Chapter V: Introduction: Of the Mount's Bay, and the Land's End District (3)

Why any promontory in an island should be exclusively denominated the Land's _End_, it is difficult to understand; yet so powerful is the charm of a name, that many persons have visited it on no other account; the intelligent tourist, however, will receive a much more substantial gratification from his visit; the great geological interest of the spot will afford him an ample source of entertainment and instruction, while the magnificence of its convulsed scenery, the ceaseless roar, and deep intonation of the ocean, and the wild shrieks of the Cormorant, all combine to awaken the blended sensations of awe and admiration.

The cliff which bounds this extremity is rather abrupt than elevated, not being more than sixty feet above the level of the sea. It is composed entirely of Granite, the forms of which present a very extraordinary appearance, assuming in some places the resemblance of _shafts_ that had been regularly cut with the chisel; in others, regular equidistant fissures divide the rock into horizontal masses, and give it the character of basaltic columns; in other places, again, the impetuous waves of the ocean have opened, for their retreat, gigantic arches, through which the angry billows roll and bellow with tremendous fury.

Several of these rocks from their grotesque forms have acquired whimsical appellations, as that of the _Armed Knight_, the _Irish Lady_, &c. An inclining rock on the side of a craggy headland, south of the Land's End, has obtained the name of _Dr. Johnson's Head_, and visitors after having heard the appellation seldom fail to acknowledge that it bears some resemblance to the physiognomy of that extraordinary man.

On the north, this rocky scene is terminated by a promontory 229 feet above the level of the sea, called "_Cape Cornwall_," between which and the Land's End, the coast retires, and forms _Whitsand Bay_, a name which it derives from, the peculiar whiteness of its sand, and amongst which the naturalist will find several rare microscopic shells. There are, besides, some historical recollections which invest this spot with interest. It was in this bay that Stephen landed on his first arrival in England; as did king John, on his return from Ireland; and Perkin Warbeck, in the prosecution of those claims to the crown to which some late writers have been disposed to consider that he was entitled, as the real son of Edward the Fourth. In the rocks near the southern termination of _Whitsand Bay_ may be seen the junction of the granite and slate; large veins of the former may be also observed to traverse the latter in all directions.

In viewing the whole of the scenery of this stern coast "it is impossible" says De Luc, "not to be struck with the idea, that _the bed of the sea is the effect of a vast subsidence_, in which the strata were broken off on the edge of what, by the retreat of the sea towards the sunken part, became a _continent_; the many small islands, or rocks of granite, appear to be the memorials of the land's abridgement, being evidently parts of the sunken strata remaining more elevated than the rest." There is a small _Archipelago_ of this kind called the _Long-ships_, at the distance of two miles west of the Land's end; on the largest of these rocks is a light-house, which was erected in consequence of the very dangerous character of the coast, by a Mr. Smith, in the year 1797, who obtained a grant from the Trinity House, and was rewarded for a limited number of years by a certain rate on all ships that passed it. This period having expired, it is at present under the jurisdiction of the Trinity House.[39] The tower is constructed of granite, the stones of which are _trenailed_ on the same plan as that adopted by Smeaton in the construction of the Eddystone light-house. The circumference of the tower at its base is 68 feet; the height from the rock to the vane of the lantern, 52 feet; and from the sea to the base of the light-house it is 60 feet; but notwithstanding this elevation its lantern has been often dashed to pieces by the spray of the ocean during the winter's tempest! The management of this establishment is entrusted to two men, who during the winter are often, for two or three months, confined to this sea-girt prison without the possibility of communicating with the land; they accordingly lay in a store of provisions, as if they were about to embark for a long voyage.

We have already stated that the historians of Cornwall, from Leland, Norden, and Carew, downwards, have all recorded the ancient tradition of a considerable portion of the Mount's bay having been formerly woodland. They have likewise handed down the concurrent tradition relative to the supposed tract of land which once connected the islands of Scilly with Cornwall. This tract, to which we are told was given the name of the _Lioness_ ("_the Silurian Lyonois_,") is said to have contained one hundred and forty parish churches, all of which were swept away by the resistless ocean! As to the Cornish word _Lethowstow_, or _Lioness_, by which the sea between Scilly and Cornwall is distinguished, we may observe, that the appropriation of such a term is sufficiently accounted for from the general violence and turbulence of the sea, just as the celebrated rock lying south of the channel between the Land's end and Scilly retains the name of the _Wolf_,[40] from the howling of the waves around it. Those who may wish for farther evidence upon this subject may consult _Mr. Boase's_ excellent memoir "On the submersion of part of the Mount's bay," published in the second volume of the Transactions of the Geological Society of Cornwall.

We shall in this place make a short digression, in order to afford some account of the _Scilly Islands_, which are situated in a cluster about nine leagues, west by south, from the Land's end, and are distinctly visible from it.

