Chapter XXV

When first beside the lake thy turrets rose,
Extending far around in simple pride,
A novel beauty o'er the landscape throws,
Where gentle waters softly murmuring glide.

At Utica the gentlemen hired a stage to visit the Falls of Trenton, distant fourteen miles. They were accompanied in this route by a number of passengers from New-York and North Carolina. They crossed the Mohawk upon a covered wooden bridge. After this the road gradually ascended to a forest, which was in part cleared for new fields. At a little distance from the falls is a tavern, where they left the carriage, and went on foot through thick woods, from which a pair of stairs conducted to the falls. The beautiful mass of green around, the azure sky, the large and variegated rocks, and the three falls, produce a most happy effect. The rocks of these falls are so excavated by the water, that they have the form of a common kettle. The upper falls, which are about ninety feet high, are the grandest. They dined at the tavern, and towards evening returned to Utica.

[_Travels_ (chapter VI continues):

At Utica, seven of us for nine dollars hired a stage to visit the
Falls of Trenton, distant fourteen miles. Our passengers were partly
from New York, and partly from the state of North Carolina. We
crossed the Mohawk upon a covered wooden bridge, built in a bad and
awkward manner, on which I observed an advertisement, "that all
persons who pass this bridge on horseback or wagon faster than a
walk, shall be fined one dollar." After this, our road gradually
ascended to a forest, which was, however, in part cleared for new
fields. The timber is so much neglected here, that they will very
probably feel the want of it in less than fifty years. At a short
distance from the falls of West Canada Creek is a new tavern, which
is situated in a lately cleared forest, and is built entirely of
wood. At this tavern we left the carriage, and went on foot through
thick woods, from which a pair of stairs conduct to the falls....
This beautiful mass of green, the azure sky, the large and
variegated rocks, and the three falls, produce a most happy effect.
The rocks at these falls, which, on account of the great heat,
scarcely extended over half the river, are so excavated by the
water, that they have the form of a common kettle. The upper falls,
which are about ninety feet high, are the grandest.... At the tavern
where we had put up, we found a tolerably good dinner, and towards
evening returned to Utica.]

The day was fine and pleasant. They regretted that it was too late, upon their return thither, to visit a hydrostatic lock designed to weigh the boats which pass on the canal. Having seen enough of the canal, and being anxious to see the newly-settled country between this place and Niagara, they continued their journey the next day in the stage coach. With this intention they left Utica at four o'clock in the morning, and the same day arrived at Auburn, distant seventy-three miles. They passed through twelve villages on their route from Utica to Auburn. Between Manchester and Vernon day dawned, and they found themselves in a rather wild country, in the midst of a wilderness.

[_Travels_:

The day was fine and pleasant. The thunder-storm of yesterday, had
done some good. I regretted that it was too late upon our return to
Utica, to visit a hydrostatic lock, designed to weigh the boats
which pass on the canal.

Having seen enough of the canal, and being anxious to see the
newly-settled country between this place and Niagara, we determined
to continue our journey on the next day in the stage-coach. With
this intention we left Utica at 4 o'clock in the morning of the 17th
of August, and the same day arrived at Auburn, distant seventy-three
miles.... The villages between Utica and Auburn were New Hartford,
four miles, Manchester, five miles, Vernon, eight miles, Oneida,
five miles, Lenox, four miles, Sullivan, eight miles, Manlius, six
miles, Jamesville, five miles, Onandago Hollow, five miles, Onandago
Hill, two miles, Marcellus, eight miles, and Skeneatelass, six
miles.

Between Manchester and Vernon day dawned, and we found ourselves in
a rather wild country, in the midst of a wilderness.]

