Chapter IX: Fancy Stitches (1)

There are many other so-called "fancy stitches." Among them the pretty "Herringbone" and its modifications are worthy of note.

_A._ _=Herringbone Stitch.=_--A short stitch taken from right to left, and as it proceeds the thread is drawn to the right and the work is carried in this direction. It is essentially a cross stitch. See Fig. IX _a_.

_B._ _=Ismit Stitch.=_--A slight difference in the plan of taking a stitch changes the entire effect. This is obvious in the "Ismit Stitch." It is taken exactly as the herringbone and the radical difference in the result is due simply to making the lines meet at a point. See Fig. IX _b_. When the lines are very long they may be fastened by couching stitches at the intersections.

_C._ _=Janina Stitch.=_--A very satisfactory way of filling in the petals of conventional flowers or flower forms. It may be used with really beautiful effect on the canvas materials with Corticelli Roman Floss or Rope Silk. It is also a good method for filling bars on borders. While it is not heavy unless worked close, it carries a decided color effect. It is one of the prettiest of the conventional stitches. See Fig. IX _c_.

_D._ _=Border Stitch.=_--This stitch is not unlike herringbone. It is however carried perpendicularly, while herringbone proceeds horizontally. The side or fastening stitches of the border work are very short. See Fig. IX _d_.

_"Doily" or "Doiley."_

The Inland Printer, a journal devoted to the printing and publishing trades, and a magazine generally considered authority on questions of orthography gives the proper spelling as "doily." The following explains itself.

Question.--Kindly give us the correct spelling of the word variously printed as "doily" and "doiley," and also the plural of the same. There has been considerable discussion in regard to the proper way to spell this word, and we will leave you to render the final verdict.

Answer.--Our final verdict in this case is simply that of all the dictionaries. Every one of them enters the word as "doily," and they are right in doing so, because, though the name from which it is derived was variously spelled as "Doily" and "Doyley," and maybe otherwise also, it is well to select one spelling--presumably the prevalent one--for the common name. At any rate, this is what the lexicographers have done, and no good reason to dissent from their choice is apparent. The plural of the form chosen is "doilies."

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 2: Copyright, 1897, by Mrs. L. Barton Wilson. All rights reserved.]

[Footnote 3: The ancient Phrygian workers who introduced this embroidery into Rome were accustomed to represent by it figures, chiefly of birds, and likely this is the source of its name. The name might also have been suggested by the effect of the stitch itself, which is that of close, evenly laid plumage.]

_Centerpieces and Doilies._

* * * * *

_Bulgarian Centerpiece Design No. 55_,

AND SET OF 3 DOILIES, NOS. 55A, 55B, AND 55C.

COLORED PLATE VII.

BY L. BARTON WILSON.

_Materials_: Corticelli Filo Silk, 6 skeins each 526, 626; 4 skeins
123; 3 skeins 645; 2 skeins each 125, 128, 130, 527; 1 skein each
126, 528, 542, 544. Corticelli Etching Silk, 12 skeins each 626,
645; 4 skeins 612. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design
in 22 inch size. They can also furnish stamped linen 7 and 9 inches
square of the set of three doily designs (Nos. 55A, 55B, 55C), to
match this centerpiece. See page 92.

The Bulgarian embroidery as we know it on the brown linen squares is valuable chiefly for its durability and pleasing coloring. These squares embroidered in the bright cottons make beautiful cushions and their use with Turkish rugs and hangings is very appropriate. The stitching is effective rather than accurate. The figures of the characteristic designs are crude, but they are full of suggestions and it is possible in carrying out these to obtain most graceful and dainty drawings. When they are adapted to fine white linens and embroidered in silks the result is at once orientally rich and sufficiently dainty for table use.

Heavy colorings are more and more to be urged for centerpieces and doilies which are to be placed under gas light. The color combinations for this set may seem at first startling, but when the shades are properly distributed the result is rich and harmonious.

Border.--Buttonhole the scalloped edge in blue and gold brown Corticelli Etching Silk, using shades 626 and 645 alternately for each scallop. One connecting scallop should be blue and the next one yellow. The inner edge of scallops should be outlined in Black Etching Silk, 612, also the straight lines enclosing the scroll and the bars of the doilies. The same Blue, 626, in Corticelli Filo Silk with Brown, 526, may be used for the scroll. Keep the blue on one edge and the brown on the other. Embroider in the "overlap" long and short stitch. Work the little trefoils within the scallop in satin stitch with Pink, 128, 130, and cross-bar them alternately with the scallop colors. See Colored Plate VII.

Flower and Leaf Forms.--These should carry the colors of the edge with a few in addition. Use in the leaf forms, in combination with Brown, 526, 527, and 528, the Greens 123, 125, and 126. In the flower forms use beside the blue and yellow, Pink, 128 and 130, and Red, 542 and 544. The leaf forms should be embroidered in long and short stitch. The flower forms may be made altogether or nearly solid or filled with feather stitch or satin stitch diapered. The satin stitch may be done in Filo Silk cross-barred with the Etching Silk. Distribute the colors in masses, that is, confine certain colors to certain forms, _combine_ the colors rather than mix them. The effect of cross-bar diapering in the flower forms of these figures is very pretty and the work is firm as well.

