Chapter XVI

Free Distribution of Frémont's Reports—Latter Day
Saints—Murder of a Prophet—Brigham Young Guides Saints
to the Wilderness—The State of Deseret—California the
Golden—Massacre at Mountain Meadows—Old Jacob, the Mormon
Leatherstocking—Steam on the Lower Colorado—Old Jacob
Finds the Crossing of the Fathers—Circumtouring the Grand
Canyon—Solitudes of the Colorado—Last of the Wilderness
Problems—Powell Solves it by Masterful Courage—The Iron
Trail—The End and the Beginning 303

INDEX 339

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

THE SIERRA BLANCA _Frontispiece_

Blanca Peak, 14,390. Baldy Peak, 14,176. Blanca Peak is
the third highest in Colorado.

The point of view is on Trinchera Creek looking north
from an altitude of about 8000 feet. To the left is the
San Luis Valley through which flows the Rio Grande, and
to the right are the two high passes known as Veta and
Sangre de Cristo. The Sierra Blanca forms the southern
end of the Sangre de Cristo Range and was one of the
great landmarks of the Wilderness.

Sketch in oils made at the place by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

THE BACKBONE OF THE CONTINENT 3
Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

WILDERNESS OF THE UPPER MISSOURI 5
Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

THE YOSEMITE VALLEY 7
Photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

THE GRIZZLY GIANT 9
Height, 285 feet. Circumference, 93 feet.
Copyright by C. C. Pierce & Co.

A WILDERNESS HOME 11
Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

THE MOUNTAIN PART OF THE WILDERNESS 14
Relief map by E. E. Howell.

NO PLACE FOR BEAVER 15
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

BEAVER COUNTRY 17
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

GREAT BEAVER DAM—GRASS LAKE, 260 FEET LONG 19
From Morgan's _American Beaver_.

RED CANYON—GREEN RIVER 20
Where Ashley went for beaver in 1825.
Photograph by E. O. Beaman, Colo. Riv. Exp.

BEAVER CANAL 22
From Morgan's _American Beaver_.

LOWER COLORADO RIVER—MOUTH OF GILA ON RIGHT 23
Where Pattie trapped beaver in 1826.
Photograph by Delancy Gill.

TREES CUT BY BEAVERS 26
From Morgan's _American Beaver_.

BEAVER TRAP 29

THE BEAVER 30
Copyright, 1901, by Doubleday, Page, & Co.

THE MONARCH OF THE PLAINS 33
The figure a photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

PICTURE OF BUFFALO ON CLIFF WALL, SOUTHERN UTAH 37
Pecked drawing, copied by B. L. Young.

THE GRAND TETON FROM JACKSON'S HOLE 39
The buffalo reached this valley by 1824.
Photograph by W. H. Jackson, U. S. Geol. Survey.

CANYON OF LODORE—GREEN RIVER 41
Canyons of this character are almost continuous from a
few miles below the Union Pacific Railway crossing.
Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

HEAD OF BISON BULL 43
Specimen shot by Theodore Roosevelt, Dec. 17, 1883.
From Roosevelt's _Hunting Trips of a Ranchman_.

BUFFALO CHASE 45
After Catlin. From _Smithsonian Report_, 1888.

CHARACTER OF BUFFALO RANGE IN GREEN RIVER VALLEY 47
Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S., Colo. Riv. Exp.

CANYON OF DESOLATION—GREEN RIVER 50
A barrier to the buffalo's westward movement.
Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

MANDAN BUFFALO DANCE 51
After Catlin From _Smithsonian Report_, 1885.

BUFFALO SWIMMING MISSOURI RIVER 52
After Catlin. From _Smithsonian Report_, 1885.

A VILLAGE OF THE PLAINS 55
This form of tipi was readily taken down and as
readily set up again.
Photograph by U. S. Government.

A PAI UTE FAMILY AT HOME 57
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

A UTE MOUNTAIN HOME 58
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

VILLAGE OF THE PUEBLOAN TYPE. VIEW IN THE MOKI
TOWN OF MISHONGNAVI, ARIZONA 59
Photograph by U. S. Bu. Eth.

UMATILLA TIPI OF RUSH MATS ON COLUMBIA RIVER 61
From _Lewis and Clark_, by O. D. Wheeler.

AMERIND LINGUISTIC MAP 62
After Bu. of Eth. Seventh An. Rep.

