Chapter IX: Fancy Stitches (2)

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 7 skeins 615; 3
skeins 645; 2 skeins 644.6, 1 skein each 503, 505, 582, 661, 662,
692.8, 753, 754. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish
stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page
92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk.

Border.--Outline the scroll in each corner with Corticelli Filo Silk, 645. Work the scallop inside the scroll with White, 615, to the depth of half an inch. Into the white shade 644.6, leaving a long and short effect on the inside of the scallop. Fill the space between the outside scroll and the scallop with fine seed stitches made with 645. Work the scroll inside of stitching solid in satin stitch with 645. See Colored Plate XX.

Flowers.--Begin the points of the petals with White, 615, shading to the center with Green, 692.8, 661, and 662. Fill the centers with French knots in Yellow, 503 and 505. See Colored Plate XX. Work the buds in 692.8 and 661. (These small buds are darker than open flowers.) In the large buds use some white also. Work the calyx with Green, 754.

Leaves.--Begin the points with Green, 753, shading gradually darker with 754 to the center. Use 582 for the stems and veins. (Easy.)

_Wild Rose Design No. 612 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 3 skeins each 638,
639, 645; 2 skeins each 644.6, 655.8, 655.9, 781, 782; 1 skein each
504, 615, 780, 783, 784. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes.
See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed. No silk is therefore required for buttonholing the edge.

Border.--Use same instructions as given for working Border of Daisy Design 612 D, page 49.

Flowers.--Begin the edge with 639 and shade lighter to center with 638, 655.9, 655.8. Make some petals lighter and some flowers lighter than others. Vary the shading. In the center of the open flower work a few stitches of Green, 780, and irregularly around these stitches make French knots in Yellow, 504. A study of Colored Plate IX will assist one in shading this design.

Leaves.--Work solid. Begin the edge with Green, 780, shading gradually darker to the center with 781, 782, 783. Vary the shading. Make the leaves under the flowers much darker. Use but a little of 780 and only on tips. Work the veins and stems with Green, 784. (Easy.)

_Apple Blossom Design No. 612 F._

COLORED PLATE XXI.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 615; 3
skeins 645; 2 skeins each 636, 637, 644.6, 655.7, 655.8, 781, 782;
1 skein each 527, 616, 755, 783, 852. Smaller sizes take less silk.
Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22
inch sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk. For this reason only a small quantity of silk is required for working, as none is used for buttonholing the edge.

Border.--Use same instructions as given for working border of Daisy Design 612 D, page 49.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 636, shading lighter to the center with 655.8, 655.7, 616. Make some petals lighter by omitting 636 and use 615 in place of 616 toward the center. Vary the shading by making some flowers almost white. In each petal make two or three stamens with Green, 781, and place a small French knot of 645 at the end of each stamen. See Colored Plate XXI.

Buds and Calyx.--Begin the edge of the petals with 637, shading lighter to the base with 636. Work all the buds darker than the flowers. Work the calyx in Green, 782.

Leaves.--Work solid. Use Green, 781, for the points, shading gradually darker to the center with 782, 783, 755, with a touch of 852 near the base and midvein. Vary the shading as usual. Work the stems solid with 755, 852, 527, using most of 527. (Not Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 613 A._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
506, 725, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss,
1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish
stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration. The effect is quite novel, and as the designs are simple only a small quantity of silk is needed to work the pattern.

Flowers.--Work solid. Use Corticelli Filo Silk, Violet, 725, for the edge of the petals, shading darker toward the center with 727, 728, 729. Make the three lower petals lighter than the upper two. In the center of the open flowers work a few stitches of Yellow, 506, and a stitch of Green, 781, on each side of the yellow. Work the buds with 729, 728, and 727. Work the calyx solid with 781 and 782, the darker shade nearest the stem.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 781 for the edge and shading darker to the center with 782. Work the veins and stems in 783. The slit in corner, or the line across the ends of the stems, work in fine buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, White, 615. (Easy.)

_Buttercup Design No. 613 B._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 754, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss,
1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish
stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration. The effect is quite novel, and as the designs are simple only a small quantity of silk is needed to work the pattern.

Flowers and Leaves.--Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Buttercup Design No. 607 E, page 39, and illustrated by Colored Plate XVI. (Easy.)

_Daisy Design No. 613 D._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins 615; 1
skein each 503, 505, 582, 661, 662, 692.8, 753, 754. Smaller sizes
take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in
9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration. The effect is quite novel, and as the designs are simple only a small quantity of silk is needed to work the pattern.

Flowers and Leaves.--Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Daisy Design, 612 D, page 49, and illustrated by Colored Plate XXI, although of course the rules for working the border do not apply to this design. (Easy.)

_Forget-me-not Design No. 613 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
504, 518, 519, 520, 678, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss,
1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish
stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

These octagon shaped patterns require no buttonhole work on the edges, as the linen is folded under and securely sewed as shown by the illustration.