The SCILLY ISLANDS were called by the Greeks _Hesperides_ and _Capiterides_, or the _Tin Isles_, and by this name they are mentioned by Diodorus Siculus, Strabo, and Solinus. They must, however, have undergone some material revolution since the age of these writers, for we fail in every attempt to reconcile their present state with the description which they have transmitted to us; and what is very unaccountable, not a vestige of any ancient mine can be discovered in the islands, except in one part of _Trescow_; and these remains are so limited, that they rather give an idea of an attempt at discovery, than of extensive and permanent mining. We are strongly inclined to believe that the Tin of those days came, in part at least, from the opposite coast of Saint Just, but of this we shall hereafter speak more fully. In the time of Strabo we learn that the number of these Islands did not exceed _ten_, whereas at present there are upwards of _one hundred and forty_, but of which the following only are inhabited, viz. _Saint Mary's_,_ Saint Agnes'_, _Saint Martin's_, _Trescow_, _Bryer_, and _Sampson_. It is curious that the name of the cluster should have been derived from one of the smallest of the islets (Scilly), whose surface does not exceed an acre. The number of inhabitants amounts to about two thousand, nearly half of which reside in Saint Mary's, which contains 1600 acres; it possesses three towns, a pier, a garrison, a custom house, and some monuments of British antiquity.

At SAINT AGNES is a very high and strong light-house, which was erected in the year 1680. Its present machinery was designed by the ingenious Adam Walker, the well known lecturer on Natural Philosophy, although it has lately undergone some modification at the suggestion of Mr. Wyatt. The machinery consists of a triangular frame attached to a perpendicular axis, which, by means of an appropriate power, is made to revolve once every three minutes. On each face of the triangle are arranged ten parabolic reflectors of copper plated with silver, each having an argand lamp in its focus. By this device the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon, and by its regular intermission and increase is readily distinguished from every other on the coast.[41]

The civil government of these islands is chiefly managed by twelve of the principal inhabitants, who meet monthly at Heugh Town, St. Mary's, and settle differences by compromise. The Duke of Leeds holds the islands by lease for thirty-one years from the year 1800, at the rent of £40, besides paying the fine of £4000, as a renewal.

The reader is no doubt anxiously waiting to be introduced to the classical descendants of the Grecian or Phoenician race,--Whether they have been swallowed up with the "Lioness," or washed into the ocean by the tempests, we know not; but certain it is that the present inhabitants are all new comers;--Phoenician or Grecian, there are none.--_Jenkins_, _Ellis_, _Hicks_, _Woodcock_, _Ashford_, and _Gibson_[42] are names which would even defy the ingenious author of the Diversions of Purley to trace to a classical source.

The Scillonians are a robust and healthy people, and were it not for the facility with which they obtain spirits, they would attain a very advanced age. It is a common saying amongst them, and is no doubt intended to express how highly favourable the spot is to longevity, although it obviously admits of another construction, that "_for one man who dies a natural death_, _nine are drowned_." It has been remarked that a deformed person is not to be found in the islands; but we apprehend that this fact requires an explanation very different from that which is usually assigned; it cannot be received as any test of the salubrity of the spot, or of the superior healthiness of the race; the fact is simply this, that exposure to inclement weather, want of proper food, and those various privations which necessarily increase as we recede from the luxuries of civilization, kill, during infancy, those feeble subjects which might, otherwise, have become deformed during the progress of their growth. It is for the same reason that we so frequently observe the troops of barbarous countries composed of the most athletic individuals, for the hardship of their service weeds out the feeble and invalid. We have already alluded to the tenacity with which the Cornishman clings to his native soil, but the attachment of the Scillonian, if possible, is still stronger to his desolate rock. What a striking contrast does this form with the roving inhabitant of an alluvial country, where every object, it might be presumed, was calculated to excite and sustain the strongest attachment; but this principle of Nature is wise and universal,--the plant is easily loosened from a generous soil, but with what difficulty is the lichen torn from its rock.

The islanders are chiefly employed in Ashing, making kelp from the _Algæ_, which is disposed of to the Bristol merchant for the use of the glass manufacturer, and in pilotage. From a combination, however, of unfortunate circumstances, in addition to the fatal blow given to the smuggling trade, by the activity of the preventive service, the inhabitants were reduced to such extreme distress that it became necessary in the year 1819 to appeal to the generosity of the public in their behalf; and, notwithstanding the great difficulties of the times, the sum of nine thousand pounds was collected for their relief. In this great work of charity it is but an act of justice to state, that the Society for promoting Christian knowledge, by their purse, as well as by their writings, performed a very essential service. The funds thus obtained were in part appropriated to the relief of the immediate and pressing distress under which they laboured, while the remainder was very judiciously applied towards the promotion of such permanent advantages as might prevent the chance of its recurrence. A Fish-cellar was accordingly provided in the island of Trescow, for the purpose of storing and curing Ash; boats adapted for the Mackarel and Pilchard Fisheries were purchased, and others were repaired; nets and various kinds of tackling were also at the same time liberally supplied. By such means have the inhabitants of these cheerless rocks been enabled to avail themselves of some of the resources which Providence has placed within their reach, and their families have been thus enabled to exist without the dread of absolute starvation.[43] Much, however, still remains for philanthropic exertion, and should this humble volume fall into the hands of those, who are enabled by the superior gifts of fortune to contribute to the wants of their unhappy brethren, we may perhaps serve their cause by stating that any donation, however small, will be received by _Henry Boase, Esq._ at the Penzance Bank. The greatest benefit would arise from the extension of their fisheries, for in consequence of the peculiar situation and convenience of these islands, the Cod and Ling fisheries might be carried to almost any extent; and, while boats in any part even of the Mount's Bay, would be weather-bound with the wind W.S.W. to S., they can proceed from Scilly into the channel, without the least difficulty. The Scillonians, however, have as yet been unable to avail themselves of the advantages of their locality; the want of proper boats prevents their proceeding in the pursuit of their occupation, farther than four or five leagues from the land.

