Chapter II: Part 2

First, as regards the number of inhabitants, it is difficult to arrive at correct figures in the absence of a census, but according to the municipal authorities, the population of Rio and the suburbs (which comprise a circuit of many miles) is now about 600,000. If building be any criterion, the increase of population must be very considerable. Since the period to which I allude, the city has extended itself in every possible direction, for without actually climbing the mountains there is a limit to building ground. The new streets are wide, and many of the new buildings exhibit a beautiful style of architecture, very suitable to the climate, especially in the suburbs. The number of shops has largely increased, and they are generally nicely decorated. Some public markets have been built, such as the Gloria, Harmonia, &c. Property has also greatly risen in value, and fabulous prices have been paid for land in the city favourably situated. The paving of the streets has also been carried out most efficiently. All the leading thoroughfares in and out of the city are now well paved, and in this respect the road from the Public Gardens to Bota Fogo would compare advantageously with any in Europe, that portion passing through the Cattete being a perfect specimen of good paving. As to the drainage works, they speak for themselves to those who recollect what Rio was twenty years back, and the names of Brassey and Gotto will long be remembered as public benefactors in this part of the world. I had not time to examine these great works in detail, but shall avail of an opportunity on my return to do so. Gas has been most successfully introduced, both as regards quantity, quality, and usefulness, and it must have been an enormous saving of trouble and expense in a country where so many lights are required, and which was formerly dependent on oil lamps and candles. Not only is the city well lighted, but every suburb, miles in extent, thereby greatly adding to comfort and security. Under these circumstances it will hardly be a matter of surprise that the gas company pays a very good dividend. It has rather a curious effect on some of the country roads to see gas lamps peeping out from the thick foliage of tropical plants, as if in competition with the fire-flies dancing about.

Rio positively swarms with omnibuses, carriages, and Tilburys. The former are plain enough in appearance, but are drawn by four mules at a good speed. The carriages, which are manufactured on the spot, are generally very superior in quality, with a couple of mules or horses, and the Tilbury is a kind of cab with cover, to hold one person with the driver. The fares, considering the distances traversed, are on the whole moderate, although charges in this respect are complained of. The Public Gardens have been very much improved since I was last here, and under the shade of the trees it is very pleasant to sit and admire the beauty of the scenery presented by the surrounding hills, and the view of the bay in front, the busy city shutout, and everything in quiet repose save the rumble of carriages passing along the streets. Another public garden has been established in the square called Praça da Constituiçao, where there is a fine statue of the first Emperor Dom Pedro proclaiming the independence of the Empire. A still larger square, called the Campo de Santa Anna, might advantageously be converted to a similar purpose, and would form probably the most extensive area of this kind in the world, affording shade and shelter from the rays of the sun to thousands of citizens who have to cross it. At present, near the public fountains, it is occupied by laundresses, and in certain spots rubbish is thrown, but other parts are being planted, especially near the Senate House, the War Office, and those of Public Works and Foreign Affairs, the Museum and the new Mint, the latter one of the finest buildings in Rio. The municipal taxes are few, and it is not easy to find a surplus to be employed in ornamental works. As regards the railways, I must reserve my notice of them till my return from the Plate, as at present my sojourn in the Empire is limited to a couple of days in the capital.

* * * * *

The terrible ravages of the cholera in the River Plate brought me back to Rio de Janeiro sooner than I had contemplated, as there was nothing whatever to be done down there under such circumstances. At one period both town and country places were threatened with absolute decimation, and the daily tales of horror exceeded almost anything on record. In many cases, when no one could be found to bury the dead inside ranchos, or cottages, they were set fire to as the only way of disposing of the bodies therein. In the Province of Buenos Ayres alone the loss of life is computed at 25,000, and other provinces suffered almost in an equal ratio, so that the actual loss of life and property in the Argentine Republic must have been something enormous. In the Banda Oriental the losses were severe, and at one time the mortality at Monte Video itself was almost as great as at Buenos Ayres. Farms were in many cases abandoned, and sheep and cattle left to roam at large; crops rotted in the ground, growers of fruits and vegetables were ruined, the markets for these products being closed, and their entrance into the town prohibited. In fact it appeared as if the destroying angel was passing over the devoted land; nor do I believe, from all I could learn on the spot, that cholera was the only form of disease. It rather resembled the fearful destruction of the Israelites, when Moses and Aaron “stood between the living and the dead.” How soon, however, such fearful visitations are forgotten. Except from the general appearance of mourning when I returned to the River Plate about three months later, and the crowded state of the cemeteries, no one could imagine that Buenos Ayres and Monte Video had gone through such a fearful ordeal. Everything went on as usual, and people looked after their farms and their merchandise as if nothing had happened, though doubtless many feared the return of the hot season, before which very little will have been done in the way of sanatary precaution. That the cholera will become a permanent visitor in the River Plate seems unlikely, if we are to judge from its erratic course in other parts of the world, but no one can say that the scourge will not prevail until the cities and towns are effectively sewered and drained. The climate itself is healthy enough, but then this is no safeguard against epidemics, which have their origin in impurities allowed to accumulate until cities become pest-houses.

