Chapter VI: Introduction: Of the Mount's Bay, and the Land's End District (4)

Before proceeding to the metalliferous district of Saint Just, we may observe that, if the traveller's object be to reach Saint Ives by the road along the cliffs, through the parish of _Zennor_, he will meet with a most cheerless country, but by no means destitute of geological interest. He ought particularly to examine a bold rocky promontory, called the "_Gurnard's Head_," where he will find a succession of beds of slaty felspar, hornblende rock, and greenstone. The geology of this headland has been accurately described by _Dr. Forbes_ in the second volume of the _Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall_. _Polmear Cove_ ought also to be visited on account of the Granite veins, which are perhaps as singular and interesting as any of those already described.--But let us proceed to complete our examination of the coast of _Saint Just_. Many of the mines are situated on the very edge of the cliff, and are wrought to a considerable distance under the sea; but all communication to them is from land.[56] For a description of the numerous minerals found in this district,[57] we must refer the reader to the highly valuable paper by _Joseph Carne, Esq_. which is published in the second volume of the _Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall_. We cannot, however, allow the mineralogist to pass _Trewellard_, without reminding him that, at this spot, _Axinite_ was first discovered in Cornwall, and that the most beautifully crystallized specimens of that mineral, scarcely inferior to those brought from Dauphiné, may still be procured here. In the cliff at _Huel Cock Carn_, a vein of this mineral, of a violet colour, three feet in width, may be traced for upwards of twenty yards; and in its vicinity there is to be found also a vein of _garnet rock_. _Apatite_, of a greyish-white colour, associated with _Hornblende_, may be seen in the same spot. In the slate rocks between _Huel Cock_ and Botallack, _Prehnite_ has lately been found, for the first time; it appears to form a small vein, which in one part is divided into two branches. Upon the discovery of the above mineral, says Mr. Joseph Carne, an expectation was naturally formed, that _Zeolite_, its frequent associate, and an equal stranger to Cornwall, might shortly make its appearance. This opinion has been lately verified by the discovery of, at least, two varieties of that mineral, imbedded in the _Prehnite_ vein, viz. _Stilbite_, or _foliated Zeolite_, crystallized in flat four-sided prisms, with quadrangular summits; and the _radiated Mesotype_, which sometimes contains nodules of _Prehnite_. Other specimens have been found in rather an earthy state, and may possibly be the _mealy Zeolite_ of Jameson. In the same slate rocks _Apatite_ occurs of a yellowish-green colour, and crystallized in hexaedral prisms. In the granite rocks on the high hills south-east of Trewellard, _Pinite_ is to be observed.

We arrive at the "_Crown Engine_" of Botallack--

"How fearful
And dizzy 'tis to cast one's eyes so low,
The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air
Show scarce so gross as beetles:----
----I'll look no more,
Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight
Topple down headlong."

This is undoubtedly one of the most extraordinary and surprising places in the mining districts of Cornwall, whether considered for the rare and rich assemblage of its minerals, or for the wild and stupendous character of its rock scenery. Surely, if ever a spot seemed to bid defiance to the successful efforts of the miner, it was the site of the _Crown Engine_[58] at Botallack, where at the very commencement of his subterranean labours, he was required to lower a steam engine down a precipice of more than two hundred feet, with the view of extending his operations under the bed of the Atlantic ocean!!! There is something in the very idea which alarms the imagination; and the situation and appearance of the gigantic machine, together with the harsh jarring of its bolts, re-echoed from the surrounding rocks, are well calculated to excite our astonishment.

But if you are thus struck and surprised at the scene when viewed from the cliff above, how much greater will be your wonder if you descend to the surface of the mine. You will then behold a combination of the powers of art with the wild sublimity of Nature which is quite unparalleled; the effects of the whole being not a little heightened by the hollow roar of the raging billows which are perpetually lashing the cliff beneath. In looking up you will observe troops of mules laden with sacks of coals, for the supply of the engine, with their undaunted riders, fearlessly trotting down the winding path which you trembled at descending even on foot. As you approach the engine, the cliff becomes almost perpendicular, and the ore raised from the mine is therefore drawn up over an inclined plane,[59] by means of a horse engine placed on the extreme verge of the overhanging rocks above, and which seems to the spectator below as if suspended in "_mid air_."

The workings of this mine extend at least seventy fathoms in length under the bed of the sea; and in these caverns of darkness are many human beings, for a small pittance, and even that of a precarious amount, constantly digging for ore, regardless of the horrors which surround them, and of the roar of the Atlantic ocean, whose boisterous waves are incessantly rolling over their heads. We should feel pity for the wretch who, as an atonement for his crimes, should be compelled to undergo the task which the Cornish miner voluntarily undertakes, and as cheerfully performs; yet such is the force of habit, that very rarely does any other employment tempt him to forsake his own; the perils of his occupation are scarcely noticed, or if noticed, are soon forgotten.

