Chapter I: Voyage from England to Rio de Janeiro (12)

RIVERS AND LAKES.--The river St. Lourenço, which originates in the latitude of about 15°, is already considerable when it traverses the road of Goyaz; afterwards, it gathers by the left the Parannahiba, which brings with it the Sucuri, the sources of which are also a great distance to the north of the said road. A little below this confluence, where it becomes large, there is a fall, which is the last, and from hence it continues to the south-west, through a flat country, augmenting greatly until its incorporation by two mouths with the Paraguay, which is not superior to it. The eastern embouchure is distinguished by the name of Rio Chaynez.

Forty miles above the mouth of the Cuiaba the St. Lourenço is joined by the Piquiri, which is larger, has its heads near the boundary of Cayaponia, not far from those of the Sucuriu, and receives on the right the Piaughuhi, which originates in the same parts; on the left, the Itaquira, which has its source in the proximity of that of the Jauri-Guassu, a branch of the Tocoary, already mentioned.

A few years only have elapsed since an explorer navigated up the Piquiri seven days, and did not encounter a cataract. Ancient certanistas have asserted that the navigation from Porto Feliz to Cuiaba may be accomplished by the Sucuriu and Piquiri. It is, however, certain that the voyage from the mouth of the Tiete to the Cuiaba is more than one-third shorter than by that of Camapuan.

The Rio das Mortes, (River of the Dead,) which took this name in consequence of many people of the first bandeira dying upon its margins from fevers, has its numerous heads to the south of the Cuiaba road. It runs to the north-east and discharges its considerable volume into the western arm of the Araguaya, where it forms the island of St. Anna. It affords extensive navigation into the interior of the province. The Roncador and the great and small Sangradores are the most remote origins of this river. The first is the most western, and flows a short distance from an arm of the aforesaid Sucuriu. Between the two Sangradores there is a spacious lake, called Logoa Grande.

The Rio do Peixe, (River of Fish,) formed by the Raizama and Tacoaral, which also cross the Cuiaba road, there insignificant, flows northwards, and ultimately enters the Rio das Mortes.

Twenty-five miles from the Araguaya, near a small stream and the said road, is situated the aldeia of Insua, with a register.

There existed upon the left margin of the Rio das Mortes, an aldeia, named Amaro Leite after its founder, which disappeared when the road was carried in a more direct line further to the south.

_District of_ JURUENNA.

This comarca is bounded on the north by Mundrucania, on the west by the rivers Guapore and Madeira, on the south by the comarca of Matto Grosso, and on the east by the river which affords its name, comprising nearly four hundred miles from north to south, and much more from east to west. Between the Pederneiras and Araras falls, in the latitude of 9° 45′, where the river Madeira curves to the west, there is a point on its eastern margin, in front of the mouth of the river Abuna, from which it takes the name, and is the most western land of the Brazil.

This comarca is very little known by the Portuguese, and is in the power of various barbarous nations. The _Pammas_, who possess a considerable portion upon the Madeira, are of a white complexion. The _Tamares_ are masters of the adjacencies of the river Juyna, the first notable branch of those which enlarge the Juruenna by the western bank. The _Paccahas_ live to the north of the latter. The _Sarummas_ farther to the north, along the margins of the said Juruenna. And, lower down, the _Uhaihas_.

The Juruenna, which is said to take the name of a nation, has its origin a little to the north of the Jauru. Its course is directed to the north, and it incorporates by two mouths with the Arinos, between the parallel of 9° and 10°. Its large volume of water, more considerable than the river which receives it, shows that it is joined by numerous other streams in its course. Hitherto, it has not been navigated by Christians; those who have examined it at the mouths state, that its waters are particularly clear, and that various islands are situated in that portion of its bed within view. It is discharged between two _serrotes_, or hills, of trifling elevation. The island separating its two mouths is of medium size and moderate altitude.

The Jamari, and the Giparanna, are the largest rivers flowing from this comarca into the Madeira. The first rises on the northern skirts of the serra Paricis, in the territory of the Guaritere Indians, where it is called the Candeas, waters the lands of the Camarares, who afford their name to one of its principal arms, and discharges fifty miles below the fall of St. Antonio. It is said to have a cataract two days’ voyage above its mouth, and to flow through auriferous lands.

The Giparanna, also called Machado, has its source to the east of the Jamari, also in the skirt of a branch of the same serra, and soon begins to be enlarged by small streams, that irrigate the territories of savage tribes, and falls into the Madeira, nearly thirty miles below the preceding. In its vicinity there is sarsaparilla, and the cocoa tree, from which chocolate is made. Eight miles below the mouth of the Jamari is an outlet of the lake Tucunare, little removed from the margin of the Madeira. The river Soteiro and the Pacanova descend from the southern side of the said serra Paricis, and fall into the Guapore, the Soteiro forty miles below the Ubahi, and the Pacanova seventy miles further.

Along the banks of the Madeira and the Itenez, the only parts of this comarca that are well known, abundance of all kinds of game are met with. Amongst other notable trees that are seen in the large woods here adjacent to those rivers, is a species of palm, called _ubussu_, the flower of which supplies an elastic fibrous peel, so interwoven, that it appears like the production of the loom, and serves as a cap to the Indian. The _curagiru_ affords a fine scarlet dye. The cedar is common and very thick, but, like a great many other trees of excellent timber, of no use, from the almost total want of population capable of appreciating their value.

