Chapter II: Front Matter (2)

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39. Mushroms, _Fungi_; By the [27]Orator call'd _Terrae_, by _Porphyry Deorum filii_, without Seed (as produc'd by the Midwifry of _Autumnal_ Thunder-Storms, portending the Mischief they cause) by the _French, Champignons_, with all the Species of the _Boletus_, &c. for being, as some hold, neither _Root, Herb, Flower_, nor _Fruit_, nor to be eaten crude; should be therefore banish'd entry into our _Sallet_, were I to order the Composition; however so highly contended for by many, as the very principal and top of all the rest; whilst I think them tolerable only (at least in this _Climate_) if being fresh and skilfully chosen, they are accommodated with the nicest Care and Circumspection; generally reported to have something malignant and noxious in them: Nor without cause; from the many sad Examples, frequent Mischiefs, and funest Accidents they have produc'd, not only to particular Persons, but whole Families: Exalted indeed they were to the second Course of the _Caesarian Tables_, with the noble Title [Greek: Broma theon], a Dainty fit for the _Gods_ alone; to whom they sent the Emperor [28]_Claudius_, as they have many since, to the other World. But he that reads how [29]_Seneca_ deplores his lost Friend, that brave Commander _Annaeus Serenus_, and several other gallant Persons with him, who all of them perish'd at the same Repast; would be apt to ask with the [30]_Naturalist_ (speaking of this suspicious Dainty) _Quae voluptas tanta ancipitis cibi_? and who indeed would hazard it? So true is that of the Poet; He that eats _Mushroms_, many time _Nil amplius edit_, eats no more perhaps all his Life after. What other deterring _Epithets_ are given for our Caution, [Greek: Bare pnigoenta muketon], _heavy_ and _choaking_. (_Athenaeus_ reporting of the Poet _Euripides's_, finding a Woman and her three Children strangl'd by eating of them) one would think sufficient warning.

Among these comes in the _Fungus Reticularis_, to be found about _London_, as at _Fulham_ and other places; whilst at no small charge we send for them into _France_; as we also do for _Trufles_, _Pig-nuts_, and other subterraneous _Tubera_, which in _Italy_ they fry in Oyl, and eat with _Pepper_: They are commonly discovered by a _Nasute Swine_ purposely brought up; being of a Chessnut Colour, and heady Smell, and not seldom found in _England_, particularly in a Park of my Lord _Cotton's_ at _Rushton_ or _Rusbery_ in _Northampton_-shire, and doubtless in other [31]places too were they sought after. How these rank and provocative Excrescences are to be [32]treated (of themselves insipid enough, and only famous for their kindly taking any Pickle or _Conditure_) that they may do the less Mischief we might here set down. But since there be so many ways of Dressing them, that I can incourage none to use them, for Reasons given (besides that they do not at all concern our safer and innocent _Sallet_ Furniture) I forbear it; and referr those who long after this beloved _Ragout_, and other _Voluptuaria Venena_ (as _Seneca_ calls them) to what our Learned Dr. _Lyster_[33] says of the many Venomous _Insects_ harbouring and corrupting in a new found-out Species of _Mushroms_ had lately in deliciis. Those, in the mean time, which are esteemed best, and less pernicious, (of which see the _Appendix_) are such as rise in rich, airy, and dry [34]Pasture-Grounds; growing on the Staff or _Pedicule_ of about an Inch thick and high; moderately Swelling (_Target_-like) round and firm, being underneath of a pale saffronish hue, curiously radiated in parallel Lines and Edges, which becoming either Yellow, Orange, or Black, are to be rejected: But besides what the Harvest-Months produce, they are likewise rais'd [35]Artificially; as at _Naples_ in their Wine-Cellars, upon an heap of rank Earth, heaped upon a certain supposed _Stone_, but in truth, (as the curious and noble [36]_Peiresky_ tells us, he found to be) nothing but an heap of old _Fungus_'s, reduc'd and compacted to a stony hardness, upon which they lay Earth, and sprinkle it with warm Water, in which _Mushroms_ have been steeped. And in _France_, by making an hot Bed of _Asses_-Dung, and when the heat is in Temper, watering it (as above) well impregnated with the Parings and Offals of refuse _Fungus_'s; and such a Bed will last two or three Years, and sometimes our common _Melon_-Beds afford them, besides other Experiments.

40. Mustard, _Sinapi_; exceeding hot and _mordicant_, not only in the Seed but Leaf also; especially in _Seedling_ young Plants, like those of _Radishes_ (newly peeping out of the Bed) is of incomparable effect to quicken and revive the Spirits; strengthening the Memory, expelling heaviness, preventing the Vertiginous Palsie, and is a laudable _Cephalick_. Besides it is an approv'd _Antiscorbutick_; aids Concoction, cuts and dissipates Phlegmatick Humours. In short, 'tis the most noble _Embamma_, and so necessary an Ingredient to all cold and raw _Salleting_, that it is very rarely, if at all, to be left out. In _Italy_ in making _Mustard_, they mingle _Limon_ and _Orange-Peel_, with the Seeds. How the best is made, see hereafter.

_Nasturtium Indicum_. See _Cresses_.

41. Nettles, _Urtica_; Hot, dry, _Diuretic, Solvent_; purifies the Blood: The Buds, and very tender _Cimae_, a little bruised, are by some eaten raw, by others boil'd, especially in _Spring-Pottage_, with other Herbs.

42. Onion, _Cepa_, _Porrum_; the best are such as are brought us out of _Spain_, whence they of St. _Omers_ had them, and some that have weigh'd eight Pounds. Choose therefore the large, round, white, and thin Skin'd. Being eaten crude and alone with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Pepper_, we own them in _Sallet_, not so hot as _Garlick_, nor at all so rank: Boil'd, they give a kindly relish; raise Appetite, corroborate the Stomach, cut Phlegm, and profit the _Asthmatical_: But eaten in excess, are said to offend the Head and Eyes, unless _Edulcorated_ with a gentle maceration. In the mean time, as to their being noxious to the Sight, is imputable only to the Vapour rising from the raw Onion, when peeled, which some commend for its purging and quickning that Sense. How they are us'd in Pottage, boil'd in Milk, stew'd, &c. concerns the Kitchin. In our cold _Sallet_ we supply them with the _Porrum Sectile_, Tops of _Leeks_, and _Eschalots_ (_Ascalonia_) of gust more exalted, yet not to the degree of _Garlick_. Or (by what of later use is much preferr'd) with a _Seed_ or two of _Raccombo_, of a yet milder and delicate nature, which by rubbing the Dish only, imparts its Vertue agreeably enough. In _Italy_ they frequently make a _Sallet_ of _Scalions_, _Cives_, and _Chibbols_ only season'd with _Oyl_ and _Pepper_; and an honest laborious Country-man, with good _Bread_, _Salt_, and a little _Parsley_, will make a contented Meal with a roasted _Onion_. How this noble _Bulb_ was deified in [37]_Egypt_ we are told, and that whilst they were building the _Pyramids_, there was spent in this Root [38]_Ninety Tun_ of _Gold_ among the Workmen. So lushious and tempting it seems they were, that as whole Nations have subsisted on them alone; so the _Israelites_ were ready to return to _Slavery_ and _Brick-making_ for the love of them. Indeed _Hecamedes_ we find presents them to _Patroclus_, in _Homer_, as a _Regalo_; But certainly we are either mistaken in the _Species_ (which some will have to be _Melons_) or use _Poetick_ Licence, when we so highly magnify them.

