Chapter III: Part 3

It is not my intention to comment further on the errors that have been made in the construction of this railway. No doubt obstacles had to be met at every step; nor can shareholders be supposed to know much about engineering details of this kind. They subscribe their money on the faith of a Government guarantee, believing in the estimates, and that of course the line will, under any circumstances, pay its working expenses. The late Mr. Brunel used to repudiate the existence of engineering difficulties. It was a mere question of money; but I think had he surveyed the intended line of the San Paulo Railway he would have said both these points were involved, the result being that the original estimates are greatly exceeded, and the works still require a considerable outlay before they can be permanently relied on. The thing certainly appears incredible, if it were not the fact, that to work a line consisting almost entirely of short curves and heavy gradients, the directors should have sent out rigid locomotives suited to a first-class English railway, without even bogie frames attached, causing great wear and tear to both engines and rails. I quite believe that with suitable locomotives the line may be safely and properly worked, and it seems exactly a case in point for such engines as Fairlie's. The question as to maintenance of way must always be a very important one; whether in such a mountainous country, subject at seasons to heavy rains and flooded rivers, and with a treacherous soil, the nature of the works is such as can be relied on, for unless this is the case, as the public journals of San Paulo justly observe, the real utility of the railway is destroyed. Coffee growers and cotton planters have been looking to it as a sure and certain means of getting their produce down to Santos, and unless this can be depended on they will have to resort to the old, cumbrous, and expensive mode of carrying it upwards of one hundred miles on the backs of mules as heretofore. It is a momentous question for this province whether or not they can depend on railway conveyance, which I think may fairly be looked for when the line becomes consolidated, but both shareholders and the Government must be prepared to make sacrifices of no common kind before this end is finally attained. That the officials and managers of the line in Brazil are doing all they can is very certain, and it is for the company or the shareholders to provide them with everything required to ensure the permanent success of the company. They entered into a solemn contract with the Brazilian Government and the Provincial Government here, which it is their duty to fulfil, no matter at what sacrifice, and the sooner the shareholders look their position in the face the better, instead of being guided entirely by directors, who could only appreciate their position if they came out in a body and personally inspected the line. One thing is very certain, that if it had not been for the great liberality of the Baron de Mauá in coming to the rescue of the concern, the works might never have been completed or the line opened.

THE CITY OF SAN PAULO.

If it appears a long time in reaching here after passing the wonders of the Serra, I was not disappointed either in the first peep at the city or by a more intimate acquaintance with it. One cannot help marvelling how the adventurous handful of men who originally penetrated the forests and founded these cities in South America had the courage and perseverance to do so; but I believe they availed, in many cases, of the Indian tracks, and doubtless of Indian assistance occasionally. The city has rather an imposing aspect as you wind round it to the station, being built on a ridge of high ground which overlooks the River Tieté—a stream rising in the neighbouring hills, and after traversing nearly the whole of the province, eventually finds its way to the Parana and the Paraguay. At the railway station sundry omnibuses and carriages were waiting to receive the passengers. We drove to the Hotel d'Italia, where a friend had taken rooms for us, and found ourselves tolerably comfortable in a large house rather the worse for wear, and, like most things in this country, allowed to get out of repair. During the construction of the railway it was the head-quarters of the engineering staff.

The first thing we did next morning was to pay our respects to the President of the Province, who received us very graciously. He is a man of a very expressive, benevolent countenance, and I believe he administers the affairs of the province in a most satisfactory manner—not the easiest of tasks in such troublous times as the present.

A ramble over the city impresses one favourably: good wide streets, paved with a material resembling macadam. It is obtained from one of the neighbouring hills, and forms a capital road. The sides are well made of large flags, much superior to those of Rio de Janeiro, although the pavement there is admirable. There are several fine churches, an extensive new public market, and, as a rule, the houses are well and substantially built. The shops are also numerous and well appointed with all the requisites for convenience and comfort suited to a city of 20,000 to 25,000 inhabitants. There are several national colleges here, with a number of young students, who help to enliven the place. The Province of San Paulo has always held a good position, from the enterprise and spirit of the people, the latter owing in some measure to the cool climate, which even now occasionally renders woollen clothing and blankets at night desirable, and a few months hence it will be positively cold, with ice in the morning. Previously to and since our arrival it has been raining so much that a vast tract of land bordering the Tieté is overflowed, and travelling must be very bad. We took a drive to the church of Nossa Senhora de Penha, a few miles distant, on elevated ground, from whence a good view of the city and surrounding country is obtained; but unfortunately rain came on, and we had only to make the best of our way home, the carriages nearly sticking fast in a quagmire. Otherwise the road is a pretty good one.