On my return from the River Plate, in the beginning of February, I availed myself of the opportunity to ramble about the city and suburbs, to visit old friends, and to go over the railways, an account of which will be found under its proper head. The weather was still very hot, with frequent heavy thunder storms, some terrifically grand—more so than I ever remember during a two years' residence here. From my room window, at the Hotel dos Estrangeiros, I could see the whole heavens lighted up with frequent flashes, and now and again portions of the bay and of the mountains stood out as if from a sea of fire. Then the awful crash of the thunder, followed by instant and utter darkness, and with reverberations shaking the house to its foundations, all combined to heighten the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. As for sleeping in the midst of such turmoil, it was simply impossible.

Both February and March were very wet, stormy months, and on one occasion some large trees were blown down about the city, and much damage done to the roofs of houses, many of which are not very well protected from such visitations. Similar weather followed me to San Paulo, but on my return to Rio, after again visiting the River Plate, the weather was delightfully cool, fine, and pleasant, equal to the most agreeable portion of our summer weather in Europe. There is no doubt the climate of Rio de Janeiro is a healthy one, and it is a striking fact that scarcely any cases of epidemic have occurred since the sewerage of the city was completed, nor any visitation of cholera, notwithstanding sick and wounded were constantly arriving from the seat of war, and that the quarantine was merely nominal. I am convinced the very thunder storms to which I have alluded tend to purify the atmosphere. The deluges of rain of course exercise a great cleansing power, and it has been noticed in years when thunder storms did not prevail that much sickness followed. One requires to go closely over the city before he finds out improvements which have been effected in Rio, which are nowhere so palpable as when passing through the great public thoroughfares. With such a number of narrow intersecting streets, no adequate idea of the size or extent of the city can be formed until some of the hills about it are ascended, such as that of Santa Theresa. It is, however, from the top of the Corcovado that its dimensions are most striking, from whence also the spectator can form a fair notion of the extent of the bay.

I have before remarked on the defective state of the landing-places, that most used, near the custom-house, being a very dirty, dilapidated wooden jetty, about which the rabble of the city seems to collect, and it is always a scene of much uproar and confusion. There is quite a Babel among the boatmen and their black hangers-on. There are some other landing-places, with stone steps, in front of the large square, whence the ferry-boats across the bay take their departure, but these are not very convenient, and the untidy state of the public market which stands here is a disgrace to the municipality. Indeed nothing can be more derogatory to a large city like Rio de Janeiro, possessing the finest harbour in the world, than such landing places, which create a most unfavourable impression on strangers. The Custom-house, with its wharves and warehouse, the Marine Arsenal and Building-yard, together with the private wharves, occupy a large portion of the water frontage, but there is still sufficient space left, if it were properly laid out, as I believe is intended before very long, for decent landing-places for the public. Speaking of the Custom-house, the source from whence a large portion of the revenue of the country is derived, it is an unsightly building, though immense sums of money have been spent, and are still being spent, in order to obtain adequate accommodation for the increasing trade of the port. Hydraulic lifts and machinery of every possible kind are in course of erection, and a few years will doubtless see the Rio Custom-house take its stand as the finest building of the sort in South America. The old Praça do Commercio, or Exchange, with its dismal vaulted roof, remains unchanged since my last visit, but when the Custom-house is completed I believe it is intended to construct an exchange more worthy of the place, with suitable accommodation attached. This, as well as a foreigners' club, is much required at Rio, where the foreign population is numerous and influential, and ought to be represented in a manner consistent with its importance.

When I lived here in the years 1848 and 1849, there was much sociability,—amongst the English residents at all events—but this appears to have quite died out, and even ceremonial visits are now rarely exchanged. The only society worthy of the name existing in Rio is that associated with the diplomatic circle, which is of course more or less exclusive in its character. I must nevertheless notice one institution in which I found a great change for the better. I mean the English Church. A good deal of money has been spent in connection with this edifice, entirely raised by private subscriptions, and certainly it has been well spent. The recess built out for the communion table is very pretty, and the organ is well placed, in a line with the body of the church. There is a good choir, the whole arrangements being very complete, and the service efficiently performed. The Rev. Mr. Preston is chaplain.

Whilst in Rio, I went to the Palace of Sao Christovao, and had the honour of being presented to the Emperor, whom I was glad to see looking well, but thinner than when I last saw him, fifteen years since. The Palace is well situated, on a rising ground, with a good prospect, and appears to be comfortable enough, but without any gorgeous display. The Court is very simple in its habits, and the democratic tendencies of the people render access to it comparatively easy.

With regard to politics, the Government has generally an opposition party to contend with, both in the Chamber and in the Senate, but without impeding the regular proceedings of these bodies, which, on the whole, are conducted with great decorum, and the speeches are very fully and fairly reported,[5] occupying whole pages of the daily papers. The _Jornal do Commercio_ still stands pre-eminent in the Rio press—as the _Times_, in fact, of the Brazilian Empire.

