Chapter III: Part 3

Several _Roman_ coins have from time to time been found here, and in the neighbouring fields. A mile off goes the _roman_ way, which I have described in my _Itinerary_, p. 132. call’d _Via Badonica_, being the way from _London_ to _Bath_. It comes from _Marlborough Cunetio_, crosses the _Hakpen-hill_ by _Overton-hill_, quite over the neck of the snake belonging to our temple, goes close by _Silbury-hill_, thro’ _Bekamton-fields_; then, a little southward of the tail of the snake, ascends _Runway-hill_, up the heath, where ’tis very plain, just as the _Romans_ left it. Plate IX. exhibits a view of it from the present road to _Bath_ and _Devizes_, and at the same time affords us a demonstration that our Druid antiquities, which we are here describing, are prior in time to these works of the _Romans_. This way is not compos’d, as they generally are, of materials fetch’d from a distance, made into a high bank, but only a small ridge of chalk dug up all along close by. We discern upon the heath the little pits or cavities, on both sides, whence it was taken to make the ridge of the road. For this road is not finished, though mentioned in _Antoninus’s itinerary_, journey XIV, only chalk’d out, as we may properly say. Moreover, the workmen for readiness, have par’d off above half of a sepulchral barrow on the right hand, of a very finely turn’d bell-like form, to make use of the earth; and there is a discontinuance of the line of the little cavities there for some time, till it was not worth while any longer to fetch materials from it. And on the left hand they have made two of their little pits or cavities within the ditch of a Druid’s barrow (as I call them) and quite dug away the prominent part of the barrow, consisting of a little tump over the urn, inclos’d with the circular ditch of a much larger dimension. This observation is of a like nature with that of Plate IV. of _Stonehenge_. It must be noted, that this _roman_ road here, being mark’d out only; I suppose it was done toward the declension of their empire here, when they found not time to finish it.

I could well enough discern from which point the _roman_ workmen carry’d this way, by observing the discontinuity of these little pits, on account of the materials they took from the larger barrow, _viz._ from _Cunetio Marlborough_, to _Verlucio Hedington_, and so to _Bath_.

This road, as it goes farther on, and passes to the other side of _Runway-hill_ (_Roman-way hill_) gives us two other remarkable appearances, both which are seen in Plate X. which I have repeated again in this book, to which it more properly belongs. It serves to rectify our notions concerning the high antiquity of the temple we are writing upon. 1. We discern the artifice of the _roman_ workmen, in conducing their road along the precipicious side of this hill, and preserving at the same time the straight line, as much as may be. 2. We see a part of the famous _Wansdike_, or boundary of the _belgic_ kingdom in _Britain_, drawn under their king _Divitiacus_, spoken of by _Cæsar_ in his _commentaries_. He built the neighbouring town, the _Devizes_, so call’d from his name, and most probably the city of his residence. I treated of this matter in _Stonehenge_. 3. We may remark the union of the _roman_ road and _Wansdike_, for some space, and a proof that _Wansdike_ was made before this _roman_ road, because the bank of the dike is thrown in, in order to form the road. _Cæsar_ says, this _Divitiacus_, king of the _Suessions_ in _Gaul_, lived an age before him.

Prospect of the Cove Abury _10 July 1723_.

_Stukeley del._]

At the bottom of this hill is _Hedington_, another _roman_ town, call’d _Verlucio_. _Calne_, less than five mile off _Abury_, was a _roman_ town too, where many _roman_ coins are found. Several of them I saw. Hence, the _romans_ being very frequent in this country, ’tis no wonder their coins are found about _Abury_. I think I may well be excus’d from entering into a formal argumentation to prove that we must not hence gather, the _Romans_ were founders of _Abury_. In my own opinion, who have duly consider’d these affairs, the temple of the Druids here is as much older than the _roman_ times, as since the _Romans_ to our own time.

Return we down _Runway-hill_, and contemplate that most agreeable prospect, of which I have given a faint representation in Plate XI. We see here the whole course of this _Via Badonica_ hence, in a straight line to _Marlborough_, by _Silbury-hill_, the great tomb of the founder of _Abury_. I saw several _roman_ coins found about this road on _Overton-hill_, near the _white-hart_ alehouse. On the left hand is the strong _roman_ camp of _Oldbury_. Every where we behold great numbers of the barrows of the old _Britons_, regarding the temple of _Abury_. On the right hand we may discern a vast length of the _Wansdike_, carried along the northern edge of the high range of hills parting north and south _Wiltshire_. Below is a pretty work like a _roman_ camp, cut in the fine turf. It should seem to be somewhat belonging to the Druids, of which afterwards.

Beside some _roman_ coins accidentally found in and about _Abury_, I was inform’d of a square bit of iron taken up under one of the great stones, upon pulling it down. I could not learn particularly what it was, tho’ no doubt it belonged to the _British_ founders. They found likewise a brass ax-head, under an ash-tree dug up near the smith’s shop by the church. I understood, by the description they gave of it, it was one of those Druid axes or instruments call’d _Celts_, wherewith they cut the misletoe, fastening it occasionally on the end of the staff, which they commonly carry’d in their hands, one of the _insignia_ of their office, as a pastoral staff of bishops.

When the lord _Stowell_, who own’d the manor of _Abury_, levell’d the _vallum_ on that side of the town next the church, where the barn now stands, the workmen came to the original surface of the ground, which was easily discernible by a black _stratum_ of mold upon the chalk. Here they found large quantities of bucks’ horns, bones, oyster-shells, and wood coals. The old man who was employ’d in the work says, there was the quantity of a cart-load of the horns, that they were very rotten, that there were very many burnt bones among them.