In this comarca is situated the fort of Principe da Beira, erected in the year 1776, upon the right margin of the Guapore, one league below the mouth of the Tunama, in 12° 20′ south latitude, and one mile above the situation where the first governor of the province established the fort of Conceiçao. The land upon which it stands is never inundated by the river, which rises here at the period of the floods near thirty feet, and covers with lakes a great portion of the frontier lands, thus subjecting the garrison to fevers. Three hundred and fifty miles is computed from this fort to the capital; and by the river, upwards of six hundred, so considerable are its windings.

Near this fort there is a populous aldeia of Christian Indians; and at a short distance higher up another, called Leonil, similarly inhabited. The whole cultivate a diversity of the necessaries of life. They also hunt and fish.

Five miles below the confluence of the Guapore with the Mamore, upon the margin of the river Madeira, near the fall of Ribeiram, is the new parish of St. Joze. The inhabitants are composed of various nations, with some whites, and are abundantly supplied with fish, game, and the necessaries of life peculiar to the country.

_District of_ ARINOS.

This comarca, which receives its name from the river that waters it and divides it into two unequal portions, is confined on the north by Tapajonia, on the west by Juruenna, on the south by Cuiaba, and on the east by Tappiraquia. Its length is equal to that of the preceding district, and its width, from east to west, is nearly three hundred miles. A portion of the most southern part of it is commonly called Varges, or Vargeria, where, many years ago, a colony of adventurers settled, but soon afterwards abandoned it, in consequence of the annoyance they experienced from the Indians, and the want of success attending their partial operations in mining.

It is a district very little known, although ascertained to be auriferous. Those who have navigated by the Arinos and Tapajos, state, that it is washed by numerous rivers, almost the whole of which contribute their waters to the enlargement of the two preceding. Its aspect is varied by mountains, and, as far as the eye of the explorer has extended, contains luxuriant and noble woods.

Amongst the nations under whose dominion it hitherto has remained, the _Baccuris_ are well known, who possess the first territory irrigated by the Arinos; also the _Manbares_, who are wanderers in the land traversed by the river Taburuhina, the first remarkable confluent of the Juruenna on the eastern bank. The _Appiacas_ occupy the centre of the comarca, and have an aldeia with high houses upon the right border of the river Arinos. They are a ferocious people, live by hunting and fishing, and with axes of stone they prepare the timber for the construction of their houses and their canoes. Northward of the last dwell the _Cabahibas_, who speak the same idiom. It is to be hoped that these tribes, when they begin to experience the advantage of iron instruments and clothing, which they can derive alone from the navigators of this river, will become more civilized, and contribute to the cultivation of those neglected districts.

The river Arinos, which took the name of a nation at present unknown, rises near the origins of the Paraguay, and falls into the sublime Amazon under the name of the Tapajos. In 1805, Joam Vieges accomplished on this river almost the same voyage as its first discoverer, Captain Joam de Souza e Azevedo; and in 1812, Antonio Thomé de Franca also descended by it, and in the following year proceeded up with his fleet of canoes, laden in the city of Para, being the first individual who performed this voyage, unquestionably less laborious and much shorter than that by the river Madeira.

The first considerable river united with the Arinos by the right border is the Rio Preto, which rises between the Paraguay and the Cuiaba, and, by the left, the Sumidor, which originates a little to the north of the Sipotuba. This name is given to it in consequence of disappearing, (after a course of many leagues,) beneath a rock, from whence it issues at no great distance below. A canoe confided to the current at the upper side soon appears at the other. Captain Joam de Souza descended by the Sumidor, and others by the Rio Preto embarking upon it at a situation about ten miles distant from the arraial of Diamantino.

It appears singular that none of these navigators descended by the Arinos from its upper part, which, when it receives the Rio Petro, is larger than that river. All the canoes with which those rivers have been navigated were constructed of the trunks of trees produced upon their margins, demonstrating sufficiently the substantial nature of the soil, and its adaptation to all the purposes of agriculture.

In twenty-eight hours of navigation, (performed in the course of four days,) from the bar of Rio Preto to that of the Sumidor, Viegas met with nineteen rivers, yet nameless, and almost the whole entered the Arinos by the right. The largest is a few leagues above the mouth of the Sumidor, which latter is little inferior to the Arinos.

After an extensive course, the Arinos loses the name, upon incorporating with the Juruenna, the united waters forming the Tapajos, properly Tapayo, from a nation of this name, who inhabited its margins further to the northward. The first considerable river united with it by the right is the Azevedo, so denominated after its discoverer. At a great distance lower down is the embouchure of another river on the right, thirty fathoms in width. A little further two morros approximate, and contract its bed, and an elevated island divides it into two channels, through which its waters flow with equal rapidity.

From hence about three hours’ voyage is a cascade of considerable altitude, the murmuring noise and evaporation arising from which announce another of the wonders of nature long before it becomes visible.

Beyond this interesting object is discovered the mouth of another river, apparently at least equal to the Tapajos, which is here very wide; but is however almost immediately reduced by two lateral morros to a little more than one hundred fathoms of width, and after a short space again presents a more than ordinary expansion, and receives also by the right margin another river of thirty fathoms in width. It is about three hours’ navigation from the mouth of one river to the other.

Upon the margin of the Rio Preto, at the place where the canoes commence their voyage, a povoaçoe is now establishing for the accommodation of the navigators of the Tapajos.

_District of_ TAPPIRAQUIA.

