Chapter VI: Buttonhole Stitches

SIMPLE BUTTONHOLE STITCH.]

_A._ _=Simple Buttonhole Stitch.=_--The Buttonhole Stitch is capable of more elaborate work on its own account than is generally supposed. Aside from the buttonhole scallop shown by Fig. VI _a_. which is now so popular as a finish on linens and for which the Corticelli Persian Floss and Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk are so suitable, it has many possibilities in large work. It is also a hand stitch and surfaces can be covered rapidly by its use, two points most acceptable to amateurs. Short stitches laid close carry better color effects than long ones far apart, although the color of the background, which shows through the long stitches, has a large influence upon the effect. Deep stitches in the buttonhole work must have a certain proportionate space between them, for stitches more than a quarter of an inch deep do not lie well close together. The line on which the loop is to fall should be held toward one. The needle should be put in on the opposite line of the width of the space to be covered and brought out directly below on the lower line. The thread should lie in front of the needle and under it, so that as it is drawn through and the stitch laid the knot will lie formed. The work is done from left to right and the stitches should be kept perpendicular. See Fig. VI _a_.

_B._ _=Blanket Stitch.=_--A wide-apart loose buttonhole stitch used principally on flannels. Corticelli Etching Silk or Corticelli EE Twisted Embroidery Silk is best suited for this work. See Fig. VI _b_.

_C._ _=Honeycomb Stitch.=_--An adaptation of buttonhole stitch, and is very nice for large work such as portieres. The first row of stitches is laid like the blanket buttonhole, quite loose. The next is fastened to the fabric only at the beginning and end of the row; between these points the loop stitches are caught into the loops of the first row, and so on with the succeeding rows, fastening through only where the rows terminate against the outline. It is necessary to keep the stitches very loose, as each row has a tendency to narrow. When the form is covered draw the last row in place and fasten it by a row of buttonhole stitches taken through the fabric like the first. It is possible to work back and forth. It is well to reverse the needle and send it through the loops eye end first, to avoid splitting the silk. The same form of stitch may also be taken through the material. See Fig. VI _c_.

DOUBLE BUTTONHOLE STITCH.]

_D._ _=Double Buttonhole Stitch.=_--A very pretty way of treating narrow bars from one-half to three-quarters of an inch wide is to use the double buttonhole stitch. Bring the needle up in the center of the width of the bar the full length of the thread and take the regular buttonhole stitch from this point over the upper line to a point a little above the start; draw this stitch through. The point of the needle in this case was directed _down_. Now put in the needle on the lower line of the bar and send it _up_ to a point a little below the start and a trifle to the right; keeping the thread to the right. Draw the stitch through and proceed to make another from above like the first, always keeping the thread to the right to form the loop. The effect of this is that of a satin stitch on the top and bottom of the bar with a braided line through the center. It is very effective and pretty. The braid may be made wider by making the stitches shorter. See Fig. VI _d_.

LADDER STITCH.]

_E._ _=Ladder Stitch.=_--Many of the lace stitches are buttonhole. The "Ladder" for instance is two rows of buttonhole stitch a short distance apart and parallel, connected by regular overcast stitches. The ground material is cut away between the rounds or overcast lines. The honiton lace is applied by buttonhole stitch, using Corticelli Lace Embroidery Silk. Fig. VI _e._ shows the so-called ladder.

_F._ _=Cat, Brier, Coral, or Seamstress Feather Stitch.=_--An alternate buttonhole loop first to the right and then to the left. The loops may be alternated singly or in pairs, or in threes or fours. It is almost too well known to need explanation. See Fig. VI _f_. (Also see Sofa Pillow Design No. 508.)