They were remains of the sacrifices that had been perform’d here; probably before the temple was quite finish’d, and the ditch made. These are all the antiquities I could learn to have been found in and about the town of _Abury_.

CHAP. VII.

_A description of the great avenue from_ West-Kennet, _a mile off,
which is the forepart of the snake proceeding from the circle.
Observations on the_ vallum _and ditch. On the proportion between
the breadth of the avenue and the side interval of the stones.
The avenue broader in that part, which is the belly of the snake,
than the neck. Its whole length ten stadia of the ancients;
4000 cubits, an eastern mile. The_ Hakpen _an oriental word,
signifying the_ snake’s head. _The temple on_ Overton-hill. _Such
another temple described by_ Pausanias _in_ Bœotia, _called the_
snake’s head.

The Druids, by throwing outwards the earth dug out of the huge circular ditch environing the town, demonstrated to all comers at first sight, that this was a place of religion, not a camp or castle of defence. They prevented its ever being us’d as such, which must have ruin’d their sacred design. Moreover it adds to the solemnity of the place; it gives an opportunity for a greater number of people to assist at the offices of religion.

This further great convenience attends the disposition of ditch and _vallum_, that the water falls off the _area_ every way, and keeps it dry, which provides for the stability of their work, and convenience of the priests in their ministry. I observ’d the earth that composes the _vallum_ was laid a small distance from the verge of the ditch, so as to leave a parapet or narrow walk between. This was as the _podium_ of an amphitheater, for the lower tire of spectators. The ditch and rampart are each 60 feet, or 35 cubits broad. And now the whole is an agreeable terrace-walk round the town, with a pleasant view upon sometimes corn-fields, sometimes heath; the hill-tops every where cover’d with barrows; and that amazing artificial heap of earth call’d _Silbury-hill_ in sight. The great _belgic_ rampart, the _Wansdike_, licks all the southern horizon, as far as you can see it, crowning the upper edge of that range of hills parting _north_ and _south Wiltshire_. Part of this pleasant prospect I have given in plate XXIII, as seen from _Abury_ church-steeple.

Let us then walk out of the confines of the temple properly, by the southern entrance of the town. Passing the _vallum_, the road straight forwards leads to _Kennet_ and _Overton_, that on the right hand to the _Bath_. But our present way lies straight forwards, which is south-eastward, and may properly enough be call’d _Via sacra_, as being an avenue up to the temple; besides, it forms one half of the body of the snake, issuing out of the circle. There were but two gates or entrances into the temple originally; this was one. And this way I call _Kennet-avenue_.

_View of the Cell of the Celtic Temple at Abury. Augˢᵗ: 16. 1721._

_The Cove of the Northern temple._

_Stukeley Del._]

By repeated mensurations, by careful attention and observations, by frequently walking along the whole track thereof, from one end to the other, I found out its purpose, its extent, the number of stones it is compos’d of, and the measures of their intervals. It extends itself from this southern entrance of _Abury_ town to _Overton-hill_, overhanging the village of _West-Kennet_. _There_ was another double circle of stones, which made the head of the snake. All the way between there, and this southern entrance, which is above a mile, was set with stones on each hand, opposite to one another, and at regular distances. This was the avenue, and form’d the forepart of the snake.

The Druids, in laying down this design, that it might produce a magnificent effect suitable to so great and operose a work, studied the thing well. As this was to be a huge picture or representation of an animal, they purposed to follow nature’s drawing, as far as possible. A snake’s body has some variation in its thickness, as slenderer toward the neck, than at its middle. This the Druids imitated in making the avenue broader toward this southern entrance of _Abury_; and drawing it narrower as it approached _Overton-hill_. Again, when a snake is represented in its sinuous motion, the intervals of the stones sideways must have a variation, as set in the inner or the outer curve; so as to make them stand regularly opposite to one another: yet this necessarily makes some little difference in the intervals, and this too is properly regarded in the work.

The whole length of this avenue consists of a hundred stones on each side, reaching from the _vallum_ of _Abury_ town, to the circular work on _Overton-hill_. Measuring the breadth of it in several places where I had an opportunity of two opposite stones being left, I found a difference; and the like by measuring the interval of stones sideways; yet there was the same proportion preserved between breadth and interval; which I found to be as two to three. So that here by _Abury_-town, in a part that represented the belly of the snake, the breadth of the avenue was 34 cubits, 56 feet and a half, and the intervals of the stones sideways 50 cubits, the proportion of two to three; twice 17 being 34, thrice 17 50. These 34 cubits take in the intire space of two intervals of the stones of the outer great circle of the temple of _Abury_ within the ditch, together with the intermediate stone, which is the entry of the avenue to the temple. A most ancient manner, a double door with a pillar in the middle. Such was that of the _Mosaick_ tabernacle: and such very often of our cathedrals. When we mount up _Overton-hill_, the avenue grows much narrower. And this observation help’d me in the discovery of the purport and design of the whole figure of the snake; and in the nature of the scheme thereof. Of which wonderful work we may well say with the poet; elsewhere,

_Nec rapit immensos orbes per humum, neque tanto
[Saxeus] in spiram tractu se colligit anguis._ Virg. Geor. 2.

When I abode here for some time on purpose, for several summers together; I was very careful in tracing it out, knew the distinct number of each stone remaining, and where every one stood that was wanting; which often surpriz’d the country people, who remembred them left on the ground or standing, and told me who carried them away. Many of the farmers made deep holes and buried them in the ground: they knew where they lay. Lord _Winchelsea_ with me counted the number of the stones left, 72, _anno_ 1722. I laid it all down in the nature of a survey, on large imperial sheets of paper, and wrote a detail of every stone present, or absent. But it would be very irksome to load the press with it. I shall recite no more of it, than what I think most useful and necessary.