This comarca derives its name from one of its tribes of Indians, and is limited on the north by Xingutania, on the west by the river Xingu, which separates it from the preceding district, on the south by Bororonia, and on the east by the river Araguaya, which divides it from Nova Beira. It comprises the same length as the Arinos from north to south, and upwards of two hundred miles from east to west.

With the exception of the eastern boundary, along the Araguaya, it is unknown, for want of the relations of those who penetrated into it at an earlier period. Amongst other nations who have this district under their dominion, are the _Guapindaias_; the _Tappiraques_, who afford it the name; the _Ximbiuas_, and the _Aracis_.

The southern part contains various rivers. The most remarkable are the Boys, Barahu, Irahiras, and Xanacy, all arms of the great river Xingu, but it is not known which is its principal head.

Those that originate more to the east form the river St. Joao, which enters the Araguaya above fifty miles north of the river Mortes. To the south of its embouchure there is a large lake which communicates with it, as well as with the river that receives it, during the periodical floods.

Seventy miles below the river St. Joao, the Vertentes falls also into the Araguaya, after an extensive course. A little to the north of the re-union of the two arms of the Araguaya, which form the large island of St. Anna, is the mouth of the river Ponta, not very considerable; and a short distance lower down that of the Tappiraques, so called from its originating in the territory of the Indians of the same name.

To the north of the river Tappiraques, upon the margin of the Araguaya, in the space of eighty miles, were founded the three aldeias of Lappa, Almeida, and Semancelhe, for the habitation of various families of the Ximbiua tribe, reduced to peace in the year 1775, who soon afterwards adopted their former rude mode of living. They are a people passionately fond of hunting and fishing, the produce of which constitute their principal subsistence. The first certanistas who penetrated into these districts, killing some partridges, found in their crops granites with gold, a proof of the existence of that precious metal here, and which may stimulate future exertions in the desirable object of introducing cultivation and Christianity into extensive territories yet uncolonized.

The great fertility of these lands, and the facility with which their productions might be transported by their noble rivers, particularly towards Gram Para, also concur in raising the expectation that some effectual measures will be adopted to civilize the savage wanderers, and convert the widely extending woods to the purposes of such culture as the soil, now overshadowed with constant gloom, may be found to be best adapted.

CHAP. XI.

PROVINCE OF GOYAZ.

_First Discovery of Gold--Attempts of Bueno to find the Goya
Territory--Settlements--Boundaries--Extent--Mineralogy--
Zoology--Phytology--Cattle and Gold its Exports--Principal
Rivers--Comarcas--Julgados.--District of Cayaponia--Limits
--Indians--Rivers.--District of Goyaz--Limits--Mountains--
Capital--Povoaçōes.--District of Nova Beira--Limits--Indians
--Rivers--Povoaçōes--Indians reduced to Peace--Aldeias
established for them.--District of Tucantines--Limits--Rivers
--Indians--Povoaçōes.--District of Parannan--Limits--Rivers
--Povoaçōes.--District of Rio das Velhas--Limits--Rivers--
Indians--Povoaçōes._

This province had its origin in the year 1749, being until that time a comarca or ouvidoria of St. Paulo, so created in 1737, and colonized by adventuring miners.

The first intelligence of this territory possessing gold was given by Manuel Correa, a native of the town of St. Paulo de Piratininga, who found ten oitavas of this metal, which he gave as a diadem to crown the sacred image of the Lady of Penha, at the town of Sorocaba. Though the date of this circumstance is not known, it appears, by a journal found at Correa’s death, that he collected the said gold with a pewter plate in the river Aracis.

Bartholomew Bueno, who succeeded Correa in the same undertaking about the year 1670, was accompanied by his son of the same name, then only twelve years old. They dwelt some time in the vicinity of the situation where the capital of this province now stands, and observed that the women of the Goya tribe, masters of the district, ornamented themselves with gold.

The discovery of the mines of Cuiaba, in 1719, directed the attention of B. Bueno, the son, (the father being then dead,) to the territory of the Goyaz; and imparting his knowledge of the gold discovered by his father in the possession of this tribe, to Rodrigo Cezar de Menezes, that governor despatched him, with a numerous party, and one hundred muskets, in the year 1722, in order that he might go in search of and establish himself in the country.

Bueno, having lost all recollection of such signals as might have pointed out the way to the Goya district, proceeded too far to the south, and having arrived at the banks of a river, they remained there for some days, and gave it the name of Rio dos Piloes: they found there a considerable quantity of gold, which produced some dissension amongst the party, many wishing to remain in order to take advantage of it. Bueno, however, was determined upon the accomplishment of his object; and thinking that the rich treasure he was in pursuit of lay still further to the west, he proceeded in that direction for some days, when they reached a river, which they denominated the river of Perdition, in consequence of then considering themselves entirely out of the route to Goyaz. Continuing without embarrassment the same march, they encountered a larger river, and beyond this a third, which they called the Rio das Areas, in consequence of the sandy nature of its bed. Journeying onwards to the west, they found another, which received the appellation of Rio Rico, (Rich River,) from the gold which they discovered in it.

Having lost all hopes of finding the wished-for district in this direction, Bueno retraced his steps, and deviating in the way, after a prolonged and tedious journey, arrived at the river Parannan, where he considered himself still further from his object, in consequence of perceiving certain signs of cattle, which he afterwards found had strayed from the margins of the river St. Francisco in search of better pasturage.