During the summer months various species of fish are caught with hook and line; among the smaller kind, which are salted by the Scillonians for their winter consumption, are "_Bass_, _Wrass_, _Chad_, _Scad_, _Brit_, _Barne_, _Cuddle_, _Whistlers_," &c. all of which are included by the islanders under the general appellation of "_Rock-fish_."

There is a very curious fact noticed here with respect to the _Woodcock_. These birds generally arrive in Scilly before they are observed in any part of England; more frequently with a north-east,[44] though sometimes with a north-west wind, and are often so exhausted as to be caught in great numbers by the inhabitants, especially near the light-house, the splendour of whose light appears to attract them, and striking against its lantern they not unfrequently fall lifeless in the gallery. It is for the naturalist to consider from whence they migrate.

The Climate of these islands is both milder and more equable than that of Cornwall, but this advantage is counterbalanced by the frequent occurrence of the most sudden and violent storms. By those who have kept journals it has been found that not more than six days of perfect calm occur in the course of a year, and that the wind blows from between S.W. and N.W. for more than half of that period.

With respect to Geology, these islands will afford but little variety; with the exception of some beds of _Porphyry_ at Saint Mary's, and some beds of _Chlorite_, containing _Pyrites_, in the same island, they consist entirely of Granite, and are doubtless a continuation of the Devonian range, although the rock assumes an appearance less porphyritic; it contains, however, veins of red Granite. At the Lizard Point in the island of Trescow, a variety of granite occurs, in which the felspar is of a remarkably pure white, and might, we should conceive, be advantageously employed in the manufacture of Porcelain. In some chasms of this rock, and in the centre of large masses, the _Mica_ is of a silvery hue, and occurs crystallized in its primitive form. In the same island is a remarkable cavern, in the centre of which is a pool of fresh water. The porphyritic beds in Saint Mary's are interesting on account of the distinct appearance of stratification which they display, and _Mr. Majendie_ thinks that an undoubted instance of stratified granite is to be seen near the same spot. The Granite of Scilly is very liable to decomposition; whence has arisen all that fancied statuary of the Druids, of which we have spoken in another place. The Islands are undoubtedly undergoing a gradual diminution. At no great distance of time Saint Mary's will probably be divided by the sea, and a channel formed through the low land between the New-town and the south-east side of the garrison. This might perhaps be prevented by throwing down masses of granite from a neighbouring hill, so as to form a barrier against the sea. The object may be worthy of attention, as the sea in winter, with a high tide, has been known to pass over this land, and the effect of its forcing a channel there would be to divide the garrison from the rest of the island. If the Geologist proceeds to a spot behind the quay, and between the front of the garrison-hill and that island, he will be gratified by the discovery of a process the very converse of that which we have been just describing. In these places the granitic sand is becoming indurated by the slow infiltration of water holding iron in solution, and which appears to be derived from the decomposing hills above it. Some fine specimens of this "_regenerated_" granite have been placed in the Geological Society's cabinet at Penzance.

We now return to the Land's End,--from which we should proceed to visit a promontory, called "_Castle Treryn_," where is situated the celebrated "_Logan Stone_." If we pursue our route along the cliffs, it will be found to lie several miles south-east of the Land's End, although by taking the direct and usual road across the country, it is not more than two miles distant; but the Geologist must walk, or ride along the coast on horseback, and we can assure him that he will be amply recompensed for his trouble.

From the Cape on which the signal station is situated, the rock scenery is particularly magnificent, exhibiting an admirable specimen of the manner, and forms, into which Granite disintegrates. About forty yards from this Cape is the promontory called _Tol-Pedn-Penwith_, which in the Cornish language signifies the _holed headland in Penwith_. The name is derived from a singular chasm, known by the appellation of the _Funnel Rock_; it is a vast perpendicular excavation in the granite, resembling in figure an inverted cone, and has been evidently produced by the gradual decomposition of one of those vertical veins with which this part of the coast is so frequently intersected. By a circuitous route you may descend to the bottom of the cavern, into which the sea flows at high water. Here the Cornish Chough (_Corvus Graculus_) has built its nest for several years, a bird which is very common about the rocky parts of this coast, and may be distinguished by its red legs and bill, and the violaceous blackness of its feathers. This promontory forms the Western extremity of the Mount's Bay. The antiquary will discover in this spot the vestiges of one of the ancient "_Cliff Castles_," which were little else than stone walls, stretching across necks of land from cliff to cliff. The only geological phenomenon worthy of particular notice is a large and beautiful contemporaneous vein of _red Granite_ containing _Shorl_; is one foot in width, and may be seen for about forty feet in length.

Continuing our route around the coast we at length arrive at "_Castle Treryn_." Its name is derived from the supposition of its having been the site of an ancient British fortress, of which there are still some obscure traces, although the wild and rugged appearance of the rocks indicate nothing like art.

