Chapter IV: Part 4
’Till in the month of March, 1723, Mr. _Halford_ order’d some trees to be planted on this hill, in the middle of the noble plain or _area_ at the top, which is 60 cubits diameter. The workmen dug up the body of the great king there buried in the center, very little below the surface. The bones extremely rotten, so that they crumbled them in pieces with their fingers. The soil was altogether chalk, dug from the side of the hill below, of which the whole barrow is made. Six weeks after, I came luckily to rescue a great curiosity which they took up there; an iron chain, as they called it, which I bought of _John Fowler_, one of the workmen: it was the bridle buried along with this monarch, being only a solid body of rust. I immerg’d it in limner’s drying oil, and dried it carefully, keeping it ever since very dry. It is now as fair and entire as when the workmen took it up. I have given a sketch of it in plate XXXVI. There were deers’ horns, an iron knife with a bone handle too, all excessively rotten, taken up along with it.
_Pausanias_, in _Eliacis_, writes, how in his time, a _roman_ senator conquer’d at the _olympic_ games. He had a mind to leave a monument of his victory, being a brazen statue with an inscription. Digging for the foundation, just by the pillar of _Oenomaus_, they took up fragments of a shield, a bridle and _armilla_, which he saw.
Our bridle belong’d to the harness of a _british_ chariot, and brings into our thoughts the horses and chariots of _Egypt_, mention’d in earliest days. The _Tyrian Hercules_, who, I suppose, might bring the first oriental colony hither, was a king in _Egypt_. In scripture, when _Joseph_ was prime minister there, we find chariots frequently mention’d, both for civil and military use. In _Joshua_’s time, xvii. 16, 18. the _Canaanites_, _Rephaim_ or giants, (_Titans_) and _Perizzites_ had them. So the _Philistines_. Our ancestors the _Britons_ coming both from _Egypt_ and _Canaan_, brought hither the use of chariots; and they remain’d, in a manner, singular and proper to our island, to the time that the _romans_ peopled it. And it was fashionable for the _romans_ at _Rome_, in the height of their luxury, to have _british_ chariots, as we now _berlins_, _landaus_, and the like.
_Esseda cælatis siste Britanna jugis._
_Philostratus_, _vit. sophist._ xxv. _Polemon_, remarks the enameling and ornament of _phrygian_ and _celtic_ bridles, as being very curiously wrought. Ours is perfectly plain and rude; an argument of its great antiquity.
_Silbury_ is the name of the hill given by our _saxon_ ancestors, meaning the _great_ or _marvellous hill_. So _Silchester_, the _Vindoma_ of the _Romans_, means the _great Chester_. It cannot help us to the name of the monarch there buried. When I consider this hill standing at the fountain of the _Kennet Cunetio_, still call’d _Cunnet_ by the country people, and that among the most ancient _Britons_ the name of _Cunedha_ is very famous, that they talk much of a great king of this name, it would tempt one to conjecture, this is the very man. This conjecture receives some strength from what my old friend Mr. _Baxter_ writes about _Cunetio_ or _Marlborough_, which the river first visits. He thinks it had its name from a famous king, _Cunedha_, who lived at _Marlborough_, called _Kynyd Kynüidion_, which we may _english_, _Cunedha_ of _Marlborough_, which name is mention’d in the ancient _british_ genealogies before the grandfather of king _Arthur_; tho’ we scarce imagine their genealogies can truly reach the founder we are thinking of. But _Cyngetorix_, a king in _Britain_, who fought _Julius Cæsar_, and _Cunobelin_, king of the island in _Augustus_’s time, may be descendants of this man, at least their names have some relation. And in _Cæsar_’s _Comment._ B. G. VII. _Conetodunus_ a _gaulish_ prince, is the same name.
We may remember too, that _Merlin_ the magician, who is said to have made _Stonehenge_ by his magic, is affirm’d to have been buried at _Marlborough_. Mr. _Camden_ recites it from _Alexander Necham_. Doubtless _Stonehenge_, much more _Abury_, are incomparably older than _Merlin’s_ time. But the oldest reports we can expect to have of these affairs, must be from the _Britons_, the oldest inhabitants left. And ’tis natural for them to affix old traditions vastly beyond their knowledge, to the last famous persons they have any account of; so that we may well judge some truths are generally latent in these old reports. It is likely our king _Kunedha_ lived at _Marlborough_, was buried in _Silbury_, was the founder of _Abury_. And the archdruid, who with him was the projector and executor of the stupendous work of _Abury_, was buried at _Marlborough_. For _Marlborough_ is in sight of that part of the temple which is the _Hakpen_, or snake’s head, on _Overton-hill_.
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._
_Prospect of Kennet Avenue from the Druids tumulus on Hakpen hill.
May 15ᵗʰ. 1724._]
_Strabo_ writes in XII, that there is a _tumulus_ of king _Marsyas_, where he was buried, at the head of the river _Marsyas_. This seems to be an exact parallel case with ours, and that the river preserves the name of the king to this day, from whom it had its name. _Pausanias Bœot._ writes, the tomb of _Asphodicus_ is at the spring-head of the river _Oedipodias_. And _Tiresias_’s sepulchre is by the fountain _Telphussa_. And the like of very many more.
The person that projected the forming this vast body of earth, _Silbury-hill_, had a head as well as hands, and well chose his ground, well contriv’d how to execute his purpose. He pitch’d upon the foot of the chalk hill, by the fountain of the _Kennet_, in the very meridian line of _Abury_. The bottom of the hill is natural earth, and beyond the verge of its circumference at bottom, they dug the earth of the hill away to the level of the adjacent meadow, in order to furnish materials for the artificial part of the hill, leaving as it were an isthmus, or neck of original land. Further, to render this artificial part more detach’d from the natural, they dug a deep trench on the land-side, in the middle of the isthmus, but left two bridges, as it were, or passages up to the hill. By this means the ascent for the multitude employ’d, was render’d more easy, for the natural hill was as a half-pause or resting-place for them.