Flowers.--Work solid. Make the petals in Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 518, 519, 520. Vary the shading by making one or more petals in some of the flowers of a lighter shade. Tip some of the petals with a touch of Pink, 678. Put a French knot in Yellow, 504, in the center of the open flowers. Make some of the buds in Pink, 678, and others in Blue, 519.

Leaves.--Work solid, using Green, 781, for the points, shading gradually darker to the stem with 782, 783. Make some leaves lighter than others. Work the stems in 783. The slit in corner, or the line across the ends of the stems, work in fine buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, White, 615. (Easy.)

_Chrysanthemum Design No. 613 F._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
502, 503, 504, 505, 507, 716, 717, 718, 719, 781, 782, 783, 784.
Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 615. Smaller sizes take less
silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22
inch sizes. See page 92.

Red Flowers.--Work the points of the petals in the background in Corticelli Filo Silk, 719, shading lighter to the base with 718, 717. Work the points of the petals in the foreground with 719, shading lighter with 718, 717, 716. The petals that droop in the foreground make lighter by omitting 719.

Yellow Flowers.--Work the points in the petals with Yellow, 507, shading lighter with 505, 504, 503, 502. Change the shading in different petals by using either lighter or darker shades of silk. The petals that are on top make light, using the lightest shades toward the center of the upper petals. Use your taste in arranging the colors. You can work red and yellow flowers in one spray, or make each spray different, either way will be pretty. Use Green, 782, 783, for the calyx.

Leaves.--Work the points with Green, 781, shading to the stem with 782, 783. Use 784 for the stems. (Not Difficult.)

_Purple Clematis Centerpiece Design No. 56._

AND SET OF 4 DOILIES, NO. 56A, 56B, 56C, AND 56D.

COLORED PLATE XXII.

BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--22 inch Centerpiece: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins
785; 3 skeins 784; 2 skeins each 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 783;
1 skein each 621, 622, 779.5, 780, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian
Floss, 8 skeins 615. Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 and 27 inch sizes. They
can also furnish stamped linen, 9 inch square, of the set of four
doily designs (Nos. 56A, B, C, D), to match this centerpiece. See
page 92.

One can always do better embroidery, as is the case in all branches of art, if thoroughly familiar with one's subject; then the mind, which is really the source of intelligent work, can act through the pencil, the pen, or the needle, and give to the result the added touch of knowledge at first hand. Therefore, if possible, before working this design secure a spray of the real clematis, choosing the variety known as _Clematis Jackmanni_, which is probably one of the best known.

The Purple Clematis blossoms in June, July, or August, according to the climate, but it can be secured from florists during other months. Notice that the flowers often have four petals, and nearly as often _five_. This is a marked peculiarity of the plant. Observe also the buds and sprays of leaves, starting from the axils of the branches; the curling tendency of the stems, by which tendril-like quality the plant climbs. Sometimes the leaves will drop off from these stems, leaving occasionally what looks like a real tendril, but what is in reality the leaf-stem.

This centerpiece may be worked in heavy outline, which produces a very decorative effect with less labor, but this is not recommended, the design being of a large and handsome flower, which calls for stronger and more lasting treatment, and the instructions given therefore are for solid embroidery, in long and short stitch. (See article on Stitches--"Feather Stitch.") While purple is the usual color of the flower, it is sometimes very pale lavender, but for a decorative design merely, the flowers might be worked in white with greenish shadings.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of petals with Purple, 729, shading gradually lighter toward the base of the petal, using 728, 727, 726, 725. The lightest shades should come into a vein in the center of the petal. For the under side, or turned over parts, of the petals use 725 and 726. The contrast between the color of upper and under sides is very marked. Work the pistil solid, using 781 for the upper and 782 for the lower half. See Colored Plate XXII.

Centers.--Outline the stamens with Green, 780, 781. Make the outer stamens, which are heavier than those inside and somewhat irregular, with a double thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, and the inner stamens with a single thread. At the point of each stamen make a French knot with Purple, 729. Use 780 and 781 also for the center from which the petals have dropped. Work the buds solid, in 725, 726. At the base of each shade into the stem a few stitches of 780.

Leaves.--Work solid in long and short stitch, with 779.5, 780, 781, 782, 783, 784, 785, being careful to slant the stitches in the same direction as the veins, that is, from the edge in toward the central vein, but sloping toward the base of the leaf. Shade from light on the edge to dark near the midvein, See Colored Plate XXII. The leaves are large and many shades can be used with advantage. Work some of the smaller leaves in lighter shades than the large leaves at the bottom of the spray. The veins in the leaves should not be indicated too distinctly. They are shown with clearness in the illustration so that the correct direction may be easily followed. One shade lighter than the darkest shade used in the leaf will be correct for the veins. For the turned over parts of leaves use 780 or 781.

Stems.--Work solid in 783, 784, 785, and where the stems are largest use a little Reddish Brown, 621, 622. The stems from buds, also the tendrils, should be made in 782, 783, 784.

COLORED PLATE XXII.]

