Chapter X: Part 10

The principal stitches used in guipure d'art are POINT D'ESPRIT, POINT DE TOILE, POINT DE FESTON, POINT DE REPRISE, POINT DE BRUXELLES, and WHEELS and STARS. POINT D'ESPRIT is worked with finer cotton than the foundation, say No. 10 on a foundation of No. 6. It consists of a succession of small loops, as will be seen clearly in the illustration. The learner should begin from the mark * No. 503, and working a row of loops the length required, turn the frame and work loops on the opposite half of each square intersecting the first worked loops in the centre of each intervening bar of netting. A careful examination of Nos. 503 and 506 will explain this more clearly than is possible in words.

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POINT DE TOILE, or LINEN STITCH, is plain darning under and over each thread; this forms a fine close groundwork, and is much used in guipure d'art. Care should be taken to keep the same number of stitches in each square, both along and across; the number of threads shown in illustration No. 504 is 4 only, but 6 and even 8 are used in many netted foundations in fine patterns.

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POINT DE FESTON is worked by a series of overcast stitches, as seen by illustration 506, which clearly shows the manner of working. The frame is turned at each stitch, the stitches are taken across the squares, and increase in length at the top of the square.

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POINT DE REPRISE, or DARNING, is worked by stretching 2 or 3 threads over 1, or 2, or more squares. The thread is darned over and under, and the needle used to arrange the last stitch while passing through to form the next. This stitch is very easily acquired. It is always worked with coarser thread than the foundation; No. 2 thread should be employed for a coarse groundwork. No. 510 shows this stitch used to form stars, figures, &c.

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POINT DE BRUXELLES, as shown on pages 506 and 507, is a kind of loose button-hole stitch, and is used for forming various patterns and for filling up squares. It also forms "leaves," when the number of stitches is decreased each row until the leaf finishes off in a point. Nos. 509 and 510 clearly show this stitch.

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WHEELS are easy to work, and are begun in the centre. Four threads are taken across, as shown in design No. 511; the thread is twisted in bringing it back to the centre, and the wheel formed by passing the thread under and over the netting and the crossing threads. It is fastened off on the back of the several wheels.

Wheel No. 513 is a square wheel, and is worked in the same manner, with the addition of point d'esprit loops, through which, and under and over the cross-twisted threads, 4 or 5 rows of thread are passed.

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STARS are of various form, as shown in Nos. 516, 517, 518, 519, and 520.

No. 516 is worked in point de feston (see page 507) round a single square hole, which is filled in by a small wheel or rosette.

No. 517 is worked in point de feston and point de Bruxelles, alternately round a centre simply crossed by point d'esprit threads.

No. 518 is more elaborate, and is worked thus:--Begin at the place marked _a_; twist the linen thread 3 times round the nearest thread, draw it on to the knot _b_; repeat this 3 times, following the order of the letters; twist the linen thread also between the threads, as can be seen from the illustration, and fasten it underneath the knot _a_; for the wheel fasten on the cotton afresh and work the remaining pattern in darning stitch (point de reprise).

No. 520 consists of a double cross formed by twisted loops of linen thread. Copy these loops exactly from illustration 520 One part of the straight cross lies underneath, then comes the slanting cross, and lastly, the other part of the straight cross.

In the centre the loops of linen thread are fastened with two rounds of stitches. (See illustration 520).

OVERCAST STITCH is worked like embroidery overcast, and forms the stems of the flowers and leaves of guipure d'art; it is worked over one or two coarse threads. It is employed in No. 530, and forms the triangles in the centre of the middle squares.

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521.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art._

Materials: Guipure frame netting of 6 holes wide; Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10; needle No. 7.

For the netted foundation, which is six holes wide, begin at one corner with 2 stitches, work 5 rows, at the end of each of which increase 1 stitch, continue to work the strip with the same number of stitches, alternately decreasing 1 at the end of one row and increasing 1 at the end of the next. For decreasing net 2 stitches together, for increasing net 2 stitches in the same hole. When the strip is sufficiently long, complete it by decreasing in the same proportion as the increasing at the beginning. As the pattern is so clearly shown in the illustration, it will be very easy to work from it. It is worked in point de feston and star wheels; the border is in point d'esprit. The insertion is finished on either side with a row of button-hole stitches.

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522.--_Lace Border in Guipure D'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 10.

This border may be used for various purposes; it makes a pretty edging for toilet cushions if worked in fine thread, and looks equally well for trimming couvrettes, &c., in No. 2 thread. The netting is nine holes wide, the stitches employed are point d'esprit and point de feston, the edge is in button-hole stitch, the netted ground is cut away outside the scallops.

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523.--_Square for D'Oyley_

Materials: Frame; 1 square of netting; Mecklenburg reel thread Nos. 8 and 10; needle No. 6.

This square may be used to form part of a couvrette, or a d'oyley, or pincushion. The three other corners of the square are worked exactly like the one seen in illustration; the rosette in the centre is shown in full size. The square is worked in point d'esprit, linen stitch, and point de reprise. Each of the leaves of the foliage is worked in one hole of the netting; they are worked by throwing the cotton three times across the hole, and working darning stitch on them. The stem is worked in overcast on the thread of the netting. The daisy in the centre is worked like the leaves, each leaf taking up one or more holes of the netting.

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524 _and_ 525.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 for couvrettes, No. 8 for pillow-cases, No. 16 for lace edgings.

These corner borders are suitable for pillow-cases or small couvrettes; the stitches worked on these patterns are linen stitch, darning stitch, point de Bruxelles, and wheels. The edge is formed by button-hole stitches. The netting is cut away after these are worked.

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526.--_Strip of Insertion in Guipure d'Art._

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.

This strip of insertion is 8 stitches wide, and is worked in zigzag lines of point de feston, with a border of point d'esprit and point de toile; a four-point star occupies the centre of the triangle left by the zigzag line. This pattern is so easy to work that it hardly needs description, the only part requiring care being the squares of point de feston; these are begun in the centre, and the thread should be drawn rather tightly so as to form a good square.

