Chapter I: Part 1

MATERIALS FOR
SUPERIOR CROCHET AND
MACRAMÉ WORK

The success of crochet and macramé work depends largely upon the careful choice of superior materials which are suitable for the work, giving it the clean and finished appearance which is often missing from work that, being made from poor material, has an amateurish appearance. We recommend especially, for cotton crochet work:—

Bucilla Crochet
Bear Macramé

Bucilla Crochet

A smooth working, highly mercerized cotton suitable for making laces, center pieces, belts, purses, bed spreads, etc. White and ecru are made in fifteen sizes and the fifteen beautiful colors are made in four or more sizes. This is an American product and superior to all the imported articles that have been offered heretofore.

Bear Macramé

Is a heavier, mercerized, hard twisted cord suitable for all kinds of Macramé work as well as for crocheting. From it are made bags, portieres, table covers, lamp shades, etc. It is much called for by the exclusive trade.

Glossilla Crochet

Resembles the finest silk crochet thread, is more lustrous and retains its luster under all circumstances. It is used for neckties, belts, bags, etc.; is put up in convenient cartons from which the thread can be drawn while working, the remainder being entirely protected by the transparent shell. Each carton contains enough material for one necktie or belt.

This carton has been patented.

Klondyke Thread

Is a soft metal thread for crocheting. It comes in a rich, bright gold color, also in aluminum, antique gold and antique silver. It is superior to all metal threads on the market; does not tarnish easily and is most satisfactory for working purposes.

=Cro-Knitting=
_The New Art of Worsted Work_
ALSO
=Crocheted Lattice Work=
PRESENTING A COLLECTION OF ORIGINAL AND ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS WITH FULL
WORKING DIRECTIONS

PRICE, 25 CENTS

PUBLISHED BY
BERNHARD ULMANN & CO.
107 TO 113 GRAND STREET, NEW YORK CITY

COPYRIGHT 1914,
BY
BERNHARD ULMANN & CO.

FOREWORD

The new art of Cro-Knitting is, as its name implies, a combination of crocheting and knitting, the effects produced being as beautiful as they are novel. The variety of unusual stitches is almost without limit and leads the worker, who desires something out of the beaten path, into new fields that tempt her to go on and on seeking and finding unknown beauties at each step. Once mastered, Cro-Knitting may be used for numerous purposes.

In presenting this new art to the public, we feel that it will be welcomed by the many friends of the BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK.

We have included, in addition to Cro-Knitting, a number of designs for the new Crocheted Lattice Work that need only to be seen to be appreciated.

We wish, however, to advise the worker that in carrying out the various directions given, she uses exactly the materials designated. The directions were tested with the yarns and needles named and only by their use can the proper results be obtained. Do not substitute another yarn and then wonder why your work is not satisfactory. Use the yarn specified—

BEAR BRAND

Young Girl’s Norfolk

(_For description see page 7_)
]

CRO-KNITTING

“To knit from a crochet hook and crochet from a knitting pin” is the best description of Cro-Knitting. The rows of crocheting and knitting are worked alternately or as the various patterns demand. The work requires a pair of knitting pins (or needles, as they are sometimes called) and a crochet hook of the same length and size as the pins. The hook should be of an even thickness down its entire length, with a knob at the end, as the stitches are allowed to accumulate on it as in afghan stitch.

The work is always commenced on a knitting pin, the stitches being cast on in the usual manner (see Bear Brand Manual of Handiwork), followed by one or more rows of plain knitting.

KNITTED ROWS: the wool is to be held in the usual manner. The first stitch is to be slipped or knitted as directed, but where a row of knitting commences with a different wool, the first stitch is always knitted, to keep the stripe distinct.