The foundation of the whole is a stupendous group of Granite rocks, which rise in pyramidal clusters to a prodigious altitude, and overhang the sea. On one of those pyramids is situated the celebrated "_Logan Stone_," which is an immense block of Granite weighing above 60 tons. The surface in contact with the under rock is of very small extent, and the whole mass is so nicely balanced, that, notwithstanding its magnitude, the strength of a single man applied to its under edge is sufficient to change its centre of gravity, and though at first in a degree scarcely perceptible, yet the repetition of such impulses, at each return of the stone, produces at length a very sensible oscillation! As soon as the astonishment which this phenomenon excites has in some measure subsided, the stranger anxiously enquires how, and whence the stone originated--was it elevated by human means, or was it produced by the agency of natural causes?--Those who are in the habit of viewing mountain masses with geological eyes, will readily discover that the only chisel ever employed has been the tooth of time--the only artist engaged, the elements. Granite usually disintegrates into rhomboidal and tabular masses, which by the farther operation of air and moisture gradually lose their solid angles, and approach the spheroidal form. _De Luc_ observed, in the Giant mountains of Silesia, spheroids of this description so piled upon each other as to resemble Dutch cheeses; and appearances, no less illustrative of the phenomenon, may be seen from the signal station to which we have just alluded. The fact of the upper part of the cliff being more exposed to atmospheric agency, than the parts beneath, will sufficiently explain why these rounded masses so frequently rest on blocks which still preserve the tabular form; and since such spheroidal blocks must obviously rest in that position in which their lesser axes are perpendicular to the horizon, it is equally evident that whenever an adequate force is applied they must vibrate on their point of support.

Although we are thus led to deny the Druidical _origin_ of this stone, for which so many zealous antiquaries have contended, still we by no means intend to deny that the Druids employed it as an engine of superstition; it is indeed very probable that, having observed so uncommon a property, they dexterously contrived to make it answer the purposes of an ordeal, and by regarding it as the _touchstone_ of truth, acquitted or condemned the accused by its motions. Mason poetically alludes to this supposed property in the following lines.

"Behold yon huge
And unknown sphere of living adamant,
Which, pois'd by magic, rests its central weight
On yonder pointed rock: firm as it seems,
Such is its strange, and virtuous property,
It moves obsequious to the gentlest touch
Of him, whose heart is pure, but to a traitor,
Tho' e'en a giant's prowess nerv'd his arm,
It stands as fix'd as Snowdon."

The rocks are covered with a species of _Byssus_ long and rough to the touch, forming a kind of hoary beard; in many places they are deeply furrowed, carrying with them a singular air of antiquity, which combines with the whole of the romantic scenery to awaken in the minds of the poet and enthusiast the recollection of the Druidical ages. The Botanist will observe the common Thrift (_Statice Armeria_) imparting a glowing tinge to the scanty vegetation of the spot, and, by growing within the crevices of the rocks, affording a very picturesque contrast to their massive fabric. Here too the _Daucus Maritimus_, or wild carrot; _Sedum Telephium_, _Saxifraga Stellaris_, and _Asplenium Marinum_, may be found in abundance.

The Granite in this spot is extremely beautiful, on account of its porphyritic appearance; the crystals of felspar are numerous and distinct; in some places the rock is traversed by veins of red felspar, and of black tourmaline, or schorl, of which the crystalline forms of the prisms, on account of their close aggregation, are very indistinct. Here may also be observed a contemporaneous vein of _schorl rock_ in the granite, nearly two feet wide, highly inclined and very short, and not having any distinct walls. On the western side of the Logan rock is a cavern, formed by the decomposition of a vein of granite, the felspar of which assumes a brilliant flesh-red, and lilac colour; and, where it is polished by the sea, exceeding even in beauty the _Serpentine caverns_ at the Lizard.

Mr. Majendie observed in this spot numerous veins of fine grained granite, which he is inclined to consider as _cotemporaneous_; he also observed what, at first sight, appeared to be fragments, but which, upon closer examination, he pronounces to be _cotemporaneous concretions_; for large crystals of _felspar_ may be seen shooting from the porphyritic granite into these apparent fragments. These phenomena are extremely interesting in a geological point of view, and well deserve the attention of the scientific tourist.

In Treryn cove, just below the site of the castle, Dr. Maton found several of the rarer species of shells, as _Patella Pellucida_, _P. Fissura_, _Mytilus Modiolus_, _Trochus Conulus_, _Turbo Cimex_, and _T. Fascitatus_ (of Pennant.)

Before we quit this coast we beg to state, for the information of the geological tourist, that the _Granite_ which we have just traced from beyond the Land's End to this spot, continues until within half a mile of the signal post near Lemorna cove, where it meets with a patch of slate, and is lost for about the space of three quarters of a mile. At the western extremity of this junction (_Carn Silver_) the mineralogist will find embedded Garnet-rock with veins of _Epidote_ and _Axinite_. Here may also be seen the rare occurrence of a granite vein penetrating both the slate and the granitic rock.

But let us return.----About two miles north-east of the Logan rock, and in the high road to Penzance, stands the town of SAINT BURYAN, which though now only a group of wretched cottages was once a place of very considerable note, and the seat of a College of Augustine Canons; the latter was founded by Athelstan after his return from the conquest of the Scilly Islands, A.D. 930. The remains of the College were wantonly demolished by one Shrubshall, Governor of Pendennis Castle, during the usurpation of Cromwell.

The Church tower stands on the highest point in this part of the country, being 467 feet above the level of the sea; it consequently forms a very conspicuous object, and is so exposed to the rains from the Atlantic, that the stones carry a deceptive face of freshness with them which lends an aspect of newness to the whole building. From the top of the tower the prospect is of a very extensive kind, commanding the whole range of the surrounding country, and an immense surface of sea. In clear weather the Scilly Islands may be easily distinguished in the horizon, especially with a setting sun, when they appear to project from the brilliant ground of the western sky like figures embossed on burnished gold.