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527.--_Small Square_.

Materials: Frame; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 4, 6, or 8 for the netting, and No. 16 for the pattern.

Work over a mesh measuring 2-1/10 inch round the foundation of each square, which has seven stitches in length, and as many in breadth. It is embroidered in darning stitch, and point d'esprit, and wheels. The outer edge is worked round in button-hole stitch. Larger squares are worked in the same manner, only a few rows larger in length and breadth. The squares are fastened together with a few stitches, and sewn on the pincushion or any article they are intended to ornament.

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528.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8, or 16 for very fine work.

This strip of insertion is very pretty, and can be used for all kinds of lingeries. The size of the material depends, of course, on the use to be made of the insertion. The guipure pattern is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit, the raised leaves in darning stitch. The edges are worked round with button-hole stitches.

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529.--_Rosette in Guipure d'Art._

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 6.

This rosette is worked in point de toile and small wheels. A larger wheel occupies the centre, and is ornamented with a round of overcast.

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530.--_Quarter of a Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: One guipure frame; Mecklenburg thread Nos. 6 and 12; needle No. 7.

This pattern shows, in full size, one quarter of a square in guipure d'art. The outer border is in point d'esprit, then comes a border in linen stitch. There are large stars in the corners; these stars are worked in raised darning stitch only, and fastened on the netting at the points of each brand; in the centre of the star there is a wheel (see No. 515) edged with button-hole stitch. The pattern for the centre, one quarter of which only is seen in the illustration, consists of 4 branches forming small triangles in point de Bruxelles, 4 open-worked stars or wheels worked over 4 holes of the netting, and a four-branched centre of point de feston with a wheel in the middle.

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531 _and_ 532.--_Square Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s linen thread No. 2 for the netting, and their Mecklenburg thread for the guipure stitches No. 8.

No. 531. The outer border of this pretty square is worked in point d'esprit, the inner border in point de toile; then follows a round of small wheels or rosettes.

For these, fasten the cotton to one of the knots of the first square stitch of this round, work one loop upon each of the three other knots, so as to form a slanting cross; then work round the centre point of the cross, passing alternately under and over its branches, then twist the cotton over the threads of the foundation until the next square is reached, and begin another wheel.

The centre of No. 531 is composed of wheels and point de reprise; the pattern round the centre is worked in point de feston, differing a little from that given on pages 505 and 506, but the illustration clearly shows the difference.

No. 532 has similar borders to No. 531; the centre is occupied by a star (see page 512) in point de feston; four large wheels surround this; the square stitches between are filled with small wheels and with groups of long loops, fastened together in sheaves. Point d'esprit and point de toile, worked one way only, complete this square.

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533 _to_ 536.--_Four Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 2 or 16, according to the size of the work.

These four patterns will be found useful for filling up small squares, or for varying the usual groundwork of point d'esprit.

No. 533 is a succession of point de feston stitches, which half fill each square of the netting. This pattern must be worked with great regularity.

No. 534 consists of a kind of double point d'esprit.

No. 535 is a thread twisted and taken _across_ each square, and resembles lace stitches.

No. 536 is a succession of small close wheels, intermingled with point d'esprit. This grounding is very effective.

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537.--_Lace Border for Veils, &c_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16; strip of square netting of the required length; oblong frame.

This simple border is easily and quickly worked. The edge is overcast, the ground worked in point d'esprit, the border in point de toile, and the pattern in point de reprise. When completed the netting is cut away from the overcast edge.

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538 _and_ 538_a_.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: 2 squares of netting of 8 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10 or 16, according to the fineness required.

These squares are very pretty for cravat ends, cuffs, or handkerchiefs. They are worked on netting with very fine cotton in the usual manner, beginning on two stitches in one corner The different stitches of the guipure darning can be distinctly seen in illustration, and are point de feston, point de reprise, point de toile, and point d'esprit on No. 538, and the same stitches surround a wheel in No. 538_a_.

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539.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 8 to 16; strip of netting length, required.

This insertion is worked in point de toile, and wheels worked in point de feston. The ground in point d'esprit.

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540 _and_ 541.--_Square in Guipure Point de Venise (Reticella)_

Materials: Coarse or fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 4 or 12.

This square is worked in the so-called point de Venise, together with other squares; it is very pretty for covers, toilet cushions, &c. It is worked on coarse or fine linen, according to the use you wish to make of it. Prepare a square piece of linen, by drawing out long and cross threads, so as to form perfect squares. In the pattern No. 540, which is worked on fine linen, 28 threads have been drawn out, both the long and cross way; 8 squares are formed in this way each time that 28 threads have been drawn out; leave 7 or 8 threads of the ground, which form the framework. Then fasten the piece of linen on cardboard, and work close button-hole stitch round the inner edge Then work with darning stitch over the long and cross threads of the ground.

From No. 541, which shows the fourth part of the square 4 times larger than full size, it is easy to see how the framework is darned. When the latter is entirely darned, work the patterns in the different squares in button-hole stitch. The circular and serpentine patterns consist of 3 rows of button-hole stitch; the patterns which imitate whole rosettes and half rosettes are worked in rows of button-hole stitch. For each row the thread must be first drawn from one place to the other, as can be seen in illustration, and fastened on the framework. The knots in the last button-hole stitched row are made by working in each stitch when completed, another stitch, and drawing the cotton again through the first completed knot. It is easy, however, to work all the patterns from No. 541. The dotted lines in the right-hand corner show the direction of the patterns which are wanting there. The square is edged all round with an open-work hem, which can also be worked from No. 541.

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542 _and_ 543.--_Corner Patterns in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.

These patterns are very pretty for cushions, handkerchiefs, &c. The netted ground is to be worked from the corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, linen, and darning stitch, as can be seen in illustration.

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544.--_Flower for Ornamenting Cravats and Caps in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Black or coloured silks, or Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 10.