The diameter of _Silbury-hill_ at top is 105 feet, the same as _Stonehenge_. At bottom ’tis somewhat more than 500 feet, in reality 300 cubits, as at top 60 cubits. 100 cubits its exact perpendicular altitude. They that have seen the circumference of _Stonehenge_, will admire that such an _area_ should be carried up 170 feet perpendicular, with a sufficient base to support it: and they that consider the geometry of this barrow, as I have drawn it in plate XXVIII, will be equally pleased with the natural and easy proportion of it. But without actually seeing it, we can scarce have a full idea of it. The solid contents of it amount to 13558809 cubic feet. Some people have thought it would cost 20000_l._ to make such a hill.
Some old people remember king _Charles_ II, the duke of _York_, and duke of _Monmouth_ riding up it. The _Roman_ way, _via Badonica_, coming from _Overton-hill_ to _Runway-hill_, should have pass’d directly thro’ _Silbury-hill_; wherefore they curv’d a little southward to avoid it, and it runs close by the isthmus of the hill, then thro’ the fields of _Bekamton_. This shews _Silbury-hill_ was ancienter than the _Roman_ road. They have lately fenc’d out the _Roman_ road (which they call the _french way_) in the plough’d fields of _Bekamton_; but you see the continuation of it when it reaches the heath ground, as in plate IX.
It seems no difficult matter to point out the time of the year when this great prince died, who is here interr’d, _viz._ about the beginning of our present _April_. I gather it from this circumstance. The country people have an anniversary meeting on the top of _Silbury-hill_ on every _palm-sunday_, when they make merry with cakes, figs, sugar, and water fetch’d from the _swallow-head_, or spring of the _Kennet_. This spring was much more remarkable than at present, gushing out of the earth in a continued stream. They say it was spoil’d by digging for a fox who earth’d above, in some cranny thereabouts; this disturb’d the sacred nymphs, in a poetical way of speaking.
We observed before, concerning the temple of _Rowldrich_, there was a like anniversary meeting at that place, which doubtless has been continued thro’ all ages, and all succession of inhabitants, from the death of the arch-druid there buried. If we read the fifth _Æneid_ of _Virgil_, we shall there find the major part of it to be a description of the very matters we are writing of. The great poet who affectedly describes all ancient customs, speaks of his hero making a _tumulus_ for his father _Anchises_, and a temple and sacred grove; providing priests and officers necessary for that purpose. Celebrating the anniversary remembrance of his deceased parent, with great magnificence, with sacrifices, feasting, games, sports and exercises, and distributing rewards to the victors. So _Virgil_ in _Georg._ 3.
_Et viridi in campo templum de marmore ponam_, &c.
So _Herodotus_ describing the manner of sepulture among the _Thracians_ and _Macedonians_. The whole matter is so notorious, that I leave the reader to make the particular application and parallel. Here at _Silbury_, the country being all a fine and exquisite down, I cannot point out the place where the games were kept: perhaps on the meadow between _Abury_ and the hill.
I took notice that _apium_ grows plentifully about the spring-head of the _Kennet_. _Pliny_ writes _defunctorum epulis dicatum apium_. To this day the country people have a particular regard for the herbs growing there, and a high opinion of their virtue.
The king-barrows which are round, both here and elsewhere vary in their turn and shape, as well as magnitude, as we see in a group together; whereof still very many are left, many destroy’d by the plough. Some of the royal barrows are extremely old, being broad and flat, as if sunk into the ground with age. There is one near _Longstone_ cove set round with stones. I have depicted two groups of them, one by the serpent’s head, on _Overton-hill_; another by the serpent’s tail, in the way between _Bekamton_ and _Oldbury_ camp: some flat, some campani-form, some ditch’d about, some not. One near the temple on _Overton-hill_ was quite levell’d for ploughing _anno_ 1720; a man’s bones were found within a bed of great stones, forming a kind of arch. Several beads of amber long and round, as big as one’s thumb end, were taken from it, and several enamel’d _British_ beads of glass: I got some of them, white in colour, some were green. They commonly reported the bones to be larger than common. So _Virgil Georg._ 1.
_Grandiaque effossis mirabitur ossa sepulchris._
I bought a couple of _British_ beads, one large of a light blue and rib’d, the other less, of a dark blue, taken up in one of the two barrows on _Hakpen-hill_, east of _Kennet_ avenue. These two barrows are ditch’d about, and near one another. The single barrow next it toward the snake’s head temple, is large and beautifully turn’d, with a ditch about it, at a distance, which throws it into a campanule form.
_A Prospect from_ Abury _Steeple_.
_Stukeley d._]
Mr. _Bray_ of _Monkton_ open’d a barrow, among many others, at _Yatesbury_. There was a great stone laid at top, just under the surface. When taken up, they found a body laid in a stone coffin, form’d by several stones. He says, in another they found a body, with a flat gold ring, which was sold for 30_s._ and a piece of brass, about the bulk of a pint mug, with spear-heads of iron.
A man of _Ambresbury_, who had liv’d here, told me of a brass spear-head dug up in a barrow between _Monkton_ and _Abury_, by a body: and that under some stones in a barrow, south of _Silbury_, they found a bit of gold, (I suppose the covering of a button, or the like, such as that I dug up at _Stonehenge_,) and many sharp bits of iron.
Mr. _Aubury_ speaks of a barrow opened in _Kennet_ parish, _anno_ 1643, two stones 11 feet long, laid side by side, and a corps between, with a sword and knife. Another like stone laid over all.
