Chapter IV: Part 4

The road belongs to a Brazilian company called the “Uniao e Industria,” started some few years back, and now carrying on a large and profitable traffic, chiefly in merchandise; but the stage coaches are a very important feature as regards accommodation for the public. The stations where they change mules are large and commodious, with warehouses for receiving produce, and that of Parahybuna is in a most picturesque situation, a huge granite mountain on one side and in front of the river, which rushes down over rocks, forming cascades here and there, with a long bridge which we had to cross. A good many dwelling houses are built about these stations, belonging, I conclude, to people connected with the road. Our next station was Simon Pereira, about which there is a good deal of woodland scenery, reminding one of parts of Wales, with the road winding in and out round the hills; and on this stage is a very fine fazenda known by the name of Solidade, the property of the Baron Bertiago, comprising, I am told, an immense district. Here we again come upon the mountain stream, which runs through the valley, always forming a rapid current as we keep ascending.

The next stage was Barboza, where we came up with another diligence, also from Petropolis, with a party, having a band of music outside, and Portuguese and Brazilian flags flying. They kept ahead of us, but at the last stage, Ponto Americano, a most romantic spot, we started almost together, our companion still keeping the lead, at a strong gallop, which our coachman imitated, and it was anything but an agreeable race into Juiz de Fora, to say nothing of the dust we had to take up in the wake of the front diligence. Nothing could be more beautiful than the scenery for the last stages, coffee and Indian corn plantations succeeded each other, mingled with virgin forests, grazing ground, waterfalls in the distance, entire trees covered with purple and yellow flowers, a perfect galaxy of tropical vegetation in its most attractive forms. The evening was pleasantly cool,—so cool as to cause one to button up his coat, and there was a sensation of freshness in the air like that of an autumn evening at home.

As the two coaches approached Juiz de Fora a large number of its residents turned out to see the arrival, which I believe was that of some new settlers, who must have been gratified with their reception. We drove on to the coach station, where I found that the gentleman I was anxious to see had gone to his fazenda that morning, some leagues distant; so I determined to await his return and went to a small hotel close to, called the “Union,” where I made myself as comfortable as the limited accommodation would permit.

Juiz de Fora is pleasantly situated on an elevated plateau, some 2,600 feet above the level of the sea, with a background of fine cultivated hills and a very picturesque waterfall. The originator and director of the flourishing company “Uniao e Industria” has built a magnificent house on an elevated spot which overlooks the whole valley, and his grounds are beautifully laid out with every species of tree to be found in Brazil, as well as those brought from other countries. There are ornamental waters, with swans, rare specimens of water fowl, and numbers of valuable birds, fowls, monkeys,—in fact, a little Zoological Garden of itself. Everything in the establishment was in keeping, evincing the good taste of the owner and the liberal manner in which he expends his large fortune. I had also the opportunity of going over a new building called the School of Agriculture, where modern agricultural implements are to be collected, as well as samples of live stock to improve the breed of cattle. There is a capital English stallion, two years old, descended from the celebrated Stockwell, brought out from England at great expense; another one of Norman breed, besides brood mares, bulls, Alderney cows—in short, the nucleus of a respectable cattle show, which it is intended to become, and the Emperor has announced his intention to visit the place in June next, though it will take some time to make it complete and in a state of efficiency. An intelligent Swiss gentleman presides over the School of Agriculture, and an English groom is very proud, as he may well be, of the silky coat and the healthy appearance of the descendant of Stockwell.

There is a nice little German colony at Juiz de Fora, mostly artisans in the company's employ, who live in very snug cottages, with little gardens attached to them, the women keeping cows, selling milk, &c. A death had occurred the day I was there, and the funeral was attended by all the elders of the colony, men and women, dressed in their best clothes, forming a very interesting group. The company employ some 3,000 mules in the traffic of their line, the breakers of them, as well as the coach drivers, being Germans. Mr. Treloar, jun., arrived from Rio with his wife and family during my stay here, leaving the next day with a large troop of mules, on a seven days' journey up to the mines.

Having seen all of interest in Juiz de Fora, I started on Thursday, the 9th of April, to return to Entre Rios, and thence on by the same “Uniao e Industria” road to Petropolis, a total distance of about 107 miles. I found the second half of the road as interesting as the first half I had gone over—all in the same perfect state, some parts between Entre Rios and Petropolis passing through splendid mountain scenery. Near Entre Rios the river is crossed by a very fine iron bridge. We reached Petropolis at dusk, amidst a shower of rain, the first I had met with on the whole journey, during which the weather was remarkably fine and cool in the higher ranges of the road, though hot and dusty on the level parts. For nearly the whole fifty miles the road winds by the bed of a rapid mountain stream, descending from the mountainous district about Petropolis, going to swell the river of which it is the source, forming a succession of cascades, the noise of whose waters makes “music to the ear,” enhancing the grandeur of the scenery through which it passes as well as cooling the atmosphere.