This pattern is worked with middle-sized light-coloured purse silk in guipure d'art on netting. This pattern can also be worked with white thread or black silk in point de reprise.

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545.--_Work Basket with Covering of Darned Netting_.

Materials: Bamboo cane basket; blue satin; cardboard; netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 16.

This elegant basket is made of bamboo cane and blue satin, fastened on cardboard, and covered with guipure d'art. The stand of varnished bamboo is twelve inches long, seven and a half inches wide, and five and a half inches high. The case inside is made of cardboard, covered on both sides with blue satin, and the guipure d'art on the outside only. The stitches used are point de toile, point de reprise, and point d'esprit.

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546 _and_ 547.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12 or 20; and point d'esprit according to the fineness required.

Both these square patterns are suitable for ornamenting lingerie, cravats, collars, &c. Repeated at regular intervals on a larger centre, they are likewise suitable for couvrettes, cushions, pillow-cases, &c.; they are worked in darning and linen stitch.

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548.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Strip of netting 6 holes wide, and of the required length; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 12.

This simple insertion consists of double rows of wheels worked at each side of a strip of point d'esprit, an edge of button-hole stitches being worked between the rows.

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550 _and_ 551.--_Squares for Antimacassar_.

Materials: Square of netting of 12 holes; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's Mecklenburg thread No. 8.

No. 550 is very quickly worked. The border and groundwork in point d'esprit, the centre star in point de reprise, the pattern in point de toile. Wheels fill in the four holes in the centre of the squares.

No. 551 has a border in point d'esprit, the star is worked in point de feston, the other stitches are point de toile. Wheels in part of star pattern No. 518.

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552 _and_ 553.--_Borders in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8 or 16.

These corner borders are very suitable for couvrettes, and, worked with fine thread, for pocket-handkerchiefs. The netted ground of the borders is to be worked in the size seen in illustration; for the border No. 553 darn the ground in button-hole stitch, darning stitch, point d'esprit, and point de feston; the pattern No. 552 is worked in linen stitch and point d'esprit; small wheels are also to be worked. Both borders are to be worked round in button-hole stitch; the netted ground is cut away along the outside.

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554 _and_ 555.--_Squares in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20; netted squares of 7 and 8 holes.

These two small squares are suitable for ornamenting cravats, lappets for caps and lingeries. They are worked in darning and linen stitch. The centre part of the square, No. 554, is a small wheel covered with raised stitches.

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556.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

The centre of this square is worked in point de feston as well as the border; point de toile forms the groundwork of the square in the centre, round which a row of button-hole stitch is worked.

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557.--_Insertion in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Strip of netting of 4 holes in width; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

The ground of this simple pattern is worked in point d'esprit, square wheels are worked in the centre of the strip.

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558 _to_ 563.--_Different Strips of Insertion, Rosettes and Lace, in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Fine white cotton; Messrs. Waiter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread Nos. 16 and 20.

These strips of insertion, rosettes, and borders are very suitable for ornamenting lingeries, cravats, &c. The ground of insertion, Nos. 558 and 560, is worked with fine white cotton over a fine steel knitting-needle, in slanting netting, and darned with thread in the manner seen in illustrations. The ground of each strip is 11 rounds wide, and worked with button-hole stitch along the edges; the darned patterns can be worked from illustration.

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For the rosette, No. 560, cast on 6 stitches over a fine knitting-needle, and join the stitches into a circle; in the 1st round work 2 stitches in every stitch. In the 2nd--5th rounds work 2 stitches in every increased stitch of the preceding round, and in every other stitch 1 stitch. In the 6th round take a steel knitting-needle double the size of the first, and work over it 1 stitch in every stitch of the preceding round. Then work the 7th round over the fine needle as follows:--

Draw always the second stitch of 2 stitches through the first, and work 1 stitch in the stitch which has been drawn through the first, and then 1 stitch through the other stitch. In the 8th round work always 2 stitches in the stitch between the 2 crossed stitches, 1 stitch in all the other stitches. Lastly, darn the rosette, from illustration, with fine glazed cotton.

For the ground of the rosettes, illustrations Nos. 562 and 563, cast on 6 stitches, join the stitches into a circle, and work then in the 1st round 2 stitches in every stitch; in the following 8 rounds 2 stitches in every increased stitch, in all the other stitches 1 stitch. The last (10th) round is worked without increasing. Then darn the rosettes, from illustrations, with thread in darning stitch, linen stitch, and point d'esprit. The edges of the two rosettes are worked round in button-hole stitch; in every selvedge stitch work 3 button-hole stitches. These two rosettes can be joined together for small couvrettes.

The ground of the border, No. 561, is formed by a strip of straight netting 9 squares wide, cut out in vandykes on one side, and worked round in button-hole stitch, as seen in illustration. This ground is darned, from No. 561, in darning stitch, point d'esprit, linen stitch, and ornamented with bars and wheels (See illustration).

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564 _and_ 565.--_Corner Borders in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20 for handkerchief, or No. 8 for couvrettes.

These corner borders are suitable for handkerchiefs, couvrettes, &c., or as strips of insertion for cushions or pillow-cases. They are worked with more or less fine cotton, according to the use they are meant for. They are edged round with button-hole stitch on the outside, and finished off with a row of crochet purl. Work 1 double in every button-hole stitch; after every other stitch draw out the loop on the needle about one-tenth of an inch; take out the needle and leave the loop as a purl; take up 1 loop in last double stitch, and cast it off with the next double stitch.

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566.--_Jewel Case, forming Pincushion_.

Materials: Deal box; satin ruche; satin ribbon; quilted satin and silk cord; guipure netting.

This case consists of a square cardboard or deal box, lined with satin, and slightly quilted; it is also covered on the top with satin, and ornamented all round with a satin ruche four-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in the manner seen in illustration. The top of the box is stuffed so as to form a pincushion. It is then covered with guipure d'art No. 567. Ornament all round with silk cords, and at the corners with bows of satin ribbon.

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567.--_Guipure Pattern for Jewel Case_.