The political discussions in the press, which are perfectly free, are often pursued with considerable acrimony. At the same time there is a degree of reticence observable which some of our newspaper writers would do well to imitate. Brazil does not lack parliamentary orators or able statesmen, but public business is trammelled with too much of red tapery as at home. The current of popular feeling does not run very deep from the fact that the bulk of the community are too much absorbed in their business occupations to leave them much time for political discussions, to which a large portion of Englishmen devote themselves because they have little else to do. It must not, however, be inferred from this remark that Brazilians are indifferent to what passes inside the walls of the Senate or of the Chamber. The support the Government has received in carrying on a long and costly war proves that the honour and well-being of the Empire is as dear to them as to the most patriotic people.

I am glad to have to record the abolition of passports in Brazil unless specially asked for. I had occasion to notice the inconvenience caused on a late trip to the River Plate, and it is gratifying to see that Brazilian statesmen appreciate the march of events in this respect, as I trust will also soon be the case in facilitating the despatch of passengers' luggage. As a rule, passengers do not carry with them articles subject to duty, though, of course, a surveillance in this matter is quite necessary. At Buenos Ayres there is a custom station on the mole or landing place where passengers can bring their luggage, which is at once examined and passed, thus saving much time and trouble. The Post-office is on the whole pretty well managed and letters are promptly delivered on arrival of the mails. The building is, however, quite unsuited to the requirements of so large a city as Rio de Janeiro, and I learn that it is intended to erect a fine new post-office in a square facing the Bay, which will be a great convenience to the public.

I found the population on the opposite side of the bay had not increased as much as I expected, although the facility of crossing by the large American ferry steamers is a great convenience. Nitherohy is a large straggling place, supposed to contain a population of about 20,000, but there are many houses uninhabited, nor do the Rio people show much partiality for a residence there even at a much less rent. Some handsome villas have been built there, and it is intended to light the place with gas, which would be a decided advantage to the residents. Some of the islands in the upper parts of the bay are now cultivated and inhabited, and numerous small craft ply between them and Rio de Janeiro, bringing down fruits and vegetables.

In the appendix to this volume will be found sundry official documents and statistical information in reference to the resources and commerce of Brazil. The institutions of the Empire are very favourable to mercantile development, and the great progress made within the past half century is indicative of a highly prosperous future.

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Footnote 2:

The Bank, Exchange, Custom House, and Arsenal (of late years greatly
extended) are in the Rua Direita. Besides these, the chief public
edifices and the Imperial Palace, a plain brick building; the Old
Palace, on the shore, used for public offices; a public hospital,
alluded to elsewhere, erected in 1841; a national library, with
800,000 printed volumes, and many valuable MSS.; and a well-supported
opera house, which has supplied Europe with some very popular
performers, especially in the ballet line, as witness that general
favourite, Madame Celeste, who came from Rio, in 1830, with her sister
Constance, another danseuse, and appeared for the first time in
England at Liverpool, in the divertissement in Masaniello, Sinclair
being Auber's hero. The educational establishments are the Imperial
College of Don Pedro II.; the College of St. Jose; Schools of Medicine
and Surgery; Military and Naval Academy; and many public schools. It
has also many scientific institutions; a museum rich in Ornithology,
Entomology, and Mineralogy; and a fine botanic garden. Of churches
there are upwards of fifty, not of much external elegance, but most
sumptuously decorated in the interior.

Footnote 3:

The inhabitants of Rio Janeiro are fond of carriages, but the
specimens generally seen would hardly do for Hyde Park, being chiefly
old-fashioned coaches, drawn by four scraggy mules, with a black
coachman on the box, and a postillion in jack-boots on the leaders,
sitting well back, and with his feet stuck out beyond the mule's
shoulders. The liveries are generally gorgeous enough, and there is no
lack of gold lace on the cocked hats and coats; but a black slave does
not enter into the spirit of the thing, and one footman will have his
hat cocked athwartships, the other fore and aft; one will have shoes
and stockings with his toes peeping through, the other will dispense
with them altogether. But the old peer rolls on unconscious, and I
dare say the whole thing is pronounced a neat turn out. The Brazilians
are great snuff-takers, and always offer their box, if the visitor is
a welcome guest. It is etiquette to take the offered pinch with the
left hand. Rapé is the Portuguese for snuff, hence our word Rappee.
They do not smoke much. The opera was good, the house very large,
tolerably lighted, but not so thickly attended as it might be. The
ladies look better by candle light, their great failing being in their
complexions, the tint of which may be exactly described by the
midshipman's simile of snuff and butter. The orchestra was good, many
of the performers being blacks or mulattos, who are excellent
musicians. The African race seem to like music and generally have a
pretty good ear. Both men and women often whistle well, and I have
heard the washerwomen at their work whistling polkas with great
correctness. I was amused one evening on going out of the opera when
it was half over: offering my ticket to a decent-looking man, he
bowed, but refused it, saying that men with jackets were not allowed
in the house.—_Elves._