43. Orach, _Atriplex_: Is cooling, allays the _Pituit_ Humor: Being set over the Fire, neither _this_, nor _Lettuce_, needs any other Water than their own moisture to boil them in, without Expression: The tender Leaves are mingl'd with other cold _Salleting_; but 'tis better in Pottage. See _Blitum_.

44. Orange, _Arantiae_ (_Malum aureum_) Moderately dry, cooling, and incisive; sharpens Appetite, exceedingly refreshes and resists Putrefaction: We speak of the _Sub acid_; the sweet and bitter _Orange_ being of no use in our _Sallet_. The _Limon_ is somewhat more acute, cooling and extinguishing Thirst; of all the [Greek: Oxubapha] the best _succedaneum_ to _Vinegar_. The very Spoils and Rinds of _Orange_ and _Limon_ being shred and sprinkl'd among the other Herbs, correct the Acrimony. But they are the tender _Seedlings_ from the _Hot-Bed_, which impart an _Aromatic_ exceedingly grateful to the Stomach. _Vide_ Limon.

45. Parsnep, _Pastinaca_, Carrot: first boil'd, being cold, is of it self a Winter-_Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, &c. and having something of Spicy, is by some, thought more nourishing than the _Turnep_.

46. Pease, _Pisum_: the Pod of the _Sugar-Pease_, when first beginning to appear, with the _Husk_ and _Tendrels_, affording a pretty _Acid_, enter into the Composition, as do those of _Hops_ and the _Vine_.

47. Peper, _Piper_, hot and dry in a high degree; of approv'd Vertue against all flatulency proceeding from cold and phlegmatic Constitutions, and generally all Crudities whatsoever; and therefore for being of universal use to correct and temper the cooler Herbs, and such as abound in moisture; It is a never to be omitted Ingredient of our _Sallets_; provided it be not too minutely beaten (as oft we find it) to an almost impalpable Dust, which is very pernicious and frequently adheres and sticks in the folds of the Stomach, where, instead of promoting Concoction, it often causes a _Cardialgium_, and fires the Blood: It should therefore be grosly contus'd only.

_Indian Capsicum_, superlatively hot and burning, is yet by the _Africans_ eaten with _Salt_ and _Vinegar_ by it self, as an usual Condiment; but wou'd be of dangerous consequence with us; being so much more of an acrimonious and terribly biting quality, which by Art and Mixture is notwithstanding render'd not only safe, but very agreeable in our _Sallet_.

Take the _Pods_, and dry them well in a Pan; and when they are become sufficiently hard, cut them into small pieces, and stamp 'em in a Mortar to dust: To each Ounce of which add a Pound of _Wheat-flour_, fermented with a little _Levain_: Kneed and make them into Cakes or Loaves cut long-wise, in shape of _Naples-Biscuit_. These Re-bake a second time, till they are Stone-hard: Pound them again as before, and ferce it through a fine Sieve, for a very proper Seasoning, instead of vulgar _Peper_. The Mordicancy thus allay'd, be sure to make the Mortar very clean, after having beaten _Indian Capsicum_, before you stamp any thing in it else. The green Husks, or first peeping Buds of the _Walnut-Tree_, dry'd to Powder, serve for _Peper_ in some places, and so do _Myrtle-berries_.

48. Persley, _Petroselinum_, or _Apium hortense_; being hot and dry, opens Obstructions, is very _Diuretic_, yet nourishing, _edulcorated_ in shifted warm Water (the Roots especially) but of less Vertue than _Alexanders_; nor so convenient in our crude _Sallet_, as when decocted on a Medicinal Account. Some few tops of the tender Leaves may yet be admitted; tho' it was of old, we read, never brought to the Table at all, as sacred to _Oblivium_ and the _Defunct_. In the mean time, there being nothing more proper for Stuffing, (_Farces_) and other _Sauces_, we consign it to the _Olitories_. _Note_, that Persley is not so hurtful to the Eyes as is reported. See _Sellery_.

49. Pimpernel, _Pimpinella_; eaten by the _French_ and _Italians_, is our common _Burnet_; of so chearing and exhilarating a quality, and so generally commended, as (giving it admittance into all _Sallets_) 'tis pass'd into a Proverb:

_L'Insalata non e buon, ne bella_
_Ove non e la Pimpinella_.

But a fresh sprig in _Wine_, recommends it to us as its most genuine Element.

50. Purslain, _Portulaca_; especially the _Golden_ whilst tender, next the Seed-leaves, with the young Stalks, being eminently moist and cooling, quickens Appetite, asswages Thirst, and is very profitable for hot and _Bilious_ Tempers, as well as _Sanguine_, and generally entertain'd in all our _Sallets_, mingled with the hotter Herbs: Tis likewise familiarly eaten alone with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_; but with moderation, as having been sometimes found to corrupt in the Stomach, which being _Pickl'd_ 'tis not so apt to do. Some eat it cold, after it has been boil'd, which Dr. _Muffet_ would have in _Wine_, for Nourishment.

The Shrub _Halimus_, is a sort of _Sea-Purslain_: The newly peeping Leaves (tho' rarely us'd) afford a no unpleasant _Acidule_, even during winter, if it prove not too severe.

_Purslain_ is accus'd for being hurtful to the _Teeth_, if too much eaten.

