—The Bāiza
Bā’ī visits a Steamer—Arrival of Lord Auckland—Visit of
the Governor-General and the Hon. the Misses Eden to her
Highness the ex-Queen of Gwalior—A March up the Country—The
Camp at Fathīpūr—The Line of March—Death of the Nawāb Hakīm
Menhdī—The Heir-apparent of Oude gives a Breakfast to
the Governor-General—H. R. H. Prince Henry of Orange and
the Misses Eden visit Lucnow—Resignation of Sir Charles
Metcalfe—Chobīpūr—Thieves—Urowl—The Famine—The Pilgrim buys
a Cocky-olli Bird—Merunkee Sarā’e—Ancient Hindū Ruin at
Kanauj—Famine in the Bazār—Interment of Mahadēo and Pārvatī—The
Legend of Kanauj 134

CHAPTER XLIX.

THE HINDU TRIAD.

The 330,000,000 Gods of the Hindū Pantheon—The
Janéo—Brŭmhŭ—The Trinity—Brahma—Vishnŭ—Shivŭ—The Ten
Avatars—The Fish—The Tortoise—The Boar—The Man-lion—Vamana the
Dwarf—Parashu-Rāma—Rāma-Chandra—Bala-Rāma—Booddhŭ—Kalkī—
Krishnŭ—Radha—Rukmeni—Jagana’th—Kama-deva—Mahadēo—Pārvatī—
Gănésh—Kartikeya—Lachhmī—Saraswatī—Durgā—Satī—The Purānas—The
Mundane Egg of the Hindūs—The Vedas—Ascension of
the God Buddha 147

CHAPTER L.

PLEASANT DAYS IN CAMP.

1838, _January 8th._

Jellalabad—Menhdī Bridge—The Resident of Gwalior—Difficulty
of Crossing the Sands of the Ganges—Imrutpūr—Marching under
the Flag of the Resident of Gwalior—Khāsgunge—The Tombs
of Colonel Gardner and his Begam—Mulka Begam—Style of
March—Pleasure of a Life in Tents—The Fort of Alligarh—The
Racers—The 16th Lancers present a Shield to Mr. Blood—The
Monument—The Kos-Minār—Koorjah and Solitude—Meeting of Old
Friends—Meerut—The Officers of the Artillery give a Ball to the
Governor-General and his Party—The Sūraj Kūnd—The Buffs add to
the Gaiety of the Station—The Artillery Theatre—The Pilgrim Tax
abolished at Allahabad 182

CHAPTER LI.

RUINS OF DELHI.

1838, _February_.

Happiness of being alive—March from Meerut to Delhi—Method
of Stealing a Camel—Delhi—The Church—Monument erected to
William Frazer, Esq., B.C.S.—The Canal of Paradise—Mimic
Warfare—Tomb of Humaioon—Fort of Feroze Shāh—Masjid of Zeenut
al Nissa—Masjid of Roshan-ool-Dowla—Datisca Cannabina—Mimosa
Scandens—Washing by Steam—The Kutab Minār—Ancient
Colonnades—Kutab kí Lāt—Unfinished Minār 191

CHAPTER LII.

ANCIENT DELHI—THE ZENĀNA GHĀR.

1838, _February 22nd._

Ancient Delhi—The Bā’olī—Tombs of Shah’ālam, Bahādur Shah,
and Akbar Shah—The Zenāna Ghār—Extent of the Ruins—The
Observatory—Palace of Shāhjahānabad—The Zenāna—Hyat-ool-Nissa
Begam—Poverty of the Descendants of Tamurlane—The Effect
of a Zenāna Education on Man and Woman—Death of Prince
Dara Bukht—The Dewanī Am—The Dewanī Khas—The Palace—The
Shah-burj—Gardens of Shalimar—Ruins of Palaces and Baths—The
Modern City—Tees Huzzari Bagh—The Madrissa—The Jama Masjid—The
Kala Masjid—Plan of the City of Delhi—Quitted Delhi, and
returned to Meerut—Tomb of Pīr Shah 207

CHAPTER LIII.

DEPARTURE FOR THE HILLS—LANDOWR.

1838, _March 16th._

First View of the Snowy Ranges—Saharanpūr—Mohunchaukī—An
Adventure—The Keeree Pass—Rajpūr—Motī—The Gūnth—Hill-men—A
Jampan—Ascent to Landowr—Hill Flowers—Purity of the Air—View of
the Himalaya—The Khuds—Mussoorī—Rhododendron Trees—Mr. Webb’s
Hotel—Curious Soap—The Landowr Bazār—Schools in the Hills—Cloud
End—The White Rhododendron—Storm in the Hills—Hill Birds—Fever
in the Hills—Newlands—Death of Major Blundell 224

CHAPTER LIV.

PICTURESQUE SCENES IN THE HILLS.