Standing at the southern entrance of _Abury_, one stone the first, lies on the eastern side or left hand, close by the ditch: its opposite stood where at present a sycamore tree is planted. The next stone on the right hand is standing, by the turning of the _Bath_-road. Twenty four stones on both sides, next following, are carried off. At about 20 intervals going along the road to _Kennet_, which is the same as the avenue, we descend a gentle valley, and then lose sight of _Abury_. There you discern the curving of the avenue, many stones being left together on both sides. Here two stones are standing opposite to each other. I measur’d them near 60 feet asunder, which is 34 cubits. Then we ascend again a little hillock, where a good number of stones remain on both sides.

In a close on the left hand of the avenue, or east of it, not far from _Abury_ town, is a pentagonal stone laid flat on the ground, in the middle of which is a bason cut, always full of water, and never overflowing. The country people have a great regard to it: it proceeds from a spring underneath, and for ought I know, it may have been here from the foundation of our temple. Coming out of _Abury_, you observe the line of the avenue regards _Overton-hill_ before you, but soon you find it leaves it, and curves to the right hand a little. At the number of 65 stones on each side, you come to a hedge belonging to the inclosures of _West-Kennet_. In the year 1720 I saw several stones just taken up there, and broke for building; fragments still remaining and their places fresh turf’d over, for the sake of pasturage. Where the corn-fields or pasturage have infring’d upon the sacred ground, our work generally goes to wreck. Where the heath remains, ’tis still perfect enough; of which we say with the great poet,

_Nec nulla interea est inaratæ gratia terræ._

so that the covetous farmer and grazier have conspired to abolish this most magnificent monument; and that just about the time I was there. _Charles Tucker_ Esq; late of _East-Kennet_ a gentleman of sense, us’d to be very angry at the ruin of these stones, and prevented it as much as he could.

As to the stones that compos’d this avenue, they were of all shapes, sizes, and height that happen’d, altogether rude. Some we measur’d 6 feet thick, 16 in circumference. If of a flattish make, the broadest dimension was set in the line of the avenue, and the most sightly side of the stone inward. The founders were sensible, all the effect desired in the case, was their bulk and regular station. All the hill tops, especially the _Hakpen_, are adorn’d with barrows as we go along. When the avenue comes to the inclosures aforementioned of _West-Kennet_, it passes through three of them, crosses a little field lane, and the common road from _Marlborough_ to _Bath_, just after the road makes a right angle descending from _Overton-hill_. We must note that we have been a good while ascending again. In this angle the _Roman_-road from _Marlborough_ coming down the hill, enters the common road. This is the _via Badonica_ aforementioned.

_John Fowler_, who kept the alehouse hard by, demolish’d many of these stones by burning. The alehouse (the _white hart_) and the walls about it, were built out of one stone.

_Part of the South Temple from the Central Obelisk 10 July 1723_]

As before, the avenue coming out of _Abury_ town bended itself to the right, now ’tis easily enough discernible, that it makes a mighty curve to the left, the better to imitate the creature it’s intended for.

_Fit lapis, & servat serpentis imagine saxum._ Ovid. Met. XII.

Passing the _Roman_ road, it traverses an angle of a pasture, and falls into the upper part of the same road again, and marches through two more pastures, all along the quickset hedge-side: so that the quick is planted in the very middle of it. Many of the stones are seen lying in their proper places, both in the pastures and in the road. These stones are all thrown down or reclining, and very large. We measur’d one by the style 12 feet long, 6 and a half broad, 3 and a half thick.

At the bottom of these pastures on the right, runs the virgin stream of _Kennet_, just parted from its fountain by _Silbury-hill_. One stone is still standing by a little green lane going down to the river. Now our avenue marches directly up the hill, across some plough’d fields, still by the hedge of the _Marlborough_ road, where yet stands another stone belonging to it. Then we are brought to the very summit of the celebrated _Overton-hill_, properly the _Hakpen_ or head of the snake, which is 7000 feet from the _vallum_ of _Abury_ town. 400 cubits, according to _Herodotus_ II, was the _stadium_ of the ancients, our furlong; a space that _Hercules_ is said to run over at one breath. Had the side-interval of the stones of this avenue been the same throughout, 50 cubits, that repeated 100 times the number of the intervals, would produce 5000 cubits. But because, as I said, they lessen’d this interval proportionably, as they came to the neck of the snake, it amounts to 4000 cubits, which is ten _stadia_, an eastern mile in Dr. _Arbuthnot_’s tables, amounting to 7000 feet, as Mr. _Roger Gale_ and I measur’d its whole length.

We may observe the proportion between the diameter of the great circle of _Abury_ town, which was 800 cubits, two _stadia_, and the length of the avenue, which is five times the other. Observe farther, they carry’d the avenue up the side of the hill, so sloping as to make the ascent gradual and easy.

This _Overton-hill_, from time immemorial, the country-people have a high notion of. It was (alas, it was!) a very few years ago, crown’d with a most beautiful temple of the Druids. They still call it the sanctuary. I doubt not but it was an _asylum_ in Druid times; and the veneration for it has been handed down thro’ all succession of times and people, as the name, and as several other particulars, that will occasionally be mention’d. It had suffer’d a good deal when I took that prospect of it, with great fidelity, _anno_ 1723, which I give the reader in plate XXI. Then, about sixteen years ago, farmer _Green_ aforemention’d took most of the stones away to his buildings at _Bekamton_; and in the year 1724 farmer _Griffin_ plough’d half of it up. But the vacancy of every stone was most obvious, the hollows still left fresh; and that part of the two circles which I have drawn in the plate, was exactly as I have represented it. In the winter of that year the rest were all carry’d off, and the ground plough’d over.

