Chapter II: Part 2

Text size

This rosette is very pretty for trimming _lingeries_; it is worked with very fine crochet or tatting cotton. Begin in the centre and work one circle: 16 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, then 1 purled stitch. Fasten the cotton on to the first purl and work the 2nd round: 1 small circle, consisting of 6 double divided by 1 purl. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and repeat in rounds. 3rd round: Fasten the cotton on the middle purl of the first circle of the preceding round, * work at a short distance 8 double divided by 1 purl, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton at the same distance on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat in rounds from *, after which the cotton is fastened off.

* * * * *

35.--_Rosette in Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 3.

Begin this rosette with the circle in the centre, and work 8 times alternately 2 double, 1 purl, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle and fasten the cotton. Take a second shuttle and work over the cotton on this shuttle; knot the two ends of cotton together * and work 5 plain, fasten the cotton over which you work on a purl of the circle which is completed, and which must be turned downwards; 5 plain, 1 purl; repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten the cotton. Work now with one of the shuttles the small circles on the outside; * fasten the cotton on to a purl of the second round, and work a circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fasten the cotton on to the same purl of the second round, work a similar circle at a short distance, and a third at the same distance. Repeat 7 times more from *, and fasten off the cotton neatly.

* * * * *

36.--_Diamond in Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2.

This diamond is suitable for trimming collars, cuffs, &c., when worked with fine cotton. Work first the four corner patterns separately, as follows:--7 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 6 double, join the stitches into a circle, work close to this circle a second one consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the 1st circle, 4 double, 2 purl divided by 4 double, 6 double; then a 3rd circle consisting of 6 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 3 double, 2 purl divided by 3 double, 7 double. Take a second shuttle, fasten the cotton on the end of the cotton of the 1st circle, throw the cotton of the 1st shuttle over the fingers of the left hand, and work with this cotton over the cotton on the other shuttle in the right hand. Work 5 double, and then one circle as follows with the cotton in the left hand only:--8 double fastened on the last purl of the 3rd of the 3 circles worked close to each other, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 double, then again over the cotton on the other shuttle, 5 double, 4 purl divided by 5 double, 5 double, then with one shuttle only one circle as follows:--6 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on 1st purl of the circle worked at the beginning, 8 double; then again with two shuttles 5 double. Fasten the cotton on the piece of cotton before the 5 double worked with two shuttles, so that the stitches worked over two shuttles form a circle, and cut off the cotton. When three of these patterns have been worked, work the centre pattern of the square. It consists of 4 leaves touching each other at the lower points; each leaf is formed of 3 double, 5 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double; each following leaf is fastened on to the preceding one at the place of the 1st purl. Then work first 1 round of the oval circles of the square, with which the corner patterns are joined. Fasten the cotton on one purl of one corner pattern, make 7 double, 1 purl, 8 double; fasten on the corresponding purl of another corner pattern, work 8 double, 1 purl, 7 double, join the stitches into a circle, fasten the cotton on to the same purl to which the cotton has already been fastened, carry the latter on to the next purl of the same corner pattern, fasten it, then work three more circles like the first, which are fastened on to each preceding circle, at the place of the first purl; fasten the cotton on the two cross purl of the centre pattern, and work four similar circles on the other side of the same. The 8 circles which go across the square in the opposite direction are worked in the same manner. When the square is completed, draw two threads on each side of each corner pattern on to the other side of the square along the cotton which joins the circles together.

* * * * *

37.--_Tatting for Cap Crown_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 1.

This pattern is very pretty for the crown of a cap like the one described on page 36, and also for covers, toilet cushions, &c. The size of the cotton depends upon the use you wish to make of the pattern. The pattern is worked with fine tatting cotton. It consists of eight-branched rosettes joined together with small circles. Each rosette is worked as follows: Work 8 loops or branches close to each other, consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; fasten both ends of the cotton together, and cut them off. Each of the small circles which joins the rosettes together consists of 2 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double. It is easy to see from the illustration how the patterns are joined together by means of the purl stitches.