CROCHETED ROWS: when working these from the knitting pin, the hook is inserted through the stitch on the pin, as though it were a second knitting pin (from left to right). When working into the back of a stitch, the hook is inserted in reverse manner (from right to left). When working the crocheted rows the wool is passed over the fingers of the left hand. When two knitting stitches are taken together the hook is passed through the stitch nearer the left hand (as in knitting) before entering the stitch next to the point of the pin. When the back threads of two stitches are taken together, this is reversed and the crochet hook enters first the stitch at the point of the pin. As the crocheted rows are worked from the stitches on the knitting pin, it is not possible to “skip one” as in ordinary crocheting, as the stitch would drop, but it is an easy matter to put one stitch into two knitting stitches taken together, thus producing an extremely pretty effect.

In the instructions, when the phrase occurs “1 double through two stitches, 1 double through the back of the same two stitches,” the repetition means that the stitches are to be held on the knitting pin until the second double has been made; then slip stitches from pin.

When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

STITCHES. The knitting stitches are merely the usual plain and purl. The basic crochet stitches are single, double and treble crochet and the various cluster stitches, some of which are illustrated.

SINGLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit 1 row. * With the crochet hook draw the wool through the stitch on the knitting pin; wool over hook and through the loop just drawn through, slip stitch from the pin and repeat from * all across. After row has been finished, there should be as many stitches on hook as there were on pin.

DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Wool over hook, draw the wool through first stitch on pin: wool over and through the two loops on hook. Slip stitch from knitting pin. * Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

TREBLE CROCHET STITCH.

Cast on any number of stitches and knit one row. Insert hook in first stitch and draw wool through, ch. 2 and slip stitch from pin. * Wool over hook, draw wool through next stitch on pin, wool over and through two loops, wool over and through one loop, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

AUTOMOBILE STITCH.

Cast on an even number of stitches and knit 4 rows.

First pattern row: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch, wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, slip stitch from pin, wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster, slip stitch from pin, * wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, slip off pin, wool over and pick up a loop in next stitch, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin and repeat from * all across.

Second pattern row: pick up a loop in the back thread of second and all remaining stitches, retaining loops on hook (as in afghan stitch). The loop on hook will count as first stitch.

Knit 2 rows. These four rows constitute one pattern.

CLUSTER STITCH.

Cast on an even number of stitches and knit one row.

Second row: insert crochet hook in first stitch, draw wool through, ch. 1, slip stitch from pin. * Make 1 treble crochet through the next two stitches together, 1 double crochet through the back of the same two stitches, slip stitches from pin and repeat from * all across, ending by working final stitch as first was made.

Knit 3 rows. Repeat these last four rows for the length desired.

LATTICE WORK.

This is a variation of ordinary crocheting, the stitches being those employed in that art.

The work is done with regular crochet hooks of various sizes, as designated in the instructions.

The novel feature is the fact, that _in addition_ to the hook, one large wooden pin, made like an ordinary knitting pin, is required. On this pin the stitches are placed so that regularity in the height of the lattice work rows is attained.

These “Lattice Pins” are made in four sizes, the largest. No. 1, being almost four inches in circumference. For fine lattice work a knitting pin of the desired size can be substituted.

The work is very simple and effective.

YOUNG GIRL’S NORFOLK.

(_See illustration page 4_)
.ce 1
Materials Required:

5 skeins Bear Brand German Knitting Yarn.
1 skein contrasting color, knitting yarn.
1 pair of amber knitting pins, No. 7 (14 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook, No. 7, same length.

Using two threads of the principal color cast on 46 stitches for the lower edge of sleeve. K. 2, p. 2 for 15 rows. Knit 40 rows (20 purl). Knit the first stitch on pin throughout. On the 41st row increase by knitting 2 stitches in the first and last stitches of row. Continue to increase, in this way, on every fifth row until there are 56 stitches on the pin, then work without increasing, until there are 90 rows (45 purls) in all, for the sleeve. Cast on 70 stitches, knit back on these stitches and the 56 sleeve stitches, then cast on 70 more stitches. On these 196 stitches knit 30 rows. On the next row, k. 32, bind off 6 stitches for belt opening of front, knit until 42 stitches remain unworked, then bind off 6 stitches for belt opening in back. On the next row, change to a single thread of contrasting color and knit back casting on the 12 stitches which were bound off for the openings.

