Chapter I: Front Matter (1)

_ACETARIA_

A DISCOURSE OF SALLETS

* * * * *

By _JOHN EVELYN, Esq._

Author of the _Kalendarium_

* * * * *

_BROOKLYN_,

Published by the _Women's Auxiliary_,

BROOKLYN BOTANIC GARDEN

1937

_Printed in the United States of America_

_Publisher's Note_

This edition of Acetaria is a faithful reprint of the First Edition of 1699, with the correction of a few obvious typographical errors, and those noted in the Errata of the original edition. Whereas no attempt has been made to reproduce the typography of the original, the spirit has been retained, and the vagaries of spelling and punctuation have been carefully followed; also the old-style S [s] has been retained. Much of the flavour of Acetaria is lost if it is scanned too hurriedly; and one should remember also that Latin and Greek were the gauge of a man of letters, and if the titles and quotations seem a bit ponderous, they are as amusing a conceit as the French and German complacencies of a more recent generation.

_Foreword to Acetaria_

John Evelyn, famous for his "Diary," was a friend and contemporary of Samuel Pepys. Both were conscientious public servants who had held minor offices in the government. But, while Pepys' diary is sparkling and redolent of the free manners of the Restoration, Evelyn's is the record of a sober, scholarly man. His mind turned to gardens, to sculpture and architecture, rather than to the gaieties of contemporary social life. Pepys was an urban figure and Evelyn was "county." He represents the combination of public servant and country gentleman which has been the supreme achievement of English culture.

Horace Walpole said of him in his Catalogue of Engravers, "I must observe that his life, which was extended to eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, instruction and benevolence."

Courtiers, artists, and scientists were his friends. Grinling Gibbons was brought to the King's notice by Evelyn, and Henry Howard, Duke of Norfolk, was persuaded by him to present the Arundel Marbles to the University of Oxford. In London he engaged in divers charitable and civic affairs and was commissioner for improving the streets and buildings in London. He had charge of the sick and wounded of the Dutch War and also, with the fineness of character typical of his kind, he remained at his post through the Great Plague. Evelyn was also active in organizing the Royal Society and became its first secretary.

In the country he spent his time studying, writing and in developing his own and his brother's estates. He translated several French books, one of them by Nicolas de Bonnefons was entitled "The French Gardener; instructions how to cultivate all sorts of fruit-trees." Evelyn undoubtedly knew another book of de Bonnefons called "_Les Delices de la Campagne_." Delights of the country, according to de Bonnefons, consisted largely in delights of the palate, and perhaps it was this book which suggested to Evelyn to write a cookery-garden book such as Acetaria. He also translated Jean de la Quintinie's "The Compleat Gardener." His "Sylva, or a discourse of Forest Trees" was written as a protest against the destruction of trees in England being carried on by the glass factories and iron furnaces, and the book succeeded in inducing landowners to plant millions of trees.

The list of Evelyn's writings shows a remarkable diversity in subject matter. There was a book on numismatics and translations from the Greek, political and historical pamphlets, and a book called "Fumifugium or the inconvenience of the Aer and Smoke of London dissipated," in which he suggests that sweet-smelling trees should be planted to purify the air of London. He also wrote a book called "Sculpture, or the History of Chalcography and Engraving in Copper."

Living in the country and cultivating his fruits and vegetables, Evelyn grew to be an ardent believer in vegetarianism and is probably the first advocate in England of a meatless diet. He was so keen on preparing foods without meat that, like another contemporary, Sir Kenelm Digby, he collected recipes. These, interspersed with delightful philosophic comments and some directions about gardening, were assembled in the little book Acetaria. This was published in 1699 along with the ninth edition of the "Kalendarium Hortense," a gardener's almanac.

The material for _Acetaria_ was gathered as early as 1679 with the idea of making it one chapter of an encyclopedic work on horticulture. The _Plan of a Royal Garden_, was Evelyn's outline for that ambitious work.

The recipes are unusual and delicious and some of them are practical for today, especially for the owner of a garden where pot herbs are cultivated. Evelyn uses the pot herbs for flavoring soups, egg dishes, "salletts" and puddings. The eggs with sweet herbs prepared in ramikins and the pudding flavored with the petals of calendulas are particularly good.

The book reveals his zest for living and the culture of his mind. It also shows the thought and life of a country gentleman during the reign of Charles the Second. Evidently, in Evelyn's home, the spirit of scientific investigation prevailed and there was a delight in new ideas. Evelyn supervised the garden and knew how to instruct the cook to prepare new dishes.

Although Acetaria is a book of directions for gardening and cooking, it is not the least didactic but is written in a discoursive style and with a leisureliness and in a rhythm suited to the slow pace of a horse trotting through the winding lanes of the English countryside. As we read, we can almost see the butler bringing a fragrant pudding to the family assembled around the dining table in the wood-panelled room. Or again we can almost smell the thyme, mint, and savory growing in tidy rows in the well-tilled and neatly ordered garden of John Evelyn.

_Helen M. Fox_

* * * * *

* * * * *

_To the Right Honourable_

_JOHN_

Lord Somers

_of Evesham_

Lord _High-Chancellor_ of England,

and _President_ of the _Royal-Society_.

* * * * *

_My Lord_,

The _Idea_ and _Plan_ of the _Royal-Society_ having been first conceiv'd and delineated by a _Great_ and _Learned Chancellor_, which High Office your Lordship deservedly bears; not as an Acquisition of Fortune, but your Intellectual Endowments; Conspicuous (among other Excellencies) by the Inclination Your Lordship discovers to promote _Natural Knowledge_: As it justifies the Discernment of that _Assembly_, to pitch upon Your Lordship for their _President_, so does it no less discover the Candor, yea, I presume to say, the Sublimity of your Mind, in so generously honoring them with your _Acceptance_ of the _Choice_ they have made.

A [1]_Chancellor_, and a very Learned Lord, was the _First_ who honoured the _Chair_; and a no less Honorable and Learned _Chancellor_, resigns it to Your Lordship: So as after all the Difficulties and Hardships the _Society_ has hitherto gone through; it has thro' the Favour and Protection of its _Presidents_, not only preserv'd its Reputation from the Malevolence of Enemies and Detracters, but gone on _Culminating_, and now _Triumphantly_ in Your Lordship: Under whose propitious Influence, I am perswaded, it may promise it self _That_, which indeed has hitherto been wanting, to justifie the Glorious _Title_ it bears of a ROYAL SOCIETY. The _Emancipating_ it from some Remaining and Discouraging Circumstances, which it as yet labours under; among which, that of a _Precarious_ and unsteady Abode, is not the least.

