Chapter I: Voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro (8)

The vegetable _matte_ is a large shrub or bush, with leaves similar to an orange tree, and tastes of mallows; it is said the serra Maracaju produces the best. It is usual not to wait for the leaves falling, but they are plucked, and then dried by some of the most approved methods, generally upon hides between two fires. This plant is taken almost like tea, and the use of this beverage has prevailed from time immemorial amongst the Indians of the northern part of this province. It was they who introduced it amongst the first inhabitants of Assumption.

ZOOLOGY.--This province is prodigiously abundant in cattle, horses, and mules; sheep are numerous, but goats few. There is a sufficiency of hogs for the consumption of the inhabitants. Amongst the wild quadrupeds are remarked the ounce, the deer, the monkey, the fox, the rabbit, the cat, the _tamandua_, _quaty_, _zorrilha_, or squash, the _tatous_, or armadillo, _paca_, _cotia_, and the boar. Of birds, the emu ostrich, the _seriema_, _jaburu_, _cegonha_, _garca_, _mutun_, _jacu_, _colhereira_, _urubu_, _tucano_, _rola_, troquaze pigeons, the parrot, _codornize_, or quail, _beija-flor_, or humming-bird, the _guiraponga_, and the partridge. There are also a diversity of wild ducks and geese.

The principal _povoações_ are, Assumpçao, or Assumption, Correntes, Coruguaty, and Villa Rica.

Assumpçao, an episcopal city, is in a state of mediocrity, possessing some commerce. It is the capital and the residence of the governor, and is situated upon the margin of the Paraguay, which daily washes away a part of the ground upon which it is built. It is ornamented with a hospital, with convents of the Dominicans, Franciscans, Mercenarians, Recoletos, (rigid friars,) and a seminary which was a Jesuitical college. This city has no regularity nor fine edifices; the greater part of the houses are built of earth, and many of the inhabitants of its three parishes are descended from the Portuguese. From hence is exported tobacco, _imbe_, timber, and a prodigious quantity of matte to Buenos Ayres, where it is afterwards packed in hides, and distributed over various Spanish districts, being a beverage universally used amongst them, as well as by the Portuguese in the southern parts of Brazil. In its environs are bred numerous herds of large cattle. There are plantations of cotton and the cane. Honey and wax are abundant. They cultivate also, as in other parts, _aipim_, or _pompim_, as it is called here, which root, after being scraped, chopped, and dried in the oven, is cooked with meat, serving for bread. The maize, or Indian corn, after it is boiled, and beat in a pestle, is passed through a sifter, kneaded with milk, and baked, when it receives the name of _chippa_.

The bishop is a suffragan of La Plata, otherwise _chuquissaca_. The chapter of the church, as in all other ultramarine cathedrals of the Spanish states, is composed of twelve canons, including the moderator of the Inquisition, five dignitaries, the dean, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer-mór, and master of the college; also six petty canons to sing the Evangelists, and as many more half petty canons for the Epistles, whose vestments differ little from the others. The canons of theology, doctorial, magisterial, and penitentiary, only give graduates, and that by competition. The revenue of the suppressed canonship is destined for the expenses of the tribunal of the holy office.

There are two tribunals, one called the _Junta Decimal_, for the public disposal of the decimos, and consisting of two canons, a royal fiscal, a minister clothed with a _toga_, or gown, an accountant, and an _escrivao_, or scrivener. The other denominated _Meza Capitular_, for the collection and distribution of the proceeds of the decimos, is formed of a _provisor_, or vicar-general, a canon, acting at times as a fiscal, the _contador-mor_, or chief accountant of the treasury, and another accountant to make the distribution or rates.

All the produce of the decimos is appropriated to the church. In calculating this, the chief accountant of the treasury divides it into nine equal parts; one and a half, under the name of _noveno e medio_, belongs to the crown, and is destined for the repairs and other necessities of the church; and which the sovereign, as patron, gives by way of succour. Of the other seven and a half parts, one-half is for the bishop, whose duty is to relieve the necessities of the diocesans, especially the poor ones, collected in the house erected for their habitation, because none of them are permitted to solicit alms _pelas portas_, at the doors.

The residue is divided into three equal fifths, one for the dean, the remainder subdivided anew into three, two are distributed amongst the other dignitaries and the canons, with arithmetical proportion. The part remaining is portioned equally amongst the petty canons, and the half petty canons, or chaplains. The priests of the cities are denominated _reytors_, or rectors, and those of the towns, _vigarios_, or vicars. The padres only of the Indians have revenues, (_congrua_,) drawn from the coffers where the produce of the Indian lands that are sold, and the rents of the _emprazadas_, (persons paying an annual fine for lands bought,) are deposited. They receive nothing from the parishioners, except for the solemnization of burials.

The priests of the churches of the whites (_brancos_) alone have the altarage, (or free offerings of the people made at the altar,) and the productions of the patrimonies with which they were founded.

The churches are given after a competition of talent exhibited before the bishop. The competitors are convoked by him and the vice-patron, who is the governor, and without whose consent nothing can be decided in these cases. In order to fill up a vacancy, the bishop proposes three, the choice from which belongs to the vice-patron, if he does not reject the whole, and demand a proposal of others for his choice.