There is a very delicate hill north of _Abury_, of a round form, with an easy ascent quite round; ’tis call’d _Windmill-hill_. The turf as soft as velvet. ’Tis encompass’d with a circular trench, exceeding old. Fifteen barrows of a most ancient shape thereon. Many barrows are on the top, of several shapes. I open’d a small one, very old, flat, and round, and found an entire urn turn’d up-side down, into a hole cut in the solid chalk. The bones very rotten. I have given a drawing of the urn, plate XXXVI. It was red without, black within, 14 inches high, 9 in diameter at the aperture, wrought a little both within and without, and at the bottom, which stood uppermost.
South of _Abury_ town is a hill, between it and _Silbury_, call’d _Windmill-hill_; it lies between our two avenues, and intercepts the view from one to the other. This too is crown’d with barrows of different sorts and sizes. The _Via Badonica_ runs on the southern skirt of it, going from _Overton-hill_ to _Silbury_. I took notice there of a barrow of that kind I call _Druids_. This happening too near the track of the _Roman_ road, it goes over part of it. Part is fill’d up, and the lump in the middle, under which the urn lay, they have dug away: A further demonstration, that it is of a date posterior to our _celtic_ works here. This hill too is call’d _Weedon-hill_, perhaps from the _Roman_ way.
At _Winterburn-basset_, a little north of _Abury_, in a field north-west of the church, upon elevated ground, is a double circle of stones concentric, 60 cubits diameter. The two circles are near one another, so that one may walk between. Many of the stones have of late been carry’d away. West of it is a single, broad, flat, and high stone, standing by itself. And about as far northward from the circle, in a plough’d field, is a barrow set round with, or rather compos’d of large stones. I take this double circle to have been a family-chapel, as we may call it, to an archdruid dwelling near thereabouts, whilst _Abury_ was his cathedral.
There are likewise about _Abury_ some pyriform barrows, longish, but broad at one end: some compos’d of earth, thrown into a _tumulus_. Of this sort a very long one in the valley from _Bekamton_ to _Runway-hill_. Another among the furze bushes south of _Silbury_, set with stones, which farmer _Green_ carry’d away. Others made of stones set upright in that form. Of the latter, a very large one in _Monkton-fields_, about 20 stones left on one side. ’Tis directly north of _Abury_ town. Another such south of _Silbury-hill_. Another pyriform, made only of earth, under _Runway-hill_. Another on the hill south-west from _Bekamton_, cut through with some later division dike.
The long barrows are what I call archdruids’. There are but few about _Abury_ left, and but two at _Stonehenge_. The paucity seems to confirm the notion. One very large at _East-Kennet_, points to _Abury_, but with its lesser end: no less than 200 cubits in length, which is 350 feet, a huge body of earth. Another not far off points to the snake’s head temple, being at a right angle with the former.
By _Horslip-gap_ is another considerable long barrow of a large bulk, length and height: it regards the snake’s head temple, tho’ here not in sight.
By _Bekamton_ cove another, a vast body of earth, as thick as the _vallum_ of _Abury_, and points to the cove hard by; which shews that cove to be as a chapel. Another large round barrow near it.
In _Monkton_, west of the town, is a large and flat long barrow, set round with stones, which I have depicted in plate XXX, ’tis just 120 cubits long, 30 cubits broad in the broadest end. It stands due east and west, the broadest end eastward. Its breadth the fourth part of its length: a most magnificent sepulchre, and call’d _Milbarrow_.
But even this is much exceeded in south long barrow, near _Silbury-hill_, south of it, and upon the bank of the _Kennet_. It stands east and west, pointing to the dragon’s head on _Overton-hill_. A very operose _congeries_ of huge stones upon the east end, and upon part of its back or ridge; pil’d one upon another, with no little labour: doubtless in order to form a sufficient chamber, for the remains of the person there buried; not easily to be disturbed. The whole _tumulus_ is an excessively large mound of earth 180 cubits long, ridg’d up like a house. And we must needs conclude, the people that made these durable _mausolea_, had a very strong hope of the resurrection of their bodies, as well as souls who thus provided against their being disturbed.
Upon the heath south of _Silbury-hill_, was a very large oblong work, like a long barrow, made only of stones pitch’d in the ground, no _tumulus_. Mr. _Smith_ beforemention’d told me, his cousin took the stones away (then) 14 years ago, to make mere stones withal. I take it to have been an archdruid’s, tho’ humble, yet magnificent; being 350 feet or 200 cubits long.
_Pausanias in Eliac._ II. writes, upon the bank of the river _Cladeus_ is the barrow of _Ænomaus_; of earth, incompass’d with stones. Again in _Arcadic._ he says, at _Pergamus_ is the monument of _Auge_, being a barrow of earth, incompass’d with a circle of stones. In the same _Arcadic._ Book VIII. he says, he studiously contemplated the _tumulus_ of _Æpitus_, because _Homer_ makes mention of it, admiring it, for he had seen no finer. ’Twas made of earth not very large, incompass’d with a circle of stones. Thus naturally does a genius admire works of antiquity! he seems thereby to antedate his own being, and to have lived in those times long before. He writes again _in Bœot._ at the barrow of _Amphion_ are many rude stones, which they report, were the stones he drew together with his harp. Likewise there are three rude stones near the tomb of _Melanippus_; and the antiquarians say, _Tydeus_ was buried there.
To go much higher in time, and equal to those we have been describing: _Genes._ xxxv. 20. _Jacob set a pillar upon Rachel’s grave._
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._
_Prospect of Bekampton Avenue from Longston long Barrow 1724._
☉☉ _Two Stones of the Avenue at the Crossing of the two Roads
demolish’d by Rᵈ. Fowler._ B. _the Termination of the avenue._]
CHAP. X.
_Of the arch-druid’s house on_ Temple-downs, _his barrow. Of their
places of judicature, and execution. Another Druid’s house
call’d_ old-Chapel _towards_ Winterburn-basset. _Another under
the_ Hakpen-hill, _over_ Kennet _avenue. Another at_ Bekamton.
_Another under_ Runway-hill. _A_ Kist-vaen _in_ Monkton-fields.