I may here allude to the kind hospitality of Captain and Mrs. Burton, which rendered our visit an exceedingly agreeable one. On the occasion of this visit to Nossa Senhora de Penha, a curious incident occurred. On our way out Mrs. Burton took a fancy to some geese which were quietly feeding by the roadside, and she determined to make a purchase of them on our way back, although it was raining heavily. After some bargaining the geese were bought, their legs were tied, and each of us took charge of one or more. They were quiet enough until we reached the city, where the people began to pelt us with wax water balls, as it was the Intrudo time, when such pastime is still carried on to a great extent in an old fashioned place like San Paulo. The geese became alarmed, struggled to release themselves, and after some difficulty and much amusement we got them safely disposed of in the yard attached to the Consulate. Geese are very plentiful in Brazil, but there is a prejudice against them amongst the natives as food, from an idea that they eat snakes and other vermin, but a few weeks good domestic feeding is calculated to do away with any objection of this sort, as we had occasion to find in the excellent quality of these very geese when we afterwards dined at the Consulate.

A ridge of mountains forms a background to the north-west of San Paulo, in some of which are gold mines that have been long abandoned, nor is the mineral wealth of the province at all developed. The railway may bring with it new enterprise of this kind, but it will be slow work.

I went over the San Bento Convent, where only one priest appears to reside in an enormous building, a portion of which has lately been fitted up with considerable taste. The church is also kept in good order, but it seems absurd for only one man to occupy such a building. The wealth of religious orders in Brazil is by no means insignificant, and it would be to the advantage of the country and of the people if this was made available for national purposes. Religion would be better appreciated, and the State would be able to form colonies in some of the richest lands of the Empire, which naturally enough fell into the hands of religious bodies.

It is said that the Tropic of Capricorn passes close to the city of San Paulo, but of course the exact spot cannot be defined. There is plenty of fruit and vegetables to be had, grapes are abundant and very cheap, good milk and fresh butter are easily obtainable, the cow going round to the houses in the morning with a bell attached to her, and generally the calf following. Indeed, a great many of the comforts and conveniences of life are to be found here which do not exist in other Brazilian towns, whilst the climate is infinitely superior. For many months of the year the thermometer ranges about 60°, and at times goes down to 40°; on the other hand it is sometimes very hot, but of short duration. This morning I saw a black boy in the street engaged in the occupation of shoeblack, with his little box and brushes very much after the London style. In fact there is a more general inclination to work when it is not so intensely hot. There goes the railway whistle, the train starting for Santos, and it will return about 3 p.m., bringing the passengers by steamer from Rio, which left there yesterday. There are two fast steamers a week between Rio and Santos, so the communication is well kept up.

The number of old fashioned waggons or carts on two solid wooden wheels, drawn by teams of oxen according to the weight carried, and the constant passage of them, and of mules and horses, the former with tinkling bells, all laden with country produce, indicate the nature of the traffic which existed prior to the opening of the railway, rendering the streets of the city a busy scene. The railway being closed between this and Jundiahy no doubt increases this traffic for a time, but it must always exist to a greater or a less degree, as everything for the consumption of the city has to be brought into it by these means. The bulk of the through traffic of coffee and cotton must, however, inevitably find its way on to the rails and be taken down the Serra, as it is impossible mules can compete with a railway for so great a distance. The troops of mules, horses, and carts assemble at shops or warehouses in streets where their business is carried on, their produce discharged, and a certain portion of the animals loaded back to their respective destinations. Hence the perpetual tinkling of bells and creaking of wheels; at the same time a number of carriages and tilburys are constantly in motion, conveying passengers about the city or outskirts, causing a degree of activity one would otherwise hardly expect to find.

Yesterday, Sunday, being the first Sunday in Lent, there was a grand procession, consisting of a large number of figures of saints, carried on men's shoulders, after the old style of chairing an M.P. at home. Sundry children were dressed up as angels, and there were also a military band and some few soldiers; for, as the latter have been drained by the war, only a sufficient number remain to keep guard, &c. The figures are as large as life. They were collected together at the church of San Francisco, a large and rather showy building, and at five o'clock the procession started, amidst discharging of rockets, ringing of bells, and other demonstrations. It passed the street in front of the hotel, and, being a tolerably long one, it had rather an imposing appearance. After traversing the principal streets of the city, it came back by a side one, which also skirted the hotel. A thunder storm had been gathering, and broke over the city just as the procession was reaching the church from whence it started. An indescribable scene of confusion ensued. The pace was quickened, angels were lifted on the shoulders of blacks, the carriers of saints hurried along as fast as the weight permitted—in fact, it was a race with the saints—each trying to pass the other, to the imminent danger of an upset. The only part of the procession which retained a show of decorum was that in charge of the Host, where the high priest walked under a canopy with a number of other priests, accompanied by attendants, swinging censers; and as the Host passed, all the spectators knelt down. Fortunately the rain kept off until the greater part reached the square, and the saints escaped a terrible wetting, as it came down in torrents, with loud peals of thunder and lightning, such as I have rarely met with.

