Chapter IV: Part 4

In No. 164 the outer border is yellow, the knots black, the small pattern at the top is of blue cloth edged with yellow; the pipes of white cloth edged with blue and shaded with grey. The bundle of cigars is of brown cloth, shaded with black silk stitches, and fastened on with double rows of chain stitch in yellow silk. The cigar-case is of light green cloth, edged with white; the Grecian pattern and dots are embroidered over it with white silk also.

To make up the pouch, cut out the four pieces and join them together by seams, which are hidden under yellow soutache; cut out also and join in the same way four pieces of white kid for the lining, and fasten it on to the crimson cloth at the top only. Sew small brass rings round the top, and pass a double piece of crimson silk cord through them. Add silk tassels of various colours at the bottom of the pouch, and at each of its four corners.

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165.--_Insertion_

Materials: Linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

This strong and simple insertion is useful for petticoat trimmings. It is worked in button-hole stitch; the stems in overcast stitch; the circles can be filled up with lace stitches or with wheels, or the pattern may be worked upon Brussels net and the linen cut away.

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166.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, Workbaskets, &c._

Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; glace silk; gold beads.

This pattern is worked in French embroidery and point Russe, with coloured purse silk on silk or cashmere. The thimble, cotton, and ribbon are worked in applique with glace silk. The colours are chosen according to personal taste. The thimble is ornamented with small gold beads. A bead is placed in the centre of each pair of scissors to imitate the screw.

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167.--_Embroidery Pattern for Ornamenting Needlebooks, &c._

Materials: Coloured purse silk; silk or cashmere; beads.

The shuttlecocks are worked in raised satin stitch; the feathers in point Russe; the battledores in very thickly raised double overcast; the interior is filled with a netting worked in chain stitch or dotted stitch; the flowers are worked in satin stitch and beads; the ribbon is embroidered in applique, with a contrasting shade of silk ribbon.

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168 _and_ 169.--_Travelling Bag_

Materials: 20 inches of Java canvas; single Berlin wool of 2 shades of a pretty green; 2 shades of bronze colour and white; floss silk--white, brown, and 2 shades of yellow; purse silk--black, yellow, cerise, blue, and grey; steel beads; brown silk fancy braid.

This pattern is of the ordinary shape of travelling-bags, but it is very prettily worked. Besides the engraving showing the bag when completed, the bouquet in the centre in full size is given. This bouquet is also worked upon the Java canvas. For each petal the white wool is passed several times from one stitch of the canvas to another till the required thickness is obtained, then 1 stitch is worked at the point with white silk. The centres are filled up in point d'or with 2 shades of yellow silk. The buds are made like the petals, but with 3 stitches of white silk at the point instead of 1. The leaves are worked in 2 shades of green wool with 1 stitch of brown silk in the centre; the stems are embroidered in overcast with light brown wool. The scroll-pattern border round the bouquet is made with brown fancy braid put on with steel beads.

The remaining space outside this border is worked in coloured purse silk. The 1st outline of the squares is worked in black silk, by inserting the needle in and out of the stitches of the canvas. When you have worked all the square thus, 12 stitches one from the other, work on either side, at one stitch's distance, the outlines of yellow silk, which are worked in back stitch, two strips of the Java canvas being covered by each stitch. Next to the inner yellow outline comes a border worked over two strips of the canvas, in slanting stitches; this border is alternately blue in one square and grey in the other. A star is embroidered in point Russe in the centre of each square; it is grey in the blue squares and blue in the grey; a steel bead is placed in the middle of each star. The small crosses between the squares are worked in cerise. The outer border of the work is composed of a piece of black soutache, edged with a tiny trefoil pattern in cerise silk. The front and back pieces of the bag are worked in the same manner. The side pieces are made of plain Java canvas. The embroidered part measures 14 inches in its widest part, and is 11 inches deep. The bag is lined with light brown silk, and made up with a steel clasp.

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170.--_Embroidery Trimming for Muslin Bodices_.

Materials: Fine muslin; fine black silk; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This pattern is very easily worked, and looks very nice for a trimming. It is worked on fine white muslin; the border is worked in button-hole stitch with white cotton; these scallops are covered with loose button-hole stitch in black silk. The feather-like branches are worked likewise in black silk in herring-bone stitch. The white spots are worked in raised embroidery. The large oval openings through which a narrow ribbon velvet is drawn are worked round with button-hole stitches:

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171, 172, _and_ 173--_Toilet Cushion Cover in White Embroidery_.

This handsome embroidery pattern is to be worked on fine muslin; if lined with coloured silk or satin it is very effective. The patterns, which are covered white dots on illustration, are worked in point d'or; the outlines of these patterns are worked in fine double overcast. The flower-leaves and wings of birds, which appear raised on illustration on account of the dark shadows, are worked separately and sewn on at the corresponding places. No. 172 shows the wing of a bird, No. 173 a rose-leaf somewhat increased in size; the former is worked entirely in button-hole stitch, or trimmed with a ruche of coloured ribbon. This pattern may also be worked on glace silk with purse silk.

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174 _and_ 175.--_Glove Box_.

Materials: 15 inches of French blue cashmere; silks of various colours. A shape in bamboo cane, painted brown and varnished.