After three years of ineffectual perseverance and disappointed labour, in quest of the enchanting land, this certanista arrived at St. Paulo with a part of his bandeira; the remainder having died from diseases and disasters inseparable from such an undertaking.

The tender age of Bueno when he accompanied his father to the district in question, and fifty years of interval, exculpated him from all blame in the unfortunate result of this enterprise; and, as he was a man of known probity, the same governor despatched him again, with every necessary succour, in the confident expectation of a more successful issue. Bueno proceeded for three months through unknown districts, without any track or road, encountering various torrents, and other obstacles of a worse nature, replete with difficulties and delay: at last he arrived at a place about eight miles distant from the present situation of the capital, where he perceived some indications of Portuguese having been there at some former period, which induced him to halt upon the spot with his companions. Two old Indians were caught, who proved to be of the Goya nation; and on being interrogated if they knew the place where some white men had been established many years ago; they replied, that it was not far distant. The caravan now moved forward again, accompanied by the two Indians, who led the way to a situation, at the present time occupied by the arraial of Ferreiro, and which Bueno immediately recognised to be the much desired spot where he had been with his father. He immediately proceeded to make the requisite arrangements for forming an establishment, and to carry into execution the objects of this enterprise.

The fortunate Bueno now returned to his country, with the intelligence of having discovered the long sought-for district, which was traversed by five streams, all having abundance of gold; a pretty considerable portion of which he presented at the same time, in confirmation of those glad tidings. He soon received the commission of Captain Mor Regente, and proceeded to rejoin his colony in the year 1726.

Having arrived at the new arraial, his first care was to adopt the best mode of living in harmony with the Goyaz, the only tribe in the district, and from whom the name of this province was derived. The Indians were, however, suspicious of their new visitors, and posted themselves with their arms in the situation where the arraial of Barra is now seen; but Bueno adopting the artifice of seizing some women, the Goyaz desisted, at the same time offering to point out those places which afforded the largest quantity of gold, and which were at and near the situation now called Ponte do Meio, and where a piece was soon found, which, when purified, produced half a pound of gold. The whole colony laboured in contentment, and without envying the miners of Cuiaba.

The fortunate circumstances of their situation soon becoming known, and the dangers to which persons were exposed who directed their course to Cuiaba, attracted so great a number of miners to Goyaz in the course of two years, that the necessaries which daily arrived with the numerous caravans and troops from St. Paulo, (to which city alone there was any track or road,) were inadequate to their subsistence. Every thing sold at an exorbitant price; of gold there was enough, but it could not supply sustenance. An alqueire of Indian corn cost six or seven oitavas of gold; and the same measure of the flour of mandioca ten oitavas. A milch cow, which appeared there, was bought for two pounds weight of the same metal, and a hog for twenty-eight. Two oitavas of gold were demanded for a pound of sugar; and every article of subsistence was procured only by payment in the same proportion. The dealers who conveyed the necessaries of life by a tedious journey were enriched; but the mines were still more lucrative at this period. Many were at length induced to devote a portion of their time to the cultivation of the necessaries of life, that the gold which they collected might not be consumed in payment for them.

This province, in the centre of Brazil, and ranking amongst the largest in the state, is confined on the north by the provinces of Para and Maranham; on the west by Cuiaba, from which it is separated by the river Araguaya; on the south by Camapuania and the province of St. Paulo; and on the east by the provinces of Minas Geraes, and Pernambuco, which are divided from it by a cordillera, stretching north and south, stony and barren, and which alone affords passage at the largest openings, denominated _boqueiroes_; each portion taking its particular name, and the northern being the most elevated. The length of this province is about seven hundred miles, computing from the confluence of the Araguaya with the Tucantines to that of the Pardo with the Parannan, and its width proportionable. It lies between 6° and 18° of south latitude; the rains only prevail during the thunder peculiar to these climates, which commences in October and terminates in April.

The aspect of this province is almost universally uneven, although in few parts mountainous, having many portions called _catingas_, not favourable to cultivation.

The soil is only fertile where there are woods, with which it does not abound, if we except the districts of the capital, Meia Ponte, Pilar, and St. Luzia, by the margins of the Corumba. Admiration is excited by the wood called Matto Grosso, (Large Wood,) upwards of thirty miles in width, upon the road of Meia Ponte to the capital, about the centre of that interval, and its length extending from the river Almas to the centre of Cayaponia.

MINERALOGY.--Gold, diamonds, crystals, granite, calcareous stone, minerals of iron, mineral salt, a diversity of argils, &c. The largest fifth on gold here was of one hundred and sixty-nine thousand and eighty oitavas, in 1753, and the smallest of eleven thousand eight hundred and ninety-three, in 1807. This diminution arises from not working into the mountains, which, no doubt, abound with this metal.

ZOOLOGY.--This province abounds in cattle. Goats are few in number, and almost of no utility. Sheep are somewhat more numerous; little advantage is, however, derived from their wool, which might be easily rendered subservient to some branches of industry. Very few more hogs are bred than what are for the consumption of the country. Horses are also bred; those of Parannan are esteemed the best. Deer are every where numerous, and their skins furnish a branch of commerce. The ounce, anta, the wild hog, wolf, monkey, hare, _tamandua_, _cotia_, _quati_, _paca_, with many other species of quadrupeds, common in the adjacent provinces, are here well known and much pursued by the hunter. Some are esteemed for the flesh, some for the skin, and others for both. Partridges and the emu ostrich are met with upon the plains. The _mutun_ bird inhabits the wood, and by its song invites the fatal attacks of the hunter. The _tucano_, the torquaze pigeon, the _aracuan_, the _araponga_, and the _jacu_, are numerous. A great part of those creatures are devoured in a raw state by the Indians, without salt or any kind of seasoning.

