Chapter XXVII

Revolving years have since rolled on apace,
Since patriots here, convened to form we're told,
The school to train the military band,
And Putnam's fortress still we may behold.

The season was now far advanced. Alida and her brother felt uneasy at being so long separated from their father. The rest of the party were anxious again to see their friends in the city. After tarrying a few days at Forsyth's Hotel, they determined to proceed on their way back again to New-York without delay.

[_Travels_ (chapter IX begins):

As the season was so far advanced, I wished to reach New York
without delay.]

They therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain to its southern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, taking the Catskill mountains by the way, and inspecting the famous military school of West Point.

[_Travels_:

We therefore concluded to travel soon, and visit Lake Champlain to
its southern extremity, then to Saratoga, Albany, and further down
the Hudson to New York, taking the Catskill mountains by the way,
and inspecting the famous military school of West Point.
...]

The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several large islands, is six miles. The shore on the right, belonging to the state of New-York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs to Vermont, and is more mountainous. As night approached, they were prevented from beholding this beautiful part of the country; and were also, with regret, prevented from seeing the battle-ground of Plattsburgh, at which town the vessel made a short stay during the night, and then proceeded to Burlington, in Vermont, and towards morning passed by the ruins of Fort Crown Point, which lie on a hill.

[_Travels_:

The greatest breadth of Lake Champlain, which contains several large
islands, is six miles. The shore on our right, belonging to the
state of New York, is low and covered with trees; the other belongs
to Vermont, and is more mountainous. As night approached, we were
prevented from enjoying this beautiful part of the country; I was
also with regret prevented from seeing the battle ground of
Plattsburgh, at which town the vessel made a short stay during the
night. Some American custom-house officers came on board, without,
however, inquiring after our baggage, and this was a new and not
disagreeable circumstance.

The same night we stopped at Burlington in Vermont, and the Grymes'
family left us here to go to Boston. I expected to meet this
interesting family again in New York in fourteen days. Towards
morning we passed the ruins of Fort Crownpoint, which lie on a
hill.]

At this place the Lake is very narrow, and resembles a river. The shores are generally covered with bushes and pine trees, are hilly, and afford a pleasing prospect. They now pursued their journey as far as Lake George, and arrived at the village of Caldwell. The shores of the Lake are very hilly, the heights are all covered with trees, and are not above eight hundred feet high. There are several islands in the lake, generally covered with wood, and the scenery around is very handsome. The level of the lake is about three hundred feet higher than that of Lake Champlain. The stream which flows from the former into the latter lake, forms, in its course, a succession of small cascades.

[_Travels_:

At this place the lake is very narrow and resembles a river. The
shores are generally covered with bushes and pine trees, are hilly,
and afford a pleasing prospect....
...
From Ticonderoga we went in a stage three miles further to Lake
George, through a very hilly country. The level of this lake is
about three hundred feet higher than that of Lake Champlain; the
stream which flows from the former into the latter lake, forms a
succession of small cascades, and turns several saw-mills. We
arrived at the northern point of Lake George, and entered the
steam-boat Mountaineer, which was ready to depart; it was ninety
feet long with a machine of sixteen horse-power.

Lake George resembles the Scottish lakes. It is thirty-six miles
long, and never more than five miles broad. The shores are very
hilly, the heights are all covered with trees, and are not, as it
seems to me, above eight hundred feet high. There are several
islands in the lake, generally covered with wood.... The scenery is
very handsome.... At the southern extremity, however, lies the
village of Caldwell, founded about twenty years ago, which, besides
a very good and large inn, where we took lodgings, contains several
neat houses....]

They left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, in two inconvenient carriages, and passed through a very uninteresting, deep, sandy road, in a hilly part of the country, covered with thorny trees, on their route to Saratoga Springs, to which the whole fashionable world of the United States repair in summer, and the fashionables have here the same mania which prevails in other countries, to visit the baths in summer, whether sick or well. The distance is twenty-seven miles. On their passage was seen but one interesting object, the Hudson falls, which river they had left at Albany, and reached again nine miles from Caldwell, coming from the west.

[_Travels_:

We left Caldwell at eight o'clock the next day, September 11, in two
inconvenient carriages, and passed through a very uninteresting,
deep, sandy road, in a hilly country, covered with thorny trees, on
our route to Saratoga springs, to which the whole fashionable world
of the United States repairs in summer, for the fashionables have
here the same mania which prevails in other countries, to visit the
baths in summer, whether sick or well. The distance is twenty-seven
miles. On our passage, we saw but one interesting object--the Hudson
falls, which river we had left at Albany, and reached again nine
miles from Caldwell, coming from the west.]