I should not neglect to mention the extensive cart traffic over the road, which constitutes the real income of the company, and has enabled it to pay the large dividend of 10 to 14 per cent. These carts are all of one pattern, with names and numbers on them, drawn generally by five mules, with a spare one attached. We were constantly meeting them going up and down, and whether they have got more into the way of it, or the mules are now better trained, we met with no such inconveniences as Mr. Hinchcliffe describes in his book, though the windings and turnings of the road are often of such a nature as to require a “bright look out,” and the use of a shrill whistle—the horn being only sounded on approaching the end of the journey. By means of the rail and coach, Rio morning papers are delivered at Juiz de Fora, a distance of 170 miles by rail and road, the same evening. Formerly it required a week to communicate between the two places. A large quantity of stone is collected along the road to keep it in order, and at certain distances are men breaking them in the most old fashioned manner possible. They are chiefly Portuguese immigrants.

I had not been at Petropolis for twenty years, during which time there has been a large increase of building and population, but I was sorry to learn that this prosperity is likely to be evanescent, in consequence of the soil suitable for cultivation by the German colonists being worn out, and still more by the Dom Pedro II. Railway turning the stream of traffic, which previously to its opening to Entre Rios had continued to flow from the mines through Petropolis and down the splendid mountain road, conveying goods and passengers to the Mauá Railway, and thence by steamer to Rio. Of course, the railway from Entre Rios to Rio de Janeiro, though longer as regards mileage, is quicker and more direct, with a saving in expense to travellers, even if produce and merchandise were conveyed at equal rates by the two roads, but it must be the interest of the country to keep both the roads open, as, in the case of accidental stoppage, the Petropolis one is always available. It is not unlikely that terms will be come to by the two companies so as to prevent injurious competition, as the country has had to pay large sums of money for the installation and maintenance of both roads.

I remained over Sunday at Petropolis, but it turned out a very wet day, and I was not able to go about much, or to take advantage of the splendid view there is from the top of the mountain down to the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. We started at 6.30 on Monday morning in a carriage with four mules, and descended amidst heavy rain and a dense mist, so that none of the beauties of the locality were visible. At the foot of the Serra, the railway train was waiting, and we soon reached the place of embarkation by steamer, arriving at Rio about 10.30, after a week's absence, during which I have acquired a better knowledge of the progress and resources of this part of the country than any other means of information could have supplied. As regards the great internal road on which I have dwelt so much, it is decidedly one of the marvels of Brazil.

RIO DE JANEIRO TO THE RIVER PLATE.

SECOND TRIP.

On my return to Rio on Saturday, the 11th of April I found the City of Brussels had arrived after a very quick passage from Falmouth of twenty days, and she was leaving next morning (Sunday) for the River; so I resolved to go by her and complete my visit, which had been so recently unfortunately interrupted. A difficulty occurred, owing to the police requiring me to give three days' notice in the public papers of my intention to leave, and they refused to _visa_ the passport I brought with me, though it had already served on other similar occasions. The only way to get over the obstacle was to take a surety to the police office, who would be responsible for any debts I might have contracted, and after driving backwards and forwards for some hours, at considerable trouble and expense, this requirement was satisfied. This absurd and vexatious system of passports is one of the old relics of barbarism which Brazil ought to do away with, and the sooner the better; nor is it any protection against roguery, as every one knows how easily such regulations are evaded in the latter case. Countries like Brazil ought to be as free as the air, and all possible facility given to travellers who only come for information or amusement, and have no business relations. Passports do not exist in the Great Republic of the North, and France has abolished them, so let us hope Brazil will follow in the wake, and evince equal liberality in dealing with passengers' luggage.

We were to leave at 8 a.m. on Sunday, but were detained for dispatches until ten, and finally passed the fort at 11 a.m., with a light wind but much swell, indicating a southerly wind, of which we got the benefit the next day. I may mention that the City of Brussels is a splendid new steamer of Tait's line, and made the first departure under their contract with the Belgian Government. At Antwerp a grand entertainment had been given to the authorities on the day of her departure, and on Saturday a party was entertained on board at Rio.

After encountering rather a strong southerly gale, we made the River on Thursday night, and came to an anchor off Monte Video early on Friday, the passage having been run in five days. It blew so hard, with so much swell on, that it was some time before we got on shore, on reaching which I went to my old quarters at the Gran Hotel Americano, meeting several old friends there. The aspect of Monte Video was greatly changed for the better since my last visit, when the cholera was making such fearful ravages and an air of activity pervaded the place, notwithstanding the sad tragedy which had occurred in the assassination of General Flores. Rumours of political troubles still prevailed, but there was nothing on the surface to indicate them, and the nightly gathering on the Plaza to hear the band had been resumed, although for some time after the murder of the President the Plaza was held by troops and guns planted at the corner of it.

