Chapter XIX: Section III

_A particular Account of the Places in which we anchored during our Passage through the Streight, and of the Shoals and Rocks that lie near them._

Having cleared the streight, we steered a western course. But before I continue the narrative of our voyage, I shall give a more particular account of the several places where we anchored, plans of which are deposited in the Admiralty-office for the use of future navigators, with the shoals and rocks that lie near them, the latitude, longitude, tides, and variation of the compass.

I. CAPE VIRGIN MARY. The bay under this cape is a good harbour, when the wind is westerly. There is a shoal lying off the cape, but that may easily be known by the rock-weed that grows upon it: The cape is a steep white cliff, not unlike the South Foreland. Its latitude, by observation, is 52° 24' S. and its longitude, by account, 68° 22' W. The variation of the needle, by the medium of five azimuths and one amplitude, was 24° 30' E. In this place we saw no appearance either of wood or water. We anchored in ten fathom, with coarse sandy ground, about a mile from the shore, Cape Virgin Mary bearing N. by. W. 1/2 W. distant about two miles, and Dungeness Point S.S.W. distant four miles. We anchored here on the 17th of December, and sailed the next day. There is good landing, on a fine sandy beach, all along the shore.

II. POSSESSION BAY. In sailing into this bay, it is necessary to give the point a good birth, because there is a reef that runs right off it about a short mile. The soundings are very irregular all over the bay, but the ground is every where a fine soft mud and clay, so that the cables can come to no damage. The point lies in latitude 52° 23' S. longitude, by account, 68° 57' W.: The variation is two points easterly. In the bay the tide rises and falls between four and five fathom, and runs at the rate of about a mile an hour; in the mid-channel without the bay, it runs nearly three miles an hour. In this place we saw no appearance either of wood or water. The landing appeared to be good, but we did not go on shore. We anchored here on the 19th of December, and sailed again on the 22d.

III. PORT FAMINE. At this place, the Spaniards, in the year 1581, built a town, which they called Phillippeville, and left in it a colony, consisting of 400 persons. When our celebrated navigator, Cavendish, arrived here in 1587, he found one of these unhappy wretches, the only one that remained, upon the beach: They had all perished for want of subsistence, except twenty-four; twenty-three of these set out for the river Plata, and were never afterwards heard of. This man, whose name was Hernando, was brought to England by Cavendish, who called the place where he had taken him up, Port Famine. It is a very fine bay, in which there is room and conveniency for many ships to moor in great safety. We moored in nine fathom, having brought Cape St Anne N.E. by E. and Sedger River S. 1/2 W. which perhaps is the best situation, though the whole bay is good ground. In this place there is very good wooding and watering; we caught many fine small fish with a hook and line off the ship's side, and hauled the seine with great success, in a fine sandy bay, a little to the southward of Sedger River: We also shot a great number of birds, of various kinds, particularly geese, ducks, teal, snipes, plover, and race-horses, and we found wild celery in great plenty. The latitude of this place is 53° 42' S., longitude, by observation, 71° 28' W.: The variation is two points easterly. We anchored here the 27th of December 1766, and sailed again the 18th of January 1767.

IV. CAPE HOLLAND BAY. There is no danger in sailing into this bay, and there is good anchoring ground in every part of it. We lay at about three cables' length from the shore, in ten fathom, the ground coarse sand and shells, Cape Holland bearing W.S.W. 1/2 W. distant three miles, Cape Froward a little to the N. of the E. Right a-breast of the ship there was a very fine rivulet, and close under Cape Holland a large river, navigable for boats many miles: The shore also affords fire-wood in great plenty. We found abundance of wild celery and cranberries, mussels and limpets, but caught very little fish, either with hook and line, or the seine. We killed some geese, ducks, teal, and racehorses, but they were not plenty. This bay lies in latitude 53° 57' S., longitude, by account, 72° 34' W.; the variation is two points easterly. The water rose about eight feet; we found, however, no regular tide, but for the most part a strong current setting to the eastward. We anchored here on the 19th of January, and sailed again on the 23d.