These falls are, however, under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village of the same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky shores of the river. The principal fall is forty feet high. These falls are not to be numbered among the largest, but among the handsomest in the United States. A constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun shone very brilliantly, several rainbows were seen at the same time. In the rock, as at Niagara, were some remarkable and deep cavities. At the base of the small island which divides the chief fall into two parts, a remarkable cave appears below the falls, leading to the other side of the rock. The Hudson is partly navigable above Glenn's Falls, and two miles farther up, feeds a navigable canal, with thirteen locks, which runs seven miles north of the Hudson, and there joins Champlain canal.

[_Travels_:

These falls are known under the name of Glenn's Falls. A village of
the same name is built in their vicinity, on the rocky shores of the
river.... A single rock, on which, also, a saw-mill stands, divides
into two parts, the principal fall, which is forty feet high. But
there are, both above and below the principal falls, a number of
smaller falls, which we could approach with ease, as the water was
very low. These falls are not indeed to be numbered among the
largest, but among the handsomest falls which I have seen. A
constant mist arises from them, and, as the sun shone very
brilliantly, we saw several rainbows at the same time. In the rock,
as at Niagara, we observed some remarkable and deep cavities.... At
the base of the small island, which divides the chief fall into two
parts, a remarkable cave appears below the falls, leading to the
other side of the rock.... The Hudson is partly navigable above
Glenn's Falls, and two miles further up, feeds a navigable canal,
with thirteen locks, which runs seven miles north of the Hudson, and
then joins Champlain canal.]

The party arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped at Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had already departed, among those who remained was the governor of the state of New-York. They were introduced to his Excellency. The gentlemen conversed with him freely, and found him intelligible and refined, and scientific in his conversation.

[_Travels_:

We arrived at Saratoga at two o'clock in the afternoon, and stopped
at Congress Hall. The greater part of the company had already
departed, so that but forty persons remained; among these was the
governor of the state of New York, the celebrated De Witt Clinton. I
was immediately introduced to his excellency, and very well received
by this great statesman.]

[[During the period spanned by _Alida_ (1811-1816), the governor
of New York was Daniel Tompkins.]]

In the evening the company assemble in the large hall in the lower story, and pass away the time in music, dancing or conversation, where they witness all the politeness, refinement, and hospitality that characterize the Americans.

[_Travels_:

.... In the evening the company assembles in the large halls in the
lower story, at this season, alas! by the fire, and pass the time in
music, dancing, or conversation....]

The waters of the different springs are generally drank, but baths are also erected. High Rock spring flows from a white conical lime-stone rock, five feet high. The water is seen in this spring in constant agitation. So much fixed air escapes from it, that an animal held over it, as in the Grotto del Cane, near Naples, cannot live above half a minute.

[_Travels_:

The different springs, which do not lie far from each other in
a swampy ground in the same valley, are called Hamilton, Congress,
Columbia, Flat Rock, Munroe, High Rock, President, and Red Spring.
The water is generally drank, but baths are also erected. High Rock
Spring flows from a white conical limestone rock, five feet high, in
which there is a round aperture above, about nine inches in
diameter, through which the water in the spring is seen in a state
of constant agitation. So much fixed air escapes from it, that an
animal held over it, as in the Grotto del Cane, near Naples, cannot
live above half a minute....]

In a few days they left Saratoga Springs, in a convenient stage, to go to Albany, thirty-six miles distant. They passed through a disagreeable and sandy country. The uniformity was, however, very pleasingly interrupted by Saratoga Lake, which is eight miles long.

[_Travels_:

The governor had the kindness to give me some letters for New York,
and a letter of introduction to the Shakers of New Lebanon.
Furnished with these, we left Saratoga Springs, September 12th, at 9
o'clock, in a convenient stage to go to Albany, thirty-six miles
distant. We passed through a disagreeable and sandy country. The
uniformity was, however, very pleasingly interrupted by Saratoga
lake, which is eight miles long....
...]

At the small town of Waterford they passed along the left shore of the Hudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the Mohawk. They proceeded on their route in the night on a very good road, and passed through Lansingburgh and Troy. The latter is very handsomely built, and many stores were very well lighted up in the evening. Here they returned to the right shore of the Hudson, and reached Albany at ten o'clock at night.

[_Travels_:

At the small town of Waterford we passed along the left shore of the
Hudson on a long wooden bridge, to avoid a bad bridge over the
Mohawk. We proceeded on our route in the night on a very good road,
and passed through Lansingburg and Troy. The latter is very
handsomely built, and many stores are very well lighted up in the
evening. Here we returned to the right shore of the Hudson, and
reached Albany at 10 o'clock at night.
...]