PHYTOLOGY.--There are a variety of medicinal plants, divers sorts of palm trees; the large _jatuba_ affords gum copal. The Brazil wood, and similar valuable timber, is here of no utility, in consequence of the great distance of any maritime town. The tobacco plant is cultivated with great advantage where the soil is substantial. From the fruit of the _mamona_ tree is extracted oil for lights. The cotton tree prospers in many parts, and its wool constitutes a branch of commerce, which is beginning to be advantageous to the population. The sugar cane is cultivated in many districts, and employs various engenhos; the greater part of its juice is converted into spirit, and some sugar, called _rapaduras_. The flour of mandioca, Indian corn, and legumes, are the most abundant productions of agriculture. The fruit of the _araca_, the pine-apple, the _mangaba_, the _goyaba_, the banana, _jabuticaba_, the _ambuo_, are common, and of various qualities. Oranges and water-melons are excellent. Quinces are small and insipid; but a large quantity of _doce_, or preserves, is here made of them. The vine trees grow to a remarkable size in some districts, and produce fruit abundantly twice a year. Wine is made of the grapes in the dry season, which is yet very indifferent; such as are produced in the winter season serve for vinegar, and afford a good substitute for that of Europe.

The cochineal plant is very common, but, hitherto, not appropriated to the production of that insect. Many parts are well adapted to the produce of indigo, the culture of which receives here no attention. The productions of those two vegetables, from their great value, are the only ones which the agriculturist of these districts could convey to the maritime ports with any considerable profit and security. The trees of incense, senna, and manna, are not unknown. Campeche and a species of rhubarb are also met with.

Gold and cattle are the only objects of exportation, which introduce into the country what little may be found of luxury, and the necessaries of life required from without. If a little cotton wool, or coarse cotton cloth, with some hides, are conveyed to the eastern ports, it is only that the troops of animals may not proceed unladen on their journeys to bring back the necessary dry goods, salt, iron, &c.; these articles would not otherwise pay one-half of the expense of conveyance. At present, the breeders of cattle and senhors d’engenhos are the only individuals who live constantly independent; the same may be said of miners and traders, when they are favoured by fortune in their operations. None, however, experience want; and agriculture is proportioned to the population. The present king has been solicitous to increase both in this fine and fertile province; and, when Prince Regent, he afforded his countenance and support, in September, 1812, to a plan for establishing a commercial company between this province and Para, the funds of which were not to be less than one hundred thousand crusades. The establishment of warehouses and prezidios, in situations best adapted to promote the navigation of the Maranham, and Tucantines, from Arroios to Porto Real, where almost all the obstacles terminate which impede the navigation upwards, cannot fail with the requisite attention and wisdom to effect this desirable project. All members who entered this society with ten thousand crusades, besides other favours, were to obtain what is termed a _sesmaria_ of land, extending five miles in front and five miles in depth, upon the margin of the Maranham, the Tucantines, and the Araguaya; and those who established themselves either upon the margins or in the certams of those rivers, were to be exempt from the payment of tenths upon their productions, and to be free from the duties of entrance upon the articles of commerce navigated by the said rivers.

RIVERS.--The Tucantines, the Araguaya, the Corumba, the Parannan, and the Parannahiba, are the principal rivers, and receive all the others which to a considerable number water this province.

The principal head of the Tucantines is the river Urubu, which originates in the southern skirt of the serra Doirada, a short distance southward from the capital, and after seventy miles of course towards the north-east, loses the name, confounding itself with the river Almas, which is not inferior to it; and from its origin, near the base of the Montes Pyreneos, flows north-west, about an equal number of miles. After ninety miles of further extent to the north-east, it loses also the name, uniting itself with the Maranham, which is little inferior to it in volume and in length of course. The principal head of the Maranham is the lake Formosa, which is fifteen miles in extent, and two in width. It flows to the north-west, and three miles previous to uniting with the Almas, at the passage to the arraial of Aguaquentes, is one hundred and sixty fathoms in width; a little above, it runs through a bed of rock so contracted that its width is only fifty feet. At this confluence, where it becomes very considerable, it flows northward, describing gentle windings, and augmenting by the many streams which unite themselves with it, especially by the eastern side.

A little below the confluence of the Almas with the Maranham, when the latter traverses a range of small hills, is the cataract of Facao, which prevents the progress of canoes in either direction.

One hundred and forty miles below the said confluence the large river Paranatinga falls into it on the right margin, which takes this name nearly thirty miles above its embouchure, at the junction of the Parannan and the Palma, the latter flowing westward, and the other, which is much larger, north-west from its origin in the General Serra; traversing an unwholesome country, abounding with pasturage, where a prodigious number of cattle and mules are bred.

At the confluence of the Paranatinga, which is said to be in 12° 20′ latitude, the Maranham takes the name of Tucantines, which it preserves until its large volume of water is mingled with the ocean below the city of Para. Nearly seventy miles north of the last confluence the large river Cannabrava discharges itself into the Tucantines by the left margin, and a little lower by the right the considerable river Manuel Alvez, which issues from the Duro Serra, a portion of the cordillera which bounds the province, bringing the waters of many small streams that unite themselves with it on both sides in the space of one hundred and fifty miles, the extent of its course.