Corticelli Filo Silk alone should be used in the figures of the doilies even for the cross-barring, though the scallops and black lines should be of the Etching Silk. It is possible to introduce the red into the doily scallops in the little connecting points and to so combine the colors as to make all the edges different. Four of each of the doily designs form the dozen, and these may be still further varied by a little planning as to color schemes. The centerpiece and doilies may be embroidered with good effect in simple outline or rows of outline, known as the "Bulgarian stitch." If desired the entire work on the centerpiece may be done with Corticelli Etching Silk, and the effect will be really very beautiful, and novel as well, but the figures of the doilies are too small for such treatment. (Not Difficult.)

_Japanese Design No. 51._

COLORED PLATE VIII.

BY EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins, 779.5; 2
skeins each 655.7, 525.7, 525.8, 525.9, 655.8, 655.9, 656, 780; 1
skein 115. Corticelli Persian Floss, 8 skeins 780.

_Materials_--9 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each of
above shades. Corticelli Persian Floss, 2 skeins 780. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

It has been aptly said of Japanese designers that they know how to occupy a space without filling it, thus producing very beautiful effects with little labor. This remark applies well to this design, since it can be quickly worked, and it will prove very charming and effective for either a centerpiece or doily.

Border.--Work in indented (long and short on the inside) buttonhole stitch in two shades of pale soft green. For the outside edge use Corticelli Persian Floss, 780; into this blend Filo Silk, 779.5, still keeping the indented effect in the shading.

Almond Blossoms.--Work solid, beginning the edges of petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, 656, shading lighter to the center, using 655.9, 655.8, 655.7. In the center of the flower make French knots in Golden Brown, 115.

Stems.--Work solid in shades of Golden Brown, 525.7, 525.8, 525.9. The shading should be darker near the flowers and at the bottom of the stem than elsewhere. Use the lighter shades for working the small stems branching out from the main stalk.

Calyx and Small Buds.--Use Green, 780, for the upper part and Brown, 525.7, near the stems.

The work should be pressed before the edge is cut. If desired a double strand of Corticelli Filo Silk may be used for working the blossoms and stems. Great care must be taken, however, not to allow the strands to twist around each other. They should lie side by side, giving their full value. Even when working with a single strand great attention should be paid to keeping it from twisting. Keep it in its normal condition by occasionally untwisting; otherwise it will become like a wisp and all the beautiful gloss of this lovely silk will soon be lost. (Easy.)

_Pansy Design No. 603 A._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 507,
644.8, 645, 649.9, 650, 651, 652, 653, 654, 729.5, 754, 778, 781,
782, 783, 784. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in border in outline stitch with one thread of Filo in Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X in Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX for method of working border and cross-bar.

Flowers.--Work solid in Purple, 649.9, 650, 651, 652, 653, 654, 729.5. Begin edge of upper petals with 649.9, shading gradually darker to the center with 650, 651, 652. Work the edge of the three lower petals with 651, and shade gradually darker to center, using 652, 653, 654, 729.5. Put a few stitches of Yellow, 507, in the center.

Leaves.--Work solid in Green, 781, for points. Shade darker toward the center, using 782, 783, and for veins, 754. Some leaves should be worked with 781 on edge, 754 for center, and work veins with 784.

Scroll Lines and Cross-bar.--Outline the cross-bar lines with 645 and the scroll with 646.

A study of Pansy Design 605 B, Colored Plate I (Frontispiece), will give some hints as to how the pansies should be shaded, although the coloring is different. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 603 C._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 725,
727, 728, 781, 782; 1 skein each 506, 644.8, 645, 729, 778, 783.
Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design in 22 inch size.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in the border in outline stitch with one thread of Filo, Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X with Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX for method of working border and cross-bar.

Flowers.--Work solid in the shades of violet, making some flowers lighter than others. Work some of the petals darker on the edge and lighter toward the center, and reverse, some lighter on the edge and darker toward the center. Make a few solid stitches of yellow in the center of the open flowers. Work the buds solid in 728, 729, and the calyx solid with Green, 782.

Leaves.--Work the edge and points with 781 and shade darker to the center with 782. Use 783 for veins and stem. (Easy.)

_Wild Rose Design No. 603 E._

COLORED PLATE IX.

By AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 636,
655.7, 781, 782; 1 skein each 504, 637, 638, 639, 640, 644.8, 645,
755, 778, 780, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Persian Floss, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in border in outline stitch with one thread of Filo in Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X in Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX.

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin the edge of petals of open flowers with Pink, 639. Shade lighter to the center, using 636, 637, 638, 655.7. Make some lighter and some darker. Put three stitches of Green, 780, in the center, and surrounding center but 1/4 inch away make a few French knots in Yellow, 504. Work the back petals in the half flowers with Pink, 639, 640, and the front petals or those in the foreground with 637, 638, 639.

Buds and Calyx.--Work the buds with Pink, 639, 640, and the calyx points with Green, 780, 781. For the bulb and stem use 782.

Leaves.--Work solid. For the edge and points use 781, shading toward the center with 782, 783. The veins and stem work with 783, 755.

The Wild Rose is always a popular subject for embroidery, and even a beginner should have no difficulty in working the design as the Colored Plate IX gives the exact shading and stitch direction, (Easy.)