At eight o'clock next morning they took passage on board the steam-boat, to go down the river as far as the town of Catskill, at the foot of Pine Orchard. The company ascended the mountain, which is twelve miles high, in stages. They reached Pine Orchard a little before sunset. The building on the mountain for the accommodation of visiters, is a splendid establishment. Alida was truly delighted with the landscape it presented in miniature; where large farms appeared like garden spots, and the Hudson a rivulet, and where sometimes the clouds were seen floating beneath the eye of the spectator.

[[This paragraph does not appear in _Travels in North America_.]]

The next morning they again took the steam-boat at Catskill to go to Hudson, twenty-seven and a half miles from Albany, which they reached about noon. This city appears very handsome and lively. On the opposite side of the river is Athens, between which and Hudson there seems to be much communication kept up by a team-boat. A very low island in the middle of the stream between the two places, rendered this communication somewhat difficult at first, as vessels were obliged to make a great circuit. To avoid this inconvenience, a canal was cut through the island, through which the team-boat now passes with ease and rapidity.

[_Travels_:

At ten o'clock we embarked on board the steam-boat Richmond. The
banks of the Hudson are very handsome, and here and there well
cultivated. From Albany to New York it is one hundred and forty-four
miles, and to West Point ninety-six. Hudson, a place twenty-seven
and a half miles from Albany, which we reached at noon, seems to be
very handsome and lively. We remarked in the harbour several sloops,
and on shore some brick stores, five stories high. On the opposite
side of the river lies Athens, between which and Hudson there seems
to be much communication kept up by a team-boat. A very low island
in the middle of the stream between the two places rendered this
communication somewhat difficult at first, as vessels were obliged
to make a great circuit. To avoid this inconvenience, a canal was
cut through the island, through which the team-boat now passes with
ease and rapidity.]

This place affords a very fine view of the lofty Catskill mountains. They left the city of Hudson in the afternoon, and arrived at West Point at eleven o'clock at night, on the right side of the Hudson, and landed at a wharf furnished with a sentry-box. An artillerist stood sentinel. They were obliged to ascend a somewhat steep road in order to reach the house which is prepared for the reception of strangers. The building belongs to the government, and is designed for the mess-room of the officers and cadets. The purveyor for this table is bound by contract with the government to keep several chambers with beds in order for the reception of the relations of the cadets.

[_Travels_:

This place affords a very fine view of the lofty Catskill Mountains.

About eleven o'clock at night we arrived at West Point, on the right
side of the Hudson, and landed at a wharf furnished with a
sentry-box. An artillerist, who stood sentinel, examined us. I
afterwards discovered that this rule was made on account of the
visits which the cadets receive. We were obliged to ascend a
somewhat steep road in order to reach the house, which is prepared
for the reception of strangers. A small but very clean room was
prepared for us. The building belongs to the government, and is
designed for the mess-room of the officers and cadets. The purveyor
for this table is bound by contract with government to keep several
chambers with beds in order, for the reception of the relations of
the cadets, and thus a kind of inn arose.]

The morning after their arrival, the gentlemen paid an early visit to lieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school, and were received in a very friendly manner. He had presided over this school several years. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled this institution, and very much improved it.

[_Travels_:

The morning after our arrival we paid an early visit to
lieutenant-colonel Thayer, superintendent of the military school,
and were received in a very friendly manner. He has presided over
this school eight years. It was founded in 1802, during the
presidency of Jefferson. Colonel Thayer has entirely remodelled this
institution. During his travels in Europe he visited the French
military schools, and has endeavoured to make this resemble the
polytechnic school. But he will find it difficult to equal this once
celebrated school, as with the best will in the world he cannot find
in this country such excellent professors as were assembled in that
institution.]

[[Sylvanus Thayer (1785-1872) was Superintendent of West Point from
1817 to 1833.]]

The cadets, whose number may amount to two hundred and fifty, are divided into four classes for the purposes of instruction. They are received between the ages of fourteen and twenty, and must undergo an examination before they enter.

[_Travels_:

The cadets, whose number may amount to two hundred and fifty, but at
the last examination consisted of two hundred and twenty-one, are
divided into four classes for the purposes of instruction. They are
received between the ages of fourteen and twenty, undergo an
examination before they enter....]

Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whom receives monthly eight dollars from government as wages.

[_Travels_:

Instruction is communicated gratuitously to the cadets, each of whom
receives monthly eight dollars from government as wages.]