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, or if desired use Light Green Persian Floss, 780. If fringe is wanted buy the 27 inch square of stamped linen, buttonhole the edge very fine and even all around with Corticelli Etching Silk. Then fringe the linen to the buttonhole edge, comb out the threads evenly and trim to any length wanted. (Not Difficult.)

_Purple Clematis Doily Designs Nos. 56A, 56B, 56C, and 56D._

Three of these doilies are designed so that the decoration will show even should a tumbler or a finger bowl be placed upon them, and if six or a larger number of doilies are desired for a set, repeat these three patterns. In the fourth design, No. 56 A, the decoration is confined to the center of the doily, this being intended for a bread or cake covering, or for any purpose where a central decoration is most useful. The instructions given for the clematis centerpiece will be ample for working these doilies. (Not Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 615 A._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 505,
661, 725, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian
Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. In the three shell shaped scallops the stitches should be irregular on the inside. Now shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Green, 661, into the white (in these three shell shaped scallops), giving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate VI for method of working border.

Flowers.--Work solid in Violet, 729, 728, 727, 725. Make the three lower petals lighter, the two upper petals darker, working the edge of the petal lighter and darker toward the center. Make a few solid stitches of Yellow, 505, in the center of the flower.

Leaves.--Work solid with Green, 781, 782, 783. For the stems and veins use 784. (Easy.)

_Daisy Design No. 615 B._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 505,
615, 661, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615.
Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of
this design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Use same instructions as given for Violet Design No. 615 A, page 57.

Flowers.--Work solid; the edge of the petals with White, 615, using 661 toward the center. Make French knots in the center of the open flower with Yellow, 505.

Leaves.--Work solid. For the points use Green, 781, shading darker toward the center with 782. Work the veins and stems with 783. (Easy.)

_Rosebud Design No. 615 C._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 642,
657, 659, 661, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins,
615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page
92.

Border.--Use same instructions as given for Violet Design No. 615 A, page 57.

Rosebuds.--Work the edge of some of the back petals with Red, 659, shading in with 657. The center should be lighter. Make some of the petals darker by using 642 on the edge and shading in with 659. The petals in the foreground should be lighter, using 659 and 657. Make the points of the calyx in Green, 781, and shade gradually darker toward the bulb, using 782, 783.

Leaves.--Work solid. For the edge use Green, 781, shading darker toward the center with 782. Work the veins and stems with 783. (Not Difficult.)

_Buttercup Design No. 615 D._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 503,
504, 505, 506, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615.
Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of
this design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. In the three shell shaped scallops the stitches should be irregular on the inside. Now shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 503, into the white (in these three shell shaped scallops), giving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate VI for method of working border; the coloring however will be found different from that intended for this design.

Flowers.--Work solid. Use 505 for the edge, and gradually shade lighter to the bottom of the petal with 504, 503. Three shades to a flower are sufficient. Make some petals darker by using 506 on the edge instead of 505. In the center of the open flowers work a few stitches of Green, 781, and around these make a few French knots in 781, also. See Colored Plate XVI.

Leaves.--Work the leaves with 781 in satin stitch, slanting the stitches across the leaf. For the stems take 782. (Easy.)

_Maiden-hair Fern Design No. 615 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 527,
780, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller
sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this
design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. In the three shell shaped scallops the stitches should be irregular on the inside. Now shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Green, 780, into the white (in these three shell shaped scallops), giving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate VI for method of working border.

Leaves.--Work solid, making each leaf of one shade. Make the leaves at the top of each spray with 781, the next two leaves with 782, and those next below with 783. Continue to make the leaves darker toward the bottom of the spray. Work the stems in very fine stem stitch with a thread of Filo Silk, 527, split in two parts. (Easy.)

_Forget-me-not Design No. 615 F._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 504,
517, 519, 520, 679, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins
615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design in 6, 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page
92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. In the three shell shaped scallops the stitches should be irregular on the inside. Now shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 517, into the white (in these three shell shaped scallops), giving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate VI for method of working border; the coloring however, will be found different from that intended for this design.

Flowers.--Work solid. Use Blue, 517, 519, 520, for the petals, varying the shading. Give a touch of Pink, 679, to some of the petals. Make a French knot of Yellow, 504, in the center of the open flowers. Work some of the buds with Blue, 519, and some with Pink, 679. Use Green, 782, for the calyx.

Leaves.--Work solid. For the points use Green, 781, shading toward the stem with 782. Work the stems with 782. (Easy.)

_Jewel Design No. 50._

COLORED PLATE XXIII.

BY EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins each 113,
114, 809, 810, 811; 3 skeins each 752.9, 753; 2 skeins each 700,
701, 786, 787, 788; 1 skein each 646, 650, 656, 812. Corticelli
Persian Floss, 4 skeins 786. Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk,
8 skeins 809.