51. Radish, _Raphanus_. Albeit rather Medicinal, than so commendably accompanying our _Sallets_ (wherein they often slice the larger Roots) are much inferior to the young Seedling Leaves and Roots; raised on the [39]Monthly _Hot-Bed_, almost the whole Year round, affording a very grateful mordacity, and sufficiently attempers the cooler Ingredients: The bigger Roots (so much desir'd) should be such as being transparent, eat short and quick, without stringiness, and not too biting. These are eaten alone with _Salt_ only, as carrying their _Peper_ in them; and were indeed by _Dioscorides_ and _Pliny_ celebrated above all Roots whatsoever; insomuch as in the _Delphic_ Temple, there was _Raphanus ex auro dicatus_, a Radish of solid Gold; and 'tis said of _Moschius_, that he wrote a whole Volume in their praise. Notwithstanding all which, I am sure, the great [40]_Hippocrates_ utterly condemns them, as _Vitiosoe, innatantes ac aegre concoctiles_. And the _Naturalist_ calls it _Cibus Illiberalis_, fitter for _Rustics_ than _Gentlemens_ Tables. And indeed (besides that they decay the Teeth) experience tells us, that as the Prince of _Physicians_ writes, It is hard of Digestion, _Inimicous_ to the Stomach, causing nauseous Eructations, and sometimes Vomiting, tho' otherwise _Diuretic_, and thought to repel the Vapours of _Wine_, when the _Wits_ were at their genial _Club_. _Dioscorides_ and [41]_Galen_ differ about their Eating; One prescribes it before Meals, the latter for after. Some macerate the young Roots in warm milk, to render them more _Nourishing_.

There is a _Raphanus rusticanus_, the _Spanish_ black _Horse Radish_, of a hotter quality, and not so friendly to the Head; but a notable _Antiscorbutic_, which may be eaten all the Winter, and on that account an excellent Ingredient in the Composition of _Mustard_; as are also the thin Shavings, mingled with our cold Herbs. And now before I have done with this Root, for an excellent and universal _Condiment_. Take _Horse-Radish_, whilst newly drawn out of the Earth, otherwise laid to steep in Water a competent time; then _grate_ it on a _Grater_ which has no bottom, that so it may pass thro', like a Mucilage, into a Dish of Earthen Ware: This temper'd with _Vinegar_, in which a little _Sugar_ has been dissolv'd, you have a _Sauce_ supplying _Mustard_ to the _Sallet_, and serving likewise for any Dish besides.

52. Rampion, _Rapunculus_, or the _Esculent Campanula_: The tender Roots eaten in the Spring, like those of _Radishes_, but much more Nourishing.

53. Rocket, _Eruca Spanish_; hot and dry, to be qualified with _Lettuce_, _Purcelain_, and the rest, &c. See _Tarragon_.

Roccombo. See _Onions_.

54. Rosemary, _Rosmarinus_; Soverainly _Cephalic_, and for the _Memory_, _Sight_, and _Nerves_, incomparable: And tho' not us'd in the Leaf with our _Sallet_ furniture, yet the _Flowers_, a little bitter, are always welcome in _Vinegar_; but above all, a fresh Sprig or two in a Glass of _Wine_. See _Flowers_.

55. Sage, _Salvia_; hot and dry. The tops of the _Red_, well pick'd and wash'd (being often defil'd with Venomous Slime, and almost imperceptible _Insects_) with the _Flowers_, retain all the noble Properties of the other hot Plants; more especially for the _Head_, _Memory_, _Eyes_, and all _Paralytical_ Affections. In short, 'tis a Plant endu'd with so many and wonderful Properties, as that the assiduous use of it is said to render Men _Immortal_: We cannot therefore but allow the tender _Summities_ of the young Leaves; but principally the _Flowers_ in our cold _Sallet_; yet so as not to domineer.

Salsifax, _Scorzonera_. See _Vipergrass_.

56. Sampier, _Crithmum_: That growing on the Sea-Cliffs (as about _Dover_, &c.) not only _Pickl'd_, but crude and cold, when young and tender (and such as we may Cultivate, and have in our _Kitchin-Gardens_, almost the Year round) is in my Opinion, for its _Aromatic_, and other excellent Vertues and Effects against the _Spleen_, Cleansing the Passages, sharpning Appetite, &c. so far preferrable to most of our hotter Herbs, and _Sallet_-Ingredients, that I have long wonder'd, it has not been long since propagated in the _Potagere_, as it is in _France_; from whence I have often receiv'd the Seeds, which have prosper'd better, and more kindly with me, than what comes from our own Coasts: It does not indeed _Pickle_ so well, as being of a more tender Stalk and Leaf: But in all other respects for composing _Sallets_, it has nothing like it.

57. Scalions, _Ascalonia_, _Cepae_; The _French_ call them _Appetites_, which it notably quickens and stirs up: Corrects Crudities, and promotes Concoction. The _Italians_ steep them in Water, mince, and eat them cold with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.

58. Scurvy-grass, _Cochlearia_, of the Garden, but especially that of the Sea, is sharp, biting, and hot; of Nature like _Nasturtium_, prevalent in the _Scorbute_. A few of the tender Leaves may be admitted in our Composition. See _Nasturtium Indicum_.

59. Sellery, _Apium Italicum_, (and of the _Petroseline_ Family) was formerly a stranger with us (nor very long since in _Italy_) is an hot and more generous sort of _Macedonian Persley_, or _Smallage_. The tender Leaves of the _Blancht_ Stalk do well in our _Sallet_, as likewise the slices of the whiten'd Stems, which being crimp and short, first peel'd and slit long wise, are eaten with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; and for its high and grateful Taste, is ever plac'd in the middle of the _Grand Sallet_, at our Great Mens Tables, and _Praetors_ Feasts, as the Grace of the whole Board. _Caution_ is to be given of a small red _Worm_, often lurking in these Stalks, as does the green in _Fennil_.

Shallots. See _Onion_.

60. Skirrets, _Sisarum_; hot and moist, corroborating, and good for the Stomach, exceedingly nourishing, wholsome and delicate; of all the _Root-kind_, not subject to be Windy, and so valued by the Emperor _Tiberius_, that he accepted them for Tribute.

This excellent Root is seldom eaten raw; but being boil'd, stew'd, roasted under the Embers, bak'd in Pies, whole, sliced, or in pulp, is very acceptable to all Palates. 'Tis reported they were heretofore something bitter; See what Culture and Education effects!

61. Sorrel, _Acetosa_: of which there are divers kinds. The _French Acetocella_, with the round Leaf, growing plentifully in the _North_ of _England_; _Roman Oxalis_; the broad _German_, &c. but the best is of _Green-Land:_ by nature cold, Abstersive, Acid, sharpning Appetite, asswages Heat, cools the Liver, strengthens the Heart; is an _Antiscorbutic_, resisting Putrefaction, and imparting so grateful a quickness to the rest, as supplies the want of _Orange_, _Limon_, and other _Omphacia_, and therefore never to be excluded. Vide _Wood-Sorrel_.

62. Sow-thistle, _Sonchus_; of the _Intybus_-kind. _Galen_ was us'd to eat it as _Lettuce_; exceedingly welcome to the late _Morocco._ Ambassador and his Retinue.