_Sweet Pea Design No. 603 F._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
644.8, 645, 678, 679, 680, 673, 674, 726.5, 727, 778, 780, 781,
782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. Work the cross-bar in the four corners in the border in outline stitch with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, Brown, 644.8. Where the lines meet make a cross stitch in Brown, 645. In the center space between the bars make an X with Brown, 778. See Colored Plate IX for method of working border and cross-bar.

COLORED PLATE IX.]

Flowers.--Work solid in shades of purple and pink Corticelli Filo Silk. Begin some flowers with Pink, 680, shading gradually lighter toward the center with 679 and 678. In others combine purple and pink. Begin with 674 and shade gradually to light pink; then darker toward the center, or reverse, using different shades in each flower. Reference to the Colored Plate of Sweet Pea Design 407G will be found quite a help in getting the proper shading, although the colors used are not identical with those suggested for this design.

Leaves.--Work the points with Green, 781, shading darker toward the center with 782, 783. Work the veins and stems in 783. For the tendrils use 780. (Difficult.)

_Pansy Design No. 605 B._

COLORED PLATE I.

(Frontispiece.)

BY AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 725,
727; 1 skein each 645, 726, 728, 729, 729.5, 740, 741, 742, 743,
743.5 743.7, 754, 766, 780, 781, 782. Corticelli EE Embroidery
Silk, 6 skeins 615. Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 18 and 22 inch sizes. See
page 92.

Pansies always have a peculiar charm of their own, and as subjects for embroidery afford opportunity for very skillful, as well as artistic, treatment. The range of color is so varied and the possibility of pleasing combinations is so great that the following instructions are given simply as a suggestion. However, the directions will be found ample for the less experienced needleworker who does not care for a color scheme of her own.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk, White, 615; or Persian Floss, 615, can be used.

Flowers.--Work solid in combination of Purple, 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 729.5, and Yellow, 740, 741, 742, 743, 743.5, 743.7. It would be effective to work some flowers all in purple, others in yellow with purple rays. Commence with the two upper back petals of the open flower nearest to the border. Work the edge of the petal with Yellow, 743; shade into that 743.5, 743.7, and use 645 near the center for shadow. Begin the edge of the three lower petals with 743, shading lighter to the center with 742, 741, 740. See Colored Plate I (Frontispiece). To lend variety the three lower petals in some yellow flowers can be made lighter on the edge and darker toward the center.

From the center of the flower, extending into the three lower petals make rays of Purple, 729. Work a few solid stitches of Scarlet, 766, in the center of the flower. Now begin with the two upper back petals of the purple flowers using 728 for edge of the petal, shading gradually darker to the center with 728, 729, and make a few stitches of 729.5 in rays, and as shadows. Begin the edge of the lower petals with 725 and gradually shade darker to the center, making rays in the three lower petals with 729.5. Work a few solid stitches of Scarlet, 766, in the center of the flowers. See Colored Plate I (Frontispiece) for shading and proper direction of the stitches.

Buds and Calyx.--Work the buds solid, using 727, 728, 729. Work the edge with 727 and shade gradually darker to the stem, using a little of 729.5 near the stem. Work the points of the calyx in Green, 781, shading toward the stem with 782 and 754.

Leaves.--Work the points of the leaves solid, in 780, shading gradually darker toward the midvein and base of the leaf, using 781, 782. (Difficult.)

_Garland Wild Rose and Forget-me-not Design No. 54._

BY ALICE C. MORSE.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 623,
624, 637, 638, 639, 640, 741, 742, 805, 806; 1 skein each 504,
625, 626, 780, 807, 808. Corticelli Persian Floss, 8 skeins 616.5.
Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of
this design in 18 and 22 inch sizes only. See page 92.

This garland design when embroidered will be a surprise to any one who has never tried a similar pattern. The coloring has a very rich, subdued tone which is quite different from that found in any other style of design.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 616.5.

Wild Roses.--Work solid, using all the shades of Pink Corticelli Filo Silk, 637, 638, 639, 640, working the edge of the petals dark, shading gradually lighter toward the center of the flowers. Use three shades in each flower. Vary the flowers, making some darker than others. In the center work four or five stamens with one thread of Filo, 780, and at the end of each stamen make a French knot with Yellow, 504. (See Photo Frame No. 60.)

Forget-me-nots.--Work in satin stitch with Blue, 623, 624, 625, 626. Don't try to shade each petal, but get light and shade effect by making some petals in 623, some in 624, etc. Use 626 for an occasional petal only, as the color is rather strong. Work in the centers one French knot with 742.

Leaves.--Work solid with Green, 805, 806, 807, 808. Make the larger leaves in the darker shades; the points of the leaves in 805. Veins and stems work with 808.

Ribbons.--Work in satin stitch, slanting across the ribbon, using Yellow, 741, 742. To give the effect of the twisted ribbon, work one turn of the ribbon with 741, the next fold with 742, and so on. If you prefer, Green, 125, 126, 127, can be used for the ribbon, carrying out the same idea as directed above. (Somewhat Difficult.)

_Easter Lily Design No. 605 D._

COLORED PLATE X.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 615,
692.8, 781, 782; 1 skein each 506, 661, 662, 663, 780, 783, 784.
Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less
silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 18 and 22
inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615.