Materials: Netting 25 holes square; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 14.

This cover is worked in point d'esprit, point de toile, point de reprise, and point de feston. Thick dots are introduced occasionally.

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568.--_Parasol Cover in Guipure d'Art. (Seepage 580.)_

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 20, and cotton No. 80.

For working this cover, one part of which is shown in our illustration two-thirds of its full size, work first a straight strip of netting for the foundation, which must count as many holes in width as are required for the width of the covering. The size of the holes depends on the size of the knitting-needle or mesh which you use. The pattern is worked with cotton No. 80, over a steel knitting-needle which measures two-fifths of an inch round. Begin the strip in one corner. Cast on 2 stitches, and work in rows backwards and forwards, increasing 1 stitch at the end of every row, till you have 1 stitch more than the stripe is to have holes in width, on our pattern 68 stitches; then work 1 row on the same number of stitches, and then increase alternately 1 stitch at the end of 1 row, and decrease 1 at the end of the next, till the strip is 250 stitches long. The strip is finished off in a straight line at the bottom by working a certain number of rows in which the last stitch remains untouched. At the beginning of the row do not work 1 stitch ever the mesh, but only 1 knot in the stitch of the preceding row, so that the cotton is drawn on tight. When the strip is completed, trace from No. 568 the outlines for the pattern of each of the eight parts of the parasol with double thread, in such a manner that two parts lie next to each other, but reversed, that is, the point of one part must lie next to the wide part of the next part. Then work in each part the pattern seen in illustration, and afterwards each part round with button-hole stitch, working over the double outline. Cut out the different parts, and sew them together on the wrong side with close overcast stitch.

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569.--_Scent Sachet in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 18; green satin; poudre d'iris; green satin ribbon; green silk cord.

The size of the netting depends on that of the sachet. The netting must be fastened in a frame, and darned with fine thread; the flowers are worked in darning stitch, and the ground in point d'esprit. The cushion is made of green satin, perfumed with poudre d'iris. When the netting has been fastened on, it is edged all round with a green satin ruche, and green silk cord, forming loops at every corner.

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570.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Netted square of 26 stitches; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12.

This pattern is worked in point d'esprit, edged with an outline of point de reprise. This outline may be worked in close button-hole stitch. Point de toile is used for the groundwork, upon which point de reprise is worked.

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571 _and_ 572.--_Work Case in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Blue satin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 16; blue silk cord.

This little work-case, of darned netting and blue satin, is five inches and four-fifths long, four inches wide, and is fastened with a loop and button. The back, front, side, and the flap are worked all in one piece. The netting is worked with white thread No. 12, over a mesh measuring at least two-fifths of an inch round. For the flap the netting must be slanted off on both sides; this is done either by decreasings, or by cutting off the corners of the work. The latter is then darned in linen stitch, darning stitch, and point d'esprit, from No. 572, which shows the front of the case, and from No. 571, which shows the back. The netting is then lined with blue satin, and sewn together at the sides with button-hole stitches on the right side. The flap is edged with button-hole stitch; sew on a small button, and make a small loop to correspond. The case is edged all round with blue silk cord.

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573.--_Banner Screen in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Netting; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; carved oak stand; glace silk; cords; tassels.

Banner-screens are used in two ways, either suspended from the mantelpiece or mounted as shown in illustration No. 573. The banner is 23 inches long, 19 inches wide, lined with coloured glace silk, and edged with a lace border of guipure d'art. The design for the banner is given in page 554. Work the netting for the groundwork over a larger or smaller mesh, according to the size you wish it to be. The pattern is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, and point de toile. When the pattern is completed, line the banner with coloured silk, edge with a gathered border of guipure d'art, finish with coloured silk cords and tassels. The banner may be finished off in close button-hole stitch, instead of adding the lace border.

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575.--_Border in Guipure d'Art_.

Material: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 8.

This border is suited for couvrettes. It is worked in point d'esprit, point de reprise, or plain darning stitch, edged by a row of button-hole, and finished with a crochet edging.

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576.--_Square in Guipure d'Art_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Mecklenburg thread No. 12; netted square of 20 holes.

This pretty square is worked in a pattern formed by point de feston, point de toile, and point de reprise, the star in the centre as that shown on page 514, omitting the alternate points; border of point d'esprit, ground worked in simple crossed bars.

Table of the right size of Mecklenburg thread to use in working:--

|----------------------------------|--------------| | | No. | |----------------------------------|--------------| | Antimacassars | 2 | | Borders | 4 | | Handkerchiefs | 20 | | Insertions | 8 | | Lace edgings and insertions | 16 | | Lamp shades | 16 | | Parasol covers | 18 | | Sachets | 12 | | Sofa cushions | 8 | | Toilet cushions | 10 | | Toilet mats | 10 | |----------------------------------|--------------|

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FRAMES

May be obtained for large, middle-size, and small squares.

Oblong frames are used for working insertions and lace edgings.

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BERLIN WORK

INSTRUCTIONS.

Berlin Work includes every kind of stitch which is made upon canvas with wool, silk, or beads. The principal stitches used are common cross stitch, Gobelin stitch, leviathan stitch, raised or velvet stitch, tent stitch, and others. The materials and needle must always be carefully chosen of a corresponding size. For common cross stitch and raised stitch Penelope canvas must be used; for small articles, such as slippers, bags, or borders, single Berlin wool is preferable; for larger ones fleecy wool or double Berlin wool (the latter, however, is much more expensive). For Gobelin stitch and tent stitch undivided canvas (not Penelope) is required. Purse silk is often used for the latter; it is more brilliant than floss silk or filoselle. Floss silk is generally used for other stitches because it covers the thread of the canvas better than purse silk; it is, however, often replaced by filoselle, which is a much cheaper material. Moss wool is hardly ever used. Before beginning to work upon a piece of canvas the raw edges must be hemmed or sewn over with wool. Care must be taken not to crumple the canvas in the course of the work. It is best to roll one end of the canvas upon a round piece of deal while the other end is kept down upon the table with a lead cushion. Handsome artistic patterns should always be worked in a frame. When you undertake to work a large pattern begin in the centre, and complete one half before you commence the other. Always work the stitches in the same direction, from the top downwards--this is very essential to the beauty and regularity of the pattern.