* * * * *

38 _and_ 39.--_Cap in Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100 tatting-pin No. 1.

This very pretty cap consists of an oval crown in tatting, edged all round with a tatted lace, the lappets are made in tatting also. The cap is trimmed with large and small rosettes of narrow blue velvet. A narrow velvet ribbon is drawn through the straight open-work edge of the lace, as can be seen in illustration.

* * * * *

No. 39.--Border for Cap.--The upper part of the border consists of 4 rows of circles worked at a distance of three-fifths of an inch from each other. The circles of the 1st row consist of 3 double, 3 purl divided by 3 double, 3 double. In the following 3 rows each circle is fastened on to the cotton, which joins 2 circles in the 1st row, instead of working the middle purl, the cotton between 2 circles in the last row must only be two-fifths of an inch long. Then work a certain number of six-branched rosettes, each branch consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double. Each rosette is fastened on to every other circle of the

1st row, as can be seen in illustration. The border is completed as follows:--* 1 double, 6 purl divided by 1 double, 1 purled stitch fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the 1st row, 1 plain, 6 purl divided by 1 double, join the stitch into a circle, turn the lace so that the rosettes are turned upwards, fasten the cotton on to the purl of the next branch of the next rosette, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the purl of the next branch, * work 1 double, 8 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double; fasten the cotton on to the next branch, repeat once more from *, work 1 double, 7 purl divided by 1 double, 1 double, and repeat from * to the end of the lace.

* * * * *

40.--_Lace in Tatting and Crochet_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 2; crochet cotton No. 60.

The beauty of this lace depends entirely upon the regularity of the tatting. The purl stitches must be very regularly made, the circles must be drawn up tight. Make * 1 circle, consisting of 4 double, 8 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double; close to this circle a second one; 5 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 8 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl

5 double, close to the 2nd circle a third one similar to the first, but instead of working the 1st purl fasten it on the last purl of the preceding circle; leave an interval of about 1-2/5 inch, and repeat from * till the lace is sufficiently long. The rest is worked in crochet. Take the fine crochet cotton and work the straight row at the top to join the patterns together. Crochet 1 double in the 3 first and last purl of the first and last circle of one pattern, then a sufficient number of double stitches under the piece of cotton which joins 2 circles. At the place where the circles are drawn together, join the two pieces of cotton (the beginning and the end) in such a manner that the top of the lace forms a straight line (see illustration). The 2nd row consists of 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Then work on the other side of the lace * a row of treble stitches divided by chain. The treble stitches are worked in the purl stitches of the circles. Work 1 long treble in the 1st purl left free of the 1st circle (4th purl of the circle), 3 chain, * 1 treble, 3 chain, 1 treble, 3 chain, 2 treble in the next 2 purl, but cast off the 1st treble only so far as to keep 2 loops on the needle. When the 2nd treble is completed cast off all the loops on the needle, 3 chain, 5 treble divided by 4 chain, 3 chain, 2 treble in the 2 following purl, which are cast off like those above described, 3 chain, 2 treble divided by 3 chain in the 2 next purl of a pattern, 1 chain, 1 long treble with which you must join the last purl and the first one of the next pattern, 1 chain; repeat from *. The next row consists of small scallops worked round the chain stitch scallops of the preceding row; work in each 1 double, 4 treble, 1 double, 1 double in the first and last chain stitch of every pattern.

* * * * *

41.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.