Behind the village of Oneida, the road led along a considerable hill, from which they had a beautiful view of Oneida lake, which presented the appearance of a large stream. Here there were a number of extensive prospects, which, however, as there was but little cultivated land and few houses, were rather uniform. Something further on, after they had left Oneida, they came to a small lake, called Salt Lake, which is in the midst of a forest, and has on its banks three picturesquely situated towns, Liverpool, Salina, and Syracuse. At Salina are rich salt springs, the water of which is collected in reservoirs, and it is evaporated by the heat of the sun to procure the salt. Beyond Sullivan they passed through the village of Chitteningo. A branch of the Erie canal forms a kind of harbour at this place. They dined at Manlius, a new village. From the canal, which forms an angle here, they drove in a southerly direction in order to keep on the plains. The two Onondago villages are pleasant places.

[_Travels_:

Oneida is an Indian settlement, and....

Behind this village the road led along a considerable hill, from
which we had a beautiful view of Oneida Lake, which presented the
appearance of a large stream. Here you have a number of extensive
prospects, which, however, as you see but little cultivated land and
few houses, is rather uniform. Farther on we saw a small lake called
Salt Lake, which is in the midst of a forest, and has on its banks
three picturesquely situated towns, Liverpool, Salina, and Syracuse.
At Salina are rich salt springs, the water of which is collected in
reservoirs, and it is evaporated by the heat of the sun to procure
the salt. Beyond Sullivan we passed through the village of
Chitteningo. It contains several mills, a cotton factory, and a
branch of the Erie Canal, which forms a kind of harbour, and serves
as a landing place for articles manufactured here, and for the
plaster and lime which are procured in the neighbourhood. This lime
becomes hard under water, so that it is excellently adapted to
waterworks. We dined at Manlius, a new village.... From the canal
which forms an angle here, we drove in a southerly direction, in
order to keep on the plains, as the main road, which is nearer,
leads over a hill. The two Onondago villages appear to be
flourishing manufacturing places, and are pleasantly situated.]

Beyond Marcellus the night unfortunately closed in, which prevented their seeing Skaneateles Lake, as well as the town of the same name. About nine o'clock in the evening they arrived at Auburn, and found good accommodations at one of the public houses.

[_Travels_:

Beyond Marcellus the night unfortunately closed in, which prevented
me from seeing Skeneatelass Lake, as well as the town of the same
name, which is said to be extremely pleasantly situated on one of
its banks. About nine o'clock in the evening we arrived at Auburn,
and found good accommodations at one of the public houses.]

At four o'clock next morning they again set out in the stage coach for Rochester, distant sixty-nine miles. It was just day-light when they arrived in the vicinity of Cayuga, on the lake of the same name. This lake empties into the Seneca river, which afterwards unites with the Mohawk. They crossed the lake, not far from its mouth, on a wooden bridge one mile in length. On the opposite side of the lake is a large toll-house. At a short distance from this they arrived at Seneca Falls, so called in consequence of the little falls of the Seneca river, which are close by, and are chiefly formed by a mill-dam. Beyond Waterloo the road in some places was made of logs, so that the passengers were very disagreeably jolted. Geneva is situated at the north point of Seneca Lake. The town derives its name from its similarity of situation to Geneva in Switzerland. The Franklin hotel, situated on the bank of the lake, is both spacious and beautiful.

[_Travels_:

This town contains upwards of one hundred and fifty houses, a
court-house and penitentiary, which is said to be managed in a very
excellent manner. To my regret I saw none of them; for at four
o'clock the next morning, 18th of August, we set out in the
stage-coach for Rochester, distant sixty-nine miles....

It was just daylight as we arrived in the vicinity of Cayuga, on the
lake of the same name, which is about twenty miles long,
and from one to three wide. This lake empties into the Seneca
river, which afterwards unites with the Mohawk. We crossed
the lake not far from its mouth, on a wooden bridge, one mile in
length, eighteen yards wide, and built in a very rough and careless
manner: the planks are loose and the _chevaux-de-frise_ is in a bad
condition. On the opposite side of the lake is a large toll-house.
At a short distance from this we arrived at Seneca Falls, so called
in consequence of the little falls of the Seneca river, which are
close by, and are chiefly formed by a mill-dam. At the tavern we met
an Indian and his wife....