The storm continued in this way for several hours, and curiously enough in the midst of it came a telegram from the Government of Rio de Janeiro, announcing that the iron-clad fleet had succeeded in passing the fortress of Humaita, while a division of Brazilian troops had also taken a redoubt, &c., particulars of which will doubtless shortly reach England. Excitement was at its height, and spite of the thunder, lightning, and rain, houses began to light up, rockets were flying about, and later on, a band of music, with many followers, paraded the streets, playing and shouting vivas, with other joyous demonstrations quite edifying under such an accumulation of atmospheric difficulties. On Monday evening the city was entirely illuminated with candles, lamps, and Chinese lanterns, the latter very pretty, and the effect altogether striking. A full military band paraded the streets, followed by crowds of people; indeed, nearly the whole of the population, male and female, turned out and paraded the streets to a late hour, the wonder being where they all came from. The demonstration continued for three days, or rather nights, but not on so extensive a scale, nor was the firing of rockets so profuse. The news from the seat of war has, therefore, created quite a sensation, the Paulistos being somewhat a martial people, and proud of the exploits of their countrymen before Humaita, though further advices are needed before the war can be considered at an end. A drawback accompanied the war news, namely, the cruel assassination of General Flores at Monte Video, and the sanguinary proceedings that followed on the occasion.

I may mention having attended a sitting of the Provincial Assembly, in a very pokey, close room attached to the palace, with a miserably low gallery at each end for the public. The proceedings, however, were orderly and dignified, and good speeches were made, one by Senhor Leite Moraes, a tall, handsome man, who appears likely to distinguish himself as an orator. The subject under discussion was a complaint against the conduct of the Roman Catholic priests. There are thirty-six members of the Provincial Chambers, who annually attend for a period of two months, and some of them come from considerable distances at much personal inconvenience to themselves. I believe they are to have a larger and better place for conducting their business, which is certainly very desirable. I also visited, in company with Captain Burton, English Consul, one of the seminaries or schools, presided over by French monks, who received us with attention, showed us over the extensive building and well laid-out gardens, and entertained us afterwards with some good English beer. The college, to which a good sized garden is attached, contains accommodation for about one hundred youths, who come here for their education, and remain several months, being comfortably lodged, and, I believe, well cared for.

This is only one of the many similar establishments in San Paulo, which, in this respect, answers to our Cambridge or Oxford. The view from the college is very extensive and picturesque—the city on one side, the large plain in which the city stands, with mountains in the distance, and close to the railway station. We heard the locomotive whistle, and saw the steam a long way off, reaching the station in time to see the train come in with 115 passengers, quite a large number, it being about the period of the students returning. It also brought a company of performers from one of the Rio de Janeiro theatres, who are going to afford the inhabitants a month's display of their artistic skill, so that in all respects the city will be very lively during the season of Lent, one of the eccentricities connected with the Roman Catholic religion. I went to the public gardens, which are at only a little distance from the railway station, and cover a large space of ground. They are in tolerable order, with flower beds and a piece of water in the centre. A considerable sum of money must have been originally expended on them, but not keeping things up is one of the major defects of the system in this country.

I thought processions were over for the present, but last evening there was one of some magnitude, conveying a saint from one church to another, and spite of wet streets after the heavy rain, a large number of people turned out to witness and follow the participants in the ceremony. To-day, however, being Friday, the 6th of March, was set apart for a special occasion—a meeting, not a race of saints; and, for a wonder, the day and night have been remarkably fine, a beautiful bright moon now shining after the great bustle is over and the saints gone to rest, though the illuminated altars in various parts of the city are still glittering in all their tinsel, with numerous worshippers, after depositing in a plate their offerings in the shape of “dumps,” a slang phrase for copper coins. Preparatory symptoms have been going on for some days at a sort of large closet, or “hole in the wall” of the house opposite, belonging to an old nobleman, whose wife departed this life to-day. The folding doors had been opened and a large blue cloth thrown over the sanctuary from a balcony above, but still it was easy to see that something unusual was in progress; and to-day, about the time of the procession, the doors opened, and the curtain was withdrawn, revealing a very pretty altar, with a cross and small figures of saints at the top, the back parts and sides being covered with gold and silver tinsel, and groups or garlands of artificial flowers tastefully arranged, the whole lighted up by an immense number of candles, many of them in silver candlesticks, provided or lent for the occasion by devotees. There were about a dozen or more of these old cupboard altars decked out, each apparently vying for supremacy in effect. But I am forgetting the procession itself, which began to form at five o'clock, accompanied by the usual paraphernalia—a number of young girls dressed up as angels, bands of music, soldiers with fixed bayonets, the President of the Province, and all the dignitaries, with the high priest under a canopy and his attendants as before, whilst in front and behind walked the multitude. The meeting of the saints took place close to the hotel, where a halt was made, and a stout ecclesiastic (the bishop's secretary, I believe), for whom a very large pulpit had been temporarily erected at the corner of four streets, addressed a very energetic discourse to the multitude, until his voice began to get rather squeaky, nor could very much be made of what he said beyond that his listeners were a very bad lot, and required all the intervention of the saints before them to save them from perdition. The sermon ended, some music and singing took place before the altar opposite to our hotel, after which the procession went on, passing all the street altars, and this part of the ceremony ended when the saints were fairly housed. For hours, however, before the bright gaudy altars, and the still brighter moon, the whole population of the place passed in review, making their reverence and depositing their “dumps” or offertories.