The loss of this work I did not lament alone; but all the neighbours (except the person that gain’d the little dirty profit) were heartily griev’d for it. It had a beauty that touch’d them far beyond those much greater circles in _Abury_ town. The stones here were not large, set pretty close together, the proportions of them with the intervals, and the proportions between the two circles, all being taken at one view, under the eye, charm’d them. The great stones of the great circles at _Abury_ were not by them discern’d to stand in circles, nor would they easily be persuaded of it. But these of the sanctuary they still talk of with great pleasure and regret.

This _Overton-hill_, whereon was the elegant temple we are speaking of, is a very pleasant place. ’Tis the southern end of that ridge call’d the _Hakpen_, broken off by the river _Kennet_. All the water that falls in that plain wherein the whole work of _Abury_ stands, descends this way. It is a round knoll with a gentle declivity to the east, west, and south. The _Kennet_, as it were, licks its feet on all those sides. The whole hill has its name from this end.

To our name of _Hakpen_ alludes אחים _ochim_ call’d _doleful creatures_ in our translation, _Isaiah_ xiii. 21. speaking of the desolation of _Babylon_, “Wild beasts of the desert shall lie there, and their houses shall be full of _ochim_, and owls shall dwell there, and satyrs shall dance there.” St. _Jerom_ translates it serpents. The _Arabians_ call a serpent, _Haie_; and wood-serpents, _Hageshin_; and thence our _Hakpen_; _Pen_ is _head_ in _british_.

עכן _acan_ in the _chaldee_ signifies a _serpent_, and _hak_ is no other than _snake_; the spirit in the pronunciation being naturally degenerated into a sibilation, as is often the case, and in this sibilating animal more easily. So _super_ from υπερ, _sylva_ from υλη, _sudor_, υδωρ. So our word _snap_ comes from the _gallic_ _happer_, a _snacot_ fish from the _latin_ _acus_, _aculeatus piscis_. And in _Yorkshire_ they call snakes _hags_, and _hag-worms_. Vide _Fuller’s Misc._ IV. 15.

The temple that stood here was intended for the head of the snake in the huge picture; and at a distance, when seen in perspective, it very aptly does it. It consisted of two concentric ovals, not much different from circles, their longest diameter being east and west. By the best intelligence I could obtain from the ruins of it, the outer circle was 80 and 90 cubits in diameter, the medium being 85, 146 feet. It consisted of 40 stones, whereof 18 remained, left by farmer _Green_; but 3 standing. The inner circle was 26 and 30 cubits diameter, equal to the interval between circle and circle.

The stones were 18 in number, somewhat bigger than of the outer circle, but all carried off by _Green_ aforesaid. Every body here remembers both circles entire, and standing, except two or three fallen.

Mr. _Aubury_, in his manuscript notes printed with _Camden_’s _Britannia_, mentions it, “a double circle of stones, four or five feet high, tho’ many are now fallen down. The diameter of the outer circle 40 yards, and of the inner 15. He speaks of the avenue coming up to it, as likewise of our before-describ’d avenue, from _Abury_ to _West-Kennet_, set with large stones. One side, he says, is very nearly entire, the other side wants a great many.” He did not see that ’tis but one avenue from _Abury_ to _Overton-hill_, having no apprehension of the double curve it makes. And he erred in saying there was a circular ditch on _Overton-hill_.

The view here is extensive and beautiful. Down the river eastward we see _Marlborough_, and the whole course of the _Roman_ road hence going along _Clatford-bottom_. We see a good way in the road to _Ambresbury_, and the gap of the _Wansdike_, where we pass thro’. Thence the _Wansdike_ skims the edge of all the hill tops to _Runway-hill_. There we enter upon the view presented in plate XXI. The _Roman_ road runs upon the edge of the hill, on the right hand of that plate, between the barrows there. It descends the hill, and runs to the left hand of _Silbury_, and close by it; and then up _Runway-hill_. Next we see _Oldbury_ camp, over _West-Kennet_ village. Then we may view the whole length of the avenue hence to _Abury_, and observe the two great curves it makes, to imitate the figure of a snake, as drawn in the ancient hieroglyphics. Coming from _Abury_ town it curves to the right-hand or eastward, then winds as much to the west, till it ascends this _Overton-hill_, full east.

_A View of the_ South Temple _July 15 1723._]

I observed the breadth of the avenue here is narrower than elsewhere, as being the neck of the snake. ’Tis 45 feet or 26 cubits, equal to the diameter of the inner circle here. And as it is narrower than elsewhere, they made the side-distance between stone and stone proportional, being two thirds of that in breadth. Mr. _Smith_, living here, informed me, that when he was a school-boy, the _Kennet_ avenue was entire, from end to end. _Silbury-hill_ answers the avenue directly, as it enters this temple, being full west hence. Here is a great number of barrows in sight from this place, two close by; and a little north-eastward that chain of barrows design’d in plate XXIX. the lower part, looking toward _Marlborough_. Human bones found in digging a little ditch by the temple, across some small barrows there, and where there were no barrows. Mr. _Aubury_ says, sharp and form’d flints were found among them; arguments of great antiquity. They were of the lower class of _Britons_, that were not at the charge of a _tumulus_.