Always begin with the colour which is used the oftenest; those colours that lose their dye in working must be put in last. When the pattern is finished begin the grounding. The wool must not be drawn too tightly, otherwise the threads of the canvas appear. If the wool is too coarse for the canvas, one long stitch is to be made from left to right as far as the particular colour is to be worked, and over this long stitch, cross back in the usual way.

The plainest stitch in Berlin wool work is the common cross stitch; illustrations 577 to 584 show varieties of the same.

We now proceed in the following pages to show, by description in writing and by most careful illustration, all the stitches which are used in Berlin Work. These are numerous, but neither too great in number nor too simple or too elaborate in execution for those who aspire to become Berlin workers.

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ILLUSTRATION 577.--The common cross stitch is worked in rows backwards and forwards over 2 threads in height and 2 in width (square of the canvas) in straight lines; the 1st row is worked from left to right; the 2nd row, which completes the stitches, from right to left. Illustration 577 shows 2 rows of completed stitches and 1 row in course of working.

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ILLUSTRATION 578 shows the long cross stitch. It is worked like the preceding one, only over 4 threads in height and 2 in width.

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ILLUSTRATION 579 shows a long cross stitch, which is worked like the preceding one, except that 2 threads are missed between 2 stitches, and in the next row the stitches are worked between those in the preceding row. This stitch is not worked in rows backwards and forwards; each stitch is completed before beginning the next.

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ILLUSTRATION 580.--The long slanting cross stitch is worked like No. 578, in rows backwards and forwards; the 1st row is slanting, the 2nd is straight. The places for inserting the needle and for drawing it out are marked on the illustration with a cross and dot.

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ILLUSTRATION 581.--The damask stitch is worked in single rows from left to right, over 4 threads in height and 2 in width. The stitches of one row come between those of the next. The cross and dot shown in illustration are where to insert and draw out the needle.

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ILLUSTRATION 582 shows the rep stitch--a variety of the preceding. The first half of it is worked slantways over 6 threads in height and 2 in width, the second half, like the common cross stitch, from right to left over the 3rd and 4th of the 6 canvas threads; each stitch is completed at once. The illustration shows the last stitch being worked; the first half of the stitch is completed; the dot shows where the needle must be inserted for the second half; it is drawn out where the cross is placed on illustration.

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ILLUSTRATION 583.--The leviathan stitch consists of 1 slanting and 1 straight cross stitch over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Each stitch is completed immediately. No. 583 shows one half of the stitch completed and the wool as it must be placed for working the first half of the straight cross stitch.

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ILLUSTRATION 584.--The leviathan stitch is worked exactly like the preceding, only the stitches are not worked on the same threads in the different rows, as may be seen from illustration.

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ILLUSTRATION 585.--The double leviathan stitch is a variety of the preceding; it is worked over 6 threads in height and as many in width. Make a common cross stitch over these 6 threads, then a long cross stitch in height and a long cross stitch in width. Illustration 585 shows 2 stitches completed and 1 being worked.

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ILLUSTRATION 586.--Tent stitch. Each stitch is worked over 1 stitch in height and 1 in width, and is worked in rows from left to right.

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ILLUSTRATION 587.--The slanting Gobelin stitch is worked on undivided canvas; each stitch is worked over 3 threads in height and 2 in width, divided from the next stitch only by an interval of 1 thread.

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ILLUSTRATION 588.--The straight Gobelin stitch is worked over 2 threads in height with 1 thread between, so that the stitches appear more raised; they are worked over thin cord or a thick piece of wool.

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ILLUSTRATION 589.--The raised or velvet stitch is worked over small round wooden meshes, and forms small raised loops. Take 2 similar meshes and as many threaded needles as there are colours in the work; make first a slanting stitch, as for the beginning of the common cross stitch, but instead of drawing out the needle straight under the place where it was inserted, draw it out exactly at the same place, so as to form a slanting stitch on the right and on the wrong side; then begin to work over 1 mesh; insert the needle above it and draw it out in a slanting direction underneath. On the wrong side of the work a regular cross stitch is formed. Illustration 589 shows 2 rows of velvet stitch completed and 2 rows being worked; the first of the latter is yet on the mesh, the second being worked so as to show the position of the wool upon the mesh. Observe that the rows of the velvet stitch are worked upwards, and that 2 meshes are necessary, because the lower one must not be drawn out before the next row is completed. The loops may be cut open if preferred.

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ILLUSTRATION 590.--The plaited stitch is worked like the herring-bone stitch. Each stitch is worked over 4 threads in height and 4 in width. Illustration 590 shows one part of the plaited stitch completed, and the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch is marked by a dot. For the next stitch the needle is carried under the 2 threads below the stitches of the preceding row.

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ILLUSTRATION 591.--The plush stitch is also worked upwards. Begin to work a common cross stitch, then insert the needle through the canvas over 2 threads in height and 2 in width, downwards in a slanting direction. Do not draw the wool close up, but leave a loop hanging down about four-fifths of an inch long, and make 1 more common cross stitch to fasten the loop. This stitch can also be worked over flat meshes. Work a common cross stitch at the end of every row. When the work is completed the loops are cut open and clipped, as may be seen from illustration.

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ILLUSTRATIONS 592 to 594.--Three Berlin wool work borders for trimming baskets, &c. No. 592.--The 2 outer rows which edge the border are worked in long straight cross stitch; each stitch is crossed in the centre with a back stitch.

The grounding consists of 2 rows of vandykes placed opposite each other, which are formed of long straight stitches of different lengths. The squares in the centre are formed in the same way, and are completed in the middle with a knot. No. 593.--The ground is worked in cross stitch, the raised patterns in satin stitch; in the middle of each pattern there is a cross stitch. The outer rows are worked in half cross stitch over 2 threads in height and 4 in width in 2 different shades. No. 594.--The petals of the flowers are worked over 4 threads in height and in width, and consisting of 4 slanting stitches.