A little further to the north, the abundant river Tabocas disembogues by the left, having its heads near the serra of Estrondo. One hundred and forty miles to the north of the said river Manuel Alvez, also by the eastern margin, the Somno (Sleep) adds its abundant waters; and, after a little farther distance, the other Manuel Alvez discharges itself, being larger than the first, and serves, up to the present period, as the northern limit of the eastern portion of the province. Both those rivers flow from the boundary, traversing a territory inhabited by malevolent Indians. A party proceeded up the first, with the intention of exploring its margins and extent, under the influence of such an unpropitious star that they were never more heard of; from which circumstance the river received the name by which it is designated.

A few miles below the Manuel Alvez (the northern) the Tucantines describes a considerable winding towards the east, almost circular, again approximating very near to the place where it had on a sudden changed its direction, and immediately describing another contrary winding to the west, forming two peninsulas, the first of a circular figure, and the other in the form of an oval.

About one hundred miles further, in the latitude of six degrees, the Araguaya incorporates itself with the Tucantines on the left, rendering it exceedingly voluminous and grand, still continuing to flow northward, describing fewer windings and becoming gradually larger. When it passes the town of Cameta, in about 3° latitude, its width is already more than ten miles. The tide flows up this river more than two hundred miles, nearly to the situation denominated Itaboca, which literally means “perforated stone,” where the river is precipitated, in a short space, over three falls, which compel the navigator to unload his canoes. One hundred miles is computed between the mouths of the Araguaya and Itaboca, and from thence to Cameta one hundred and twenty. The _paratinga_, not less than eight feet in length, with proportionate circumference, and the _jahu_, are the largest fish of the High Tucantines, which is not considered to abound in any species of fish.

The Araguaya, almost as extensive as the province, forms its western boundary from its embouchure to the origin of its principal head, which is in the vicinity of that of the Hipiaughuhi, there flows under the name of the Bonito, which, after gathering by the western bank the river Barreiros and by the eastern the Caiapo, takes the name of Rio Grande, by which it is designated when it traverses the road of Cuiaba. The first considerable river that unites itself with it after passing this road is the Rio Claro, which comes from the south-east, and brings with it the Fartura, that originates in the proximity of the Uruhu. One hundred miles to the north it receives by the same margin the Vermelho, which is inconsiderable when it passes the capital; a few leagues lower it gathers the Tizoiras, of little less volume and extent than the preceding; and nearly thirty miles further it is united by the Crixa, which is something larger than the others. All three flow from the south-east, and none of them with less than two hundred miles of course. Navigation has been conducted, by the central one, up to this day, from the capital to the city of Para.

Thirty miles north of the mouth of the Crixa, which is also navigable, and has some salt pits in its vicinity, the Araguaya divides itself in the latitude of 12° 30′ into two branches nearly equal, which re-unite themselves in the parallel of 9° 36′, having formed the island of St. Anna, otherwise Bannanal, of one hundred and eighty miles in length, and of good width: there is a vast lake in the island which has an outlet into an arm of this river. The western arm preserves the name of Araguaya, and the eastern takes that of Furo, by which latter navigators commonly proceed. Both have falls, and a great number of islands, generally small, flat, and for the most part inundated during the periodical rains. The margins of the Furo are lower than those of the other arm, which latter receives by the western side various rivers, with which it is greatly augmented. The principal is the Mortes, which flows from the centre of Bororonia with near three hundred miles of course, and empties itself about forty miles north of the southern point of the island of St. Anna. At the northern extremity of this island the margins of the Araguaya are elevated a little to the confluence of that river with the Tucantines. The first navigators placed this confluence in 6°, the geographers of Para in 5°, and others in 3° 30′; the medium is evidently nearest the truth.

The river Corumba has its origin in the proximity of that of the river Almas, not far distant from the Montes Pyreneos. Its course for a vast space describes a large semicircle to the east (where it receives, amongst others, the river St. Bartholomew) as far as the parallel of its source, where the river Peixe is incorporated with it by the right. Thirty miles lower the river Verissimo unites itself with it on the left, after an extensive course, bringing the waters of another called Braco do Verissimo. From hence it flows for a considerable extent, and loses its name on falling into the Parannahiba, which constitutes a boundary for some miles to the province of Minas Geraes as far as the mouth of the river St. Marcos, its northern head, and which makes a similar divisionary line in the opposite direction.

Below the embouchure of the Corumba, the Parannahiba is joined by the large river Velhas, the principal head of which is near that of the Andayha, on the borders of Minas Geraes. Many leagues below the mouth of the river Velhas is the confluence of the Parannahiba with the Rio Grande, the limit of the province. In the vicinity of the embouchure of the Velhas, the Parannahiba receives on the right the Annicuns, the most considerable amongst those which unite themselves with it on that side, and has its source in the large wood of Matto Grosso previously mentioned.

Almost all the povoaçoes or inhabited places of this province already existed when it was so created and delivered to the government of the viceroy, Conde d’Arcos; and all of them, excepting those in the southern districts, owe their foundation to the gold sought after upon their sites and surrounding lands.