This _Honor_ was reserv'd for Your Lordship; and an _Honor_, permit me to call it, not at all unworthy the Owning of the Greatest Person living: Namely, the Establishing and Promoting _Real Knowledge_; and (next to what is _Divine_) truly so called; as far, at least, as Humane Nature extends towards the Knowledge of Nature, by enlarging her Empire beyond the Land of _Spectres, Forms, Intentional Species, Vacuum, Occult Qualities_, and other _Inadequate Notions_; which, by their Obstreperous and Noisy Disputes, affrighting, and (till of late) deterring Men from adventuring on further Discoveries, confin'd them in a lazy Acquiescence, and to be fed with _Fantasms_ and fruitless Speculations, which signifie nothing to the _specifick_ Nature of Things, solid and useful knowledge; by the _Investigation of Causes, Principles, Energies, Powers_, and _Effects_ of _Bodies_, and _Things Visible_; and to improve them for the Good and Benefit of Mankind.

_My Lord_, That which the _Royal Society_ needs to accomplish an entire Freedom, and (by rendring their Circumstances more easie) capable to subsist with Honor, and to reach indeed the Glorious Ends of its _Institution_, is an Establishment in a more Settl'd, _Appropriate_, and _Commodious Place_; having hitherto (like the _Tabernacle_ in the _Wilderness_) been only _Ambulatory_ for almost _Forty Years_: But _Solomon_ built the First _Temple_; and what forbids us to hope, that as Great a _Prince_ may build _Solomon's House_, as that Great _Chancellor_ (one of Your Lordship's Learned _Predecessors_) had design'd the _Plan_; there being nothing in that _August_ and _Noble Model_ impossible, or beyond the _Power_ of _Nature_ and Learned Industry.

Thus, whilst King _Solomon's_ Temple was _Consecrated_ to the _God_ of _Nature_, and his true Worship; _This_ may be _Dedicated_, and set apart for the _Works_ of _Nature_; deliver'd from those Illusions and Impostors, that are still endeavouring to cloud and depress the True, and _Substantial Philosophy_: A _shallow_ and _Superficial Insight_, wherein (as that Incomparable Person rightly observes) having made so many _Atheists_: whilst a _profound_ and thorow _Penetration_ into her _Recesses_ (which is the _Business_ of the _Royal Society_) would lead Men to the _Knowledge_, and _Admiration_ of the _Glorious Author_.

And now, _My Lord_, I expect some will wonder what my Meaning is, to usher in a _Trifle_, with so much Magnificence, and end at last in a fine _Receipt_ for the _Dressing_ of a _Sallet_ with an Handful of _Pot-Herbs_! But yet, _My Lord_, this _Subject_, as low and despicable as it appears, challenges a Part of _Natural History_, and the Greatest Princes have thought it no Disgrace, not only to make it their _Diversion_, but their _Care_, and to promote and encourage it in the midst of their weightiest Affairs: He who wrote of the _Cedar_ of _Libanus_, wrote also of the _Hysop which grows upon the Wall_.

To verifie this, how much might I say of _Gardens_ and _Rural Employments_, preferrable to the Pomp and Grandeur of other Secular Business, and that in the Estimate of as Great Men as any Age has produc'd! And it is of such _Great Souls_ we have it recorded; That after they had perform'd the Noblest Exploits for the Publick, they sometimes chang'd their _Scepters_ for the _Spade_, and their _Purple_ for the Gardiner's _Apron_. And of these, some, My _Lord_, were _Emperors, Kings, Consuls, Dictators_, and Wise _Statesmen_; who amidst the most important Affairs, both in Peace and War, have quitted all their Pomp and Dignity in Exchange of this Learned Pleasure: Nor that of the most _refin'd_ Part of _Agriculture_ (the _Philosophy_ of the _Garden_ and _Parterre_ only) but of _Herbs_, and wholesom _Sallets_, and other plain and useful Parts of _Geoponicks_, and Wrote _Books_ of _Tillage_ and _Husbandry_; and took the _Plough-Tackle_ for their _Banner_, and their _Names_ from the _Grain_ and _Pulse_ they sow'd, as the Marks and Characters of the highest Honor.

But I proceed no farther on a _Topic_ so well known to Your Lordship: Nor urge I Examples of such Illustrious Persons laying aside their Grandeur, and even of deserting their Stations; (which would infinitely prejudice the Publick, when worthy Men are in Place, and at the Helm) But to shew how consisent the Diversions of the _Garden_ and _Villa_ were, with the highest and busiest Employment of the _Commonwealth_, and never thought a Reproch, or the least Diminution to the Gravity and Veneration due to their Persons, and the Noble Rank they held.

Will Your Lordship give me Leave to repeat what is said of the Younger _Pliny_, (Nephew to the _Naturalist_) and whom I think we may parallel with the Greatest of his time (and perhaps of any since) under the Worthiest _Emperor_ the _Roman_ world ever had? A Person of vast Abilities, Rich, and High in his Master's Favour; that so Husbanded his time, as in the Midst of the weightiest Affairs, to have Answer'd, and by his [2]_Example_, made good what I have said on this Occasion. The Ancient and best Magistrates of _Rome_ allow'd but the _Ninth_ Day for the _City_ and _Publick Business_; the rest for the _Country_ and the _Sallet Garden_: There were then fewer _Causes_ indeed at the _Bar_; but never greater _Justice_, nor _better Judges_ and _Advocates_. And 'tis hence observed, that we hardly find a Great and Wise Man among the Ancients, _qui nullos habuit hortos_, excepting only _Pomponius Atticus_; wilst his Dear _Cicero_ professes, that he never laid out his Money more readily, than in the purchasing of _Gardens_, and those sweet Retirements, for which he so often left the _Rostra_ (and Court of the Greatest and most flourishing State of the World) to visit, prune, and water them with his own Hands.

But, _My Lord_, I forget with whom I am talking thus; and a _Gardiner_ ought not to be so bold. The present I humbly make your Lordship, is indeed but a _Sallet_ of _Crude Herbs_: But there is among them that which was a _Prize_ at the _Isthmian Games_; and Your Lordship knows who it was both accepted, and rewarded as despicable an Oblation of this kind. The Favor I humbly beg, is Your Lordship's Pardon for this Presumption. The Subject is _mean_, and requires it, and my _Reputation_ in danger; should Your Lordship hence suspect that one could never write so much of _dressing Sallets_, who minded anything serious, besides the gratifying a Sensual Appetite with a Voluptuary _Apician_ Art.

Truly, _My Lord_, I am so far from designing to promote those _Supplicia Luxuriae_, (as _Seneca_ calls them) by what I have here written; that were it in my Power, I would recall the World, if not altogether to their Pristine _Diet_, yet to a much more _wholsome_ and _temperate_ than is now in Fashion: And what if they find me like to some who are eager after _Hunting_ and other Field-Sports, which are _Laborious_ Exercises? and _Fishing_, which is indeed a _Lazy_ one? who, after all their Pains and Fatigue, never eat what they take and catch in either: For some such I have known: And tho' I cannot affirm so of my self, (when a well drest and excellent _Sallet_ is before me) I am yet a very moderate Eater of them. So as to this _Book-Luxury_, I can affirm, and that truly what the _Poet_ says of himself (on a less innocent Occasion) _Lasciva pagina, vita proba._ God forbid, that after all I have advanc'd in Praise of _Sallets_, I should be thought to plead for the Vice I censure, and chuse that of _Epicurus_ for my _Lemma_; _In hac arte consenui_; or to have spent my time in nothing else. The _Plan_ annext to these Papers, and the _Apparatus_ made to superstruct upon it, would acquit me of having bent all my Contemplations on _Sallets_ only. What I humbly offer Your Lordship, is (as I said) Part of _Natural History_, the Product of _Horticulture_, and the _Field_, dignified by the most illustrious, and sometimes tilled _Laureato Vomere_; which, as it concerns a Part of _Philosophy_, I may (without Vanity) be allow'd to have taken some Pains in Cultivating, as an inferior Member of the _Royal Society_.