A visit to Buchentall's quinta occupied the greater part of one day, and a delightful place it is, enclosed in spacious grounds, provided with choice trees, beautiful exotics, a large conservatory, and other glass houses; in fact, with everything which a cultivated taste can devise. There is a large kitchen garden attached, and quite a plantation of pear trees, loaded with splendid pears, for which Monte Video is famous. The stables and farm buildings are extensive, and, like the house, they are in the Swiss cottage style; they are tenanted by fine horses, valuable cows, and other descriptions of cattle. Everything is in perfect order. The view from the upper ground, at the back of the house, is very fine—the city, the harbour filled with shipping, and the mounts at its entrance, the waters of the La Plata glistening beyond in the sunlight. It is a bright, beautiful day, and certainly at this season the climate is very agreeable, so different from the intense heat experienced in the month of January. After leaving the quinta, we extended our drive, passing by many pretty country houses, some of peculiar but tasteful architecture, and stopped at a house on the road side, kept by a Frenchman, where we got an excellent cold luncheon and drove back to the city.

Expecting the steamer to sail the same night, we embarked before dark, but were disappointed, the cargo not being all discharged. We did not get away until next evening. Had we known this we might have seen the races, which took place the following morning, to see which I believe more than half the population turned out, the Custom House and public buildings being closed. South Americans are fond of excitement, though horse-racing is comparatively a new amusement for them, being chiefly got up by foreigners. Whilst at dinner on Monday afternoon, the wind, which had been blowing moderately from the north, suddenly veered round to the south, and soon after we left the harbour increased to a pampero, causing a nasty cross sea and a very disagreeable motion in the ship, which sent most of the passengers to bed early. It is not a very pleasant navigation in such weather, with banks lying in the way, and shallow water in many places, and we were glad when daylight came to find ourselves near the outer roads of Buenos Ayres. This exposed roadstead, having to lie so far from the shore, is a great drawback, rendering the expense of discharging and loading very heavy, but there is no help for it, nor any prospect of improvement in this respect. They have very fine boats and lighters, with first-rate boatmen, and, as a rule, accidents are rare, unless when the fierce pamperos drive everything before them.

This is my second visit to Buenos Ayres, after a lapse of 15 years, and, although from the sea no remarkable change appears to the eye, yet, after landing, the enormous increase of the city soon becomes apparent, about which I shall say more presently. The Mole and Custom House were new to me, as also the landing pier for boats—a very great convenience and improvement on the old carts, into which you had to get from the boat. The weather, which had been cool at Monte Video, became positively cold here, cloaks and great coats being the order of the day. It is now approaching the coldest season of the year, with some sharp frost at night, which has blackened the potatoes and other vegetables outside the city; and the sunny side of the street is decidedly preferable to the shady one, a very different state of things to that which existed when I was at Monte Video, in January, with the heat frequently above 90 degrees.

CITY OF BUENOS AYRES.

It is not an easy task to describe the great changes that have taken place in this city since my visit fourteen years ago. At the same time they are so remarkable as to require a special notice.

My views at that time were sanguine as to the progress of these River Plate countries, but they have been more than realised, notwithstanding political and other drawbacks. Suffice it to say that Buenos Ayres has nearly doubled in size since I was last here, and, although no public census that I am aware of has ever been taken, the population of the city and environs must almost have augmented in the same ratio. The difficulties of the roadstead remain, but a forest of masts, extending for many miles in the outer and inner roads, together with a considerable number of steamers (the latter particularly in the inner roads) meets the eye, and two piers, or moles, have been erected, one exclusively used for Custom House purposes, the other for boats and passengers, but a large portion of the traffic is still carried on by the carts which go alongside the boats with cargo or to take it away. Landing at the mole, a busy scene presents itself in the conveyance of passengers' luggage, which is taken charge of by the peons or porters, and carried for examination to the little depot at the entrance to the mole. Afterwards it is allowed to proceed in carts or carriages to its destination.

Being built in squares, the increase of the city is not very apparent until you get fairly into it; but the numerous two or three-storied houses, the large new hotels, the fine shops and warehouses, and the great movement in the street, all indicate a thriving place of business, which Buenos Ayres unquestionably is. Most of the streets running direct from the river are now three miles in length, and they cover an equal breadth, so it is easy to judge the extent of the ground covered; besides which, very many handsome quintas, or country houses, are to be seen in every direction outside the city. The streets generally are badly paved, and make very rough work for carts and carriages passing over them, but these manage to get along with considerable wear and tear of wheels and springs, as well as horses' feet, which, however, appear to be quite a secondary consideration. After the well-paved streets of Rio de Janeiro, both Monte Video and Buenos Ayres cut a very poor figure; but the worst feature is the absence of sewerage, and the refuse of the town is at times very offensive to the olfactory nerves, and destroys the appellative “good airs,” which is otherwise a characteristic of the place under ordinary circumstances, or as nature intended it to be. The inhabitants seem to have had a wretched municipal system; but for this there is no reason why the city should not be well drained, well paved, as well as properly lighted with gas, which latter is now the case.