Thus we have conducted one half, the forepart of the snake, in this mighty work, up to _Overton-hill_, where it reposed its bulky head, and not long ago made a most beautiful appearance. I happen’d to frequent this place in the very point of time, when there was a possibility just left, of preserving the memory of it. In order to do it, I have laid down the groundplot thereof in plate XX. just as I found it for three years together, before it was demolish’d. I found that a line drawn between _Overton-mill_ and the entrance of _Kennet_ avenue in _Abury_ town, is the ground-line of this avenue, from which it makes two vast curves contrary ways, to imitate the winding of a snake, and the hieroglyphic figures we see on _Egyptian_ and other monuments. From _Overton-mill_ is a most glorious prospect, overlooking the whole extent of _Abury_ temple, and the sacred field it stands in, and beyond that, into _Gloucestershire_ and _Somersetshire_.

_Explicat hinc tellus campos effusa patentes,
Vix oculo prendente modum_—— Lucan IV.

As we descend _Overton-hill_ by the neck of the snake, we discern the main part of the track of this avenue between here and _Abury_ town, and may observe its huge curves both ways. And when we are near entring _Abury_ town again, upon mounting the hill by the hedge-corner, at about eighteen intervals of stones from the _vallum_, you see a most advantageous prospect or approach to the temple, partly represented in plate XVIII. _Windmill-hill_, with its easy acclivity, fronting you directly, the northern end of _Hakpen_ on the right and _Cherill-hill_ on the left closing the horizon like scenes at a theater.

I observed many of these studied opportunities in this work, of introducing the ground and prospects, to render it more picture-like.

_Pausanias in Bœotic._ writes, that in the way from _Thebes_ to _Glisas_, is a space fenc’d round with select stones, which the _Thebans_ call the _snake’s head_. And they tell a silly story about it, of a snake putting his head out of a hole there, which _Tiresius_ struck with his sword. Just by it, he says, is a hill call’d the _supreme_, and a temple to _Jupiter the supreme_, and the brook _Thermodon_ runs under it.

Can we doubt but this was an ancient temple, like what we are describing? It was built by _Cadmus_, or some of his people, of whom we shall talk more in chapter XIV.

I conclude this account with a verse of the poet’s, which I believe was upon a work of the very same nature, as we shall explain by and by.

_Quod caput antè fuit, summo est in monte cacumen,
Ossa lapis fiunt_—— Ovid. Met. IV.

CHAP. VIII.

_A description of the other great avenue from_ Bekamton, _a mile
off, which is the hinderpart of the snake, proceeding from the
circle. The cove on the midway of it call’d_ Longstones, _or the_
Devil’s coits. _The avenue terminated in a valley. Some animal
bones found in a stone, whence a conjecture concerning their age.
Of the number of the stones._ Solomon’_s temple compared with
ours. The mechanicks of the Druids called magick. Of the effect
of the weather upon the stones._

After I had carefully laid down the plan of _Kennet_ avenue, and not understanding the full purport of it; in the year 1722, I found out this other, extending itself above a mile from the town of _Abury_, by another direction. It goes toward the village of _Bekamton_, therefore I call it _Bekamton_ avenue. ’Tis really the hinderpart of the hieroglyphic snake, which the Druids meant here to picture out, in this most portentous size.

The former avenue goes out of _Abury_ town at the south-east point; this full west, at the interval of 25 stones, or a quadrant of the great circle from _Kennet_ avenue, and proceeds by the south side of the churchyard. Two stones lie by the parsonage-gate on the right hand. Those opposite to them on the left hand, in a pasture, were taken away 1702, as mark’d in the ground-plot of _Abury_. _Reuben Horsal_ remembers three standing in the pasture. One now lies in the floor of the house in the churchyard. A little farther, one lies at the corner of the next house, on the right hand, by the lane turning off to the right, to the bridge. Another was broke in pieces to build that house with, _anno_ 1714. Two more lie on the left hand, opposite. It then passes the beck, south of the bridge. Most of the stones hereabouts have been made use of about the bridge, and the causeway leading to it. A little spring arises at _Horslip_ north-west, and so runs by here to _Silbury-hill_, where the real head of the _Kennet_ is. But sometimes by a sudden descent of rain coming from _Monkton_ and _Broad-Hinton_, this is very deep. The picture here humours the reality so far, as this may be call’d the vent of the snake.

Now the avenue passes along a lane to the left hand of the _Caln_ road, by a stone house call’d _Goldsmiths_-farm, and so thro’ farmer _Griffin_’s yard, thro’ one barn that stands across the avenue, then by another which stands on its direction. Two stones and their opposites still lie in the foundation; immediately after this, it enters the open plow’d fields; the _Caln_ road running all this while north of it. If we look back and observe the bearings of _Abury_ steeple, and other objects, a discerning eye finds, that it makes a great sweep or curve northwards. The avenue entring the open corn-fields, runs for some time by the hedge, on the right hand. When it has cross’d the way leading from _South-street_, we discern here and there the remains of it, in its road to _Longstone_ cove. Farmer _Griffin_ broke near 20 of the stones of this part of the avenue.