_Another in_ Clatford-bottom _by_ Marlborough. _Some general
reflexions. They must have been a very great and learned
people, that made this work of_ Abury. _The parish of_ Abury
_now comprehends many townships, taken in by the extent of the
snake. A notion of the snake, and its sacred quality retain’d
by the people, reporting no snake will live within this tract.
A conjecture concerning the time of founding this temple, which
carries it up to the time of_ Abraham, _or very near it; deduc’d
from the variation of the compass observ’d there. A mathematical
designation of the termination of_ Bekamton _avenue. The major
part of_ Virgil’s _fifth_ Æneid _is a description of like
anniversary games celebrated here, in old times._
There is still another of these long archdruids’ _tumuli_ at _Abury_, which leads me to describe a kind of ancient monuments which I meet with here, and near _Stonehenge_ and elsewhere; which I take to be houses of the Druids, or their courts of judicature, or both. The principal of them here, is a remarkable thing, upon the _Hakpen-hill_ east of _Abury_, near a mile, between it and _Rockley_. That part of the downs thereabouts is called _Temple-downs_, and the thing is called _old Chapel_. Lord _Winchelsea_, Lord and Lady _Hertford_ and myself were curious in observing it, _July 6, 1723_. ’Tis a large square, intrench’d, 110 druid cubits by 130, like a little _Roman_ camp, with one entrance on the south-west side, towards _Abury_: for it is posited with accuracy, (as all these works are) from north-east to south-west. The situation of the place is high, and has a descent, quite round three of its sides; the verge of the descent inclosing it like a horseshoe. The entrance is on the side next _Abury_, on the isthmus of the peninsula (as it were,) on the shortest side of the square, the south-west. It is made of a vallum and ditch; beyond that, a row of flat stones set quite round and pretty close to one another, like a wall. Beyond that, another lesser ditch. There are stones too set on each side the entrance. On the north-west side is a large long barrow 50 cubits in length, with two great stone works upon it. One on the end next the great inclos’d place, we have been describing: another stonework towards the other end; which seems to have been a semicircular cove, or _demi-ellipsis_ consisting of five great stones; a _Stonehenge_ cell in miniature, but now in ruins. This probably gave the name of _old Chapel_ to the place; the barrow likewise has been set quite round with great stones.
In the second stone-work, one stone lies flat on the ground, along the middle line of the barrow. On each side a flat stone stands upright, and two flat stones stand upright at right angles, as wings to ’em. Upon them I suppose other stones were pil’d as a _kist-vaen_. Here probably lies the body of the interr’d. The stones are generally very large, about ten feet long.
The whole I take to have been the palace and interment of an arch-druid, and his tribunal or seat of justice. ’Tis posited exactly enough south-east and north-west. The learned Mr. _Rowland_, who wrote the history of the _Isle of Mona_, describes just such works as this in that place, and calls them houses of the Druids.
This place stands near a great cavity call’d _Balmore-pond_, which seems to have some regard to this work. ’Tis a pyriform concavity, set with stones on the inside. It answers exactly to _old chapel entrance_; and the people have a report that there is a vault under it. One would be tempted to think it was a prison, and the pond was the place of executions, being form’d theatrically. Otherwise it might be a place of sports and spectacles. ’Tis 150 cubits broad, 180 long, form’d like an _Amazonian_ shield.
In a valley between here and _Rockley_, are nine round barrows of different bulk. And upon all the highest ground thereabouts are an infinite quantity of immense stones, or sarsens, or gray weathers, some of as large dimensions as any at _Abury_, and lying as thick as leaves in _autumn_. Some upon the very surface of the ground, some half sunk in; and many deep holes whence stones have been taken, are visible.
If we descend the _Hakpen-hill_, westward from hence towards _Winterburn-basset_, upon the declivity of the _Hakpen_, is another Druid’s house, called too _Old Chapel_. ’Tis a square, double ditch’d, but small ditches, in the middle a broad oblong square bank. Before it a sort of court, nearly as big as the other. Near it, they say, they have found much old iron and pewter. It seems to have been set round with stones.
There is another of these places in a delightful circular hollow, under the _Hakpen-hill_, on the west side, hanging over _Kennet_ avenue, just 180 cubits square. It lies on a northern declivity, for coolness as one may judge. The entrance is in the middle of the lowest side. But toward the upper side is another lesser oblong square, what we should call a _prætorium_ in a _Roman_ camp. And to this there was a distinct entrance on the south. ’Tis plac’d exactly north and south.
In _Bekamton_ town, near the termination of _Bekamton_ avenue, or the snake’s tail, is such another place, call’d _Old Chapel_ or _Chapel field_. ’Tis full of great stones, many buried under-ground. _Richard Fowler_, that great depopulator, told me, he demolished one stone standing near the hedge of the pasture. Near it a great stone lies upon the mouth of an old well, as they say, but never remember that it was open, only speak by tradition. This field belongs still to the church.
There is another very pretty place of this sort (for ought I know) between the _Wansdike_ and _Via Badonica_, running up _Runway-hill_. ’Tis a charming pleasant concavity. An oblong square, with another lesser, as a _prætorium_ within. In the _vallum_ are many gaps at equal intervals. You will see a large part of it in plate XI. called the model of a camp. ’Tis abusing our time to be tedious, either in descriptions or enquiries, about these matters, of which ’tis scarce possible to arrive at any certainty at this time of day. The pleasure arising from them, is in being upon the spot, and treading the agreeable downy turf, crowded with these antiquities; where health to the body and amusement to the mind are mingled so effectually together.
_A View near the spot of the Termination of_ Bekampton avenue _Iuly
19. 1723._
_Stukeley delin._
_The Snakes tail._]
In _Monkton-fields_, directly north-east from _Abury_, is a monument of four stones, which probably is a _kist-vaen_. I have exhibited a print of it in table XXXVII. These seem to be what Mr. _Edward Llwyd_ calls _Kromlechon_, or _bowing-stones_. I believe it was a sepulchral monument, set on a barrow, tho’ chiefly now plow’d up; and that the great covering-stone is luxated.