Footnote 4:

The population of Rio, on the arrival of the royal family, did not
amount to 50,000, but afterwards rapidly augmented; so that in 1815,
when declared independent, the number had nearly doubled, and now is
estimated at about 400,000 with the suburbs and the provincial capital
of Nitherohy, on the opposite shore of the Bay. This increase is
partly to be ascribed to the afflux of Portuguese, who have at
different times left their country in consequence of the civil
commotions which have disturbed its peace, as well as of English,
French, Dutch, German, and Italians, who, after the opening of the
port, settled here, some as merchants, others as mechanics, and have
contributed largely to its wealth and importance. These accessions of
Europeans have affected a great change in the character of the
population, for at the commencement of the century, and for many years
afterwards, the blacks and coloured persons far exceeded the whites,
whereas now they are reduced to less than half the inhabitants. In the
aggregate population of the empire, however, the coloured portion is
still supposed to be treble the white.

Footnote 5:

The difference between reporting proceedings of the Brazilian and
English legislatures is that the latter appear daily, whilst it takes
many days before speeches in the Brazilian Chambers are published, and
frequently a large double sheet is issued to make up for arrears.

THE WAR IN PARAGUAY.

Leaving for the moment the narrative form, I devote a chapter to this lamentable struggle, which has entailed such serious consequences on Brazil, and which at the time I am writing is yet undetermined. Writers have differed much as to the origin of the war, but none have shown how it could have been avoided. I may observe _en passant_ that so far from having entertained any prejudices against Paraguay, my sympathies have always been in favour of that country as evinced during my visit to the River Plate in 1853, at which period the elder Lopez was alive, and there appeared to be dawning in the future, not only an era of internal development for a very fine, fertile territory, but also a relaxation of the iron rule under which the people had so long groaned, by encouraging, to a limited extent it might be, commercial relations with other countries. Lopez had joined Brazil in putting down the tyranny of Rozas and in restoring a free government to the Argentine provinces; the rivers were to be opened by treaty to all nations, and an era of peace and prosperity appeared to be the natural result of these arrangements. The visit of the younger Lopez to Europe, it was thought, would have instilled into his mind the fact that all the wealth he saw there emanated from commerce, and that his first object would be to render Paraguay a commercial country. Unfortunately, however, he seems to have become more enamoured with the martial attitude of France than anything else, and determined on his return home to develop the military instead of the commercial resources of Paraguay. His ambition was centered in organizing a large army, fortifying the river approaches to Asuncion, and creating a small but efficient steam fleet. The experience of the past was thrown away, and on succeeding his father in the dictatorship, it became evident that his policy was to be one of aggrandisement, if it meant anything at all, and that, in other respects Paraguay was to continue isolated from her neighbours, and to stand aloof from participation in the business of the world. Paraguay had no enemies, nor was there any desire to trouble her; her territorial position secured her safety from attack, and it is impossible that all this military and naval preparation on the part of Lopez could have been merely intended for purposes of self-defence. The truth is, that Lopez had always coveted that portion of territory called the Missions, formerly a great stronghold of the Jesuits, but now part of the Argentine Confederation; and the possession of this would bring him close upon Uruguay, where the sea port of Monte Video afforded a tempting prize. At the same time, all this involved the prospect of a collision with other Powers, against which it was necessary to provide, and this I believe to be the true reason for the great military preparations of Lopez. I have already said that Paraguay joined with Brazil in putting an end to the tyranny of Rozas, and entered into a treaty by which the navigation of the upper rivers was to be free and the independence of Uruguay to be recognised. If ever Brazil had any sinister design on the latter State this was the time when she would have been most likely to assert it, but no such disposition was evinced. On the contrary, it was the wish as well as the interest of Brazil to keep Monte Video a free port, and the rivers open to the flags of all nations. Unfortunately for the peace of South America, Monte Video has never had a strong and independent Government, and during the presidency of Berro disorders broke out on the frontier. The persons and properties of Brazilian subjects were exposed to the inroads of lawless marauders from Uruguay, until at length the patience of the people of Rio Grande was exhausted, and they threatened to take up arms in their own defence, if the Imperial Government did not at once interfere for their protection. This statement has been personally confirmed to me by large landed proprietors who were themselves on the spot and suffered from the causes here referred to. Brazil was, therefore, compelled to send troops to the frontier and to follow the marauders into Uruguay, until such time as she could obtain fresh guarantees from a Government which had proved itself totally incompetent to deal with the matter. Then came the Colorado movement, headed by Flores, and further complications ensued, which might have been settled by the timely intervention of foreign Governments, but the men in power were quite deaf to all friendly remonstrances. The flag of Brazil was grossly insulted, trampled on in the streets of Monte Video, and the treaty with her publicly burnt. Recent melancholy occurrences in that city have shown what excesses can be committed from party spirit, and how difficult it was at the period I allude to, to avoid an armed intervention. How these acts affected the interests of Paraguay it is not easy to conceive. Brazil agreed to recognise the independence of Uruguay, and she left it in that condition, stronger than it had been for some years previously. It is true that about this time Lopez had given notice to Brazil that any interference in the affairs of Uruguay, or the entry of Brazilian troops into Uruguayan territory, would be considered by him as a _casus belli_—a piece of impertinence that Brazil might well disregard, as the rights of nations allowed reprisals for injuries received, and this was all Brazil carried into effect. Up to the point mentioned Lopez had, therefore, no real or ostensible cause of war against Brazil, but she stood in the way of the consummation of his ambitious designs, and so he made what he termed an interference in Uruguay the pretext for setting his legions in motion. Without any declaration of war, he seized and took forcible possession of the steamer Marquis de Olinda whilst on a peaceable errand up the River, with Carneiro de Campos, the President of Matto Grosso on board, and has retained him prisoner ever since; he marched a division into Brazil, and occupied the frontier town of Uruguayana, simultaneously sending his fleet down, no doubt to co-operate with his troops, but this was prevented by the gallant action of the Riachuello, in which the Paraguayan navy was nearly destroyed by the Brazilians. The proceedings of Lopez towards Brazil were, therefore, offensive and insulting in the highest degree, and still more so towards the Argentine Republic, which had really given him no cause of offence beyond daring to remain neutral, and consequently refusing to allow the passage of troops through its territory. Upon the refusal of General Mitre to grant such permission, he crossed the Parana and invaded Corrientes, seizing two Argentine vessels as well as the persons and property of Argentine subjects, on whom he levied black mail. These extreme measures taken by Lopez towards both countries were in pigmy imitation of the first Napoleon, whose tactics Lopez affected to follow by seizing the persons, property, and territory of his neighbours before it was possible for them to offer any opposition. Such an offence against the laws of nations could lead only to an alliance against him as a common enemy, with the condition that the aggrieved nations would not lay down their arms until the offender was punished by expulsion from Paraguay. In Europe this course was adopted against Napoleon I. and in South America, under nearly identical circumstances, an equally strong measure was rendered necessary for the future peace and security of the allies. If a case in point was required on the spot, Paraguay itself had joined in the expulsion of Rozas, because no security existed for any one so long as that tyrant dominated at Buenos Ayres. That neither Brazil nor the Argentine Republic anticipated such conduct on the part of Lopez is evident from the unprepared state of both, the latter being at the time literally without army or navy; indeed, the first check given to the advance of Lopez was by the late General Flores, at the head of a gallant little band of Oriental troops in conjunction with those of Brazil. No impartial person can question, therefore, that Lopez has been the sole cause of this long and bloody war, and that he committed a glaring act of violence towards his neighbours, who were compelled in self-defence to enter into a league for the expulsion of so dangerous a character. To have made peace on any other terms would have been only playing with a firebrand.