Whether or not these ceremonies are conducive to the maintenance of the Roman Catholic Religion I cannot pretend to say, but certainly they are preserved here in all their original stage effect (for it can be called nothing else) just as I first recollect them in Brazil. I understand that in other parts of the Empire they have much fallen off. San Paulo has been more or less isolated, and it is only since the opening of the railway that the foreign element has been introduced. Formerly a voyage to Rio de Janeiro was quite an undertaking; now, by rail and steam, it is an affair of two days. One thing is very clear, that processions and religious observances of this kind are very popular here. It is quite astounding to see the number of people filling the streets, mostly dressed in their best garments, but to-day the ladies wore chiefly black. On the other hand, the black women—the “swells,” as they are called—prefer bright colours, and generally in good taste—white and coloured muslin, with gay shawls thrown over their ample figures, many of them very tall, fine looking women. Considering the dull, monotonous life here, these religious festivals are unquestionably a great relief to the female portion of the population, with whatever motive they may attend them; nor can one help being struck with their apparent earnestness of worship to dumb idols, and the constant stream of “dumps” poured into the plates by high and low, rich and poor, the latter bestowing their mite freely. A parade over the city on such occasions in their best attire, and the opportunity for showing off, has no doubt some influence, but this may be combined with religious feeling, according to their interpretation of it. Amongst the numerous votaries present I may mention the hardy, bronzed, country race, men who travel over the country with mules, leading the life of gipsies, and not unlike them, wrapped in a kind of coloured “poncho,” similar to that worn in the River Plate. They almost live in the saddle, and are a very fine class of men—true Paulistos. But I see they are putting out the lights at the altar opposite, so it is time to extinguish mine and go to bed, as the clock is just striking midnight. To-morrow the folding-doors will be closed, and appear as the ordinary appendages of the house, leaving “not a wreck behind,” except a few leaves of dead flowers scattered about the streets.

After a night's rest, I find that things have assumed their usual quiet course, enlivened only by the continued favourable news from the seat of war, which keeps the church bells going, rockets firing, and bands of music parading the streets at night. These public demonstrations have been of the most lively kind, assisted by a bright moon, without a cloud in the sky; indeed you can see to read by its rays. Moonlight nights are agreeable in any country, but in these tropical countries they seem to have an influence both on body and mind, refreshing the physique and raising the spirits. The atmosphere at this elevated spot is so cool at night that, however hot the day, you sleep in comparative comfort, and awake to enjoy the cool breeze of the early morning.

I took a ride in company with Mrs. Burton in the direction of what is called the Luz, past the railway station, where are numerous country houses, and a handsome bridge over the Tieté, after which the road goes through low ground, now entirely flooded, forming a swamp of many miles in extent. A couple of miles further on brings you to a rather sharp hill, on which is a small, rough-looking chapel, never finished, where people come on a kind of pilgrimage, or to enjoy the beautiful view from it. Looking back, the city of San Paulo is seen to much advantage, and to the left, some thirty-five miles distant, appear the spurs of the mountains, past which the railway runs to Santos. In the opposite direction, and apparently much nearer than they are, you see the chain of hills through which the railway proceeds to Jundiahy, the celebrated Jaraguay (or gold mountain) to the left of them, standing out very boldly in the light of the setting sun. Altogether it is considered one of the prettiest short rides about the place, there being a great variety of them. The site of the chapel also enjoys the reputation of being in the exact line of the tropic of Capricorn, so that San Paulo is just outside it. We reined up a short time to enjoy the prospect and then cantered back for dinner.