A PUEBLOAN FARMHOUSE 64
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

PLENTY-HORSES, A CHEYENNE 65
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

A PAI UTE MODERNISED 67
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

RUIN CALLED CASA GRANDE, ARIZONA 69
Photograph by Cosmos Mindeleff, U. S. Bu. of Eth.

SOUTH PORTION OF THE TEWA PUEBLO OF TAOS, NEW
MEXICO 71
Photograph by U. S. Bu. of Eth.

NAVAJO SILVER BEADS—ACTUAL SIZE 72
From U. S. Bu. Eth.

SOUTH-WESTERN BASKETS—APACHE, PIMA, ETC. NAVAJO
BLANKETS BEHIND 73
Photograph by J. B. Lippincott, U. S. Geol. Survey.

MOKI WOMAN MODELLING A CLAY JUG 76
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

EARTHENWARE FROM MOKI REGION 77

THE RUINS IN CANYON DE CHELLY, ARIZONA, CALLED
"CASA BLANCA." THESE WERE ONCE CONNECTED. 78
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

OLD MANDAN HOUSE 79
From _Wonderland_, 1903, Northern Pacific Railway.

A YOUNG COCOPA 80
Photograph by Delancy Gill.

REAR VIEW OF MANDAN VILLAGE, SHOWING BURIAL-GROUND 81
Drawing by Catlin, plate 48, vol. i.; Catlin's _Eight
Years_. Reproduction from _Smithsonian Report_, 1885,
part ii.

A DAKOTA OF THE PLAINS 83
Figures from photograph by U. S. Government.

A UINTA UTE 84
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

UMATILLA WOMAN AND CHILD 85
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

MANDAN VILLAGE ON THE MISSOURI, 1832 86
Drawing by Catlin, plate 47, vol. i.; Catlin's _Eight
Years_. Reproduction from _Smithsonian Report_, 1885,
part ii.

A GROUP OF CROW CHIEFS 87
Photograph by U. S. Government about 1875.

GRANARY—CLIFFS OF GREEN RIVER, THIRTY FEET ABOVE
GROUND 90
Photograph by L. H. Johnson.

INTERIOR OF A MOKI HOUSE 91
The women at the back are grinding corn, while those
at the right are baking bread on a hot slab in
paper-like sheets. Above is the chimney-hood. U. S.
Bu Eth.

SITTING BULL 93
From _Wonderland_, 1901, Northern Pacific Railway.

BELLOCHKNAHPICK—THE BULL DANCE 94
Mandan ceremonial. Drawing by Catlin, plate 67, vol.
i., Catlin's _Eight Years_. Reproduction from
_Smithsonian Report_, 1885, part ii.

DETAILS OF NAVAJO LOOM CONSTRUCTION 95
U. S. Bu. Eth.

A NAVAJO 96
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

SCALP-DANCE OF THE SIOUX 97
Drawing by Catlin, plate 297, vol ii., Catlin's _Eight
Years_. Reproduction from _Smithsonian Report_, 1885,
part ii.

A GROUP OF DAKOTAS 98
Photograph by U. S. Government about 1875.

NECKLACE OF HUMAN FINGERS 99

HOUSE RUIN ON GREEN RIVER, UTAH 101
Photograph by L. H. Johnson.

ALARÇON'S SHIPS IN THE TIDAL BORE, MOUTH OF THE
COLORADO, 1540 105
Drawing by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

CHARACTER OF THE SEVEN CITIES WHICH FRIAR MARCOS
SO GLOWINGLY DESCRIBED 109
Drawing by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

NEW MEXICO, 1540 TO 1630 115

CHURCH AND MISSION OF SAN XAVIER DEL BAC, ARIZONA 118
Mission founded 1699. The church here shown was
finished in 1797.

ON THE YUMA DESERT 120
Character of the country around the head of the Gulf
of California.
Photograph by Delancy Gill.

CHURCH OF THE MISSION SAN CARLOS DE MONTEREY 121
Mission founded in 1770.
Photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

GLEN CANYON, COLORADO RIVER 123
This shows the nature of the Colorado where Escalante
crossed in 1776. The surface on each side is barren
sandstone.
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

BARRIERS OF ADAMANT, MISSION RANGE 128
Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

A RECEPTION COMMITTEE 131
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

IN THE HEART OF THE WILDERNESS—SOUTHERN UTAH 135
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

GREAT FALLS OF THE MISSOURI 137
From _The Trail of Lewis and Clark_, O. D. Wheeler.