The Cro-Knitting band is next to be made of contrasting color. Beginning at the lower edge of the front make first fancy row as follows: with crochet hook pull a loop through first stitch on the knitting pin, slip loop from pin, * pull a loop through next stitch, pull another loop through the back of same stitch, slip stitch from pin, pull a loop through front of next stitch and another through back of same stitch, hold stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, ch. 1, pull a loop through back stitch of cluster, then slip stitch from pin, wool over and repeat from * until one stitch remains, do not throw wool over after last cluster, draw loop through final stitch.

Second fancy row: k. 2, * k. the next stitch and the stitch that was thrown over together, k. 1 and repeat from * until 3 stitches remain, k. 3. Knit 2 plain rows. Repeat the two fancy rows, knit 2 plain rows and again repeat the two fancy rows, for the last fancy row changing to 2 threads of principal color. This completes the band. It will be noticed that the wrong side of the first fancy row is shown on the right side of band.

Knit 11 rows, on the first two of these rows making openings for belt as made on the other side of Cro-Knitting band. The last row ends at the lower edge of the back. Knit 98 stitches for the length of back and run remaining stitches on to a thread; turn, k. the first 2 stitches together then knit to the end of the row. At the end of the next row knit the last 2 stitches together to shape the neck. Knit 22 rows, then 2 rows, increasing 1 stitch on each row, at neck end. Run these stitches on an extra pin or thread but do not fasten off wool. Take another ball and make right front. Cast on 94 stitches with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, make 2 fancy rows of Cro-Knitting, knit 1 row, on the next row make button holes, as follows: k. 3, * bind off 3, k. 8 and repeat from *. Eight button holes, in all. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches opposite those bound off. Knit one row then repeat the two fancy rows, on the last of these change to principal color. Knit 8 rows, then 4 rows increasing 1 stitch at the neck end of each row. The last row should end at the neck. Fasten off wool.

Take the stitches of the back from the thread on to knitting pin beginning with the stitch at the lower edge of back and with the ball of wool left there, work to the lower edge of the front. Knit 11 plain rows, not forgetting the belt openings, then 1 row of contrasting color and repeat Cro-Knitting band as made on first side. Make second side of back and sleeve to match first side. After finishing the 15 rows of k. 2, p. 2 ribbing on second sleeve, knit 2 plain rows, of contrasting color, then repeat the Cro-Knitting band as made on body of garment, making four patterns instead of three to form turn back cuff. Make two extra plain rows and bind off.

Pick up the 46 stitches at bottom of first sleeve and on them knit second cuff to match first one made.

Take the 98 stitches from thread and on them knit the left front, as follows: knit 4 rows, decreasing by knitting 2 stitches together at the neck end of each row, then knit 16 rows plain and bind off on wrong side.

Pick up 52 stitches around neck with contrasting color and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy Cro-Knitting rows, knit 1 row. Eighth row: k. 3, bind off 3, knit to end. On the next row cast on the 3 stitches bound off for the button hole. Knit 1 row, 2 fancy rows, knit 1 row and bind off.

Belt: using contrasting color, cast on 134 stitches and knit 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 4 rows, 2 fancy rows, k. 2 rows then bind off on wrong side.

Sew up under arm seams and sleeves.

CUTAWAY JACKET.

Materials Required:

½ box Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, 4-fold.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 4, 14 inches long.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 4, same length.

Using the principal color, cast on 78 stitches and work, in Raspberry stitch, as follows:

First row: knit plain.

Second row: purl.