Flowers.--Work solid, beginning the edge of the petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, White, 615, shading into it Green, 692.8, 661, 662, using 663 for the center. Work six or seven stamens in 781, putting three small stitches of Yellow, 506, at the end of each to form the top or head. Work the point of the buds with Green, 692.8, shading darker with 661, 662, 663, to the stem. See Colored Plate X.

Leaves.--Work solid, with Green, 781, for points, and shading gradually darker with 782, 783, and 784 to the stem. The leaf is worked straight from the point without veins. Use Green, 782, for the stems. When well done the shading in this design is very delicate. (Not Difficult.)

_Orchid Design No. 605 F._

COLORED PLATE XI.

BY AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 725,
726, 781, 782; 1 skein each 650, 651, 652, 676, 780, 783, 784.
Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less
silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 18 and 22
inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615.

Flowers.--Make a few stitches at the middle of the point of each petal with Corticelli Filo Silk, Purple, 676, shading toward the bottom of the petal with 652, 651, 650, 726, 725. Begin back edge, or lip, of cup with 651, shading darker toward the center with 652, 676. Do the front lip in similar manner, but use 650 for the edge and 651 to shade toward the center. Under the lip make the shadow with 676. From the center of the cup make a pistil in Green, 781. Careful study of Colored Plate XI will show the proper shading and correct direction of the stitches.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 780 for the point and shading gradually darker with 781, 782, 783, 784. Work the stems near the flower, with 783, shading darker with 784 toward the base of stem. (Somewhat Difficult.)

COLORED PLATE XI.]

COLORED PLATE X.]

_Buttercup Design No. 610 B._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 502,
504, 505, 506, 507, 582, 753, 754, 755, 781. Corticelli Persian
Floss, 5 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See
page 92.

Turning over one of the corners adds to the novelty of this design and the 9 inch size makes an especially dainty doily. The 22 inch size is for a centerpiece.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. One corner is turned under on the wrong side and buttonholed on the right side through both thicknesses of linen. Work the straight line, or slit, in the turned over corner in fine buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. The stems, which apparently come through the slit, should be worked in outline stitch with Filo Silk, Green, 755. Colored Plate V.

Flowers.--Make the edge with Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 507, shading lighter to the center with 506, 505, 504, 502. Some flowers should be darker than others. In the center of the flower work a few stitches of Green, 781, and around these stitches make a few French knots in 781 also. For the back petals of the buds use 507, shading lighter to the stem with 506, 505. Use Green, 582, for the points of calyx, and shade 573 into the stem, using this shade also for a part of each stem.

Leaves.--Make the points in Green, 781, shading gradually to midvein with 582, 753, 754. Omit 781 in some of the leaves, thus making them darker, and adding 755 at the bottom of the leaf. Use 755 for the stems. (Easy.)

_Carnation Design No. 610 C._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
635.5, 636, 637, 638, 640, 780, 781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian
Floss, 5 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 9 and 22 inch sizes. See
page 92.

These turned corner patterns are very simple, taking but a small quantity of silk and little time to work them.

Border--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. One corner is turned under on the wrong side and buttonholed on the right side through both thicknesses of linen. Work the straight line, or slit, in the turned over corner, in fine buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 615. The stems, which apparently come through the slit, should be worked in outline stitch with Green, 783. Colored Plate V.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 640, shading gradually lighter toward the calyx with 638, 637, 636, 635.5. Make some petals lighter than others by omitting 638, using only 637, 636, 635.5. For the calyx use Green, 780 and 781, shading darker to the stem with 783.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 780 for the points and shading gradually darker with 781 and 782. Work the stems with 783. (Easy.)

_Bohemian Glass Design No. 606 B._

COLORED PLATE XII.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins 615; 1
skein each 542, 644.6, 644.7, 644.8, 646, 649.9, 650, 651, 780,
781, 782, 783. Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk, 6 skeins 615. Smaller
sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this
design in 12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli EE Embroidery Silk, White, 615. Work the scrolls near the border in outline stitch with Filo Silk, Brown, 644.8. See Colored Plate II. Between the lines work innumerable small stitches with 946 to represent seeds. (See article on Stitches--"Seed Stitch.")

Pointed Figure.--Cross-bar the center of the pointed figure running inward from the border with 644.7, catching down the lines where they intersect with 646, and outline the figure with the same shade. See Colored Plate XII.

COLORED PLATE XII.]

COLORED PLATE XIII.]

Flowers.--Work solid in Violet, 649.9, 650, 651, making each flower in one shade, choosing the lighter shades for the flowers having five petals and making the flowers in the rear of the bunch in the darker shades. Put one French knot in the center of the open flower, using Green, 780. See Colored Plate XII.

Leaves and Vine.--Begin point of leaf with Green, 780, shading to center with 781, 782. Make some of the leaves darker by omitting 780. Work the veins and stems with 783. Along the vine work in seed stitch several groups of three or four little dots each, using Red, 542.

Inside Scrolls.--Work solid, making ends or points in Brown, 644.6, shading darker in the middle with 644.7, 644.8. For the shadow on each side of the fold use 646. For the half circle scroll use 644.6. Make the points of the Fleur-de-lis in White Filo, 615, shading darker to base with Brown, 644.6, 644.7, 644.8. Work the round dot solid in 646. (Not Difficult.)