Strangers have a choice of really very large and commodious hotels, and there are boarding and lodging houses of various kinds, but at seasons accommodation in them is very difficult to obtain, such is the constant increase of demand by visitors as well as by permanent residents; in fact, the requirements of the population are constantly overtaking the facilities of the city, and there appears to be no reasonable limit to its extension north, south, and west, the river facing eastward. The chief increase, however, has been westward, or in a straight line from the river frontage into the country. Owing to the necessities of an augmenting population, the price of building land in or near the city has been driven up to a very high figure, and rents, as a matter of course, are excessive. Increased population has been followed by enhanced luxury, which manifests itself in the style of architecture, in the splendid shops, in the number of private carriages as well as those for hire, but naturally this has been attended by an inflated expenditure. Living in Buenos Ayres is now quite as expensive as in London or Paris; perhaps more so as regards luxuries, the import duties on which are very heavy. Generally, Buenos Ayres is a dear place to live in. Amongst other new buildings is the large theatre called Colon, and a Music-hall, the latter erected by private subscription. It is lofty and light, tastefully decorated, and I believe very well filled when concerts are held there, being also occasionally used for dinners.

The busiest part of the city, commercially speaking, is down by the Custom House and on to the Boca, the latter the rendezvous of lighters conveying produce to the ships in the outer roads, as well as of small steamers bound up river, and I understand that 300 lighters are now engaged in this work, many of them of good size and decked over. It is in contemplation to deepen and enlarge the Riachuelo, as the stream alluded to is called, and a most useful work it will be, as it is almost the mainstay of the port. At the other extremity of the city, which borders on the Northern Railway, washing of clothes is carried on among the willow trees which border the river; it is quite a sight on a fine sunny day. On the high ground about and beyond the Retiro, numerous handsome villas have been erected and the Retiro itself has been planted with trees, forming a pleasant promenade. In addition to other improvements and conveniences, omnibuses now ply from the city in various directions, so that locomotion is greatly facilitated, and people can live out of the city without the trouble of keeping conveyances, if they object to this, or have not the means to maintain them. Commerce is extending rapidly, and the Custom House revenue has doubled itself within a very few years.

BUENOS AYRES TO COLONIA.—ESTANZUELLA.

The invitation of Mr. William White to spend a few days at his estancia took me over to Colonia, from which it is distant about 15 miles, amidst the beautiful undulating country of the Banda Oriental. Three to four hours is the time usually occupied in crossing the river, almost in a direct line from Buenos Ayres, and the steamer in which I embarked had very comfortable accommodation but few passengers on board. There was a small boat in opposition to the one I was in, and we arrived very close together.

Colonia is one of the oldest settlements in the River, being built upon a peninsula jutting out into the stream, with a snug little harbour, which is in course of improvement. The town presents a dilapidated and neglected appearance, which is accounted for by its having, until recently, been fortified, and made the head-quarters of different factions during the long civil wars. There is a large church, with three high towers, visible at a considerable distance, and a lighthouse for the protection of vessels passing, as several low islands are situated close to the harbour. Some good looking houses have lately been erected, and the site of a new town laid, but it will be many years before it is likely to assume any importance. I noticed an old gateway, with an inscription dated 1724 over it.

I found Mr. White's carriage waiting for me at Colonia. It was drawn by four horses, the road being heavy for a few miles, but after that we got into a good one,—a kind of beaten track over what is called the campo, and for the first time I realised the pleasurable feeling of travelling over a sea of land, if it can be so named, where, excepting an occasional _puesto_, or shepherd's hut, not a human habitation is to be seen. The undulations of the land are here very like the long roll of the ocean, by which it is supposed to have been formed, and you are at once in the midst of cattle, horses, and sheep, with grass and thistles growing everywhere, the thistles in many cases being masters of the situation.

It was getting foggy before we reached Mr. White's estancia, but the light of the moon assisted our course across an apparently trackless country. I found Mr. White's quinta a very pretty and comfortable residence, surrounded by trees and evergreens, all of which have been planted by the present owner. The whole place is in fact the creation of some ten years, showing what can be done in this country by a judicious application of capital and labour. The house and estate cover a space of some nine square miles, the former being built on an elevated spot, called “Monte” (or the “Mount,”) and occupying with grounds about 50 acres of good rich soil, overlooking an amphitheatre of hill and dale, which stretches as far as the eye can reach, with “puestos” or shepherds' cottages at regular distances, where the cattle and sheep are collected together at dusk and let out again at daylight. This is a most interesting process, which I have seen described, but it can only be realised personally. It is something like marshalling a scattered army and bringing them into a given square. The shepherds or peons go galloping about until the cattle and sheep are gathered together, when they all, as by a kind of instinct, find their way to the corral or fold. At dawn the following morning they are let out again and roam for miles over the estate. The arrangements at a good estancia like that of Mr. White's are very complete, and every one understands his work, but of course the eye of a master is required to see that the work is properly done. The stock on this estancia consists of about 30,000 sheep, upwards of 1,000 head of cattle, and some 100 horses.