Both from the history and appearance of this edifice the antiquary will enter it with sensations of awe and veneration, but he will find with regret that the ancient Roodloft has been lately removed, from an idea that it deadened the voice of the preacher, and that the parishioners have also converted the original forms into modern pews, a change which has cruelly violated the venerable uniformity of the interior. There is a singular monument in the church, in the shape of a coffin, having an inscription around the border in very rude characters, and now partly obliterated; it is in Norman French, and has been thus translated.

CLARICE

The wife of Geffrei de Bollait lies here
God of her soul have mercy
They who pray for her soul shall have
Ten days Pardon.

On the middle of the stone is represented a Cross fleury, standing on four steps; the monument is said to have been found many years ago by the sexton, while sinking a grave.

Opposite the great door in the church-yard stands a very ancient Cross, on one side of which are five balls, and, on the other, a rude figure intended to represent the crucified Saviour. We here present our readers with a sketch of this singular monument.

Another Cross stands in the road, and faces the entrance into the church-yard, of which also we have introduced a delineation.

The Deanery is in the gift of the Crown, as a royal peculiar, and is tenable with any other preferment. The Dean exercises an independent jurisdiction in all ecclesiastical matters within the parish of St. Burian, and its dependent parishes of St. Levan, and Sennan. He is the Rector, and is entitled to all tithes. A Visitation court is held in his name, and the appeal from it is only to the King in council. Athelstan is said to have granted to this church the privilege of a Sanctuary, and a ruin overgrown with ivy; standing on an estate called _Bosliven_, about a mile east from the church, is thought to be its remains, but Mr. Lysons justly observes that the _Sanctuary_ usually comprised the church itself, and perhaps a certain privileged space beyond it, and that the ruins to which the tradition attaches, are probably those only of an ancient chapel.

From St. Buryan the traveller may at once return to Penzance, which is about six miles distant, but as no object of particular interest will occur in the direct road, it is unnecessary for us to attend him thither. Should he, however, be inclined to extend his excursion, he will receive much gratification in returning by a somewhat circuitous route along the southern coast, through the parish of Saint Paul. In this case, we may first proceed to _Boskenna_, the seat of John Paynter Esq. a highly romantic spot, abounding with woodcocks, and which under the direction of a skilful landscape gardener might be made to emulate in beauty any of the charming villas that adorn the under-cliff of the Isle of Wight. On this estate there is a superficial quarry of decomposing granite, which the mineralogist ought to visit, for the purpose of obtaining some remarkably fine specimens of felspar in separate crystals, which may be easily removed from the mass in which they lie imbedded.

At _Bolleit_, in a croft near Boskenna, and adjoining the high road, is to be seen a circle of stones very similar to that we have already described (p. 81,) except that it has not a central pillar; the appellation given to these stones is that of the "_Merry Maidens_," on account of a whimsical tradition, that they were once young women transformed like Niobe into stones, as a punishment for the crime of dancing on the Sabbath day. In a field on the opposite side of the road there are two upright stones standing about a furlong asunder, the one being nearly twelve, the other sixteen feet in height. They are probably sepulchral monuments; the same ridiculous tradition, however, attaches to them as to the circle, and has accordingly bestowed upon them the appellation of the "_Pipers_."

At CARN BOSCAWEN, on this coast, is to be seen a very extraordinary group of rocks, consisting of a large flat stone, the ends of which are so poised upon the neighbouring rocks, as to leave an opening underneath; _Dr. Borlase_, with his accustomed zeal, insists upon its Druidical origin, and ever ready to supply the deficiency of both history and tradition by the sallies of an active imagination, very confidently informs us, that "this said opening beneath the pensile stone was designed for the seat of some considerable person, from which he might give out his edicts, and decisions, his predictions, and admissions to Noviciates"!--_Risum teneatis geologici?_

In our road to Saint Paul, we pass _Trouve_, or _Trewoof_, an estate situated on the side of a woody hill, overlooking a romantic valley, which is terminated by _Lemorna Cove_, a spot which should be visited by every stranger who delights in the "lone majesty of untamed Nature." Within the estate of Trouve are the remains of a triple entrenchment, in which runs a subterranean passage; and, it is said, that during the civil wars a party of Royalists were here concealed from the observation of the forces of Sir Thomas Fairfax. There is a fine chalybeate spring on this estate.

At KERRIS, in the parish of Paul, about five miles from Penzance, is an oval enclosure called "_Roundago_," which is stated to have been connected with Druidical rites; time and the Goths, however, have nearly destroyed its last remains, so that the antiquary will require the eyes of a Borlase to recognise its existence by any description hitherto given of it.

PAUL CHURCH is a very conspicuous object from its high elevation,[45] and interests the historian from the tradition, already stated, of its having been burnt by the Spaniards, upon which occasion the south porch alone is said, in consequence of the direction of the wind, to have escaped the conflagration. A pleasing confirmation of this tradition was lately afforded during some repairs, when one of the wooden supporters was found charred at the end nearest the body of the church. It also deserves notice that the thick stone division at the back of the _Trewarveneth_ pew, which has so frequently occasioned enquiry, is a part of the old church, which escaped the fire. In the church is the following curious notice of its having been burnt, "_The Spanger burnt this church in the year 1595_."