Table XXXII, XXXIII, XXXIV, are views of another eminent work of this sort, in _Clatford-bottom_ between _Abury_ and _Marlborough_, which require no further description.
Table XXXV, two old _british_ urns found at _Sunbury_ by the _Thames_, shewn at the antiquarian society some years ago. The inscription on the monument of _Chyndonax_, an archdruid among the _Gauls_, of which a large account publish’d in _french_. Father _Montfaucon_ questions the genuineness thereof, but I think his objections are trifling.
In table XXXVI, I have etch’d the bit of the king’s bridle found in _Silbury-hill_, the founder of _Abury_, in my possession. Underneath is the _british_ urn which I dug up in a barrow on _Windmill-hill_ north of _Abury_. This plate is consecrated to the memories of Sir _Robert Halford_, knight, and _Charles Tucker_, Esq; who were very solicitous in preserving these noble antiquities.
I have given the reader as plain and as concise a description of these works about _Abury_, as I possibly could. We cannot but make this general reflexion upon the whole: 1. That this temple, with the things belonging to it, when in perfection, must have been the work of a very great and learned people. The kind, manner, and idea of it, shews its extreme antiquity. When we view the ruins of _Rome_, of _Greece_, _Egypt_, _Syria_, _Persia_, or the like, we readily enough enter into a notion of the wisdom and flourishing estate of the people that performed them. The like we must do of these _british_ Druids. These very works justify the high reports made concerning them in classic authors. And if we pretend to oppose them by other reports out of like authors, concerning the rudeness and barbarity of the old _Britons_; the answer is obvious. They speak of different times, or perhaps of different people, new successions from the continent, that drove out the former possessors who performed these works, more northward and westward. The works themselves are an evidence of the genius of the founders. Learning commonly arrives at its height within no long space of time. These works here have a notorious grandeur of taste, a justness of plan, an apparent symmetry and a sufficient niceness in the execution: In compass very extensive, in effect magnificent and agreeable. The boldness of the imagination we cannot sufficiently admire. When this whole _area_, which is about four miles square, was entirely sacred ground, under the care and custody of the Druids, one of their great seminaries or academies, every where a fine turf, cover’d over with an infinite variety of barrows, it was a most agreeable scene, and merely a picture.
When one traverses about this ground, an intelligent person will discern abundance of remarkable beauties in the manner and disposition of the temple. The wise Druids knew the internal meaning and purport of this great symbol of the fecundity of the deity, first exerted in producing the second person represented thereby, who with them was the creator of all things. From the supreme proceeded the divine essences equal to himself; but the son of the supreme formed the material words, whence call’d the _mind_, the _creator_, and the _wisdom of the father_, both by the Druids and us christians. And never since the creation, was so magnificent an idea form’d in mortal minds, as this hieroglyphic here before us made in stone-work. This snake of ours may be near three of our common miles in length, justly laid down, its proportions adapted to nature, its sinuosity well represented in huge curves running contrary ways, conduced over several elevations and depressures of ground. Two hills, one on each side the stream running from _Abury_ to _Silbury_, hide the view of the avenues from each other. So that probably the vulgar then knew not the true figure of the whole, no more than now. But those that approached this place with a purpose of religion, and that understood the mystical meaning thereof, must be extremely affected with it; the greatest picture, no doubt, on the globe of the earth, naturally exciting in their minds that disposition proper for those approaches!
2. I observe that _Abury_, even now, lays its claim to all the old appendages: the bounds of the parish taking in chiefly all that the snake reaches, and the environs, as _Southstreet_, _West-Kennet_, and _Bekamton_, and part of _Winterburn-basset_, and _Stan-more_ south of _Winterburn-basset_, (they say it has been a town;) and _Overton-hill_, _South-downs_, _West-downs_, _Cheril-hill_, almost to _Oldbury-castle_.
3. I remark, tho’ the people know nothing of the figure of a snake made by the two avenues, yet a notion has been handed down from all times, that gives an obscure hint of the thing, and of the prophylactic virtue in this figure of the snake. For they say, that in all this trail of ground, which we may call the _sacred field_, there never was a snake seen; and if a snake should be brought hither, it would not live. Nevertheless snakes abound in all the country round, even to _Clatford_, between _Marlborough_ and here, but never come higher up. This notion, I know not whether ’tis justly founded, but ’tis deeply rooted in the mind of the inhabitants. _Pliny_ has a great deal about the Druids’ fondness of snakes, but a little unintelligible, as we find most of what authors have said concerning them. And we must be content at this time, to mark out some obscure traces of things that seem to our purpose, relating to this affair of theirs, which shall be the subject of the next chapters.
4. When we contemplate the manner and disposition of our temple, in regard to its parts in the circle at _Abury_, and in regard to its position upon the cardinal points, some questions arise in our mind, which we desire a resolution of: Concerning which I believe the hints following will give us some satisfaction. Ever since the world began, in building temples or places of religious assemblies, they have been studious in setting them according to the quarters of the heavens. For they consider’d the world as the general temple or house of God, and that all particular temples should have a proper regard to it. The east naturally claims a prerogative, where the sun and all the planets and stars arise: this therefore they accounted as the face and front of the world, or universal temple. The north then was consider’d as the right-hand and great power of the world, the south as the left-hand or lesser power. For when the sun approaches the northern region, passing over the vernal equinoctial, he brings plenty, and the fulness of his fructiferous influence; when he returns to the south, the face of nature languishes in its winter attire. Therefore they thought the polar region not only highest, but of most eminence and effect.