Correntes is a small city, advantageously situate in the southern angle of the confluence of the river Paranna, ornamented with a convent of Dominicans, one of Franciscans, and a third of Mercenarians, having straight streets, and many houses with one story. The Jesuitical house is in ruins. Amongst its inhabitants, there are some Portuguese, many Indians, and a few negroes. In its vicinity there is much marshy land, and very extensive woods. Cattle and horses are the wealth of the country. _Mandubins_, Indian corn, vegetables, water-melons, and cotton, are the objects of culture. The land is neither adapted for wheat nor matte. The ants and locusts, which are extremely numerous, destroy the mandioca, and prevent its cultivation. The _pitangueira_, or _pitangua_ tree, is very abundant; peaches are not met with. The _imbagay_ is a fruit similar to the mango, but something smaller, and found from hence northward. Hides and timber are the principal articles of exportation. Mosquitoes are extremely troublesome here.

Justice is daily administered by two _alcaldes_, or magistrates, assisted by two _assessores_, or lawyers. The four are elected annually by a judicial _cabildo_, composed of twenty-four governors for perpetuity, except in the event of delinquency; four of whom are principals, namely the royal ensign, the deacon, an officer called the _aguazil maior_, and the provincial alcalde. The others are ordinaries, each with his inspection, presided by an assessor-general, called _tenente assessor_, (lieutenant assessor.) There is an advocate named by the _audiencia_, or audience-court of the province, for the purpose of defending _gratis_ the causes of the poor, or those who do not possess a patrimony of a certain value, and also of prisoners, although they may be rich.

Ten leagues to the north of Correntes is the parish of Nehembuçu, on the margin of the Paraguay, where they build boats and different sorts of vessels. Thirty leagues to the south of Correntes is situated the village and parish of St. Luzia, also upon the margin of the Paraguay; in its district there is _gesso_, a species of plaster, which forms a branch of exportation. In this interval are the parishes of Algarrobas, Esquina, and Goya, abounding sufficiently in meat and fish.

Bagada de St. Fé, and commonly called Paranna, is a small village situated upon the Paraguay, in front of St. Fé, in view of an island of considerable extent. From hence is exported a good deal of limestone.

Coruguaty is a middling town, and celebrated for the large quantity of matte collected in its district, of which it is the deposit. It is situated about thirty leagues to the north-east of Assumption, and three miles distant from the left margin of the river from which it borrows the name.

Five leagues to the north of it is the _prezidio_ or garrison of St. Miguel, established in order to obstruct the invasions of the Guaycuru Indians.

Villa Rica, where also is accumulated large quantities of matte, lying twenty leagues to the south-east of Assumption, is yet small. There is another place of the same name on the borders of the Paraguay, to the north of the capital.

Arroio da China is a middling town, situated on the banks of the Uruguay, more than thirty leagues above its embouchure. Its inhabitants, mainly white people, breed cattle and cultivate corn and fruit.

Itaty is a small town, but regular, and well situated upon the southern bank of the Paranna, about thirty leagues above Correntes. Its inhabitants consist of Indians and some white people; a portion occupy themselves in potteries, and others in forming plantations of the cotton tree. The soil and climate are adapted for oranges and water-melons, which prosper abundantly.

In the country of the missions is to be remarked the following places.

Candellaria, which took the name from its magnificent church, as did almost all the _reduçōes_ of the pretended Guaranitic kingdom, or the missions of the Paranna, of which it was always considered the capital, in consequence of its superior size and population. It is situate upon the left bank of the river Paranna, where it inclines to the west, near the mouth of a small river.

Corpus, also on the left margin of the same river, is fifteen leagues to the north of Candellaria, and is the most northern of the missions, situated upon the Paranna, and one of the handsomest in the province.

Between the two preceding are situated those of St. Gosme, St. Anna, St. Gosme Velho, Nosso Senhora do Loreto, and St. Ignaçio Menor, (the smaller.) This last is three leagues above the preceding one, and four below Corpus.

The Padre Xarque, says the _reduções_ of Nosso Senhora do Loreto and St. Ignaçio Menor, were founded for the establishments of the twelve thousand Indians, which the Jesuits conducted from the Upper Paranna, when the Paulistas invaded the country.

Itu, upon the same margin of the Paranna, is fifteen leagues to the west of Candellaria.

Assumpçao is fifteen leagues, with little variation, to the south-west of Corpus, near the mouth of a small river that loses itself in the Uruguay.

Conceiçao is situated sixteen leagues to the south of the preceding one, and little more than three leagues distant from the river Uruguay.

St. Thomas is fifteen leagues distant, in a southern direction, from Conceiçao.

St. Maria Maior is a few leagues to the north of Conceiçao, also upon the margin of the Uruguay.

Apostolos is little more than six leagues to the west of Conceiçao, upon the road which leads towards Itu; and twenty miles further in the same direction upon this road St. Carlos is situated.

St. Francisco Xavier is a few leagues to the north of St. Maria, and to the east of Candellaria. In this interval Martyres is situated.

Itapuan is on the right bank of the Paranna, to the north of Candellaria. Trinidade is eight leagues to the north of Itapuan. St. Ignaçio Guassu (the larger) is near the head of a branch of the river Tibiquary. It is the most ancient of the whole.

St. Fé is five leagues to the north-east of St. Ignaçio Guassu. The mission of Jesus is four leagues to the north-north-west of Trinidad.

St. Roza is six leagues to the east of St. Ignaçio Guassu; St. Gosme four leagues to the south-east of St. Roza.

St. Tiago is eight leagues to the north of Itu; and Yapegu, which is the most southern, and amongst the largest of the missions, is situated near the Uruguay, a little below the confluence of the Ibicui, and half a league to the north of the river Guavirida. The Jesuits had a college here richly ornamented.

CHAP. VII.

PROVINCE OF URUGUAY.