Most tourists inform us that in this church-yard is to be seen the monumental stone, with the epitaph of _Old Dolly Pentreath_, so celebrated among antiquaries, as having been the last person who spoke the Cornish language. Such a monument, however, if it ever existed, is no longer to be found, nor can any information be obtained with regard to its probable locality. Her Epitaph is said to have been both in the Cornish and English language, viz.

"Coth Dol Pentreath canz ha deaw
Marir en Bedans en Powl pleu
Na en an Eglar ganna Poble braz
Bet en Eglar Hay Coth Dolly es!"

"Old Dol Pentreath, one hundred age and two
Both born, and in Paul Parish buried too;
Not in the Church 'mongst people great and high
But in the Church-yard doth old Dolly lie!"

In the parishes of Paul and Buryan are several Tin streams; in some of which the _Wood Tin_, or wood-like oxide of Tin, is occasionally found in large, and well defined pieces. It has been also, although rarely, found in its matrix.

From Paul Church we may proceed to Penzance, either by the high road over Paul Hill, which becomes extremely interesting from the picturesque beauty and superior cultivation of the country; or we may descend towards the sea shore, and return through the villages of _Mousehole_ and _Newlyn_, which may be called colonies of Fishermen, for here the Pilchard[46] and Mackarel fisheries are carried on to a very great extent; and every kind of fish which frequent this coast are caught and sent to Penzance, and other Cornish towns; and, in the early part of the season, they supply the London market with Mackarel, which are conveyed thither by way of Portsmouth. The Lobster fishery also proves an ample source of revenue to the Mount's Bay fishermen, from which alone they divide not less than Two Thousand Pounds, annually.

The ride or walk along the coast from MOUSEHOLE to NEWLYN is highly interesting. The former town which is situated about two miles south-west of Penzance; and half a mile from Paul Church-town, contains about six hundred inhabitants. There is a small Pier capable of admitting vessels of one hundred tons burthen; but it is chiefly used as a harbour for the numerous fishing boats.

NEWLYN, with respect to population, exceeds by one-third that of Mousehole. It has a commodious pier, which is also usually occupied by the fishing boats of the place, which exceed four hundred in number. In the cliff-road between these villages, we pass a platform, which during the late war was a _battery_, forming a security to the bay from any privateers that might visit it. Adjoining this battery stands a furnace for the purpose of heating the shot. It was under the direction of a small party of the Royal Artillery.

The Geologist in performing this part of the excursion will have much to observe. About one hundred yards west of Mousehole, the clay-slate ceases, and the granite commences. At this junction numerous granite veins, varying in width from about a foot to less than an inch, pass through the slate.[47] A little farther west, a cavern may be observed in the cliff, which has evidently been produced by the decomposition of the walls of an old _Adit_. In this cavern the Mineralogist has found good specimens of _Eisenkeisel_, or Iron flint:--but we will conclude, for our tourist must be wearied by the length of the excursion; tomorrow we shall be again prepared to accompany him in a different direction, and to point out a succession of fresh objects, when antiquities, minerals, and picturesque views will, in their turn, again present themselves for his examination.

FOOTNOTES:

[35] This product is carefully collected, and preserved in stacks by the inhabitants, for the purpose of fuel. It is worthy of remark that the nature of the fuel employed in a country always imparts a character to its cookery, hence the striking difference between that of Paris and London; so in Cornwall, the convenience afforded by the furze in the process of Baking, has given origin to the general use of pies. Every article of food is dressed in a pie, whence it has become a proverb, that "_the Devil will not come into Cornwall, for fear of being put into a pie_." In a season of scarcity the Attorneys of the county having at the Quarter Sessions very properly resolved to abstain from every kind of pastry, an allusion to the above proverb was very happily introduced into an Epigram, extemporaneously delivered on the occasion, and which, from its point and humour, deserves to be recorded--

"If the proverb be true, that the fame of our pies
Prevents us from falling to Satan a prey,
It is clear that _his friends_--the Attorneys,--are wise
In moving such obstacles out of the way."

[36] We insert the following facts collected by _Dr. Paris_, from the first volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall--"The total quantity of Granite shipped at Falmouth during the last seven years, amounts to _Forty Thousand Tons_. It has been employed for building the Docks at Chatham, and the Waterloo Bridge in London. The lands in the vicinity of Penhryn have furnished it; indeed the quantity actually quarried has been considerably greater, for many of the blocks, in consequence of being damaged, have been condemned and sold at a low price to the inhabitants for building, and other purposes. The number of men generally employed in quarrying it is about four hundred; their wages from twelve to eighteen shillings per week, varying with the quantity raised. The lord of the soil receives one halfpenny a foot for all that is quarried; the freight during war was as high as 25 shillings per ton, at present it is only 16s. Fourteen cubic feet weigh one ton. The weight of the blocks generally varies, from five _cwt._ to seven tons."

[37] It is not more than three hundred years since the art of husbandry was first introduced. The lands were formerly all in common, and the inhabitants being wholly engaged in the mines, actually let out their pastures to the graziers of Devon, by whom they were in return supplied with cattle and corn.

[38] _Church-Town._ This expression is peculiar to Cornwall--the fact is, that since many market, and even Borough towns are _without_ a church, the Cornish dignify those that have it with the title of _Church-town_.