_Stukeley delin._ _Toms sculp._
_A prospect of_ Silbury hill _from the spring head of the Kennet
River. 13. May. 1724._]
Whence _Orpheus_: “Thou who holdest the scepter of the pole, venerable on many accounts, the throne of the world in the north.”
_Psellus_ says, “the _Pandochean_ power of the world reigns in the north.”
Hence _Plutarch_ writes, “That _Xenophon_ says of the _Egyptians_, they thought that part where the sun rises was the face of the world; the north was its right-hand, where the _Nile_ rises its left.” And this helps us to explain several _Egyptian_ antiquities.
But to apply this to our purpose. We cannot but observe, that the whole of _Abury_ temple, or _Mausoleum_, regarded as a picture, has its upper part to the north, and its face (if we may so speak) toward the east. Thitherward the serpent goes. That way the cove of the northern temple opens; that way the cove of _Bekamton_ avenue; that way the face of _Stonehenge_ temple looks. So that the Druids appear to have the same notions with the other wise men of the oriental ancients.
This therefore shews the reason why they set their temples fronting the east, in all antiquity, and why the coves of our works look that way. As to the two temples at _Abury_, the northern and southern, included in the great circle, it should seem that the northern one had the preeminence, and was the more sacred of the two. As the cove was the _adytum_ of that temple, so the whole northern temple may be esteem’d as the _adytum_ of the whole work, the southern being as the body of it. _Solomon_’s temple, we know, consisted of three parts: the _adytum_, or _holy of holies_; the _holy place_, or _sanctuary_; the _porch_. By this means there is a conformity between it and _Abury_; and to _Stonehenge_ likewise, which has an elliptic _adytum_, a circular or outer part, and the _area_. Doubtless the different order of priests, and of religious offices, took up these different parts. And, if we may give our opinion, ’tis natural to think, that because the ring-stone is by the southern temple, there the sacrifices were offer’d and administer’d by the lesser orders of priests, around the _ambre_ or central pyramidal. The highest part of religion was to be perform’d by the archdruid and the upper order of priests before the magnificent cove of the northern temple, together with hymns, incense, musick, and the like.
5. In my account of _Stonehenge_ I suggested a surmise, that the Druids, in laying down these works of theirs, used a compass or magnetic instrument; whence I founded a conjecture concerning the time of building that temple, by observing the variation with a theodolite. As the variation in all the works about _Stonehenge_ is between six and seven degrees to the east of the north, I found it at _Abury_ to be about ten degrees the same way, and as precisely as possible. This will necessarily excite one’s attention, as there is less reason to suppose ’tis accidental. The whole work was manifestly design’d to be set on the cardinal points of the heavens, but they all vary one way, exactly the same quantity; and ’tis impossible to account for it in any wise, but that they us’d a magnetic instrument. This is the reason that the neck of the snake on _Overton-hill_ crosses the _Roman_ road running east and west, which would otherwise have been the ground-line of this work.
Thus _Kennet_ avenue enters the town of _Abury_ ten degrees north of the north-west point, which north-west point was the Druids’ purpose. The neck of the snake going down from _Overton-hill_ regards _Silbury_ precisely, and their intent was that it should be full west, but ’tis ten degrees north of the west. The meridian line of the whole work passes from _Silbury-hill_ to the center of the temple at _Abury_, this varies ten degrees to the east from the north-point. The stupendous cove in the northern temple opens ten degrees east of north-east. It was their purpose that it should regard the north-east. The diameter of the great circle of the great stones at _Abury_, on which the north and south temples are built, was design’d to have been set on the line from north-west to south-east, but it verges ten degrees northward; and so of all other particulars. And by this very means we may, at any time, point out the line of the termination of _Bekamton_ avenue, tho’ entirely destroy’d. For from _Silbury-hill_, it was design’d by the Druids to have been set full west, as _Overton-hill_ full east. Therefore a line mark’d from _Silbury-hill_, ten degrees north of the west point, and at the proper length of the avenue, being 4000 cubits, an eastern mile, determines the spot where _Bekamton_ avenue ended. That spot is south of the square inclosure going up to _Cheril-hill_, where _Silbury-hill_ bears ten degrees south of east, where _Abury_ steeple bears twenty-five degrees west of south-west. From _Silbury-hill_ you mark it by the line that goes to _Oldbury_ camp, on the left hand of _Cheril-hill_. In that line was the termination of _Bekamton_ avenue; it being the intention of the Druids to place the founder’s _tumulus_ or _mausoleum_ of _Silbury-hill_ in the middle, between the two ends of the avenue, the head and tail of the snake, upon the east and west line, and exactly south of the center of the great circle at _Abury_. This whole work therefore was properly the _mausoleum_, or made, as it were, one _tumulus_ over the founder. A prophylactic form’d by the great symbol of the deity, guarded the ashes of the deceased hero. And from this custom in mythologic times, they invented the notion of a snake being the genius of departed heroes; or of such being turn’d into snakes and the like, as is said of _Cadmus_, and many more.
Thus _Virgil_ describing _Æneas_ celebrating the anniversary of his father’s death, at his _tumulus_ in _Sicily_, recites the ancient rites practis’d at these places and on these occasions, and introduces a snake creeping out of the _adytum_ of the _tumulus_, passing by the altars and holy utensils, and retiring again, in _Æneid_ V.
————_Adytis cùm lubricus anguis ab imis
Septem ingens gyros, septena volumina traxit,
Amplexus placidè tumulum_———————— &c.
_Hoc magis inceptos genitori instaurat honores,
Incertus geniumne loci, famulumne parentis
Esse putet_————
Much might I recite to our purpose out of the ancient commentators on this passage, to which I refer the inquisitive. From the word _adytis_ we may be apt to conclude the tomb of _Anchises_ had a cove built upon it, as that we describ’d at _Rowldrich_. But to return.