Third row: with crochet hook make 1 d. c. in first stitch, slip stitch from pin; * 1 d. c. through the next two stitches, keeping the stitches on knitting pin, 1 s. c. through the back of the same two stitches. Slip the two knitted stitches from the pin and repeat from * all along the row, ending with 1 d. c. in the final stitch.

Fourth row: purl.

Fifth row: knit.

Sixth row: like third. These six rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over again for the whole jacket. After four rows of clusters have been made, decrease by knitting together the two first and the two last stitches of the knitted row. Begin the next cluster row by working a whole cluster through the two first stitches on pin and end row in same manner through the two last stitches. Make one more row of clusters, in same way, then decrease, as before, on the knitted row. The next two cluster rows will begin and end with 1 d. c. in the first and last stitches.

Continue to decrease in this way, until six stitches in all have been decreased at each end. 66 stitches remain. After two more cluster rows have been made, increase, by knitting two stitches in the first and last stitches of the knitted row, and continue to increase after _each_ cluster row until 4 stitches have been added at each end. On these 74 stitches continue until the work measures about 23 inches, or is long enough to reach to the neck.

Divide for neck and shoulders, as follows: knit 28 stitches and run them on a thread or extra pin; bind off 18 stitches for neck and on the remaining 28 stitches begin the left front. Increase at the neck end, on each of the knitted and purled rows until there are 50 stitches on the pin. On these 50 stitches continue until four cluster rows have been made, then at front edge decrease 1 stitch on each of the knitted and purled rows, keeping the under arm seam straight until waistline has been reached; then increase at the under arm seam on the knitted and purled rows, every other time. Continue decreasing on front edge, as before. Work until front is as long as the back, and bind off.

Take the stitches from the thread and on them make the right front, as left was made, taking care to keep them opposites. Sew up the under arm seams, leaving enough space at the top for the arm holes.

BORDER. Around the entire garment and arm holes work, in plain crocheting, as follows:

First round: 1 s. c. in each stitch.

Second round: 1 d. c. in each stitch of preceding round, putting extra stitches on rounding corners to prevent capping.

Third round: 1 d. c. around the post of each d. c. of second round. No extra stitches on corners. When this round has been finished turn it back all around garment.

Using the contrasting color, work around outside edge, as follows: * 1 s. c. in stitch, ch. 3, another s. c. in same stitch, skip 1 stitch and repeat from * all around. Work the same finish all around the edge of the turned-back round, skipping one stitch between picots around neck and sleeves and on the rounding edges skipping two stitches between or enough to make the border perfectly flat.

Fasten the right front over the left with crocheted buttons and frogs made of the contrasting color. The frogs are made of a chain stitch cord, using two threads of the wool. Use washable button molds and crochet a covering for them, as follows: ch. 3 and join in a ring, 6 s. c. in the ring. Do not join. 2 s. c. in each stitch of the preceding round, then widen enough to make work flat until the desired size has been attained. Make 1 round without widening and then skip every other stitch until proper size. Slip in mold, draw up and sew in place.

Place three buttons and frogs on each under arm seam.

Lattice Work Scarf
]

LATTICE WORK SCARF.

Materials Required:

13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
4 skeins Bear Brand Rococo Wool.
1 amber or bone crochet hook, No. 5.
1 Lattice Pin, No. 1 (16 inches long).

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Using the Germantown and crochet hook, chain 62 and turn. Make 1 double crochet stitch (1 d. c.) in the fourth chain from the needle and 1 d. c. in each of the other chains. 60 d. c. in all, counting the three chains skipped as 1 d. c. Turn. The work should measure 14 inches in length and be ¾ of an inch high.

Second row: ch. 2, wool over and take up a loop through the front thread of the second stitch of previous row, wool over and through all three loops on needle, thus forming one short, double crochet stitch. Continue making 1 s. d. c. in each stitch to the end, always counting the chain made when beginning row as one stitch. Turn. 60 stitches.

Third row: chain 3, 1 d. c. in second and each succeeding stitch of previous row, taken through the double thread. 60 stitches.

