Chapter II: Part 2

Commentators not apprehending this, run into many odd solutions, as not seeing a reason between _name_ and _thing_. Some therefore suppose it so call’d, because from hence _Joshua_ conquer’d all his enemies _round about_, and the like. But the truth is, _Joshua_ set the stones in a circular form, like the ancient temples; but placed no altar there, because they had no need to use it as a temple, where the tabernacle was present, therefore call’d it simply the _wheel_. So I doubt not but the altar which _Moses_ built under mount _Sinai_, with twelve pillars, was a circular work, as our Druid temples, _Exod._ xxiv. 4. The like we ought to think of the altar which _Moses_ built, and called _Jehovah Nissi_, which the heathen perverted into _Jupiter Nyseus_, or _Dionysus_, _Exod._ xvii. 15. The like must be affirm’d of all the patriarchal altars of _Abraham_, _Isaac_, and _Jacob_. These works of ours prove it, which are but little later in time, and made in imitation of theirs; and without a pun, or false logic, these matters may be said to prove each other in a circle; where ’tis absurd to demand any positive proof thro’ extreme distance of times and places. I apprehend nothing further ought to be expected from us than to lay together circumstantial evidence, a concurrence of numerous and strong verisimilitudes; as is now the case with us concerning _Rowldrich_.

5. We very justly infer this is a temple of the Druids, from the measure it is built upon. In a letter from Mr. _Roger Gale_ to me, dated from _Worcester, Aug. 19, 1719_, having been to visit this antiquity at my request, he tells me, the diameter of the circle is 35 yards. So the bishop of _London_ writes, the distance at _Stonehenge_ from the entrance of the area to the temple itself is 35 yards; so the diameter of _Stonehenge_ is 35 yards. We suppose this is not measur’d with a mathematical exactness; but when we look into the comparative scale of _English_ feet and cubits, we discern 60 cubits of the Druids is the measure sought for. The diameter of the outer circle of _Stonehenge_, and this circle at _Rowldrich_, are exactly equal.

I have repeated the table of the Druid cubits collated with our _English_ feet, which will be of service to us throughout this work, plate II.

The circle itself is compos’d of stones of various shapes and dimensions, set pretty near together, as may best be seen by the drawings, TABLE III, IV. They are flattish, about 16 inches thick. Originally there seems to have been 60 in number, at present there are 22 standing, few exceeding 4 foot in height; but one in the very north point much higher than the rest, 7 foot high, 5½ broad. There was an entrance to it from the north-east, as is the case at _Stonehenge_. _Ralph Sheldon_, esquire, dug in the middle of the circle at _Rowldrich_, but found nothing.

6. Another argument of its being a Druid temple, is taken from the barrows all around it, according to the constant practice in these places. To the north-east is a great _tumulus_ or barrow of a long form, which I suppose to have been of an arch-druid. Between it and our temple is a huge stone standing upright, called the _kingstone_; the stone is 8 foot high, 7 broad, which, together with the barrow, may be seen in TABLES III, V. but the barrow has had much dug away from it. ’Tis now above 60 foot in length, 20 in breadth, flattish at top.

I know not whether there were more stones standing originally about this barrow, or that this belong’d to some part of the administration of religious offices in the temple, as a single stone.

In the same plate may be seen another barrow, but circular, below the road to the left hand, on the side of the hill. Under it is a spring-head running eastward to _Long Compton_. This barrow has had stone-work at the east end of it. Upon this same heath eastward, in the way to _Banbury_, are many barrows of different shapes, within sight of _Rowldrich_; particularly, near a place call’d _Chapel_ on the heath, is a large, flat, and circular _tumulus_, ditch’d about, with a small tump in the center: this is what I call a Druid’s barrow; many such near _Stonehenge_, some whereof I opened; a small circular barrow a little way off it. There are on this heath too, many circular dish-like cavities, as near _Stonehenge_, we may call them barrows inverted.

Not far from the Druid’s barrow I saw a square work, such as I call Druids’ courts or houses. Such near _Stonehenge_ and _Abury_. ’Tis a place 100 cubits square, double-ditch’d. The earth of the ditches is thrown inward between the ditches, so as to a raise a terrace, going quite round. The ditches are too inconsiderable to be made for defence. Within are seemingly remains of stone walls. ’Tis within sight of the temple, and has a fine prospect all around, being seated on the highest part of the ridge. A little further is a small round barrow, with stone-work at the east end, like that before spoken of near _Rowldrich_; a dry stone wall or fence running quite over it, across the heath.

Return we nearer to the temple, and we see 300 paces directly east from it in the same field, a remarkable monument much taken notice of; ’tis what the old _Britons_ call a _Kist vaen_ or stone chest; I mean the _Welsh_, the descendants of those invaders from the continent, _Belgæ_, _Gauls_ and _Cimbrians_, who drove away the aboriginal inhabitants, that made the works we are treating of, still northward. Hence they gave them these names from appearances; as _Rowldrich_, the _wheel or circle of the Druids_; as _Stonehenge_ they call’d _choir gaur_, the _giants’ dance_; as our _saxon_ ancestors call’d it _Stonehenge_, the _hanging-stones_, or _stone-gallows_. Every succession of inhabitants being still further remov’d from a true notion and knowledge of the things.