But, _My Lord_, wilst You read on (if at least You vouchsafe me that Honor to read at all) I am conscious I rob the Publick of its most Precious Moments.

I therefore Humbly again Implore Your Lordship's Pardon: Nor indeed needed I to have said half this, to kindle in Your Breast, that which is already shining there (Your Lordship's Esteem of the _Royal Society_) after what You were pleas'd to Express in such an Obliging manner, when it was lately to wait upon Your Lordship; among whom I had the Honor to be a Witness of Your Generous, and Favourable Acceptance of their Addresses, who am,

_My Lord,
Your Lordship's Most Humble
and Most Obedient Servant,

JOHN EVELYN_.

* * * * *

THE PREFACE

The _Favourable Entertainment which the_ Kalendar _has found, encouraging the_ Bookseller _to adventure upon_ a Ninth Impression, I _could not refuse his Request of my Revising, and Giving it the best Improvement I was capable_, to an Inexhaustible Subject, _as it regards a Part of_ Horticulture; _and offer some little Aid to such as love a Diversion so Innocent and Laudable. There are those of late, who have arrogated, and given the Glorious Title_ of Compleat _and_ Accomplish'd Gardiners, _to what they have Publish'd; as if there were nothing wanting, nothing more remaining, or farther to be expected from the Field; and that_ Nature _had been quite emptied of all her fertile Store: Whilst those who thus magnifie their Discoveries, have after all, penetrated but a very little Way into this Vast, Ample, and as yet, Unknown Territory; Who see not, that it would still require the Revolution of many Ages; deep, and long_ Experience, _for any Man to Emerge that Perfect, and Accomplish'd Artist_ Gardiner _they boast themselves to be: Nor do I think, Men will ever reach the End, and far extended Limits of the_ Vegetable Kingdom, _so incomprehensible is the Variety it every Day produces, of the most Useful, and Admirable of all the Aspectable Works of God; since almost all we_ see, _and_ touch, _and_ taste, _and_ smell, eat _and_ drink, are clad _with, and_ defended (_from the Greatest_ Prince _to the Meanest_ Peasant) _is furnished from that Great and Universal Plantation_, Epitomiz'd _in our_ Gardens, _highly worth the Contemplation of the most Profound Divine, and Deepest_ Philosopher.

_I should be asham'd to acknowledge how little I have advanced, could I find that ever any Mortal Man from_ Adam, Noah, Solomon, Aristotle, Theophrastus, Dioscorides, _and the rest of Nature's Interpreters, had ever arriv'd to the perfect Knowledge of any one_ Plant, _or_ Vulgar Weed _whatsoever: But this perhaps may yet possibly be reserv'd for another State of Things, and a_ [3]_longer Day; that is_, When Time shall be no more, but Knowledge shall be encreas'd.

_We have heard of one who studied and contemplated the Nature of_ Bees _only, for_ Sixty Years: _After which, you will not wonder, that a Person of my Acquaintance, should have spent almost_ Forty, _in Gathering and Amassing Materials for an_ Hortulan _Design, to so enormous an Heap, as to fill some_ Thousand Pages; _and yet be comprehended within two, or three Acres of Ground; nay, within the Square of less than_ One (_skilfully Planted and Cultivated) sufficient to furnish, and entertain his Time and Thoughts all his Life long, with a most Innocent, Agreeable, and Useful Employment. But you may justly wonder, and Condemn the Vanity of it too, with that Reproach_, This Man began to build, but was not able to finish! _This has been the Fate of that Undertaking; and I dare promise, will be of whosoever imagines (without the Circumstances of extraordinary Assistance, and no ordinary Expence) to pursue the_ Plan, _erect, and finish the_ Fabrick _as it ought to be_.

_But this is that which_ Abortives _the Perfection of the most Glorious and Useful Undertakings; the Unsatiable Coveting to Exhaust all that should, or can be said upon every Head: If such a one have any thing else to mind, or do in the World, let me tell him, he thinks of Building too late; and rarely find we any, who care to superstruct upon the Foundation of another, and whose_ Ideas _are alike. There ought therefore to be as many_ Hands, _and_ Subsidiaries _to such a Design_ (_and those_ Matters _too_) _as there are distinct Parts of the Whole (according to the subsequent Table) that those who have the Means and Courage, may_ (_tho' they do not undertake the_ Whole) _finish a_ Part _at least, and in time Unite their Labours into one Intire, Compleat, and Consummate Work indeed_.

_Of_ One _or_ Two _of these_, I _attempted only a_ Specimen _in my_ SILVA _and the_ KALENDAR; Imperfect, _I say, because they are both capable of Great Improvements: It is not therefore to be expected_ (_Let me use the Words of an Old, and Experienced_ Gardiner) Cuncta me dicturum, quae vastitas ejus scientiae contineret, sed plurima; nam illud in unius hominis prudentiam cadere non poterit, neque est ulla Disciplina aut Ars, quae singulari consummata sit ingenio.

_May it then suffice_ aliquam partem tradidisse, _and that I have done my Endeavour_.

... Jurtilis olim
Ne Videar vixisse.

_Much more might I add upon this Charming, and Fruitful Subject (I mean, concerning_ Gardening:) _But this is not a Place to Expatiate, deterr'd, as I have long since been, from so bold an Enterprize, as the Fabrick I mentioned. I content my self then with an_ Humble Cottage, _and a Simple_ Potagere, _Appendant to the_ Calendar; _which, Treating only (and that briefly) of the_ Culture _of_ Moderate Gardens; _Nothing seems to me, shou'd be more_ Welcome _and_ Agreeable, _than whilst the Product of them is come into more_ Request _and_ Use _amongst us, than heretofore (beside what we call, and distinguish by the Name of_ Fruit) _I did annex some particular Directions concerning_ S A L L E T S.

* * * * *

_THE_

PLAN

_OF A_

_ROYAL GARDEN:_

Describing, and Shewing the _Amplitude_, and _Extent_ of that Part of _Georgicks_, which belongs to _Horticulture_.

* * * * *

In Three Books

* * * * *

_BOOK I_.

_Chap. I_. Of _Principles and Elements_ in general.

_Chap. II_. Of the Four (vulgarly reputed) Elements; _Fire, Air, Water; Earth_.

_Chap. III_. Of the Celestial _Influences_, and particularly of the _Sun, Moon_, and of the _Climates_.

_Chap. IV_. Of the Four _Annual Seasons_.

_Chap. V_. Of the Natural _Mould_ and _Soil_ of a Garden.