It is not my purpose in this chapter to criticise the manner in which the war has been conducted, or to point out mistakes which may have been made. Intelligent Brazilians believe that, instead of sending a large army by sea, it would have been better to have made a diversion by marching across the country to the interior of Paraguay, direct to Asuncion, leaving Humaita blockaded. Thus a large amount of money would have been expended in Brazilian territory. Whether this would have hastened the conclusion of the war it is difficult to say, but the direct advantages in other ways would no doubt have been considerable. However, Brazil is not the only country that has blundered in carrying on a distant war, as we know to our cost. That they did not anticipate so vigorous a resistance is certain, nor was it possible to suppose that any section of the Argentine people, whose nationality had been grossly insulted, would have been lukewarm, or have desired to make peace until the object of the struggle was accomplished.

THE PROVINCE OF SAN PAULO.

Availing of an opportunity to accompany a friend to this province, we left Rio on Tuesday, the 18th of February, on board the steamer Ptolemy, with a remarkably smooth sea, and a light, but cool breeze. We reached Santos early the following morning. The steamer was at once moored alongside an iron wharf, facing the Custom House, and Mr. Miller, one of the railway officials, came on board with the unpleasant information that the railway was stopped, owing to the heavy rains, which appeared to have prevailed here as at Rio. The town did not look very inviting under the influence of a hot sun, but Mr. Miller kindly offered us rooms at the station, where he himself lived, and made us very comfortable. There was every prospect of our being obliged to walk up to the top of the Serra, but fortunately, on the 20th, a telegram came to announce that the line would be opened to San Paulo the next morning, when we started with a small train, arrived at 2.33, and drove to the Hotel d'Italia, where rooms had been engaged for us.