_Foundation of Aldeias, called Missions, by the Spanish
Jesuits for the Tappe Indians--Flourish till the Expulsion
of that Sect--Subsequent Decay--War between the Spaniards
and Portuguese--Conquest of the Seven Missions by the latter
Power in 1801--Governor sent--Boundaries--Mountains--Rivers
--Phytology--Zoology--Names and Population of the Seven
Missions at their Conquest._

In the beginning of the seventeenth century, the Spanish Jesuits entered the territory to the east of the river Uruguay, and there founded seven large villages, called _reduçōes_, for the habitation of various hordes of Tappes, the possessors of the country, in order the better to civilize and bring them to Christianity, by the same means as were practised with those of the Paranna. It has been already stated, that, in the treaty of limits of 1750, the exchange of these missions for Colonia do Sacramento was agreed upon by their Faithful and Catholic Majesties; and also, that the Jesuits frustrated its execution in the first instance, and that, on the sudden return to Rio de Janeiro, of Gomes Freyre d’Andrade, in 1756, things soon reverted to their anterior state.

These _reduçōes_, which made a part of the spiritual Jesuitical kingdom, flourished to the period of the expulsion of their founders, when they began to decay, and thirty-four years of deterioration, by imperceptible degrees, could not have transformed the whole more effectually; in which state they were, in effect, at the beginning of the present century, when the declaration of war between the two crowns in Europe, caused the arming of the inhabitants of the capitania of Rio Grande de St. Pedro, who, since the peace of 1777, had lived in tranquillity.

Almost at the same time that the Portuguese troops of the town of St. Pedro passed the river of St. Gonçalo, in 1801, against the Spanish posts, in the vicinity of the western margin of the lake of Patos, a corps of Portuguese militia and deserters, attracted by the amnesty, were put in motion upon the frontiers of the river Pardo; amongst the latter of which appeared Joze Borges do Canto, a native of the country, and who had deserted from a regiment of dragoons. He immediately offered to go and commence hostilities in the Spanish territories, on being granted some comrades and the necessary arms. Ammunition only was conceded to him, with the liberty of assembling such people together as would join his standard. Having formed a battalion of forty men, armed at their own expense, he marched direct to the missions of Uruguay, and, encountering on the road a known Indian, who was retiring discontented from the Spaniards, he received from him the certain intelligence that the Indians, on hearing of the war, would not hesitate to subject themselves to the crown of Portugal, as almost all the Indian population lived unhappily under their present government. Canto persuaded the Indian to return, and announce to his compatriots the opportunity which was now presented of freeing themselves from the Spanish yoke, and of passing under the protection of the Faithful Crown, and to inform them, that he would afford all necessary assistance. The Indian, convinced of this, accompanied them to within sight of St. Miguel, where there was a lieutenant-colonel, commanding a trench which he had formed in apprehension of an attack from the Portuguese.

Having arrived thus far at day-break, Canto sent the Indian forward by a bye-way, with orders to bring him what information he could, to a certain situation, whither he should continue to march. As the place was very near to the trench, Canto and his party were discovered by the sentinel, who called out to arms. Under these circumstances, Canto saw himself obliged to advance without order against the entrenched, who were in greater disorder; and after discharging a few shots they abandoned the fortification, retiring to the town, where the commandant was, and leaving this intrepid squadron masters of the trench, with ten pieces of artillery.

The commandant supposing himself to be attacked by a great number of another class of combatants, offered a capitulation to the chief of the conquerors, who willingly conceded almost all that was asked, in order that the Spaniards might leave the country before a reinforcement arrived, or before they knew that it was only forty adventurers, without any corps of reserve, from whom they had fled. The commandant was a good deal perplexed, at the execution of the articles of capitulation, when Canto, being asked for his degree of rank, replied that he was the lowest soldier in the Portuguese army. At this time the Indians of the place had already united with the Portuguese, and the adjustment of the treaty was indispensable.

The Spaniards on retiring experienced the misfortune of falling into the hands of a similar party, who took them prisoners, and all that was conceded to them, against which the commandant protested, and demanded the fulfilment of the capitulation. The Spanish officer called upon Canto for an adjustment, who replied, that he could not interfere, inasmuch as the party were not subordinate to him, but that he would report the affair to the governor of Rio Grande, and all that he ordered should be executed; the party in the mean time remaining prisoners.

The governor, on receiving the account, ordered Canto to fulfil the capitulation, excepting the article that gave up the artillery; which, he said, ought to belong to his Royal Highness, and to whom he had given a detail of Canto’s valorous deeds, in order that he might be rewarded. In the mean time he made him captain of a new company of militia; and the person who brought the standard a lieutenant, giving him too the liberty of naming for ensign one of his brave companions.

As soon as the people of the other missions had witnessed the comportment of Canto towards the first that had submitted to him, almost all hastened to acknowledge the Faithful Crown. The happy conqueror released them from some public contributions, which were the most heavy upon them, and, freely giving up to them the fruits of their labour, received the name of Liberator.

Shortly after the governor sent Major Joaquim Felis to govern the conquest, with orders to confer with Canto, upon the state of affairs. Having delivered the new province to the commandant, and received a good reinforcement of regular troops, with some militia and volunteers from the serra above, he obtained permission of the governor to pass to the other side of the Uruguay; for which purpose some barks of skins were made according to the fashion of the country.