.... The country beyond Waterloo was boggy, and the road in some
places made of large logs, so that we were very disagreeably jolted.
Geneva is situated at the north point of Seneca Lake, which is
between fifty and sixty miles long and about five wide. The town
derives its name from its similarity of situation to Geneva in
Switzerland. It is also quite new, and contains about four thousand
inhabitants. It has two churches and several large stone and brick
houses, of which the Franklin Hotel, situated on the bank of the
lake, is the most spacious and beautiful....]

Canandaigua, which lies on the north point of the lake of the same name, is an extremely pleasant town. The court was sitting here, and there was a large collection of people, so that the town exhibited a very lively appearance. At this place the road separates, the left goes through Batavia and several small villages to Buffalo on Lake Erie; the right to Rochester, and thence to Lake Ontario and the Falls of Niagara. And as this road again approaches the Erie canal, it was said to be the most interesting; on this account it was given the preference, though the longest route.

[_Travels_:

Canandaigua, which lies on the north point of the lake of the same
name, which is about twenty miles long, is an extremely beautiful
and pleasant town, that has been but lately settled.... The court
was sitting, and there was a large collection of people, so that the
town exhibited a very lively appearance. At this place the road
separates, the left goes through Batavia and several small villages
to Buffalo on Lake Erie; the right, to Rochester, and thence to Lake
Ontario and the Falls of Niagara: and as this road again approaches
the Erie canal, it is said to be the most interesting. On this
account we gave it the preference, although the longest route.]

They left Canandaigua in the afternoon, and rode through Victor, Mendon, and Pittsford, to Rochester. They arrived at Rochester at half-past eight o'clock in the evening, and took lodgings at the Eagle tavern. They crossed the Genessee river, which divides Rochester into two parts, on a wooden bridge built firmly and properly, and the next morning walked through the town. Several hundred yards below the bridge the Genessee river is about two hundred yards wide, and has a fall of ninety-five feet. Above the falls is a race which conducts the water to several mills, and it again flows up into the river below the falls, where it forms three beautiful cascades.

Rochester is one of the most flourishing towns in the state of New-York. At this place the Erie canal is carried over the Genessee river by a stone aqueduct bridge. This aqueduct, which is about one hundred yards above the Genessee Falls, rests upon a slate rock, and is seven hundred and eighty feet long.

[_Travels_:

We left Canandaigua in the afternoon, and rode through Victor,
Mendon, and Pittsford, to Rochester. On this route we observed
nothing particularly interesting....

We arrived at Rochester at half past eight o'clock in the evening,
and took lodgings at the Eagle Tavern. We crossed the Genesee river,
which divides Rochester into two parts, on a wooden bridge, the
first that we had hitherto met in the United States that was built
firmly and properly. It rests upon stone piers, and is made of solid
beams, with thick and well fastened planks. The next morning we
walked through the town, and were pleased with its rapid increase.
In 1812, there was not a single house here; nothing but a
wilderness; and the land could be purchased at one dollar and
twenty-five cents per acre. At present, Rochester is one of the most
flourishing towns in the state of New York.... Several hundred yards
below the bridge the Genesee river is about two hundred yards wide,
and has a fall of ninety-five feet, which at present, however, did
not appear to much advantage. Above the falls is a race which
conducts the water to several mills, and it again flows into the
river below the falls, where it forms three beautiful cascades,
which reminded me of the Villa di Macen, at Tivoli.

At Rochester the Erie canal is carried over the Genesee river by a
stone aqueduct bridge, and resembles that of the Bridgewater
canal at Manchester, in England. This aqueduct, which
is about one thousand yards above the falls, rests upon a base of
slate rock, and is seven hundred and eighty feet long....]

[[_Alida_ was written after the Erie Canal was enlarged and the
Rochester aqueduct relocated. So "one hundred" and "one thousand"
may both be correct, apart from the underlying anachronism.]]