63. Sparagus, _Asparagus_ (_ab Asperitate_) temperately hot, and moist; _Cordial_, _Diuretic_, easie of Digestion, and next to _Flesh_, nothing more nourishing, as _Sim. Sethius_, an excellent Physician holds. They are sometimes, but very seldom, eaten raw with _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; but with more delicacy (the bitterness first exhausted) being so speedily boil'd, as not to lose the _verdure_ and agreeable tenderness; which is done by letting the Water boil, before you put them in. I do not esteem the _Dutch_ great and larger sort (especially rais'd by the rankness of the Beds) so sweet and agreeable, as those of a moderate size.

64. Spinach, _Spinachia_: of old not us'd in _Sallets_, and the oftner kept out the better; I speak of the _crude_: But being boil'd to a _Pult_, and without other Water than its own moisture, is a most excellent Condiment with _Butter_, _Vinegar_, or _Limon_, for almost all sorts of boil'd Flesh, and may accompany a Sick Man's Diet. 'Tis _Laxative_ and _Emollient_, and therefore profitable for the Aged, and (tho' by original a _Spaniard_) may be had at almost any Season, and in all places.

Stone-Crop, _Sedum Minus_. See _Trick-Madame_.

65. Succory, _Cichorium_, an _Intube_; erratic and wild, with a narrow dark Leaf, different from the _Sative_, tho' probably by culture only; and for being very bitter, a little _edulcorated_ with _Sugar_ and _Vinegar_, is by some eaten in the Summer, and more grateful to the Stomach than the Palate. See _Endive_.

66. Tansy, _Tanacetum_; hot and cleansing; but in regard of its domineering relish, sparingly mixt with our cold _Sallet_, and much fitter (tho' in very small quantity) for the Pan, being qualified with the Juices of other fresh Herbs, _Spinach_, _Green Corn_, _Violet_, _Primrose-Leaves_, &c. at entrance of the Spring, and then fried brownish, is eaten hot with the Juice of _Orange_ and _Sugar_, as one of the most agreeable of all the boil'd _Herbaceous_ Dishes.

67. Tarragon, _Draco Herba_, of _Spanish_ Extraction; hot and spicy: The Tops and young Shoots, like those of _Rochet_, never to be secluded our Composition, especially where there is much _Lettuce_. 'Tis highly cordial and friendly to the Head, Heart, Liver, correcting the weakness of the Ventricle, _&c._

68. Thistle, _Carduus Mariae_; our Lady's milky or dappl'd Thistle, disarm'd of its Prickles, is worth esteem: The young Stalk about _May_, being peel'd and soak'd in Water, to extract the bitterness, boil'd or raw, is a very wholsome _Sallet_, eaten with _Oyl_, _Salt_, and _Peper_; some eat them sodden in proper Broath, or bak'd in Pies, like the _Artichoak_; but the tender Stalk boil'd or fry'd, some preferr; both Nourishing and Restorative.

69. Trick-Madame, _Sedum minus_, Stone-Crop; is cooling and moist, grateful to the Stomach. The _Cimata_ and Tops, when young and tender, dress'd as _Purselane_, is a frequent Ingredient in our cold _Sallet_.

70. Turnep, _Rapum_; moderately hot and moist: _Napus_; the long _Navet_ is certainly the most delicate of them, and best Nourishing. _Pliny_ speaks of no fewer than six sorts, and of several Colours; some of which were suspected to be artificially tinged. But with us, the yellow is preferr'd; by others the red _Bohemian_. But of whatever kind, being sown upon the _Hot-bed_, and no bigger than seedling _Radish_, they do excellently in Composition; as do also the Stalks of the common _Turnep_, when first beginning to Bud.

And here should not be forgotten, that wholsome, as well as agreeable sort of _Bread_, we are [42]taught to make; and of which we have eaten at the greatest Persons Tables, hardly to be distinguish'd from the best of _Wheat_.

Let the _Turneps_ first be peel'd, and boil'd in Water till soft and tender; then strongly pressing out the Juice, mix them together, and when dry (beaten or pounded very fine) with their weight of Wheat-Meal, season it as you do other _Bread_, and knead it up; then letting the Dough remain a little to _ferment_, fashion the Paste into Loaves, and bake it like common Bread.

Some roast _Turneps_ in a Paper under the Embers, and eat them with _Sugar_ and _Butter_.

71. Vine, _Vitis_, the _Capreols_, _Tendrels_, and _Claspers_ (like those of the _Hop_, &c.) whilst very young, have an agreeable _Acid_, which may be eaten alone, or with other _Sallet_.

72. Viper-grass, _Tragopogon_, _Scorzonera_, _Salsifex_, &c. tho' Medicinal, and excellent against the _Palpitation of the Heart_, _Faintings_, _Obstruction of the Bowels_, &c. are besides a very sweet and pleasant _Sallet_; being laid to soak out the bitterness, then peel'd, may be eaten raw, or _Condited_; but best of all stew'd with _Marrow_, _Spice_, _Wine_, &c. as _Artichoak_, _Skirrets_, &c. sliced or whole. They likewise may bake, fry, or boil them; a more excellent Root there is hardly growing.

73. Wood-Sorrel, _Trifolium acetosum_, or _Alleluja_, of the nature of other _Sorrels_.

To all which might we add sundry more, formerly had in _deliciis_, since grown _obsolete_ or quite neglected with us: As among the noblest _Bulbs_, that of the _Tulip_; a Root of which has been valued not to eat, but for the _Flower_ (and yet eaten by mistake) at more than an hundred Pounds. The young fresh _Bulbs_ are sweet and high of taste.

The _Asphodil_ or _Daffodil_; a _Sallet_ so rare in _Hesiod's_ Days, that _Lobel_ thinks it the _Parsnep_, tho' not at all like it; however it was (with the _Mallow_) taken anciently for any _Edule_-Root.

The _Ornithogalons_ roasted, as they do _Chestnuts_, are eaten by the _Italians_, the wild yellow especially, with _Oyl_, _Vinegar_, and _Peper_. And so the small _tuberous_ Roots of _Gramen Amygdalosum_; which they also roast, and make an _Emulsion_ of, to use in Broaths as a great Restorative. The _Oxylapathum_, us'd of old; in the time of _Galen_ was eaten frequently. As also _Dracontium_, with the Mordicant _Arum Theophrasti_, which _Dodonaeus_ teaches how to Dress. Nay, divers of the _Satyrions_, which some condited with _Sugar_, others boil'd in Milk for a great Nourisher, now discarded. But what think we of the _Cicuta_, which there are who reckon among _Sallet_ Herbs? But whatever it is in any other Country, 'tis certainly Mortiferous in ours. To these add the _Viola Matronalis_, _Radix Lunaria_, &c. nay, the _Green Poppy_, by most accounted among the deadly Poysons: How cautious then ought our _Sallet_-Gatherers to be, in reading ancient Authors; lest they happen to be impos'd on, where they treat of Plants, that are familiarly eaten in other Countries, and among other Nations and People of more robust and strong constitutions? bessides the hazard of being mistaken in the Names of divers _Simples_, not as yet fully agreed upon among the Learned in _Botany_.