The province of San Paulo has played a distinguished part in the history of Brazil, and has latterly attracted much notice from its production of cotton, in addition to the large quantity of coffee grown and shipped from the port of Santos, both of which articles are expected to be greatly increased by the railway facilities. There can be no doubt that the province offers splendid scope for emigration, if properly applied, and this important subject will be specially treated of after I have collected together the requisite materials. Certainly the size, extent, and evident prosperity of the city of San Paulo surprised me, no less than its superiority in most of the comforts and luxuries to places more favourably situated by their proximity to the sea; but the large number of old churches, convents, colleges, and public institutions date its origin from the time of the Jesuits, who must have been very industrious and wealthy to have found the means for building such huge places, with the object of perpetuating their order, and for the spread of the Roman Catholic religion. I much regretted that the stoppage of the railway, and very unfavourable weather—constant thunder storms, with deluges of rain—prevented me travelling some distance into the interior, where the coffee and cotton plantations lie, but the accounts received from others, who possess a thorough knowledge of the localities, enable me to speak most highly of its resources.

His Excellency, Saldanha Marinho, the President of San Paulo, and who by his affability and business habits has won the esteem and affection of the people, received me kindly during my stay here. He is a determined supporter of every practical measure having for its object the improvement of the city and of the province. Respecting the great work of the railway, on which so much of the future welfare of the province depends, I will endeavour to give a tolerably ample description; but to begin with, it may not be out of place to quote as follows from the work of Mr. Scully, entitled “Brazil and its Chief Provinces”:—

“Passing over the Mugy river you arrive quickly at the foot of the
gorge formed by the two out-jutting spurs of the buttress-like
mountain, and the black defiant ravine is suggestive of anything but
a railway course. Here the line climbs boldly up the side of the
Mugy spur, at a usual ascent of one in ten, crossing mountain
torrents, leaping gloomy chasms, cutting through solid rocks,
holding hard on to every foot gained, until it attains a
resting-place upon the table land, 2,600 feet high, after five miles
of gigantic excavations, removing 1,100,000 cubic yards of granite
rock and earth.

“Here we must give a slight idea of how this daring plan is
utilised, which was at one time laughed at as an engineering
impossibility, and which even yet stands pre-eminent among similar
works.

“This entire and almost straight ascent of upwards of five miles is
divided into four “lifts” of about a mile and a quarter each, having
a level platform of some 400 feet in length between them. On these
lifts, as in general on all the line, the track is single, except at
the upper half, where it is doubled to admit of the ascending and
descending trains passing each other. At the upper end of each
platform is placed a powerful stationary engine of 200 horse-power,
whose two cylinders are 26 inches diameter and 5 feet stroke,
calculated to haul up 50 tons at the rate of ten miles an hour,
which are supplied by five Cornish boilers, three of which suffice
for the duty.

“A steel wire rope, tested to a strength far exceeding the
requirements which will ever be made upon it, passes over a
friction-wheel on each side of the fly-wheel drum upon which it is
wrapped round, and, one end being attached to an ascending and the
other to a descending train, it is intended to make the “lift”
partially self-acting, as it now wholly is at one of the inclines
which is not supplied with its stationary engine, the weight of the
descending train drawing up the ascending one. Powerful brakes that
will stop a train instantly are supplied to guard against a breaking
down of any part of the machinery, or a rupture of the rope. From
this short description our readers can form an idea of the
mechanical contrivances for effecting the ascent.

“Throughout these wonderful inclines the most majestic and wild
scenery is observed along the slightly winding way. On the third
lift occurs a ravine still more gloomy than the rest, which is
called the Boca do Inferno (Mouth of Hell); that, having a width of
900 feet, is crossed by an iron viaduct, which lies on rows of iron
columns resting on stone piers 200 feet below in the centre of the
line.”

I have great pleasure in endorsing all Mr. Scully says as to the excellent qualities of the railway officials, and can also affirm that to Mr. Aubertin and Mr. Hutchings is due the extraordinary development that has been effected in the production of cotton.

THE SAN PAULO RAILWAY.

I will now proceed to describe the railway in my own terms, without reference to the statistics or the reports that have been published about it. My impression on leaving the station was that of setting off on an adventurous journey—not merely ensconcing oneself in the corner of a railway carriage and taking a comfortable nap. Curiosity was excited to the utmost, after the accounts I had heard, and the temporary stoppage of the line by recent heavy rains washing down some of the slopes of the cuttings rather added to the interest of a first visit. There was a tolerable amount of bustle at starting, but away we went about eleven o'clock, over low, swampy ground. For seven miles the rails run parallel with the old road to Santos, and the bridge at Cubitao (an arm of the sea) is passed, beyond which for a further distance of six and a half miles (making 13½ miles to the foot of the Serra) it becomes a dense mass of forest and jungle, which it must be difficult to convert to any useful purpose; indeed, the curse of the country is this mass of useless forest, only fit for the haunts of wild animals and reptiles. How they have hitherto been able to carry on the traffic between Santos and San Paulo is a mystery when we look at the country and miles of wood passed through. However, we are now in sight of the first rise of the mountain, which looks grim enough, and the train comes to a stop at the station, after passing an open space of ground, on which stands a house, built and formerly inhabited by the contractors, with almost a little village about it, occupied by their staff, &c., where, I understand, cricket was often played to while away the leisure hours after the labours of the day. Now everything is going to wreck, and if the land is not kept clear it will soon be a jungle again: such is the quick growth of vegetation in this country and so rank does it become. The station at the foot of the Serra is a good substantial sort of house, the station master being a young German, with a wife and family, very comfortable adjuncts in so lonely a spot; and the house was surrounded by fowls and other live stock needful to family wants. We stood contemplating the height we had to be dragged with a certain kind of awe, and presently we saw the train descending, which it did steadily enough, bringing Mr. Aubertin, the general manager, Captain Burton, her Majesty's consul, and some other notabilities of San Paulo. The former gentlemen returned with us, adding materially to the interest and pleasure of the trip by their intelligent knowledge of all we had to see and pass through.