The ornamentation of this box is both novel and tasteful. It is embroidered in coloured silks, upon light blue cashmere. Part of the embroidery pattern is given in full size. All the outlines are worked in overcast, the stitches being made rather long and slanting, and the small leaves are each composed of one stitch, as in point Russe. The leaves are alternately red and yellow upon a green stem; the scalloped outline which has no leaves is red. The pine patterns are worked in satin stitch--the centre one is green, edged with red; the side ones are pink, edged with red; the small wing-like figures are black, edged with maize; the diamond, maize, edged with black, with an outer rim of maize. In the round pattern the centre is pink; the edge red, with red and yellow leaves; the 3 outer circles are successively white, green, and red; at the top the centre branch is yellow, the leaves red and yellow, the side ones are green, with the leaves pink and green.

The strip of embroidered cashmere is lined with blue silk, slipped through the bamboo-canes of the mounting, and joined together at the side by a seam. The cover is lined with plain blue cashmere, upon which initials might be embroidered at discretion. The four corners are ornamented with pretty silk tassels, of colours to match with the embroidery. To fasten the box, sew on a blue ribbon to the cover, and one to the box.

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176 _and_ 177.--_Hanging Letter Case_.

Materials: Crimson velvet; white satin beads; gold soutache; and fine gold bouillon.

No. 176 shows the letter case when completed in a reduced size, No. 177 the principal part of the embroidered pattern in full size.

The letter case is composed of two parts. The larger part is 11 inches long, 8 inches wide; it is ornamented on the upper part with a pattern in gold soutache, and the word LETTERS or LETTRES embroidered in gold bouillon; underneath there is a pattern embroidered in oval white satin beads, edged round with fine white chenille; the scroll pattern is embroidered in gold bouillon.

The second part is placed over the lower part of the first, and forms the pocket which contains the letters. The centre flower is composed of 11 oval beads, edged round with white chenille; another white bead is placed in the centre, and edged with gold bouillon. The other flowers are also composed of white satin beads, edged with gold bouillon.

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178.--_Embroidered Edging_.

Materials: Muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24

This edging is worked in broderie Anglaise or overcast stitch; the edge in scallop button-hole stitch; the ovals and dots in raised satin stitch. The stems are worked in slanting overcast stitch (No. 122, _Embroidery Instructions_).

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179.--_Border in Oriental Embroidery_.

Materials: Purse silk of the following shades:--dark red, bright red, 2 shades of green, 2 of blue, 2 of yellow violet.

The four ovals placed together are worked of four contrasting colours. These ovals are composed of two rows of chain stitch. The outer row of the first oval is dark red, and the inner one bright red. Following the same arrangement, the second oval is of two shades of green; the third of two shades of blue; and the fourth of two shades of yellow. The knotted stitch in the centre is violet. The dots outside the ovals are worked in satin stitch, and are alternately red, yellow, violet, and blue. The stems are long stitches of black silk. The arabesque patterns between those formed of four ovals are worked in chain stitch with silk of two shades of brown. The colours of the ovals may be varied as much as you please, but the brown shades of the arabesque patterns should remain the same for the whole of the border.

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180 _and_ 181.--_Embroidery Stars_.

Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These stars are designed for medallions, to be worked on linen collars and cuffs. No. 180 is worked in successive rows of back-stitching, round an open wheel; ladder stitch (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_) is worked round this, and a raised scallop in button-hole stitch forms the edge.

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No. 181 is worked in raised satin stitch; the interior of the star is filled with lace wheels.

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182 _and_ 183.--_Key Bag_.

Materials: Grey kid; grey silk; steel-coloured glace silk; purse silk of 5 shades of blue-green, 4 shades of brown, and silver-grey, scarlet, and white; grey silk cord; grey glace silk ribbon.

This bag is made of grey kid, and lined with grey silk. The embroidery imitates on one side a key formed of poppies, leaves, and stems, in the upper part of which sits an owl, "the

bird of night." The poppies are worked with blue-green purse silk in 5 shades; the plumage of the owl is worked with brown silk of 4 shades in satin stitch, the colours blending one into the other, as can be clearly seen in illustration No. 182. The eyes of the owl are embroidered in scarlet and white silk. Illustration No. 183 shows the other side of the bag, which is ornamented with steel-coloured silk applique figures, in the form of a Gothic lock. They are edged with fine grey silk cord. The screws of the lock are imitated in satin stitch embroidery with silver-grey silk. After having lined each part, join the two halves of the bag with a border of grey glace silk ribbon, which must, of course, continue round the revers. The bag is fastened by means of a loop and steel button.

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184 _and_ 185--- _Embroidery Patterns for Trimming Cravats, Bodices, Morning Caps, &c._

Materials: Muslin or cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s No. 24 for lingerie, No. 12 for couvrettes.

These patterns, worked on muslin or cambric, are suitable for trimming various articles of lingerie; joined on to other squares they make pretty covers. They can also be embroidered with coloured silk, wool, or thread, on cloth, rep, or cashmere, for trimming couvrettes and toilet pincushions. The patterns should be embroidered in satin stitch and edged with chain stitch; they can also be worked in button-hole stitch. When the pattern is worked on woollen material this material must be cut away inside the leaves and spots.

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186 _and_ 187.--_Pen-Wiper in Cloth Applique_.