_Chap. VI_. Of _Composts_, and _Stercoration, Repastination, Dressing_ and _Stirring_ the _Earth_ and _Mould_ of a Garden.

_BOOK II_.

_Chap. I_. A Garden _Derived_ and _Defin'd;_ its _Dignity, Distinction_, and _Sorts_.

_Chap. II_. Of a _Gardiner_, how to be _qualify 'd, regarded_ and _rewarded_; his _Habitation, Cloathing, Diet_, Under-_Workmen_ and _Assistants_.

_Chap. III_. Of the _Instruments_ belonging to a Gardiner; their various _Uses_, and _Machanical_ Powers.

_Chap. IV_. Of the _Terms_ us'd, and affected by Gardiners.

_Chap. V_. Of _Enclosing, Fencing, Plotting_, and disposing of the Ground; and of _Terraces, Walks, Allies, Malls, Bowling-Greens, &c._

_Chap. VI_. Of a _Seminary, Nurseries_; and of Propagating _Trees, Plants_ and _Flowers, Planting_ and _Transplanting, &c._

_Chap. VII_. Of _Knots, Parterres, Compartiments, Borders, Banks_ and _Embossments_.

_Chap. VIII_. Of _Groves, Labyrinths, Dedals, Cabinets, Cradles, Close-Walks, Galleries, Pavilions, Portico's, Lanterns_, and other _Relievo's_; of _Topiary_ and _Hortulan Architecture_.

_Chap. IX_. Of _Fountains, Jetto's, Cascades, Rivulets, Piscinas, Canals, Baths_, and other Natural, and Artificial _Water-works_.

_Chap. X_. Of _Rocks, Grotts, Cryptae, Mounts, Precipices, Ventiducts, Conservatories_, of _Ice_ and _Snow_, and other Hortulan Refreshments.

_Chap. XI_. Of _Statues, Busts, Obelisks, Columns, Inscriptions, Dials, Vasa's, Perspectives, Paintings_, and other Ornaments.

_Chap. XII_. Of _Gazon-Theatres, Amphitheatres_, Artificial _Echo's, Automata_ and _Hydraulic Musck_.

_Chap. XIII_. Of _Aviaries, Apiaries, Vivaries, Insects, &c._

_Chap. XIV_. Of _Verdures, Perennial Greens_, and _Perpetual Springs_.

_Chap. XV_. Of _Orangeries, Oporotheca's, Hybernacula, Stoves_, and Conservatories of Tender _Plants_ and _Fruits_, and how to order them.

_Chap. XVI_. Of the _Coronary_ Garden: _Flowers_ and _Rare Plants_, how they are to be _Raised, Governed_ and _Improved_; and how the Gardiner _is_ to keep his _Register_.

_Chap. XVII_. Of the _Philosophical Medical_ Garden.

_Chap. XVIII_. Of _Stupendous_ and _Wonderful_ _Plants_.

_Chap. XIX_. Of the _Hort-Yard_ and _Potagere_; and what _Fruit-Trees, Olitory_ and _Esculent_ _Plants_, may be admitted into a Garden of Pleasure.

_Chap. XX_. Of _Sallets_.

_Chap. XXI_. Of a _Vineyard_, and Directions concerning the making of _Wine_ and other _Vinous_ Liquors, and of _Teas_.

_Chap. XXII_. Of _Watering, Pruning, Plashing, Pallisading, Nailing, Clipping, Mowing, Rowlling, Weeding, Cleansing, &c._

_Chap. XXIII_. Of the _Enemies_ and _Infirmities_ to which Gardens are obnoxious, together with _Remedies_.

_Chap. XXIV_. Of the Gardiner's _Almanack_ or _Kalendarium Hortense_, directing what he is to do Monthly, and what _Fruits_ and _Flowers_ are in prime.

_BOOK III_.

_Chap. I_. Of _Conserving, Properating, Retarding, Multiplying, Transmuting_, and Altering the

_Species, Forms_, and (reputed) _Substantial Qualities_ of _Plants, Fruits_ and _Flowers_.

_Chap. II_. Of the Hortulan _Elaboratory_; and of _distilling_ and _extracting_ of _Waters, Spirits, Essences, Salts, Colours_, Resuscitation of _Plants_, with other rare Experiments, and an Account of their _Virtues_.

_Chap. III_. Of Composing the _Hortus Hyemalis_, and making Books, of _Natural, Arid Plants_ and _Flowers_, with several Ways of Preserving them in their _Beauty_.

_Chap. IV_. Of _Painting_ of Flowers, Flowers _enamell'd, Silk, Callico's, Paper, Wax, Guns, Pasts, Horns, Glass, Shells, Feathers, Moss, Pietra Comessa, Inlayings, Embroyderies, Carvings_, and other Artificial Representations of them.

_Chap. V_. Of _Crowns, Chaplets, Garlands, Festoons, Encarpa, Flower-Pots, Nosegays, Poeses, Deckings_, and other Flowery _Pomps_.

_Chap. VI_. Of _Hortulan Laws_ and _Privileges_.

_Chap. VII_. Of the _Hortulan Study_, and of a _Library, Authors_ and _Books_ assistant to it.

_Chap. VIII_. Of _Hortulan Entertainments, Natural, Divine, Moral_, and _Political_; with divers _Historical_ Passages, and Solemnities, to shew the _Riches, Beauty, Wonder, Plenty, Delight_, and Universal Use of Gardens.

_Chap. IX_. Of Garden _Burial_.

_Chap. X_. Of _Paradise_, and of the most _Famous Gardens_ in the World, _Ancient_ and _Modern_.

_Chap. XI_. The Description of a _Villa_.

_Chap. XII_. The _Corollary_ and _Conclusion_.

----_Laudato ingentia rura_,
_Exiguum colito_.----

* * * * *

ACETARIA:

A Discourse of Sallets

* * * * *

Sallets in general consist of certain _Esculent_ Plants and Herbs, improv'd by Culture, Industry, and Art of the _Gard'ner_: Or, as others say, they are a Composition of _Edule_ Plants and Roots of several kinds, to be eaten _Raw_ or _Green, Blanch'd_ or _Candied_: simple--and _per se_, or intermingl'd with others according to the Season. The Boil'd, Bak'd, Pickl'd, or otherwise disguis'd, variously accommodated by the skilful Cooks, to render them grateful to the more feminine Palat, or Herbs rather for the Pot, _&c._ challenge not the name of _Sallet_ so properly here, tho' sometimes mention'd; And therefore,

Those who _Criticize_ not so nicely upon the Word, seem to distinguish the [4]_Olera_ (which were never eaten _Raw_) from _Acetaria_, which were never _Boil'd;_ and so they derive the Etymology of _Olus_, from _Olla, the Pot_. But others deduce it from [Greek: Olos], comprehending the _Universal Genus_ of the Vegetable Kingdom; as from [Greek: Pan] _Panis;_ esteeming that he who had [5]_Bread_ and _Herbs_, was sufficiently bless'd with all a frugal Man cou'd need or desire: Others again will have it, _ab Olendo_, i.e. _Crescendo_, from its continual _growth and springing up_: So the younger _Scaliger_ on _Varro_: But his Father _Julius_ extends it not so generally to all Plants, as to all the _Esculents_, according to the Text: _We call those_ Olera (says [6]_Theophrastus) which are commonly eaten_, in which sense it may be taken, to include both _Boil'd_ and _Raw_: Last of all, _ab Alendo_, as having been the Original, and genuine Food of all Mankind from the [7]Creation.