Well, the signal is given, and we are off, mounting an incline of about 1 in 10 for a distance of some 800 yards, where there is a curve, and we are shut out from the lower level of the line, steadily ascending the mountain, until we reach the first lift, about 1¼ miles. After a short delay, we were hooked on the second lift, and as we mount the scenery becomes grander, the shadows of the mountains deeper, and the work becomes heavier. I was surprised to find so many curves, which are an additional strain on the wire rope, as well as an additional risk, requiring close attention to the break, where we rode in order to have a good view of everything. Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief, and Mr. Welby, locomotive superintendent, were with us, and we got down to look over Fairburn's splendid stationary engines, which are of 200 horse-power, embedded in a granite foundation, about 40 feet deep, with live boilers to each, three being generally used. The curves continue on the third lift, close to which, entering the fourth lift, is the wonderful viaduct across a chasm in the mountain, which makes your head giddy to look down. The bridge is certainly a great engineering achievement, resting on iron pillars with a stone foundation, the centre being nearly 200 feet deep. We are accustomed to great altitude of railway bridges at home and elsewhere, but there is a peculiar aerial look about this one which makes one glad to be over it. At one point in this fourth section is a fine view of a deep valley behind us, the opposite mountain one dense mass of forest, and the scene is inexpressibly grand. To have made the lifts straight would have necessitated frequent tunnelling and added another half million to the cost of construction. On reaching the top of the Serra, a distance of about five miles from its base, the break is detached, a locomotive takes hold of the six carriages which have come up in two lifts, and away we whisk for some time through a thickly wooded country, for a distance of about 48 miles, stopping at several stations. Some miles before reaching San Paulo are the Campos, or level plains, covered with a short grass, and rather swampy, but no cattle are to be seen, owing, I believe, to the number of insects which fasten on them, causing sores, and being otherwise injurious. It is, however, a great relief to the eye, after the dense forests passed through, to come upon plains.

From San Paulo the line passes on to Jundiahy, a distance of 44 miles, or a total length from Santos of 88 miles, the chief interest of course being centred in the gigantic works of the Serra. The San Paulo Railway is undoubtedly one of the grandest works yet made with English capital in Brazil, and it is destined to play a very important part in the future development of this fine province. Engineering mistakes have, undoubtedly, been made, and the want of a personal superintendence of the engineer-in-chief, at all events during the construction of the important works of the Serra, is amongst the complaints made by the Brazilian Government, as also the manner in which the contract was executed. It is also questionable whether another and less costly route could not have been selected to be worked by locomotives, instead of the old fashioned but dangerous lifts. However, for the present, this is mere matter of controversy or opinion. The railway is made, though far from being complete or perfect, and it is evident that a considerable expenditure has to be faced before sufficient traffic can be carried on to realise the expectations of directors and shareholders, few of whom know anything about the undertaking or are able to comprehend the difficulties it has still to pass through.

It is curious that the real traffic is only tapped at the extreme end of the line (Jundiahy), where only commences cotton growing, and the great coffee plantations are some 30 miles further on, to which district a private company is now trying to get the line extended. One advantage possessed by the existing company will be in having their mileage rate for the bulk of their traffic over the whole of the line, and of course it will be an additional advantage to present shareholders if the line should be continued to Campinas, which is, I believe, a large and thriving place, the abode of many wealthy proprietors. Passenger traffic can only be limited for some time to come, from the absence of a resident population along the line; at the same time it will naturally increase between Santos, San Paulo, and the upper part of the Province, particularly when the line is extended in that direction. The stoppage of the line is between San Paulo and Jundiahy, where the cuttings have given way to some extent, a contingency, I fear, they will always be exposed to, from the heavy rains which prevail, and I believe I am justified in adding, the imperfect manner in which some of them have been constructed. Whilst expressing my admiration at the courage and enterprise of the resident engineer and superintendent, who jointly succeeded in getting the line opened, I cannot conceal from myself the difficulties they have still to overcome in order to carry on an adequate traffic and get the line accepted by Government. One thing is very certain, that had a deputation of shareholders been sent out to look over the intended line before fairly concluding the contract for making it, they would have returned so scared and frightened as to have led to an immediate dissolution of the company, and San Paulo would hardly have had its railway in this generation, so far as English capital is concerned. I well remember the kind of awe with which I looked over the plans and sections of the line before it was commenced, nor has this effect been diminished by a personal inspection of the works up to this place. That the railway will be a grand thing for the province there can be no doubt, and this consideration ought to render the Government lenient towards a company which, apart from its other difficulties, has suffered so much by maladministration at home.

