Chapter XXVI

Leave for Muang Fang—The temple of the white elephants—Training
elephants—Evening service in a temple—Legend of Wat Pra
Non—Snake and Siva worship—Caravans—Stick-lac trees not cut
down—The 400 footprints of Buddha—Wild tea—Visit to Shan
ladies—Low dresses—Rules of hospitality—Worshipping the manes—A
zylophone—Implements of expectant Buddha—Straining water—Legends
of Loi Chaum Haut and Loi Kiang Dow—The palace of the
angels—Demons cannot harm Christians—Christianity a great
boon—Accident to aneroid—A vicious elephant—Foot-and-mouth
disease—Snares for demons—A panorama of hills—Sources of the Meh
Ping and Meh Teng—A river passing under a mountain—Muan Hang an
ancient lake-basin—Rival claims of Ping Shans and British Shans
or Ngio—The upper defile of the Meh Ping—A moonlight
scene—Entangling demons at the frontier—A Chinese fort—Loi
Pa-Yat Pa-Yai—Mapping the country—Dr M‘Gilvary’s sermon—Reach
Kiang Dow—Petroleum at Kiang Dow and Muang Fang, 315

CHAPTER XXVII.

Kiang Dow—Invasions of Burmese Shans—Precipitous hills—Muang Hang
under the Burmese—Viang Chai—Catch a Kamait—Entering monastic
life—Inquisitive people—Reach Muang Ngai—View up the river—A
Shan play—Visit the governor—Leave Muang Ngai—Hot springs—Loi
Pa-Yat Pa-Yai—A storm in the hills—Drainage flowing in three
directions—Underground streams—Difficult pass—Sinkage of
ground—A sacred cave—Legend of Tum Tap Tow—Visit the cave—An
unpleasant night—Large game—Threatened with beheading—Legend of
the hare-lip—Building a house—Chinese forts—Trichinosis—Reach
Muang Fang, 334

CHAPTER XXVIII.

Muang Fang—Deserted for 200 years—Proclamation resettling the
province—Population—Settlements of Ngio ousted by Siamese—Land
yielding 250-fold—Ruined cities—320 ruined temples—Purloining
images—Mr Archer’s report—Method of forming new
settlements—Separation of races in the cities—Colonies of
refugees and captives—Chinese Shans as labourers—City sacked by
the Burmese—Governor and wife drown themselves—Cost of
carriage—Dr Tiger the hunter—Bargain for a dagger—Sworn
brothers—Cambodian and Karen ceremonies—The augury of
fowl-bones—Passing merit by cotton-threads—First hair-cutting in
Siam—Lao marriage—Visit the ruined cities—Fallen idols—Putting
fugitives in chains—A deer-hunt—Sketching the hills—Visit to Ban
Meh Hang—Out of provisions—Fever and dysentery—Mahout attacked
by vicious elephant—Spreading cattle-disease, 347

CHAPTER XXIX.

Leave Muang Fang—My comrades hunting—Those boys again:
panic-stricken fisherwomen—Water-parting between the Meh Ping
and Meh Kong—Railway from Zimmé to Muang Fang and Kiang Hsen—A
freak of nature—Tree eight feet broad—A deer-lick—Bed without
dinner—Illness of missionaries—Sitting on a snake—Head or tail,
query—Emigrants carrying spinning-wheels—Cross the Meh Ngat—A
beautiful plain—Viang Pow—Visit from the governor—Ngio
raids—Lolo and Karen villages—Effect of monopolies—People
deserting Muang Fang—Officials collecting taxes for
monopolists—No gambling and opium dens—Cost of carriage—Export
of rice—One son-in-law in one house—Trade-routes—Leave Viang
Pow—The defile of the Meh Ngat—Accident to aneroid—A fine
view—An aristocratic governor—Population—Wild tea—Light
taxation—Free from vices—Put up with a Shan convert—Women well
treated amongst the Shans—Cutch-trees—Reach Zimmé, 360

CHAPTER XXX.

Offering to the good influences—The spirit in sleep—The ceremony
of Tum Kwun—Spirit-worship of Ping Shans—Arrangements for
leaving—Visit Siamese prince—A Gatling gun as an
ornament—Railway routes—Number of fighting-men—Dismiss
Loogalay—Pretty pagodas—Boxing and wrestling—The bridge
breaks—Presents from Chow Oo-boon—A lover’s lute—Lace prized—Dr
Cushing’s views on the Ping Shans—Connection with
Siam—Taxation—_Corvée_ labour—Serfs—Slaves purchased from Red
Karens—Debt slaves in chains—Religion—Field for missionaries, 373