_Stukeley delin._ _E. Kirkall sculp._

_The Entrance of_ Kennet avenue _into_ Abury _14. May 1724._]

This _Longstone_ cove, vulgarly call’d long stones, is properly a cove, as the old _Britons_ call’d ’em, compos’d of three stones, like that most magnificent one we described, in the center of the northern temple at _Abury_; behind the inn. They are set upon the ark of a circle, regarding each other with an obtuse angle. This is set on the north side of the avenue; one of the stones of that side makes the back of the cove. This is the only particularity in which this avenue differs from the former. I take it to be chiefly a judicious affectation of variety, and serv’d as a _sacellum_ or _proseucha_ to the neighbourhood on ordinary days of devotion, _viz._ the sabbath-days. For if the Druids came hither in _Abraham_’s time, and were disciples of his, as it appears to me; we cannot doubt of their observance of the sabbath. It stands on the midway of the length of the avenue, being the fiftieth stone. This opens to the south-east, as that of the northern temple to the north-east. ’Tis placed upon an eminence, the highest ground which the avenue passes over: these are call’d _Longstone_-fields from it. You have a good prospect hence, seeing _Abury_ toward which the ground descends to the brook: _Overton-hill_, _Silbury_, _Bekamton_; and a fine country all around. Many stones by the way are just buried under the surface of the earth. Many lie in the balks and meres, and many fragments are remov’d, to make boundaries for the fields; but more whole ones have been burnt to build withal, within every body’s memory. One stone still remains standing, near _Longstone_ cove.

_Longstone_ cove, because standing in the open fields, between the _Caln_ road and that to the _Bath_, is more talk’d of by the people of this country, than the larger, and more numerous in _Abury_ town. Dr. _Musgrave_ mentions it in his _Belgium Britannicum_, page 44. and in his map thereof.

Mr. _Aubury_ in his manuscript observations publish’d with Mr. _Camden_’s _Britannia_, speaks of them by the name of the _Devil’s coits_. Three huge stones then standing. It was really a grand and noble work. The stone left standing is 16 feet high, as many broad, 3½ thick. The back stone is fallen flat on the ground, of like dimension.

——_annis solvit sublapsa vetustas:
Fertur in abruptum magnus mons_—— Virg. Æn. 12.

The other was carried off by that destroyer _Richard Fowler_, together with many more, but seven years ago (when I was there). The people that saw it broken in pieces by fire, assured me there were perfect flints in its composition and bones. And I verily believe I saw a piece of this same stone in a garden-wall of the little alehouse below in _Bekamton_-road, which had evidently a bone in it. Whence probably we may conclude, that these stones were form’d by nature since _Noah_’s deluge, and these bones are of an antediluvian animal, which casually fell into the petrifying matter. They told me the stone contain’d 20 good loads, that the bones were in the middle of the stone, and as hard as the stone. That stone now standing, was the right hand or eastern jamb of the cove.

A little way hence is a bit of heath-ground, but the plough will soon have devoured it. Here remains a great barrow, call’d _Longstone long barrow_; and from hence we see innumerable more barrows. The avenue continu’d its journey by the corn fields. Three stones lie still by the field-road coming from _South-street_ to the _Caln_-road. Mr. _Alexander_ told me he remember’d several stones standing by the parting of the roads under _Bekamton_, demolish’d by _Richard Fowler_. Then it descends by the road to _Cherill_, ’till it comes to the _Bath_-road, close by the _Roman_-road, and there in the low valley it terminates, near a fine group of barrows, under _Cherill-hill_, in the way to _Oldbury-camp_; this is west of _Bekamton_-village. This point facing that group of barrows and looking up the hill is a most solemn and awful place; a descent all the way from _Longstone_ cove, and directed to a descent, a great way further, down the _Bath_-road, where no less than five valleys meet. And in this very point only you can see the temple on _Overton-hill_, on the south side of _Silbury-hill_.

Here I am sufficiently satisfied this avenue terminated, at the like distance from _Abury_-town, as _Overton-hill_ was, in the former avenue; 100 stones on a side, 4000 cubits in length; ten _stadia_ or the eastern mile. Several stones are left dispersedly on banks and meres of the lands. One great stone belonging to this end of the avenue, lies buried almost under ground, in the plow’d land between the barrow west of _Longstone_ long barrow, and the last hedge in the town of _Bekamton_. _Richard Fowler_ shew’d me the ground here, whence he took several stones and demolish’d them. I am equally satisfied there was no temple or circle of stones at this end of it. 1. Because it would be absurd in drawing. The head of the snake was aptly represented by that double circle on _Overton-hill_: but this place, the tail of the snake, admitted no such thing, and I doubt not but it grew narrower and narrower as before we observed, of the neck of the snake. 2. Here is not the least report of such a thing among the country people. It would most assuredly have been well known, because every stone was demolish’d within memory, when I was there. I cannot doubt but many have suffered since; and I have had very disagreeable accounts thereof sent to me. I apprehend this end of the avenue drew narrower in imitation of the tail of a snake, and that one stone stood in the middle of the end, by way of close. This I infer from the manner of the end of that avenue of the Druid temple at _Classerness_; which I take to be the tail of a snake. Of which hereafter.

For a more mathematical determination of this end of the avenue, see Chap X. at the end.

The avenue took another circular sweep of a contrary manner, as it descended from _Longstone_ cove, bending southward.

————_pars cætera campum
Ponè legit, sinuatque immensa volumine terga_.

as _Virgil_ writes of this creature, _Æneid_ II.

And it went over variety of elevations and depressures as the other of _Kennet_ avenue; but that terminated on a hill, as this in a valley. With great judgment, they thus laid out the ground, to make the whole more picture-like.

_Stukeley delin._ _Toms Sculp._

_Continuation of Kennet avenue 24. May 1724._]

_Bekamton_-village lies very low, at the bottom of a valley subject to inundations, and the ground is springy: they can’t make cellars there: whereas _Abury_ is very dry, and their wells deep.

There are many barrows on the south downs, between St. _Anne’s-hill_ and _Bekamton_, which chiefly regard this avenue. Many as we go up to the _Roman_ camp of _Oldbury_, and in _Yatesbury_-field. And pretty near the termination, in the valley of _Bekamton_ under _Cherill-hill_, is a group or line of half a score of very different forms, which make a pretty appearance. So the valley along the present road from _Bekamton_ to the _Devizes_ and _Bath_, is full of barrows on both sides; all regarding this part of the sacred work, the tail of the snake.