Our _Kist vaen_ is represented in plates VI. and VII. One shews the foreside, the other the backside; so that there needs but little description of it. ’Tis compos’d of six stones, one broader for the back-part, two and two narrower for the sides, set square to the former; and above all, as a cover, a still larger. The opening is full west, to the temple, or _Rowldrich_. It stands on a round _tumulus_, and has a fine prospect south-westward down the valley, where the head of the river _Evenlode_ runs. I persuade myself this was merely monumental, erected over the grave of some great person there buried; most probably the king of the country, when this temple was built. And if there was any use of the building, it might possibly be some way accommodated to some anniversary commemoration of the deceased, by feasts, games, exercises, or the like, as we read in the classic poets, who describe customs ancienter than their own times. It is akin to that _Kist vaen_ in _Cornwall_, which I have drawn in plate XXXVII.

_View of the Kistvaen of Rowldrich from the Southwest._

_Stukeley del._ _Vᵈʳ. Gucht. Sculp._]

Near the arch-druid’s barrow, by that call’d the _Kingstone_, is a square plat, oblong, form’d on the turf. Hither, on a certain day of the year, the young men and maidens customarily meet, and make merry with cakes and ale. And this seems to be the remain of the very ancient festival here celebrated in memory of the interr’d, for whom the long barrow and temple were made. This was the sepulture of the arch-druid founder. At _Enston_, a little way off, between _Neat Enston_ and _Fulwell_, by the side of a bank or _tumulus_, stands a great stone, with other smaller. ’Tis half a mile south-west of _Enston_ church. A famous barrow at _Lineham_, by the banks of the _Evenlode_.

7. Mr. _Camden_ writes further concerning our antiquity, that “the country people have a fond tradition, that they were once men, turn’d into stones. The highest of all, which lies out of the ring, they call the _king_. Five larger stones, which are at some distance from the circle, set close together, they pretend were knights, the ring were common soldiers.” This story the country people, for some miles round, are very fond of, and take it very ill if any one doubts of it; nay, they are in danger of being stoned for their unbelief. They have likewise rhymes and sayings relating thereto. Suchlike reports are to be met with in other like works, our Druid temples. They savour of the most ancient and heroic times. Like _Perseus_, turning men into stones; like _Cadmus_, producing men from serpents’ teeth; like _Deucalion_, by throwing stones over his head, and such like, which we shall have occasion to mention again, chap. XIV.

8. We may very reasonably affirm, that this temple was built here, on account of this long barrow. And very often in ancient times temples owe their foundation to sepulchres, as well as now. _Clemens Alexandrinus_ in _Protrept._ and _Eusebius_, both allow it; and it is largely treated of in _Schedius_ and other authors; ’tis a common thing among these works of our Druids, and an argument that this is a work of theirs. I shall only make two observations therefrom. 1. That it proceeded from a strong notion in antiquity of a future state, and that in respect of their bodies as well as souls; for the temples are thought prophylactic, and have a power of protecting and preserving the remains of the dead. 2. That it was the occasion of consecrating and idolizing of dead heroes, the first species of idolatry; for they by degrees advanc’d them into those deities of which these figures were symbols, whereof we shall meet with instances in the progress of this work.

Thus we pronounce _Rowldrich_ a Druid temple, from a concurrence of all the appearances to be expected in the case; from its round form, situation on high ground, near springs, on an extended heath, from the stones taken from the surface of the ground, from the name, from the measure it is built on, from the wear of the weather, from the barrows of various kinds about it, from ancient reports, from its apparent conformity to those patriarchal temples mentioned in scripture. This is the demonstration to be expected in such antiquities. Nor shall I spend time in examining the notion of its belonging to _Rollo_ the _Dane_, and the like. Mr. _Camden_ had too much judgment to mention it. ’Tis confuted in the annotations to _Britannia_, and in _Selden_’s notes on _Drayton_’s _Polyolbion_, page 224. And let this suffice for what I can say upon this curious and ancient monument: the first kind, and most common of the Druid temples, a plain circle: of which there are innumerable all over the _Britannick_ isles; being the original form of all temples, ’till the Mosaick tabernacle.

CHAP. III.

Abury, _the most extraordinary work in the world, being a
serpentine temple, or of the second kind, described. Now was
the critical time of saving the memory of it. Account of the
place. Natural history. The gray weathers, call’d_ Sarsens, _a_
phœnician _word, meaning a rock. Whence the name of the city of_
Tyre. _Their weight and texture. The wear of the weather, more
apparent here, than at_ Stonehenge, _an argument of its being a
much older work._

When we contemplate the elegance of this country of _Wiltshire_, and the great works of antiquity therein, we may be persuaded, that the two atlantic islands, and the islands of the blessed, which _Plato_ and other ancient writers mention, were those _in reality_ of _Britain_ and _Ireland_. They who first took possession of this country, thought it worthy of their care, and built those noble works therein, which have been the admiration of all ages. _Stonehenge_ we have endeavoured to describe; and we are not more surpriz’d at the extraordinary magnitude of this work of _Abury_, than that it should have escap’d the observation of the curious: a place in the direct _Bath_-road from _London_. Passing from _Marlborough_ hither, ’tis the common topic of amusement for travellers, to observe the gray weathers on _Marlborough_ downs, which are the same kind of stones as this of our antiquity, lying dispers’d, on the surface of the ground, as nature originally laid them. When we come to this village, we see the largest of those stones in great numbers, set upright in the earth, in circles, in parallel lines and other regular figures, and a great part inclos’d in a vast circular ditch, of above 1000 foot diameter. And what will further excite one’s curiosity, the _vallum_ or earth, which is of solid chalk, dug out of that ditch, thrown on the outside; quite contrary to the nature of castles and fortifications. The ditch alone, which is wide and deep, is a very great labour, and the rampart very high, and makes the appearance of a huge amphitheatre, for an innumerable company of spectators; but cannot possibly be design’d for offence or defence. This is twice passed by all the travellers: and its oddness would arrest one’s attention, if the stones escap’d it.