Materials: 4 circles of black cloth; 1 large white, 4 small white, and 4 red circles of cloth; 4 white and 4 red stars of cloth; small black beads; gold and black purse silk; small ivory handle or figure.

This pretty little pen-wiper is covered with small circles of cloth. No. 187 is one of these circles seen in full size. There are 4 white and 4 red ones, and they are pinked out round the edge. In the centre of each red circle place a white, and in the centre of each white circle a red star, and work a cross over it with small round black beads. The border, in herring-bone stitch, is worked with gold-coloured purse silk on the red, and with black on the white cloth. The centre of the pen-wiper is covered with a circle of white cloth larger than the side ones, worked in point Russe and point Mexico in black silk. When all the circles are prepared, sew them neatly on to a round piece of red cloth, placing alternately 1 white and 1 red, so as to overlap one another, and between each a circle of black cloth, also pinked out round the edge. The work is then fastened upon a round of cardboard lined with black glazed calico, and a

small handle of carved ivory, or an ivory figure, is fixed in the centre. The circles of black cloth are used to wipe the pens.

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188.--_Insertion_.

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 30.

The flowers of this insertion are embroidered in raised satin stitch round an open eyelet hole, worked in overcast stitch the stars are worked in point Russe stitch; the four eyelet holes which surround each flower, in overcast stitch; and the edge is finished with a row of hem-stitching on each side.

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189.--_Insertion_.

Materials: Fine muslin; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 24.

This insertion is entirely embroidered in raised satin stitch; the dots and stems should be worked first, and the leaves afterwards. It is edged on both sides with a row of hem-stitching.

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190.--_Cigar Case_.

Materials: Russia leather; fine silk cord; black purse silk; gold thread.

The material of this cigar case should be finely-embossed light brown Russia leather; the centre pattern to be embroidered in well-raised satin stitch with black purse silk. All the lighter outlines shown in the illustration are worked in gold thread. The border to be worked in fine silk cord of the same colour as the leather, with a network of black purse silk, stitched with gold at all the crossings. On the opposite side of the cigar case

initials may be worked. The lining of light brown watered silk, or fine leather, and the mountings gilt or steel.

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191.--_Wicker Waste Paper Basket_.

Materials: Basket and stand; coloured Berlin wools; cloth fringe; and glazed calico.

The basket may be of any size, but of the shape of the pattern. It rests upon two brass hooks fastened upon a stand. This stand can be made by any joiner, and should match the furniture of the room. The trimming consists of an embroidered border, lined with glazed calico, and put on round the edge; the lower part of the border is trimmed with a woollen fringe. The shades selected should correspond with the prevailing colour of the room.

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192.--_Insertion_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 16.

The edge of this insertion is worked in raised button-hole stitch, and embroidered in sharply-pointed scallops; the dotted line is worked in raised satin stitch, as are also the flowers which compose the centre wreath; the eyelet holes are worked in overcast stitch.

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193 _and_ 194.--_Embroidered Linen Collars_.

Materials: Double linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

These patterns are to be worked on linen taken double. No. 194 is worked in button-hole, satin, and knotted stitch (see Nos. 81, 82, 76, and 73 of _Embroidery Instructions_), and point d'or with white cotton, and point Russe with black silk. No. 193 is worked entirely with white cotton in button-hole, satin, knotted ladder, and overcast stitch. (See Nos. 82, 76, 73, 81, and 68 of _Embroidery Instructions_.)

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195 _and_ 196.--_What-not_.

Materials: Fine canvas; 3 shades of violet floss silk; 4 shades of green floss silk; sea-green wool, or floss silk; 1 skein of yellow floss silk; green chenille; cord and tassels.

This small what-not or jewel-stand is very elegant. It is meant to place upon the toilet-table. No. 195 shows the hammock when completed, No. 196 one-half of the embroidery pattern in full size; it is worked upon fine canvas. The violets are in floss silk of three shades of violet, with a raised spot worked in yellow silk in the centre, the leaves are worked in Berlin wool of various shades of green, and the stems in overcast of a light green shade. The pattern is grounded in tent stitch with sea-green silk. The hammock is composed of two sides and an under-piece cut out in cardboard, covered with the embroidered canvas outside, lined and quilted with plain green silk inside. It is edged round the top with green chenille. The mounting is composed of bamboo-canes; the hammock is fastened on to it with green silk cord, finished off with tassels.

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197.--_Embroidered Handkerchief_.

Materials: Grass lawn or French cambric; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 40.

This embroidery pattern is worked between the borders of a handkerchief, which may be either of French cambric or grass lawn. The design is simple, but effective, and very easy to work. If worked on fine French cambric, the handkerchief should be lightly tacked upon _toile ciree_. The rows of raised dots should be worked first, and then the graceful branches of pointed leaves in satin stitch. The plain round dots might be worked in bright red marking cotton in either of the patterns. To produce a good effect, rather fine cotton must be selected, and No. 40 will be found very effective on either lawn or cambric. For mourning wear, this pattern should be embroidered with black filoselle, or the leaves can be worked in white cotton, and the dots in filoselle.

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198 _and_ 199.--_Two Medallions for a Purse in Embroidery_.

Materials: Light brown russia leather; black, scarlet, and gold silk; steel or gold clasp.