_Nasturtium Design No. 607 A._

COLORED PLATE XIII.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 782,
783, 809, 812; 1 skein each 743.6, 743.7, 779, 781, 784, 813, 814.
Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller sizes take less
silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12,
18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, working the shell shaped scallop long and short on the inside. Into this shade work 809, using one thread of Filo Silk, still leaving the indented effect (alternate long and short stitches) on the inside. See Colored Plate III. Work the scroll near the border in seamstress feather stitch or outline stitch with Green, 781.

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin the edge with 814, using 813, 743.7, 743.6, 812, 809, toward the center. Make some flowers lighter than others. All the shades mentioned are not required for each flower. In each petal of the open flower make three rays in Brown, 779. The part of the calyx shown between the petals work in Green, 782. See Colored Plate XIII. Use 814 for the edge of the buds, shading lighter to the calyx with 813, 743.7. Put a touch of 743.7 at the end of calyx, work remaining part in 781, 782, using the lighter shade nearest the petals.

Leaves.--Work each leaf in one shade of Green, making all the stitches come to the center. Use 781 for the small leaves, and 782, 783, for the larger ones. For stems and veins use 784, and for the small buds 781. (Not Difficult.)

_Bachelor's Button Design No. 607 B._

COLORED PLATE XIV.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 661,
744; 1 skein each 662, 663, 664, 675, 745, 746, 781. Corticelli
Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. The edge of the shell scallop in the border should be worked with 615. Into this white shade Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 744, leaving a long and short effect on inside. See Colored Plate III. The scroll near the border should be worked with Green, 661.

COLORED PLATE XIV.]

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin the edge of the petals with Corticelli Filo Silk, Blue, 746, shading lighter to the center with 745 and 744. Fill the center with stamens in Red Purple, 675, placing a French knot at head of each stamen in Green, 781. See Colored Plate XIV. Work the part of calyx nearest the petals with Green, 662, and that nearest the stem with 663. Over this green make a few stitches like an inverted V "Λ," in 675. Work the seed pod in the same shades as the calyx, putting a few stitches in 675 on the edges as shown by Colored Plate XIV.

Leaves.--Work solid, making the points in 661, shading gradually darker to the center with 662, 663. For the stem use 664, making two lines of stem stitch, or use outline stitch, but slant the stitches more than usual. (Not Difficult.)

_Red Clover Design No. 607 C._

COLORED PLATE XV.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each
655.7, 678, 679, 782, 783; 1 skein each 680, 682, 781. Corticelli
Persian Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. The shell shaped scallop buttonhole irregularly long and short on the inside. Over this work Corticelli Filo Silk, Pink, 655.7, into which shade Pink, 678, leaving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate III. The scroll near the border can be done in either outline or seamstress feather stitch in Green, 781.

Flowers.--Work solid in shades of Pink, 655.7, 678, 679, 680, 682. Use only one shade for a petal. Make the back petals in 679, 680; the middle or center petals with 655.7, 678; and those nearest the stem in 680, 682. Be careful to keep the petals separate. See Colored Plate XV.

Leaves.--Work the leaves under the flower solid with green, using 782 for the edge, and 781 for the crescent or horseshoe. At the base of the leaves near the stem work a few stitches of 783, using the same shade for the stems. (Easy.)

_Chrysanthemum Design No. 607 D._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 506,
507, 508, 781, 782, 783; 1 skein each 504, 505, 616.5, 784, 813,
814. Corticelli Persian Floss, 6 skeins 616.5. Smaller pieces take
less silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9,
12, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 616.5. Buttonhole the shell scallop long and short on the inside, and over this work one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk 616.5, leaving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate No. III. The scroll near the center work in outline stitch with 813.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals in Yellow, 504, shading darker to the base of petal with 505, 506, 507, 508, 813, 814. It is not necessary to use all these shades in every petal; make some lighter and some darker. Work the center of the full flower in 504. For the petals that curl inward and over the center use 508, shading darker to base with 813, 814. Work the edge of petals of buds in 507, shading darker toward the calyx with 508, 813, 814. Use Green, 781, for the points of calyx, shading darker towards the stem with 782, 783.

Leaves.--Work the edges with 781, shading darker toward the center with 782, 783. Vein with 784. Work the stems in two rows of stem stitch with 784. (Not Difficult.)

_Buttercup Design No. 607 E._

COLORED PLATE XVI.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each
504, 505, 506, 507, 754, 781; 1 skein 503, 782. Corticelli Persian
Floss, 6 skeins 615. Smaller pieces take less silk. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

COLORED PLATE XV.]

COLORED PLATE XVI.]

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. Work the shell scallop in buttonhole stitch, long and short on the inside; work over the white with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, Yellow, 503, leaving on the inside a long and short effect. See Colored Plate III.

Flowers.--Work solid. Begin the edge of the petals with Yellow, 507, shading lighter to the center with 506, 505, 504, 503. Some flowers should be darker than others. In the center of the flower work a few stitches of Green, 781, and around these stitches make a few French knots in 781 also. See Colored Plate XVI.