V. CAPE GALLANT BAY. In this bay, which may be entered with great safety, there is a fine large lagoon, where a fleet of ships may moor in perfect security. There is a depth of four fathom in every part of it, with a soft muddy ground. In the bay, the best anchoring is on the east side, where there is from six to ten fathom. Here is good watering from two rivers, and plenty of wood. The lagoon abounded with wild fowl, and we found wild celery, mussels, and limpets in plenty. We did not haul the seine, having torn one to pieces, and the other being unpacked; but if we had, there is reason to believe that we should have been well supplied with fish. The landing is good. The latitude of the bay and lagoon is 53° 50'S., longitude, by account, 73° 9' W.; the variation is two points easterly. I observed the water to rise and fall about nine feet, but the tide was very irregular. We anchored here the 23d of January, and sailed again the 28th.

VI. ELIZABETH'S BAY. At the entrance of this bay there are two small reefs, which appear above water. The most dangerous lies off the east point of the bay; but this may easily be avoided, by keeping at the distance of about two cables' length from the point. There is good landing all round the bay, but it is much exposed to the westerly winds. The best place for anchoring is Passage Point, at half a mile distance, bearing S.E. and the river bearing N.E. by E. distant three cables' length; in this situation, a bank or shoal, which may be known by the weeds, bears W.N.W. distant a cable's length: The ground is coarse sand, with shells. 'Sufficient wood is to be procured here for the use of ships, and there is good watering at a small river. We found a little celery and a few cranberries, but neither fish nor fowl. The latitude of this place is 53° 43' S. the longitude, by account, 73° 24' W.; the variation is two points easterly. We anchored here the 29th of January, and sailed the 4th of February.

VII. YORK ROAD. The only danger of sailing into the bay, that is formed by two points in this road, arises from a reef that runs off to about a cable's length from the western point, which, once known, may be easily avoided. To anchor in this bay, it is safest to bring York Point E.S.E. Bachelor's River N. by W.1/2 W. the west point of the bay or reef N.W.1/2 W. and St Jerom's Sound W.N.W. at the distance of half a mile from the shore. There is good watering about a mile up Bachelor's River, and good wooding all round the bay, where the landing also is, in all parts, very good. We found plenty of celery, cranberries, mussels, and limpets, many wild fowl, and some fish, but not enough to supply the ship's company with a fresh meal. The latitude here is 53°39'S., longitude, by account, 73°52'W.; the variation two points easterly. The water rises and falls about eight feet, but the tide is irregular. The master, who crossed the streight many times to examine the bays, frequently found the current setting in three different directions. We anchored here on the 4th of February, and sailed again the 11th.

VIII. BUTLER'S BAY. This is a small bay, entirely surrounded by rocks, so that no ship should anchor here if she can possibly avoid it. We found, however, sufficient wood and water to keep up our stock, mussels and limpets in plenty, some good rock fish, and a few wild fowl, but celery and cranberries were very scarce. This bay lies in latitude 53° 37'S., longitude, by account, 74°9'W.; the variation is two points easterly. The water rises and falls here about four feet, but the current always sets to the eastward. We anchored here the 18th of February, and sailed the 1st of March.

IX. LION COVE. This is a small bay, and surrounded by rocks. The water is deep, but the ground is good. It is not a bad place for one ship, nor a good one for two. Here is good watering up a small creek, but no wood. There is good landing at the watering-place, but no where else. We found no refreshment but a few mussels, limpets, and rock-fish, with a little celery. The latitude is 53°26'S., longitude, by account, 74°25'W.; the variation was two points easterly. The water, as far as we could judge by the appearance of the rocks, rises and falls about five feet, and the current sets at the rate of about two knots an hour. We anchored here on the 2d of March, and sailed the next day.