Begin the tatting with fine cotton and 2 shuttles. Work with the cotton on one shuttle over the cotton on the other in the following manner:--Knot the 2 ends of cotton together * 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 3 long purl divided by 1 double; the 1st and 3rd purl must be three-fifths of an inch long, the 2nd one two-fifths of an inch; 4 times 2 double divided by a short purl, 1 purl two-fifths of an inch long; repeat from * till the strip of insertion is sufficiently long. Then work a similar row of tatting, and join the two rows before working the 1 long purl, by fastening the cotton on the corresponding long purl of the 1st row, so that the 2 rows are joined closely together, and the purl stitches of either are turned outwards. At the top and bottom of the tatting work the 3 following rows of crochet:--* 1 double in the middle one of the 3 long purl, 8 chain, 1 double in each of the 3 following long purl, 8 chain; repeat from * to the end of the row. 2nd row. 8 double in each scallop, miss the 3 double stitches of the preceding row under 3 chain. The 3rd row consists of treble stitches in every other stitch, 1 chain after every treble. Lastly, the leaves are worked with thick cotton by filling up the first and last long purl of a pattern with darning stitch from illustration; the cross stitches between the two rows of tatting are worked with very fine cotton.

* * * * *

42.--_Purse in Tatting and Beads_.

Materials: Grey purse-silk; steel beads; scarlet glace silk; a steel clasp with chain.

This purse is worked in tatting with grey silk and beads. The beads are threaded on a piece of silk, with which you work over another piece of the same. Begin each of the second halves of the purse with the circle in the centre, which consists of 1 purled stitch, 1 purl (all the purl of this circle are three-tenths of an inch long, and are covered with six beads, which must be drawn up close together before working the purl), 12 double divided by 1 purl. Join the stitches into a circle by knotting together the two ends of the silk.

2nd round: Begin again and work one of the small circles; * 2 double, draw up one bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl without beads, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fasten the silk on the purl of the middle circle, so as to let it come between the 3rd and 4th bead of the 6 beads on that purl; 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 2 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, join the stitches into a circle, draw up 2 beads; work a larger circle without fastening the silk belonging to the smaller one; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 4 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; draw up 2 beads close to this large circle and repeat from *. Each following small circle must be fastened on the next purl of the circle which forms the centre; they are also fastened on to each other, instead of working the 1st purl, by fastening the piece of silk over which you work on the preceding small circle; in the larger circles, instead of working the 1st purl with 4 beads, the piece of silk must be fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, so that it comes between the 2nd and 3rd beads. At the end of the round, the ends of the silk are knotted together and fastened off.

3rd round: * 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 short purl, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; join the stitches into a circle, and work at a short distance a 2nd circle; 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, fastened on the last purl of the just-finished circle of this round, 3 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the preceding round which is between 2 circles; the loop must come between the 2 beads; 3 double, 1 bead after each; 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads; 3 double, with 1 bead after each; 1 double; leave a small interval, and repeat 11 times more from *, then fasten the ends.

When two similar parts have been worked, line them with scarlet glace silk; fasten them together round the outside, and sew on the clasp. A round of large circles edges the purse round the outside. The 1st of these circles consists of 12 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double. Work a 2nd circle at a short distance from the 1st: * 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double fastened on the purl of the 1st circle of this round; 7 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double, 1 purl with 2 beads, 4 double, 1 bead after each, 1 double; leave a short interval, and repeat from * till a sufficient number of circles have been made. The last purl is not worked in the last circle.

* * * * *

43.--_Insertion in Tatting and Crochet._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; crochet cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 3.

This pattern is composed of leaves and flowers. Each of the six leaves forming a circle is composed of 4 double, 2 purl, separated by 2 double, 4 double (the first and last purl of each leaf must be joined in the manner before explained), and the centre of each circle forms a wheel. The flower has four leaves: each leaf consists of 6 double, II purl, separated each by 1 double, and again 6 double; each leaf is filled up with button-hole stitches in fine cotton. To form the circle in the centre of this flower, turn several times the thread which joins the leaves, and work button-hole stitches round it. Join the flowers and the circles by knotting them together, or by making 1 purl longer than the others, and by drawing the next figure through. The crochet border on each side of the tatting consists of six rows, which are plainly seen in the illustration.