Leaves.--Work solid. Begin the points with 781, and shade into 754 toward the center. Work the stems in outline stitch with Green, 754. (Easy.)

_Holly Design No. 607 F._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 582,
583, 754, 781, 785; 1 skein each 586, 615, 767, 768. Corticelli
Persian Floss, 6 skeins, White, 615. Smaller pieces take less silk.
Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and
22 inch sizes. See page 92.

For a Christmas or New Year's present nothing is more appropriate than a centerpiece or doily embroidered with the handsome holly. This design is quite simple and is easily worked.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615. Work the shell-shaped scallop long and short on the inside. Over this indented buttonhole work, shade in one thread of Filo Silk, White, 615, leaving a long and short effect on the inside. See Colored Plate IV, Borders. Work the scroll near the border in seamstress feather stitch or in outline stitch with Filo Silk, White, 615, or in Green, 781.

Berries.--Work in satin stitch with Corticelli Filo Silk, Red, 767, 768, using only one shade in each berry.

Leaves.--Work solid, using Green, 781, for the edge. Shade darker toward the center with 754, 582, 583, 785, 586. Make some leaves darker than others. Use 781 for the turned over parts of the leaves. Work the stems and veins in 584 and 785. (Easy.)

_Violet Design No. 402 A._

FRINGED DOILY.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 506,
726, 727, 728, 729, 781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less silk.
Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, ready fringed,
in 7, 9, 12, and 18 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish
stamped and fringed linen for tray cloth, 10 x 14 inches, to match
this doily. The above quantity of silk will be more than enough for
the tray cloth.

These fringed doilies are imported goods of fine quality. They are neat and dainty, require little silk to work, and together make as pretty a set of six patterns as we have seen.

Flowers.--Work solid. Use 726 for the edge of some of the petals, working darker to the center with 727, 728, 729. Use three shades to a flower. Commence other flowers with 727 on the edge and use 728, 729 toward the center. In the center of the open flowers work three stitches of Yellow, 506. Work the buds in 727, 728, and 729, and use 782 for the calyx.

Leaves.--Use Green, 781, for edge of leaf, shading toward the midvein with 782. Use 783 for the veins and stems. (Easy.)

_Clover Design No. 402 B._

FRINGED DOILY.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each
655.7, 678, 679, 680, 681, 781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less
silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, ready
fringed, in 7, 9, 12, and 18 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also
furnish stamped and fringed linen for tray cloth, 10 x 14 inches,
to match this doily. The above quantity of silk will be more than
enough to work the tray cloth.

These fringed doilies are imported goods of fine quality. They are neat and dainty, require little silk to work, and together make as pretty a set of six patterns as we have seen.

Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Red Clover Design No. 607 C, page 37, and illustrated by Colored Plate XV, although of course the rules for working the border do not apply to this design. (Easy.)

_Buttercup Design No. 402 C._

FRINGED DOILY.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 503,
504, 505, 506, 754, 781, 782. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design, ready fringed, in 7, 9,
12, and 18 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish stamped
and fringed linen for tray cloth, 10 x 14 inches, to match this
doily. The above quantity of silk will be more than enough to work
the tray cloth.

These fringed doilies are imported goods of fine quality. They are neat and dainty, require little silk to work, and together make as pretty a set of six patterns as we have seen.

Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Buttercup Design No. 607 E, page 39, and illustrated by Colored Plate XVI, although of course the rules for working the border do not apply to this design, (Easy.)

_Daisy Design No. 402 D._

FRINGED DOILY.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 503,
505, 582, 615, 661, 662, 692.8, 753, 754. Smaller sizes take less
silk. Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, ready
fringed, in 7, 9, 12, and 18 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also
furnish stamped and fringed linen for tray cloth, 10 x 14 inches,
to match this doily. The above quantity of silk will be more than
enough to work the tray cloth.

These fringed doilies are imported goods of fine quality. They are neat and dainty, require little silk to work, and together make as pretty a set of six patterns as we have seen.

Instructions for working this design are the same as given for Daisy Design No. 612 D, page 49, and illustrated by Colored Plate XX, although of course the rules for working the border do not apply to this design. (Easy.)

_Maiden-hair Fern Design No. 402 E._

FRINGED DOILY.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 527,
780, 781, 782, 783, 783.5. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design, ready fringed, in 7, 9,
12, and 18 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish stamped
and fringed linen for tray cloth, 10 x 14 inches, to match this
doily. The above quantity of silk will be more than enough to work
the tray cloth.

These fringed doilies are imported goods of fine quality. They are neat and dainty, require little silk to work, and together make as pretty a set of six patterns as we have seen.

Ferns.--Work solid. Slant the stitches toward the bottom, and thus bring them to a point at the stem. Make each leaf of one shade. Begin the leaves at the top of the spray with Corticelli Filo Silk, 780, and work down gradually darker, using 783.5 for those at the bottom of the spray. Work the stems with a split thread of Filo Silk, Brown, 527, making the stitches very fine. (Easy.)

_Forget-me-not Design No. 402 F._

FRINGED DOILY.

_Materials_--12 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each 504,
519, 520, 521, 678, 781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less silk.
Dealers can furnish stamped linen of this design, ready fringed,
in 7, 9, 12, and 18 inch sizes. See page 92. They can also furnish
stamped and fringed linen for tray cloth, 10 × 14 inches, to match
this doily. The above quantity of silk will be more than enough to
work the tray cloth.