A perusal of accounts from England by the last mail, and of those from the River Plate, form a very agreeable diversion to the otherwise monotonous life one has to lead here, although my visit has been an exception to the rule in this respect from the occurrences detailed in previous pages. It is impossible to read the official and private communications from the River without feeling deeply grieved at the tragic scenes that have lately been acted there. The correspondent of the _Jornal do Commercio_ at Monte Video gives a very graphic account of the assassination of poor General Flores and the events arising out of it; and I incline to believe that, however deplorable, they nipped in the bud a very formidable conspiracy, which, had it been successful, would have deluged Uruguay with blood for a long time, and might otherwise have complicated the position of things, as there can be little doubt the first act of the Blanco party would have been to do away with the Triple Alliance, so far as Monte Video is concerned, and to institute a renewal of their insulting conduct towards Brazil. The changed aspect of the war, with a prospect of its speedy termination, will strengthen the hands of the Colorados, and, it is to be hoped, maintain peace and order in the little Republic. The writer already mentioned goes into very minute details of the passage of Humaita by the Brazilian ironclads; and there is quite a tinge of romance attached to their performances, which certainly reflect the highest credit on the gallantry of the commanders and crews; nor less so the victory obtained by the Marquis de Caxias, the combined effects of which must lead to the occupation of Asuncion and to the ultimate surrender or destruction of Lopez himself. That his resistance has been wonderfully stubborn no one can deny; still less the pertinacity which has distinguished the conduct of the allies under difficulties pronounced by some first-rate military authorities to be insurmountable.

I have not yet referred to the theatrical performances now going on here, with a company from one of the Rio theatres, which draws crowded houses in a building almost as large as Covent Garden. It is in a very improvised state, but sufficiently got up to answer the purpose; and in a climate like this external appearances are not much thought of provided there is enough ventilation, which is certainly the case in the San Paulo Theatre. A stranger cannot help feeling surprised on entering to see so large a place, having three tiers of boxes, filled chiefly by well-dressed ladies, and a gallery for what we term the “gods,” the gentlemen being in the pit, which holds fully 500 people and was quite crowded. Each one has what we call a stall, but here cane seats, with backs, divided by arms, so that you are very comfortably seated. The large attendance is explained by the circumstance of the city being dependent on casual performances, and of course everybody is anxious to take advantage of the opportunity. There is no regular company attached to the theatre, but the attendance, appearance, and dress of the ladies of San Paulo on these occasions will compare favourably with what is presented in any city of South America. As to the performance, it is usually a compilation from some French rubbishy novel; but the acting is tolerably good, and the audience attentive, sitting patiently for the five or six hours commonly occupied by the piece—a very great objection.

To-day—March 16—is the first of term at the College, where a strong muster of students took place at an early hour of the morning, and I believe that some of the ceremonials that occur on such occasions at Oxford and Cambridge also prevail here. The presence of nearly a thousand students gives a tone of animation to the old city, and is a set-off to the constant creaking of waggon wheels and the tinkling of bells of mules, which indicate its commercial character. Brazil is chiefly indebted to this city for a swarm of lawyers, many of whom have been, and continue to be, distinguished men, but it would be far better for the country if many of them were brought up to agricultural or commercial pursuits.

In the seaport towns the Portuguese continue to act as the chief traders, but in the interior the latter are mostly Brazilians. There is now the army, the navy, and the engineering pursuits open to the youth of Brazil, and I have no doubt they will by degrees take up positions more beneficial to their country than that of mere disputants, or lawyers, which characters are sadly too numerous.

Took an early ride to the north of San Paulo on the 17th, from whence there was a fine view of an extensive valley, where the mist was rising and floating away to the distant hills on the other side. We met troops of mules coming in with their drivers in their picturesque coloured ponchos, and also a group of women approaching the city. Skirting a wood to the left, through some pretty looking scenery, we came upon the new Santos road, made a few years back at great expense; and a most admirable road it is, but, it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a most admirable road it is, but it appears, not much used since the railway was opened, passing through a poor, uncultivated country. If the large amount expended on this road had been laid out at the terminus of the line at Jundiahy, towards the coffee producing districts, it might have been of much greater importance to the Province. Odd enough, it was made in opposition to the railway, although it must have been evident that the latter would take a large portion of the traffic, and that that by mules from San Paulo to Santos would be greatly reduced. The projectors, who were chiefly large coffee growers of the Province, might have supposed a good road to Santos would keep a check on the railway as to charges of transit, and be used in case of any partial stoppage of the railway; but unfortunately the heavy rains which shut up the latter for a time also injured the common road, rendering it impassable in places.