The _Lode_[60] of the mine may be seen _cropping out_, in the group of rocks beneath the engine. The ore is the grey and yellow sulphuret of copper, mixed with the oxide of tin,[61] of which _she_[62] has already "_turned up_" a sufficient quantity to afford a very handsome premium to the adventurers. In the grey sulphuret of this mine, _purple copper ore_, of the kind called by the Germans "_Buntkupfererz_," is frequently met with. Besides which, a great number of interesting minerals may be collected, as several varieties of _Jasper_; _arborescent native Copper_; _Jaspery iron ore_; _Arseniate of Iron_, which until it was discovered in the _Crown lode_ of Botallack, was unknown in St. Just. It is of a brown colour, and is crystallized in cubes. _Sulphuret of Bismuth_, imbedded in _Jasper_; beautiful _specular iron ore_; _hæmatitic Iron_; and the _hydrous oxide of iron_, in prisms terminated by pyramids, and which was supposed by the Count de Bournon to contain _Titanium_. The picturesque rocks of this district may be considered as composed of _Hornblende rock_, which will be found to alternate with slate. The contorted appearance of the former in the vicinity of Botallack is very singular, and will admit of much speculation. The _Crown rocks_, to which the mineralogist must not neglect to descend, consist of extremely compact _Hornblende rock_, in which occur numerous veins and beds of different minerals; viz. _veins of Garnet rock_, with numerous imbedded crystals, being at one part almost a foot in width; _Magnetic Iron Pyrites_, massive, in beds, near the engine; its colour is bluish-grey, and it is called by the workmen _Spelter_, who mistake it probably for _Blende_, which latter mineral also occurs here in considerable quantities. In a part of the rock, which is almost inaccessible, there is a vein of _Epidote_, distinctly crystallized, and about six inches wide. The miners, however descend the fearful precipice without any difficulty, in order to collect specimens for the inquisitive visitant. _Axinite_ also occurs in veins, or perhaps in beds; _Thallite_, _Chlorite_, _Tremolite_, and a black crystallized _Schorl_, in which the late Rev. William Gregor detected six per cent. of _Titanium_, are to be found also in this interesting spot.

CAPE CORNWALL is the next object of interest after Botallack. This point of land stretches out to the west, at an elevation of two hundred and thirty feet, and forms the northern boundary of _Whitsand Bay_ (p. 88). It is entirely composed of a slaty rock, traversed by numerous veins of _Actinolite_. To the geologist this spot will be interesting, since on the shore beneath, a junction may be observed between the _Granite_ of the Land's End, and the slate of this promontory.[63] These formations are separated by a large vein of _metalliferous quartz_, which forms the _lode_ of the mine in the neighbourhood, called "_Little Bounds_," and whose engine suspended in the cliff above, constitutes a very striking feature in the scenery. This vein, besides _Oxide of Tin_, for which it is worked, contains _Native Copper_, different _Oxides of Iron_, _Red Jasper_, _Quartz_ of a bright brownish red colour, and _Scaly red Iron_ _ore_, sometimes investing Quartz, and occasionally in small masses consisting of red cohering scales, which are unctuous to the touch.

Mr. Carne states, that in this mine three distinct lodes, distant from each other, have been worked under the sea; two of them being in granite, the third in slate. Here also, at two parts of the _lode_, known by the name of "_Save-all's lode_," probably, as the name would seem to imply, in consequence of the avarice of the miner, a communication has been made between the sea and the mine; one of them is at about high water mark at spring tides; the other is covered by the sea at every tide, except at very low neaps; great and constant attention is therefore necessary for the security of this latter breach. At first the opening was stopped by a piece of wood covered with turf; but as this defence was not found to be sufficiently secure, a thick platform caulked like the deck of a ship, was ultimately placed upon it, and which renders it nearly water proof. The breaking of the waves is heard in all the levels of the mine, and in the part directly beneath the pebbly beach, the rolling of the stones in boisterous weather produces a most terrific effect. In the drift at the forty fathom level, which is carried a considerable way under the sea, Mr. Chenhalls, the intelligent agent of the mine, had formerly observed a successive formation of _Stalactites_; in consequence of which statement, Dr. John Davy and Mr. Majendie were induced to visit the spot. It had been closed for two years previously, but before it was shut up Mr. Chenhalls had carefully removed all the _Stalactites_ which then existed. Upon examination it was observed that a fresh crop had been produced during the interval just stated; some of which were eighteen inches in length, and above an inch in diameter. The _Stalagmites_ directly underneath them were of still larger dimensions; both however had the same yellowish-brown colour, and were found to consist of _Peroxide of iron_. Specimens may be seen in the cabinet at Penzance. Dr. Paris has suggested that they resulted from the decomposition of _Pyrites_, forming, in the first instance, a soluble _Sulphate of iron_, but which, by attracting farther oxygen, deposited its base in the form here discovered.

At a little distance southward of Cape Cornwall, is a high rocky promontory called CARAGLOSE HEAD, from which the traveller may command one of the most interesting views in this part of Cornwall. On the north are Cape Cornwall, and the romantic machinery of _Little_ _Bounds Mine_. Southward and directly under the head, the interesting creek called PORNANVON COVE, with the engine of _Huel St. Just Tin Mine_ near the sea shore. Westward, on a clear day, the Scilly Islands may be distinctly seen. This is a spot seldom visited by strangers, but with the exception of Botallack, it is certainly one of the most striking in the district of Saint Just. At _Pornanvon Cove_, a stratum of sea sand and pebbles may be seen in the cliff, at an elevation of fifteen feet above high water mark!

Advancing from the coast into the interior of the country towards Saint Just's _Church-town_, Dr. Berger observed many blocks of _Schorl rock_[64] scattered on this part of the granitic plain, particularly amongst the rubbish of some old tin mines, which are here very numerous, but are now quite deserted.

SAINT JUST CHURCH TOWN. Nothing of any interest is to be seen at this place, except a very ancient cross, a sketch of which we shall introduce at the conclusion of the present chapter; and the remains of an ancient Amphitheatre.