The jurisdiction of the ouvidor extended over the whole province, until the present King, when Prince Regent, by a decree of the 18th of March, 1809, divided it into two comarcas, the new one taking the name of St. Joam das Duas Barras, the other retaining that of the capital. Each of them comprehends eight _julgados_, or divisions, including the district of the capital, the only povoaçao yet enjoying the title of a town.

The comarca of Villaboa comprises the following julgados:--

Villaboa
Crixa
Pilar
Meia Ponte
St. Luzia
St. Cruz
Desemboque
Araxa.

The comarca of St. Joam das Duas Barras the following:--

Porto Real
Natividade
Conceiçao
Arrayas
St. Feliz
Cavalcante
Flores
Trahyras.

The above division of the province points out the jurisdiction of each comarca, but does not assist to form a correct idea of the country, in consequence of the great inequality which prevails in their extent and population; for instance, the julgado of the capital is upwards of five hundred miles long from north to south, and of proportionable width, and the julgado of Conceiçao extends east and west from one boundary of the province to the other; whilst that of Pilar is not more than one hundred miles long, and those of Desemboque and Araxa are much smaller.

It will be therefore preferable, in the delineation of this province, to follow nature, which has divided it into six cantos, not varying essentially in extent, and marked by visible boundaries. A line drawn from the mouth of the Parannahiba by its bed to the confluence of the river Annicuns, by this upwards, then by the river Boys to its origin, crossing to that of the river Pedras, by it down to the Almas, which continues it to the Maranham and Tucantines, divides the province into two parts, eastern and western, which latter is the larger portion, each of which is subdivided into three grand districts; namely,--

Cayaponia }
Goyaz } in the western portion.
Nova Beira }

Tucantines }
Parannan } in the eastern.
Rio das Velhas }

_District of_ CAYAPONIA.

Cayaponia derives its name from the _Cayapo_ nation, who have occupied it from time immemorial.

It is bounded on the north by the district of Goyaz; on the west by Bororonia, from which it is separated by the river Araguaya; on the south by Camapuania, from which it is divided by the river Pardo; and on the east by the rivers Paranna, Parannahiba, and Annicuns, which separate it, the first from the province of St. Paulo, the others from the district of Rio das Velhas. The northern limit is distinctly marked by a range of mountains, running in the same parallel of latitude as the lake of Pasmados, situated near the river of its name, in 17° 20′. It is upwards of two hundred and fifty miles in length from north to south, and one hundred and seventy at its medium width.

It is the least known amongst the districts of this province, not yet possessing a single Christianized establishment. The Cayapos, divided into various tribes, under whose dominion it hitherto remains, have from time to time made destructive sallies upon the caravans of Cuiaba, and invaded the northern part of the province of St. Paulo, where they have occasioned the flight of many colonies. They wander about almost in a state of nudity. Besides the bow and arrow, arms common to all the other Indian nations, they use also a club about one yard in length, of choice wood, round at the end which they lay hold of, and flat in the form of an oar at the other, the whole ornamented or dressed with the barks of shrubs of various colours, and woven in imitation of a mat. A blow from this weapon is fatal. Honey, fish, wild fruits, and game are their aliment. Their principal dwelling places are in the vicinity of the river Cururuhy, and not far removed from the cataract of Urubu Punga, whither they are in the habit of proceeding in large parties, for the purpose of fishing. There are times that the Portuguese do not experience any hostility from these Indians, and amongst other instances, one occurred in the year 1810, when Dr. Joam Ferreyra, treasurer-mor of the cathedral of St. Paulo, in order to gratify his curiosity, proceeded to visit and examine this famous cataract, where he arrived at the same time that a tribe of Cayapos appeared there, who conducted themselves as ancient allies, and with every appearance of friendship; they received graciously the presents which the traveller liberally offered to them, and allowed various persons of both sexes and different ages to remain in his company.

The ancient certanistas met with various rivers in the interior of this district, flowing southward, and their diaries enumerate, amongst others, the Perdiçao, which is nearest to the Annicuns, and most probably one of its tributaries; the Turvo, the Doirados, the Gallera, and the Pasmados, which is the most westerly, receives some of the preceding, and falls into the Parannan, near the cascade of Urubu Punga, under the name of Cururuhy. They also mention the Appary, which discharges itself into the said Parannan, many leagues above the fall, and two Cayapos, both tributaries like the preceding river, and little distant, one to the south and the other to the north of it.

The Sucuriu is considerable, disembogues a little below the Tiete, and is navigable nearly to its origin, which is north of Camapuan, upon the border of Bororonia. A certanista proceeded by it with his canoes to the Piquery, which conducted them to the river St. Lourenço.

The river Verde, which is also considerable, and of crystalline and excellent water, affords navigation to the interior of a peninsula, formed by the preceding river and the Pardo, the southern limit of the province, with the Parannan, which receives them. The water of this river, before being drawn from its bed, resembles green ink. Its margins abound with most beautiful woods, consisting of the finest timber.

_District of_ GOYAZ.

This district, which is larger than the preceding one, and is bounded by it on the south, has on the west the same limits as the province; on the east the districts of Rio das Velhas and Parannan; and on the north the district of Nova Beira, from which it is separated in part by the Estrondo serra and the river Tabocas.

The nation from which the province borrowed its name was not the only one that ruled here; to the north of it there lived a tribe called _Crixas_, whose name was given to the river that traverses their territory.

Amongst other mountains, generally of moderate elevation, may be enumerated the serra Doirada, not far distant from the capital, to the southward, which extends itself for a considerable space to the west. The serra Escalvada, lying further to the south, and running in the same direction as the preceding one; the serra Santa Martha, to the south-west of the last; and the Sentinilla, which prolongs itself for a great distance with the river Claro.