In the centre the flower is completed by a knot; the ground in cross stitch is completed on either side by a narrow border of scallops, formed of slanting stitches divided in the centre by 1 slanting stitch. It is easy to work these stitches from illustration. The choice of colours depends upon what use the border is intended for and upon personal taste.

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PLATES

INDEX.

ACACIA SPRAY in embroidery, 162.

Antimacassar, crochet, 276.

Antimacassar in tatting, 65.

Antimacassar, knitted, 318 to 320.

Applique, pattern for a couvrette in, 213 to 215.

Arm-chair, covered with crochet, 254.

Arm-chair in crochet, patterns for, 255,256.

BABY'S BOOT, knitted, 326.

Bag, crochet silk, over rings, 245.

Banner screen in guipure d'art, 573, 574.

BARS, POINT LACE.

D'Alencon, 463.

Point d'Angleterre, 467.

Point de Venise, edged, 468.

Point de Venise, dotted, 469.

Raleigh, 471, 472.

Sorrento, 461, 462.

Sorrento, dotted, 469.

Venetian, plain, 464, 465, 466.

Basket, small, crochet, 239.

Basket, crochet, 272.

Basket, crochet, 273.

Basket, embroidered in chenille, 134.

Bedford plaited lace (1851), 423.

Bed-quilt, knitted border for, 327.

BERLIN WOOL-WORK INSTRUCTIONS, p. 559.
Berlin work, borders in, 592 to 594.

BERLIN STITCHES.

Common cross stitch, 577.

Damask stitch, 581.

Leviathan stitch, 583, 584.

Leviathan double stitch, 585.

Long cross stitch, 578, 579.

Plaited stitch, 590.

Plush stitch, 591.

Raised or velvet stitch, 589.

Rep stitch, 582.

Slanting cross stitch, 580.

Slanting Gobelin stitch, 587.

Straight Gobelin stitch, 588.

Tent stitch, 586.

(Black lace) Buckingham point trolly (1851), 422.

Bodice, knitted, 324, 325.

Boot, baby's, knitted, 326

Borders, crochet, 252, 253

Border, embroidered, 150.

Border for a reading-desk in embroidery, 204.

Border for couvrettes, guipure d'art, 561.

Borders for handkerchief, corner, in guipure d'art, 564, 565.

Borders, guipure d'art, 552, 553, 557.

Border, guipure d'art, 575.

Border in crochet and tatting, 52.

Border in Oriental embroidery, 179.

Border in tatting and crochet, 6.

Border in tatting and crochet, 15.

Border in tatting and crochet, 22.

Border in tatting and lace stitch, 44.

Border in tatting, with beads, 13.

Border in tatting, with crochet edging, 5.

Border, knitted, 321.

Border, tatting, 47.

Borders, two crochet, 274, 275.

Border, with beads, tatted, 13.

Bouquet, embroidered, for travelling-bag, 169.

Braces, embroidered, 202.

Braces, knitted, 338.

Brioche cushion in crochet, 249.

Butterfly, embroidered, for handkerchief corner, 212.

CAP, border for, in tatting, 38.

Cap crown in tatting, 37.

Cap in tatting, 38, 39.

Chenille, basket embroidered in, 134.

Cigar-case, embroidered, 190.

Circle for collars, cuffs, &c., in tatting, 21.

Circle in tatting, 12.

Circle in tatting, 21.

Circle in tatting, 57.

Collar in tatting, 56.

Collar in tatting and darned netting, 28.

Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 49.

Collar, linen, trimmed with tatting, 54.

Collar, pine pattern, in tatting, 1.

Collar, tatted, 55.

Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 49.

Collar, trimming for, in tatting, 54.

Comforters, &c., knitting stitch for, 336.

Convolvulus leaf insertion in embroidery, 141.

Corner borders in guipure d'art, 524, 525.

Corner borders in guipure d'art, 542, 543.

Corner borders in guipure d'art, 564, 565.

Corner for handkerchief in point Russe embroidery, 149.

Corner in embroidery, 151.

Corner in embroidery, 152.

Cotton, tatting, page 82.

Couvrette, centre of a tatted, 25.

Couvrette, daisy pattern for a, in crochet, 250.

Couvrette for arm-chair in crochet, 257.

Couvrette in applique, embroidery, 147.

Couvrette in crochet, 240 to 243.

Couvrette in tatting, 25.

Covering for a quilted counterpane in embroidery, 138.

Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 184.

Cravats, &c., in embroidery, patterns for, 185.

Cravat in tatting, 50.

Cravat end in embroidery, 136.

Cravat end in embroidery, 153.

Cravat end in raised embroidery, 156.

Cravat end in tatting, 60.

Cravat end in tatting, 62.

Cravat end in tatting and darned netting, 64.

Cravat end, oval, in tatting, 51.

Cravat in muslin and tatting, 50.

Cravat, muslin, embroidered, 153.

Crochet, antimacassar in, 276.

Crochet, arm-chair covered with, 254.

Crochet, arm-chair, patterns for, 255, 256.

Crochet bag, silk, over rings, 245.

Crochet basket, small, 239.

Crochet basket, 272.

Crochet basket, 273.

Crochet borders, 252, 253.

Crochet borders, two, 274, 275.

Crochet, brioche cushion, 249.

Crochet, couvrette for arm-chair, 257.

Crochet, couvrette in, 240 to 243.

Crochet, daisy pattern for a couvrette in, 250.

Crochet D'Oyleys in Imitation of Point Lace.

No. 1, 262.

No. 2, 263.

No. 3, 264.

No. 4, 265.

No. 5, 266.

No. 6, 267.

No. 7, 268.

No. 8, 269.

No. 9, 270.

No. 10, 271.

Crochet garter, 285.

Crochet, insertion, 258.