X. GOOD-LUCK BAY. This is a small bay, and, like several others in this streight, entirely surrounded by rocks. The ground is very coarse, and the cable of our best-bower anchor was so much rubbed, that we were obliged to condemn it, and bend a new one. At this place there is a little wood, and plenty of good water, but the rocks render it very difficult of access. No man that sees this part of the coast, can expect to find any kind of refreshment upon it; and indeed we caught nothing except a few rock-fish, with hook and line. There may be circumstances in which it may be good luck to get into this bay, but we thought it very good luck to get out of it. It lies in latitude 53°23'S., longitude, by account, 74°33'W.; the variation is two points easterly. The water rises and falls between three and four feet, though, whenever we had an opportunity of trying the current, we found it run easterly. We anchored here the 3d of March, and sailed the 15th.

XI. SWALLOW HARBOUR. This harbour, when once entered, is very safe, being sheltered from all winds, but the entrance is narrow and rocky; the rocks, however, may be easily avoided by keeping a good look-out, as there are large bunches of rock-weed upon them all. We found here a sufficient supply of wood and water, the wood however was very small. As the water is constantly smooth here, the landing is every where good; but we found no supply of provisions, except a few mussels and rock-fish. The mountains round it have the most horrid appearance, and seem to be altogether deserted by every thing that has life. The latitude is 53°29'S., the longitude, by account, 74°35'W.; the variation is two points easterly, and the tide rises and falls between four and five feet. We anchored here the 15th of March, and left the place the next day.

XII. UPRIGHT BAY. This bay may be safely entered, as there is no obstruction but what is above water. The wood here is very small, but we found sufficient to keep up our stock. The water is excellent, and in great plenty. As to provisions, we got only a few wild fowl, rock-fishes and mussels. The landing is bad. The latitude of this place is 53° 8'S., longitude 75°35 W.; the variation two points easterly. The water rises and falls about five feet, but the tide or current is very irregular. We anchored here on the 18th of March, and sailed again on the 10th of April.

There are three very good bays a little beyond Cape Shut-up, which we called _River Bay, Lodging Bay_, and _Wallis's Bay_. Wallis's Bay is the best.

About half way between Elizabeth's Bay and York Road, lies Mussel Bay, where there is very good anchorage with a westerly wind. There is also a bay, with good anchorage, opposite to York Road, and another to the eastward of Cape Cross-tide, but this will hold only a single ship. Between Cape Cross and Saint David's Head, lies Saint David's Sound, on the south side of which we found a bank of coarse sand and shells, with a depth of water from nineteen to thirty fathom, where a ship might anchor in case of necessity; and the master of the Swallow found a very good small bay a little to the eastward of Saint David's Head. A little to the eastward of Cape Quod, lies Island Bay, where the Swallow lay some time, but it is by no means an eligible situation. The ground of Chance Bay is very rocky and uneven, and for that reason should be avoided.

As all the violent gales by which we suffered in this navigation, blew from the westward, it is proper to stand about a hundred leagues or more to the westward, after sailing out of the streight, that the ship may not be endangered on a lee-shore, which at present is wholly unknown.

The following table shews the courses and distances, from point to point, in the streight of Magellan, by compass.[49]

[Footnote 49: Bougainville, in the account of his voyage, has given a tolerably minute chart of the straight of Magellan, but the names do not correspond with those used here, or by the English navigators in general. Perhaps the fullest and most accurate chart of this very intricate and unsafe passage ever published, is to be found in the American Atlas of Jefferys, London, 1775. It is enlarged from one published at Madrid in 1709, improved from the surveys and observations of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, and compared with those of Bougainville. Like all the works of Jefferys, the Arrowsmith of his day, it exhibits most commendable diligence and attention to every source of information. After all, however, it seems unlikely that this streight will ever become well known to Europeans, the inducement to navigate it being indeed very inconsiderable at any time, and the dangers it presents always highly formidable.--E.]