_A Scenographic view of the Druid temple of ABVRY in north
Wiltshire, as in its original._

_W. Stukeley Delin._

_Præhonorabili Dño. Dño. Philippo Dño. Hardwick, summo magnæ
Brittanniæ Cancellario tabulam. L.M.D. W. Stukeley._]

The mighty carcase of _Stonehenge_ draws great numbers of people, out of their way every day, as to see a sight: and it has exercis’d the pens of the learned to account for it. But _Abury_ a much greater work and more extensive design, by I know not what unkind fate, was altogether overlooked, and in the utmost danger of perishing, thro’ the humor of the country people, but of late taken up, of demolishing the stones. Mr. _Camden_ the great light of _British_ antiquities, took _Kennet_ avenue to be plain rocks, and that the village of _Rockley_ took its name from them. It is strange that two parallel lines of great stones, set at equal distance and intervals, for a mile together, should be taken for rocks in their natural site. As for the town of _Rockley_, ’tis four miles off, has nothing to do with this antiquity, tho’ probably had its name from the adjacent gray weathers, whence our stones were drawn.

Dr. _Holland_, his annotator, writes thus of it. “Within one mile of _Selbury_, (by which he means _Silbury-hill_) is _Abury_, an uplandish village, built in an old camp, as it seemeth, but of no large compass. It is environed with a fair trench, and hath four gates, in two of which stand huge stones, as jambs; but so rude, that they seem rather natural than artificial: of which sort, there are some other, in the said village.” In the time, when this was wrote, all the circles of these great stones, within the village of _Abury_, were nearly perfect; two of about 150 foot diameter, two of 300 foot diameter, and the great one of above 1000: which merited a higher notice. The largeness of the circles hinder’d an incurious spectator from discerning their purpose.

I persuade my self the intelligent reader, by casting his eye over the plate in the frontispiece, being the village of _Abury_, will see enough to excite a vast idea of the place: more so, if they conceive that the two avenues of _Kennet_ and _Bekamton_, going off at the bottom, to the right and the left, extend themselves each, above a mile from the town.

Dr. _Childrey_ likewise, in his _Britannia Baconica_, takes these stones about _Kennet_ to be mere rocks. Thus if our minds are not properly dispos’d for these inquiries, or we believe nothing great in art, preceded the times of the _Romans_, we may run into _Munster_’s error, in _cosmograph._ iii. 49. who believes, plain _celtic_ urns dug up in _Poland_, to be the work of nature. _Harrington_ in his notes on _Orlando furioso_ speaks likewise of _Abury_.

Just before I visited this place, to endeavour at preserving the memory of it, the inhabitants were fallen into the custom of demolishing the stones, chiefly out of covetousness of the little _area_ of ground, each stood on. First they dug great pits in the earth, and buried them. The expence of digging the grave, was more than 30 years purchase of the spot they possess’d, when standing. After this, they found out the knack of burning them; which has made most miserable havock of this famous temple. One _Tom Robinson_ the _Herostratus_ of _Abury_, is particularly eminent for this kind of execution, and he very much glories in it. The method is, to dig a pit by the side of the stone, till it falls down, then to burn many loads of straw under it. They draw lines of water along it when heated, and then with smart strokes of a great sledge hammer, its prodigious bulk is divided into many lesser parts. But this _Atto de fe_ commonly costs thirty shillings in fire and labour, sometimes twice as much. They own too ’tis excessive hard work; for these stones are often 18 foot long, 13 broad, and 6 thick; that their weight crushes the stones in pieces, which they lay under them to make them lie hollow for burning; and for this purpose they raise them with timbers of 20 foot long, and more, by the help of twenty men; but often the timbers were rent in pieces.

They have sometimes us’d of these stones for building houses; but say, they may have them cheaper, in more manageable pieces, from the gray weathers. One of these stones will build an ordinary house; yet the stone being a kind of marble, or rather granite, is always moist and dewy in winter, which proves damp and unwholsom, and rots the furniture. The custom of thus destroying them is so late, that I could easily trace the _obit_ of every stone; who did it, for what purpose, and when, and by what method, what house or wall was built out of it, and the like. Every year that I frequented this country, I found several of them wanting; but the places very apparent whence they were taken. So that I was well able, as then, to make a perfect ground-plot of the whole, and all its parts. This is now twenty years ago. ’Tis to be fear’d, that had it been deferr’d ’till this time, it would have been impossible. And this stupendous fabric, which for some thousands of years had brav’d the continual assaults of weather, and by the nature of it, when left to itself, like the pyramids of _Egypt_, would have lasted as long as the globe, must have fallen a sacrifice to the wretched ignorance and avarice of a little village unluckily plac’d within it; and the curiosity of the thing would have been irretrievable.

Such is the modern history of _Abury_, which I thought proper to premise, to prepare the mind of the reader. All this was done in my original memoirs, which I wrote on the spot, very largely. Tho’ it was necessary for me then to do it, in order to get a thorough intelligence of the work; yet I shall commit nothing more to the press, than what I judge absolutely necessary to illustrate it.