In the night of the 1st of November, eighty men, chosen from the army, passed the river, amongst whom figured some grenadiers of the regiment of Estremoz; and whose chief was a brave ensign, well known by his surname of Padilha. Part of them took up a position in a wood; others proceeded a little way up the river, keeping near its banks, in order to give more prompt succour to the first on the signal of attack, which began in the morning, against those who first entered the plain. The assailants, together with thirty Spaniards, who came to their succour, were put to flight, but immediately returned in larger numbers, with three field pieces, with which they laboured to open out both their wings. However, the Portuguese did not give them time for a second discharge, but falling intrepidly upon them, they put them to the rout, taking their cannon, nine prisoners, and leaving fifteen dead upon the field.

On the 23d of the same month, almost at midnight, a cannon was discharged in the Passo dos Barros, which is about three leagues below St. Borja, where it was heard; and from whence afterwards arrived an Indian, living in that neighbourhood, with information to the Portuguese, that the Spaniards were stationed in the woods, near the same pass. They remained the rest of the night under arms. The following morning Captain Joze Borges do Canto put himself in march for this point, with his company and some others, amounting to one hundred and ten men; and finding the Spaniards entrenched in the woods on the banks of the river, and not discovering any advantageous mode of attacking them, sent his lieutenant with thirty men dressed in white according to the Indian fashion, which marching at a great distance from the Spaniards, and having gained their rear, began firing upon them. The first discharges were the signal for the captain to invest the fortification, which was abandoned without any resistance, the Spaniards leaving seventy-four prisoners.

Such was the success of the campaign, on the part of the Portuguese, in this district, and the mode by which the Portuguese crown possessed itself of the province of the Seven Missions, which made a part of that of Rio Grande de St. Pedro, until a governor was named to it. It is confined on the north by that of St. Paulo; on the west by that of Paranna; and on the south and east by the province of Rio Grande de St. Pedro.

MOUNTAINS.--St. Martinho, the most elevated portion of the serra, which serves for its eastern limits, and the mountain of St. Luiz, in the vicinity of the town of its name, are the most remarkable mountains.

RIVERS.--Besides the Uruguay and Ibicui, already mentioned, is to be remarked the Hyjuhy, which originates at the base of the mountain of St. Martinho, traverses the province from east to west, empties itself into the Uruguay in front of Assumption, and a few leagues to the north of St. Nicolau, having passed near St. Angelo, a little below which the Hyjuhy-mirim enters it on the left side.

The Toropy rises in the same cordillera and falls into the Ibicui. The Jaquari waters a considerable portion of this province, and falls into the Ibicui four or five leagues below the Forquilha. The Hibipita enters the Ibicui also twenty leagues below the preceding.

The Piratini forms itself in the vicinity of the said serra, passes a short distance from St. Miguel, and runs into the Uruguay a little below St. Nicolau.

PHYTOLOGY.--The Brazilian pine and the cedar are not numerous. The cotton tree, the _matte_, and mandioca, also Indian corn, wheat, potatoes, with other edible roots, are cultivated; likewise, gourds, water-melons, pine-apples, and divers hortulans; and, among fruit trees, the orange, _pitangua_, and peach.

ZOOLOGY.--The animals, both domestic and wild, are the same as those of the adjoining provinces.

The Tappes are a horde of Guaranis, which separated from the latter in former times, and lived for a long period upon the banks of the higher Paranna, where they were at times invaded by the others. It is, however, certain that they occupied the southern part of this province when the Jesuits began to have a knowledge of them. They were esteemed a people, not only less vicious than all other tribes in South America, but the best disposed to receive the evangelical law, most constant after having embraced it, and the best adapted to honour Christianity. These people lived divided into various villages, of which the most populous had the name of the nation. It is not known what were the number of those villages, which the Jesuits reduced to seven; and on this account were denominated _reduçōes_, or reductions, also missions. The names of these seven celebrated missions, are the following, with the number of inhabitants in each at the period of their conquest by the Portuguese in 1801:--

INHABITANTS.
St. Francisco de Borja 1,300
St. Miguel 1,900
St. Joam 1,600
St. Angelo 1,960
St. Nicolau 3,940
St. Lourenço 960
St. Luiz 2,350

St. Francisco de Borja, which is the most southern, is two miles distant from the Uruguay, and five leagues from the confluence of Ibicui. It suffered much by an invasion from the Minuanos, a little before changing its dominion. It has many white people.

St. Miguel, situated twenty-five leagues distant from the Uruguay, and thirty east-north-east from St. Borja, is the most easterly, and is considered the capital of the province. A great portion of it was consumed by fire, which its inhabitants set to it in 1756, when they saw the combined armies arriving in order to deliver the province up to the Portuguese crown.

St. Joam is three leagues north of St. Miguel. Its mother church is in the centre of a vast square. In the time of its prosperity it had forty streets.

St. Angelo, which is the most northerly, is six leagues to the north of St. Joam.

St. Nicolau, formerly capital of the various reductions upon the right bank of the Uruguay, is situated near that river and a small brook which falls into the Paratini.

St. Lourenço is six leagues to the west of St. Miguel.

St. Luiz is upon the road which goes from St. Lourenço to St. Nicolau, nine leagues to the east of the latter place, and ten to the west of the former. All these reductions, otherwise missions, and which we ought to call towns, as they have a senate, took the name of the patron of their mother churches. The whole were and yet are upon the same plan, the houses of earth, with straight streets, and verandas on the sides, which protect them against the rain and heat, similar to the missions of the Paranna, with which in equal steps they reached a flourishing condition, and fell with them into a state of decay.

Each place has its peculiar Guaranitic dialect, differing little from the others. Many of these Indians understand the Spanish and Portuguese, and express themselves tolerably well in both languages. They exercise almost all the requisite manual occupations and various mechanical arts with intelligence; likewise manufacture coarse woollens and cottons. Matte is the only article of exportation.