The party now left Rochester at nine o'clock, and went on board the canal packet-boat Ohio. The canal, between Lockport and Rochester, runs the distance of sixty-three miles through a tolerably level country, and north of the Rochester ridge. This ridge consists of a series of rocks, which form the chain of mountains which commences north of Lake Erie, stretches eastward to the Niagara river, confines it, and forms its falls; then continues its course, and forms the different falls which are north of Lake Ontario, and is at length lost in the neighbourhood of the Hudson. The canal runs a distance through sombre forests, when they reached Lockport on the 20th of August, about seven o'clock in the morning. At this place the canal is carried over the ridge by five large locks, through which the water is raised to the height of seventy-six feet. The locks are ten in number, being arranged in two parallel rows, so that while the boats ascend in one row, they may descend at the same time in the other.

[_Travels_:

We left Rochester at nine o'clock, on board the canal packet-boat
Ohio, Captain Storch. The canal, between Lockport and Rochester,
runs a distance of sixty-three miles, through a tolerably level
country, and north of the Rochester ridge. This ridge consists of a
series of rocks, which form the chain of the mountains which
commences north of Lake Erie, stretches eastward to the Niagara
river, confines it, and forms its falls, then continues its course,
and forms the different falls which are north of Lake Ontario, and
is at length lost in the neighbourhood of the Hudson. It has only
been within the last year that this part of the canal has been
passable; its course is through dense sombre forests....

We reached Lockport on the 20th of August, about 7 o'clock in the
morning. At this place the canal is carried over the ridge
by five large locks, through which the water is raised to the height
of seventy-six feet. The locks are ten in number, being arranged
in two parallel rows, so that while the boats ascend in one row,
they may descend at the same time in the other. Through this
arrangement the navigation is greatly facilitated, and the whole
work, hewn through and surrounded by large rocks, presents an
imposing aspect.]

Lockport is an extremely pleasant place, and is situated just above the locks. At Lockport they took a dearborn for Buffalo, where they were anxious to go, in order to see the union of the canal with Lake Erie. Though a good stage runs between Lockport and the Falls of Niagara, they went in this bad vehicle five miles to the navigable part of the canal. They then took passage in a boat at Cottensburgh. At this place also, the canal is cut through a rock to the depth of about thirty feet. About two or three miles farther on it terminates in the Tonawanta creek, which serves as a canal for twelve miles. The creek is about fifty yards wide, and runs through a dense and beautiful forest.

[_Travels_:

Lockport, to which we repaired, while the boat was left in the basin
at the foot of the locks, is an extremely interesting place, and is
situated just above the locks....

At Lockport we took a dearborn for Buffalo, where we were anxious to
go, in order to see the union of the canal with Lake Erie. Though a
good stage runs between Lockport and the Falls of Niagara, we went
in this bad vehicle five miles, to the navigable part of the
canal.... The village where we went on board, is called
Cottensburgh, and is quite a new settlement. At this place also the
canal is cut through rocks to the depth of about thirty feet. About
two or three miles farther on, it terminates in the Tonnawanta
Creek, which serves as a canal for twelve miles.... The creek itself
is about fifty yards wide, and runs through a dense and beautiful
forest, which has never been touched by the axe, except along the
canal, where they have been obliged to make a tow-path....]

At the new town of Tonawanta, the creek unites with the Niagara river, where the sluice leads off. At this place also Alida and her company had the first view of the Niagara river, which conveys the waters of Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, from the other extremity of which flows the St. Lawrence. In this river they observed Grand Island. During the late war, the Niagara, it is well known, formed the boundary line between the United States and the British provinces in Upper Canada, and this island bore testimony of the conflict.

[_Travels_:

.... not far from this junction was the site for the new town of
Tonnawanta. A few small houses and a saw-mill were already erected;
the inhabitants appeared also to suffer much from the intermittent
fever. Here the Tonnawanta Creek, unites with the Niagara, where the
sluice which we have just mentioned leads off. At this place also we
had the first view of the Niagara river, which conveys the waters of
Lake Erie into Lake Ontario, from the other extremity of which flows
the St. Lawrence. In the river we observed Grand Island.... during
the late war between England and the United States, the Niagara, it
is well known, formed the boundary line between them and the British
provinces of Upper Canada, and this island bore testimony of the
bloody conflict.]