_Materials_--9 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each of
above shades. Corticelli Persian Floss, 1 skein 786; Corticelli EE
Twisted Embroidery Silk, 2 skeins 809. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Jewel embroidery is more than ever popular, and deservedly so, not only on account of the scope it gives for daintiness of design, but more especially because of the splendid possibilities in the arrangement of color. Of course one is not slavishly tied to copying the exact color of any particular gem; the decorator's license is available here just the same as in reproducing flowers, an artistic and harmonious scheme of color must be the first consideration. Unless the jewels be of unusual size it is better to work each individual gem in one shade, varying the tone if repeated in the same group. It must be remembered that embroidery, like any textile fabric, to a great extent shades itself, especially when the surface is glossy. In this style of design it is well to introduce as great a variety of coloring as possible, avoiding however very violent contrasts.

We suggest a scheme that will be found to work beautifully, but many others might be thought out with equally good results. It should be observed, however, that in formulating a scheme all the colors employed should be chosen in about the same tone to avoid the spottiness so often found in amateur work; the very best designs can easily be spoiled through inattention to this rule. The task of following exactly the directions given is rendered easy by means of the numbers on the labels attached to each skein of Corticelli Silk and by reference to Colored Plate XXIII.

The work is solid throughout except where the scallops are filled in beneath the scrolls with crossed bars; these are laid in place from side to side, and caught down at each intersection. The jewels are put in with satin stitch. (See article on Stitches.) They should be raised a little by filling. This can be done in two ways, either by filling one way in satin stitch and crossing the filling in the opposite direction in finishing (see engraving), or by working a circle in stem stitch and following the circle inside until quite filled in, then covering with satin stitch. When covering the filling, always start in the center and work out each way. It will then be found easy to preserve the form. It is hardly worth while to use a different kind of silk for the filling; it is poor economy and saves very little after all, while the additional fastenings off are liable to make the work lumpy. The jewels are more pronounced if outlined, but this is optional. If outlined, a rich Burnt Sienna shade, such as No. 646, will be very effective and not at all heavy. The jewels should be worked with Corticelli Filo Silk.

For the four sections composed of scrolls, and for the scallop exactly beneath them, choose three delicate shades of Apricot, 809, 810, 811. Use the lightest in Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk for the scallop, and shade the scrolls with the three tones in Filo Silk. Put in the crossed bars with Green Filo Silk, 752.9, and catch them down with 753. The outside scrolls are also worked with 752.9. The small scrolls at the apex and on either side, also the upper bars in stem stitch, are of a golden hue, for which take 113, 114. The large central jewel and those heading the golden bars, are green. Use 700 for the large one and 701 for the small ones; those on either side on the bars are Violet, 650; the three below and one above the large center jewel are also worked with 650; the remaining single gems on either side of the center are Red, 656. See Colored Plate XXIII.

COLORED PLATE XXIII.]

We now come to the intervening forms embracing three scallops. Work the lily forms with Filo Silk in three shades of Blue, 786, 787, 788. Work the three scallops in Persian Floss, with Blue, 786. The jewels are golden, being worked with Filo Silk, 113, 114. The diamond shaped jewel is put in with 812, representing a pink topaz. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Apple Blossom Design No. 406 A._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
636, 637, 645, 655.7, 781, 782, 783. Dealers can furnish stamped
and hemstitched linen of this design in 6, 7, 9, 12, 15, 18, and
21 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish stamped and
hemstitched linen for tray cloths and bureau scarfs to match this
design, 18×27, 18×36, 17×54, and 17×72 inches. See page 92.

These designs are especially adapted for beginners. The 7 and 9 inch sizes make pretty doilies, and the larger linens work up into very attractive centerpieces, tray cloths and bureau scarfs.

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin edge of petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, 637, shading lighter toward center with 636, 655.7. In the center of the open flowers make a few stitches in 781 to represent stamens, and make three or four French knots around these stitches with 645. Work the buds solid, using 637 for edge and 636 near calyx. Use 782 for calyx. A study of Colored Plate XXI will assist one in getting the right shading and stitch direction.

Leaves.--Work solid, beginning points with 781, shading darker to midvein with 782. Stems should be worked solid or with two or three rows of outline stitch, using 783. Use 783 also for veins. (Easy.)

_Buttercup Design No. 406 B._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 503,
505, 506, 781, 782. Dealers can furnish stamped and hemstitched
linen of this design in 6, 7, 9, 12, 15, 18, and 21 inch sizes. See
page 92. They can also furnish stamped and hemstitched linen for
tray cloths and bureau scarfs, to match this design, 18×27, 1×36,
17×54, and 17×72 inches. See page 92.

These designs are especially adapted for beginners. The 7 and 9 inch sizes make pretty doilies, and the larger linens work up into very attractive centerpieces, tray cloths, and bureau scarfs. Only a small quantity of silk is required for these patterns.

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin the edge of petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 506, shading gradually lighter to center with 505, 503. Vary the shading in petals, making some light and some dark. Work the calyx with Green, 781. The buds should be worked darker than the open flowers. A study of Colored Plate XVI will be found helpful to beginners.

Leaves.--Work solid, beginning points with 781 and shading to midvein with 782. Work the stems in outline stitch with 782. (Easy.)