These medallions are intended to ornament a small purse, but may be employed on a variety of articles.

The raised spots of No. 198 should be worked in black silk, in satin stitch, the branched sprays in point Russe in scarlet and gold, the four largest being in scarlet and the intermediate sprays in gold silk. Medallion No. 199 is worked entirely in point Russe, and may be embroidered in one colour, or in alternate branches of scarlet and gold, or scarlet and black.

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200.--_Work-Bag_.

Materials: Drab cloth; small pieces of cloth of different colours; embroidery silk of different colours; scarlet satin; red silk braid; red cord; cardboard; cotton wool; and a strap of light-coloured leather.

This work-bag is made in the shape of a rolled-up plaid. The outside consists of drab cloth, trimmed with applique embroidery. The inside of the bag is slightly wadded and lined with red satin, which is quilted in diamonds. The seams are covered with red braid, and a leather strap completes the whole. Cut out a good pattern in paper, and then cut the satin and wadding and the drab cloth which forms the outside. After having traced the pattern on the cloth, work it with small pieces of coloured cloth in applique embroidery. The different figures are sewn over the centre partly in point Russe, partly in button-hole stitches, with embroidery silk. The stems in the middle are worked with silk in chain stitches. The colours may be chosen according to taste. Cut a pattern in cardboard, and fasten the drab cloth on it. The edge must be bordered with red satin, and the satin lining must be sewed in. The ends of the bag are likewise cut out of cardboard; the inside is wadded and lined with red satin; the outside worked in applique embroidery like the rest of the bag. All the seams are covered with red silk cord. The straps are fastened with a few stitches, as seen in the illustration.

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201 _to_ 203.--_Pattern for Braces_.

Materials: Java canvas; black silk; red wool; calico.

These braces are made of Java canvas lined with calico ornamented with embroidery in black silk and red wool, and edged on either side with loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes in red wool. Illustration 201 shows part of the embroidered braces, full size. Work first the embroidery of the braces, then line them with calico; work loose button-hole stitch and crochet vandykes on all the edges of the cross bands as well as at the top and bottom of these strips, and sew on the tabs for the braces between the lining and the canvas. The latter are then edged with button-hole stitch and crochet-vandykes. The vandykes are worked as follow--in one row: 1 double in 1 button-hole stitch, * 1 purl (3 chain, 1 double in the 1st), missing the next button-hole stitch under it; 1 double in the following button-hole stitch, repeat from *. The tabs are made of tape worked round with red button-hole stitch, with button-holes worked with red cotton. No. 203 shows another

way of working these braces on fine ribbed pique. Work any Berlin wool work pattern in the common cross stitch over the ribs of the pique. For the vandyke border work in every other button-hole stitch, 2 double divided by 3 chain stitches.

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204.--_Embroidery Border for a Reading-Desk_.

Materials: White silk rep; black velvet, rep, or cloth; gold and silver brocade; gold and silver braid; silk cord and thread.

This pattern is embroidered on white silk rep with silver and gold thread, and sewn on over a black velvet, rep, or cloth centre. The dark patterns are worked in applique with black velvet, the two other shades in gold and silver brocade. The embroidery is worked in satin stitch with gold and silver braid, silk and cord of the same material. The border can also be worked upon the material for the centre if it is not intended to contrast with it. The pattern can also be worked entirely in silk with satin stitch. The size of the border may, of course, be increased if desired, but the third pattern in the darkest shade must, in any case, form the centre of it.

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205.--_Lappet or Sash End in Venetian Embroidery._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 6 and No. 12; net and muslin.

The pattern must first be traced on muslin, which is then tacked over net. The outlines are worked in button-hole stitch, and the veinings are sewn over, using the coarse cotton for tracing; the muslin is then cut away all round the pattern.

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206.--_Venetian Border._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton No. 12 and No. 16; net and muslin.

This design is elegant and effective, without there being a great deal of work in it. It is useful for tuckers for evening dresses or handkerchief borders. The muslin is laid over the net, sewn neatly over, and then cut away between the pattern, leaving the net for the ground work.

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_207.--Lace Insertion._

Materials: Fine black sewing silk; black Brussels net.

This lace insertion is first outlined in running stitch upon the net; the leaves are then darned across the net holes; the stems are worked in overcast stitch; the dots are embroidered by darning across the circle previously outlined; the lace stitches in the centre are formed by gently enlarging the net holes with a fine stiletto, and then sewn lightly round, the remaining holes being filled with lace stitches consisting of fine button-hole stitches, very evenly worked over the entire space surrounding the open holes.

To be effective the very finest black silk should be employed. This pattern may be worked in applique by placing muslin over net, sewing all the outlines in fine overcast stitch, and when finished, carefully cutting away the muslin.

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208 _and_ 209.--_Slipper on Java Canvas._

Materials: Light brown Java canvas; green silk; green filoselle and purse silk; green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide; some wadding; 2 cork soles.

This slipper is very pretty, and easy to work. It is made of light brown Java canvas, and embroidered in point Russe with green filoselle. It is lined with green silk, and slightly quilted. The soles are of cork. The slipper is trimmed all round with a ruche of green silk ribbon three-fifths of an inch wide, pleated in double box pleats. The heel is turned down inside. No. 209 shows the pattern of the point Russe stitch nearly full size.