Before leaving the City of San Paulo, where I have spent several pleasant weeks, I went over what is called the House of Correction, but is in fact a criminal reformatory for the Province and admirably managed. The building is in a fine open space near the railway station, enclosed on a large square plot of ground, surrounded by high walls, inside which are gardens beautifully laid out, and kept in order by the inmates. The main portion of the building converges into a central point by means of arched roofs, lighted from the top, the cells abutting on the corridors which lead thereto. Here there is also a circular raised stone altar, on which mass is performed, and heard in all the cells through an open iron grating with which each is provided. The workshops are apart, leading off the garden, and consist of various trades suited to the acquirements of the criminals; there being also a school, where they are taught to read and write. They come to these workshops from the main building in groups, each individual having a mark or number to distinguish him by, and they are accompanied by a guard. The workshops have doors with open gratings, but secured by a strong lock and key, a sentinel doing duty during the time the men are occupied at labour, with a time master seated in a kind of elevated pulpit to see that the work allotted to every individual be properly done. In approaching or leaving the workshops the men all walk with folded arms, and the whole being on the silent system of punishment, no one is allowed to speak, except, I conclude, when some question has to be asked through the warder or other officer of the establishment, the discipline of which is admirably maintained. The inmates are about 120 in number, most of them convicted of serious crimes; they have here a dejected look, but I believe, on the whole, the system is found to be a very efficacious one, and does really lead to reformation of character. No female criminals are admitted, but I understand a ward is to be built for them. We were conducted over the establishment by the Governor, a retired colonel in the army, accompanied by Senhor Leite Moraes, a distinguished member of the Provincial Assembly. Much attention was shown us, and some refreshment was provided for us in the Governor's room. Near to the reformatory, abutting on the railway station, are the public gardens of San Paulo, on which a good deal of money has been spent. They are well laid-out, but not kept in order, one of the chronic defects of these kind of places in South America generally.

SAN PAULO TO SANTOS AND RIO DE JANEIRO.

We finally left San Paulo after a very agreeable visit, on the 25th of March, by the 9.30 train for Santos, with a tolerable number of passengers, and some friends who kindly accompanied us on our journey. Between San Paulo and San Bernardo station, a distance of about ten miles, the road is tolerably level, and the country more or less open, though uncultivated save in small plots. At this station I got upon the engine with Mr. Fox, and came upon sharp curves and many cuttings until we reached Rio Grande Station, after which, for a distance of seven miles, the works are very heavy, some of the inclines being one in fifty and one in sixty. Nothing near but dense forests, without a human habitation to be seen. Approaching the top of the Serra, it appeared completely shut in by the range of mountains in front of us, the road winding and twisting till we suddenly reached the small platform, whence the descent of the mountain begins, and a glorious prospect opens out of the valley below, with the sea in the distance; yet not without a vague feeling of anxiety as to the novel position in which we find ourselves placed. I was allowed to ride on the break again, and it is certainly a wonderful sight, whilst being slowly let down the lifts which I have before described. The day was light and the atmosphere clear, the light and shade on the dense mass of foliage with which the mountains are clothed appearing to great advantage, like a huge carpet spread over the face of nature. It is decidedly worth a visit from Europe to go over the railway, and few can help wondering how it was ever made, under what must have appeared almost insurmountable difficulties in such a country and such a climate; the pioneers obliged to live in the forests and often short of the necessaries of life. Without traversing the line it is impossible to form any idea of the magnitude of the undertaking, or how the boilers and machinery for the stationary engines were dragged up the mountains, almost without a track, much less a road, for a total height of 2,600 feet above the level of the sea. The Paulistos ought to be proud of their railway, and Englishmen of the skill and endurance of their countrymen in making it; at the same time, it cannot be denied that many errors of construction have been committed, and even at the present moment the working power of the line is crippled for want of locomotives, besides which those on the metals are not adapted to it, as I have previously explained. Red-tapery and official conceit have produced the same result here as in other places, to give way eventually to a practical common sense view of things; not without entailing, however, losses upon the unfortunate shareholders. The line being again open throughout, a considerable arrear of traffic is waiting to come down from Jundiahy, which will severely tax the insufficient rolling stock and locomotive power at the disposal of the manager; but at all events it is satisfactory to know that the traffic is likely to be a steady one, with a considerable future prospect when once its requirements are fairly met by the company.

We reached the foot of the Serra before noon, and at one o'clock we were at Santos station, the whole distance from San Paulo to Santos being 48⅞ miles; rather a long time on the way, but the Serra itself takes an hour, and there are several stoppages at the stations. Some time is also occupied in waiting at the foot of the Serra for the second portion of the train (it is divided into three carriages each lift) to come down and join before proceeding forward. This process of course takes place both ways. Contrast this system, however, with that of pack mules, and what an immense stride does it represent in the means of transit and communication.

Santos was cooler than when we went there before, and the day was fine and bright. The steamer did not sail until four o'clock, so we strolled about and got some dinner. The departure was punctual, and sailing down the river to the bar the surrounding scenery, tinged by the glowing afternoon sun, gave everything a very cheerful, though grandly picturesque aspect. The friends who had kindly accompanied us from San Paulo here left us in a boat, to land at the bar, which is a favourite watering place, and where many nice cottages are built. We steamed on, passed the small fort, and were soon in the open Atlantic, the boat dancing about more than was agreeable to some of the passengers, who soon disappeared below. The Santa Maria is a powerful boat, steaming her twelve knots an hour, with very good accommodation; but the wind and sea being against us, we did not get into Rio harbour before noon the next day, taking 20 hours for a distance of about 180 miles.

TRIP TO JUIZ DE FORA.—THE DOM PEDRO SEGUNDO RAILWAY.