* * * * *

44.--_Border in Tatting and Lace Stitch._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 20 and 40.

This mixture of tatting and lace stitch is a style of work not only entirely new, but very pretty and effective when cotton of very different sizes is used. The tatting is begun with a row of circles two-thirds of an inch distant from each other; each circle consists of 13 stitches of plain tatting. Fasten a 2nd row to the 1st, and a 3rd to the 2nd, by working a circle of 13 stitches of plain tatting at one-third of an inch distance, * then at the same distance; fasten the cotton on the next circle of the preceding row, work a circle at the same distance again, and repeat from *. The cotton is fastened on the circles by drawing it through the circle with a crochet-needle, so as to form a loop, and then drawing it out of the loop. Take care to keep the distance between 2 circles always the same. Between the circles of the 3rd row draw another piece of cotton, by fastening the cotton on each circle of the 3rd row at distances of two-thirds of an inch. Then work the lower edge of the border in the following way:--1 small spot called a _Josephine knot_ (for which work 5 stitches of plain tatting, draw the cotton downwards through the loop which fastens the stitches, and draw up the whole), fasten the cotton between the next two circles of the 3rd row, * and a little further make a spot consisting of 8 stitches of single tatting, close to this a circle formed of 3 double, 9 purl divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a spot of 8 stitches of plain tatting, turn the 2 last spots so as to make their round sides come opposite one another; fasten the cotton on again between the 2 next circles of the 3rd row. Then a little further off work 1 small spot (5 stitches of plain tatting), 1 circle of 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double fastened on the last purl of the preceding circle, 2 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 3 double; then again a small spot (5 plain stitches), fasten the cotton on again between the next 2 circles of the 3rd row, and repeat from *, always fastening each new circle to the corresponding purl of the preceding one. On the other long side, the border is completed by 2 rows of crochet. The 1st row is formed by working 1 double under the piece of cotton between 2 circles of the 1st row, with 5 chain stitches between.

2nd row: 1 treble in every other stitch, 1 chain stitch after every treble. The strip of insertion is then tacked on a piece of cardboard or oil-cloth, and the lace stitches are worked between the circles, as is seen in illustration.

* * * * *

45.--_Tatted Rosette._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 for large rosette, No. 80 for small rosette; tatting-pin No. 3.

This rosette forms a very pretty trimming for lingerie--cravats, caps, handkerchiefs, &c. The raised pattern in the centre consists of 4 rounds, consisting of 5 circles each, which are sewn together and then fastened on the rosette. The 5 circles of each round must be worked close to each other: after working the last circle of each round, knot the beginning and end of the cotton together. Each circle of the smallest round has 9 double, the circles of the next round each 15, the circles of the following one 21, and the circles of the last and largest round 27 double stitches. When these circles have been sewn on one to another as in illustration, work a large circle consisting of 4 double, 1 purl, 9 times alternately 5 double, 1 purl, then 1 double. The purls of this circle are fastened on to the circles of the next round of the rosette. Fasten the cotton on to the next purl of the middle circle, and work a circle as follows:--4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double. Repeat 9 times more from *, but now, instead of working the 1st purl of every circle, fasten it on to the last purl of the preceding circle. Then fasten the cotton. For the last round, which consists of scallops and rounds, fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and work a circle consisting of 3 times alternately 4 double, 1

purl, then 4 double. Then fasten a second thread on to the same purl on which the just completed circle has been fastened, and over which all the scallops are to be worked. Work over it 5 double, fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double. Fasten the cotton on to the middle purl of the next circle of the preceding round, and repeat from * till the round is completed; but in working these circles, instead of the first purl, fasten them on to the last purl of the preceding scallop. Lastly, the raised pattern is sewn on.

* * * * *

46.--_Linen Bag for Tatting, &c._

Materials: Fine linen; Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 30 or 40; tatting-pin No. 2.