I am confident, the reader by this time has conceiv’d a just notion of this wonderful work, which we have describ’d with as much brevity as possible; and at the same time he will resent its fate, that a few miserable farmers should, within the space of 20 years, destroy this the noblest monument, which is probably on the face of the globe; which has stood so many ages, and was made to stand as many more. The grandeur of the work has render’d it altogether unnecessary to add any heightning, or any flourishes. I leave it as an out-line of the most masterly hand, a picture that requires no colouring.

Concerning the forms of the religious performances here, I can say but little, more than that I see nothing, but what appears to be in the ancient patriarchal mode, before cover’d temples were introduc’d in the world; the æra of which time, I am fully convinc’d, was that of the _Mosaick_ tabernacle. We may well assert this to be ancienter than that time; as the largest, so probably one of the most ancient in the _Britannic_ isles. The Druids were tempted to make this work here, by the appearance of the stones on the downs, on the other side of _Hakpen-hill_, call’d the gray weathers. Finding the ground all overspread with these enormous masses, they had no difficulty in resolving, and they made none in putting their resolution in execution; in conveying 650 of the choicest of them, to make this notable temple. Thus we cast up the number.

The outer circle of _Abury_ town 100
The outer circle of the northern temple 030
The inner circle 012
The cove 003
The outer circle of the southern temple 030
The inner circle 012
The ambre or central obelisc 001
The ring stone 001
The avenue of _Kennet_ 200
The outer circle of _Hakpen_ 040
The inner 018
The avenue of _Bekamton_ 200
_Longstone_ cove jambs 002
The inclosing stone of the serpent’s tail 001
————
650

The square of _Solomon_’s temple was 700 cubits; the diameter of _Abury_ is 800. But _Abury_, in square content, is to _Solomon_’s temple as 50 to 49. If we take into the account the _vallum_ of _Abury_, we find this would hold incomparably more people than the other, as spectators or assistants. An hundred oxen in sacrifice was an hecatomb. Twenty two thousand were offered by _Solomon_ at the dedication, beside other animals. Three times in the year the whole nation of _Israel_ assembled there, to pay their devotions and sacrifices, the aboriginal covenant made between God and man, in order to obtain favour and pardon. For ought we know, there might be as many here, and on the same account. I believe their most common times of these extraordinary religious meetings were on the four quarters of the year, the equinoxes and solstices.

We may well wonder how these people could bring together so many of these great stones, and set them up so exactly. The stones they had not far to fetch, only from the other side of the _Hakpen_, from the gray weathers. Their vicinity, their lying on the surface of the ground, the soil here being solid chalk, was the great inducement for the Druids, in these most early ages, to build this temple. The manner of their mechanics, which undoubtedly was very simple, must be equally surprizing. I apprehend, they brought the stones upon strong carriages, and drew them by men. For even in _Cæsar_’s time, there was an infinite multitude of people. Their manner of raising the stones seems to have been with tall trees, us’d for leavers, and no doubt very artfully apply’d. The method of fixing these enormous blocks of stone was, to dig a hole in the solid chalk, and ram the foundation of it in, with lesser stones, flints, and coggles, very artfully. They are not let in above two feet and a half deep. And the country being all a solid bed of chalk, was another reason why here, as at _Stonehenge_, they chose it for this extraordinary building. The conducting and rightly managing an immense number of hands, the providing for their maintenance, was a matter of wisdom and great authority. The marvellous effect produced, might well establish the glory of the Druids of _Britain_, which echoed across the ocean, and very much favour’d the opinion mankind had conceiv’d of their practising magick. For magick is nothing else but the science that teaches us to perform wonderful and surprizing things, in the later acceptation of the word. And in very many ages after the Druid times, mankind had the same notion, and the vulgar have to this day, concerning these works. And most probably from them sprung the character, which _Pliny_ gives of our _british_ Druids practising magic, and being so great proficients therein, as to equal the _persian_ and _chaldean magi_, “so that one would even think,” says he, “the Druids had taught it them.”

I judge it much more probable, the Druids learn’d it from them, at least they both derive it from the same original fountain. And whatever they might practise of real magic, the notion of mankind concerning them, receiv’d strength from the name _magi_, which they might bring with them from the east. _Magus_ there originally signifies no more than a _priest_, or person who officiates in sacreds. The word comes from _maaghim meditabundi_, people of a contemplative, retir’d life; whom more commonly in the west, they call’d Druids. I am not dubious in thinking the times we are talking of, when this temple of _Abury_ was built, are of the extremest antiquity, near that of _Abraham_. I was very often on the spot, furnish’d with what I thought a convincing argument, from considering the wear of the weather, what effect it had upon these stones of a very firm texture, a kind of gray marble. And thus my reasoning was founded.

I had sufficient opportunity of comparing the effect of the weather upon the stones here, and upon those at _Stonehenge_. For some years together, I went from one to the other directly, staying a fortnight or more at each place to make my observations. Nothing is more manifest, than that the stones of _Stonehenge_ have been chizel’d, some quite round, some on three sides, easily to be distinguish’d. The stones of _Abury_ are absolutely untouch’d of tool. No doubt, at that time of day, the aboriginal patriarchal method from the foundation of the world was observ’d, not to admit a tool upon them. Even when _Solomon_’s temple was built, tho’ the stones were all carv’d with great art, yet that was done before they were brought to the building; for no ax or hammer was heard thereon. The like, probably, may be said of _Stonehenge_.