_Courses and Distances from Point to Point, in the Streight of Magellan by Compass._

Cape Virgin Mary lies in latitude 52°24'S., and longitude 68°22'W.

From Courses. Miles. Latitude, Long.

Cape Virgin Mary to Dungeness Point S.by W. 5 52°28' 68°28' Dungeness Point to Point Possession W.3/4 S. 18 52 23 68 57 Point Possession to the S. side of the 1st Narrows S.W.1/4 S. 27 52 35 69 38 The N. to the S. end of the Narrows S.S.W. 9 ---- ---- The S. end of the Narrows to Cape Gregory W.S.W.1/4 W. 25 52 39 70 31 Cape Gregory to Sweepstakes Foreland S.30°W. 12-1/3 ---- ---- Cape Gregory to Dolphin's Foreland S.W.1/2 W. 14 52 43 70 53 Dolphin's Foreland to the N. end of Elizabeth's Island S.1/2 W. 14-3/4 52 56 71 6 The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to St Bartholomew's Island E.N.E. 1-1/2 52 56 71 4 The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to St George's Island S.E. 8 ---- ---- The N. end of Elizabeth's Island to Porpus Point S.byW. 12 53 6 71 17 Porpus Point to Fresh-water Bay S.1/2 E. 22-2/3 ---- ---- Fresh-water Bay to Cape St Ann, or Port Famine S.S.E.1/4 E. 13-2/3 53 42 71 28 Cape St Ann to the entry of a great sound on the south shore N.E. ---- ---- ---- Cape St Ann to Cape Shut-up S.byE. 12 53 54 71 32 Cape Shut-up to Dolphin's Island S.S.W. 7 53 59 71 41 Dolphin's Island to Cape Froward, the southermost in all America S.47 W. 11 54 3 71 59 Cape Froward to Snug Bay Point W.1/2 N. 8 ---- ---- Snug, Bay Point to Cape Holland W.byS 13-2/3 53 57 72 34 Cape Holland to Cape Gallant W.1/4 S. 21-1/2 53 50 73 9 Cape Gallant to Elizabeth's Bay W.N.W.1/2 W 11-1/2 53 48 73 24 Elizabeth's Bay to York Point W.N.W.1/2 W. 6-1/3 53 39 73 32 York Road to Cape Cross-tide W.3/4 S. 10 ---- ---- York Road to Cape Quod W.1/2 S. 21 53 33 74 6 Cape Quod to St David's Head S.E. 4-1/2 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Butler's Bay S.1/4 W. 4 53 37 74 9 Cape Quod to Chance Bay S.S.W. 5 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Great Mussel Bay S.W.1/2 S. 6 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Snow Sound W.S.W.1/2 W. 10 ---- ---- Cape Quod to Lion's Cove W.N.W.3/4 W. 12 53 26 74 25 Lion's Cove to Good-Luck Bay W.N.W.3/4 W. 6 53 23 74 33 Cape Quod to Cape Notch W.N.W.3/4 W. 21 53 22 74 36 Cape Notch to Swallow Harbour S.S.E. 7 53 29 74 36 Cape Notch to Piss-pot Bay W.1/4 S. 23 ---- ---- Cape Notch to Cape Monday W. 28 53 12 75 26 Cape Monday to Cape Upright W.byN. 13 53° 6' 75° 38' Cape Monday to a great Sound on the N. shore N. 7 ---- ---- Cape Upright to Cape Providence N.byW.1/2 W. 9 52 57 75 37 Cape Upright to Cape Tamar N.W.byW.1/2 W 18 ---- ---- Cape Upright to Cape Pillar W.1/2 N. 50 52 43 76 52 Cape Pillar to Westminster Island N.E.1/2 N. 15 ---- ---- Cape Pillar to Cape Victory N.W.1/2 N. 28 ---- ---- Cape Pillar to the Islands of W.N.W. 23 52 27 77 19 Direction