To estimate the resources of a country with such an enormous extent of territory as Brazil by the quantity of cotton, sugar, coffee, or other products she actually exports, or by the extent of the towns and cities on her seaboard, would be to form a very inadequate idea of what those resources are capable of becoming by means of imported labour, the extension of railways, and other transport facilities in the shape of good roads. Even with the present limited population, railways are calculated to swell enormously the amount of Brazilian productions, as they naturally lead to the opening out of other modes of intercommunication, and draw towards them subsidiary streams of traffic, which have hitherto been unable to find a vent. It is only when a railway penetrates the primeval forests, and goes into the heart of a country, that an adequate idea can be formed of what it is capable of being made, or that the state of existing cultivation can be seen under all the drawbacks arising from the want of labour, added to the difficult and expensive means of transport. This has been very clearly shown in the case of the San Paulo Railway, which, with the proposed extension to Campinas, will reach at once the great producing districts, and enable the cultivators of them to make their calculations to a nicety as to the cost of laying down their coffee or cotton at the port of Santos, and whether or not it can repay them to extend their production with the means at present under their command. The result will doubtless be a very large addition to the exports from Santos.

But to return to the Dom Pedro II. Railway. On the day previous to my leaving Rio, I had made the acquaintance, through the introduction of a friend at home, of Dr. Gunning, who, I found to my surprise, lived some fifty miles up the line, and he very kindly invited me to remain the night with them, instead of going on direct to Entre Rios. Accordingly at noon the next day, (the 4th April), we started by a train that only runs at that hour on Saturday, the ordinary ones being at 5 a.m., which involves getting up in the middle of the night to those who are any distance from the station. The train was a very full one, and I had to be content with a seat on my own portmanteau at the beginning of my journey, the carriage being open, and built in the American style, with sofas and chairs round the sides. The station is large and commodious, with plenty of sheds and warehouses for receiving produce. The pace was pretty good; the train passing the suburbs of the city, then the abatoirs, where cattle are slaughtered, with hundreds of the large black vultures hovering about; afterwards going through the Emperor's grounds and not far from his palace. Many fine country houses are near the line, which become fewer in number until we reach the first station called Sapepomba, at a short distance from which is a fine estate belonging; to the Baron de Mauá, whose name is a household word in Brazil. This estate is worked by an American, who married an adopted daughter of the Baron, and has now a very large tract of sugar cane under cultivation. It presents in other respects all the evidence of good management. The public road runs close to the station. We proceed through lowlands, with cattle grazing on some of them, until we reached the station of Machabamba, in the neighbourhood of which the Baron de Bomfim has also a large sugar estate as well as ground for grazing cattle. At this station, as at most others, were so-called hotels, where eating and drinking is carried on much after the fashion in other countries, and a number of passengers got out apparently to spend the Sunday in the country.

After traversing some fine open country, bounded by mountains on all sides, we crossed what is called the dismal swamp, where so many people lost their lives during the construction of the line; this part of the line reminded one of the swamps about which so much has been written in connection with the Panama Railway. The next station we came to was that of Belem, an important place at the foot of the great mountain rise. I may perhaps observe that many plots of land, after we left the suburbs of Rio, were cultivated with mandioca, the great staple article of food in this country, and doubtless much of what is now a waste will soon be brought into requisition for the production of this commodity. At Belem there was a good display of refreshment, substantial and light creature comforts evidently being appreciated by the Brazilians; oranges, figs, and sweets of various kinds were brought also to the carriage doors. Here we exchanged the ordinary English locomotive for one of the powerful American description, calculated to mount the hills, which we began to ascend immediately after leaving Belem station, and here commences the really interesting feature of the works. The American “horse,” as it is termed, began snorting, the whistle making a frightfully loud noise,—a sort of steam gong, which can be heard at a very great distance. The train now twists and turns round the sharp curves, the scenery becomes grand and imposing as we go up, and at one point, after proceeding eight or ten miles through a succession of tunnels and embankments, a stone could be thrown across the ridge to the place we left. The views of the valleys, with the spurs of the hills planted with coffee and Indian corn, are very pretty, and one is called Paraiso, or paradise, though I think that title might be much more appropriately applied to the valley opposite Dr. Gunning's house, which is called the Valley of Monkeys, I suppose because many exist in the woods there. The elevation attained on reaching Dr. Gunning's station was upwards of 1,300 feet, in about 2½ hours from Rio, and here I was persuaded to rest over Sunday, resuming my journey by rail on Monday morning.