In this, and similar "_Rounds_," as they are provincially called, the ancient British assembled, in order to witness those athletic sports, for which the Cornish are still remarkable; indeed, at this very day, wrestling matches are held in the amphitheatre at Saint Just, during the holidays of Easter and Whitsuntide.[65]

The Antiquary ought not to quit this parish without visiting the "_Botallack Circles_;" when examined separately they do not differ essentially from that at _Bolleit_, or at _Boscawen Un_ before described (p. 81); but they intersect each other and form a confused cluster; "but in this seeming confusion," exclaims Dr. Borlase, "I cannot but think that there was some mystical meaning, or, at least, distinct allotment to particular uses; some of these might be employed for the sacrifice, others allotted to prayer, others to the feasting of the priests, others for the station of those who devoted the victims; and lastly, that these circles intersected each other in so remarkable a manner, as we find them in this monument, might be to intimate that each of these holy rites, though exercised in different circles, were but so many links of one and the same chain, and that there was a constant dependance and connection between sacrifice, prayer, holy feasting, and all the several parts of Druidical worship."

In taking leave of the metalliferous district of Saint Just we have to observe, that it has been considered by Mr. Carne, and not without probability, as having constituted the principal portion of what was formerly known under the name of the _Cassiterides_, and that if it would redound to the honour, or contribute to the prosperity of Saint Just, it might be said, "that her Tin was probably a constituent part of the Shield and Helmet of Achilles,--of the Tabernacle of the Israelites,--of the Purple of Tyre,--and of the Temple of Solomon."

From Saint Just's _Church-town_, the road conducts us over a wild part of the peninsula, although highly salubrious, and invigorating from the fine sea breezes which blow from every side; after a ride over such bleak and barren hills, the eye experiences a singular repose on our approach to the cultivated shores of the Mount's Bay.

FOOTNOTES:

[48] Baptistries were continued out of the church until the sixth century.

[49] The learned Bishop Hall in his work entitled "_The Mystery of Godliness_," bears ample testimony to the medicinal efficacy of this water in restoring motion and activity to cripples.

[50] _Cromlech_ in the Cornish language signified a crooked stone.

[51] This ancient monument is faithfully depicted in the frontispiece of the present work; but we are in candour bound to acknowledge that, in the introduction of Saint Michael's Mount, the artist has availed himself of the "_quidlibet audendi_" so universally conceded to Painters and Poets; in reality, an intervening eminence obstructs the view of the Mount from this spot, and he has therefore, upon the present occasion, just taken the liberty to remove this barrier to our vision. If the Geological tourist condemn this harmless deviation from truth, we shall recriminate by reminding him that even Geologists have sometimes appropriated to themselves an indulgence which Horace extended only to the votaries of the Muses, and have not hesitated to overlook the existence of a mountain where it stood in the way of a favourite theory.

[52] Before the beginning of the seventh century we are informed by Strutt that it was held unlawful to bury the dead in the cities, and that there were no church-yards. _Anglo-Saxon Æra, vol. 1. p. 69._

[53] There are several monumental inscriptions of the same kind to be seen in Cornwall, but none so ancient as _Men Skryfa_. In Barlowena bottom, for instance, as you pass from the church of Gulval to that of Madron, there is one which is now converted into a foot-bridge across a brook; if the antiquary examine the letters upon this stone, which he cannot conveniently do without getting under it, he will discover the corruptions alluded to in the text, viz. the _I_ in _Filius_ linked to the _L_.

[54] To the elaborate memoir, by _Mr. Carne_, published in the second volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, and entitled "_On the Mineral Productions, and the Geology of the Parish of Saint Just_," we would especially direct the attention of the scientific traveller.

[55] The quantity of Copper procured in this way at Botallack, says Mr. Carne, is about a ton in a year. This chemical process is now practised in most of the mines in which the "_Tin-stone_" is mixed with Copper ore, as in Dolcoath, Cook's Kitchen, Chacewater, and in some parts of St. Agnes.

[56] The principal sub-marine mines on this part of the coast are _Levant_; _Tolvaen_; _Huel Cock_; and _Huel Castle_; Copper Mines; and _Praze_; _Little Bounds_; _Riblose_; _Huel St. Just_; Tin Mines; and _Botallack_ Tin and Copper Mine.

[57] A miner of the name of _James Wall_, who resides in the village of _Carnyorth_, has generally a variety of these minerals for sale.

[58] "_Crown Engine_," so named from its vicinity to three rocks called the "_Three Crowns_."

It was our intention to have presented the reader with an engraving of this extraordinary scene, and indeed measures had been taken for its accomplishment, when we were induced to abandon the design on learning that a lithographic print had been published by a meritorious and self-taught artist at Penzance, the sale of which we were anxious not to diminish.

[59] This apparatus is termed "_The Shammel Whim_."

[60] A metalliferous vein is provincially called a _Lode_.

[61] The tin and copper are in a state of _mechanical_ mixture, although _Dr. Boase_ has lately found amongst the heaps, a specimen of "_Tin Pyrites_," in which these metals are _chemically_ combined.

[62] The miners always distinguish their mines by a _feminine_ appellation.

[63] See a paper by Dr. John Davy, in the first volume of the Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, entitled "_On the Granite Veins of Porth Just_."