These fringed doilies are imported goods of fine quality. They are neat and dainty, require little silk to work, and together make as pretty a set of six patterns as we have seen.

Forget-me-not.--Work solid in satin stitch, working all stitches toward the center. Make each flower of one shade, using 519, 520, 521, for the different flowers. Make a French knot of Yellow, 504, in the center. Work most of the buds with Pink, 678, and work the calyx with 782.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 781 on the edge, and shade toward the midvein with 782. Veins and stems make with 783. (Easy.)

_Conventional Wild Rose Design No. 52._

By EMMA HAYWOOD.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins each 106,
107, 108, 109; 3 skeins each 101, 102, 103, 105; 2 skeins each
525.7, 525.8, 525.9; 1 skein each 113, 647. Corticelli Persian
Floss, 8 skeins, 616.5.

_Materials_--9 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 1 skein each of
above shades. Corticelli Persian Floss, 2 skeins, 616.5. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 12, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

This dainty design of semi-conventional roses and leaves is quite unique in style. For the handsomer kinds of embroidery there is a decided leaning toward conventionalized forms, but many of the designs offered are so intricate and stilted as to be hardly practical. This, however, is both rich and graceful, with the added attraction that it is not difficult to work. The treatment, as well as the design, is somewhat conventional.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, Cream White, 616.5.

Roses.--For the roses we suggest a most delicious new shade of pink Corticelli Filo Silk, 101, 102, 103, 105. Take the darkest for the curled over edge, working in a slanting direction. The outer edge, however, should not be put in until the middle part is worked, so that the edge can be worked over it. The inner part should be graduated, putting the lightest next to the center so that one begins with 103 next the outer edge; 104 is left out so as to make a more decided break from the curled over edge. The round center is very effective worked in pale Gold Color, 113. This is covered with a network of crossed bars in a dark, rich shade of Brown, 647, and outlined with the same.

Leaves.--The leaves are worked mainly with a soft shade of green, but to avoid monotony golden brown is blended into the green at frequent intervals, sometimes half a leaf is brown, sometimes it is tipped with brown on one or both sides, or a little brown is worked in at the base of the leaf. For the green shades take 106, 107, 108, 109, and for the golden brown use 525.7, 525.8, 525.9. The stems and thorns are likewise put in with the three shades of brown. In working the leaves let the stitches take the direction of the veins; by this means the veining will be expressed much better than by putting it in. (Not Difficult.)

_Japanese Chrysanthemum Design No. 609 B._

COLORED PLATE XVII.

By AMALIA SMITH.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 672,
673, 678; 1 skein each 616.5, 655.7, 674, 755, 780, 781, 782, 783.
Corticelli Persian Floss, 5 skeins 615. Dealers can furnish stamped
linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

This is a very effective design, pleasing in coloring, and capable of very artistic treatment.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, with a long and short (indented) effect on the inside line. Work the under scallop with Corticelli Filo Silk, 678, using two threads in the needle. See Colored Plate IV for coloring and method of working border.

COLORED PLATE XVII.]

Flowers.--Work the back petals in 672, 673, 674, making the points dark and the shading lighter toward the center. The petals in the foreground should be made as follows: points in 672, shading lighter toward the base with 678, 655.7, 616.5. See Colored Plate XVII. Work the buds solid. Use 674 for the back petals of buds and for those in the foreground; use 672 for points, and shade lighter to the calyx, using 678, 655.7. Work the calyx solid in Green, 781 and 782.

Leaves.--Begin the edges with 781, shading gradually darker to the center with 782 and 783. Make some lighter by using 780 on the edge and 782 for the darkest shade. Vein with 783. For the stems use Green, 782, 783, and 755, working solid and making the end of the stem darker than the part nearest the flower. (Difficult.)

_Thistle Design No. 609 E._

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 684,
685, 686, 754, 781, 782, 783, 784; 1 skein each 672, 675, 726, 727,
729. Corticelli Persian Floss, 4 skeins 615; 3 skeins 672. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page
92.

Border.--Work the scallop in buttonhole stitch with Corticelli Persian Floss, 672 and 615. Work the outside scallop with Persian Floss, White, 615, and the small twining scallop with 672. See Colored Plate IV for method of working border.

Thistles.--Work the thistle with Corticelli Filo Silk, Purple, 672, 726, 727, 675, 729. Make each strand very fine and make each with as much of a feathery effect as possible. At the top of the thistle use 672, 726, and a little of 727. Make the upper part light; near the center use the darker shades, 675, 727, 729, but use 675 and 729 sparingly. Work the bulb of the thistle solid in Green, 781, 782, 783, 784. Near the top of the bulb work one or more rows, according to the size of the bulb, with Green, 782; the next two rows near the middle of the bulb, with 781, then gradually darker to the bottom near the stem. Another way to work the bulb is to work it solid with Green, 781, and cross-bar with Bronze Green, 852.

Leaves.--Work solid. Make one spray of leaves with Green, 781, 782, 783, 784. Use 781 for the points of the leaves and shade darker toward the center. Vein with 782, 783, 784. For another spray of leaves use 754, 684, 685, 686, working in the same manner as described above. Work the stems in stem stitch with 784, giving quite a slant to the stitches. (Not Difficult.)