A public examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end of June, by a commission appointed by the Secretary of War. This commission consists of staff officers from the army and navy, members of Congress, governors of states, learned men and other distinguished citizens. After this examination, the best among those who have finished their course are appointed as officers in the army.

[_Travels_:

A public examination of the cadets takes place every year at the end
of June, by a commission, appointed by the secretary of war. This
commission consists of staff-officers from the army and navy,
members of congress, governors of states, learned men, and other
distinguished citizens. After this examination, the best among those
who have finished their course are appointed as officers in the
army....
...]

The cadets live in two large massive buildings, three stories high, and are divided into four companies. The institution possesses four principal buildings. The two largest serve as barracks for the cadets, a third contains the mess-room, and the fourth the church. A large level space, consisting of several acres, lies in front of the buildings, forming a peninsula, and commanding the navigation of the Hudson, above which it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight feet. Towards the river it is surrounded by steep rocks, so that it is difficult to ascend, unless by the usual way.

[_Travels_:

.... The cadets are divided in four companies, and live in two large
massive buildings, three stories high....
...
The institution possesses four principal buildings. The two largest
serve as barracks for the cadets, a third contains the messroom and
inn, and the fourth the church, chemical laboratory, library, and
the hall for drawing, in which are some of the best drawings of the
cadets....

A large level space, consisting of several acres, lies in front of
the buildings, forming a peninsula and commanding the navigation of
the Hudson, above which it is elevated one hundred and eighty-eight
feet. Towards the river it is surrounded with steep rocks, so that
it would be difficult to ascend, unless by the usual way....
...]

The party now ascended the rocky mountain on which are to be seen the ruins of Fort Putnam. The way led through a handsome forest of oak, beech, chestnut and walnut trees. The fort occupying the summit of the mountain, was erected in an indented form, of strong granite, and is altogether inaccessible on the side next the enemy. It had but a single entrance, with very strong casemates. It was built on private property during the revolution; the owner of the ground claimed it, and government were obliged to restore it. The government afterwards acquired the ground on which West Point stands, as well as the adjoining heights.

[_Travels_:

Notwithstanding my injured side, I ascended the rocky mountain on
which the ruins of Fort Putnam lie. My way led through a handsome
forest of oak, beech, chesnut, and walnut trees. The fort occupied
the summit of the mountain, was erected in an indented form, of
strong granite, and is altogether inaccessible on the side next the
enemy. It had but a single entrance, with very strong casemates, and
two small powder-magazines. It was built during the revolution on
private property; the owner of the ground claimed it, and government
were obliged to restore it to him, after which he destroyed the
fort. The government afterwards acquired the ground on which West
Point stands, as well as the adjoining heights....]

A very fine view one may have from Fort Putnam of the plains of West Point and of the Hudson river. The view to the north is particularly handsome, in which direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen in the back ground.

[_Travels_:

A very fine view is enjoyed from Fort Putnam of the plain of West
Point, and of the Hudson, which here calls to mind the high banks of
the Rhine. The view to the north is particularly handsome, in which
direction Newburgh, lying on the river, is seen in the back ground.
We saw nothing of the Catskill mountains.
...]

A band of music, paid by the government, belongs exclusively to the cadets, and is said to afford the best military music in the United States.

[_Travels_:

.... A band of music, paid by the government, belongs exclusively to
them, and is said to afford the best military music in the United
States. Every one has his taste....]

[[This passage is out of sequence. In _Travels_ it appears about
midway between the paragraphs beginning "A large level space..."
and "Notwithstanding my injured side..."]]

The party generally regretted leaving this agreeable place, where they had been highly gratified during their short stay. They took passage on board the steamboat Constitution, bound to New-York, sixty miles distant.

[_Travels_:

I was very sorry that we were obliged on the third day after our
arrival to leave this agreeable place, which had so extremely
pleased me; but I was obliged to go to New York at last!...]

[_Travels_ (Baltimore chapter):

We went on board the steam-boat Constitution.]

They were now again on their way to one of the most flourishing cities in the United States, which attracts a great part of the commerce of the American nation. They came into the vicinity about sunset, and at eight o'clock in the evening they landed in New-York. Leaving their friends in the city, Albert and his sister took passage in a stage coach next morning, and journeyed in a short time as far as the village of ----, and from thence proceeded on to the residence of their father.

[_Travels_:

.... After sundown we came into the vicinity of New York, the largest
city in the United States, which attracts nearly the whole commerce
of the country, and now already numbers one hundred and seventy
thousand inhabitants. We landed about eight o'clock in the
evening....]

[[_Travels in North America_ ends here.]]