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210 _and_ 211.--_Medallions in Point Russe_.

Materials: Coloured filoselle, cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk.

These medallions can be alternated for ornamenting small covers, cushions, borders, &c. They are worked with coloured filoselle in point Russe, herring-bone stitch, coral stitch, and knotted stitch, on cloth, velvet, cashmere, or silk. The middle oval of both medallions contrasts with the colour of the ground, and must therefore be worked in applique on the latter with herring-bone stitch, before working the outer border. The wreath on No. 211 is worked in coral stitch; the knots, which imitate small blossoms, in knotted stitch. The choice of colours is left to the personal taste of the worker.

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212.--_Butterfly for Handkerchief Corner_.

Materials: French lawn or cambric; fine black silk.

This butterfly is worked in the finest black silk procurable, in order more closely to imitate etching. It is worked in point Russe and scallop stitch; the dark shaded scallops are worked in button-hole scallop stitch, the stitches being taken very closely together, but not raised by the usual method of placing chain stitches beneath the button-hole stitches. The outlines and flowers are worked in point Russe, the dot in knotted stitch (see No. 73, _Embroidery Instructions_.)

The initials are embroidered in raised slanting overcast stitch, and should be worked with great regularity.

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213 _to_ 215.--_Pattern for a Couvrette in Applique_. (_see pages 576-7_.)

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s embroidery cotton Nos. 24 and 30; cambric muslin; Brussels net; flesh-coloured silk; sewing silk of the same shade; 1 skein of a darker shade; blue silk; brown silk; gold thread.

This style of work is most effective for couvrettes or bed covers. It is worked in cambric muslin and silk, over Brussels net.

The arabesque patterns are worked in cambric muslin, the outlines are embroidered in overcast, and the material is cut away all round. The medallions are made of blue silk; the figures upon them are cut out of flesh-coloured silk, and are gummed first upon tissue-paper, then upon the blue silk; the figures are further fastened upon the medallions in overcast stitch with fine silk of a rather darker shade of flesh-colour. The scarfs are cut out of bright rose-coloured silk; the quiver and arrows and all the other attributes are worked in gold thread; the hair in fine brown silk. The edge of the blue silk medallions is worked round in button-hole stitch, but so as to be easily unripped when the couvrette has to be cleaned. A border in open ladder stitch is worked round them (see No. 81, _Embroidery Instructions_). The openings in the centre pattern are also filled in with lace stitches.

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CROCHET

INSTRUCTIONS.

Cotton or thread, wool or silk, with a crochet-needle, are the materials required for working crochet. The needle, whether it be steel or bone, must be smoothly polished. The long wooden and bone crochet-needles are used for wool; for cotton and silk work short steel needles screwed into a bone handle are best. The beauty of the crochet-work depends upon the regularity of the stitches, as is the case with every other style of needlework. The stitches must be elastic, but if too loose they look as bad as if too tight. The size of the needle and that of the cotton or wool must correspond; work only with the point of the needle, and never move the stitch up and down the needle. The cotton with which you work must be of the very best quality; for borders, insertions, rosettes, imitation of guipure, use Evans's crochet cotton; for couvrettes, counterpanes, covers, &c., use knitting-cotton. All crochet-work patterns are begun on a foundation chain; there are three kinds of foundation chains--the plain foundation, the double foundation, and the purl foundation chain.

The plain foundation chain consists of chain stitches.

ILLUSTRATION 216.--Form a loop with the cotton or other material with which you work, take it on the needle, and hold the cotton as for knitting on the forefinger and other fingers of the left hand. The crochet-needle is held in the right hand between the thumb and forefinger, as you hold a pen in writing; hold the end of the cotton of the loop between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, wind the cotton once round the needle by drawing the needle underneath the cotton from left to right, catch the cotton with the hook of the needle and draw it as a loop through the loop already on the needle, which is cast off the needle by this means and forms one chain stitch. The drawing the cotton through the loop is repeated until the foundation chain has acquired sufficient length. When enough chain stitches have been made, take the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, so that these fingers are always close to and under the hook of the needle. Each stitch must be loose enough to let the hook of the needle pass easily through. All foundation chains are begun with a loop.

ILLUSTRATION 217 (_The Double Foundation Chain_).--Crochet 2 chain stitches, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st chain stitch, throw the cotton forward, draw it out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle, * draw the cotton as a loop through the left side of the last stitch (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through both loops on the needle. Repeat from * till the foundation chain is long enough.

ILLUSTRATION 218 (_Purl Foundation Chain_).--* Crochet 4 chain stitch, then 1 treble stitch--that is, wind the cotton round the needle, insert the needle downwards into the left side of the 1st of the 4 chain stitches, wind the cotton round the needle, draw it through the stitch, wind the cotton again round the needle, and at the same time draw the cotton through the last loop and through the stitch formed by winding the cotton round the needle. Wind the cotton once more round the needle, and draw it through the 2 remaining loops on the needle. The 4 chain stitches form a kind of scallop or purl. Repeat from *. The following crochet stitches require foundation chains like Nos. 216 and 217; they are all worked in separate rows excepting the two Nos. 222 and 234. Make a loop at the beginning of every row, as has been described (No. 216), and take it on the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 219 (_Slip Stitch_).--Draw the needle through the back part of a foundation chain stitch, or in the course of the work through the back part of a stitch of the preceding row, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the stitch and loop on the needle. The illustration shows a number of slip stitches, the last of which is left quite loose; the arrow marks the place where the needle is to be inserted for the next stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 220 (_Double Stitch_).--These are worked nearly like the preceding ones. Draw the cotton as a loop through the back part of a stitch, wind the cotton round the needle, and draw it through the two loops on the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 221.--These double stitches are worked nearly like the preceding ones; the 1st row is worked like that of No. 220; in the following ones insert the needle into the two upper sides of a stitch of the preceding row.