_Chrysanthemum Design No. 406 C._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 673,
674, 678, 781, 782. Dealers can furnish stamped and hemstitched
linen of this design in 6, 7, 9, 12, 15, 18, and 21 inch sizes. See
page 92. They can also furnish stamped and hemstitched linen for
tray cloths and bureau scarfs to match this design, 18×27, 18×36,
17×54, and 17×72 inches. See page 92.

These designs are specially adapted for beginners. The 7 and 9 inch sizes make pretty doilies, and the larger linens work up into very attractive centerpieces, tray cloths, and bureau scarfs.

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin the edge of petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, 674, shading lighter to the calyx with 673 and 678. Make some petals lighter by omitting 674. The petals in the background should be darker than those in the foreground. Use 781 for the calyx. A study of Colored Plate XXII will be found helpful to beginners.

Leaves.--Work solid, beginning the points with 781, shading darker to midvein with 782. Work the stems in outline stitch with 782. (Not Difficult.)

_Daisy Design No. 406 D._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
503, 505, 615, 660.5, 661, 662, 754. Dealers can furnish stamped
and hemstitched linen of this design in 6, 7, 9, 12, 15, 18, and
21 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish stamped and
hemstitched linen for tray cloths and bureau scarfs to match this
design, 18 x 27, 18 x 36, 17 x 54, and 17 x 72 inches. See page 92.

These designs are especially adapted for beginners. The 7 and 9 inch sizes make pretty doilies, and the larger linens work up into very attractive centerpieces, tray cloths, and bureau scarfs.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, White, 615, shading toward the center with 660.5. Work the centers in fine French knots in Yellow, 503, 505, placing those in 505 above those in 503. Work the calyx in 661. See Colored Plate XX for method of shading.

Leaves.--Begin the points with 661. Shade darker to the center with 662 and 754. Vein with 754 and work the stems in outline stitch with same shade. (Easy.)

_Sweet Pea Design No. 406 E._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 123,
124, 126, 128, 129, 501, 680, 725, 726.5, 727. Dealers can furnish
stamped and hemstitched linen of this design in 6, 7, 9, 12, 15,
18, and 21 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish stamped
and hemstitched linen for tray cloths and bureau scarfs to match
this design, 18 x 27, 18 x 36, 17 x 54, and 17 x 72 inches. See
page 92.

These designs are especially adapted for beginners. The 7 and 9 inch sizes make pretty doilies, and the larger linens work up into very attractive centerpieces, tray cloths, and bureau scarfs.

Flowers.--Sweet Peas are always difficult owing to the great variety of shades found in the flower. Begin the edge of the two upper petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, Pink, 128, shading darker to center with 129 and 680. For the lower petals use the same shades; at the base work a few solid stitches of Green, 123 and 124, for calyx. For a purple and yellow flower begin the edge with Yellow, 501, into which shade Purple, 725, and near the base, or where the petals meet, use 726.5 and 727. For the turn over part use 725. The buds should be darker than the open flowers. Carefully examine Colored Plate XXVII, before beginning to embroider this design.

Leaves.--Work the leaves in 123, 124, 126, shading from light on points to dark near the center and base of leaf. Work the stems and tendrils in 123, 126, using the former for the ends of tendrils only. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Forget-me-not Design No. 406 F._

HEMSTITCHED EDGE.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
504, 518, 519, 521, 678, 781, 783. Dealers can furnish stamped
and hemstitched linen of this design in 6, 7, 9, 12, 15, 18, and
21 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish stamped and
hemstitched linen for tray cloths and bureau scarfs to match this
design, 18 x 27, 18 x 36, 17 x 54, and 17 x 72 inches. See page 92.

These designs are especially adapted for beginners. The 7 and 9 inch sizes make pretty doilies, and the larger linens work up into very attractive centerpieces, tray cloths, and bureau scarfs.

Flowers.--Work solid, making each petal of one shade. Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 518, 519, 521, are the forget-me-not shades. Make an occasional petal in Pink, 678. Put one or two French knots in the center of every open flower with Yellow, 504. Work the buds darker than the open flowers. Use Green, 781, for the calyx.

Leaves.--Work solid, beginning the points with 781, shading darker to midvein with 783. Work the stems in outline stitch with 783. (Easy.)

_The "Queen" Embroidery Hoop._

Most professional needleworkers use a large frame, and work with both hands. For amateurs a hoop is the next best thing. Mrs. Haywood recommends the "Queen" hoop. It is, in fact, quite superior to the ordinary wooden or rubber ones. It is a smooth wooden hoop, true in circle, with rounded edges; the outer hoop is a stiff spring wire band, interlaced with braid. This hoop requires no wrapping for either light or heavy material as the spring band will keep the goods stretched to a uniform tension. It is made in 4, 5, 6, and 7 inch sizes, and can be had at nearly all dry goods stores.

COLORED PLATE XXIV.]

_Maréchal Niel Rose Design No. 602 B._

COLORED PLATE XXIV.

