Chapter LX: Departure From St. Helena

1839, _March 19th._

Quitted St. Helena—The Polar Star—Drifting Sea-weed—The
Paroquets—Worship of Birds—A Gale—The Orange Vessel—The
Pilot Schooner—Landing at Plymouth—First Impressions—A
Mother’s Welcome—The Mail Coach—The Queen’s Highway—Dress
of the English—Price of Prepared Birds—The Railroads—The
New Police—English Horses—British Museum—Horticultural
Show—Umberslade—Tanworth—Conway Castle—Welsh Mutton—Church
of Conway—Tombstone of Richard Hookes, Gent.—The Menai
Bridge—Dublin—Abbeyleix—Horns of the Elk—Penny Postage—Steam
Engines—Silver Firs—Moonāl Pheasants—The Barge run down—Chapel
of Pennycross—The Niger Expedition—Schwalbach—Family
Sorrows—Indian News—The Birth of the Chimna Rājā Sāhib—Captain
Sturt’s Sketches—Governor Lin—The Bāiza Bā’ī consents to reside
at Nassuk—Fire in her Camp—Death of Sir Henry Fane—Church built
by Subscription at Allahabad—Governor Lin’s Button—The ex-Queen
of Gwalior marches to Nassuk—Price of a Gentleman—Death of the
Old Shepherd from Hydrophobia—Pedigree of Jūmnī, the Invaluable 327

CHAPTER LXI.

VOYAGE TO THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE.

1843.

Family Sorrows—Departure from England—The “Carnatic”—A
Gale—The Spirit of the Storm—Sunsets—Peak of Teneriffe—The
Trade Wind—A most Magnificent Comet—Phosphoric Lights—Visit of
Neptune declined—Scarcity of Provisions—Spray Bows—Albatross
caught—Arrival at the Cape of Good Hope 346

CHAPTER LXII.

RESIDENCE AT CAPE TOWN.

1843, _May_.

View from the Sea—Wrecks—Cape Town—The Fish Market—The
Seasons—Slavery—Washerwomen on the Mountain—Target
Practice—Beautiful Flowers—Cape Sheep—The Bushwoman—Green
Point—Shells—The Honey-bush—Bracelets of Ivory—High Price of
Curiosities—Auctions—Robberies—Camp’s Bay—Fine Aloes—Effect of
the Fog-wreaths on the Lion Mountain—The Lion’s Rump—Enormous
Bulbs—The Botanical Gardens—Remarkable Trees and Shrubs—The
Hæmanthus—Poisoned Arrows—The Puff-Adder—The Melaleuca—Curious
Trees—The Plaat Clip, or Flat Stone—The Solitary Ruin 355

CHAPTER LXIII.

SCENES AT THE CAPE—THE TEMPLE OF JAGANĀTH.

1843, _August_.

A Kafir Warrior—The Kaross—Vegetable Ivory—Shells—Changeable
Weather—The Races—Dutch Beauties—Newlands—Cape
Horses—The Arum—The Aloe—Servants at the Cape—Pedigree
of a Malay—The Cook—The Washerwoman—Africanders—Shops
in Cape Town—The “Robarts”—View from the Ship in the
Bay—The Muharram—The Southern Cross—The Sailor and the
Shark—Madras—Katmirams—Masulla Boats—The New Lighthouse—The
Mint—She-Asses—Donies—Descendants of Milton—The
Globe-Fish—Pooree—The Surf—Temple of Jaganāth—The Swing—The
Ruth—Death of Krishna—The Architect of the Gods—Jaganāth—The
Trinity—The Seal—Ancient City near Pooree—Dangerous Shore—The
Floating Light—The Sandheads—Anchored at Baboo Ghāt,
Calcutta—Wilful Burning of the “Robarts” 369

CHAPTER LXIV.

SKETCHES ON THE RIVER FROM CALCUTTA TO COLGONG.

1844, _April 1st._

Calcutta—Mango Fish—Lord Ellenborough recalled—Fall of Fish—The
Hoogly—The Bore—Quitted Calcutta—Ishapūr—Chagdah—Happiness
of Dying in Sight of the Ganges—Quitted the
Tropics—Cutwa—Plassey—Berhampūr—Morus Indica—Jungipūr—Quitted
the Bhagirathī—Night Blindness—Sikrī-galī—Herd of
Buffaloes—Patturgatta Hill—Rocks of Colgong—An Ajgar—A Wild and
Singular Scene 389

CHAPTER LXV.