Repeat second and third rows until there are five rows, in all, or the work measures 3 inches in depth; ending with a double crochet row.

The border is next to be made. Turn and * draw a loop through the back thread of first stitch and through the loop on needle, thus forming 1 slip stitch (1 s. s.). Repeat from * in each stitch of row. Turn. Make 1 single crochet stitch in each stitch of double crochet row taking up the back thread. Through the last stitch draw the Rococo wool and fasten off Germantown.

Lattice Work: draw up the loop of Rococo and slip it on the Lattice pin. This pin is held under the right arm firmly. Hold the wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook pull a loop of wool through the double threads of second stitch and slip it on the pin. Continue drawing one loop through each stitch to the end—60 loops on pin. Join on the Germantown and fasten off Rococo. Slip loops off the pin. * Draw the fourth, fifth and sixth loops, in turn, through the first three loops and make 1 s. c. in each loop as it is drawn through; then 1 s. c. in each of the first three loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn.

Repeat the four border rows over and over until there are five rows of lattice work. Then repeat the first, second and again the first row. When making the second rows the stitches are to be taken up on the back threads of the fourth rows.

The center is made as the second and third rows of scarf were made: the first row of d. c. being taken on back thread of border and all subsequent d. c. rows taken through the double thread. Make center 50 inches long, then repeat border. Make 5 rows to match beginning and then begin border down the side of scarf. Make a row of s. c. putting 3 s. c. in the end of each d. c. row and 2 s. c. in each s. d. c. row, or enough to make work flat. Across the end of each lattice row chain 3. Be sure this row contains a multiple of six stitches. Turn and slip stitch on the back thread of s. c. stitches and across the 3 chained stitches. Continue as border was made on ends until two rows of lattice work have been made, then repeat first, second and again the first border rows and fasten off. Finish second side in same manner. Across the ends put a knotted-in fringe in every fourth stitch. Put six strands of Germantown in each tassel and cut strands 12 inches long.

PORCH JACKET IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

5 skeins of Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
2 skeins contrasting color Germantown, for trimming.
1 pair No. 7 amber knitting pins, 10 inches long.
1 No. 7 amber crochet hook, with knob, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Using knitting pins and principal color, cast on 28 stitches and work in Automobile Stitch (see page 6) until there are four patterns of 14 clusters each. Then increase by picking up an extra stitch at each end of every afghan row until there are 26 clusters in the row. Make three patterns of 26 clusters when the work should be long enough to reach to the neck. On the next afghan row, pick up 19 loops with the one on pin, (20 in all) and make two patterns of 10 clusters each for the left shoulder. On next afghan row, increase one stitch at the neck end, make 2 knitted rows then turn, pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and pick up another loop in same stitch, wool over and through 3 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming a half cluster. Continue in regular way. On the next cluster row there will be eleven clusters. Continue increasing in this way, at neck end, ½ cluster on each cluster row, until there are 14 clusters in the row. Make four rows of 14 clusters. On the second knit row decrease as follows: k. 8, k. 2 together, k. 8, k. 2 tog., k. 8.

Decrease in the same way on each of the next 3 pattern rows, having 2 stitches less between the decreasings on each pattern.

Make 5 patterns of 10 clusters each, knit 3 rows and bind off.

Go back to the neck, skip 12 stitches and pick up the final 20 stitches for the afghan row. On these stitches make right front to correspond to left front.

Still using principal color, work around the entire jacket, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip enough space to make work lie flat and repeat from *. Draw a loop of the contrasting color through loop on hook. Ch. 1, draw up loop about ¾ of an inch, * wool over, pick up a loop in the chain space, wool over and pick up another loop in same space, wool over and through all 5 loops on hook, ch. 1, thus forming one cluster. Repeat from * all around jacket putting an extra cluster in each corner to prevent capping. Join with a slip stitch in the top of first cluster. Pull a loop of principal color through and make cluster round as before, putting clusters in the top of cluster of preceding round, followed by a round of clusters in contrasting color. Final round: use principal color, * 1 s. c. in top of cluster ch. 4, 1 d. c. in same space, skip 1 cluster and repeat from * all around.