[64] This rock is a binary compound of _Quartz_ and _Schorl_, without any, or scarcely any, admixture of the other constituents of Granite; and yet when we consider its various relations, it must be regarded as rather a variety of the latter than a distinct rock. The locality now mentioned and that singular group of rocks between Truro and Bodmin, known by the name of _Roach Rock_, are, as far as we know, the only places in Cornwall where this modification of granite is found _in mass_. In the form of veins its occurrence is not unusual, especially at the junction of granite and slate, where it would often seem to exist as an intermediate rock.

[65] The Cornish have ever been celebrated for their skill in the art of wrestling; hence the expression "_To give one a Cornish Hug_," which is a dexterous lock in that art peculiar to them. It must, however, be admitted, whether as a matter of triumph or humiliation, we will not declare, that the Cornish have greatly declined in their art, so as to be now inferior even to the Devonians, and to the inhabitants of many other districts in their prowess. This degeneracy might perhaps be attributed to the change which has taken place during the lapse of time, in the mode of working for Tin; formerly it was all procured by _Streaming_, an occupation as healthy and invigorating, as the present one of subterranean mining is debilitating. We apprehend, however, that a moral cause of still greater force has contributed to the change--the diffusion of _Methodism_; which has unquestionably proved a powerful instrument in the amelioration of the habits and disposition of the Cornish miner.

EXCURSION IV.

TO SAINT IVES, HAYLE, HUEL ALFRED, &c.

Passing through the little village of Chyandour, we ascend by a shady road through that of Gulval, to _Kenegie_,[66] the seat of the family of John Arundel Harris Arundel, Esq. This spot commands a very interesting view of the Mount's Bay, the beauty of which is greatly heightened by the diversified and picturesque foreground. On a neighbouring hill is _Rosmorran_, the retired cottage ornée of George John, Esq. of Penzance; we scarcely know a situation where the skill of the landscape gardener could be exerted with greater advantage or effect.

Pursuing the road, and passing the gate of Kenegie, we ascend the great granite range which extends from Dartmoor to the Land's End, and which appears, in this part of the country, to be broken into a number of detached groups. Upon the summit of one of these hills stands a castellated building which, although of modern construction, occupies the site of an ancient hill castle, called "_Castle an Dinas_;" it was erected by John Rogers, Esq., as a picturesque object from his occasional residence at _Treassowe_.

On descending the northern side of the granite ridge, a curious atmospheric phenomenon is frequently observable,--the clear and cloudless sky becoming suddenly dense and hazy; the change is evidently occasioned by the condensation of the vapours contained in the warm and rarefied air of the Mount's Bay, by the colder one which blows from the Bristol channel. Amidst wild and rugged hills the road winds to Saint Ives, in the course of which, the geologist will have many opportunities of furnishing his portfolio with sketches, in illustration of the changes which time and weather produce on Granite; huge blocks of this stone lie scattered on all sides, while stupendous masses are seen on the hills above in different stages of decomposition, and which from their threatening attitude, would appear as if in preparation to join their former companions in the plains below.

SAINT IVES. This populous sea port and borough stands on the shores of the Bristol Channel, in a very fine bay bounded by bold rocks of _Greenstone_ and _Slate_. The latter of these rocks is in many places undergoing rapid decomposition, in consequence of which large masses of the Hornblende rock have fallen in various directions, and given a singular character of picturesque rudeness to the scene: this is remarkably striking in the group of rocks which constitute Godrevy Island.

Saint Ives is a populous sea port, of very considerable antiquity, deriving its name from that of _Iia_, a religious woman, who came hither from Ireland in about the year 460. The Corporation, which obtained its powers from a charter granted by Charles the First, consists of a mayor, recorder, town-clerk, twelve capital burgesses, and twenty-four inferior burgesses. The Borough returns two members to Parliament, a privilege which was conferred in the fifth year of Queen Mary; and the right of election was vested in all the householders in the parish paying scot and lot. In the year 1816, the magistrates, and trustees of the Pier and Port of Saint Ives resolved to extend the former, and to construct a breakwater, in order to shelter it. The undertaking has been commenced, but it is at present far from being completed.

Saint Ives is the birth place of the _Reverend Jonathan Toup_, Rector of Saint Martin's near Looe, the learned annotator of _Suidas_, and editor of _Longinus_. His father was formerly the lecturer of this town.

On no part of the Cornish coast is the Pilchard fishery carried on with greater activity or success; and at the time of large draughts, it is usual for all the inhabitants to contribute their assistance; shops and dwelling-houses are frequently deserted on such occasions, and even the church has been abandoned, when large shoals have made their appearance on the Sabbath! By a certain signal given by a person stationed on the heights, the approach of a shoal is generally announced to the town; the effect is most singular. Trumpets are immediately heard in different parts, and the inhabitants rushing from their houses, and quitting their ordinary occupations, are to be seen running in all directions, and vociferating the word "_Hever--Hever--Hever_."--What the term signifies, or whence it was derived, no one can conjecture, but its sound is no less animating to the ears of a Saint Ives-man, than is the cry of "_To Arms_," to the Son of Mars; and the tumult which it excites is more like that of a besieged city, than the peaceable and joyful bustle of an industrious fishing town.

As we have not hitherto described the manner in which the Pilchard Fishery is conducted, perhaps the present will be an appropriate opportunity.

The Pilchard, in size and form, very much resembles the common Herring,[67] and is actually confounded with it by Linnæus, under the name of "_Clupoea Harengus_;" upon close inspection, however, an essential difference may be readily discovered. The Pilchard is less compressed, as well as smaller; there is besides a very simple, and common test of distinction, depending upon the dorsal fin of the Pilchard being placed exactly in the centre of gravity, if therefore it be taken up by this fin, it will preserve an equilibrium; while the body of the Herring, when so tried, will dip towards the head. Mr. Pennant likewise observes that the scales of the latter easily drop off, whereas those of the Pilchard adhere very closely.