Crochet, insertion, 259.

Crochet, insertion, 260.

Crochet, insertion, 277.

Crochet, insertion, 283.

Crochet, insertion, 284.

CROCHET INSTRUCTIONS.

Crochet hook, page 185.

Foundation chain, double, 217.

Foundation chain, plain, 216.

Foundation chain, purl, 218.

Spots, raised, 232.

Spots, hollow, 233.

Spots, open work, 234.

Crochet, lace, 251.

Crochet, lace, 261.

Crochet, purse in, over rings, 248.

Crochet rosettes, 280, 281.

Crochet sovereign purse, 246.

Crochet, star in, 244.

Crochet, stars in, 247.

CROCHET STITCHES.

Cross stitch, 224.

Cross treble stitch, 229, 230, 231.

Double long treble stitch, 228.

Double stitch, 220, 221.

Long double stitch, 225.

Long treble stitch, 227.

Purl stitch, 236.

Purl stitch, 237.

Purl stitch, 238.

Raised treble stitch, 235.

Raised ribbed stitch, 222.

Raised slanting stitch, 223.

Slip stitch, 219.

Treble stitch, 226.

Crochet trimming for a lady's chemise, 286.

Crochet trimming, with embroidered flowers worked in
applique and velvet ribbon, 282.

Crochet work, tobacco-pouch in, 278, 279.

Crochet work, work-basket in straw and, 272, 273.

Curtains, knitted pattern for, 339.

Daisy pattern for a crochet couvrette, 250.

Dalecarlian lace, 419.

Diamond in tatting, 20.

Diamond in tatting, 36.

Diamond in tatting, 53.

Diamond in tatting, 59.

Diamond netting, 306.

Diamond tatting for collars, &c., 20.

D'Oyleys, Crochet, in Imitation of Point Lace.

No. 1, 262.

No. 2, 263.

No. 3, 264.

No. 4, 265.

No. 5, 266.

No. 6, 267.

No. 7, 268.

No. 8, 269.

No. 9, 270.

No. 10, 271.

D'Oyley, knitted, 337.

EDGINGS AND PURLED EDGINGS, POINT LACE.

Antwerp, 479.

Point d'Angleterre, 477.

Point de Bruxelles, 474,

Point d'Espagne, 478.

Point de Venise, 476.

Sorrento, 475.

Edging, embroidered, 178.

Embroidered border, 204.

Embroidered border, 150.

Embroidered bouquet for travelling bag, 169.

Embroidered braces, 202.

Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 201.

Embroidered braces, full-sized pattern for, 203.

Embroidered butterfly for handkerchief corner, 212.

Embroidered cigar-case, 190.

Embroidered edging, 178.

Embroidered handkerchief, 197.

Embroidered hanging letter-case, 176.

Embroidered in chenille, basket, 134.

Embroidered key-bag, 182.

Embroidered key-bag, 183.

Embroidered knife-basket, 159.

Embroidered knife-basket, 160.

Embroidered lace insertion, 207.

Embroidered lady's purse, 157.

Embroidered letter-case, pattern for, 177.

Embroidered linen collar, 193.

Embroidered linen collar, 194.

Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 166.

Embroidered needle-book, pattern for, 167.

Embroidered penwiper, full-sized circle for, 187.

Embroidered slipper, on Java canvas, 208.

Embroidered slipper, point russe stitch for, 209.

Embroidered what-not, in the shape of a hammock, 195, 196.

Embroidery, acacia spray in, 162.

Embroidery and stitching, insertion in, 132.

Embroidery, applique, couvrette in, 147.

Embroidery border for a reading-desk, 204.

Embroidery, border in Oriental, 179.

Embroidery, convolvulus leaf insertion in, 141.

Embroidery, corner for handkerchief in point Russe, 149.

Embroidery, corner in, 151.

Embroidery, corner in, 152.

Embroidery, covering for a quilted counterpane in, 138.

Embroidery, cravat end in, 136.

Embroidery, cravat end in, 153.

Embroidery, cravat end in raised, 156.

Embroidery, fuchsia spray in, 161.

Embroidery, glove-box in, 174.

Embroidery, glove-box in, 175.

Embroidery, handkerchief border in, 197.

Embroidery, handkerchief in, 140.

Embroidery, insertion in, 131.

Embroidery, insertion in, 142.

Embroidery, insertion in, 145.

Embroidery, insertion in, 146.

Embroidery, insertion in, 155.

Embroidery, insertion in, 165.

Embroidery, insertion in, 188.

Embroidery, insertion in, 189.

Embroidery, insertion in, 192.

EMBROIDERY INSTRUCTIONS, p. 83.

Bead partly covered, 103.

Blossom in satin stitch, 101, 102.

Bluebell, 113.

Bluebell, inner part, 114.

Bluebell, part of, 116.

Borders, 118, 119.

Ear of corn, 112.

Flower, 115.

Flower in satin stitch, 107.

Flower appliqued on net, 117,

Heartsease, 110.

Initials, 123 to 130.

Insertions, 120 to 122.

Leaf, 94.

Leaf in raised satin stitch, 90, 91.

Leaf, raised, 92, 93.

Leaf, raised, 95.

Leaf, half of, 99.

Leaf, centre of, 100.

Raised embroidered leaf, 98.

Raised flower, 111.

Raised leaf, 96.

Raised leaf, 97.

Raised satin stitch leaf, 90, 91.

Rose in satin stitch, 108.

Rose, petal for, 109.

Star, 106.

Star in point de reprise, 105.

Star in satin stitch, 104.

STITCH, EMBROIDERY.

Stitch, back, 70.

Stitch, button and eyelet holes, 86, 87.

Stitch, button-hole scallop, 82 to 85.

Stitch, double overcast, 67.

Stitch, knotted, 73, 74, 75.

Stitch, ladder, 80, 81.

Stitch, overcast, 68.

Stitch, point croise, 71, 72.

Stitch, point de minute, 79.

Stitch, point de plume, 78.