There are bessides several remaining, which tho' _Abdicated_ here with us, find Entertainment still in Foreign Countries: As the large _Heliotrope_ and Sun-flower (e're it comes to expand, and shew its golden Face) which being dress'd as the _Artichoak_, is eaten for a dainty. This I add as a new Discovery. I once made _Macaroons_ with the ripe blanch'd Seeds, but the _Turpentine_ did so domineer over all, that it did not answer expectation. The _Radix Personata_ mounting with their young Heads, _Lysimachia siliquosa glabra minor_, when fresh and tender, begins to come into the _Sallet_-Tribe. The pale whiter _Popy_, is eaten by the _Genouese_. By the _Spaniards_, the tops of _Wormwood_ with _Oyl_ alone, and without so much as _Bread_; profitable indeed to the Stomach, but offensive to the Head; As is also _Coriander_ and _Rue_, which _Galen_ was accustom'd to eat raw, and by it self, with _Oyl_ and _Salt_, as exceedingly grateful, as well as wholsome, and of great vertue against Infection. _Pliny_, I remember, reports it to be of such effect for the Preservation of _Sight_; that the _Painters_ of his Time, us'd to devour a great quantity of it. And it is still by the _Italians_ frequently mingled among their _Sallets_. The _Lapatha Personata_ (common _Burdock_) comes now and then to the best Tables, about _April_, and when young, before the _Burrs_ and _Clots_ appear, being strip'd, and the bitterness soaked out, treated as the _Chardoon_, is eaten in _Poiverade_; Some also boil them. More might here be reckon'd up, but these may suffice; since as we find some are left off, and gone out, so others be introduc'd and come in their room, and that in much greater Plenty and Variety, than was ever known by our Ancestors. The _Cucumber_ it self, now so universally eaten, being accounted little better than _Poyson_, even within our Memory, as already noted.

To conclude, and after all that has been said of Plants and _Salleting_, formerly in great esteem, (but since obsolete and quite rejected); What if the exalted Juice of the ancient _Silphium_ should come in, and challenge the Precedency? It is a [43]Plant formerly so highly priz'd, and rare for the richness of its Taste and other Vertues; that as it was dedicated to _Apollo_, and hung up in his Temple at _Delphi_; So we read of one single Root brought to the Emperor _Nero_ for an extraordinary Present; and the Drug so esteem'd, that the _Romans_ had long before amass'd a quantity of it, and kept it in the Treasury, till _Julius Caesar_ rob'd it, and took this away, as a thing of mighty value: In a word, it was of that Account; that as a sacred Plant, those of the _Cyrenaic Africa_, honour'd the very Figure of it, by stamping it on the Reverse of their [44]Coin; and when they would commend a thing for its worth to the Skies, [Greek: Bat-ou silphion], grew into a Proverb: _Battus_ having been the Founder of the City _Cyrene_, near which it only grew. 'Tis indeed contested among the Learned _Botanosophists_, whether this Plant was not the same with _Laserpitium_, and the Laser it yields, the odoriferous [45]_Benzoin_? But doubtless had we the true and genuine _Silphium_ (for it appears to have been often sophisticated, and a spurious sort brought into _Italy_) it would soon recover its pristine Reputation, and that it was not celebrated so for nothing extraordinary; since bessides its Medicinal Vertue; it was a wonderful Corroborater of the Stomach, a Restorer of lost Appetite, and Masculine Vigour, _&c._ and that they made use of it almost in every thing they eat.

But should we now really tell the World, that this precious Juice is, by many, thought to be no other than the [46]_Faetid Assa_ our nicer _Sallet-Eaters_ (who yet bestow as odious an Epithet on the vulgar _Garlick_) would cry out upon it as intolerable, and perhaps hardly believe it: But as _Aristophanes_ has brought it in, and sufficiently describ'd it; so the _Scholiast_ upon the place, puts it out of Controversy: And that they made use both of the _Leaves_, _Stalk_, (and _Extract_ especially) as we now do _Garlick_, and other _Hautgouts_ as nauseous altogether. In the mean time, _Garcius_, _Bontius_, and others, assure us, that the _Indians_ at this day universally sauce their Viands with it; and the _Bramins_ (who eat no Flesh at all) inrich their _Sallets_, by constantly rubbing the Dishes with it. Nor are some of our own skilful _Cooks_ Ingnorant, how to condite and use it, with the Applause of those, who, ignorant of the Secret, have admir'd the richness of the Gust it has imparted, when it has been substituted instead of all our _Cipollati_, and other seasonings of that Nature.

And thus have we done with the various _Species_ of all such _Esculents_ as may properly enter the Composition of our _Acetaria_, and cold _Sallet_. And if I have briefly touch'd upon their Natures, Degrees, and _primary Qualities_, which _Intend_ or _Remit_, as to the Scale of _Heat_, _Cold_, _Driness_, _Moisture_, &c. (which is to be understood according to the different Texture of their _component Particles_) it has not been without what I thought necessary for the Instruction of the _Gatherer_, and _Sallet-Dresser_; how he ought to choose, sort, and mingle his Materials and Ingredients together.