It has been commonly stated that these fish migrate from the North sea in immense shoals, during the summer months, and reach the Cornish coast about the middle of July, where they remain until the latter end of September, when they again depart to the arctic regions. This statement, however, cannot be correct, as the fish are never seen off the coasts of Scotland, the northern shores of Ireland, the Isle of Man, nor, in fact, off any coast north of Cornwall. It would therefore seem more probable, that they come from some part of the Western ocean, and return thither at the end of the season. Within the last ten years a considerable alteration in their usual course has taken place, much to the disappointment of the Cornish Fishermen; they have kept at a greater distance from the shores; whether this circumstance has arisen from their food being farther than usual out at sea, or from any alteration in the currents, it is impossible to ascertain. In the present year, however, they seem to have returned to Saint Ives; an immense quantity, calculated at three thousand hogsheads, having been taken at one "_catch_," by two _Seines_ in this bay. The other parts of the coast have been visited only by very small shoals.

The preparations for this fishery are generally commenced about the end of July,[68] as the period at which the Pilchards are expected to pay their annual visit. As they usually make their appearance here in the evening, the boats engaged in the adventure seldom go to sea before three or four o'clock in the afternoon, and as rarely remain longer than ten. On some occasions, however, they go out again very early in the morning, and have sometimes succeeded in taking fish at sun rise. The fishermen, arranged in boats which are scattered at a little distance from each other, are directed to the shoals by persons who are stationed on the cliffs, or who sometimes follow in boats. These persons who are called "_Huers_," probably from the _hue and cry_ which they raise, discover them by the peculiar red tint[69] which the water assumes, and from other indications with which they are well acquainted.[70] The spot where the nets should be cast, or "_shot_" having been determined from the signals of the "_Huer_," the boat containing the great net or "_Stop Seine_" as it is called, and which is frequently as much as 300 fathoms in length, and 10 in depth, is gradually cast from the boat into the sea by two men, as the vessel is gently rowed round the shoal by others of the crew; a service which is performed with such dexterity that in less than four minutes the whole of this enormous net is _shot_, and the fish enclosed. Upon this occasion it is always the first care of the _Seiner_ to secure that part to which the fish were swimming; and then so to carry the net around them, that they shall be hemmed in on every side. The net immediately spreads itself, the corks on one edge rendering it buoyant, and the leaden weights on the other causing it to sink to the bottom; for if the depth of the water should exceed that of the _Seine_, it is evident that there would be little probability of securing any fish, however large the shoal might be. As the circle in which the Seine is shot, is generally larger than the net can compass, its two extremities are at a distance from each other when the whole is in the water. Ropes are therefore carried out from each of these ends, by which they are _warped_ together by the men on board the two large boats, so as to bring them into contact. When this is effected, the two extremities, if the shoal be large, are lifted from the bottom, and expeditiously tacked together. During this last operation every method is adopted to agitate the water, and drive back the body of fish from this only aperture through which they can escape. This having been accomplished, the fish remain within the enclosure formed by the encircling net, which extends from the surface to the bottom of the sea. It only now remains to secure the Seine in its position, for which purpose _grapnels_, or small anchors, are carried out at some distance on every side, the ropes from which are fastened to the rope at the upper end of the net; these _grapnels_ will of course retain the Seine in its circular position, and preserve it against the influence of the tides, and the changes of the weather. Where, however, the shore is sandy and shelving, as in Saint Ives' Bay, the _Seine_ is at once drawn into shallow water by a number of men, who are called "_Blowsers_."

The quantity of fish which is thus secured will depend of course on many contingent circumstances, such for instance, as the strength of the tides, the nature of the coast, and the dexterity of the fishermen, &c. A Seine has sometimes enclosed as many as fifteen hundred, or two thousand hogsheads. The next operation is to remove the fish from the Seine, and to convey them in boats to the shore. This is performed by another smaller net, termed a "_Tuck net_," and the process is called "_Tucking_," and is a sight which the stranger should not, on any account, neglect to witness. This busy scene always takes place at low water, and when it happens on one of those calm evenings which so frequently occur in the summer season, it is impossible to imagine a more exquisite scene. The moon shedding her lustre on the sea displays its surface covered with vessels, sailing or rowing in all directions to the Seine, whilst her beams by striking upon the dripping fish as they are poured, by baskets, from the _tuck net_ into boats,[71] produce an appearance which resembles a stream of liquid silver.

There is another mode of catching Pilchards of "_Driving Nets_,"[72] which are drawn after their respective boats, fastened only at one end; in the meshes of which the fish are arrested as they attempt to pass. This species of fishery is always carried on at a considerable distance from the shore, lest, by approaching too near the land they should disperse the shoals which the _Seiner_ is waiting to enclose. The quantity thus taken is very small; but the fish are remarkably fine, and the expense of the adventure is comparatively trifling.