In each mission, when governed by the Jesuits, there was a school for reading, writing, and speaking the Spanish language by royal order. There were many Indians who could read Spanish books which they did not understand, as the masters or curates artfully refrained from uttering a word to them, but in Guaranitic. In consequence of which, these crafty preceptors were charged to fulfil the royal determination, by a decree of 1743, but which decree had not the desired effect.

CHAP. VIII.

PROVINCE OF ST. CATHARINA.

_Boundaries--Colonization--Productions--Mountains--
Mineralogy--Phytology--Zoology--Rivers, Lakes, and
Ports--Towns, Parishes, &c.--Agricultural
Establishments--Population--Islands--Delightful Climate._

This province, which is a dismemberment of that of St. Paulo, subsequent to the latter receiving the addition of a part of St. Amaro and of St. Vincente, comprehends the island which gives it the name, and a territory of sixty leagues from north to south on the neighbouring continent, reckoning from the Sahy, which separates it from St. Paulo on the north, to the Mampituba, which divides it from the province of Rio Grande on the south; on the west it has the same provinces, the heads of the cordillera, running parallel with the sea, constituting a boundary on that side. Its greatest width does not exceed twenty leagues, occupying the Beira-Mar, or sea-coast, of the greatest portion of the ci-devant capitania of St. Amaro; and lying between 25° 50′, and 29° 20′ south latitude.

A period of one hundred and twenty years elapsed without the donatories establishing any colonists in the island of St. Catharina, which, for some time had the name of Isle of Patos. King John IV. gave it, in the year 1654, to Francisco Dias Velho, who was assassinated by an English pirate at the time the establishment began. In consequence of this disaster, the island long remained in its primitive state. Eventually, various colonists from the Azores were established in it, at the cost of the crown.

The climate is delightfully temperate and salubrious, with the exception of certain marshy situations. The face of the country is mountainous, watered by numerous rivers, and overspread with woods. The soil is fertile and well adapted to the culture of mandioca, Indian corn, rice, sugar, coffee, flax, and vegetables. Wheat and barley are likewise grown in some districts. All the hortulans of the south of Europe prosper here, particularly onions.

MOUNTAINS.--Camberella, which is upon the southern entrance of the port of the capital, is the highest mountain seen from Santo to the _Torres_[18] or Towers. The mountain of Bahul is a land-mark for navigators.

MINERALOGY.--Calcareous stones, granite, _pedras d’amolar_, or whetstone. It is said there are indications of gold and other metals.

PHYTOLOGY.--The oak tree is here more diversified than in the mother country, and excellent for building. The sassafras, cedar, _loiro_, _pau d’arco_, and those called _guarabu_ and _grapecique_, are trees of precious wood, well adapted for cabinet work; likewise the tree denominated here _pau d’oleo_, having the grain close and nicely waved. The Brazilian pine is numerous in various districts. There are a diversity of medicinal plants; likewise the plant that nurtures the cochineal, which has been fully described by many writers. It is an insect, and feeds upon the leaves of the _opuncia_; its size is so diminutive at first, that it scarcely can be seen, but it soon moves and fixes upon a part of the plant, from which it does not remove, and becomes gradually covered with a white skin, so that the body, which is scarlet, is no longer seen. In three months it arrives at maturity, and is not larger than a small pea; there are various modes of cultivating it, and great care is required to keep off other insects which destroy it. This is an article of considerable commerce and might be cultivated to a great extent in the Brazil.

ZOOLOGY.--Cattle do not abound in consequence of the mountainous nature of the country. Amongst other wild quadrupeds, are well known the deer, the _tamandua_, the monkey, the boar, the _ounce_, the _anta_, the _paca_, and the _quaty_. Amongst numerous species of birds are remarked the parrot, the macuco partridge, the _rola_, or turtle, the _guara_, and various sorts of the humming bird called _colibri_, or _beija-flor_. The lakes abound with wild ducks and geese. An infinite variety of beautiful butterflies are seen in this province, to delight the eye, and engage the research of the naturalist. The air appears filled with floating flowers.

RIVERS, LAKES, AND PORTS.--The first are generally of a short extent. About three miles north-north-east of the Towers is the mouth of the Mampituba, about one hundred fathoms wide, which was called for some time the Martim Affonso. It is not more than seven leagues long, being formed of various streams that descend from the cordillera; its current is violent, but sumacas, or smacks, ascend with the tide twelve miles to the port of Forquilhas. By its northern margin it receives the waters of a lake, which is about five leagues long, and one broad, extending parallel with the sea-coast as far as the Campos das Lagoinhas, from thence it has another outlet to the sea, by a channel called Arroyo Grande.