GREAT FOUNTAIN GEYSER—YELLOWSTONE PARK 141
From _Wonderland_, 1901, Northern Pacific Railway.

SUMMITS OF THE BACKBONE 145
Gray's Peak, 14,341 feet; Torrey's Peak, 14,336 feet.
Photograph by U. S. Geol. Survey.

MOUTH OF THE COLUMBIA FROM ASTORIA 149
Cape Disappointment, left distance. From _The Trail
of Lewis and Clark_, O. D. Wheeler.

MAP OF THE WILDERNESS SHOWING AMERICAN ACQUISITIONS 154

MOUNT HOOD—FROM CLOUD CAP INN 159
From _Wonderland_, 1903, Northern Pacific Railway.

CANYON OF THE GATES OF THE MOUNTAINS 165
From _The Trail of Lewis and Clark_, O. D. Wheeler.

JUNCTION OF THE MADISON AND JEFFERSON 167
The Madison at left, the Jefferson at the right centre.
From _The Trail of Lewis and Clark_, O. D. Wheeler.

THE DALLES OF THE COLUMBIA 169
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

SNAKE RIVER BELOW LEWISTON. ON LEWIS AND CLARK'S
TRAIL 171
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

ROUTE OF LEWIS AND CLARK FROM MARIA'S RIVER TO
TRAVELLER'S REST AND RETURN 173
From _The Trail of Lewis and Clark_, by O. D. Wheeler.

NEW MEXICAN CART 177
Drawing by Julian Scott. From Bulletin of the Eleventh
Census.

A ROCKY MOUNTAIN TORRENT 179
Photograph by J. K. Hillers, U. S. Geol. Survey.

A GLADE FOR THE WEARY. ALTITUDE 8000 FEET 183
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

PIKE'S PEAK THROUGH THE GATEWAY OF THE GARDEN OF
THE GODS 187
(Pike got his view of it from a mountain to the left,
not seen.)
Photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

VEGETATION OF THE SOUTH-WEST 191
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

CANYON OF THE YELLOWSTONE FROM GRAND VIEW 195
From _Wonderland_, 1903, Northern Pacific Railway.

A MANSION OF THE WILDERNESS 197
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

SAWMILL GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE PARK 201
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

THE DEADLY RATTLER 203
From _The Mystic Mid-Region_, by A. J. Burdick.
Photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

SHOSHONE FALLS, IDAHO, FROM SOUTH SIDE, BELOW 205
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

SHOSHONE FALLS, SNAKE RIVER, IDAHO, FROM BELOW 207
Sketch by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

SHOSHONE FALLS, SNAKE RIVER, IDAHO, FROM ABOVE, SOUTH
SIDE 209
Photograph by G. K. Gilbert.

BOAT MADE OF FRAMEWORK OF STICKS COVERED WITH BISON- OR
HORSE-HIDE 211
Frequently used in early days of the West.
From _The Trail of Lewis and Clark_, by O. D. Wheeler.

ON THE VIRGIN RIVER, SOUTHERN UTAH 217
Near where Escalante went in 1776. Pine Valley Mountain
in distance.
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

AN ARIZONA THISTLE 220
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

A FULL LARDER 223
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

STANDING ROCKS, COMMON IN THE WILDERNESS 227
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

IN THE MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS—VULTURE PEAK 230
Photograph by R. H. Chapman, U. S. Geol. Survey.

BEFORE SUNRISE 231
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

GREEN RIVER VALLEY 233
Photograph by C. R. Savage.

ARROW WEED IN THE YUMA COUNTRY 236
Photograph by Delancy Gill.

RED CANYON OF GREEN RIVER 239
Length, 25 miles. Walls 1800 to 2500 feet high.
Average width of water, 250 feet. Ashley was the
first white man to pass through this gorge.

ASHLEY FALL, RED CANYON, GREEN RIVER 241
Ashley's name was found on right of the picture
on one of the huge fallen rocks, about at the top of
the old dead tree.

LOWER FALLS OF THE YELLOWSTONE 245
From _Wonderland_, 1901, Northern Pacific Railway.

ON THE GILA RIVER, ARIZONA 248
This is the place chosen for the San Carlos irrigation
dam.
Photograph by J. B. Lippincott.

HEADWATERS OF VIRGIN RIVER 251
Named Adams River by Jedediah Smith in 1826.
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

PRAIRIE DOGS 254
From _Wonderland_, 1901, Northern Pacific Railway.