This pretty linen bag is meant to keep tatting and such work from being soiled before it is completed. The bag is drawn together round the top. Its size depends upon what you wish to put into it. The original pattern is 3-3/4 inches deep, and 3 inches wide; it is hemmed round the top, and trimmed with a narrow tatted lace, consisting of large and small circles.

* * * * *

47.--_Tatted Border._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 40; tatting-pin No. 2.

Begin this elegant border with 2 rows of tatting, in the following manner:--

1st row: 2 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, 2 double; draw these stitches up into a circle, and repeat the circle at a very short distance, till the border is long enough; but instead of working the first purl of each circle, you must join the circle to the preceding one; the purl on the sides of the circle must therefore be longer than that in the middle.

For the 2nd row take another shuttle, make a loop on the left side with the cotton, and work with this end of cotton over the cotton in the right hand, which is also to be held between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Then work in the following way:--2 double, then 1 circle consisting of 3 double, 1 purl, 3 double; to form this circle, let the cotton in the left-hand shuttle fall downwards, and make a loop round the left hand with the cotton on the shuttle of the right hand. Then take up again the left-hand shuttle, and join the circle to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the 1st row by drawing the cotton through the purl like a loop, and then drawing the cotton in the right hand through this loop. * 7 double, 1 circle, 7 double, joined to the middle purl of the next circle of the 1st row; 1 circle, 5 double, 1 circle joined on the middle purl of the following circle; repeat from *.

The upper edge of the border is worked in 2 crochet rows, in the following manner:--

1st row: * 2 treble, divided by 1 chain in the 1st circle of the 1st row of tatting; 2 chain; repeat from *.

2nd row: * 1 treble in the 1st chain of the preceding row, 1 purl (3 chain, 1 slip stitch in the 1st), miss 1 stitch of the preceding row under it; repeat from *.

* * * * *

48.--_Rosette in Embroidery and Tatting._

Materials for trimmings: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s knitting cotton No. 20; tatting cotton No. 50; tatting-pin No. 3. For couvrettes, crochet cotton No. 4.

This rosette, joined to other similar ones, forms a very pretty trimming for articles of fine linen, or even for small couvrettes; if used for the former, they must be worked with very fine cotton. The centre of the rosette is formed of an embroidered raised pattern worked in _point de minute_; round this centre there are small circles worked in button-hole stitch; the embroidery is worked with knitting cotton, the circles with crochet cotton. Before beginning the circles, make a circle consisting of a foundation chain of 80 stitches, in order to be able to fasten the button-hole stitch; in each of the stitches of the foundation chain work 1 double, then fasten the cotton. In the 2nd round of these circles fasten the cotton on every 5th stitch of the crochet circle. Work 1 round of open-work treble stitch in the double stitch of the crochet circle, work in tatting the border of the rosette as follows in 1 round:--* 2 double, 1 purl, 2 double, fastened on to 1 chain stitch between 2 treble stitch, 2 double; 1 purl, 2 double,; join these stitches into a circle; turn the work so that the wrong side lies upwards, and work a second larger circle at a short distance consisting of 4 double, 5 purl divided by 2 double, 4 double, turn again and repeat from *. The smaller circles must be fastened after every other treble stitch; the larger and smaller circles must be fastened above one another at the place of the 1st purl.

* * * * *

49--_Linen Collar trimmed with Tatting._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co's tatting cotton No. 60; tatting-pin No. 2.