Near the situation denominated the Conventos, there is a serro of rock moderately elevated, and terminating in a platform near the beach, about six leagues distant from the Mambituba. Six miles further, the river Ararangua enters the sea, and is navigable for the space of five leagues to the Tres Portos, where it is one hundred fathoms wide, and deeper than at the bar, having a rapid current from the month of June to September. Three leagues beyond the preceding, the river Urussanga disembogues, being more extensive, and much more rapid when its waters are high; no vessel can enter its mouth, in consequence of the sea breaking with great violence upon a bank which crosses it. Higher up it is wider, and has four fathoms of depth in some places. This river communicates with a large and deep lake, where the _boto_ and other large fish are seen, which come up from the ocean; it lies northward of the river. Five leagues further is the rock of St. Martha, where the coast changes its direction to the north. Three leagues to the north of the Morro, or rock of St. Martha, is the spacious bay of Laguna, formerly the river Da Lagoa, (of the Lake) which is the mouth of the river Tubarao, and together the outlet of various lakes, prolonged in a chain parallel with the ocean, and at no considerable distance from it. This river rises in the serra that bounds this province, and its current is rapid from April to September. Canoes proceed up it a distance of eight or nine leagues to Porto da Guarda; but _sumacas_ do not pass the mouth of the river Capibary, which joins it by the left bank, and is navigable for a space of eight leagues to Pouzo Alto. On the northern margin of the Tubarao is the outlet of the great lake Laguna, which is five leagues long from north to south, near two at the greatest width, and is of sufficient depth for sumacas, as far as its northern extremity. On the southern bank of the Tubarao, in front of the outlet of the Laguna, is that of the lake of St. Martha, which lake is a quarter of a league square. On its southern side the lake Garopaba discharges itself, is about the same size, and one league distant. Into the latter the outlet of the lake Jaguaruna disembogues, which is two leagues further to the southward, and a little larger. The three together afford a passage to large canoes, as far as the river Congonhas, which is not considerable, and empties itself into the western margin of the latter lake. They are comprehended under the name of the lakes of Camacho, and abound in fish.

On the western side of the Laguna, and near its northern extremity, the river Una discharges itself, and affords navigation to canoes for some leagues, as far as the rock of St. Joam. An arm of this river extends a league and a half to the north, is deep, and terminates in a morass.

In front of the embouchure of the Laguna is the small island of Lobos. Four leagues to the north is the point and port of the Embituba, and two farther is the mouth of the river Piraquera, which is the outlet of the lake of the same name, otherwise Encantada, four miles long and one wide.

Continuing onward, the river Embahu is met with, which at its mouth is only eight fathoms wide, but it gradually increases to more than eighty fathoms; canoes can proceed up during a day’s voyage.

Two miles farther to the north is the point of Pinheira, which is followed by the gulf of the same name, being the southern entrance to the channel of the island of St. Catharina; its southern extremity is a league to the north of the said point.

Near six miles to the north of Point Pinheira, the Massambu disembogues, being thirty fathoms wide, and of considerable depth, but of short extent: Rio Dom Rodrigo was its first designation. After it follows a small bay, called Brito, and a little farther is the entrance of the river Cubatao, sixty fathoms wide, up which larger canoes proceed during two days’ voyage. In the proximity of this river there are various fountains of hot water, having different degrees of heat: the most distant one, situated five leagues up the river, possesses one hundred and two degrees.

After passing various small rivers, the river Maruhy is met with, as large as the preceding one, and navigable to the place denominated Guarda. Near this river is the bay of St. Joze. A little to the north is a straight, which divides the channel into two almost equal parts; and a little farther is the entrance of the river Biguassu, fifty fathoms in width, and up which canoes proceed for many leagues. The first discoverers called it the river of Patos, in consequence of its constituting a limit between the Indians of that name, who extended themselves as far as the St. Pedro, and the Carijos to the north as far as Cannanea.

The large bay of St. Miguel follows; afterwards, the point of Armacao; and, farther on, that of Ganchos, which lies east and west of the extremity of the island of St. Catharina, and is to the southward of the spacious bay of Tejucas, at the farther end of which the river of the same name discharges itself, being fifty fathoms wide, and affording two days’ navigation. The surrounding country of the bay of Tejucas is a morass or marshy plain in the winter, when its passage is attended with great labour and inconvenience.

To the north of the preceding is the bay of Guaroupas, open to the north-east, not so large, but sufficiently sheltered and capacious for the reception of a squadron of ships; the river Bupeba runs into it, as well as the two Pireques. The intervening land of those two bays is a peninsula, which extends to the sea, terminating in three points, and forming two small bays.

Proceeding northward, the next river is the Cambory-Guassu, rapid at its entrance into the sea, and being twenty fathoms in width. Nearly three leagues farther is the embouchure of the great river Tajahy, which is little less than sixty fathoms in width at the passage a short distance from the beach. It is the only river met with on the road from Portalegre to St. Paulo that flows towards the east; the _sumacas_ proceed up only three miles, launches and large canoes navigate freely as far as the first fall. About one hundred and twenty yards above it becomes navigable for the space of three days, by towing, and as many more with the oar, to the next cataract. It rises between the river Negro and the Correntes, (which run to westward.) In its neighbourhood there are many small mountains. The principal confluents which enlarge it are the Rio de Luiz Alves (which comes from the north-west, runs near the mountain of Bahul, seen from the sea at a great distance, and is navigable for small canoes) and the Tajahy Mirim, which runs from the south-west, navigable for canoes about ten leagues. The whole flow through countries of great fertility.

Five miles farther to the north is the river Gravata, otherwise Iriri-Guassu, thirty fathoms wide, and navigable for canoes. It is followed by the spacious bay of Itapacoroya, where there is an establishment for whale fishing. Proceeding onwards, the Iriri Mirim and the Camboriu are met with, up which canoes also navigate with the aid of the tide. Near to the latter is the Tajuba, a river of a similar class.