A great deal more of this Learned Stuff were to be pick'd up from the _Cumini Sectores_, and impertinently Curious; whilst as it concerns the business in hand, we are by _Sallet_ to understand a particular Composition of certain _Crude_ and fresh Herbs, such as usually are, or may safely be eaten with some _Acetous_ Juice, _Oyl, Salt_, &c. to give them a grateful Gust and _Vehicle_; exclusive of the [8][Greek: psuchrai trapezai], eaten without their due Correctives, which the Learned [9]_Salmasius_, and, indeed generally, the [10]old _Physicians_ affirm (and that truly) all _Crude_ and raw [Greek: lachana] require to render them wholsome; so as probably they were from hence, as [11]_Pliny_ thinks, call'd _Acetaria_: and not (as _Hermolaus_ and some others) _Acceptaria ab Accipiendo_; nor from Accedere, though so [12]ready at hand, and easily dress'd; requiring neither _Fire, Cost_, or _Attendance_, to boil, roast, and prepare them as did Flesh, and other Provisions; from which, and other Prerogatives, they were always in use, _&c._ And hence indeed the more frugal _Italians_ and _French_, to this Day, gather _Ogni Verdura_, any thing almost that's _Green_ and Tender, to the very Tops of _Nettles_; so as every Hedge affords a _Sallet_ (not unagreeable) season'd with its proper _Oxybaphon_ of _Vinegar, Salt, Oyl_, &c. which doubtless gives it both the Relish and Name of _Salad, Emsalada_[13], as with us of _Sallet_; from the _Sapidity_, which renders not _Plants_ and _Herbs_ alone, but _Men_ themselves, and their Conversations, pleasant and agreeable: But of this enough, and perhaps too much; least whilst I write of _Salt_ and _Sallet_, I appear my self _Insipid_: I pass therefore to the Ingredients, which we will call

Furniture _and_ Materials

The _Materials_ of _Sallets_, which together with the grosser _Olera_, consist of _Roots, Stalks, Leaves, Buds, Flowers_, &c. _Fruits_ (belonging to another Class) would require a much ampler Volume, than would suit our Kalendar, (of which this pretends to be an _Appendix_ only) should we extend the following _Catalogue_ further than to a brief enumeration only of such _Herbaceous_ Plants, _Oluscula_ and smaller _Esculents_, as are chiefly us'd in _Cold Sallets_, of whose Culture we have treated there; and as we gather them from the _Mother_ and _Genial Bed_, with a touch only of their _Qualities_, for Reasons hereafter given.

1. Alexanders, _Hipposelinum; S. Smyrnium vulgare_ (much of the nature of _Persly_) is moderately hot, and of a cleansing Faculty, Deobstructing, nourishing, and comforting the Stomach. The gentle fresh Sprouts, Buds, and Tops are to be chosen, and the Stalks eaten in the Spring; and when _Blanch'd_, in Winter likewise, with _Oyl, Pepper, Salt_, &c. by themselves, or in Composition: They make also an excellent _Vernal_ Pottage.

2. Artichaux, _Cinara_, (_Carduus Sativus_) hot and dry. The Heads being slit in quarters first eaten raw, with _Oyl_, a little _Vinegar, Salt_, and _Pepper_, gratefully recommend a Glass of _Wine_; Dr. _Muffet_ says, at the end of Meals.

They are likewise, whilst tender and small, fried in fresh _Butter_ crisp with _Persley_. But then become a most delicate and excellent Restorative, when full grown, they are boil'd the common way. The _Bottoms_ are also bak'd in _Pies_, with _Marrow, Dates_, and other rich Ingredients: In _Italy_ they sometimes broil them, and as the Scaly Leaves open, baste them with fresh and sweet _Oyl_; but with Care extraordinary, for if a drop fall upon the Coals, all is marr'd; that hazard escap'd, they eat them with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_.

The Stalk is _Blanch'd_ in Autumn, and the _Pith_ eaten raw or boil'd. The way of preserving them fresh all Winter, is by separating the _Bottoms_ from the _Leaves_, and after Parboiling, allowing to every _Bottom_, a small earthen glaz'd Pot; burying it all over in fresh melted _Butter_, as they do Wild-Fowl, _&c._ Or if more than one, in a larger Pot, in the same Bed and Covering, _Layer_ upon _Layer_.

They are also preserv'd by stringing them on Pack-thread, a clean Paper being put between every _Bottom_, to hinder them from touching one another, and so hung up in a dry place. They are likewise _Pickl'd_.

'Tis not very long since this noble _Thistle_ came first into _Italy_, Improv'd to this Magnitude by Culture; and so rare in _England_, that they were commonly sold for _Crowns_ a piece: But what _Carthage_ yearly spent in them (as _Pliny_ computes the Sum) amounted to _Sestertia Sena Millia_, 30000 _l. Sterling_.

_Note_, That the _Spanish Cardon_, a wild and smaller _Artichoak_, with sharp pointed Leaves, and lesser Head; the Stalks being _Blanch'd_ and tender, are serv'd-up _a la Poiverade_ (that is with _Oyl, Pepper_, &c.) as the _French_ term is.

3. Basil, _Ocimum_ (as _Baulm_) imparts a grateful Flavour, if not too strong, somewhat offensive to the Eyes; and therefore the tender Tops to be very sparingly us'd in our _Sallet_.

4. Baulm, _Melissa, Baum_, hot and dry, Cordial and exhilarating, sovereign for the Brain, strengthning the Memory, and powerfully chasing away _Melancholy_. The tender Leaves are us'd in Composition with other Herbs; and the Sprigs fresh gather'd, put into _Wine_ or other Drinks, during the heat of Summer, give it a marvellous quickness: This noble Plant yields an incomparable _Wine_, made as is that of _Cowslip_-Flowers.

5. Beet, _Beta_; of which there is both _Red, Black_, and _White_: The _Costa_, or Rib of the _White Beet_ (by the _French_ call'd the _Chard_) being boil'd, melts, and eats like Marrow. And the _Roots_ (especially of the _Red_) cut into thin slices, boil'd, when cold, is of it self a grateful winter _Sallet_; or being mingl'd with other _Oluscula, Oyl, Vinegar, Salt_, &c. 'Tis of quality Cold and Moist, and naturally somewhat _Laxative_: But however by the _Epigrammatist_ stil'd _Foolish_ and _Insipid, as Innocentior quam Olus_ (for so the Learned [14]_Harduin_ reads the place) 'tis by _Diphilus_ of old, and others since, preferr'd before _Cabbage_ as of better Nourishment: _Martial_ (not unlearn'd in the Art of _Sallet_) commends it with _Wine_ and _Pepper_: He names it indeed--_Fabrorum prandia_, for its being so vulgar. But eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, as usually, it is no despicable _Sallet_. There is a _Beet_ growing near the Sea, which is the most delicate of all. The Roots of the _Red Beet_, pared into thin Slices and Circles, are by the _French_ and _Italians_ contriv'd into curious Figures to adorn their _Sallets_.