In describing the works of the Serra, I have omitted to allude to the double rails which are laid near approaches to the stationary engines, so that the trains can pass each other, which, of course, they are constantly doing, one up and the other down, on the several lifts. I was at a loss also to understand how they could work their goods traffic to a large extent with the amount of trains running. I now find the latter applies only to the passengers, and that produce is dealt with separately, collected at the top of the Serra, and sent down during the day, three waggon loads at a time, the waggons being collected together at the foot of the Serra, and taken on to the station at Santos as convenient. These arrangements necessitate a large amount of rolling stock and extra shed accommodation, which I believe is about to be supplied. Another feature in the works of the Serra is the loose kind of material they have had to go through instead of granite rock, which they expected, the former being apt to crumble away from the effects of rain, although latterly the road has stood very well in this respect. Some of the embankments crossing the gorges of the mountains are almost perpendicular, and involved a heavy amount of labour and expense. It is quite frightful to look down them. Of course the traffic of the Serra can only be worked from sunrise to sunset, but a large amount of produce can be brought down during that time.

I have now to record a trip over the remaining portion of the line to Jundiahy, the terminus. An announcement had been issued that traffic would be resumed over the whole line on the 2nd March, but a continuance of wet weather caused further and serious impediment, so I availed of the kindness of the officials, who were making a survey of the state of the works, to go to Jundiahy in the best manner circumstances would permit. We started about 8 a.m., on Tuesday, the 23rd March, in a carriage attached to the engine, having, amongst others, Mr. Aubertin, superintendent; Mr. Fox, engineer-in-chief; the fiscal, or Government engineer; the Postmaster-General, Captain Burton, and other persons, with some luggage belonging to them, and some small stores for the use of the line.

My impression was that I had seen the heaviest works on the line, but this was a great mistake, as I soon found out. The first few miles were not of much interest, but afterwards, as we approached the mountain scenery, the view became very fine,—the bold outline of the Jaraguay, a mountain where gold mines exist, but long since ceased working—deep gorges began to open out, and huge hanging forests towered above us, in their wildest and most primitive form. At the first station I got on the engine with Mr. Fox, and certainly it is difficult to imagine a country less adapted to a railway—making it against nature, as some one significantly observed. It is a succession of deep cuttings, high embankments, curves, and heavy gradients the whole distance, at times with an incline of 1 in 45, and only occasionally what may be termed a bit of straight road. It is really wonderful how people could be found to make such a railway in this country. Scarcely a human habitation to be seen along the whole distance, except the rough mud huts for persons connected with it; and about three stations between San Paulo and Jundiahy. The stations themselves are barely sufficient for the station master to live in, though probably adequate under present circumstances. At one of them (Belem) a small quantity of cotton was stored, having gone there direct, but no means of forwarding it on at present.

The ordinary mule road to Jundiahy crosses and runs parallel to the railway for some distance, and a wretched state it appeared to be in—deep mud holes and quagmires, through which the poor mules have to struggle.

I must now refer to some of our difficulties, resulting from the state in which we found the road. The first actual gap occurs some seventeen or eighteen miles from San Paulo, where the river current has carried away a large culvert, the rails and iron bowls (sleepers) attached to them hanging suspended for some twenty feet. They were at work rebuilding another culvert. We had to leave the carriage, cross the stream, and, walking some little distance, to get to another engine, which with a ballast truck was waiting there. On we went again, at times having to pull up or go slowly over slippery places, until we passed the tunnel, with water dripping from the roof. On the other side of the tunnel occurs the most serious stoppage, the whole side of a huge hill having apparently moved forward, the advanced portion of it blocking up the road. Some under current has raised the rails several feet in places, notwithstanding the immense piles of timber that have been driven in to prevent encroachment. The conclusion is that a mass of quicksands, swollen by the heavy rains, has forced its way under the hill side and under the bed of the railway. The labour here will be very great, by having to remove the falling mass, and the uncertainty is when the movement may subside. The “mountain in labour” has brought forth no “ridiculus mus” in this case. After walking past this obstruction, we again mounted on the ballast truck, and went along until we came to a place where the river had quite overflowed the rails, and the engine had to force its way through two or three feet of water, of course at a very slow and cautious pace; here they are raising the road so as to escape, if possible, future inundations. Once through this last impediment, we rattled along over a good hard bit of road at a good pace to Jundiahy, the end of our adventurous journey. The station is a little distance from the town, which stands on a hill, and after partaking of some solid refreshments, which we fortunately found ready at the Railway Hotel, in half an hour we were again on a ballast truck going through the same process of changing from one truck to another, walking over slippery ground, until we finally again joined the carriage on the opposite side of the broken culvert, before arriving at which a thunder storm came on, accompanied by torrents of rain, and most of us were thoroughly wet through. The storm continued nearly to San Paulo, but it is amongst the gorges of the mountains it comes down most furiously.