ILLUSTRATION 222 (_The Ribbed Stitch_).--This stitch is worked backwards and forwards--that is, the right and wrong sides are worked together, which forms the raised ribs. Insert the needle always into the back part of every stitch. Work 1 chain stitch at the end of every row, which is not worked, however, in the following row.

ILLUSTRATION 223 (_Slanting Stitch, double stitch_).--This stitch is worked like that described in No. 220; the cotton is not wound round the needle the first time in the usual manner, but the needle is placed in the direction of the arrow, above the cotton. Draw the cotton through as a loop; the stitch is finished like the common double stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 224 (_Cross Stitch_).--This stitch is worked like No. 223 on a foundation like No. 217, only insert the needle through the two upper sides of a stitch.

Illustration 225 (_Long Double_).--For this stitch wind the cotton round the needle, insert it into the back part of a stitch, draw the cotton out as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle, and cast off together the two loops and the loop formed by winding the cotton round the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 226 (_Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are worked as has been described for the purl foundation chain, No. 218. The treble stitches are worked on a foundation chain or in the stitches of the preceding row.

ILLUSTRATION 227 (_Long Treble_).--These are worked like treble stitches, only the cotton is wound twice round the needle; the double long treble (illustration 228) is worked by winding the cotton three times round the needle. The loops formed by winding the cotton round the needle are cast off one by one with one of the loops on the needle. The two loops that remain at the end are cast off together after winding the cotton round the needle.

ILLUSTRATION 229-231 (_Cross Treble_).--Illustration 229 shows this stitch completed; illustrations 230 and 231 show them in the course of the work. Wind the cotton twice round the needle as for a long treble, insert the needle into the stitch in which the first half of the cross treble is to be worked, wind the cotton round the needle, draw the cotton through as a loop, wind the cotton again round the needle and cast off together with the same the loop on the needle and the loop formed by throwing the cotton forward; you have now 3 loops left on the needle, 1 of which has been formed by winding the cotton round the needle; missing these, wind the cotton again round the needle, miss the 2 next stitches of the foundation chain, and draw a loop through the third stitch. You have now 5 loops on the needle. Always cast off 2 loops at a time till only 1 loop remains on the needle. Work 2 chain stitches (if you wish to have the stitches more or less) slanting, work 1, 2, or 3 chain stitches, missing, of course, the same number of foundation chain, work 1 treble stitch, inserting the needle, as shown by the arrow on No. 231, into the 2 cross chain of the completed treble stitch.

ILLUSTRATION 232 (_Raised Spots_).--The grounding on which these spots are worked consists of double crochet. They are worked across 3 rows of the ground, and formed of treble stitches, the spots of one row being placed between those of the preceding. Work first 2 rows of double stitch, in the 3rd row work first 2 double stitches and then 1 spot as follows:--1 treble, inserting the needle into both sides of 1 stitch of the first row (the preceding row is missed); the treble stitch is only completed so far that 2 loops remain on the needle; then work 2 treble stitches in the same stitch as the first, which are also only completed as far as the first treble stitch, so that after the 2nd treble there remain 3 loops and after the 3rd 4 loops on the needle (see illustration). The 4 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton once more round the needle and drawing it through. Miss under the spot the next double stitch of the preceding row; the spots are repeated at intervals of 5 stitches and in every other row.

ILLUSTRATION 233 (_Hollow Spots_).--The ground is worked in double crochet (illustration 220). These spots, which appear raised, consist of 5 treble stitches; they are worked in every other row at intervals of 5 stitches. For working them leave 1 loop on the needle, insert the needle between the 2 long sides of the last-worked double stitch, and work 5 treble stitches, always inserting the needle into the front part of 1 stitch of the preceding row. The first 4 treble are completed entirely without taking up the loop which was on the needle; with the fifth treble stitch only the 3 loops are cast off together by winding the cotton round the needle. Miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under the spot.

ILLUSTRATION 234 (_Open-work Spots_).--These spots are treble stitches divided by 2 chain; miss 2 stitches under the latter; for the rest, they are worked like the raised spots (illustration 232).

ILLUSTRATION 235 (_Raised Treble Stitch_).--These stitches are long treble worked on a ribbed ground (illustration 222), and are thrown across 3 rows of the same. The raised treble are always worked on the same side of the work and in the long side of the corresponding stitch of the last row but two. After every row with treble stitch comes a row in ribbed stitch. At the beginning work 3 rows of ribbed stitch; the treble stitches begin only in the 4th row.

ILLUSTRATION 236 (_Purl Stitch_).--These purl stitches imitate a lace edging perfectly well. Work 1 double, draw out the loop to a certain length (this forms the purl), take the needle out of it, insert it in the front part of the last stitch which has been worked (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw it through as a loop; 1 double, 1 purl, and so on.