What Care and Circumspection should attend the choice and collection of _Sallet_ Herbs, has been partly shew'd. I can therefore, by no means, approve of that extravagant Fancy of some, who tell us, that a _Fool_ is as fit to be the _Gatherer_ of a _Sallet_ as a _Wiser_ Man. Because, say they, one can hardly choose amiss, provided the Plants be green, young, and tender, where-ever they meet with them: But sad experience shews, how many fatal Mistakes have been committed by those who took the deadly _Cicutae_, _Hemlocks_, _Aconits_, &c. for Garden _Persley_, and _Parsneps_; the _Myrrhis Sylvestris_, or _Cow-Weed_, for _Chaerophilum_, (_Chervil_) _Thapsia_ for _Fennel_; the wild _Chondrilla_ for _Succory_; _Dogs-Mercury_ instead of _Spinach_: _Papaver Corniculatum Luteum_, and horn'd _Poppy_ for _Eringo_; _Oenanthe aquatica_ for the _Palustral Apium_, and a world more, whose dire effects have been many times sudden Death, and the cause of Mortal Accidents to those who have eaten of them unwittingly: But supposing some of those wild and unknown Plants should not prove so _deleterious_ and [47]unwholsome; yet may others of them annoy the _Head_, _Brain_, and _Genus Nervosum_, weaken the _Eyes_, offend the _Stomach_, affect the _Liver_, torment the _Bowels_, and discover their malignity in dangerous and dreadful _Symptoms_. And therefore such _Plants_ as are rather _Medicinal_ than _Nourishing_ and _Refreshing_, are studiously to be rejected. So highly necessary it is, that what we sometimes find in _old Books_ concerning _Edules_ of other Countries and Climates (frequently call'd by the Names of such as are wholsome in ours, and among us) mislead not the unskilful Gatherer; to prevent which we read of divers _Popes_ and _Emperors_, that had sometimes Learned _Physicians_ for their _Master-Cooks_. I cannot therefore but exceedingly approve of that charitable Advice of Mr. _Ray_ [48](_Transact. Num._ 238.) who thinks it the Interest of Mankind, that all Persons should be caution'd of advent'ring upon unknown Herbs and Plants to their Prejudice: Of such, I say, with our excellent [49]_Poet_ (a little chang'd)

_Happy from such conceal'd, if still do lie_,
_Of Roots and Herbs the_ unwholsome _Luxury_.

The Illustrious and Learned _Columna_ has, by observing what [50]_Insects_ did usually feed on, make Conjectures of the Nature of the Plants. But I should not so readily adventure upon it on that account, as to its wholsomness: For tho' indeed one may safely eat of a _Peach_ or _Abricot_, after a _Snail_ has been Taster, I question whether it might be so of all other Fruits and Herbs attack'd by other _Insects_: Nor would one conclude, the _Hyoscyamus_ harmless, because the _Cimex_ feeds upon it, as the Learned Dr. _Lyster_ has discover'd. Notice should therefore be taken what _Eggs_ of _Insects_ are found adhering to the Leaves of _Sallet-Herbs_, and frequently cleave so firmly to them, as not easily to be wash'd off, and so not being taken notice of, passing for accidental and harmless Spots only, may yet produce very ill effects.

_Grillus_, who according to the Doctrine of _Transmigration_ (as _Plutarch_ tells us) had, in his turn, been a _Beast_; discourses how much better he fed, and liv'd, than when he was turn'd to _Man_ again, as knowing then, what Plants were best and most proper for him: Whilst Men, _Sarcophagists_ (Flesh-Eaters) in all this time were yet to seek. And 'tis indeed very evident, that Cattel, and other [Greek: panphaga], and _herbaceous_ Animals which feed on Plants, are directed by their Smell, and accordingly make election of their Food: But Men (bessides the _Smell_ and _Taste_) have, or should have, _Reason_, _Experience_, and the Aids of _Natural Philosophy_ to be their Guides in this Matter. We have heard _of Plants_, that (like the _Basilisk_) kill and infect by [51]looking on them only; and some by the touch. The truth is, there's need of all the Senses to determine _Analogically_ concerning the Vertues and Properties, even of the _Leaves_ alone of many _Edule Plants_: The most eminent Principles of near the whole Tribe of _Sallet_ Vegetables, inclining rather to _Acid_ and _Sowre_ than to any other quality, especially, Salt, Sweet, or Luscious. There is therefore Skill and Judgment requir'd, how to suit and mingle our _Sallet_-Ingredients, so as may best agree with the Constitution of the (vulgarly reputed) _Humors_ of those who either stand in need of, or affect these Refreshments, and by so adjusting them, that as nothing should be suffer'd to domineer, so should none of them lose their genuine Gust, Savour, or Vertue. To this end,

The Cooler, and moderately refreshing, should be chosen to extinguish Thirst, attemper the Blood, repress Vapours, _&c._

The Hot, Dry, Aromatic, Cordial and friendly to the Brain, may be qualify'd by the Cold and Moist: The Bitter and Stomachical, with the _Sub-acid_ and gentler Herbs: The _Mordicant_ and pungent, and such as repress or discuss Flatulency (revive the Spirits, and aid Concoction;) with such as abate, and take off the keenness, mollify and reconcile the more harsh and churlish: The mild and insipid, animated with _piquant_ and brisk: The Astringent and Binders, with such as are Laxative and Deobstruct: The over-sluggish, raw, and unactive, with those that are Eupeptic, and promote Concoction: There are _Pectorals_ for the Breast and Bowels. Those of middle Nature, according as they appear to be more or less _Specific_; and as their Characters (tho' briefly) are describ'd in our foregoing _Catalogue_: For notwithstanding it seem in general, that raw _Sallets_ and _Herbs_ have experimentally been found to be the most soveraign Diet in that _Endemial_ (and indeed with us, _Epidemical_ and almost universal) Contagion the _Scorbute_, to which we of this Nation, and most other _Ilanders_ are obnoxious; yet, since the _Nasturtia_ are singly, and alone as it were, the most effectual, and powerful Agents in conquering and expugning that cruel Enemy; it were enough to give the _Sallet-Dresser_ direction how to choose, mingle, and proportion his Ingredients; as well as to shew what Remedies there are contain'd in our Magazine of _Sallet-Plants_ upon all Occasions, rightly marshal'd and skilfully apply'd. So as (with our [52]sweet _Cowley_)

_If thro' the strong and beauteous Fence_
_Of Temperance and Innocence,_
_And wholsome Labours, and a quiet Mind,_
_Diseases passage find;_
_They must not think here to assail_
_A Land unarm'd, or without Guard,_
_They must fight for it, and dispute it hard,_
_Before they can prevail;_
_Scarce any Plant is used here,_
_Which 'gainst some Aile a Weapon does not bear_.

We have said how necessary it is, that in the Composure of a _Sallet_, every Plant should come in to bear its part, without being over-power'd by some Herb of a stronger Taste, so as to endanger the native _Sapor_ and vertue of the rest; but fall into their places, like the _Notes_ in _Music_, in which there should be nothing harsh or grating: And tho' admitting some _Discords_ (to distinguish and illustrate the rest) striking in the more sprightly, and sometimes gentler Notes, reconcile all Dissonancies, and melt them into an agreeable Composition. Thus the Comical _Master-Cook_, introduc'd by _Damoxenus_, when asked [Greek: pos esin autois onmphonia]; _What Harmony there was in Meats_? The very same (says he) that a _Diatessaron_, _Diapente_, and _Diapason_ have one to another in a Consort of Music: And that there was as great care requir'd, not to mingle [53]_Sapores minime consentientes_, jarring and repugnant Tastes; looking upon him as a lamentable Ignorant, who should be no better vers'd in _Democritus_. The whole Scene is very diverting, as _Athenaeus_ presents it; and to the same sense _Macrobius_, _Saturn. lib._ I. _cap._ I. In short, the main Skill of the Artist lies in this:

_What choice to choose, for delicacy best;_
_What Order so contriv'd, as not to mix_
_Tastes not well join'd, inelegant, but bring_
_Taste after Taste, upheld by kindliest change_.

