Chapter XXIV

There she might read in nature's page the wonders of Creation,
almighty power, infinite wisdom and unbounded might. There truths
that entertain, reward the searching mind, and onward lead
inquiring thought. The curious wonders still unfold, and rise
upon the view. The mind rejoicing, comments as she reads, and
raises still to the Almighty Power increasing homage.

[_NY Weekly_: The School of Nature (introductory poem: Theodosia):

"------------ Nature spreads
An open volume; where, in ev'ry page,
We read the wonders of Almighty Pow'r,
Infinite Wisdom, and unbounded Love.
Here sweet instruction, entertaining truths,
Reward the searching mind, and onward lead
Enquiring Thought: new beauties still unfold,
And op'ning wonders rise upon the view.
The Mind, rejoicing, comments as she reads;
While through th' inspiring page Conviction glows,
And warms to praise her animated pow'rs."]

The summer was past its meridian, and had shed abroad its warmest influences, and enriched the various scenes of nature with the luxuriance and beauty of its foliage. In the meantime, Alida departed again from her father's house for the city, to join a party composed of gentlemen and matrons, Albert her brother, with several young ladies, who all left the port of New-York for the Falls of Niagara. Her pensive mind became cheered and animated as the gallant steamer left the shores of the city and moved majestically over the smooth face of the Hudson. The morning was extremely beautiful, and she surveyed with a new and alleviating pleasure, the various and extensive prospect of the surrounding country. The scenery on the river at this season surpassed all description, and exhibited a landscape worthy to relate in history. The borders of the river beautifully interspersed with cottages, villages, and large flourishing towns, elegant country-seats, with grounds tastefully laid out, which afforded to the eye of the traveller a novel and enchanting appearance. They arrived about sunset at the city of Albany, and took lodgings at Cruttenden's boarding-house, on an eminence near the Capitol or State-house.

[_Travels_ (middle of chapter V):

At the village of Greenbush, near Albany, we crossed the Hudson or
North river in a horse-boat, and upon our arrival in the city took
lodgings at Cruttenden's boarding-house, on an eminence near the
capitol or state-house.]

This city, which is situated on the right bank of the Hudson, and stands westward upon a rising ground, received its name, when in possession of the English, in honour of James II., who was the duke of York and Albany. On the following morning they took a walk through the city. In consequence of its vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga, and New Lebanon Springs, in the fashionable season the hotel was so full of strangers that no more could be accommodated.

[_Travels_:

Albany contains about fifteen thousand inhabitants. It is situated
upon the right bank of the Hudson, and extends westward upon an
eminence. It was built by the Dutch in 1614, under the name of Fort
Orange, and received its present name after it came into the
possession of the English, in honour of the afterwards unfortunate
King James II. who was then duke of York and Albany. Some of the
Dutch houses are still standing, and several of the streets retain
their original names.

At the tavern we met with a Mr. Jackson, from New York, who had
arrived at the same time, and who was accompanied by his sister and
his son, Columbus, a sensible lad about ten years of age. Mr. J. is
a teacher. In consequence of the vicinity to the Ballston, Saratoga,
and New Lebanon springs, and the fashionable season, the hotel was
so full of strangers, that I was obliged to sleep with Mr. Tromp, in
a small chamber....]

Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and expects to reap the most happy results from the Erie canal, which commences here, and runs a distance of three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie. The company took a walk to the new basin, into which the canal empties. It is separated from the Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the river.

[_Travels_:

Albany has received a new impulse, an increase of commerce, and
expects to reap the most happy results from the Erie Canal, which
has been lately established, and which commences here, and runs a
distance of three hundred and sixty-two miles to Lake Erie.... We
... took a walk to the new basin, into which the canal empties. It
is separated from the Hudson by a dam which runs parallel with the
river....
...]

[[The Erie Canal was begun in 1817 and completed in 1825.]]

On the morning of the 14th of August they took passage on board of the Albany, one of the canal packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This canal, which is three hundred and sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three locks between the Hudson river and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and eighty-eight feet above the level of the former river. The packet-boat took them from thence to Schenectady. It was covered, and contained a spacious cabin. On account of the great number of the locks, the progress of their journey was but slow. The boat was drawn by three horses, that walked upon a narrow path leading along the canal, and beneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over it.