_6_. Blite, _Blitum_; English _Mercury_, or (as our Country House wives call it) _All-good_, the gentle _Turiones_, and Tops may be eaten as _Sparagus_, or sodden in Pottage: There is both a white and red, much us'd in _Spain_ and _Italy_; but besides its humidity and detersive Nature, 'tis _Insipid_ enough.

7. Borrage, _Borrago_ (_Gaudia semper ago_) hot and kindly moist, purifying the Blood, is an exhilarating Cordial, of a pleasant Flavour: The tender Leaves, and Flowers especially, may be eaten in Composition; but above all, the Sprigs in _Wine_, like those of _Baum_, are of known Vertue to revive the _Hypochondriac_, and chear the hard Student. See _Bugloss_.

8. Brooklime, _Anagallis aquatica_; moderately hot and moist, prevalent in the _Scorbute_, and _Stone_.

9. Bugloss, _Buglossum_; in mature much like _Borrage_, yet something more astringent. The Flowers of both, with the intire Plant, greatly restorative, being Conserv'd: And for the rest, so much commended by _Averroes_; that for its effects, cherishing the Spirits, justly call'd _Euphrosynum_; Nay, some will have it the _Nepenthes_ of _Homer_: But indeed, what we now call _Bugloss_, was not that of the Ancients, but rather _Borrage_, for the like Virtue named _Corrago_.

Burnet, See _Pimpinella_.

10. Buds, _Gemmae, Turiones_; the first Rudiments and Tops of most _Sallet_-Plants, preferrable to all other less tender Parts; such as _Ashen-Keys, Broom-buds_, hot and dry, retaining the vertue of _Capers_, esteem'd to be very opening, and prevalent against the _Spleen_ and _Scurvy_; and being _Pickl'd_, are sprinkl'd among the _Sallets_, or eaten by themselves.

11. Cabbage, _Brassica_ (and its several kinds) _Pompey's_ beloved Dish, so highly celebrated by old [15]_Cato_, _Pythagoras_, and _Chrysippus_ the Physician (as the only _Panacea_) is not so generally magnify'd by the rest of Doctors, as affording but a crass and melancholy Juice; yet _Loosening_ if but moderately boil'd, if over-much, _Astringent_, according to _C. Celsus_; and therefore seldom eaten raw, excepting by the _Dutch_. The _Cymae_, or Sprouts rather of the _Cole_ are very delicate, so boil'd as to retain their Verdure and green Colour. In raising this _Plant_ great care is to be had of the Seed. The best comes from _Denmark_ and _Russia_, especially the _Cauly-flower_, (anciently unknown) or from _Aleppo_. Of the _French_, the _Pancaliere a la large Coste_, the white, large and ponderous are to be chosen; and so the _Cauly-flower_: After boiling some steep them in Milk, and seethe them again in Beef-Broth: Of old they added a little _Nitre_. The _Broccoli_ from _Naples_, perhaps the _Halmyridia_ of _Pliny_ (or _Athenaeus_ rather) _Capiata marina_ & _florida_, our _Sea-keele_ (the ancient _Crambe_) and growing on our Coast, are very delicate, as are the _Savoys_, commended for being not so rank, but agreeable to most _Palates_, and of better Nourishment: In general, _Cabbages_ are thought to allay Fumes, and prevent Intoxication: But some will have them noxious to the Sight; others impute it to the _Cauly-flower_ rather: But whilst the Learned are not agreed about it, _Theophrastus_ affirms the contrary, and _Pliny_ commends the Juice raw, with a little _Honey_, for the moist and weeping Eye, not the dry or dull. But after all, _Cabbage_ ('tis confess'd) is greatly accus'd for lying undigested in the Stomach, and provoking Eructations; which makes me wonder at the Veneration we read the Ancients had for them, calling them _Divine_, and Swearing, _per Brassicam_. 'Tis scarce an hundred Years since we first had _Cabbages_ out of _Holland_. Sir _Anth. Ashley_ of _Wiburg St. Giles_ in _Dorsetshire_, being (as I am told) the first who planted them in _England_.

12. Cardon, See _Artichaux_.

13. Carrots, _Dauci_, or _Pastinaca Sativa_; temperately warm and dry, Spicy; the best are yellow, very nourishing; let them be rais'd in Ground naturally rich, but not too heavy.

14. Chervile, _Chaerophyllum, Myrrhis_; The sweet aromatick _Spanish Chervile_, moderately hot and dry: The tender _Cimae_, and Tops, with other Herbs, are never to be wanting in our _Sallets_, (as long as they may be had) being exceedingly wholsome and chearing the Spirits: The _Roots_ are also boil'd and eaten Cold; much commended for Aged Persons: This (as likewise _Spinach_) is us'd in _Tarts_, and serves alone for divers Sauces.

Cibbols. \
Cives. / Vide Onions, _Schoenopraesson_.

15. Clary, _Horminum_, when tender not to be rejected, and in _Omlets_, made up with _Cream_, fried in sweet _Butter_, are eaten with _Sugar_, Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_.

16. Clavers, _Aparine_; the tender Winders, with young _Nettle-Tops_, are us'd in _Lenten_ Pottages.

17. Corn-sallet, _Valerianella_; loos'ning and refreshing: The Tops and Leaves are a _Sallet_ of themselves, seasonably eaten with other Salleting, the whole Winter long, and early Spring: The _French_ call them _Salad de Preter_, for their being generally eaten in _Lent_.

18. Cowslips, _Paralysis_: See _Flowers_.

19. Cresses, _Nasturtium_, Garden _Cresses_; to be monthly sown: But above all the _Indian_, moderately hot, and aromatick, quicken the torpent Spirits, and purge the Brain, and are of singular effect against the _Scorbute_. Both the tender Leaves, _Calices, Cappuchin Capers_, and _Flowers_, are laudably mixed with the colder Plants. The _Buds_ being Candy'd, are likewise us'd in Strewings all Winter. There is the _Nastur. Hybernicum_ commended also, and the vulgar _Water-Cress_, proper in the Spring, all of the same Nature, tho' of different Degrees, and best for raw and cold Stomachs, but nourish little.