STITCH, EMBROIDERY--_continued_.

Stitch, satin, raised, 76, 77.

Stitch, scallop, 66.

Stitch, shaded button-hole, 88, 89.

Stitch, slanting overcast, 89.

Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 198.

Embroidery, medallion for a purse in, 199.

Embroidery, medallion in point Russe, 210.

Embroidery, medallion in point Russc, 211.

EMBROIDERY, MONOGRAMS AND INITIALS IN.

Embroidery, alphabet in coral stitch, 353.

Embroidery, alphabet in floral, 361.

Embroidery, alphabet in florid style, 356.

Embroidery, alphabet in forget-me-nots, 352.

Embroidery, alphabet, point d'or, 357.

Embroidery, alphabet, raised satin stitch, 359.

Embroidery, alphabet in satin stitch, 351.

Embroidery, alphabet scalloped, 355.

Embroidery, alphabet, small, 354.

Embroidery, initials in, 366 to 417.

Embroidery, monograms in, 366 to 417.

Embroidery, names in, 362 to 418.

Embroidery, sampler in, 360.

Embroidery, star alphabet, capitals, 349.

Embroidery, star alphabet, small, 350.

Embroidery, white, alphabet in, 358.

Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 135.

Embroidery, pattern for collars, cuffs, &c., in, 137.

Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 184.

Embroidery, pattern for cravats, &c., in, 185.

Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 133.

Embroidery, pattern for cravat ends, &c., in, 139.

Embroidery, pattern for trimming lingeries in, 143, 144.

Embroidery pattern for what-not (full size), 196.

Embroidery, penwiper in, 186, 187.

Embroidery, rose-leaf in, 173.

Embroidery, sandwich-case in, 154.

Embroidery stars, 137, 143, 144.

Embroidery stars, 180, 181.

Embroidery, table-napkin ring in, 158.

Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 163.

Embroidery, tobacco-pouch in, 164.

Embroidery, travelling-bag in, 168.

Embroidery, trimming in, for bodices, 170.

Embroidery, Venetian border in, 206.

Embroidery, Venetian, lappet or sash end in, 205.

Embroidery, waste-paper basket in, 191.

Embroidery, white, toilet-cushion cover in, 171, 172, 173.

Embroidery, wing of bird, 172.

Embroidery, work-bag in, 200.

Embroidery, wreath in, for centre of pincushion or toilet-mat, 148.

English netting, 308

Fichu, netted, 315, 316.

Flower in guipure d'art, 544.

Frame for guipure d'art 503.

Full-sized circle for embroidered pen-wiper, 187.

Fuchsia spray in embroidery, 161.

Garter, crochet, 285.

Glove-box in embroidery, 174.

Glove-box in embroidery, 175.

Gauge, knitting, 287.

Guipure d'art.

Guipure d'art, banner-screen in, 573, 574.

Guipure d'art, border for couvrettes in, 561.

Guipure d'art t, borders for handkerchief, corner, 564, 565.

Guipure d'art, borders in, 552, 553, 557.

Guipure d'art, border in, 575.

Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 524, 525.

Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 542, 543.

Guipure d'art, corner borders in, 564, 565.

Guipure d'art, flower in, 544.

Guipure d'art, frame for, 503.

Guipure d'art, insertion in, 521.

Guipure d'art, insertion in, 526.

Guipure d'art, insertion in, 528.

Guipure d'art, insertion in, 539.

Guipure d'art, insertion in, 548.

Guipure d'art, insertion in, 558.

Gaipure d'art, insertion in, 559.

Guipure d'art, insertions, &c., in, 558 to 563.

Guipure d'art, instructions in, p. 503.

Guipure d'art jewel-case cover, 567.

Guipure d'art, jewel-case covered in, 566.

Guipure d'art, lace borders for veils in, 537.

Guipure d'art, lace border in, 522.

Guipure d'art, parasol-cover in, 568.

Guipure d'art, quarter square in, 530.

Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 529.

Guipure d'art, rosettes in, 562, 563.

Guipure d'art stitches.

Grounding, 533 to 536.

Point de Bruxelles, 509, 510.

Point d'esprit, 504.

Point de feston, 506.

Point de reprise, 507, 508.

Point de toile, 505.

Stars, 516 to 520.

Wheels, 511 to 515.

Guipure d'art, scent-sachet in, 569.

Guipure d'art, small squares, 527.

Guipure d'art, squares for antimacassar, 550, 551.

Guipure d'art, square for d'oyley in, 523.

Guipure d'art, squares in, for dresses, 546, 547.

Guipure d'art, square in, 531.

Guipure d'art, square in, 532.

Guipure d'art, square in, 556.

Guipure d'art, squares in, 570, 576.

Guipure d'art, squares in, 533 to 536.

Guipure d'art, squares in, 538, 538a.

Guipure d'art, squares in, 554, 555.

(Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, 540.

(Guipure d'art), square in reticella work, enlarged, 541.

Guipure d'art, work-basket covered with, 545.

Guipure d'art, work-case in, 571, 572.

Handkerchief border in embroidery, 197.

Handkerchief in embroidery, 140.

Hanging letter-case embroidered, 176.

Honiton guipure lace, 424.

Insertion, crochet, 258.

Insertion, crochet, 259.

Insertion, crochet, 260.

Insertion, crochet, 277.

Insertion, crochet, 283.

Insertion, crochet, 284.

Insertion in embroidery, 131.

Insertion in embroidery, 142.

Insertion in embroidery, 145.

Insertion in embroidery, 146.

Insertion in embroidery, 155.

Insertion in embroidery, 165.

Insertion in embroidery, 188.

Insertion in embroidery, 189.

Insertion in embroidery, 192.

Insertion in embroidery and stitching, 132.

Insertion in guipure d art, 521.

Insertion in guipure d'art, 526.

Insertion in guipure d'art, 528.

Insertion in guipure d'art, 539.

Insertion in guipure d'art, 548.

Insertion in guipure d'art, 558.

Insertion in guipure d'art, 559.