Three leagues to the north of the Itapacoroya the river Itapicu disembogues, being fifty fathoms wide, and of considerable depth. Its origin is far back in the province, and affords navigation to small canoes for many leagues, without the interruption of more than one cataract, which is situated ten miles above the mouth. The agitated state of the sea at the mouth of this river does not permit the entrance of any description of vessel. Immediately beyond the bar it forms a lake, called Lagoa da Cruz, two leagues long from north to south, parallel with the beach, and very narrow. Among the rivers which enlarge it are remarked the Piranga, which is received by the left bank, and is navigable by canoes for a space of five leagues; the Upitanga, which joins it by the right margin, and is only navigable for six miles; the Itapicu Mirim, that comes from the north-west and admits of navigation for about fifteen miles; the Jaragua, which flows from the south-west, and appears capable of allowing small vessels to proceed as far as a situation about four leagues above its mouth; and the Braço, which descends from the north-west, and admits of canoes for the space of six miles. All these rivers run by winding courses among mountains and uncultivated territories, thickly wooded, demonstrating the natural fertility of the soil. The Itapicu is supposed to be the river of Dragons, which the discoverers placed to the south of the river St. Francisco in this district.

Five miles to the north of Itapicu is the island of St. Francisco, six leagues long, and in the form of a bow, the right line of which is nearest the coast; the channel which separates it from the continent is improperly called the river of St. Francisco. The southern entrance is denominated Aracary, is two hundred fathoms wide, has only depth for large boats, and on its outside are the three islands of Remedios and two of Tamboretes. The northern bar, called Babitonga, is fifteen hundred fathoms wide and deep enough for large _sumacas_.[19] At the end of the sixteenth century it was not known that the land between the bar of Aracary and Babitonga was an island; they were thought to be two mighty rivers, the southern called the St. Francisco and the northern the Alagado. The channel, or the pretended river St. Francisco, of a semicircular form, enlarges considerably from both mouths to the middle, where it is three miles wide, and contains a cluster of more than twenty islands. A great number of rivers empty themselves here. The nearest to the bar of Aracary is the Piraque, having a course of five leagues, five fathoms in width at the mouth, and affords navigation to canoes for three miles; next to it is the Pinheiros, still smaller; then the Paraty, which is thirty fathoms wide at the bar, two and a half in depth, and navigable for about a league. The little river Areas, narrow and deep, is navigable for two miles. The great river Areas, up which canoes proceed with the tide for some distance. The river Parannagua, whose origin approximates to that of the Pirango, an arm of the Itapicu: coasting vessels proceed up it a short way, large boats about two miles, and canoes nearly five miles. Next follow the Saguaçu; the two Erirys; the Cubatao Grande, twenty fathoms wide, three deep, and navigable for ten leagues to the high rock of Tromba; the Antonio Felis; the Ribeyrao; the Biguaçu; the Pyrabyréba; the Cavalinhos, by which canoes proceed for a space of ten miles; the Tres-Barras, so called in consequence of being the common embouchure of the three rivers of Furtaenchente, St. Joam, and Tres Barras, the second only being considerable, (its principal confluents are the Maria Bachaara and the Farinhas, which come from the serra of Curytiba, and afford navigation to canoes;) the Barrancos, Bacuhy, Lamen, Batuby, Fornos, Fernandes, Barboza, and the two Jaugarunas, the smaller of which is nearest to the northern point of the bar of Babitonga. The nine last, and several of the others are small, being only of any note during the spring tides. The whole of these rivers generally run tamely between low banks, of a marshy nature, abounding with considerable numbers of the beautiful scarlet _guara_ bird, which delight the eye of the navigators. In some of these rivers are found seed pearls of various colours, also large pearls of an imperfect kind.

The island of St. Francisco is low, watered with various small rivers, and inhabited; on its eastern side there is a narrow lake, ten miles long from north to south, denominated the river Acarahy; and near it another small one. Two leagues north of the bar of Babitonga is the river Sahy Mirim, and the same distance farther the Sahy Grande, both inconsiderable, uniting in one stream a little above their embouchures.

The greatest part of the population of this province is descended from families who came from the Azore Islands, for the purpose of colonizing it. Negroes are not numerous, and mesticos still less so. The aboriginal Patos, whose name the island at first had, penetrated into the continent. The Carijos were the first tribe understood by the Vincentistas, and hence their name was given in common to all domesticated Indians, of whatever nation.

This province has three towns, _viz._

Nosso Senhora do Desterro, in the island of St. Catharina,
Laguna, on the continent,
St. Francisco, in the island of the same name;

and seven parishes, namely,

St. Joze }
St. Miguel }
Nosso Senhora do Rozario } on the continent;
Santa Anna }

Nosso Senhora da Conceiçao }
Nosso Senhora da Lapa } in the island of St. Catharina.
Nosso Senhora das Necessidades }

The hermitages are equal in number to the parishes.

In 1796, this province was computed to have

4,216 fogos, or houses.
23,865 adult inhabitants, exclusive of paid troops.
3 sugar engenhos, or works.
192 distilleries of rum.
4 engenhos for pounding rice.
297 wind and horse mills.
884 bolandeiras for grinding mandioca.
32 tan-pits.

In the year 1812, the population amounted to 31,530.

ISLANDS.--The only considerable islands are that which gives the name to the province and that of St. Francisco. The island of St. Catharina, upwards of thirty miles long from north to south, and from four to eight in width, is mountainous, abounding with water, yet in parts covered with woods, and does not want for stone or potters’ earth. Between its mountains there are some cultivated plains, of greater or less extent, and also many marshy situations. There are many bays, and they abound with shells. On the eastern side there is a lake two leagues long from north to south, deep in some places, and at a certain part so contracted that it appears like two, united by a neck fifty fathoms wide, having a large bridge. When in the winter it begins to inundate the adjacent low grounds, the inhabitants in the vicinity open a channel to discharge the overflowing water into a bay, situated at a little distance, and which is immediately filled up again by the flowing of the tide, when the current ceases, during which a great quantity of fish enter from the ocean. It consequently affords at all times an abundant supply. At its northern extremity, there is a small river called Vermelho, near which the best water-melons of the province are produced. To the south of the preceding, there are three other lakes: the Lagoinha Grande, the Pantano, and the Lagoinha de Leste. The whole are stored with the same fish as the first. Mandioca and flax are the principal articles of agriculture, which is generally exercised by white men, who also cultivate Indian corn, rice, coffee, vegetables, sugar, and some cotton, which is not of good quality. Some fruit trees from the south of Europe are here naturalized. Water-melons, pine-apples, and oranges are very abundant. The principal streams in this island are the Vermelho, the Ratones, which enters the sea two leagues north of the capital, and the Tavares, three miles south-east of the capital. The country, watered by the last river, produces the best melons in the province.