[39] We take this opportunity to state, that the annual revenue of the Long-ships light-house is about three thousand pounds. Every British vessel that passes pays a halfpenny per ton;--every foreign vessel pays one shilling, without reference to its tonnage.

[40] It is a curious fact that the whole or part of this rock is _Lime stone_.

[41] Vessels passing this light pay the same dues as those received by the Long-ships, except in the case of coasting vessels, which pay, not according to their tonnage, but simply a shilling per vessel.

[42] One half of the inhabitants of St. Agnes are named _Hicks_; one quarter of those of Trescow, and a third of those at Bryher are called _Jenkins_; and a half of St. Martin's is divided between _Ellis_ and _Ashford_.

[43] See "A view of the present state of the Scilly Islands; exhibiting their vast importance to the British Empire, the Improvements of which they are susceptible, and a particular account of the means lately adopted for ameliorating the condition of the Inhabitants, by the establishment and extension of their Fisheries. By the Rev. George Woodley, Missionary from the Society for promoting Christian Knowledge; and Minister of St. Agnes, and St. Martin's." _8vo. pp. 344. London, 1822._

[44] The same wind is said to bring them on the Southern shores of Ireland. It is generally believed that they come from Norway, not so much to avoid the cold, as to obtain the worms which are locked up in the earth during the frost.

[45] It may be observed in the engraving of Saint Michael's Mount, on the elevated line of coast which forms the back ground to the picture.

[46] A History of the Pilchard Fishery will be presented to our readers in the Excursion to Saint Ives.

[47] See _Mr. Majendie's_ interesting account of this phenomenon in the first volume of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall.

EXCURSION III.

TO BOTALLACK MINE; CAPE CORNWALL; AND THE MINING DISTRICT OF SAINT JUST.

To exhibit the greatest variety of interesting objects, in the least possible space and time, may be said to constitute the essential excellence of a "_Guide_." For the accomplishment of such a purpose we now proceed to conduct the stranger to _Botallack Mine_ and _Cape Cornwall_, through the Parishes of Madron, Morvah, and Saint Just.

In our road to the village of Madron, or Madron _Church-town_, as it is commonly called, we pass _Nancealverne_, the estate of John Scobell Esq., _Poltair_, the residence of Edward Scobell Esq., and _Trengwainton_ the seat of Sir Rose Price, Bart. At this latter place considerable exertions have been made to raise plantations, and to clothe the granitic hills behind it with wood; and from the progress already made, we feel sanguine in the ultimate success of the enterprize. Amongst the pictures in the possession of the worthy Baronet are several of the earlier productions of Opie. The head of an aged beggar, by that artist, has frequently excited our admiration, and presents a characteristic specimen of the native simplicity and expression of his style, and the magic force of his chiaro-scuro. This head was painted also under circumstances, a knowledge of which cannot fail to heighten its interest. The father of Sir Rose having been struck by the venerable aspect of an aged mendicant as he was begging in the streets of Penzance, immediately sent for Opie, then residing in the town, and expressed a desire that the young artist should paint his portrait. The beggar was accordingly regaled with a bounteous meal upon the occasion, and Opie appears to have caught his expression at the happy moment, when like the "Last Minstrel" of our northern bard,

----"Kindness had his wants supplied
And the old man was gratified."

The Village of Madron is about two miles to the north-west of Penzance. The church is placed on an elevated situation, and commands a very striking view of Saint Michael's Mount, and its bay. Penzance is a Chapelry of this parish.

MADRON WELL is situated in a moor about a mile and a half from the _Church-town_. It is enclosed within walls, which were partially destroyed in the time of Cromwell, by Major Ceeley of St. Ives, but the remains of them are still sufficiently entire to exhibit the form of an ancient Baptistry.[48] The inner wall with its window and door-way, and the altar with a square hole or socket in the centre, which received the foot of the cross or image of the patron saint, are still perfect. The foundation of the outer wall, or anti-room, may be traced with great ease.

Superstition has, of course, attributed many virtues to waters which had been thus hallowed, and this Well, like that of Chapel Euny, has been long celebrated for its medicinal efficacy in restoring motion and activity to cripples,[49] Baptism was administered only at the stated times of Easter and Whitsuntide; but, at all seasons, the virtues of the waters attracted the lame and the impotent; and the altar was at hand to assist the devotion of their prayers, as well as to receive the offerings of their gratitude.

Chemical analysis has been unable to detect in this water the presence of _any_ active ingredient that might explain the beneficial operation attributed to it.

In the road to Morvah we meet with the celebrated _Cromlech_[50] at Lanyon. It is placed on a prominent hill, and from its lonely situation, and the wildness of the country by which it is surrounded, it cannot fail to inspire sensations of reverential awe in every one who approaches it.[51] This rude monument has been long known amongst the country people by the appellation of the "_Giant's Quoit_." When the last edition of this "_Guide_" went to the press it was still standing in its original position, and was thus described. It consists of three unshapen pillars inclining from the perpendicular, which support a large table stone (resembling a _Discus_ or _Quoit_) in a horizontal position, the direction of which is nearly north and south. The flat stone is 47 feet in girth, and 12 in length, and its height from the ground is sufficient to enable a man on horseback to pass under it.--The aged monument, however, has at length bent beneath the hand of time, and fallen on its side. Its downfall, which happened during a violent tempest, occasioned a universal feeling of regret in the country.