_The HAKPEN or snakes head temple on Overton hill, calld the
Sanctuary._]

It seems likely, that when _Stonehenge_ was built, the Druids had some notice from _phœnician_ traders, of the nature of _Solomon_’s temple; therefore they made their impost work, as some kind of advance, toward a cover’d temple, and likewise chizel’d their stones in compliance thereto. By using the best of my judgment, in comparing the effect of the weather upon _Stonehenge_ and _Abury_, I could easily induce myself to think that _Abury_ was as old again. For in some places there were cavities a yard long, corroded by time, and on those sides that originally lay on the ground, which, if they had not been expos’d to the weather, by being set upright, would have been smooth. Several other persons of good judgment have been of the same sentiment.

CHAP. IX.

_Of the barrows or sepulchral tumuli about_ Abury, _very numerous
here, as having for ages been a metropolitical temple. The
several kinds of them, conjecturally distinguished. Royal barrows
of old and later fashions. Druids’ barrows. Archdruids’ or long
barrows._ Silbury _much the largest barrow about_ Abury, _and
perhaps in the world. The temple built, seemingly, on account of
this barrow. The sacred character as a prophylactic to the ashes
of the dead. The Druids taught the resurrection of the body as
well as soul. The great king dug up, who was interred at top. His
most ancient bridle found with the corps, in possession of the
author. The_ british _chariots an oriental usage. A conjecture
of the name of this king_, Cunedha, _who lived at_ Marlborough.
_Of the fountain of the_ Kennet _hard by, taking its name from
him. The dimension of_ Silbury-hill, _its solid content. A
demonstration of the_ Roman _road made since_ Silbury-hill. _A
conjecture concerning the time of year when this prince died.
The anniversaries of the ancients at the tombs of the dead. What
has been found in other barrows here. Beads of amber, and other
matter, as glass, earth, &c. A flat gold ring, spear-heads, a bit
of gold. Another demonstration of the_ Roman _road being later
than these works. An entire urn which the author dug up. A double
circle of stones at_ Winterburn-basset. _Pyriform barrows. Of
long barrows or archdruids’. Very large ones here, above 300 foot
long. Some set round with stones. Some with great stoneworks at
the end._

So many ages as _Abury_ was the great cathedral, the chief metropolitical or patriarchal temple of the island, no wonder there are an infinite number of these barrows about it. Great princes, and men within a considerable tract of country round here, would naturally choose to leave their mortal remains in this sacred ground, more peculiarly under the divine regard. Every hill-top within view of the place is sure to be crowned with them. As at _Stonehenge_, so here, there are great varieties of them, which no doubt, originally, had their distinctions of the quality and profession of the person interr’d. In the additions to Mr. _Camden_’s _Wiltshire_, several sorts of them are mention’d.

1. Small circular trenches, with very little elevation in the middle. These are what I call (for distinction-sake) Druid barrows. An eminent one I have given plate XXII, on the _Hakpen_ hill, overlooking _Kennet_ avenue.

Prospect of the Temple on Overton Hill. 8 July 1723.

_Stukeley d._

_The Hakpen, or head of the Snake, in ruins._]

2. Ordinary barrows, meaning plain round ones, common all over _England_. Some may be _roman_, or _saxon_, or _danish_, as well as _british_.

3. Barrows with ditches round them. These are commonly such as I esteem royal, of the newest fashion among the old _Britons_; generally of an elegantly turn’d bell-form. These two last sort I call king-barrows.

4. Large oblong barrows, some with trenches round them, others without. These I call, for method sake, archdruids’ barrows. Several of ’em near _Abury_ and _Stonehenge_. And sometimes we find ’em in other places about the kingdom. A druid celt was found in that north of _Stonehenge_, which induc’d me to give them the title. I shall speak a little concerning them in the method mention’d, as they are observable about _Abury_, but we ought to begin with _Silbury_, which, says our right reverend and learned author, is the largest barrow in the county, and perhaps in all _England_.

_Silbury_ indeed is a most astonishing collection of earth, artificially rais’d, worthy of _Abury_, worthy of the king who was the royal founder of _Abury_, as we may very plausibly affirm. By considering the picture of _Abury_ temple, we may discern, that as this immense body of earth was rais’d for the sake of the interment of this great prince, whoever he was: so the temple of _Abury_ was made for the sake of this _tumulus_; and then I have no scruple to affirm, ’tis the most magnificent _mausoleum_ in the world, without excepting the _Egyptian_ pyramids.

_Silbury_ stands exactly south of _Abury_, and exactly between the two extremities of the two avenues, the head and tail of the snake. The work of _Abury_, which is the circle, and the two avenues which represent the snake transmitted thro’ it, are the great _hierogrammaton_, or sacred prophylactic character of the divine mind, which is to protect the _depositum_ of the prince here interr’d. The _Egyptians_, for the very same reason, frequently pictur’d the same hieroglyphic upon the breast of their mummies, as particularly on that in my lord _Sandwich_’s collection; and very frequently on the top and summit of _Egyptian_ obeliscs, this picture of the serpent and circle is seen; and upon an infinity of their monuments. In the very same manner this huge snake and circle, made of stones, hangs, as it were, brooding over _Silbury-hill_, in order to bring again to a new life the person there buried. For our Druids taught the expectation of a future life, both soul and body, with greatest care, and made it no less than a certainty.

————————_vobis auctoribus umbræ
Non tacitas Erebi sedes, Ditisque profundi
Pallida regna petunt; regit idem spiritus artus
Orbe alio_———— Sings _Lucan. Phars._ I.

Here might be said, with the same poet,

_Et regis cineres extructo monte quiescunt._ Lucan.