SKETCHES ON THE GANGES FROM COLGONG TO DINAPŪR.

1844, _November 5th._

Bhagulpūr—Rock and Temple of Janghīra—Cytisus Cajan—Force of
the Current—Monghir—An Aërolite—Bairāgī Temples—Dwakanath
Tagore—Rosaries—Vases—Sūraj-garha—Bar—Beggars and
Swine—Benīpūr—Bankipūr—Azīmabad—Sūraj Pūja—Patna—The Golā—
Deegah—Havell’s Farm—Dinapūr 401

CHAPTER LXVI.

SKETCHES ON THE GANGES FROM DINAPŪR TO BENARES.

1844, _November 20th._

The Soane River—Chuppra—Revelgunge—The Fair at
Bulleah—Bamboos—The Wreck—Buxar—The Peepul Tree and Temple of
Mahadēo—Barrah—Satī Mounds—Kurum-nassa River—Palace of the
Nawāb of Ghazipūr—The Native Town—The Gigantic Image—Three
Satīs and a Mandap or Hindū Temple—Eight-and-Twenty Satīs—The
Fate of Women—The Kalsās—Station of Ghazipūr—The Stalking
Horse—Booraneepūr—Kankār Reefs—Seydpūr—Burning the Dead—Rites
for the Repose of the Soul—Brahmanī Bulls—Funeral Ceremonies of
the Romans—Raj Ghāt, Benares 412

CHAPTER LXVII.

SKETCHES ON THE GANGES FROM BENARES TO BINDACHUN.

1844, _December 5th._

Benefits arising from a Residence in the Holy City of
Kāshī—Kalŭ-Bhoirŭvŭ—The Snake-Charmers—Gigantic Image of
Hunoomān—Brahmanī Bulls—The Ghāts from the River—Bhīm
Singh—Tulsī Altars—Ruins of the Ghāt of the ex-Queen of
Gwalior—A Corpse—Young Idolaters—State Prisoners—The
City—Sultanpūr—Chunar—Picturesque Tree near the Ghāt—Singular
Ceremonies—The Deasil—Turnbull Gunge—Mirzapūr—Beautiful Ghāts
and Temples—Carpet Manufactory— Bindachun 435

CHAPTER LXVIII.

SKETCHES ON THE RIVER FROM BINDACHUN TO ALLAHABAD

1844, _December 11th._

Bindachun—Devī Ghāt—The Temple of Bhawānī—Bhagwān—The
Thugs—The Hajjam—The Tashma-baz Thugs—The Pleasure of
Wandering—Sirsya—Munyah Ghāt—Arail—Arrival at Allahabad—Native
Sugar-Mills 448

CHAPTER LXIX.

RESIDENCE AT PRĀG, AND RETURN TO CALCUTTA.

1844, _December 18th._

The Sibylline Temple—Mr. Berrill’s Hotel—A Barouche
drawn by Camels—The Murdār-khor—A Kharīta from the Bāiza
Bā’ī—Marriage of the Chimna Raja—Sultan Khusrū’s Garden—The
Tombs—Tamarind Trees—The Sarā’e—The Bāolī—Tattoos used for
Palanquins—Reasons for the Murder of a Wife and Child—The
Lāt—A Skilful Swordsman—An Eclipse—Tufāns—Death of Mr. James
Gardner—Quitted Allahabad—The Ganges—A Wreck—A Storm—Indian
Corn—Colgong—Terīyāgalī Hills and Ruins—Nuddea—Suspension
Bridge—Prinsep Ghāt at Calcutta—Engaged a Passage in the
“Essex” 461

CHAPTER LXX.

SKETCHES AT SEA.

1845, _September 1st._

The “Essex”—The “James and Mary”—Steering a Ship at Anchor—A
Waterspout—The Andamans—Acheen Point—A Squally Trade
Wind—Rodorigos—A Gale—The Whirlwind—The Stormy Petrel—A Day of
Repose—A Remarkable Sunrise 474