In regard to the natural history of the stones, ’tis the same as that of _Stonehenge_, which is compos’d of the very same stones, fetch’d from the same _Marlborough-downs_, where they lie on the surface of the ground in great plenty, of all dimensions. This was the occasion, why the Druids took the opportunity of building these immense works in this country. The people call these great stones, _sarsens_; and ’tis a proverb here, _as hard as a sarsen_; a mere _phœnician_ word, continued here from the first times, signifying a _rock_. The very name of _Tyre_ is hence derived, of which largely and learnedly _Bochart_, _Canaan_ II. 10. This whole country, hereabouts, is a solid body of chalk, cover’d with a most delicate turf. As this chalky matter harden’d at creation, it spew’d out the most solid body of the stones, of greater specific gravity than itself; and assisted by the centrifuge power, owing to the rotation of the globe upon its axis, threw them upon its surface, where they now lie. This is my opinion concerning this appearance, which I often attentively consider’d. ’Tis worth while for a curious observer to go toward the northern end of that great ridge of hills overlooking _Abury_ from the east, call’d the _Hakpen_, an oriental name too, that has continued to it from _Druid_ times. A little to the right hand of the road coming from _Marlborough_ to _Abury_, where are three pretty barrows, and another dish-like barrow, if we look downwards to the side of the hill toward _Abury_, we discern many long and straight ridges of natural stone, the same as the gray weathers, as it were emerging out of the chalky surface. They are often cross’d by others in straight lines, almost at right angles. For hereabouts, it seems, that the chalk contracting itself, and growing closer together, as it hardened, thrust the lapidescent matter into these fissures. ’Tis a very pretty appearance. This is near that part of the _downs_ call’d _Temple-downs_. There are no quarries, properly speaking, nearer _Abury_ than _Swindon_, and those have not long been dug. In _Caln_ they dig up a paltry kind of stone, fit for nothing but mending the highways. But our gray weather stone is of so hard a texture, that Mr. _Ayloff_ of _Wooton-basset_ hewed one of them to make a rape-mill stone, and employ’d twenty yoke of oxen to carry it off. Yet so great was its weight, that it repeatedly broke all his tackle in pieces, and he was forc’d to leave it. It may be said of many one of our gray weathers,

_Est moles nativa, loco res nomina fecit.
Appellant saxum, pars bona montis ea est._ Ovid.

Lord _Pembroke_ caus’d several of these stones to be dug under, and found them loose, and detach’d. My lord computed the general weight of our stones at above fifty tun, and that it required an hundred yoke of oxen to draw one. Dr. _Stephen Hales_ makes the larger kind of them to be seventy tun. Mr. _Edward Llwyd_, in his account of the natural history of _Wales_, _Phil. Trans. abridg’d_, Vol. V. 2. p. 118. writes, he found a strange appearance of great stones, and loose fragments of rocks on the surface of the earth, not only on wide plains, but on the tops too of the highest mountains. So the moor stones on the wastes and hill-tops of _Cornwall_, _Derbyshire_, _Devonshire_, _Yorkshire_, and other places, of a harder nature than these, and much the same as the _Egyptian granite_.

_The Roman road leading from Bekampton to Hedington July 18. 1723._

_Stukeley del._ _Vᵈʳ. Gucht. Sculp._]

As to the internal texture of this stone, when broke, it looks whitish like marble. It would bear a pretty good polish, but for a large quantity of bluish granules of sand, which are soft, and give it a grayish or speckled colour, when smooth’d by an engine. It consists, as all other stones, of a mixture of divers substances, united by lapidescent juices, in a sufficient tract of time. Sometimes in one stone shall be two or three colours, sometimes bits of flints kneaded amongst the rest. In one stone fetch’d from _Bekamton_ avenue, near _Longstone barrow_ (as commonly call’d) and which was broken and made into a wall, at the little alehouse above _Bekamton_, in the _Devizes_ road, I saw several bones, plainly animal, part of the composition of the stone. This I admir’d very much, and concluded it to be antediluvian. The stone in general is shining, close, and hard, little inferior to common marble; yet the effect which time and weather has had upon it, far beyond what is visible at _Stonehenge_, must necessarily make us conclude the work to be many hundred years older in date. In some places I could thrust my cane, a yard long, up to the handle, in holes and cavities worn through by age, which must needs bespeak some thousands of years continuance.

CHAP. IV.

_The figure of the temple of_ Abury _is a circle and snake._
Hakpen, _another oriental word still preserved here, meaning
the_ serpent’s head. _The chorography of_ Abury. _A description
of the great circle of stones_ 1400 _foot in diameter. Of the
ditch inclosing it. The vallum form’d on the outside, like an
amphitheater to the place. This represents the circle in the
hieroglyphic figure. Of the measures, all referring to the
ancient eastern cubit which the Druids us’d._

The situation of _Abury_ is finely chose for the purpose it was destin’d to, being the more elevated part of a plain, from whence there is an almost imperceptible descent every way. But as the religious work in _Abury_, tho’ great in itself, is but a part of the whole, (the avenues stretching above a mile from it each way,) the situation of the intire design is likewise projected with great judgment, in a kind of large, separate plain, four or five miles in diameter. Into this you descend on all sides from higher ground. The country north of _Abury_, about _Berwick-basset_ and _Broad Hinton_, is very high, tho’ not appearing so to be, and much above the level of _Abury_ town. In a field of _Broad Hinton_ the water runs two ways, into the _Thames_ and _Severn_, and they pretend ’tis the highest ground in _England_. ’Tis indeed part of that very great ridge of hills, coming from _Somersetshire_, and going hence north-eastward, to the _white-horse hill_. So that the ground northward and westward, tho’ not much appearing so, is still very high, a cliff descending that way; and whilst guarded to the east by the _Hakpen_, yet it may be called like the _thessalian_, of the same name,

——_Zephyris agitata Tempe._ Hor.