[_Travels_ (chapter VI begins):

On the morning of the 14th of August, we took passage on board the
Albany, one of the canal packet-boats, for Lake Erie. This canal....
is three hundred and sixty-two miles in length, with eighty-three
locks, between the Hudson and Lake Erie, which lies six hundred and
eighty-eight feet above the level of the former river.... The
packet-boat which took us to Schenectady, was seventy feet long,
fourteen feet wide, and drew two feet water. It was covered, and
contained a spacious cabin, with a kitchen, and was very neatly
arranged. On account of the great number of locks, the progress of
our journey was but slow: our packet-boat went only at the rate of
three miles an hour, being detained at each lock, on an average,
four minutes. The locks are fourteen feet wide above the surface,
and have a fall from seven to twelve feet. The packet-boat was drawn
by three horses, which walked upon a narrow tow-path leading along
the canal, and beneath the numerous bridges which are thrown over
it....]

The distance from Albany to Schenectady by land is only fifteen miles, and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in a stage coach, but as they were anxious to see the canal, they preferred going by water twenty-eight miles.

[_Travels_:

The distance from Albany to Schenectady, by land, is only fifteen
miles, and persons are enabled to travel it in a very short time in
the stagecoach; but as we were anxious to see the canal, and get
leisure to complete our journals, we preferred going by water,
twenty-eight miles.]

The city of Troy, five miles and a half above Albany, is pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the foot of several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called Mount Ida. There is a branch canal, which has two locks, and establishes a communication with Troy. They soon arrived at a place where there were no less than nine locks, with an ascent of seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right of this, is another canal, which unites with the Hudson and the canal from Lake Champlain.

[_Travels_:

At Troy, five miles and a half from Albany, is the government
arsenal, which appears to be a large establishment. As far as this
place, the canal runs nearly parallel with the Hudson. Troy, which
is very pleasantly situated on the left bank of the river, at the
foot of several tolerably high mountains, one of which is called
Mount Ida, appears, if we may be permitted to judge from the large
store-houses and the good appearance of the dwellings, to be a
wealthy place. Here is a branch canal which has two locks, and
establishes a communication with Troy. Shortly after, we arrived at
a place where there are no less than nine locks, with an ascent of
seventy-eight feet. In front, and to the right of this, is another
canal, which unites with the Hudson and the canal from Lake
Champlain.]

At this place they left the Hudson, and directed their course along the Mohawk river. During their ride, they observed a covered wooden bridge, which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen wooden piers. There was a fine view of the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk river, seventy-eight feet in height, and about four hundred feet wide. In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of the Mohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent. During this season of dry weather, they presented a handsome appearance, though they were very small, the river being almost completely dried up.

[_Travels_:

At this place we left the Hudson and directed our course along the
Mohawk river. During our ride we observed a covered wooden bridge,
which extends over the latter river, a short distance from its
mouth, and is about six hundred feet in length, supported by fifteen
wooden piers. Here we saw the famous Cohoes Falls of the Mohawk
river, seventy-eight feet in height and about four hundred feet
wide. In the spring, when these falls extend over the entire bed of
the Mohawk, they are said to be extremely magnificent; during the
present dry weather, they presented a very handsome appearance,
though they were very small. The river was almost completely dried
up....]

Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal on the right bank of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite side of the river by means of an aqueduct bridge one thousand one hundred and eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is supported by twenty-six stone columns, on which account they have placed a chevaux-de-frieze to keep off the ice in the river. The canal is cut through the rocks almost the whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the Mohawk, and presents a very handsome appearance.

[_Travels_:

Finding great difficulty in continuing the canal on the right bank
of the Mohawk, they were obliged here to carry it to the opposite
side by means of an aqueduct-bridge, one thousand one hundred and
eighty-eight feet in length. This bridge is of wood, and is
supported by twenty-six stone columns, on account of which, they
have placed a _chevaux-de-frise_, to keep off the ice in the river
about one hundred yards off.... The canal is cut through the rocks,
almost the whole distance, where it runs along the left bank of the
Mohawk, and presents a very handsome appearance.]

Twelve miles further on, it returns again to the right bank of the river, by a similar aqueduct, supported by sixteen piers. Four miles farther on is Schenectady, where they arrived after sunset. Between this town and Albany they passed no less than twenty-seven locks. At this place they left the packet-boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given's hotel, which, after the great heat they had endured during the day, was exceedingly agreeable. Early on the next morning they walked through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of two large buildings situated at a short distance from the town, upon a little eminence. From this building there is a beautiful view of the town and of the Mohawk valley. They left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat, which had engaged to take them to Utica, eighty miles distant, by an early hour the next day. The canal again ran along the well cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the prospect of the country, on account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights, was beautiful.