Dr. Gunning's little colony, for it quite amounts to that, took me quite by surprise, as I was utterly ignorant of its existence. As I said before, the valley which it overlooks might justly be termed that of Paraiso, instead of the other we passed in ascending the mountains. It takes a range of some 20 to 30 miles, with a series of hills or spurs rising from it, backed by the mountains which tower over Rio de Janeiro. The house is built on the foreground, with an extensive balcony in front, where you sit in a rocking chair in a state of quiet ecstacy and wonder how such an enchanting spot can be so little known in a great city comparatively so near to it. From the balcony you can see the trains moving upwards, popping now and again into the numerous tunnels, there being no less than thirteen between the house and the foot of the mountain and sixteen or seventeen over the whole line. The Doctor has constructed two or three neat cottages on his land, and there is also within hail a charming one erected by Mr. Gotto when he was out here as Engineer of the Rio Improvements Company. It is situated at a point which also commands a fine view of the noble valley, and is at present occupied by an American merchant. The Doctor is about to build other cottages on his land, and is laying out the site for a hotel, which ought to be very attractive to Rio residents in search of fresh air and renovated health. It is difficult to conceive a more lovely situation, or one surrounded by more attractive scenery. Before dinner we took a walk in the fine shady woods below the house, and at night enjoyed the effect of a splendid moon from a balcony where the scene in Romeo and Julliet might be admirably enacted, a place of all others adapted for the interchange of “lovers' vows.” We were, however, a very sober-minded, but pleasant party, and enjoyed ourselves with “sweethearts and wives” over a glass of toddy. On Sunday morning I rose early to look at one of the greatest natural curiosities it is possible to conceive. A light vapoury mist, “white as the driven snow,” covered the entire valley; with here and there the tops of hills appearing like islands in a sea; indeed, one could hardly believe that what one saw was simply mist, and not something more tangible and substantial. This gradually disappeared as the sun topped the heights, and then all became bright and verdant as on the previous day. Residents in the valley feel wrapt in a kind of shroud whilst the mist is over them, but no evil effects appear to result from it. An American missionary, Mr. Blackford, who was for some time stationed at the city of San Paulo, and was, with his wife, a guest of Dr. Gunning, read a portion of the Church Service in Portuguese and preached a sermon in the same language to the household and a number of people employed about the place, after which we wandered about, dined, and enjoyed another quiet moonlight evening looking over the happy valley. There is quite a little society of Americans residing about here, which renders it anything but a solitude.

I left this hospitable retreat on Monday, by the train which passes at 8 a.m., and continued to find a series of wonderful curves and tunnels until we reached the station of Barra, where a good comfortable breakfast was waiting for such passengers as chose to avail of it.

I was joined by the son of Mr. Ellison, head engineer of the line, who is making a branch near Disengano station, in the direction of San Paulo, with which it is eventually intended to connect this province. He made himself very agreeable, and gave me much valuable information.

I should not omit to allude to the really beautiful scenery passed through between Entre Rios and Barra, where the passengers breakfasted. I walked to look at a very handsome bridge erected over the River Parahyba, which becomes here a considerable stream, running the whole distance to Entre Rios, where it meets the Parahybuna, which comes down from Minas Geraes, the latter emptying itself into the sea at San Joao de Barra, after passing the important town of Campos.

The railway, which is here 122 miles in length from Rio de Janeiro, is to be extended to another point on the Parahyba called Porto da Cunha, making a total distance of about 160 miles, the latter portion tapping valuable sources of traffic, as the river is only navigable a short way from its mouth. Besides its 16 tunnels, small and great, the railway is crossed by several handsome bridges, first to one bank of the river and then the other, as the gradients were found favourable, and there is one very fine station, called Disengano, a portion of the cost of which was contributed by the Marqueza de Bependi, who has a magnificent fazenda near to it, and numerous large picturesque fazendas are seen at different bends of the river, which rolls along in its rocky bed, with a succession of small rapids, the hills above it being covered with coffee, Indian corn, and mandioca, all now ripe. Where this cultivation does not exist either virgin forests or cattle grazing form the variety, and the former still occupy a large portion of the country we passed through, particularly between Uba station and that of Parahyba do Sul. I am told that Vassoura, a city about seven miles from the station of that name, is prettily situated and interesting, but of course it is impossible to see everything in so extraordinary a range of country.

We reached Entre Rios station before noon, and found the stage coach waiting; also a tolerable dinner, which the flies tried to participate in, being only held in check by boys with large feather fans. The place, I believe, is infested by flies from the number of mules kept there; but the company is improving and extending the accommodation for passengers, the head station being 800 feet in length. The guard of the “Mazeppa” summons the passengers, and away we started with four good mules, amidst dust and bustle, by a regular stage coach of the old English type, the first stage being along the banks of the Rio Preto, coming down from the mines. The road was all that had been described to me and more; a perfectly good, smooth, macadamised one, fenced in with groups of bamboo on the river side and aloes on the other, along which we drove at the rate of nine to ten miles an hour. I was inside at starting, but some passengers left at the second station, Parahybuna, when I mounted on the front seat for the remainder of the journey, and enjoyed as fine a ride, for good travelling and good scenery, as it is possible to conceive.