My first day was employed in visiting several of the stations, and very agreeable it was cantering over the springy turf, clothed with grass and thistles, where the sheep and cattle were quietly feeding. Buttercups glittered in the sunshine, but we missed the modest daisies so familiar at home. We were on horseback five hours, and I returned to dinner highly delighted with all I had seen. The second day we took the carriage and a gun, as partridges are plentiful and innumerable flocks of doves. Paid a visit to the estancia of Mr. Giffard, about six miles distant in a direct line, but further by the course we had to take, partly over the open campo. Returning we came close upon some half-dozen ostriches and Mr. White shot at and wounded a very fine male; but it was a painful sight to see the struggles of the poor bird, and we were obliged to get one of the men from a neighbouring station to dispatch it with his knife. Many of these noble birds are still to be met with in the campo, where they are pursued by the natives for the value of the feathers. I was presented with a portion of the feathers of the ostrich killed as described. The third day we were again on horseback for several hours, with a boy carrying a gun and some refreshment. We rode along one of the running streams with which the campo is favoured, to look for some ducks, but the streams were very low, and we only succeeded in bagging one. These streams are invaluable for cattle, and the Banda Oriental in this respect is more fortunate than Buenos Ayres, and in consequence suffers less from drought. Finding game so scarce, the boy was sent home, and we cantered on to visit some of the other stations I had not yet seen, the weather throughout being beautifully fine, clear sunshine, with a bracing and most exhilarating breeze.

There are some curious collections of rocks mostly on the margins of the streams. Huge boulders, thrown up it would seem by some convulsion of nature, and between which trees and enormous cactuses have forced their way, in cases even splitting the stone, especially present a most singular appearance. About Mr. Giffard's quinta there is quite a large formation of this kind, and a collection of very fine ombu trees, several with immense trunks and evidently of great age.

To-day, the last of my visit, has been spent in riding about the quinta, watching the operation of lassoing and bringing into the corral a refractory bull and cow that had left their companions and roamed miles away. The dexterity of the peons, and the way they manage their horses on these occasions, is something wonderful, and fairly exhausts the strength of the animals.

This is the finest season of the year in these countries, and it is impossible to imagine anything more pleasing or more cheerful than the present aspect of the campo. The next two or three months constitute the winter season, which is rainy and cold. September and October (their spring) are generally fine. The heat of summer is, of course, considerable, but it is not so much felt in the open country, where a fresh breeze, as a rule, prevails; it is the towns that are most disagreeable at that period.

To-morrow, I return to Colonia, highly gratified with all I have observed, and with the kind hospitality I have experienced. As I have said, partridges are abundant, but they commonly go singly, and without a pointer they are difficult to follow. Mr. White, however, shot two brace close to his house, when we were walking out before breakfast, and several single ones on other occasions. They are prettily marked birds and delicate eating. He did not happen to have a suitable dog by him at the time. The shepherds all keep fine dogs, mostly of the retriever breed, to assist them in managing their flocks, and there were a good many attached to the house and out-buildings; one of the former, a Scotch terrier, and myself becoming very great friends.

TRIP ON THE CENTRAL ARGENTINE RAILWAY.

I am writing this on board the “Lujan” steamer, built in Buenos Ayres, with engines by a Glasgow house. She is a comfortable boat, with good accommodation for passengers, and the “vivers” excellent, including even champagne at dinner, which in this country is rather an expensive luxury. After a lapse of fifteen years I find myself once more ascending the noble Parana river, which at that time was almost unknown in Buenos Ayres, the little “Argentine” being the first commercial steamer that ever navigated its waters. I predicted the results a few years would bring about, and my expectations have been more than realised, the river being now as freely navigated by steamers as some of those in the United States, with the difference of course that there is not the same amount of population on its banks—population being still the great want of this boundless region.

The station for passengers for the up-river boats is now the terminus of the Northern Railway, at a small stream called Tigre, which is reached in something over an hour's time. We left the station at 10 a.m., and arrived at the wharf alongside which the steamer lay at 11.30. All the passengers, with their luggage, were soon on board, and we started, wending our way through the small branches of the Parana, in many places not wider than a canal, the steamer brushing against the overhanging trees. A couple of hours brought us at last into the wide embouchure of the river at a point named Palmas.

The advantage of the Tigre as a starting point for steamers is that it avoids the disagreeable boating in the roads of Buenos Ayres and crossing the bay for Martin Garcia; in every way it is a desirable arrangement, alike beneficial to the steamers and to the railway. Upwards of a dozen steamers were laying outside the Tigre, in a stream called Lujan (after which this boat is named), two of them large double-decked Yankee river boats and nearly all of them without occupation—a terrible sacrifice of valuable property. Having discussed a solid _dejeuner à la fourchette_, I came on deck to enjoy the scenery. It was blowing a fresh breeze, dead against us, with a strong current and very cold, cloaks and great coats being a necessity although the day was bright and sunny. For several hours we steamed along, passing only jungle and dense masses of trees, with numerous sailing craft at anchor, laden with cargo, many bound upwards, no doubt with stores for the army in Paraguay.