ILLUSTRATION 237 (_Purl Stitch turned upwards_).--Work 1 treble, then 7 chain stitch. Insert the needle into the 2nd of the 7 chain stitch downwards, so that the chain stitches form a scallop upwards (see illustration), wind the cotton round the needle and draw the cotton through; work 1 chain stitch and 1 treble in the next stitch but 3, missing 3 stitches under it.

ILLUSTRATION 238 (_Purl Stitch turned downwards_).--The chain stitches form a scallop turned downwards. After having worked the 7 chain stitches take the needle out of the loop, insert it underneath the upper chain of the 2nd chain stitch, from right to left, and draw it through the loop in the direction of the arrow. Wind the cotton round the needle and cast all the loops off together. It is evident that the purl stitches may be worked at larger or smaller distances.

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CROCHET PATTERNS.

239.--_Small Crochet Basket_.

Materials: 2 balls of closely-covered white and silver, and 1 ball of pink and silver twine; a crochet needle.

For the bottom: Make a chain of 4 stitches and unite it, work 3 long, 3 chain, and repeat three times more.

2nd round: Work 3 long into the 1st 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the next 3 chain, make 3 chain, work 3 long into the same place, make 3 chain, and repeat.

3rd round: 3 long, 3 chain, working twice into the 3 chain of last round.

4th round: 3 long, 3 chain, increasing in every other 3rd chain by working twice into it.

5th round: Increasing in every 3rd chain, repeat.

For the leaves: Make a chain of 32 stitches, then work a row of 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch with the silver twine.

2nd round: Work 1 long stitch into each chain stitch in 1st row, make 1 chain stitch, repeat. (At the point, make 4 long, with a chain stitch between each), repeat on the other side of the chain, 1 long stitch and 1 chain stitch alternately.

3rd round: With pink: Work over a wire in double crochet 1 stitch into each loop, work 15 more leaves in the same way, join each leaf half way, then sew it to the centre, work a row of double crochet 1 yard in length, and twist it for the handle. This should also be crocheted over wire.

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240 to 243.--_Couvrette in Crochet_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 10, and steel crochet needle.

This very pretty pattern is composed of separate circles representing dahlias in raised work upon an open centre. No. 242 shows one of these large circles in full size, No. 241 one of the small circles placed in the spaces between the larger ones, No. 243 part of the border, and No. 240 the couvrette when completed, but in reduced size.

For each large circle make a chain of 20 stitches, and join it into a circle.

1st round: 30 stitches of double crochet over the circle of chain stitches.

2nd round: 36 stitches of double crochet.

3rd round: 1 double, 5 chain, miss 1. 4th round:

The same as the preceding--the 1 double always on the 3rd chain.

5th round: Close double crochet; 3 stitches in 1 in the centre stitch of each loop.

6th to 12th round: The same as the 5th, close double crochet, increasing in the centre of each small scallop, which forms the 18 raised petals of the dahlia.

13th round: Here begins the open-work border round the dahlia. Work 1 double between 2 petals, taking together the 2 centre stitches, 1 double in the next, 5 chain. There will be 18 loops of 5 chain in the round.

14th to 17th round: 1 double in centre of each loop, 5 chain between. 18th round: 1 double in centre of 1st loop, 4 chain, 1 treble in next loop; in the top of this treble stitch work 3 double, with 3 chain between each; make 4 chain. Repeat the same all round, and the large circle is completed. Six of these are required.

For each small circle make a chain of 10 stitches, and join it into a round.

1st round: 16 stitches of close double crochet.

2nd round: 1 treble, 3 chain, miss 1, 8 times.

3rd round: 9 treble over each loop of chain, 1 double between. This completes 1 of the 6 small circles placed round the large ones in the centre of the couvrette. The 6 that are placed between the 5 other large circles have 1 more round, which is worked as follows:--1 treble in the centre of 1 scallop in the top of this treble stitch, 3 double, with 3 chain between each, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round.

When all the circles are completed, join them together, as seen in illustration 217, and work the border as follows:--

1st round: 1 treble in one of the trefoil branches of a small circle, 8 chain, 1 treble in next trefoil, 8 chain, 1 treble in 3rd trefoil, 8 chain, 1 long treble in 4th trefoil, 10 chain, 1 long treble in 1 trefoil of a large circle, 1 treble in each of the 4 next trefoils of the large circle, 8 chain between each 8 chain, 1 long treble in the last trefoil of the large circle,10 chain. Repeat all round.

2nd round: 2 treble, with 1 chain between, in first stitch of last round, * 4 chain, miss 5, 2 treble with 1 chain between next stitch. Repeat from *.

3rd and 4th rounds: The same as the 2nd. The 2 treble always in 1 chain.

5th round: In each 1 chain, 4 treble, with 1 chain between the 2nd and 3rd, 4 chain after the 4 treble. The same all round.

6th round: The same as the 5th.

7th round: 1 treble in 1 chain, 1 trefoil in the top of the treble, 6 chain. Repeat the same all round, which completes the couvrette.

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244.--_Star in Crochet_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 80, or with No. 8 or 10 for couvrettes.