The diamond pattern placed in the corner of the collar is commenced in the centre. For each of the four centre leaves work 6 double stitches, 6 purl divided one from the other by 3 double stitches, then 6 more double stitches. Fasten off the cotton, cut it, and begin a fresh leaf by working 2 double stitches, 10 purl divided one from the other by 2 double stitches, then 2 more double stitches. (This small leaf forms one of the corners of the diamond pattern.) Fasten the cotton to the fourth purl of one of the four centre leaves, and work another leaf similar to the preceding. Join this leaf by its two centre purl to the two last purl of the corner leaf (see illustration). After two more similar leaves, work one corner leaf, and continue the pattern in the same manner until you come back to the first corner leaf, then fasten off, and cut the cotton. Place the diamond pattern upon the point of the collar, and cut away the material under it; fold back the edges, sew them neatly, and cover them with the following crochet edging:--Make alternately 2 chain, 1 purl (the latter composed of 3 chain joined together by 1 slip stitch). It will be easy to work the circles in tatting from our illustration; they form an elegant border round the collar. We shall merely say that the centre circle is always worked separately, and that the cotton is fastened on afresh to work the eight outer leaves. The upper edge of this border is worked in crochet. It is composed of two rows--one formed of chain stitches, and a few slip stitches worked in the purl of the circles in tatting, the other worked in open treble crochet.

* * * * *

50.--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting._

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 3.

This cravat consists of a strip of cambric muslin 1 yard long, 6 inches wide, hemmed on both sides. The ends of the cravat are ornamented with patterns in tatting, worked with tatting cotton No. 100. A rosette in tatting is sewn on in the middle of the end of the cravat. The end of the cravat is pointed, lined on the wrong side with a strip of the same material as the cravat, and edged with a tatted lace. Begin the rosette in the centre with a circle worked in the following manner:--1 double, 1 purl, * twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 3 double, 1 purl, twice 4 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, * 3 double, 1 purl; repeat from * to * once more, 2 double. At the beginning of the 2nd round fasten the cotton on the 1st purl of the 1st round, and

work as follows:--* 1 circle consisting of 10 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 10 double; fasten the cotton on to the next purl, 1 circle like the preceding one, fastened on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 9 double, 1 purl, 9 double fastened on to the next purl, 2 circles consisting each of 7 double, 1 purl, 7 double; between the 2 fasten the cotton on to the next purl; 2 similar circles fastened also on to the next purl, 1 circle consisting of 8 double, 1 purl, 8 double, fastened on to the next circle; repeat once more from *, and fasten off the cotton. Fasten on the cotton afresh for the 3rd round, worked in the following manner:--* 1 circle consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl; 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double; fasten the cotton at a short distance on to the 1st purl of the 2nd round, 1 circle worked as follows:--5 double fastened on to the last purl of the preceding circle of this round, 4 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the 2nd round; 6 similar circles, between each of which the cotton is to be fastened on to the nearest purl of a circle of the 2nd round; repeat once more from *, and knot the beginning and the end of the cotton together. When completed, the rosette is sewn on the material of the cravat with button-hole stitches, taking up one purl with each stitch; the muslin is cut away underneath the rosette; then work a round of knotted stitches underneath the button-hole stitch. For the lace, make a row of circles one-fifth of an inch distant from each other, consisting each of 6 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 4 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 6 double, which are fastened together by the purl of each circle, and are sewn on the cravat over the cotton between the circles in overcast stitch.

* * * * *

51--_Cravat in Cambric Muslin and Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s tatting cotton No. 100; tatting-pin No. 3.

The end of this cravat is formed by a long rosette or _medaillon_ in tatting. This rosette is likewise begun in the centre, and consists of 4 rounds, the 2 first of which are worked like those of the rosette in illustration 50, with this difference only, that in the 2nd round each of the circles nearest to the top and to the bottom of the rosette consists of 8 double, 1 purl, 2 double, 1 purl, 8 double. 3rd round: * 1 circle, consisting of 6 double, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 5 double, 1 purl, 6 double, fastened on to the next purl of the 2nd circle of the preceding round; 1 circle as follows:--5 double, the last of which is fastened on to the last purl of the preceding round, 4 double, 1 purl, twice 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 5 double fastened on the next purl of the preceding round; 8 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the next purl of the preceding round; repeat from * once more, fasten the two ends of the cotton together. 4th round: * Fasten on the cotton afresh with a circle consisting of 7 double, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 6 times 2 double divided by 1 purl, 1 purl, 4 double, 1 purl, 7 double, fastened on to the middle purl of the 1st circle of the preceding round; a 2nd circle worked in the same way, only instead of working the last purl, fasten the cotton on to the last purl of the preceding circle, then on to the 1st circle of the preceding round; 10 more similar circles, between each of which the cotton is fastened on to the middle purl of a circle of the preceding round, and then on to the 2nd purl of the larger circle at the bottom of the medallion; repeat once more from *. The pattern is sewn on the cravat with button-hole stitches, as can be seen in the illustration.