Just before sunset we passed a very fine quinta, belonging to the Minister of Education, Senor Costa, built on a beautiful barranca, or elevated ground, a short way from the river, the horsemen on the heights presenting a very picturesque appearance.

Dinner was announced, which occupied fully an hour, and afterwards I went on deck and enjoyed a night on the noble Parana. The wind had gone down, and the stars shed their light over the still water, on which the shadow of the trees was reflected, our course being occasionally close to them, though at times we had to take the mid stream. Now and again the sky was lighted up with fires, caused, I believe, by the burning of wood for charcoal, a process which might go on for centuries without exhausting the illimitable extent of wood. A large traffic is carried on in this material by river craft to Buenos Ayres and Monte Video. We stopped to land passengers at a station called Hermanos, and soon after passed two or three steamers at anchor, with some sailing vessels near them, no doubt connected with the war services. Our passengers are a motley group, speaking all languages, and amusing themselves by playing cards, chess, and dominoes, the while talking and chattering away at the top of their voices; some ladies amongst them as merry as the rest. Many Italians, French, and Germans are met on board these steamers, but comparatively few English, who remain more in the cities and towns, or at their estancias when resident in the country. After a fine, clear, starlight night, the latter part aided by a bright moon, the day broke grandly, and we soon came to anchor at the little port of San Nicolas, where we landed and took in some passengers. Then came a good, substantial breakfast, and at about eleven o'clock the large saladeros near Rosario were in sight. We brought up alongside a coal hulk, where the steamer had to take in fuel before returning to Buenos Ayres the same afternoon.

A number of sailing vessels and steamers were laying at anchor at Rosario, making quite a busy scene. I landed in a small punt to find my way to the house of a friend. The aspect of Rosario was not much changed, looking at it from the river, with the towers of the church in the background, the town itself being more or less concealed by the high barranca. On entering it, however, I was quite lost. Streets have been extended in every direction for more than a mile, and I should say it has doubled or trebled in size and population since I was here. Whatever prejudicial effects the Paraguayan war may have produced in other respects, there can be no question that Rosario has largely benefitted, the place being one of call for steamers and sailing vessels up and down; and it also supplies a considerable quantity of stores for the army. The value of land and property has gone up to a high figure, and the poorer portion of the population are obliged to squat wherever they can find room to build a rancho, or kind of mud hut. Gauchos galloping about in their picturesque costume showed that we were in a new province, and although civilisation has extended itself here somewhat after the fashion of Buenos Ayres, there are evident signs that it is intermingled with much of the wild habits of a life in the Pampas.

The great object of my visit here was of course to see the Central Argentine Railway, and certainly those accustomed to the imposing appearance of railway stations at home will hardly be impressed with the rough and ready wildness of the scene which presents itself here. A few disjointed wooden sheds in an open plain, one side bordering on the river, some carriages and covered waggons on the rails, at this time constitutes the terminus of a line already carried 158 miles into the interior; but all this is merely temporary and will give place to the permanent station now in process of formation, and upon which hundreds of labourers are at present constantly at work. The material is all there in readiness, and the station would have been much further advanced had it not been for the cholera, which caused such terrible devastations here a few months ago. Internal commotions have also tended to retard progress. Happily these scourges are for the time at least passed away, and it is to be hoped nothing will again interfere to prevent the completion of a line of such vital interest in connection with the material development of the country between Rosario and Cordova.

I was curious to see the first arrival and starting of the trains, which did not indicate much traffic; but this can hardly be looked for until the metals are carried through and the railway possesses all the needful appliances, not to speak of the prejudices of a people who have been accustomed to gallop over the wide plains like the Arabs of old, and use those antique structures drawn by bullocks, which are yet destined to be abandoned to rot in their final resting place, or be removed further west to bring traffic to the Cordova station. Engineeringly speaking, it is the easiest possible task to make a railway through such a country as this, but other drawbacks and difficulties exist in the absence of population and of conveniences to which we are accustomed in England. It is a refreshing sight in Rosario to see so large a mixture of the foreign element. New banks and large establishments are in operation and Estanceiros constantly coming into town to transact their business. Among the visitors at Rosario are many Englishmen from the districts round about, who have not been murdered by the Indians, notwithstanding the stories prevalent to that effect, and I hear of numerous thriving colonies in the neighbourhood, which I regret time will not permit my visiting, as the extent of my ramble must now be confined to going over the railway. I repeat that my impression as to the future of Rosario, after all it has lately gone through, is favourable, and I am perfectly satisfied of the go-a-head nature of every thing in this prosperous province.