The whole temple of _Abury_ may be consider’d as a picture, and it really is so. Therefore the founders wisely contriv’d, that a spectator should have an advantageous prospect of it, as he approach’d within view. To give the reader at once a foreknowledge of this great and wonderful work, and the magnificence of the plan upon which it is built, I have design’d it scenographically in TABLE VIII. the eye being somewhat more elevated than on the neighbouring hill of _Wansdike_, which is its proper point of sight, being south from it.

When I frequented this place, as I did for some years together, to take an exact account of it, staying a fortnight at a time, I found out the entire work by degrees. The second time I was here, an avenue was a new amusement. The third year another. So that at length I discover’d the mystery of it, properly speaking; which was, that the whole figure represented a snake transmitted thro’ a circle; this is an hieroglyphic or symbol of highest note and antiquity.

In order to put this design in execution, the founders well studied their ground; and, to make their representation more natural, they artfully carry’d it over a variety of elevations and depressures, which, with the curvature of the avenues, produces sufficiently the desired effect. To make it still more elegant and picture-like, the head of the snake is carried up the southern promontory of the _Hakpen_ hill, towards the village of _West Kennet_; nay, the very name of the hill is deriv’d from this circumstance, meaning the head of the snake; of which we may well say with _Lucan_, _lib._ IV.

_Hinc ævi veteris custos, famosa vetustas
Miratrixque sui signavit nomine terras,
Sed majora dedit cognomina collibus istis._

Again, the tail of the snake is conducted to the descending valley below _Bekamton_.

_Stukeley d._

_Prospect of the Roman Road & Wansdike Just above Calston May 20.
1724.
This demonstrates that Wansdike was made before the Roman Road._]

Thus our antiquity divides itself into three great parts, which will be our rule in describing the work. The circle at _Abury_, the fore-part of the snake, leading towards _Kennet_, which I call _Kennet-avenue_; the hinder part of the snake, leading towards _Bekamton_, which I call _Bekamton-avenue_; for they may well be look’d on as avenues to the great temple at _Abury_, which part must be more eminently call’d the temple.

This town is wrote _Aubury_, _Avebury_, _Avesbury_, sometimes _Albury_: ’tis hard to say which is the true. The former three names may have their origin from the brook running by, _au_, _aux_, water, _awy_ in _welsh_; the old _german_ _aha_. The latter points to _Aldbury_, or _old work_, regarding its situation within the _vallum_. Nor is it worth while to dwell on its etymology; the _saxon_ name is a thing of so low a date, in comparison of what we are writing upon, that we expect no great use from it; unless _Albury_ has regard to _al_, _hal_, _healle_, _gothicè_ [symbols] a _temple_ or _great building_. There are two heads of the river _Kennet_ rising near it: one from a little north-west of _Abury_, at _Monkton_, runs southward to _Silbury-hill_; this affords but little water, except in wet seasons. At _Silbury-hill_ it joins the _Swallow_ head, or true fountain of the _Kennet_, which the country people call by the old name, _Cunnit_; and it is not a little famous among them. This is a plentiful spring. It descends between _east_ and _west Kennet_, by the temple on _Overton-hill_, which is properly the head of the snake: it passes by _Overton_, and so to _Marlborough_, the _roman_ _Cunetio_, which has its name from the river.

To conduct the reader the better through this great work, I must remind him of what I wrote in the account of _Stonehenge_, p. 11, concerning the Druid cubit or measure, by which they erected all their structures, that ’tis 20 inches and four fifths of the _english_ standard. For this purpose I have repeated the plate wherein the _english_ foot and Druid cubit is compar’d to any lengths, which must necessarily accompany us in the description. A ready way of having the analogism between our feet and the cubits is this, 3 foot 5 inches and a half makes 2 cubits. A staff of 10 foot, 4 inches, and a little more than half an inch, becomes the measuring-reed of these ancient philosophers, being 6 cubits, when they laid out the ground-plot of these temples; where we now are to pursue the track of their footsteps which so many ages have pass’d over.

The whole of this temple, wherein the town of _Abury_ is included I have laid down in TABLE I, the frontispiece, done from innumerable mensurations, by which means I fully learn’d the scheme and purport of the founders. ’Tis comprehended within a circular ditch or trench above 1400 foot in diameter, which makes 800 cubits, being two _stadia_ of the ancients. A _radius_ of 400 cubits, one _stadium_, struck the inner periphery of the ditch, in the turf. This is done with a sufficient, tho’ not a mathematical exactness. They were not careful in this great measure, where preciseness would have no effect, seeing the whole circle cannot be taken in by the eye on the same level. The ditch is near 80 foot, which is 45 cubits broad, very deep, like the foss that encompasses an old castle. The great quantity of solid chalk dug out of it, is thrown on the outside, where it forms a mighty _vallum_, an amphitheatrical terrace, which hides the sight of the town as we come near it, and affords a good shelter from the winds. ’Tis of the same breadth at bottom as the ditch at top. The compass of this, on the outside, Mr. _Roger Gale_ and I measured about 4800 feet, _August 16, 1721_.