* * * * *

52.--_Border in Crochet and Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s Boar's Head cotton No. 26.

This border is formed of circles in tatting and crochet leaves, which are joined together by rows of crochet work; a narrow

border in tatting forms the lower edge. Omitting this edge, the border forms a strip of insertion. Each of the rosettes or circles is begun in the centre; work first 2 double (a double stitch is formed by passing the thread over the back of the hand, and then passing the shuttle upwards between the forefinger and second finger, and drawing it up, then work a stitch of plain tatting; this completes the double stitch, and whenever so many double stitches are directed it means the 2 stitches), 1 purl, repeat 9 times, join the stitch into a circle, work at a small distance * a smaller ring consisting of 3 double, 5 purl, divided each by 2 double stitches, 4 double, draw the cotton through the purl of the first circle, and repeat 8 times more from *, only each following circle must be fastened on to a purl of the preceding circle after 3 double stitches, and having completed each circle the thread must be drawn through the purl of the first circle, which forms the centre of the rosette. The beginning and the end of the thread are knotted together. For the tatted border, make at short distances 1 loop with 5 double, 1 purl, 5 double; after having worked a sufficient number of such loops, wind another thread round the thread between the loops, turning always 1 loop on the right side and 1 on the left. Now begin the crochet part with the leaves. Make for each of these a foundation chain of 12 stitches, crochet back over this chain 2 double in the last stitch but one, 1 double in the next stitch, 1 treble in each of the following 7 chain, 2 treble in the next stitch, 2 treble, 1 long treble, and 2 treble in the next following stitch of the foundation chain. Work on the other side of the chain the same pattern, only the reverse way; then 3 double in the point of the leaf thus formed, and edge the whole leaf with a round of double stitches, always working 2 double in each stitch of the preceding row, and 3 in the long treble stitch. In working this last round, the circles must be joined to the leaves by taking up the purl stitch of the circle before casting off the corresponding double stitch of the leaf; then work the stem which joins the 2 rows of circles and leaves with a row of chain stitches, on which a row of double is worked. Then comes the border which forms the upper edge. Make a row of chain stitches, joining leaves and circles together, then work 3 rows of treble, work 3 more rows over the tatted border, the first row entirely in chain stitches, after every fourth stitch take up the purl of the loops on one side. 2nd row: 1 treble in the middle stitch of the 3 chain, 2 treble, divided by 3 chain. 3rd row: 1 treble, 1 chain, miss 1 under the last. In the last row the leaves and circles must be fastened on the border, as seen in illustration.

* * * * *

53.--_Diamond in Tatting_.

Materials: Messrs. Walter Evans and Co.'s crochet cotton No. 10; tatting-pin No. 2; any sized shuttle.

1st oval: Fill the shuttle, but do not cut it off from the reel, as a double thread is required, and commence by working 5 double stitches, 1 purl, then (3 double, 1 purl 10 times), 5 double, draw up.

Double thread: Putting the thread attached to the reel round the left hand, work 7 single stitches, taking care to do them tightly.

2nd oval: 4 double, join to the last purl of 1st oval, then (3 double, 1 purl, 5 times) 4 double, draw up.

Double thread: 12 single stitches tightly worked.

3rd oval: 4 double, join to last purl of 2nd oval, 3 double, join to next purl of 2nd oval, then (3 double, 1 purl 5 times) 4 double, draw up.