The channel which separates this island from the continent is far from being of uniform width, forming two large ports, almost equal in size, and separated by a straight of two hundred fathoms between two points. The northern and larger port, ten miles wide, having depth for ships of war, is one of the best in South America, and the key to the southern ocean. The wind prevails from the south during the winter, which commences generally in May and ends in October. Thunder-storms are frequent in the summer; all the afternoons here are refreshed by strong sea breezes, rendering the climate of this island equal to any in the world.

Near to the southern point of St. Catharina are six small islands. The three western ones are called the Papagúos, and the eastern the Tres Ismaos. The islands of Moleques, Campeche, Xavier, Aranhas, and Badejo are situated upon the eastern coast of the island of St. Catharina. Near its northern point are three, called the Moleques. Five miles north of the same point are the islands of Arvoredo and Galle. Within the principal port, amongst others, are the islands of Tomarim, near the coast of the continent, and the Ratones, almost in front of the river of the same name, both fortified. In the southern port are the islands of Cardos and Maruhy.

The town of Nosso Senhora do Desterro, the capital of the province, is considerable, populous, and situated on the western side of the island of St. Catharina, upon a bay a little to the east-south-east of the straight, on unequal land between two rocks, traversed by three small rivers, which are passed by various stone bridges. The streets are almost generally irregular, and the houses either of stone or wood. Besides a church, it has the chapels of Menino Deos, Our Lady of Rozario, a Terceira order of St. Francisco d’Assis, and a hospital of charity. The quarters of the troops are good. The senate is presided by a _Juiz de Fora_, and the youth are instructed by royal masters in the primitive letters and Latin, for whose benefit there is a tribute in rum. Potteries afford a branch of industry and commerce. Coarse cloths of linen and cotton, also a mixture of both, are manufactured.

The parish of Nosso Senhora das Necessidades, better known by the name of St. Antonio, is five miles north of the capital, and small, but its situation is particularly pleasant. The inhabitants cultivate sugar, mandioca, Indian corn, some flax, and various hortulans. A little more than three miles to the north is the bay Das Canavieiras (of canes or reeds.) Here the Spaniards disembarked in 1777, and took possession of the island without the least resistance.

The parish of Nosso Senhora da Conceiçao is situated about a league to the east of the capital, upon a steep, a little distant from the large lake, enjoying an extensive view of the ocean. Its parishioners cultivate sugar and mandioca, with the other provisions of the country. In this district there is an establishment for whale fishing.

Two leagues to the south of the capital is the parish of Nosso Senhora da Lapa, situated near the mouth of a small river, in the recess of a semicircular bay, and in front of an island. It is commonly called _Robeira_, has abundance of fish, and the provisions of the country.

Laguna is a middling town, advantageously situated upon the eastern margin of the lake from which it derives the name. It is two miles from the bar, near a small hill, from whence descend excellent waters. The form of this place is quadrilateral, with three parallel streets, crossed by others, and a square at one side, in which the municipal house is situated. It has only one church, dedicated to St. Antonio dos Anjos, and a great part of the houses are of stone, some one story high, and whitened with the lime of shells. The inhabitants cultivate the usual productions of the country. The lake is stored with fish, and in the months of November and December a prodigious quantity of _bagre_ (a long fish with a forked tail) enter it, supplying a lucrative branch of commerce. This town is sixty miles south of the capital. From its port, which receives coasting vessels, is exported farinha, rice, Indian corn, timber, and salt fish.

About fifteen miles north of Laguna, and near fifty south of the capital, is the parish of St. Anna, commonly known by the name of Villa Nova, a small place, pleasantly situated upon an elevation near the northern extremity of the same lake, with two ports, one called Porto da Embituba, sheltered on the south and east by a headland of the same name, where there is a small whale fishery, subject to the administration of that of Garopaba. The houses are generally of wood, although there is abundance of stone. Its inhabitants, amongst whom there are many _macilentos_, (meagre or spare,) cultivate the productions common to the country, and a large quantity of flax, having, consequently, more weavers of that article than any other place in the province. Onions are of an extraordinary size, and other hortulans of a fine quality.

The parish of Nosso Senhora do Rozario, which is upon the bay of Brito, between two small brooks, thirty-five miles north of St. Anna, and ten south of the capital, is yet small, and its parishioners cultivate mandioca, Indian corn, and sugar, and also are fishermen. In its district there are hot springs.

Four miles to the south-east of the capital, and one distant from the left bank of the Maruhy, is the parish of St. Joze, upon a bay of the same name, with a pottery of glazed earthenware. The inhabitants grow the same articles as the preceding.

Eight miles north-west of the capital is the pleasant parish of St. Miguel, upon a bay so called, which forms a good roadstead. Its inhabitants cultivate and export a large quantity of rice and farinha, with some sugar. Near this place is the principal establishment for whale fishing.