The included _area_ of the temple containing about 22 acres, I observ’d to have a gentle descent, from the meridian line of it to the east, and to the west: carrying the rain off both ways. The north point is the highest part of the whole. About 35 feet or 20 cubits within the verge of this circular ditch, is a great circle of _great_ stones. The epithet may well be redoubled. These great masses are really astonishing, if we contemplate a single stone, and consider how it was brought hither, and set upright in the ground, where it has stood, I doubt not, 3 or 4 thousand years. But how is the wonder heightened, when we see the number one hundred, which composes this mighty circle of 1300 foot diameter! The stones of this circle, tho’ unhewn, are generally about 15, 16, or 17 foot high, and near as much in breadth. About 43 _English_ feet, measures regularly from the center of one stone, to the center of the other. Look into the scale and we discern these measures of the height and breadth of the stones. 17 feet is ten cubits; 43 feet the central distance from stone to stone, is 25 cubits of the Druids; so that the interval between is 15 cubits. Tho’ this be the general and stated measure, which was proposed by the founders, where the stones suited, and of the largest dimensions, yet we must understand this, as in all their works, with some latitude. The ancients studied a certain greatness: to produce an effect, not by a servile exactness no way discernible in great works, but in securing the general beauty; especially we must affirm this of our Druids, who had to do with these unshapely masses, and where religion forbad them applying a tool. But the purpose they proposed, was to make the breadth of the stone to the interval, to be as two to three. They very wisely judg’d that in such materials, where the scantlings could not be exact, the proportions must still be adjusted agreeable to their diversities, and this both in respect of the particulars, and of the general distance to be filled up. These stones were all fetched from the surface of the downs. They took the most shapely, and of largest dimensions first; but when ’twas necessary to make use of lesser stones, they set them closer together, and so proportion’d the solid and the vacuity, as gave symmetry in appearance, and a regularity to the whole.

Therefore tho’ 25 cubits be the common measure of the interval between center and center of the largest stones of this circle, yet this is not always the rule; for if we measure the two stones west of the north entrance (which entrance was made for the convenience of the town, by throwing the earth of the _vallum_ into it again) you will find it to be about 27 feet. This is but 16 of the Druid cubits, and here us’d, because these stones are but of moderate bulk. The next intervals are 43 feet as usual, being of the larger kind of stones, so plac’d 25 cubits central distance, and then they proceed. This is in that call’d pasture IIII. in the ground plot.

I have always been at first in some perplexity in measuring and adjusting these works of the Druids, and they seem’d magical, ’till I became master of their purpose. Therefore to make it very plain to the reader, I shall repeat what I have deliver’d in other words, concerning this great circle, which is a general rule for all others.

Rundway hill 18 Iuly, 1723.

_Stukeley del._

A. _Bekhampton._ B. _the Model of a Camp._ C. _Celtic barrows._
D. _the way to_ Verlucio.]

As to the construction of this circle, by diligent observation, I found this to be the art of the Druids. ’Tis not to be thought, they would be at the trouble of bringing so many mountains together, of placing them in a regular form, without seeking how to produce the best effect therein, and thus they obtain’d their purpose. As it was necessary, the stones should be rude and native, untouch’d of tool, and that it was impossible to procure them of the dimensions exactly; they consider’d that the beauty in their appearance must be owing to their conformity, as near as may be, and to the proportion between the solid and the void interval. This _ratio_ with judgment they chose to be as two to three: two parts the breadth of the stone, the interval three. And this they accommodated to the whole circle. So that they first brought 100 of their choicest stones together, and laid them in the destin’d circle, at the intended distances, according to that proportion: and then raised them into their respective places.

Hence I find, that where the stones are 15, 16, or 17 feet high above ground, and as much broad, as for the most part they are, about 43 _English_ feet measures, from the center of one stone to the center of another; there the square of the solid or stone is ten cubits, the void or interval is 15: the whole central distance 25. Therefore the proportion of the solid to the void is as two to three.

But before I found out this key to the work, I met with a good deal of difficulty, because the central intervals and the voids were different, for they proportion’d these to the breadths of the stones, as above. Still they chose whole numbers of cubits for that proportion; for instance, in the stones at the northern and modern entrance, where they are but of a moderate bulk, you measure but about 27 feet central distance. This is 16 cubits.

Further I observ’d, they took care to make a reasonable gradation, between greater and lesser stones, not to set a great stone and a little one near one another, but make a gradual declension; by this means in the whole, the eye finds no difference. The proportion of solid and void being the same, the whole circle appears similar and altogether pleasing.

I thought it adviseable to give a plate of a very small part of this magnificent circle, being 3 stones now standing _in situ_. ’Tis a most august sight, and whence we may learn somewhat of the appearance of the whole.

I observ’d further, that as these stones generally have a rough and a smoother side; they took care to place the most sightly side of the stone inwards, toward the included _area_. For this vast circle of stones is to be understood, as the portico inclosing the temple properly. Between this circle and the ditch is an esplanade or circular walk quite round, which was extraordinary pretty when in its perfection. It was originally 25 cubits broad, equal to the central distances of the stones. The quickset hedges now on the place, sometimes take the range of the stones, sometimes are set on the verge of the ditch. Further I observ’d they set the largest and handsomest stones in the more conspicuous part of the temple, which is that southward, and about the two entrances of the avenues.