The fish, having been brought to the fish cellars, undergo the process of being "_cured_;" which is performed by laying them up in broad piles, "_in bulk_," as it is called, and salting them as they are piled up, with bay salt. In this situation they generally remain for forty days, although the time allowed for their lying _in bulk_ is often regulated by the interests of the merchant, who, it may be supposed, is ever ready to avail himself of any favourable turn in the foreign markets. The period directed by Government is that of thirty-three days. During this process a great quantity of oil, blood, and dirty pickle, drains from the fish; and which, from the inclination of the floor, immediately find their way into a receptacle placed for their reception.[73] The Pilchards, when taken from the bulk, are carried to large troughs, in which they are washed, and completely cleansed from the salt, filth, and coagulated oil which they had acquired.[74] They are then packed into hogsheads, and pressed by a strong lever, for the purpose of squeezing out the oil, which issues through a hole at the bottom of the cask; the pressing continues for a week, and formerly ten gallons of oil were procured from every hogshead, but at this time, not more than four can be obtained; such a change in the fatness of the fish is not easily to be explained. The hogsheads are now _headed up_, and exported to the different ports of the Mediterranean, principally to the Italian ports; and upon every hogshead so exported, Government allows a bounty of 8s 6d. Upwards of 30,000 hogsheads are annually consumed in England; and above 100,000 have been exported in one year. The quantity of salt necessary to cure a hogshead of fish is estimated at about 300 lbs. and the expense of the whole for that quantity, including the cask, salt, labour, &c. is from £1:3s to £1:6s; and it has been calculated that the bounty, together with the value of the oil (from £20 to £28 per ton), will in general reimburse the whole expense.

This fishery is in every respect of the highest importance to the county of Cornwall, affording employment to at least twelve thousand persons,[75] whilst the capital engaged cannot be fairly estimated at less than three hundred and fifty, or four hundred thousand pounds.

The broken and refuse fish are sold at about 10d per bushel, for manure, and are used throughout the county with excellent effects, especially for raising all green crops; they are usually mixed with sand, or soil, and sometimes with sea weed, to prevent them from raising too luxuriant a crop, arising from a too rapid decomposition; thus employed their effects are very permanent, and there is a popular belief that a single pilchard will fertilize a foot square of land for several years; and certain it is, that after the apparent exhaustion of this manure, its powers may be again excited by ploughing in a small proportion of _quick lime_, which will produce a still further decomposition of the animal matter, and develope a fresh succession of those elements which are essential to the growth of vegetable substances.

The Herring fishery is also carried on to a great extent at Saint Ives; this fish appears after the pilchard has quitted the shores, and is much smaller than that which is caught on the northern coasts of Britain; which corroborates the general opinion, that the farther it migrates to the south, the more it decreases in size. It is also worthy of remark that, notwithstanding the great abundance of this fish in the Bristol Channel, it very seldom passes the Land's End, and is consequently rarely caught in the Mount's Bay, or on the southern shores of Cornwall.

But let us return from this digression, and proceed with our excursion.--

Quitting Saint Ives by the eastern road, we are conducted along an elevated cliff, which affords a complete command of every object in the bay; in our route we pass _Tregenna Castle_, the seat of Samuel Stephens, Esq. and on the summit of a lofty hill, about a mile from this mansion, stands a pyramid, which immediately attracts the notice of the traveller, as well on account of the singular wildness of its situation, as the complete absence of every shrub, or rural ornament, with which such objects are usually associated. It was erected by the late eccentric John Knill, Esq., a bencher of Gray's Inn, and some time collector of the Port of Saint Ives, it having been intended as a Mausoleum for the reception of his remains, although he afterwards revoked this intention, and ordered his body to be given to an anatomist in London, for dissection. On one side of this pyramid is inscribed, "_Johannes Knill_," on another, "_Resurgam_," and on a third, "_I know that my Redeemer liveth_." He directed in his will, that at the end of every five years, a Matron and ten girls, dressed in white, should walk in procession, with music, from the market house at Saint Ives, to this pyramid, around which they should dance, singing the hundredth Psalm!

----"Pueri circum innuptæque puellæ
Sacra canunt."

For the purpose of keeping up this custom, he bequeathed some freehold lands, which are vested in the officiating minister, the mayor, and the collector of the port of Saint Ives, who are allowed Ten Pounds for a dinner. The first celebration of these _Quinquennial rites_ excited, as may easily be supposed, very considerable interest throughout the western parts of the county.

"No tongue was mute, nor foot was still,
But _One and All_[76] were on the hill,
In chorus round the tomb of Knill."

The report which was drawn up at the time by an eye witness of these festivities, exhibits such an admirable specimen of the _mock Heroic_, that we feel assured that the tourist will thank us for having given insertion to it in the Appendix.

Pursuing the road along the cliff we pass _Lelant_ church, and arrive at the river _Hayle_, which takes its rise near Crowan, and falls into Saint Ives Bay; although it arrives at the level of the sea three miles before it reaches the northern coast, and winds its way through an area of sand, nearly half a mile wide, and more than two miles long; this sand, at high water, is generally submerged, so that the traveller who wishes to cross is obliged to take a circuitous route over the bridge at _Saint Erth_; but upon the ebbing of the tide, it soon becomes fordable, and may be passed over even by foot passengers. It is a curious circumstance that at twelve o'clock at noon, and at midnight, it is _always_ fordable; this apparent paradox is solved by knowing, that at _Spring tides_ it is always low water at these hours, and that the _Neap tides_ never rise sufficiently high to impede the passage.