The train for Rosario starts at 8 a.m., and is due at Villa Nueva, a distance of 158 miles, at 6 p.m., travelling at an average speed of nearly sixteen miles an hour, including eight stoppages—quite sufficient for present purposes, with a train composed of waggons and two American passenger cars, one for first and the other for second class. We got off a little after eight o'clock with a good long train and the cars were pretty well filled. For the first two or three stations the ground is slightly undulating, covered with good pasture, on which numerous herds of cattle, flocks of sheep, and horses were feeding; afterwards, or about half-way between Rosario and Villa Nueva, there are few cattle seen, though the food for them is there in any quantity. At Roldan, the first station from Rosario, some tents were erected, and horses collected, in course of training for the races to be held on Monday next, the 25th of May, at which there is generally a large gathering of sporting characters from that and other districts, as also of spectators from Rosario. It is an English club, with the usual array of stewards, umpires, &c. The meeting is expected to be a very good one. The next station is Carcaranal, near which the river is crossed by a handsome iron bridge, the river itself flowing for a very long distance through the province of Cordova and Santa Fé, ultimately merging its waters with those of the Parana. These first two stations are mere mud huts, being only temporary, but Carcaranal has the additional disadvantage of being placed in the midst of a black, dismal, dry lagoon, where a butcher's establishment is kept for supplying a portion of the company's workmen on the line with meat. The rancho, or station for the passengers, might as well be removed, however, a few hundred yards further back, the engine going on to get its supply of water at one of the tanks placed here, instead of the olfactory nerves of the passengers being exposed to an ordeal of no agreeable character. I believe the nuisance is much complained of and will soon be removed.

The next station, Canada de Gomez, is a very respectable brick-built one, well kept, where we found some excellent partridges just cooked, which soon disappeared amongst hungry passengers, who had not time to breakfast before leaving, and there were also other refreshments. About this and Tortugas station is some very good land, and numerous English estancias in the neighbourhood, which I am assured are in a thriving condition, the aspect of the country being also more cheerful. We saw the plough at work, and I believe a large quantity of corn will soon be grown in this district. Further on, about Leones station, the country becomes more monotonous, one dead sea of brown-looking grass, without cattle or any appearance of cultivation, and not a shrub or tree to be seen. We passed a long train of carts from Rosario, filled with merchandise for distant places; also troops of laden mules going in the same direction, as the facilities offered by the railway are not yet sufficient to do away with this cumbrous and expensive mode of transit. This, however, is only a question of time. As we approached Frayle Muerto station, trees began to appear, and we passed through quite a forest, which was very pleasant after the long stretch of land bare of shrub or tree. The station at Frayle Muerto is a substantial brick building, and will be very commodious when completed. We had plenty of time to get some dinner here, and being rather behind, it was dark when we reached the present terminus at Villa Nueva, where I was kindly received by the manager, Mr. Lloyd, who gave me a shake down for the night at his comfortable little cottage close to the station. There I found a nephew of Mr. Wheelright and Senor Don Gonzalez, late Minister of Finance, with his family, waiting to proceed to Cordova next morning. I was fortunate, too, in having for fellow-travellers on the line Senor Moneta, the Government engineer, and Senor Crisofuli, both proceeding to Cordova on business connected with the railway, so the journey passed very agreeably and was anything but fatiguing for the distance. There is ample room in the carriages, which also have the advantage of enabling the passengers to go from one portion to the other and conversing with acquaintances who may happen to be there. This is much better than being stuck in a close carriage without any chance of relief. Indeed, I think for all South American railways the American saloon carriages are the most suitable as well as the most economical.

I was up early next morning to see the train start at seven for Rosario, and diligences for Cordova, Rio Cuarto, and other places. The last was a most comical sight. The mode of conveyance has been frequently described by travellers, so I will not enlarge on the subject. The diligences remind me of the old French _malle poste_, only the gearing is all hide instead of rope, and they are drawn by six horses, all mounted by peons, with very long traces, each horse seemingly independent of the others. The poor brutes, mostly with sore backs, are first driven into a corral close to the diligence station, where they are lassoed one by one, a halter thrown over their necks, and then taken to be saddled. The diligence station is a very busy place at this time, several starting at the same time for Cordova and other distant places; there are also private carriages, and all goes to show how extensive the passenger traffic will be when the line is open to Cordova. The time occupied in this latter part of the route is so long that a large supply of vehicles is required, as well as horses, but the latter may be had almost for the catching; at all events their cost is very trifling. After seeing the start, I went over the railway station works, and found evident signs of considerable traffic, even with an unfinished line. A large space of ground adjoining the station was filled with bullock waggons, some discharging cargo into railway waggons, while carts conveyed merchandise brought up by train from Rosario to other bullock waggons at a short distance, as there was no space for them about the station, where a large commodious brick warehouse has been built and works on a large scale are in course of erection, which will greatly facilitate the traffic now carried on. In fact, all was bustle and traffic under difficulties. Amongst the produce brought down was wool in bales, dry hides, wheat, large bars of copper, fruit, and other articles, not even omitting fowls in large coops, which had been brought all the way from Cordova.