I apprehend the reader will scarce excuse me, if I make not some inference from that observation of the variation of the needle here from the cardinal points. Indeed in these works of antiquity, I would be as temperate as possible in multiplying conjectures; and to nothing more can I pretend in this case, and that too but in gross, for we want sufficient _data_. A future age may pronounce with more certainty, when we know the entire revolution of the circle of the magnetic variation.
Silbury Hill _July 11. 1723_.
_Stukeley d._
A. _The Roman road._ B. _the Snakes head or hakpen._]
Dr. _Halley_ supposes the whole period is perform’d in about the space of 700 years. I am sufficiently satisfy’d from considering the different effect of the weather between _Abury_ and _Stonehenge_, the great diversity in the manner of the works, and some other considerations, that _Abury_ must be above 700 years prior in time to _Stonehenge_. But if we take two entire revolutions, 1400 years, and set it 460 years before the christian _æra_, the supposed time of the building of _Stonehenge_, it brings us, in _Usher_’s chronology, which, I take to be the best, to the year of the death of _Sarah_, _Abraham_’s wife, which happen’d in the summer time of the 1859th year before Christ. This was a little before the time of _Inachus_.
By the best light I can obtain, I judge our _Tyrian Hercules_ made his expedition into the ocean, about the latter end of _Abraham_’s time: and most likely ’tis, that _Abury_ was the first great temple of _Britain_, and made by the first _Phœnician_ colony that came hither; and they made it in this very place on account of the stones of the gray-weathers, so commodious for their purpose.
_Usher_ makes this retirement of the _Hycsi_, or royal pastors out of _Egypt_, which was done by our _Hercules_, to be 34 years after that date. But my numbers make it somewhat later.
CHAP. XI.
_This second sort of temples made by the circle and snake, was
call’d in very old times_, Dracontium, _and not understood.
The first temples made in form of the symbol of the deity. Why
mankind should make the serpent the symbol of the deity? Of
symbols in general. Their antiquity and use. It was the first
kind of writing, even_ antediluvian. _The serpent of high account
from_ China _to_ Britain. _Of the nature of the serpent. The
extraordinary beauty of the creature. Its wonderful motion
without legs, thought to be like that of the gods. The wisdom of
the serpent consider’d. Symbolically understood. Its bifid tongue
the symbol of eloquence. Its enchanting power real. By the eyes,
by the ears. Whence emblematic of the preachers of the gospel,
and of our Saviour himself. On these, and many other accounts,
esteem’d a divine animal, and chosen to symbolize the first
begotten son of God, or first product of the divine fecundity._
2. _Of the nature of the formation of symbols. The serpent a
prophylactic symbol. Of the brazen serpent, typical of our
Saviour. Of the emerods of the_ Philistines, _whence the_ Phalli
_of the heathen. A serpent the symbol of Messiah in many views._
In my description of _Abury_, and its parts, I endeavour’d to make every thing as plain as I could from fact and view; but now we come to our speculative part, I can only propose to entertain, perhaps, the reader’s curiosity, with what light I could gather from ancient learning concerning it.
We have seen by our description, that the plan on which _Abury_ is built, is that sacred hierogram of the _Egyptians_, and other ancient nations, the circle and snake. The whole figure is the circle, snake, and wings. By this they meant to picture out, as well as they could, the nature of the divinity. The circle meant the supreme fountain of all being, the father; the serpent, that divine emanation from him which was called the son; the wings imported that other divine emanation from them which was called the spirit, the _anima mundi_.
This is that figure which _Kircher_ names _ophio cyclo-pterygomorphos_, and discourses largely of. But that we may have a better understanding of it than hitherto has been, we shall open our mind concerning this abstruse matter by degrees.
_Dracontia_ was a name among the first learned nations, for the very ancient sort of temples, of which they could give no account, nor well explain their meaning upon it. _Strabo_ XIV. this was a name of this kind of patriarchal temple, of which _Abury_ is one, deduc’d to later times, whilst the thing itself, and manner of building, was disus’d and forgot.
_Stukeley f. 1723._
_The Geometry of Silbury hill._]
_Servius_ on the second _Æneid_, writes, “_anguis_ is a proper name of the water-snake, _serpens_ of the land, _draco_ of those belonging to temples.” By which, ultimately, our representations must be meant, tho’ probably by the author not understood, as having no acquaintance with our kind of works. But it unavoidably brings to our mind the temples of the ancients kept by dragons, which we so frequently meet with in classical history. And we may well presume they mean such temples as this of _Abury_, _Dracontia_.
“The serpent,” says _Maximus_ of _Tyre_, _Dissert._ 38. “was the great symbol of the deity to most nations, and as such was worshipped by the Indians.” The temples of old made in the form of a serpent, were called for that reason, _Dracontia_. The universality of this regard for serpents, shews the high antiquity of the symbol, and that it was antediluvian.
To give us light into the affair, first it will be convenient to discourse a little concerning the nature of the serpent, and why mankind should make it a symbol of divinity. For it looks a little strange, after our first mother was seduc’d from her innocence, by the devil under this form, that so high a regard should be paid to it.
The first learning in the world confided chiefly in symbols. The wisdom of the _Chaldeans_, _Phœnicians_, _Egyptians_, _Jews_, of _Zoroaster_, _Sanchoniathon_, _Pherecydes Syrus_, _Pythagoras_, _Socrates_, _Plato_, of all the ancients, that is come to our hand, is symbolic. “It was the mode,” says _Serranus_, on _Plato_’s _Symposium_, “of the ancient philosophers, to represent truth by certain symbols and hidden images. It leads us gradually, sweetly, yet most efficaciously, towards the contemplation of the first being, which is the end of all philosophy and theology.” We may add, it was the method of ancient divines too, from the beginning to our Saviour’s time. No one cultivated it more than he, in all his sermons and discourses, which were affecting, well wrought up, lively, apposite, entertaining in the highest degree. Some of them complete _dramas_. And in general, we must conclude, it gives a beautiful gloss and amiable face to truth.