The Port of Hayle is situated on the eastern side of the river, where a great trade is carried on with Wales for timber, coals,[77] iron, and limestone; and with Bristol, for earthen-ware, groceries, &c. It is also one of the principal places of export for the copper ore of the western mines. In the former edition of this work we described the processes by which the _smelting_ and _refining_ of Copper were conducted at this place, but as it was acknowledged to be much cheaper to carry the ore to the coal, than to bring the coal to the ore, the proprieters found themselves compelled to abandon the speculation. The buildings in the neighbourhood, however, still continue as memorials of the former existence of such works, having been constructed with square masses of the _scoria_,[78] which had been cast into moulds for such purposes, as it issued from the furnace. In the museum of the Geological Society at Penzance the stranger may see an interesting model of this _Copper House_, and of the furnaces employed in the reduction of the ore.

There are now at Hayle two very extensive Iron Founderies, in which are cast the largest engines which have been hitherto erected on mines. They are wrought partly by water, and partly by Steam Engines. Near the Copper House the traveller will not fail to notice the fine back-water dam, which was constructed about thirty years since, for the scouring out of the harbour. The effect has been a considerable reduction of the sand which forms its bottom, so that ships of much greater burden may now enter it. The plan and execution of this work, which was undertaken at the expense of the then existing Hayle Copper Company, reflect great credit on the late _John Edwards, Esq._, who first conceived its practicability and advantage, and under whose direction it was completed. A phenomenon occurred at these works some years ago which afforded a curious illustration of the secret and destroying agency of Galvanic electricity. The flood gates were found to undergo a very rapid decay, which was perfectly inexplicable, until the engineer ascertained that it depended entirely upon the contact of iron and copper bolts and braces, which had been introduced into the different parts of the frame work.

The country around Hayle is entirely desolated with sand, consisting of minutely comminuted marine shells, and which, with some few interruptions extends all along the coast, from Saint Ives to near Padstow, and in many places is drifted into hills of sixty feet in elevation. There can be but little doubt that this sand was originally brought from the sea side by hurricanes, but not even a popular tradition remains of the time or manner of this extensive devastation, which has reached, with some distinct intervals, nearly forty miles in length. Some allusion to this event has been supposed to have been discovered amongst the ancient records of the Arundel family, fixing the period about the twelfth century; but _Mr. Boase_ observes, that the fact of the churches still remaining more or less ingulphed, the age of which does not much exceed three centuries, decisively refutes such a conjecture. On the other hand, it would appear that in the _liber valorum_ of Henry the Eighth, the living of _Gwythian_ was estimated far above its proportion to adjoining parishes. By the shifting of the sand by high winds, the tops of houses, and the ruins of ancient buildings, may be occasionally seen at this very day; and in some places a great number of human bones have been discovered, derived from the cemetries which have been formerly inundated.

The farther progress of the sand flood is at length arrested by extensive plantations of the _Arundo Arenaria_, or common sea rush.[79]

The most important geological circumstance connected with the history of this sand is, that on several parts of the coast, it is passing into the state of a solid compact rock! The fact was first investigated by Dr. Paris, who has published a memoir upon the subject in the first volume of the Transactions of the Geological Society of Cornwall; and as every scientific traveller must be desirous of exploring so interesting a phenomenon we have extracted, from the paper above mentioned, such notices as may be useful in assisting his researches.

"The _Sandstone_ which occurs on the northern coast of Cornwall undoubtedly affords one of the most splendid and instructive instances of a _Recent Formation_ upon record. We actually detect Nature at work in changing calcareous sand into stone; and she does not refuse admittance into her manufactory, nor does she conceal with her accustomed reserve the details of the operations in which she is engaged. It does not however appear that any geologist has fully availed himself of so rare an indulgence;--to drop the allegory, no complete or satisfactory explanation has been hitherto afforded of this most interesting formation, nor of the phenomena which attend it. At the period that Dr. Borlase wrote his History of Cornwall, the science of Chemistry had scarcely dawned; we cannot therefore feel surprised at his having attributed '_the concretion of shelly sand to the agglutinating quality of sea water_'."

"The sand first appears in a slight, but encreasing state of aggregation on several parts of the shore in the Bay of Saint Ives; but on approaching the Gwythian river it becomes more extensively indurated. On the shore opposite to Godrevy Island, an immense mass occurs of more than a hundred feet in depth, containing entire shells and fragments of clay-slate; and it is singular that the whole mass should assume a very striking appearance of stratification. In some places, it appears that attempts have been made to separate it, probably for the purpose of building, for several old houses in Gwythian are entirely built with it. The rocks in the vicinity of this recent formation in the Bay of Saint Ives are _Greenstone_ and _Clay-slate_, which appear to alternate. But it is around the promontory of _New Kaye_, in Fistrel Bay, in the parish of Saint Columb Minor, that the geologist will be most struck with this formation, for here there is scarcely any other rock in sight. The cliffs, which are high and extend for several miles, are wholly composed of it, and are occasionally intersected by veins and dykes of _Breccia_. In the cavities hang calcareous stalactites of rude appearance. The beach is covered with disjointed fragments, which have been detached from the cliff above, many of which weigh at least from two to three tons. The sandstone is also to be here seen in different stages of induration; from a state in which it is too friable to be detached from the rock upon which it reposes without crumbling, to a hardness so considerable as to require a very violent blow from a hammer to break it;[80] indeed holes are actually bored in some parts for the purpose of admitting cables with which vessels are moored. Buildings are here commonly constructed of it, and the church of Crantock is entirely built with it. By the inhabitants the stone is employed for various articles of domestic and rural oeconomy."