BY AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each
615, 616, 616.5, 740, 741, 742, 780, 781; 1 skein each 692.8, 743,
743.5, 782, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615.
Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of
this design in 18 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

For the more experienced worker this design has many attractions, and aided by the Colored Plate many who otherwise would be unable to embroider this rose will find no difficulty in following the directions. It is as handsome a design as the most ambitious could desire, affording opportunity for very artistic treatment.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. For the flowers in the border choose Corticelli Filo Silk, 615, shading to center with Green, 692.8. Put a few French knots of Yellow, 742, in the center. Or work the centers of these border flowers in Yellow, 740, instead of Green, 692.8, shading outward with 616.5 and 616.

Large Rose.--Begin the edge of some of the petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 743.5, shading gradually lighter to 616 at base. The edge of the other petals can be done with Yellow, 740, shading darker toward base with 741, 742, 743, 743.5. The turn over petals must be raised high by filling in with long stitches of Corticelli Roman Floss, although darning or embroidery cotton can be used; over this filling work Filo Silk, Cream White, 616, care being taken to slant the stitches in almost the opposite direction from those in the rest of the petal. See Colored Plate XXIV. In working the roses remember to use the darker shades for the back petals, as well as for the hollows or deep places and choose the lighter shades for the high-lights or the raised parts, such as turn over petals and those on the outside.

Buds.--Work solid, using 743.5 for the point of the buds, shading lighter toward calyx with Yellow, 743, 742. Work the points of calyx with Green, 780, shading darker toward the bulb with 781, 782, 783, 784.

Leaves.--Work solid. For edge of some of the leaves use Green, 781, shading toward the center with 782, 783. Vein with 784. For the smallest leaves 780 can be used for the points, shading toward the center with 781, 782, and veining with 783. A study of Colored Plate XXIV will repay one, as it gives the shading of the leaves as well as of the roses. (Difficult.)

_Rabbit Chafing Dish Design No. 53._

COLORED PLATE XXVI.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 134,
136, 137; 1 skein each 105, 140, 534, 561, 645, 646, 647, 656,
779.5, 781, 782, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian Floss, 8 skeins 781.
Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of
this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, Green, 781. See Colored Plate XXVI.

Rabbits.--The rabbits can be worked in outline, or a better way would be to work them partly solid. These instructions are for the partly solid work. Begin working all around the rabbits' ears in long and short stitch with Gray, 134; shade 105 into the gray, and inside the ear use very light pink, 534. Around the eyes and nose make irregular stitches with 136, working the eyes solid with Pink, 656. A few stitches will give expression. Choose 137 for the back of the rabbit, and, using long and short stitch, slant the stitches a little toward the tail downward. Now shade lighter to the side, using 136, 134. Begin the under side of the rabbit with 137, and with 136 and 134 shade lighter upward and toward the center in the direction the fur would seem to take. Shade under the head and bend of the legs with 137. Care must be taken in working the rabbits to give the right direction to the stitches, otherwise the effect will not be good. See Colored Plate XXVI.

Grasses.--Work solid in long and short stitch with Green, 779.5, 781, 782, 783, 784, and Bronze, 561, 140, making each spear of grass of one shade.

Scrolls.--Work in outline stitch with Brown, 645, 646, 647, shading from light at end to dark at base. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Photograph Frames._

_Directions for Mounting and Framing._

Embroidered frames are now always mounted under glass. This preserves both the needlework and the picture, besides greatly enhancing the beauty of both. After carefully examining all ready made frames in the market we recommend the "Imperial Passepartout Frame" as the best. It is strongly and yet neatly made, having a white leather binding, holding the glass firmly in place. It has a sliding back, with strong gilt wire easel, and suitable cardboard mounts with die cut openings for pictures. It is self-contained and absolutely dust proof. The embroidered linen can be removed at any time and a new design substituted. These frames are made in two sizes, viz.: 8 x 10 inches and 10 x 13 inches; the former has an opening for one photograph; the latter, openings for two pictures. Square or oval openings are used according to the design of the stamped linen. See page 92.

After the embroidery is finished, proceed to complete the frame as follows: cover the face of the frame with cotton wadding, and lay the embroidered linen on top, being careful to see that the design is in proper position, the plain part being over the opening in the frame. Draw the linen tightly and tack with pins on each corner. Now place the frame on its face, stretch the linen over its edges and fasten it on the back with good, strong glue or mucilage,--glue is preferable. Be careful to draw tightly and avoid creases. Allow plenty of time to dry; then with a sharp penknife, cut the opening, if it be a square one, making four cuts from the center to each of the four sides of the opening, thus: X. Draw the four pieces cut through the opening and paste them on the back. If the opening is an oval, begin at the center and cut the linen in slits toward edge; draw tightly and evenly and glue down. Place the photograph in position over the opening; over this put the cardboard, which will hold the picture in place. Clean the glass and slip the linen, cardboard and all, into the frame. Now slide the back into place and the frame is complete.

