Chapter XIV

A Chinese fortification—Chinese army destroyed by famine—Viang Pa
Pow—Kiang Tung Lawas—Witch villages—An intelligent prince—Best
direction for railway—Purchase an ox for food—An ancient
lake—Leave Pa Pow—Upper gorge of the Meh Low—Kiang Tung Lawas a
Jung tribe, and distinct from Bau Lawas—Burmese Shans—Cattle
with nose-bags and masks—Effect of soil on foliage—Surprises in
the jungle—Temple at Bau Meh Pik—Offerings to deceased
ancestors—The valley of the Meh Sooay a
game-preserve—Indications of gold—Road to Viang Pow—Lower gorge
of the Meh Low—Portow, the little elephant’s playmate—Loi
Kook—Loi Chang Shans returning from frontier duty—Unwarrantable
action of Chinese general—Kiang Hung Shans Burmese subjects in
1886—Removal of capital—Kiang Hung annexed by British in
1888—Shans dread entering deserted temples—Deceased monks
classed as demons—Worshipping deceased monks—Suicide of a
princess and two of her maids—Soused by an elephant—Courtesy of
the Chow Hona of Kiang Hai—An immense plain, 142

CHAPTER XV.

Princes in their best clothes—A procession—Reach Kiang
Hai—Dilapidated houses—The Meh Khoke—Ngios from Moné—Kiang
Hai—Former Siamese capital—Early history of Siam—Visit he
chief—Population—Ruined cities—Arrangement between British Shans
and Siamese Shans—Recent encroachment of Siamese—Name entered as
benefactor in royal annals—Visit from La-hu—Oval faces—known by
their petticoats—Monosyllabic languages difficult to
translate—La-hu a Lolo tribe—Comparison of vocabularies, 154

CHAPTER XVI.

A state visit from chief—Insignia of office—Plentiful
rainfall—Rain-clouds from the north—Only silver coins—Indian
money—Frontier dues—Ferry toll—Fishing as a livelihood—Salt and
cowries as small change—Tricks with the currency in Siam—Robbing
the poor—A footprint of Buddh—A monk spoilt by the ladies—Ruined
temples strewn with bronze images—Carl Bock’s loot—The emerald
Buddh—A tattooed Laos Shan—Madras boys taken for ogres—Marching
in single file—Scene at the ford—Cheap provisions—Chinese
caravans—Cost of carriage—Opinion of Dr Cheek as to the
prospects for a Burmah-China railway—Population of Siamese Shan
States—Protection of caravan—Birds and monkeys dying of
grief—Second visit from the La-hu—Marriage customs—Divorce—Gold
in the Kiang Tung Lawa country—Fishing by torchlight, 162

CHAPTER XVII.

Leave Kiang Hai—A hot spring—Elephants without
tusks—Elephant-driving—Danger when driver is careless—A large
rice-plain—Bargaining with the abbot at Muang Doo—Bloodthirsty
flies—Elephants as tool-users—Inhospitable ancestral
spirits—Game plentiful—Utterances of tigers—A magnificent
forest—A stink-wood—Water-parting between the Kiang Hai and
Kiang Hsen plains—Brave butterflies—A field for an
entomologist—Psyche in Burmah—A Central Asian belief—Three
sacred hills—Buddha and Confucius—Legend of Loi Htong—Valley of
the Meh Chan—Pass to Muang Fang—Kiang Hsen plain—Siamese
aggression—Deserted cities of Manola—Tigers—Attack on Kiang Hsen
in 1794—Wild animals—Legend of Muang Nŏng—Thunderstorm—Flooded
country—Leaning pagoda—Reach Kiang Hsen, 177

CHAPTER XVIII.

The Meh Kong at Kiang Hsen—Ringworm—Extensive ruins—Description of
city—Importance of situation for trade—Chinese settlers from
Ssuchuan, Kweichau, and Yunnan—Projected railway—Surveys being
made by King of Siam—Excursions from Kiang
Hsen—Teak-forests—Robbing an image—Legend of Kiang
Mee-ang—Ancient cities—Comparison between ancient Britons and
Shans—Ancient principality of Tsen—Kiang Hung—Destruction of
Kiang Hsen—Carried away captives—Treachery in war—Population of
Zimmé chiefly slaves—Kiang Hsen reoccupied in 1881—Resettling
it—Action of King of Siam—Friendly footing of missionaries—View
across the Kiang Hsen plain—Flooded country—Leave for Kiang
Hai—A white elephant—Branches as
sunshades—Elephant-flies—Emigrants from Lapoon—Beautiful
scenery—Mr Archer’s description of traffic along the route, 190