A number of these stars joined together will make very pretty strips of insertion. For this purpose they should be worked with fine cotton. They may also be used for trimming collars, cuffs, and cravats, the material being cut away underneath. If worked with crochet cotton No. 8 or 10, they will make nice couvrettes, bed-quilts, &c.

The star is begun by the outer circle. Make a chain of 70 stitches, and join it into a circle. * Make 10 chain, miss 3, work 1 extra long treble, 1 treble, and 1 double, inserting the needle under the chain, then 1 double worked as usual, 1 long double, 2 extra long double, miss 4, and work 1 double, inserting the needle _under_ the 5th. Repeat 13 times from * Fasten off, and for the centre of the star work as follows:--

1st round: * 10 chain, turn, miss 1 and work 1 double in the next 7 chain, 1 double in the 1st of the 10 chain, thus forming 1 loop. Repeat from * 5 times more.

2nd round: 12 double on the first loop of chain of the first branch, 1 double in the centre of the branch, 2 chain; slip the stitch which is upon the needle in one of the stitches of the foundation chain of the outer circle, work 1 double in the first of the 2 chain last made, then 12 double in the remaining loop of chain of the branch, and 1 double at the bottom of the branch. Repeat 5 times more from *. The centre star must be joined on to the outer circle at regular distances.

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245.--_Crochet Silk Bag over Rings_.

Materials: 2 skeins each of black, blue, rose, and drab coarse purse twist; 8 skeins of the spangled silk for the top part of the bag and strings; the tassel for the bottom is made of the silks that are left; rings.

Work over a ring in double crochet, with black, 48 stitches and fasten off; this is for the centre ring. Then with the rose colour take a ring and work 24 stitches in double crochet as before, take a second ring, and work 24 double crochet over it without cutting off the silk, work over 4 more rings in the same manner, then work on the other side of the rings to correspond, join the first and last ring together, and sew in the centre ring; this completes the 1st circle. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, 3 rose colour, with drab centre, 3 blue with black, 3 drab with rose centre, 3 black with blue, join 6 circles of the alternate colours to the 1st circle, 1 to each ring, then sew the second ring to the corresponding one of the next circle, till the 6 are united; join the other 6 circles in the following manner: join one ring to the second from the one that was sewed to the 1st circle, join the next ring to the corresponding one of the next circle (which will be the one opposite to the one sewed in the 1st circle), and repeat, joining the other 5 in the same way.

For the small diamond make a chain of 5 stitches and unite it, work 4 long stitches into the circle, make 2 chain, work 1 single stitch to the centre of the ring missed in joining the last circle, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the circle, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the centre of the next ring, make 2 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 5 chain, work 4 long into the same place, make 2 chain, and work a stitch of single crochet to the next ring, make 2 chain, and join it to the first of the long stitches; this completes the diamonds; work 5 more, joining them in the same way, then work over 12 rings, and join one on each side of every diamond; this completes the lower part of the bag. For the top part of the bag work 3 stitches of double crochet to the centre of each ring, make 5 chain, and repeat. 1st round: Work 1 long stitch, make 1 chain, miss 1 loop, and repeat. Work 12 more rounds in the same way, working the long stitch into the chain stitch of last row. Run some cord in the top of the bag to match one of the colours used, and make the tassel for the bottom from the silk that is remaining after working the crochet.

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246.--_Crochet Sovereign Purse._

Materials: 1 skein of black purse silk: 1 skein of coloured ditto; a few steel beads; and a steel clasp.

The open portion of this purse is worked in coloured, and the raised rose and outer border in black, silk, the latter being dotted with steel beads. A few rows of plain double crochet are worked, increasing where necessary, to make the work lie flat; then 4 rows of loops of chain in coloured silk, and then 3 rows of thick double crochet, threading the beads first on the silk, and pushing them up to the stitches when required.

The black silk must now be joined on to the centre, and the little raised piece worked in treble crochet, inserting the hook on the _upper_ side of the stitches. Three rounds of treble are executed, and when both sides of the purse are finished they should be joined together (except where the clasp is put on) by a row of open treble, ornamented with beads. This purse is so easy to make, that it might be worked without the least difficulty from the illustration.

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247.--_Stars in Crochet_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 8 or 20.

This pattern can be used for a couvrette or pincushion cover, according to the size of the cotton with which it is worked.

Each star is begun in the centre by a chain of 8 stitches. In the 1st stitch work 1 treble, * 4 chain, 1 treble in this same 1st stitch, repeat from * 3 times more, 4 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 4th of the 8 chain. You have thus formed 8 rays, joined to the 1st stitch. Now work (without cutting the cotton) the branches, which are begun from the centre.

1st branch.--1st round: 18 chain, 1 treble in the 13th, so as to form a purl with the last 5, 2 chain, 3 treble with 2 chain between, missing 2 stitches under the 2 chain, 2 chain, 1 slip stitch in the last of the 18 chain.

2nd round: 2 double over the 1st 2 chain, 2 double with 1 purl between over the next 2 chain, 2 double over the next 2 chain, 1 purl, 7 double over the next 5 chain; then, on the other side of the branch, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 2 double with 1 purl between, 2 double on the last 2 chain of the branch, 1 slip stitch in the stitch from which the leaf was begun, 5 double over the 4 chain of the circle. Here begins the second branch.