That the Druids studied in this enigmatic and symbolic way, appears from what we are writing upon; and _Diogenes Laertius_, in his proem, affirms it of them. He ranks them with the _Magi_, _Chaldeans_, and _Gymnosophists_, gives some of their doctrines, and makes them rather ancienter than the _Egyptians_, meaning the learned among the _Egyptians_. He says, “the _Gymnosophists_ are descended of the _Magi_, and some affirm the _Jews_ too.” He means the ancestors of the _Jews_, _Abraham_ in particular. I believe, Druids, _Chaldeans_, _Gymnosophists_, and _Egyptians_, all descended, or rather disciples of the _Magi_, who were the first and patriarchal priests after the flood. _Sanchoniathon_ calls _Shem_ (as I take it) by the name of _Magus_, as the prince of the order. He says the _Egyptians_ vail their doctrines under the figure of beetles, _snakes_, birds, and other animals. And it seems to be the origin of animal worship in _Egypt_. Thus _Gale_, in his _court of the gentiles_, P. I. p. 64. again P. II. p. 35. “the ancient mode of expressing things worthy of memory, by hieroglyphic forms, notes, and symbols, was very common amongst the ancients, in the oriental parts especially, both poets and philosophers; and exceeding proper for that infant state of the world, wherein knowledge was so imperfect and impolite. And we need no way doubt but that this symbolic kind of discourse, or language, had its original from the divine œconomy which God prescribed in his infant church, consisting of many terrene images and sensible forms, symbols and types, for the shadowing forth highest contemplations and heavenly mysteries. Which way of conveying and preserving knowledge is not only helpful to the memory, grateful to the fancy and judgment, but also very efficacious for the moving of the affections.”
A symbol is an arbitrary, sensible sign of an intellectual idea. And I believe the art of writing at first was no other, than that of making symbols, pictures, or marks of things they wanted to express. So that every letter was the picture of an idea. This was the first and antediluvian way of writing, before alphabet writing was invented. This latter was a postdiluvian invention, in my opinion. The reasons I shall give on another more immediate occasion. _Servius_, on the _Æneid_ V. _septem ingens gyros_, speaking of the snake encompassing _Anchises_’s tomb, writes, that this method was prior to alphabet-writing. I believe the _Chinese_ method of writing to be the antediluvian one; and the like, perhaps, may be affirmed of the _Egyptian_ hieroglyphics. The _Egyptians_ had the good sense, when alphabet writing was communicated to them, to embrace it, tho’ the _Chinese_ will not. Still the _Egyptians_ retain’d a particular veneration for their former method, and dedicated it to sacred uses altogether.
This symbol of the snake and circle, which is the picture of the temple of _Abury_, we see on innumerable _Egyptian_ monuments. Always it holds the uppermost, the first and chief place; which shews its high dignity.
Mr. Selden, upon the _Arundel marbles_, p. 132, says, “this figure in abbreviated writing, among the _Greeks_, signifies Δαιμων, the _deity_.” [symbol] And Kircher, in his third tome, affirms the like of the _Brachmans_ of the _East-Indies_.
I can by no means admit it to be an _Egyptian invention_. The _Egyptians_ took this, and hieroglyphic writing in general, from the common ancestors of mankind. This is sufficiently prov’d from the universality of the thing, reaching from _China_ in the east, to _Britain_ in the west, nay, and into _America_ too.
Nothing of so high account among the _Chinese_, as the representation of dragons and serpents, as we see in all their pictures and utensils; nay, the very stamps upon their ink. ’Tis the genial banner of their empire. It means every thing that is sacred among them. In baron _Vischer_’s elegant book of ancient architecture, Tab. XV. you have the picture of a _Chinese_ triumphal arch (of which there are many in the city of _Pekin_) twice upon it is pictur’d, in a tablet over the front, a circle and two snakes, as on _Egyptian_ works. They adorn their temples, houses, habits, and every thing with this figure, as a common _prophylaxis_. I apprehend it was from the beginning a sacred amuletic character. ’Tis carv’d several times on the cornishes of the temple (I take it so to be) of _Persepolis_, as we see in Sir _John Chardin_, _Le Brun_, _Kæmfer_. Dragons were the _Parthian_ ensigns, from whom the _Romans_ in later times took them, and our _saxon_ ancestors from the _Romans_. ’Tis a known verse in the satyrist,
_Pinge duos angues, sacer est locus._
The Druids had no less a veneration for it, as we find by _Abury_ and by their fondness of snake stone beads and the like, which _Pliny_ calls snakes’ eggs, and discourses on, largely, in relation to our Druids.
_A Group of Barrows on the side of the valley above Beckampton_
_A Group of Barrows upon Overton hill_]
Here we see the sacred regard paid to snakes from _China_ to _Britain_. Still as we before suggested, it appears somewhat strange, when we consider that the patriarchs, of whose age and times we are now chiefly treating, were not ignorant of the evil deriv’d to mankind thro’ this creature.
We may satisfy our selves about this difficulty, by considering, 1. the natural history of the serpent, and 2. the nature of forming of symbols.
First, the natural history of this animal. Can we divest our selves of original prejudice, we must allow the serpent kind, as to their outward _appearance_, among the most beautiful creatures in the world. The poets, those great masters of nature, are luxuriant in their descriptions of them, comparing them to the most glorious appearance in the universe, the rainbow. Thus _Virgil Æneid_ V.
_Cæruleæ cui terga notæ, maculosus & auro
Squamam incendebat fulgor; ceu nubibus arcus
Mille trahit varios, adverso sole colores._
Thus _Lucan_,
_Serpitis aurato nitidi fulgore dracones._
——_cristis præsignis & auro.
Igne micant oculi_—— Ovid. Met. 3.
Of _Cadmus_’s snake.
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Abury, A Temple of the British Druids, With Some Others, DescribedChapter IV: Part 4
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