The said river Claro, the Vermelho, the Tizoiras, and the Crixa, are the principal streams of this district. The second is small on passing the capital, but soon afterwards becomes more considerable by the addition of various small rivers, which render it navigable. Amongst those which join it by the left margin are the Indios, the Tacoaral, the Tigres, and the Cachoeira, all issuing from the Doirada serra. The Bugres is the first abundant stream which unites itself with it by the right bank, and the Ferreiro the second. The Peixe is an arm of the Tizoiras, and navigable.

In the northern part of the district is to be noted the river Caldas, which is of short extent; it issues from a lake of the same name, and discharges itself into the Maranham, fifty miles above the Paratininga.

The Santa Thereza, and the Cannabrava, enter the Tucantines by one common embouchure, under the name of the first, which is the most voluminous.

The principal povoaçoes are, Villa Boa, Crixa, and Pilar.

Villa Boa, at its commencement denominated the arraial of St. Anna, was raised into a town in the year 1739, and is large, populous, and flourishing. It is the residence of the governor, at present Senhor Fernando Delgado, of the prelate, who is a bishop _in partibus_, and also of the ouvidor of the comarca, who fills other situations as well as that of crown judge. The senate is presided by a Juiz de Fora, who besides holds the appointment of attorney-general.

This town occupies a flat situation upon the margins of the Vermelho, which divides it into two unequal portions, communicating by three bridges. It is in the centre of the Brazil. Its edifices are neither large, elegant, nor substantial: the principal are the mother church, dedicated to St. Anna, five chapels to the Lady of Boa Morte, Rozario, Carmo, Abbadia, and Lapa; another of St. Francisco; the palace of the governor; the Caza da Camara, (or town house); the Caza da Contadoria, (exchequer); and the Caza da Fundicao do Oiro, (smelting house.) It has a fort, with two pieces of artillery to fire salutations upon occasions of solemnities, a fountain, and a public walk. The heat is intense during the dry season; night breezes, however, are usual, and exceedingly grateful.

This town has a tribunal which decides upon the affairs of the province, denominated the Junta de Real Fazenda, a council consisting of five deputies, including the governor, who is the president, the judge, the attorney-general, a treasurer, and an escrivao. It is situated in 16° 20′ of southern latitude.

The municipal body of this town, whose revenue amounts to one thousand oitavas of gold, are said to have a _sesmaria_ of land, in a circle around the town of five leagues in diameter.

Half a mile distant from the town, there is a hermitage of St. Barbara. Five leagues to the north-west of it is situated the small arraial of Barra, with a hermitage of the Lady of Rozario, at the embouchure of the Bugres. Its territory is auriferous.

Eight leagues in the same direction as the preceding is the arraial of Anta and parish of Bom Jesus, with two chapels of the Lady of Rozario and Boa Morte, situated between two small streams, which unite themselves previously to entering the Vermelho, and was founded in the year 1729. The gold which caused its origin is not yet exhausted; but, whether from indolence or any other cause, no one is at present occupied in its extraction.

Ten miles to the north of the latter place, near the river Peixe, in a plain, is the arraial of St. Rita, ornamented with a hermitage of the same name. It is actually the port of navigation from the capital to the city of Para. The river discharges itself into the Tizoiras by the left margin, and is only navigable during the rainy season.

Thirty-five miles to the north of the arraial of St. Rita, near the river Tizoiras, was founded, in the year 1755, the arraial of the same name, which was the parish of St. Miguel, and flourished whilst cultivation was profitable; but with the apparent exhaustion of gold it began to decay, and from the sterility of the land, and the want of water, it was ultimately forsaken. Cattle are, however, now bred in its district. A species of bird, which the discoverers of the country called _tizoiras_, (or scissors,) in consequence of having a tail similar to a pair of opened scissors, was the origin of its name.

Ninety miles to the north of the capital is the considerable arraial and parish of Crixa, the head of the julgado of that name, which was founded in the year 1734, near a small river, and about ten miles distant from the left margin of the river that affords it the name. Its church has for a titular saint the Lady of Conceiçao. There is also a chapel of St. Efigenia, two of Nossa Senhora of Rozario and Abbadia. The population forms four companies of militia, one of which is cavalry, and another free blacks.

Thirty-five miles to the east-north-east of Crixa, near a small river which runs into the Almas, is the large, flourishing, and well situated arraial and parish of Pilar, head of the julgado, founded in 1741, with the name of Pappuan, a herb abundant in this part. It is ornamented by a church, whose titular saint affords its name to the establishment, a chapel of St. Gonçalo, two of the Lady of Rozario and Merces, a fountain, and good streets. The environs are mountainous. In front of it there is a morro, which, it is calculated, has afforded more than one hundred arrobas (thirty-two pounds each) of gold, and from whence a much greater quantity might be extracted with water and proper management. There is a curious operation of nature in its vicinity, near the road of Carretao, representing human visages. It is worthy of notice.

Twenty miles to the east of Pilar is situated the aldeia of Lavrinhas, near the source of a small stream, which, after a course of ten miles, enters the river Almas.

Ten miles to the south-west of Pilar, near the river Moquem, a branch of the Crixa, is the arraial of Gorinos, with a hermitage. It was fully inhabited whilst its mines of gold were productive.