"The Geologist, who has previously examined the celebrated specimen from Guadaloupe, enclosing a human skeleton, and which is now in the British Museum, will be forcibly struck with the great similitude which this stone bears to it; and suspecting that masses might be found containing human bones imbedded, if a diligent search were made in the vicinity of those cemetries which have been overwhelmed, I made an excursion with my friend Sir Christopher Hawkins, for that purpose; but time and patience failed us, and the discovery is reserved for some more persevering and fortunate member of the society."

"Such then is the nature and situation of this most interesting formation. In the next place, we have to enquire into the causes which have operated in thus consolidating the sand, and into the peculiar circumstances under which the operation has been conducted."

"It will appear that there are at least three distinct modes by which the _lapidification_ of calcareous sand may be effected, and that the present formation is capable of affording characteristic examples of each."

"The three species of cementing matter to which I allude, are all deposited from water in which they either exist chemically dissolved, or mechanically suspended. The water deriving them from the substances through which it percolates; thus is the first species of cement obtained--

1. _By the percolation of water, through a stratum of calcareous
sand, by which it becomes impregnated with carbonate of lime._

2. _By the percolation of water through strata containing
decomposing Sulphurets; by which it becomes impregnated with
Sulphuric salts._

3. _By the percolation of water through decomposing Clay-slate, or
any other ferruginous strata; by which it becomes impregnated with
Iron, Alumina, and other mineral matter._

In the first case, the very small proportion of carbonate of lime which is held in solution will necessarily render it a powerful cement, since the density and compactness of a precipitate will generally vary, inversely as the rapidity with which it is deposited. This fact is familiarly illustrated by the obstinate adhesion of calcareous incrustations to the interior surfaces of water decanters. In the second case, wherein a sulphuric salt would appear to act the part of a cement, it may be observed, that the _sulphatization of pyrites in the presence of calcareous matter is a very general source of gypsum_. The granular gypsum from the Falls of Niagara, which is described by Dr. Kidd as being "as white as snow," owes its origin to a natural process of this decomposition; for I am informed by Dr. Maclure of Philadelphia, who has visited the spot, that it is formed in consequence of the action of water upon decomposing slate, which contains numerous veins of _carbonate of lime_ and _sulphate of iron_. I have also in my possession a series of incrustations which were taken out of steam boilers in Cornwall, one of which presents an admirable instance of the formation of _sulphate of lime_, its surface being beautifully studded with its crystals; the water which supplied the boiler, and by the evaporation of which this substance was deposited, was derived from a mine in clay-slate intersected with veins of _Pyrites_ and _carbonate of lime_."

"With regard to the third species of cementing matter, viz. _Oxide of Iron_, it is scarcely necessary to state, that in the induration of mineral bodies Iron has been long known to act a very important part; the most superficial observer must have noticed the concretions which so frequently appear on the beach around a rusty nail, or any fragment of iron, while the mineralogist must be acquainted with the proofs which Mr. Kirwan has collected in support of the fact. Nor is the part which it performs in the disintegration of mineral bodies less obvious; by its agency we have seen a loose sand become a hard rock, but if we extend our inquiry we shall find that _Iron_ by attracting a farther proportion of _oxygen_ from air or moisture, soon crumbles into dust, and thus proves the immediate cause of the decomposition of that very rock, of which it formerly constituted the indurating ingredient. In this, as in every other operation, Nature preserves her uniformity, producing the most diversified and opposite effects by the modified application of the same principles."

For this long digression we feel conscious that some apology is necessary; the extreme interest as well as novelty of the phenomenon will at once suggest a sufficient excuse to the geologist; and to other observers it may at least be pleaded in extenuation, that they have lost nothing by the delay, for it has been in a district which offers but few objects of amusement or instruction.

About a mile and a half south-east of Hayle is _Huel Alfred_, which was some years ago one of the richest and most profitable Copper mines in the county. The adventurers gained a clear profit of nearly £130,000 during the period in which it was wrought. In the year 1816, from various causes, this mine was stopped, but about six months ago a company of London gentlemen embarked in the concern, and commenced their operations in a very spirited manner. Before Midsummer 1824, they expect to set at work two steam-engines with cylinders of the immense size of 90 inches in diameter, and one of less dimensions. This mine will undoubtedly prove attractive and interesting to the mineralogist, as, during the last period of working, several curious and rare minerals were discovered, as _Stalactitic_, _swimming_, and _cubic quartz_; _carbonate_, and _phosphate of Lead_; _stalactitic_, _botryoidal_, and _investing Calcedony_, &c. The lodes of this mine are so large that should the stranger intend to visit the interior of the earth, he cannot select a better opportunity.

About a mile east of _Huel Alfred_ are situated the _Herland Mines_, which, after an interval of twenty years, have been lately set at work again. The adventurers in these mines are also principally London capitalists, who have erected two steam-engines of which the cylinders are 80 inches in diameter. The mineralogist will not fail to visit mines which were celebrated for the beautiful specimens of _Native Silver_, _Vitreous Silver ore_, and _black oxide of Silver_, found there during the last period of its working, an account of which, by the Rev. M. Hitchins, was published in the Philosophical Transactions for the year 1801.

There is a remarkable contrast between the lodes of _Huel Alfred_ and those of _Herland_. The former being few, but very large; the latter, small but very numerous, and the ore peculiarly rich.

The stranger may now proceed to Redruth, between which place and Hayle, there is a regular line of rich Copper mines, but as we propose to examine this metalliferous district in a future excursion, we shall return by _Saint Erth_ to Penzance.