The day was very fine and sunny, and after breakfast I accompanied Mr. Lloyd on horseback to visit a large forest and lake two or three leagues distant from the station. Here the wood used for locomotives is cut. It is found to answer better than coal, and is of course much cheaper. We passed over the newly laid rails and earthworks intended for a continuation of the line, along which piles of cut wood, extending at least a quarter of a mile, were laid, as well as a large quantity of wooden sleepers of excellent quality, to be used, I believe, between this and Cordova. We then struck across the campo to the forest, soon after entering which we came upon one of the most picturesque lakes I remember to have seen. We rode along the margin, which is chiefly sand, seeing numbers of wild fowl and black-necked swans. The water was beautifully clear. There are numbers of otters here, and at the upper end are immense rushes, which are gathered for roofing the ranchos built for the company's peons. We then struck into the forest again, and with some difficulty worked our way through it, the lining of my coat being torn off, as I was hardly got up for such an expedition. The forest is partly the property of the railway and of one of the religious establishments at Cordova, and it is capable of supplying sleepers to make the line to that city, as well as to supply fuel for the locomotives for years to come. The railway has quite a little colony here cutting wood, which is conveyed to a small steam saw mill on the line, and dealt with most expeditiously there.

On our way home we visited the company's farm, where the plough was at work, turning up a rich loamy soil, and next year it is expected a good crop of wheat will be taken, besides potatoes, Indian corn, grass for the horses, &c. In short, it will soon become a very productive farm, being also completely fenced in so as to keep out cattle. The plough was being driven by a young Somersetshire man, who evidently understood his work.

At length we finished our tour of inspection of about twenty miles very much pleased and gratified with what I had seen, and much impressed with the important future that awaits the landed property of the company, in addition to the line becoming a great main trunk one across this part of South America. Seeing is believing, and if shareholders who are sceptical as to the future could take a trip out here to satisfy themselves, they would be quite re-assured on this point. Many doubts have been thrown upon the enterprise, which I have never entertained, from my previous knowledge of the country, and my confidence is much increased by a personal inspection of the line itself and the traffic which evidently exists ready to come on the metals when proper provision is made for it. The company are about laying down the telegraph wires, which will be a great advantage and prevent accidents, besides establishing a valuable means of communication and saving much time. Indeed, no line can be efficient without it. I return to Rosario to-morrow, having only a few days to spare before embarking for England; otherwise I should have gone on to Cordova and spent some time in this interesting region, whose only want is population to render it one of the most productive of the globe.

When I made a hasty visit to Rosario in 1853 I formed a very strong opinion of its future importance from the position it occupied in connection with the river navigation and the traffic of the Western provinces; but the establishment of the Central Argentine Railway has immensely added to the other advantages of Rosario, and accounts for the great increase that has recently taken place in building and population. Thus far, however, the benefit is in a great measure prospective, the railway being still incomplete. Nevertheless, there can be little doubt that the sanguine views of speculators on the future will be realised so soon as the line is finished.

It is only in traversing the streets that one becomes aware of the great extent of the town, which is built in squares after the usual manner in this country. Several commercial establishments, some banks, and many really good shops now exist, and there is difficulty, I am informed, in finding house room for the numerous settlers in the town. I was surprised to find so large a number of cafés crowded at night by all classes, and there is also a little theatre, where, in the absence of regular performances, masked balls are frequently held. These are not of the most edifying description, but the people will amuse themselves in some way, and better this than political conspiracies, of which Rosario has often been the scene.

As I have before said the port presents quite a busy appearance; but there are no facilities in the way of wharves and landing places, which would be a vast convenience to traffic, as everything has now to be done by boats. Some gas works are in course of erection, on the river side, but owing to bad foundations or want of care the chimney fell down and only the skeleton walls appear. It will be a great blessing to the town and suburbs when they are lighted with gas, as on dark nights perambulation is difficult even with the aid of the miserable oil lamps at present in use. There is an American Missionary Chapel near the railway station, and recently the nucleus of an English Protestant Congregation has been formed under the auspices of the Rev. Mr. Combe, appointed by the South American Missionary Society. Service is just now performed in a room, but efforts are being made to build a chapel, as the number of English residents continues to increase. Mr. Combe also holds service at Frayle Muerto, where some sixty Englishmen reside on farms within a few leagues of each other.

I had occasion to visit the Protestant burial ground at Rosario to attend the funeral of a young Englishman who died under melancholy circumstances, and was sorry to notice that it presented a very forlorn aspect and was situated in a very inconvenient locality. Many interments took place here during the cholera, which was very fatal to foreigners as well as to the natives, who were decimated, and the works of the railway were also retarded by this terrible scourge.