[_Travels_:

Twelve miles farther on, it returns again to the right bank of the
Mohawk by a similar aqueduct, seven hundred and forty-eight feet in
length and supported by sixteen piers. Above this aqueduct, which is
also protected by a _chevaux-de-frise_, there is a common wooden
bridge thrown over the river, for wagons. Four miles farther on is
Schenectady, where we arrived after sunset. Between this town and
Albany, we passed no less than twenty-seven locks.... At this place
we left the packet-boat, in order to proceed to Utica next morning
in another boat, and found excellent lodgings at Given's hotel,
which, after the great heat we had endured during the day, was
exceedingly agreeable. Its inhabitants are, in part, descendants of
the Lower Saxons, and some of them whom I saw at the tavern
conversed with me in bad Dutch. Early on the next morning we walked
through the town, and visited Union College, which consists of two
large buildings situated a short distance from the town upon a
little eminence. It was the time of vacation, and consequently it
was perfectly silent. From its decaying appearance, I should judge
the college was not in a very prosperous condition. From this
building you have a beautiful view of the town, and of the Mohawk
valley, which appears here to be well settled. In the town we
observed a peculiar windmill, with a horizontal wheel, whose sails,
about twenty in number, stand perpendicularly.

We left Schenectady early in the morning on board the packet-boat
Samuel Young, which had engaged to take us to Utica, eighty miles
distant, by an early hour the next day. It was a large boat, and, as
the passengers are obliged to spend the night on board, is provided
with separate apartments for the ladies. The canal again ran along
the well-cultivated valley of the Mohawk, and the country, on
account of the foliage of the trees upon the heights was beautiful.]

The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses. The canal is carried over two rivers, called Schoharie, Canajoharie, from which it receives the most of its water. At this place the horses were conveyed to the opposite side of the two rivers by means of a ferry-boat. At the first ferry is a small village, called Fort Hunter, where at the time of the revolution there had been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening they passed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains. There are twenty locks between Schenectady and Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and the company very much oppressed by the heat, but in the evening fortunately there was a thunder-shower, which cooled the air. They passed over an aqueduct bridge during the night, which stands over a solace called Little Falls.

[_Travels_:

The village of Amsterdam consists of a few neat houses; and
opposite, on the right bank of the Mohawk, is Rotterdam. On our way
we passed several small aqueducts, the longest of which rest only
upon three piers, and extend over small brooks, which, as well as
the small rivulets, are distinguished by the Indian appellation of
"creek." The canal is carried over two rivers, called Schoharie and
Canajoharie creeks, from which it receives the most of its water. At
this place the horses are conveyed to the opposite side of the two
rivers by means of ferryboats. At the first ferry is a small
village, called Fort Hunter, where, before the revolution, there had
been a fort, or rather a redoubt of the same name. Towards evening
we passed through a valley, which is formed by two rocky mountains,
one of which is called Anthony's Nose. The houses we saw on our
route, had generally a handsome appearance; to-day and yesterday I
observed also some saw-mills. There are twenty-six locks between
Schenectady and Utica. The day was intolerably warm, and our company
was very numerous. I confined myself to writing, the whole day, as
much as possible; but, in consequence of the heat, I could not avoid
sleeping. In the evening we fortunately had a thunder-storm, which
cooled the air.... During the night we passed an aqueduct bridge,
which stands over a solace, called Little Falls.]

Towards morning they passed through a well-cultivated region called German Flats, which was settled by some Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At about ten o'clock they arrived at Utica, which is intersected by the canal, and is a large, flourishing town. In fact it is only here that a person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation, and gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man and of his enterprising genius. Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two banks and four churches. It has also several taverns, the largest of which called Shepherd's hotel, they found excellent accommodations. There were besides many large and convenient stores, a bookstore, and printing office. The number of travellers this summer were unusually great, especially from the southern states.

[_Travels_:

Towards morning we passed through a well-cultivated region, with
some neat houses, called German flats, and which was settled by some
Germans during the time of Queen Anne. At about twelve o'clock at
noon we arrived at Utica, nine miles from the place where we passed
a lock, which is the last that occurs in the next seventy miles. The
land appeared to be marshy, and consisted of sand and pebbles.

Utica, which is intersected by the canal, is a flourishing town, of
about four thousand inhabitants.... In fact, it is only here that a
person begins to admire the great improvements in cultivation, and
gets perfectly new ideas of the works of man, and of his
enterprising genius! Utica, on the right bank of the Mohawk, has two
banks, four churches, an academy, and large and convenient stores, a
bookstore, and printing-office. It has also several ale-houses, and
three fine taverns, at the largest of which, called Shepherd's
hotel, we found excellent accommodations. In this house there are
always more than seventy beds for the accommodation of strangers;
and these, on some occasions, are barely sufficient. The number of
travellers this summer, is said to have been unusually great,
especially from the southern states....]