If you do not want to purchase a ready made frame, any good stationer will mount your embroidered linen, or you can do it yourself and then have it framed by a stationer. A small gilt beading made to order will increase the beauty of the frame. In mounting follow these instructions: cut a frame from heavy cardboard, the stiffer the better, about 7 x 9 inches, noting the size of the linen and allowing an inch margin on sides, top, and bottom. Cut a hole in the cardboard for opening for picture, and proceed to mount as per directions for "Imperial" frames. If the embroidery is not to be put under glass, cut out another piece of thin cardboard, size of first, cover with silk, sateen, or linen, and then sew front and back together on sides and bottom, leaving enough space at top to slip in the picture. Use white silk and make stitches as fine as possible. If you cannot obtain a ready made easel to put on the back, make one from stiff cardboard, covered with linen.

_Holly Photograph Frame Design No. 1._

BY AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
582, 583, 584, 586, 754, 767, 768, 781, 785. Dealers can furnish
stamped linen of this design 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

It would be impossible to find a more appropriate Christmas present than this pretty Holly design, embroidered and neatly framed ready for inserting the picture.

Berries.--Work in satin stitch similar to working jewels (see page 62), with Corticelli Filo Silk, Red, 767, 768, using only one shade in each berry.

Leaves.--Work solid, using Green, 781, for the edge. Shade darker toward the midvein with 754, 582, 583, 785, 586. Make some leaves darker than others. Work the stems and veins in 584 and 785. For directions for mounting and framing see page 69.

_Pansy Photograph Frame Design No. 5._

INSTRUCTIONS BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
504, 672, 674, 676, 726, 727, 729.5, 743, 783, 785. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

"Pansies for thoughts" are always pleasant to associate with tokens of friendship; and the needlewoman who selects this subject for her skill may be sure that her choice will prove a welcome gift to a friend.

Pansies.--Use Corticelli Filo Silk, Purple, 726, 727, 729.5. For another shade of purple, which will give variety, yet will combine well with the above, take 672, 674, and 676.

Flowers.--In working the flowers use the ordinary long and short stitch, keeping each petal with the stitches tending towards the center of the flower; let the darkest shading be at the edge of the petal, shading gradually to light at the base; and in several of the flowers let the two upper petals be quite dark. More than this will give too heavy an effect; therefore work the other blossoms in the lighter shades, letting the veinings only, be dark. One large French knot of Yellow, 504, will be needed in the center of each pansy.

Leaves.--The leaves may be worked in long and short stitch, with 783 and 785, keeping the direction of the stitches toward the central vein, but inclining downward to the base of the leaf. A careful study of Colored Plate I (Frontispiece) will give one suggestions as to the proper shading, and will be found as helpful as more elaborate directions would be, although the colors are not identical with those for this design.

Before mounting the embroidery be sure that it is well pressed; if it has become in any way soiled, it should be carefully washed according to the directions given on page 6. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69.

_Violet Photograph Frame Design No. 3._

DOUBLE FRAME FOR TWO PICTURES.

_Materials_--10 × 13 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
506, 726, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design 12 × 15 inches. See page 92.

Violets.--Use same instructions as given for working Violet Design No. 402 A, page 40. Directions for mounting and framing will be found on page 69.

_Forget-me-not Frame Design No. 60._

BY EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--8 × 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
115, 623, 624, 678, 780, 781, 782. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design, 10 × 12 inches, which allows ample margin for
mounting. See page 92.

The simple Forget-me-not design for a photograph frame for a cabinet sized photograph should be very popular. To present one's picture thus framed to a valued friend carries with it a pretty sentiment, the favorite little flower of heavenly blue pleading for us that we may be remembered. The treatment is of the simplest kind. Both blossoms, buds, and leaves are worked in satin stitch, with French knots for the centers. The stems are in outline or stem stitch. For such small flowers Corticelli Filo Silk should be used in preference to any other kind of silk. Work the blossoms with 623, 624; the leaves and stems with 780, 781, 782. A very artistic effect can also be gained by working the blossoms with 699, 700, putting in the leaves and stems with 107, 108, 109. Make the French knots for the centers with 115. The buds may be of a delicate Pink, 678. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Easy.)

_Jewel Photograph Frame Design No. 61._

BY EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--8 × 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
105, 138, 139, 141, 142, 501, 624, 646, 647, 656, 657, 701, 702.
Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 10 × 12 inches.
See page 92.

There has always been a great demand for embroidered photograph frames, and recently those in simulated jewels have been among the most popular patterns. When worked the color effect will be found very rich and pleasing.

Leaves and Stems.--Work the leaves and stems in Olive Green Corticelli Filo Silk. For the leaves take 138, 139, 141, and 142, shading the spray from light to dark, working in satin stitch. Make one leaf in one shade and the next one in another.

DESIGN NO. 62.

COLORED PLATE XXV.]

COLORED PLATE XXVI.]

Jewels.--Work the three jewels at each corner to represent rubies, using 656, 657, the darker shade for the one in the middle. Working horizontally toward the center at top and bottom, the next group of three jewels should represent the topaz, and for this choose Yellow, 501. Still following the scroll toward the center, work the next three to represent the turquoise, using 701, 702; the darker shade for the jewel in the middle of the group, the lighter shade for the one on each side. We now come to the center of the frame. Work this group of three jewels in Salmon Pink, 105.