_Buttercup Design No. 611 A._

ROCOCO BORDER.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each
615, 692.8; 1 skein each 503, 504, 505, 506, 507, 692.9, 753, 754,
780, 781, 782. Corticelli Persian Floss, 5 skeins 615. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, in buttonhole stitch long and short to the inside line. Shade into the white with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 692.8., making an even line or finish on the narrow part of the scallop but leaving an uneven edge at the points. Shade these points with a few stitches of 692.9, thus giving them a darker effect.

Four Corners in Border.--Work the cross-bar in outline stitch with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 692.8. Make a cross stitch with 692.9 where the lines intersect. Stuff the two jewels with cotton, or, better still, Corticelli Persian Floss, to raise the work, and then work over in satin stitch with Filo, 692.8, and outline with the same shade.

ROCOCO BORDER.

COLORED PLATE XVIII.]

COLORED PLATE XIX.]

Scroll.--Work the even side of the scroll around the cross-bar lines with Filo Silk, White, 615. Shade 692.8 and 692.9 into the white, giving the same effect as the border. The shading is shown on Colored Plate XVIII, but the colors are different.

Flowers and Leaves.--Instructions given for working the flowers and leaves in Buttercup Design No. 607 E, page 39, and illustrated by Colored Plate XVI, apply equally well to this pattern. (Not Difficult.)

_Violet Design No. 611 B._

ROCOCO BORDER.

COLORED PLATE XVIII.

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 2 skeins each 615,
644.6, 644.7, 644.8; 1 skein each 505, 645, 725, 727, 728, 729,
781, 782, 783. Corticelli Persian Floss, 5 skeins, 615. Dealers can
furnish stamped linen of this design in 22 inch size. See page 92.

Border.--Work the scallop with Corticelli Persian Floss, White, 615, in buttonhole stitch long and short to the inside line. Shade into the white one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 644.6, making an even line or finish on the narrow part of the scallop. Shade the points in the border with a few stitches of 644.7 and 644.8, thus giving them a darker effect. See Colored Plate XVIII.

Four Corners in Border.--Work the cross-bar in outline stitch with one thread of Corticelli Filo Silk, 644.8. Make a cross stitch with 645 where the lines intersect. Stuff the two jewels with cotton, or, better still, Corticelli Persian Floss, to raise the work, and then work over in satin stitch with Filo, 644.7, and outline with the same shade. (See Jewel Design No. 50, for directions for working jewels.)

Scroll.--Work the even side of the scroll around the cross-bar lines with Filo Silk, White, 615. Shade 644.7 and 644.8 into the white, giving the same effect as the border. See Colored Plate XVIII.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 725, shading darker to the center with 727, 728, 729. Make some petals darker by omitting 725 and 727. In the center of the open flowers work a stitch in Yellow, 505. Work the calyx solid with Green, 782.

Leaves.--Begin the edge in Green, 781, shading to the center with 782. Vein and stem with 783. (Not Difficult.)

_=Violet Design No. 612 A.=_

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 615; 3
skeins 645; 2 skeins each 644.6, 727, 728, 729; 1 skein 505, 725,
781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers can furnish
stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch sizes. See page
92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk. For this reason only a small quantity of silk is required for working, as none is used for the edge.

Border.--Outline the scroll in each corner with Corticelli Filo Silk, 645. Work the scallop inside the scroll with Filo Silk, White, 615, to the depth of half an inch. Shade into the white, Lemon, 644.6, leaving a long and short effect on the inside of the scallop. Fill the space between the outside scroll and the scallop with fine seed stitches with 645. Work the scroll inside of stitching solid with 645 in satin stitch. See Colored Plate XX.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals in 725, shading darker to the center with 727, 728, 729. Make some petals darker by omitting 725 and 727. In the center of open flowers work a stitch of Yellow, 505. Work the calyx solid in Green, 782.

Leaves.--Begin the edge in 781; shade to center with 782. Vein and stem with 783. (Easy.)

_=Carnation Design No. 612 B.=_

COLORED PLATE XIX.

COLORED PLATE XX.]

COLORED PLATE XXI.]

_Materials_--22 inch Size: Corticelli Filo Silk, 4 skeins 615; 3
skeins 645; 2 skeins each 636, 637, 638, 639, 644.6, 780; 1 skein
each 655.7, 781, 782, 783. Smaller sizes take less silk. Dealers
can furnish stamped linen of this design in 9, 18, and 22 inch
sizes. See page 92.

This design is square, the edges are doubled under and securely sewed with silk.

Border--Use same instructions as given for working border of Daisy Design 612 D. See below.

Flowers.--Begin the edge of the petals with 639, shading lighter to the calyx with 638, 637, 636, 655.7. Make some petals light and others dark. In the full flower it is better to make the back petals lighter and those in the foreground darker. See Colored Plate XIX. Work that part of the calyx near the petals with Green, 780, 781, and the bottom with 782.

Leaves.--Work solid, using 780 for the points and shading gradually darker with 781, 782. Use 783 for the stems. (Not Difficult.)

_Daisy Design No. 612 D._

COLORED PLATE XX.