20. Cucumber, _Cucumis_; tho' very cold and moist, the most approved _Sallet_ alone, or in Composition, of all the _Vinaigrets_, to sharpen the Appetite, and cool the Liver, [16]_&c._ if rightly prepar'd; that is, by rectifying the vulgar Mistake of altogether extracting the Juice, in which it should rather be soak'd: Nor ought it to be over _Oyl'd_, too much abating of its grateful _Acidity_, and _palling_ the Taste from a contrariety of Particles: Let them therefore be pared, and cut in thin Slices, with a _Clove_ or two of _Onion_ to correct the Crudity, macerated in the Juice, often turn'd and moderately drain'd. Others prepare them, by shaking the Slices between two Dishes, and dress them with very little _Oyl_, well beaten, and mingled with the Juice of _Limon, Orange_, or _Vinegar, Salt_ and _Pepper_. Some again, (and indeed the most approv'd) eat them as soon as they are cut, retaining their Liquor, which being exhausted (by the former Method) have nothing remaining in them to help the Concoction. Of old they [17]boil'd the _Cucumber_, and paring off the Rind, eat them with _Oyl, Vinegar_, and _Honey_; _Sugar_ not being so well known. Lastly, the _Pulp_ in Broth is greatly refreshing, and may be mingl'd in most _Sallets_, without the least damage, contrary to the common Opinion; it not being long, since _Cucumber_, however dress'd, was thought fit to be thrown away, being accounted little better than Poyson. _Tavernier_ tells us, that in the _Levant_, if a Child cry for something to Eat, they give it a raw _Cucumber_ instead of _Bread_. The young ones may be boil'd in White-Wine. The smaller sort (known by the name of _Gerckems_) muriated with the Seeds of _Dill_, and the _Mango_ Pickle are for the Winter.

21. Daisy, _Buphthalmum_, Ox-Eye, or _Bellis-major_: The young _Roots_ are frequently eaten by the _Spaniards_ and _Italians_ all the Spring till _June_.

22. Dandelion, _Dens Leonis, Condrilla_: Macerated in several Waters, to extract the bitterness; tho' somewhat opening, is very wholsome, and little inferior to _Succory, Endive_, &c. The _French_ Country-People eat the Roots; and 'twas with this homely _Sallet_, the Good-Wife _Hecate_ entertain'd _Theseus_. See _Sowthistle_.

23. Dock, _Oxylapathum_, or sharp-pointed Dock: Emollient, and tho' otherwise not for our _Sallet_, the _Roots_ brewed in _Ale_ or _Beer_, are excellent for the _Scorbute_.

Earth-Nuts, _Bulbo-Castanum_; (found in divers places of _Surry_, near _Kingston_, and other parts) the Rind par'd off, are eaten crude by Rustics, with a little _Pepper_; but are best boil'd like other Roots, or in Pottage rather, and are sweet and nourishing.

24. Elder, _Sambucus_; The Flowers infus'd in _Vinegar_, grateful both to the Stomach and Taste; attenuate thick and viscid Humours; and tho' the Leaves are somewhat rank of Smell, and so not commendable in _Sallet_; they are otherwise (as indeed is the intire Shrub) of the most sovereign Vertue; and the spring Buds and tender Leaves, excellently wholsome in Pottage at that Season of the Year. See _Flowers_.

25. Endive, _Endivium, Intubum Sativum_; the largest, whitest, and tenderest Leaves best boil'd, and less crude. It is naturally Cold, profitable for hot Stomachs; _Incisive_ and opening Obstructions of the Liver: The curled is more delicate, being eaten alone, or in Composition, with the usual _Intinctus_: It is also excellent being boil'd; the middle part of the Blanch'd-Stalk separated, eats firm, and the ampler Leaves by many perferr'd before _Lettuce_. See _Succory_.

Eschalot. See _Onions_.

26. Fennel, _Foeniculum_: The sweetest of _Bolognia_: Aromatick, hot, and dry; expels Wind, sharpens the Sight, and recreates the Brain; especially the tender _Umbella_ and Seed-Pods. The Stalks are to be peel'd when young, and then dress'd like _Sellery_. The tender Tufts and Leaves emerging, being minc'd, are eaten alone with _Vinegar_, or _Oyl_, and _Pepper_, and to correct the colder Materials, enter properly into Composition. The _Italians_ eat the blanch'd Stalk (which they call _Cartucci_) all Winter long. There is a very small _Green-Worm_, which sometimes lodges in the Stemm of this Plant, which is to be taken out, as the _Red_ one in that of _Sellery_.

27. Flowers, _Flores_; chiefly of the _Aromatick Esculents_ and Plants are preferrable, as generally endow'd with the Vertues of their _Simples_, in a more intense degree; and may therefore be eaten alone in their proper _Vehicles_, or Composition with other _Salleting_, sprinkl'd among them; But give a more palatable Relish, being Infus'd in _Vinegar_; Especially those of the _Clove-Gillyflower, Elder, Orange, Cowslip, Rosemary, Arch-Angel, Sage, Nasturtium Indicum_, &c. Some of them are Pickl'd, and divers of them make also very pleasant and wholsome _Theas_, as do likewise the Wild _Time, Bugloss, Mint_, &c.

28. Garlick, _Allium_; dry towards Excess; and tho' both by _Spaniards_ and _Italians_, and the more Southern People, familiarly eaten, with almost every thing, and esteem'd of such sigular Vertue to help Conception, and thought a Charm against all Infection and Poyson (by which it has obtain'd the Name of the _Country-man's Theriacle_) we yet think it more proper for our Northern Rustics, especially living in _Uliginous_ and moist places, or such as use the _Sea_: Whilst we absolutely forbid it entrance into our _Salleting_, by reason of its intolerable Rankness, and which made it so detested of old; that the eating of it was (as we read) part of the Punishment for such as had committed the horrid'st Crimes. To be sure, 'tis not for Ladies Palats, nor those who court them, farther than to permit a light touch on the Dish, with a _Clove_ thereof, much better supply'd by the gentler _Roccombo_.

_Note_, That in _Spain_ they sometimes eat it boil'd, which taming its fierceness, turns it into Nourishment, or rather _Medicine_.

Ginny-Pepper, _Capsicum_. See _Pepper_.

29. Goats-beard, _Trago-pogon:_ The _Root_ is excellent even in _Sallet_, and very Nutritive, exceeding profitable for the Breast, and may be stew'd and dress'd as _Scorzonera_.

30. Hops, _Lupulus_: Hot and moist, rather _Medicinal_, than fit for _Sallet_; the _Buds_ and young _Tendrels_ excepted, which may be eaten raw; but more conveniently being boil'd, and cold like _Asparagus_: They are _Diuretic_; depurate the Blood, and open Obstructions.

31. Hyssop, _Hyssopus; Thymus Capitatus Creticus; Majoran, Mary-gold_, &c. as all hot, spicy _Aromatics_, (commonly growing in _Kitchin-Gardens_) are of Faculty to Comfort, and strengthen; prevalent against Melancoly and Phlegm; Plants, like these, going under the Names of _Pot Herbs_, are much more proper for _Broths_ and _Decoctions_, than the tender _Sallet_: Yet the _Tops_ and _Flowers_ reduc'd to Powder, are by some reserv'd for Strewings, upon the colder Ingredients; communicating no ungrateful Fragrancy.

32. Jack-by-the-Hedge, _Alliaria_, or _Sauce-alone_; has many Medicinal Properties, and is eaten as other _Sallets_, especially by Country People, growing wild under their Banks and Hedges.