For the side scrolls, begin at the center, using 701, 702. The three jewels on each side of these work in 105, and the remaining group between those in 105 and the corner, should be made in 624. All jewels must be outlined with 646 or 647. Full directions for working jewels are given in the instructions for the Jewel Centerpiece Design No. 50, page 61. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Garland Photograph Frame Design No. 62._

COLORED PLATE XXV.

BY ALICE C. MORSE.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
124, 125, 126, 127, 503, 504, 505, 623, 624, 625, 636, 637, 638,
639. This quantity is more than enough. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design, 10 x 12 inches. See page 92.

Wild Roses.--Work the petals solid with Corticelli Filo Silk, beginning at the edge with 639, shading towards the center with 638, 637, 636. Work the petals that seem to be in the background darker than those that overlap them. Vary the shading in some of the flowers. In the center work a few French knots with 505. See Colored Plate XXV.

Forget-me-nots.--Work in satin stitch each petal or all petals in one flower in one shade of Blue, 623, 624, 625. Place one French knot in the center of the open flowers, using Yellow, 503.

Ribbon.--Work in satin stitch, in Yellow, 503, 504, slanting the stitches across the ribbon. Be careful to preserve the correct effect of the twisted part by working one side of the fold in 503, the next fold in 504, and so on. See Colored Plate XXV.

Leaves.--Work in satin stitch, using Green, 124, 125, 126, 127, making half of each leaf in one shade. Outline the stems with 127. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Jonquil Photograph Frame Design No. 63._

BY ELIZABETH MOORE HALLOWELL.

_Materials_--8 x 10 inch Frame: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
502, 503, 504, 506, 507, 750, 751, 752, 781, 782, 783, 783.5, 784.
Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, 10 x 12 inches.
See page 92.

For an Easter greeting, or a birthday present in early spring, a frame worked in this design will prove a welcome offering. This design may also be used for a magazine or book cover.

Flowers.--These may be worked in long and short stitch, or half solid Kensington, in which case somewhat less than the quantity of silk named above will be sufficient. However, we strongly advise working the whole design in solid embroidery, as the effect is very handsome and will repay one for the extra labor. Begin working the edge of the cup with Yellow, 504, gradually shading darker to the base with 506, 507, keeping the stitches perfectly straight. Work the edge of petals in Yellow, 502, and shade darker with 503, 504, to the cup. That part of the flower between cup and stem should be worked in 506 and 507. The curious paper-like shell which surrounds the flower at the point of attachment to the stem, work with 750, 751, 752, using 750 for the point, and shading darker to the stem.

Leaves.--Work solid, beginning at the point with 781, shading gradually darker to the base, using 782, 783, 783.5, 784. Work the stems solid in Olive Green, 782, 783, 783.5, 784, shading from dark near the bottom to light nearest the flowers. A little of 782 should be worked at one side of some of the stems.

Opening.--Outline the opening for the picture and the other straight lines in the design with Yellow, 507. Rules for mounting and framing will be found on page 69. (Not Difficult.)

_Corticelli Doily Book._

_Materials_--Corticelli Filo Silk: 3 skeins each of two shades.
(See below.) 1 piece linen, either Blue, Green, Tan, or Terra
Cotta, 12 x 20 inches, stamped with this design; 1 Doily Book.
Dealers can furnish all the above material. See page 92.

For Blue Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 741, 743.5, or
Pink, 678, 680.

For Green Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Green, 693, 695, or
Purple, 650, 651.5.

For Tan Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Scarlet, 537, 539, or Pink,
572, 573.5.

For Terra Cotta Linen use Corticelli Filo Silk, Pink, 635.5, 638,
or Green, 124, 127.

When working either Blue, Green, or Terra Cotta Colored Linen the
proper color numbers can easily be substituted in the following
instructions.

Every needleworker usually has several choice doilies that when not in use should be kept in some clean place where they will remain smooth and flat. This book holds twelve doilies. It contains thirteen leaves of tinted cardboard, each measuring 8-1/2 by 8-1/2 inches. The covers are stiff and the binding is strong.

Tan Linen and Scarlet Silk.--For the word "Doilies" use the darkest shade (539) Corticelli Filo Silk. First stuff the letters with embroidery cotton (or better still with Corticelli Roman Floss of same shade as silk) similar to the manner of working jewels. (See page 62.) Then cover the filling in satin stitch. The letters should appear as if raised. Work the four corner figures with long and short stitch in two shades of silk, using the lightest (537) for the outside and the darkest (539) for the inside, which includes the dot in the center. Work the stem or scroll in outline stitch in the lightest shade (537), and make the leaves running from it solid, in long and short stitch, with alternating shades of silk. The jewels in the scroll and the four just inside it should be first stuffed and then covered similar to the letters in the word "Doilies."

When completed, stretch the linen firmly over the stiff pasteboard covers and glue down on the inside. Sew two short ribbons, the color of the silk, to the linen on the inside, for tying the covers together. (Not Difficult.)

_Initials and Monograms._

BY DELLA V. WHIPPLE.