As our [54]_Paradisian Bard_ introduces Eve, dressing of a _Sallet_ for her _Angelical_ Guest.

Thus, by the discreet choice and mixture of the _Oxoleon_ (_Oyl_, _Vinegar_, _Salt_, &c.) the Composition is perfect; so as neither the _Prodigal_, _Niggard_, nor _Insipid_, should (according to the _Italian_ Rule) prescribe in my Opinion; since _One_ may be too profuse, the _Other_ [55]over-saving, and the _Third_ (like himself) give it no Relish at all: It may be too _sharp_, if it exceed a grateful _Acid_; too _Insulse_ and flat, if the Profusion be extream. From all which it appears, that a Wise-Man is the proper Composer of an excellent _Sallet_, and how many _Transcendences_ belong to an accomplish'd _Sallet-Dresser_, so as to emerge an exact _Critic_ indeed, He should be skill'd in the Degrees, Terms, and various _Species_ of Tastes, according to the _Scheme_ set us down in the _Tables_ of the Learned [56]Dr. _Grew_, to which I refer the Curious.

'Tis moreover to be consider'd, that _Edule_ Plants are not in all their Tastes and Vertues alike: For as Providence has made us to consist of different Parts and Members, both Internal and External; so require they different Juices to nourish and supply them: Wherefore the force and activity of some Plants lie in the _Root_; and even the _Leaves_ of some _Bitter-Roots_ are sweet, and _e contra_. Of others, in the _Stem_, _Leaves_, _Buds_, _Flowers_, &c. Some exert their Vigour without _Decoction_; others being a little press'd or contus'd; others again _Raw_, and best in Consort; some alone, and _per se_ without any [Greek: skenasia], Preparation, or Mixture at all. Care therefore must be taken by the _Collector_, that what he gathers answer to these Qualities; and that as near as he can, they consist (I speak of the _cruder Salleting_) of the _Oluscula_, and _ex foliis pubescentibus_, or (as _Martial_ calls them) _Prototomi rudes_, and very tenderest Parts _Gems_, young _Buds_, and even first Rudiments of their several Plants; such as we sometimes find in the _Craws_ of the _Wood-Culver_, _Stock-Dove_, _Partridge_, _Pheasants_, and other Upland Fowl, where we have a natural _Sallet_, pick'd, and almost dress'd to our hands.

I. Preparatory to the Dressing therefore, let your Herby Ingredients be exquisitely cull'd, and cleans'd of all worm-eaten, slimy, canker'd, dry, spotted, or any ways vitiated Leaves. And then that they be rather discreetly sprinkl'd, than over-much sob'd with Spring-Water, especially _Lettuce_, which Dr. [57]_Muffet_ thinks impairs their Vertue; but this, I suppose he means of the _Cabbage_-kind, whose heads are sufficiently protected by the outer Leaves which cover it. After washing, let them remain a while in the _Cullender_, to drain the superfluous moisture: And lastly, swing them altogether gently in a clean course Napkin; and so they will be in perfect condition to receive the _Intinctus_ following.

II. That the _Oyl_, an Ingredient so indispensibly and highly necessary, as to have obtain'd the name of _Cibarium_ (and with us of _Sallet-Oyl_) be very clean, not high-colour'd, nor yellow; but with an Eye rather of a pallid _Olive_ green, without Smell, or the least touch of _rancid_, or indeed of any other sensible Taste or Scent at all; but smooth, light, and pleasant upon the Tongue; such as the genuine _Omphacine_, and native _Luca Olives_ afford, fit to allay the tartness of _Vinegar_, and other _Acids_, yet gently to warm and humectate where it passes. Some who have an aversion to _Oyl_, substitute fresh _Butter_ in its stead; but 'tis so exceedingly clogging to the Stomach, as by no means to be allow'd.

III. _Thirdly_, That the _Vinegar_ and other liquid _Acids_, perfectly clear, neither sowre, _Vapid_ or spent; be of the best Wine Vinegar, whether Distill'd, or otherwise _Aromatiz'd_, and impregnated with the Infusion of _Clove-gillyflowers_, _Elder_, _Roses_, _Rosemary_, _Nasturtium_, &c. inrich'd with the Vertues of the Plant.

A _Verjuice_ not unfit for _Sallet_, is made by a _Grape_ of that Name, or the green immature Clusters of most other Grapes, press'd and put into a small Vessel to ferment.

IV. _Fourthly_, That the _Salt_ (_aliorum Condimentorum Condimentum_, as _Plutarch_ calls it) detersive, penetrating, quickning (and so great a resister of Putrefaction, and universal use, as to have sometimes merited Divine Epithets) be of the brightest _Bay grey-Salt_; moderately dried, and _contus'd_, as being the least Corrosive: But of this, as of _Sugar_ also, which some mingle with the _Salt_ (as warming without heating) if perfectly refin'd, there would be no great difficulty; provided none, save Ladies, were of the Mess; whilst the perfection of _Sallets_, and that which gives them the name, consists in the grateful _Saline Acid_-point, temper'd as is directed, and which we find to be most esteem'd by judicious Palates: Some, in the mean time, have been so nice, and luxuriously curious as for the heightning, and (as they affect to speak) giving the utmost _poinant_ and _Relevee_ in lieu of our vulgar _Salt_, to recommend and cry-up the _Essential-Salts_ and _Spirits_ of the most Sanative Vegetables; or such of the _Alcalizate_ and _Fixt_; extracted from the _Calcination_ of _Baulm_, _Rosemary_, _Wormwood_, _Scurvy-grass_, &c. Affirming that without the gross Plant, we might have healing, cooling, generous, and refreshing _Cordials_, and all the _Materia Medica_ out of the _Salt-Cellar_ only: But to say no more of this Impertinence, as to _Salts_ of _Vegetables_; many indeed there be, who reckon them not much unlike in Operation, however different in _Taste_, _Crystals_, and _Figure_: It being a question, whether they at all retain the Vertues and Faculties of their _Simples_, unless they could be made without _Colcination_. _Franciscus Redi_, gives us his Opinion of this, in a _Process_ how they are to be prepar'd; and so does our Learned [58]Doctor (whom we lately nam'd) whether _Lixivial_, _Essential_, _Marine_, or other factitious _Salts_ of Plants, with their Qualities, and how they differ: But since 'tis thought all _Fixed Salts_ made the _common way_, are little better than our _common Salt_, let it suffice, that our _Sallet-Salt_ be of the best ordinary _Bay-Salt_, clean, bright, dry, and without claminess.