ON THE YUMA DESERT. A DYING HORSE 256
Photograph by Delancy Gill.

AN OLD BEAVER HAUNT 261
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

THE HEART OF THE SIERRA 263
Photograph by Watkins.

A ROSE OF NEW MEXICO 266
Photograph by C. C. Pierce & Co.

ON THE GILA 268
Photograph by J. B. Lippincott.

CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE 271
A General when this was taken, long after his
trapping career.
Photograph from Montana Historical Society.

"OLD FAITHFUL" GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE PARK 274
From _Wonderland_, 1901, Northern Pacific Railway.

ELK IN WINTER 277
From _Wonderland_, Northern Pacific Railway.

IN THE SIERRA NEVADA 279
On the Merced, Yosemite Valley. Walker, 1833, was
probably the first white man here.
Copyright C. C. Pierce & Co.

A WILDERNESS WAGGON ROAD 282
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

STEAMER "YELLOWSTONE" ASCENDING THE MISSOURI IN
1833 285
From _Travels_, etc., 1832-3-4, by Maximilian, Prince
of Wied, 1843.
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

BEFORE THE SAWMILL COMES 289
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

THE GREAT OR LOWER FALL OF THE YELLOWSTONE 291
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

JIM BRIDGER IN HIS LATTER DAYS 293
Photograph from Montana Historical Society.

GREEN RIVER FROM GREEN RIVER VALLEY TO WONSITS
VALLEY 295

SNOW-BOUND IN THE WILDERNESS—1875 297
Pencil sketch on the spot by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

CANYON OF LODORE, GREEN RIVER 299
The first on record to go through this and the canyons
immediately below it—that is, from Brown's Park to
Wonsits Valley—was Joe Meek and a party of trappers
on the ice, in the winter of 1838-39.
Photograph by E. O. Beaman, U. S. Colo. Riv. Exp.

A CHANCE MEETING 301
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

A MORMON SORGHUM MILL AND EVAPORATING PANS 306
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

A SETBACK 307
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

IN COUNCIL 311
General Sherman third from left of white group.
Photograph from United States Government.

THE STEAMBOAT "EXPLORER" 316
In which Lieutenant Ives, in 1858, ascended the
Colorado to the foot of Black Canyon.
Sketch by H. B. Mollhausen.

WHERE THE WILDERNESS LINGERS 319
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

RUNNING THE COLORADO 321
Drawing by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

UPPER PART OF MARBLE CANYON—COLORADO RIVER 323
This gorge merges into the Grand Canyon at the mouth
of the Little Colorado. The length of both together
is about 300 miles. The first to travel this
distance were Powell and his men, 1869.

THE GRAND CANYON REGION 326

THE THOUSAND-MILE TREE 328
A hemlock 1000 miles from Omaha.
Photograph by C. R. Savage.

SECRET TOWN TRESTLE 329
1000 feet long. Maximum height, 90 feet.
Photograph by C. R. Savage.

SNOW SHEDS IN THE SIERRA 331
Photograph by C. R. Savage.

ADOBE RUINS OF GREEN RIVER—UNION PACIFIC TERMINUS 332
Photograph, 1871, by E. O. Beaman, U. S. Colo. Riv.
Exp.

SCENE BEFORE DRIVING THE LAST SPIKE—PROMONTORY
POINT, UTAH, MAY 10, 1869 333
John Duff in front, immediately beneath engine.
Sidney Dillon at his left. The Reverend Doctor
Todd asking a blessing.
Photograph by C. R. Savage for the Union Pacific
Railway.

THE AMES MONUMENT—UNION PACIFIC RAILWAY 334
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

DRIVING THE LAST SPIKE, 3.05 P.M. (NEW YORK TIME), MAY
10, 1869 335
Locomotive "Jupiter" of the Central Pacific, and "119"
of the Union Pacific about to meet when last spike is
driven.
Photograph by C. R. Savage for the Union Pacific
Railway.

THE LAST TIE 336
Union Pacific Railway, 1869. Made of California
laurel polished, and with a silver plate on the side.

THE LAST SPIKE 337
Union Pacific Railway. Made of gold.

A MODERN FAST TRAIN 337
From _Wonderland_, 1901, Northern Pacific Railway.

THE MORMON TEMPLE—SALT LAKE CITY 338
Photograph by F. S. Dellenbaugh.

CANADA LYNX 361
From _Wonderland_, 1904, Northern Pacific Railway.

BREAKING THE WILDERNESS