Out of this noble circle of stones 100 in number, there was left in the year 1722, when I began to write, above 40 still visible: whereof 17 were standing, 27 thrown down or reclining. Ten of the remainder all contiguous, were at once destroy’d by _Tom Robinson_, _anno_ 1700, and their places perfectly levelled, for the sake of the pasturage. In the north entrance of the town one of the stones, of a most enormous bulk, fell down, and broke in the fall.

——_nec ipso
monte minor procumbit_.—— Virg.

It measured full 22 feet long. _Reuben Horsall_, clerk of the parish, a sensible man and lover of antiquity, remembers it standing. And when my late lord _Winchelsea_ (_Heneage_) was here with me, we saw three wooden wedges driven into it, in order to break it in pieces.

In the great frontispiece plate, I have noted many dates of years, when such and such stones were demolished, and took down the particulars of all: some are still left buried in the pastures, some in gardens. I was apt to leave this wish behind;

_Pro molli viola, pro purpureo narcisso
Carduus, & spinis surgat paliurus acutis!_ Virg.

The seat of many is visible by the remaining hollow; of others by a hill above the interr’d. Of many then lately carry’d off the places were notorious, by nettles and weeds growing up, and no doubt many are gone since I left the place. But the ground-plot representing the true state of the town and temple, when I frequented it, I spare the reader’s patience in being too particular about it.

When this mighty colonnade of 100 of these stones was in perfection, there must have been a most agreeable circular walk, between them and the ditch; and it’s scarce possible for us to form a notion of the grand and beautiful appearance it must then have made.

_A peice of the great circle, or
A View at the South Entrance into the temple at Abury Aug. 1722._

_Stukeley delin._]

CHAP. V.

_Of the two great temples included in the area of the great circle
of stones. Each consists of two concentrick circles. One has a
central obelisc or ambre, a very high stone in the center. The_
Egyptians _called an obelisc an ambre. The other temple has a
cove in the center, compos’d of three stones of a stupendous
bulk, set in a nich-like figure. A short history of the
destroyers of this noble work, but a very few years ago._

The great circle of stones last described, together with the ditch and rampart inclosing all, may be esteemed as the _præcinctus_ of the temple, not properly the temple; but including the area thereof. There are strictly within this great compass, two temples, of like form and dimensions: each temple consists of two concentric circles. The line that connects their centers, runs from north-west to south-east: which line passes thro’ the center of the whole area. The outer circles of them consist each of 30 stones of like dimensions with those of the outer circle, and at like intervals. The inner circles of both consist each of 12 stones, of the same size and distances. The geometry therefore of them, when laid down on paper, shews, the inner circle must be 100 cubits in diameter, the outer 240.

The centers of these two double circles are 300 cubits asunder. Their circumferences or outward circles are 50 cubits asunder, in the nearest part. By which means they least embarrass each other, and leave the freest space about ’em, within the great circular portico (as we may call it) inclosing the whole; which we described in the former chapter. There is no other difference between these two temples (properly) which I could discover, save that one, the southermost, has a central obelisc, which was the kibla, whereto they turn’d their faces, in the religious offices there performed: the other has that immense work in the center, which the old _Britons_ call a cove: consisting of three stones plac’d with an obtuse angle toward each other, and as it were, upon an ark of a circle, like the great half-round at the east end of some old cathedrals: or like the upper end of the cell at _Stonehenge_; being of the same use and intent, the _adytum_ of this temple. This I have often times admir’d and been astonish’d at its extravagant magnitude and majesty. It stands in the yard belonging to the inn. King _Charles_ II. in his progress this way, rode into the yard, on purpose to view it.

This cove of the northern temple was undoubtedly the _kibla_ thereof. It opens pretty exactly north-east, as at _Stonehenge_. It measures 34 foot, from the edge of the outer jambs; 20 cubits: and half as much in depth. _Varro_ V. _divinorum_, writes, altars were of old call’d _ansæ_. So _Macrobius saturn._ II. 11. It seems that they mean this figure before us. And I suppose ’tis what _Schedius_ means; _de dis germ._ c. 25. speaking of altars among the old _germans_ set in a triangle, he says, the Druids understood a mystery thereby. Perhaps they intended it for a nich-like hemispherical figure, in some sort to represent the heavens. _Sex. Pompeius_ writes, the ancients called the heavens, _cove_. The altar properly lay upon the ground before this superb nich. That, no doubt, was carry’d off long ago, as not being fix’d in the earth, and one of the wings is gone too, the northern. It fell down 1713, as marked in the ground-plot.

_Fit sonus ingenti concussa est pondere tellus._ Virg.

They told me it was full seven yards long, of the same shape as its opposite, tall and narrow. We measur’d this 17 foot above ground, 10 whole cubits; 7 foot broad, two and a half thick. These were the _ansæ_ or wings of this noble ellipsis. That on the back, or in the middle, is much broader, being 15 foot, as many high, 4 thick; but a great piece of one side of it has been broke off by decay of the stone. We cannot conceive any thing bolder, than the idea of those people that entertain’d a design of setting up these stones. The vulgar call them the _devil’s brand-irons_, from their extravagant bulk, and chimney-like form. These coves, as _Maundrel_ says of the _turkish kiblas_, shew the Druids’ aversion to idolatry, expressing the reality of the divine presence there, and at the same time its invisibility; no doubt a most ancient and oriental custom.