Of _Sugar_ (by some call'd _Indian-Salt_) as it is rarely us'd in _Sallet_, it should be of the best refined, white, hard, close, yet light and sweet as the _Madera's_: Nourishing, preserving, cleansing, delighting the Taste, and preferrable to _Honey_ for most uses. _Note_, That both _this_, _Salt_, and _Vinegar_, are to be proportion'd to the Constitution, as well as what is said of the Plants themselves. The one for cold, the other for hot stomachs.

V. That the _Mustard_ (another noble Ingredient) be of the best _Tewksberry_; or else compos'd of the soundest and weightiest _Yorkshire Seed_, exquisitely sifted, winnow'd, and freed from the Husks, a little (not over-much) dry'd by the Fire, temper'd to the consistence of a Pap with _Vinegar_, in which shavings of the _Horse-Radish_ have been steep'd: Then cutting an _Onion_, and putting it into a small Earthen _Gally-Pot_, or some thick _Glass_ of that shape; pour the _Mustard_ over it, and close it very well with a _Cork_. There be, who preserve the Flower and Dust of the bruised Seed in a well-stopp'd Glass, to temper, and have it fresh when they please. But what is yet by some esteem'd beyond all these, is compos'd of the dried Seeds of the _Indian Nasturtium_, reduc'd to Powder, finely bolted, and mixt with a little _Levain_, and so from time to time made fresh, as indeed all other _Mustard_ should be.

_Note_, That the Seeds are pounded in a Mortar; or bruis'd with a polish'd _Cannon-Bullet_, in a large wooden Bowl-Dish, or which is most preferr'd, ground in a _Quern_ contriv'd for this purpose only.

VI. _Sixthly_, That the _Pepper_ (white or black) be not bruis'd to too small a Dust; which, as we caution'd, is very prejudicial. And here let me mention the _Root_ of the _Minor Pimpinella_, or small _Burnet Saxifrage_; which being dried, is by some extoll'd beyond all other _Peppers_, and more wholsom.

Of other _Strewings_ and _Aromatizers_, which may likewise be admitted to inrich our _Sallet_, we have already spoken, where we mention _Orange_ and _Limon-peel_; to which may also be added, _Jamaica-Pepper_, _Juniper-berries_, &c. as of singular Vertue.

Nor here should I omit (the mentioning at least of) _Saffron_, which the _German_ Housewives have a _way_ of forming into Balls, by mingling it with a little _Honey_; which throughly dried, they reduce to Powder, and sprinkle it over their _Sallets_ for a noble _Cordial_. Those of _Spain_ and _Italy_, we know, generally make use of this Flower, mingling its golden Tincture with almost every thing they eat; But its being so apt to prevail above every thing with which 'tis blended, we little incourage its admittance into our _Sallet_.

VII. Seventhly, That there be the Yolks of fresh and new-laid _Eggs_, boil'd moderately hard, to be mingl'd and mash'd with the _Mustard_, _Oyl_, and _Vinegar_; and part to cut into quarters, and eat with the Herbs.

VIII. _Eighthly_, (according to the _super_-curious) that the _Knife_, with which the _Sallet Herbs_ are cut (especially _Oranges_, _Limons_, &c.) be of _Silver_, and by no means of _Steel_, which all _Acids_ are apt to corrode, and retain a Metalic relish of.

IX. _Ninthly_ and _Lastly_, That the _Saladiere_, (Sallet-Dishes) be of _Porcelane_, or of the _Holland-Delft-Ware_; neither too deep nor shallow, according to the quantity of the _Sallet_ Ingredients; _Pewter_, or even _Silver_, not at all so well agreeing with _Oyl_ and _Vinegar_, which leave their several Tinctures. And note, That there ought to be one of the Dishes, in which to beat and mingle the Liquid _Vehicles_; and a second to receive the crude Herbs in, upon which they are to be pour'd; and then with a Fork and a Spoon kept continually stirr'd, 'till all the Furniture be equally moisten'd: Some, who are husbands of their _Oyl_, pour at first the _Oyl_ alone, as more apt to communicate and diffuse its Slipperiness, than when it is mingled and beaten with the _Acids_; which they pour on last of all; and 'tis incredible how small a quantity of _Oyl_ (in this quality, like the gilding of _Wyer_) is sufficient, to imbue a very plentiful assembly of _Sallet-Herbs_.

The _Sallet-Gatherer_ likewise should be provided with a light, and neatly made _Withy-Dutch-Basket_, divided into several Partitions.

Thus instructed and knowing in the _Apparatus_; the _Species_, _Proportions_, and manner of _Dressing_, according to the several Seasons you have in the following Table.

It being one of the Inquiries of the Noble [59]Mr. _Boyle_, what _Herbs_ were proper and fit to make _Sallets_ with, and how best to order them? we have here (by the Assistance of Mr. _London_, His Majesty's Principal Gard'ner) reduc'd them to a competent Number, not exceeding _Thirty Five_; but which may be vary'd and inlarg'd, by taking in, or leaving out, any other _Sallet_-Plant, mention'd in the foregoing List, under these three or four Heads.

But all these sorts are not to be had at the very same time, and therefore we have divided them into the _Quarterly Seasons_, each containing and lasting Three Months.

_Note_, That by _Parts_ is to be understood a _Pugil_; which is no more than one does usually take up between the Thumb and the two next Fingers. By _Fascicule_ a reasonable full Grip, or Handful.

* * * * *

[Transcriber's Note: The following tables have been modified from their original layout. The left-most columns are converted to "section headers", the column headers have been reproduced above each of these new sections, and a horizontal rule added above them to better visually indicate the restructuring. The original structure is _very_ wide.]

=========================================================================
Month. _January_, _February_, and _March_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.

=========================================================================
Month. _April_, _May_, and _June_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.

/ _Lop_, \ \
Blanch'd | _Silesan_, Winter, | Lettuce. | Of each a pugil.
\ _Roman_, Winter, / /

=========================================================================
Month. _July_, _August_, and _September_.
=========================================================================
Ordering
and Species. Proportion.
Culture.

Blanch'd, / Silesian _Lettuce_, One whole _Lettuce_.
_and may be |
eaten by | Roman _Lettuce_, \ Two parts.
themselves | _Cress_, /
with some_ |
Nasturtium- \ _Cabbage_, Four parts.
_flowers_.

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Acetaria: A Discourse of SalletsChapter II: Front Matter (2)

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