33. Leeks, and _Cibbols, Porrum_; hot, and of Vertue Prolifick, since _Latona_, the Mother of _Appolo_ long'd after them: The _Welch_, who eat them much, are observ'd to be very fruitful: They are also friendly to the Lungs and Stomach, being sod in Milk; a few therefore of the slender and green Summities, a little shred, do not amiss in Composition. See _Onion_.

34. Lettuce, _Lactuca_: Tho' by _Metaphor_ call'd [18]_Mortuorum Cibi_, (to say nothing of [19]_Adonis_ and his sad _Mistriss_) by reason of its _Soporiferous_ quality, ever was, and still continues the principal Foundation of the universal _Tribe_ of _Sallets_; which is to Cool and Refresh, besides its other Properties: And therefore in such high esteem with the Ancients; that divers of the _Valerian_ Family, dignify'd and enobled their Name with that of _Lactucinii_.

It is indeed of Nature more cold and moist than any of the rest; yet less astringent, and so harmless that it may safely be eaten raw in Fevers; for it allays Heat, bridles Choler, extinguishes Thirst, excites Appetite, kindly Nourishes, and above all represses Vapours, conciliates Sleep, mitigates Pain; besides the effect it has upon the Morals, _Temperance_ and _Chastity_. Galen (whose beloved _Sallet_ it was) from its _pinguid, subdulcid_ and agreeable Nature, says it breeds the most laudable Blood. No marvel then that they were by the Ancients called _Sana_, by way of eminency, and so highly valu'd by the great [20]_Augustus_, that attributing his Recovery of a dangerous Sickness to them, 'tis reported, he erected a _Statue_, and built an _Altar_ to this noble Plant. And that the most abstemious and excellent Emperor [21]_Tacitus_ (spending almost nothing at his frugal Table in other Dainties) was yet so great a Friend to _Lettuce_, that he was us'd to say of his Prodigality, _Somnum se mercari illa sumptus effusione_. How it was celebrated by _Galen_ we have heard; how he us'd it he tells himself; namely, beginning with _Lettuce_ in his younger Days, and concluding with it when he grew old, and that to his great advantage. In a word, we meet with nothing among all our crude Materials and _Sallet_ store, so proper to mingle with any of the rest, nor so wholsome to be eaten alone, or in Composition, moderately, and with the usual _Oxeloeum_ of _Vinegar, Pepper_, and _Oyl_, &c. which last does not so perfectly agree with the _Alphange_, to which the Juice of _Orange_, or _Limon_ and _Sugar_ is more desirable: _Aristoxenus_ is reported to have irrigated his _Lettuce_-Beds with an _Oinomelite_, or mixture of _Wine_ and _Honey_: And certainly 'tis not for nothing that our Garden-Lovers, and _Brothers of the Sallet_, have been so exceedingly Industrious to cultivate this Noble Plant, and multiply its _Species_; for to name a few in present use: We have the _Alphange_ of _Montpelier_, crisp and delicate; the _Arabic; Ambervelleres; Belgrade, Cabbage, Capuchin, Coss-Lettuce, Curl'd_; the _Genoa_ (lasting all the Winter) the _Imperial, Lambs_, or _Agnine_, and _Lobbs_ or _Lop-Lettuces_. The _French Minion_ a dwarf kind: The _Oak-Leaf, Passion, Roman, Shell_, and _Silesian_, hard and crimp (esteemed of the best and rarest) with divers more: And here let it be noted, that besides three or four sorts of this Plant, and some few of the rest, there was within our remembrance, rarely any other _Salleting_ serv'd up to the best Tables; with unblanch'd _Endive, Succory, Purselan_, (and indeed little other variety) _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_ being the constant _Vehicles_ (without _Oyl_) but now _Sugar_ is almost wholly banish'd from all, except the more effeminate Palates, as too much palling, and taking from the grateful _Acid_ now in use, tho' otherwise not totally to be reproved: _Lettuce_ boil'd and _Condited_ is sometimes spoken of.

35. Limon, _Limonia, citrea mala_; exceedingly refreshing, _Cordial_, &c. The Pulp being blended with the Juice, secluding the over-sweet or bitter. See _Orange_.

36. Mallow, _Malva_; the curl'd, emollient, and friendly to the _Ventricle_, and so rather Medicinal; yet may the Tops, well boil'd, be admitted, and the rest (tho' out of use at present) was taken by the Poets for all _Sallets_ in general. _Pythagoras_ held _Malvae folium Sanctisimum_; and we find _Epimenides_ in [22]Plato at his _Mallows_ and _Asphodel_; and indeed it was of old the first Dish at Table: The _Romans_ had it also _in deliciis_, [23]_Malvae salubres corpori_, approved by [24]_Galen_ and [25]_Dioscorides_; namely the _Garden-Mallow_, by others the _Wild_; but I think both proper rather for the _Pot_, than _Sallet_. _Nonius_ supposes the tall _Rosea, Arborescent Holi-hocks_, that bears the broad Flower, for the best, and very [26]_Laxative_; but by reason of their clamminess and _Lentor_, banished from our _Sallet_, tho' by some commended and eaten with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, and some with _Butter_.

Mercury, _Bonus Henricus_, English Mercury, or _Lapathum Unctuosum_. See _Blitum_.

37. Melon, _Melo_; to have been reckon'd rather among _Fruits_; and tho' an usual Ingredient in our _Sallet_; yet for its transcendent delicacy and flavor, cooling and exhilarating Nature (if sweet, dry, weighty, and well-fed) not only superior all the _Gourd_-kind, but Paragon with the noblest Productions of the Garden. _Jos. Scaliger_ and _Casaubon_, think our _Melon_ unknown to the Ancients, (which others contradict) as yet under the name of _Cucumers_: But he who reads how artificially they were Cultivated, rais'd under Glasses, and expos'd to the hot Sun, (for _Tiberius_) cannot well doubt of their being the same with ours.

There is also a _Winter-Melon_, large and with black Seeds, exceedingly Cooling, brought us from abroad, and the hotter Climates, where they drink _Water_ after eating _Melons_; but in the colder (after all dispute) _Wine_ is judg'd the better: That it has indeed by some been accus'd as apt to corrupt in the Stomach (as do all things else eaten in excess) is not deny'd: But a perfect good _Melon_ is certainly as harmless a Fruit as any whatsoever; and may safely be mingl'd with _Sallet_, in Pulp or Slices, or more properly eaten by it self, with a little _Salt_ and _Pepper_; for a _Melon_ which requires _Sugar_ to commend it, wants of Perfection. _Note_, That this Fruit was very rarely cultivated in _England_, so as to bring it to Maturity, till Sir _Geo. Gardner_ came out of _Spain_. I my self remembring, when an ordinary _Melon_ would have been sold for five or six Shillings. The small unripe Fruit, when the others are past, may be Pickl'd with _Mango_, and are very delicate.

38. Mint, _Mentha_; the _Angustifolia Spicata_, Spear-Mint; dry and warm, very fragrant, a little press'd, is friendly to the weak Stomach, and powerful against all _Nervous_ Crudities: The gentler Tops of the _Orange-Mint_, enter well into our Composition, or are grateful alone (as are also the other sorts) with the Juice of _Orange_, and a little _Sugar_.