Of the exterior circle of this northern temple but three stones are now left standing, six more lying on the ground, one whereof in the street by the inn-gate. People yet alive remember several standing in the middle of the street; they were burnt for building, _anno_ 1711. That at the corner of the lane, going to the north gate of the town, not many years since lying on the ground, was us’d as a stall to lay fish on, when they had a kind of market here. The ruin of the rest is noted in the ground-plot, and so of the others. But they told us, that about a dozen years ago both circles were standing, and almost entire. Those in the closes behind the inn, were taken up a year ago; (this was when I first went thither, about 1718,) farmer _Green_ chiefly demolished them to build his house and walls at _Bekamton_. Of the southern temple several stones were destroy’d by farmer _John Fowler_, twelve years ago; he own’d to us that he burnt five of them; but fourteen are still left, whereof about half standing. Some lie along in the pastures, two let into the ground under a barn, others under the houses. One lies above ground under the corner of a house, over-against the inn. One buried under the earth in a little garden. The cavities left by some more are visible, in the places whereof ash-trees are set. All those in the pastures were standing within memory.

The central obelisk of this temple is of a circular form at base, of a vast bulk, 21 feet long, and 8 feet 9 inches diameter; when standing, higher than the rest. This is what the scripture calls a pillar, or standing image, _Levit._ xxvi. 1. These works, erected in the land of _Canaan_ by the same people, the _Phœnicians_, as erected ours, were ordered to be demolished by the _Israelites_, because at that time perverted to idolatry. All the stones, our whole temple, were called _ambres_, even by our _phœnician_ founders; but this particularly. The _Egyptians_ by that name call’d their obeliscs; which _Kircher_ did not rightly understand, interpreting it to be sacred books; but meaning _petræ ambrosiæ_, _main ambres in celtic, anointed, consecrated stone_; _Manah_, the name of a great stone of this sort which the _Arabians_ worshipped. They were called likewise, _gabal_, and the present word _kibla_ or _kebla_ comes from it, but in a larger sense. _Elagabalus_ is hence deriv’d after they turn’d these _kiblas_ into real deities. It means the _god obelisc_; and hence our _english_ words, _gable end_ of a house, _javelin_ or _roman pile_, and _gaveloc_ a _sharp iron bar_.

A View of the Remains of the Northern Temple at Abury. Aug. 1722.

_Stukeley del._

A. _Abury Steeple._ B. _the cove._ C. _Windmill hill._]

Exactly in the southern end of the line that connects the two centers of these temples, _viz._ in that pasture mark’d IX. in our ground-plot, is an odd stone standing, not of great bulk. It has a hole wrought in it, and probably was design’d to fasten the victim, in order for slaying it. This I call the _ring-stone_. From this we may infer the like use of that stone at _Stonehenge_, in the avenue near the entrance into the area of the temple. I spoke of it under the name of _crwm leche_, p. 33. It has a like hole in it.

These two temples were all that was standing originally in the great area, within the circular colonnade. Very probably it was the most magnificent patriarchal temple in the world. Now a whole village of about thirty houses is built within it. This area would hold an immense number of people at their panegyres and public festivals; and when the _vallum_ all around was cover’d with spectators, it form’d a most noble amphitheater, and had an appearance extremely august, during the administration of religious offices.

————_ter denas curia vaccas
Accipit, & largo sparsa cruore madet._ Ovid. fast. IV.

Each of these temples is four times as big as _Stonehenge_.

About 1694, _Walter Stretch_, father of one of the present inhabitants, found out the way of demolishing these stones by fire. He exercis’d this at first on one of the stones standing in the street before the inn, belonging to the outer circle of the southern temple. That one stone, containing 20 loads, built the dining-room end of the inn. Since then _Tom Robinson_, another _Herostratus_ of the place, made cruel havock among them. He own’d to us, that two of them cost eight pounds in the execution. Farmer _Green_ ruin’d many of the southern temple to build his houses and walls at _Bekamton_. Since then many others have occasionally practis’d the sacrilegious method, and most of the houses, walls, and outhouses in the town are raised from these materials. Sir _Robert Holford_ resented this destruction of them; and _Reuben Horsall_, parish-clerk, had a due veneration for these sacred remains, and assisted me in the best intelligence he was able to give. Concerning the purport of the disposition and manner of the temple hitherto described, I shall speak more largely in chap. X. toward the end, concluding this with an inscription of the _Triopian_ farm consecrated by _Herodes Atticus_.

_Ne cuiquam glebam, saxumve impune movere
Ulli sit licitum. Parcarum namque severæ
Pœnæ instant: siquis sacra scelus edat in æde.
Finitimi agricolæ, & vicini attendite cuncti,
Hic fundus sacer est; immotaque jura deorum._

CHAP. VI.

_Concerning antiquities found about this place; with a more
particular chorography of the country around. Description of
the_ roman _road here, via_ Badonica. _A plain demonstration
that these works we are writing upon, are older than the_ roman
_times. Another like demonstration. Of_ Divitiacus, _of the
british_ Belgæ, _who made the wansdike. A Druid axe or celt,
found under one of the stones in_ Abury. _Burnt bucks-horns,
charcoal, and the like._