In the same tenement, about a quarter of a mile west of Lanyon house, is another monument of this kind, nearly as large as the former; and it is singular that this should have been the only Cromlech in Corwall which escaped the notice of Dr. Borlase. It has fallen on its edge, but is still entire.

All our notions respecting the origin and use of these monuments are purely conjectural; it seems, however, very probable that they are the most ancient in the world, erected possibly by one of the first colonists which came into the island. As Cromlechs are known to abound in every country where the _Celts_ established themselves, many antiquaries have concluded that they are of Celtic origin. The same doubt and uncertainty involve every consideration with respect to their use; it has been a general idea that they were intended for altars, but the upper stone is evidently too gibbous ever to have admitted the officiating priest, or to have allowed him to stand to overlook the fire, and the consumption of the victim; besides, what occasion is there to suppose a Cromlech any thing more than a sepulchral monument? Is it not the most natural and probable conclusion? Indeed Mr. Wright actually found a skeleton deposited under one of them in Ireland, and it must strike the most superficial observer that our modern tombs are not very dissimilar to the former in their construction, and probably derived their form from a very ancient model.

MEN-AN-TOL. The next object of curiosity consists of three stones on a triangular plane, the middle one of which is perforated with a large hole, and is called _Men-an-Tol_, i. e. the _holed stone_. Dr. Borlase who, as we have often observed, has recourse to the chisel of Druidism to account for every cavity or crevice, conjectures that it was appropriated to the rites of that priesthood, and asserts, on the authority of a farmer, that even in his time, it was deemed to possess the power of healing those who would crawl through it.

In a croft, about half a mile to the north-west of Lanyon, lies a very ancient sepulchral stone, called by the Cornish "_Men Skryfa_," i. e. the _Inscribed Stone_. It is nine feet ten inches long, and one foot eight inches broad; the inscription upon it is "_Riolobran Cunoval Fil_," which signifies _Riolobran the Son of Cunoval lies buried here_.[52] With respect to the date of this monument, all antiquaries agree in thinking that it must have been engraven before the corruptions crept into the Roman alphabet, such for instance as the junction of the letters by unnatural links, or when the down strokes of one were made to serve for two, &c. This practice arose soon after the Romans went off, and increased until the Saxon letters were introduced at Athelstan's conquest. The most striking deviation from the Roman orthography to be observed in this monument is in the cross stroke of the Roman N not being diagonal as it ought to be, nor yet quite horizontal as we find it in the sixth century; and hence it is fair to assign to it a date antecedent to that period.[53]

CHUN CASTLE, a prominent object in this neighbourhood, is similar to _Caerbran Round_, which has been described, except that the ruins are more extensive, and less confused. The remains occupy the whole area of a hill commanding a wide tract of country to the east, some low grounds to the north and south, and the wide expanded ocean to the west. Another Cromlech may also be seen from this spot, and stands upon the very line which divides the parishes of Morvah and Saint Just; but it is far inferior to that at Lanyon. We will now for awhile abandon the contemplation of these faded monuments of past ages, and proceed to the examination of a rich and interesting field of mineralogical and geological research. In introducing the stranger, however, to the district of Saint Just, we must repeat to him the caution with which Mr. Carne[54] has very prudently accompanied his history of its mineral productions. "If the stranger on his arrival shall expect to find any of the minerals so prominently situated as to salute his eyes at once; or if he shall suppose that those objects which are especially worthy of notice in a geological point of view, are to be discovered and examined in the space of a few hours, he will be greatly mistaken and disappointed; for very few, either of the minerals or the veins are to be found _in situ_, except by a diligent, patient, and persevering search."

Without further delay we shall now attend the traveller to _Pendeen Cove_; in our road to which, the only objects worthy attention are the Stamping Mills, and Burning Houses or Roasting Furnaces, belonging to _Botallack Mine_. They are situated on the bank of the river which runs into the sea at _Pendeen Cove_. The Tin ore of _Botallack_ is generally mixed with a portion of _Sulphuret of Copper_, which not being separable from it by the mechanical process of dressing, is submitted to the action of a roasting furnace, by which the Copper being converted into an oxide, and the Sulphur into Sulphuric acid, _a Sulphate of Copper_ is thus produced, which is easily separated by washing. The solution obtained is then poured into casks, containing pieces of iron, by the agency of which the _Copper_ is _precipitated_.[55]

There is to be seen at _Pendeen_, a cave, known by the name of _Pendeen Vau_, and concerning which there are many ridiculous stories. It appears to have been one of those hiding places in which the Britons secreted themselves, and their property, from the attacks of the Saxons and Danes. The cave is still almost entire, a circumstance which is principally owing to the superstitious fears of the inhabitants, many of whom, at this very day, entertain a dread of entering it.

At _Pendeen Cove_, the Geologist will meet with several phenomena well worthy his attention. At the junction of the Slate and Granite, veins of the latter will be observed traversing the former rock, and what is particularly worthy of notice, they may be seen emanating from a great mass of granite and passing into the schistose rock by which it is covered. One part of the cliff of this cove consists of large fragments of granite imbedded in clay and earth; the interstices of which are filled with white sand, which has been probably blown there from the beach; through this sand, water impregnated with iron is slowly percolating, the effect of which is the induration of the sand, and the formation of a _breccia_, which in some parts has acquired very considerable hardness.