1838, _April 17th._

Jerrīpānī—The Cicalas—View from the Pilgrim’s Banglā—A
Fall over a Precipice—The Glow-worm—Wild-beast Track—The
Scorpion—Mules—Karral Sheep—Wet Days—Noisy Boys—Conical
Hills—The Khuds—Earthquake at Cloud End—The Waterfall—Fall of a
Lady and Horse over a Precipice—Kalunga—General Gillespie—The
Kookree—The Ghoorkas—The Korah—The Sling—Ben Oge—Danger of
Exposure to the Mid-day Sun—An Earthquake—A Spaniel seized
by a Leopard—A Party at Cloud End—A Buffer encounters a
Bear—Hills on Fire—Botanical Gardens—Commencement of the
Rains—Expedition to the Summit of Bhadráj—Magnificence of the
Clouds—Storms in High Places—Danger of Narrow Roads during the
Rains—Introduction of Slated Roofs in the Hills 236

CHAPTER LV.

LIFE IN THE HILLS.

1838, _June 29th._

Kharītā of her Highness the ex-Queen of Gwalior—A Mountain
Storm—An Adventure—Asses carried off by Leopards—Bear’s
Grease—Dēodar Oil—Apricot Oil—Hill Currants—Figs and Tar—The
Cholera—Sacrifice of a Kid to the Mountain Spirit—Absurdity
of the Fear of a Russian Invasion—Plague of Fleas—The Charmed
Stone—Iron-stone—Khobarah, the Hill Dog—Sheep-stealing—Booteah
Chharrā—Flexible Stone—A Fearful Storm—A Doomed Banglā—Leaf
Butterflies—Bursting of the Mahratta Bāndh at Prāg—Similarity
of the Singular Marriages in the Hills with those of the
Ancient Britons—Honesty of the Paharīs, _i.e._ Mountaineers 250

CHAPTER LVI.

ELEVATION OF THE HIMALAYA.

1838, _September_.

The Great Peak of Bhadrināth—No Glaciers in the
Snowy Ranges—Ceremonies performed on visiting Holy
Places—Kedarnāth—Moira Peak—Gangoutrī—The Jaunti
Peak—Jumnotrī—The Himalaya Range formed by Mahadēo—Palia
Gadh—The Dewtas—Bandarponch—Hŭnoomān—The Cone—Height of the
Himalayas 260

CHAPTER LVII.

DEPARTURE FROM THE HILLS.

1838, _September 8th._

Family Sorrows—The Snowy Ranges after the Rains—Hill
Birds—The Park—Hill Boundaries—Stables on Fire—Opening of
the Keeree Pass—Danger of passing through it—Dēobund—Return
to Meerut—The Tomb of Jaffir Sāhib—Chiri-mārs—Country
Horses—The Theatre of the 16th Lancers—Colonel Arnold’s
Farewell Ball—His Illness—Opinions respecting the War—The
Lancers ordered to Afghānistan—Ghurmuktesur Ghāt—Country
Boats—Khobarah, the Hill Dog—Sancho—A Dilemma—Gūnths—Knocked
over by a Buffalo—Fathīgarh—Dhobīs—Cawnpore—Sāl and Teak
Trees—Deism—Points of Faith—The Power of the Brahmāns—A
Converted Hindū—Sneezing an Ill Omen—The Return of the Pilgrim 271

CHAPTER LVIII.

DEPARTURE FROM ALLAHABAD—THE THREE WISHES.

1838, _November_.

Arrival at Allahabad—Visit to the Mahratta Camp—The Three
Wishes—The Ticca Wife—The Farewell of her Highness the
Bāiza Bā’ī—How to dispose of a Wife—The Būndelās—Price of
Children—The Pillar in the Fort—Voyage down the River—Arwarī
Fish—A Lady Overboard—An Accident—The Sīta Khūnd—The Army
of the Indus—Meeting of the Governor-General and Runjeet
Singh—The Camel Battery—Lord Auckland’s Visit to Runjeet’s
Camp—The Koh-i-nūr—The Rajpūt Tray—A Paharī Dress—The Ayha’s
Stratagem—An Escape on the River—Natives afraid of Cadets—The
Panchāyāt—Fear of Poison—Berhampūr—The Nawāb, the Merchant, and
the Palkī—Quitted Berhampūr 291

CHAPTER LIX.

ARRIVAL IN CALCUTTA—THE “MADAGASCAR.”

1839, _January 1st._

Cutwa—Bracelets of the Sankh Shell—Anchor-making at Culwa—The
Dying Bengalī—The Skull—The Tides—The “Madagascar”—Mal-de-Mer—A
Man Overboard—Mountains of Africa—Wrecks—Wineburgh—Constantia—A
South-easter—Return to the Ship—Emancipation of the
Slaves—Grapes—A Trip into the Interior—Captain Harris—St.
Helena—Prices at Mr. Solomon’s Shop—The Tomb of the
Emperor—Longwood—St. Helena Birds—Our Indian Wars—General
Allard—Letter from Jellalabad—Death of Colonel Arnold—The
Afghāns—Mausoleum of Shah Mahmoud—The Gates of Somnaut—The
Remains of the Ancient City of Ghuznee 308