Lace up under arms with ribbons.

ENGLISH SLEEPING SOCKS.

Materials Required:

2 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 2, 10 inches long.
1 No. 2 amber crochet hook, 10 inches long.

Cast on 72 stitches and purl one row.

Second row: k. 1, increase (by picking up and knitting the thread) k. 34, increase, knit 2, increase, k. 34, increase, k. 1.

Third and every alternate row: purl.

Fourth row: k. 2, increase, knit 34, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 for center, then reverse directions.

Sixth row: k. 1, increase, k. 39, increase, knit 2 and reverse.

Eighth row: k. 2, increase, k. 39, increase, k. 1, increase, k. 2 and reverse. Purl 1 row.

First pattern row: with crochet hook make 1 double crochet (see page 6 ) in the first stitch. * 1 d. c. through two taken together, 1 d. c. through the back of the same two and repeat from * ending with 1 d. c. in the last stitch.

Second row: k. 1, increase, purl the row, ending by purling the last 2 stitches together.

Third row: like first. Purl three rows.

Repeat the first and second rows.

Ninth row: k. 43, * slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over and repeat from *, k. 43.

Tenth row: p. 40, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 2, slip 1, k. 2 tog. pass the slipped stitch over, p. 40.

Eleventh row: (crochet) 1 d. c. * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 17 times, more. 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. through next 2 stitches, 1 d. c through next 2 and 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 (center) and reverse directions.

Twelfth row: purl 37, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, slip 1, k. 2 tog., pass the slipped stitch over, purl 37.

On the thirteenth row the instep tab is commenced. Knit 33, k. 2 tog., k. 6, k. 2 tog. Turn.

Fourteenth row: slip 1, purl 6, purl 2 tog. Turn.

Fifteenth row: slip 1, knit 6, knit 2 tog. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows.

Nineteenth row: slip 1, k. 6, k. 2 tog., k. 1. Turn.

Twentieth row: slip 1, purl 7, purl 2 tog., p. 1. Turn.

Twenty-first row: slip 1, k. 8, k. 2 tog. Turn.

Twenty-second row: slip 1, p. 8. p. 2 tog. Turn.

Repeat the last 2 rows until there are 40 stitches, in all, on the pins; then continue along the row, knitting the 15 stitches on the left hand needle. Purl 1 row.

First leg row: (crochet) 1 d. c., * 1 d. c. through 2, 1 d. c. in the back of same 2 and repeat from * 1 d. c. in final stitch. Purl 1 row.

Repeat first row.

Fourth row: purl 1, increase, purl the row ending by purling the last 2 stitches together.

Fifth row: k. 1, increase, knit along row, increase k. 1.

Sixth row: purl 3, increase, purl along the row, ending by increasing, then purling last 3.

Repeat the first and second rows, twice, then repeat the fifth and sixth rows.

Repeat these last 6 (six) pattern rows, twice, then make four plain rows of alternate knitting and purling and bind off. Sew up seams.

Bordered Scarf in Cro-Knitting
]

BORDERED SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

9 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss (12 skeins to the box).
2 skeins contrasting color Shetland Floss and
3 skeins same color Bear Brand Felicity Floss.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13.
1 amber crochet hook No. 13 (14 inches long).

Using two threads of the principal color cast on 50 stitches loosely and knit 14 rows (7 purls) in plain garter stitch. For the first stitch of each row, insert the needle as if to purl, slip stitch and put thread back under the point of the pin, thus forming a chain edge. The work should measure fifteen inches across and be three inches in depth.

The Cro-Knitting is next to be made. Draw two threads of the contrasting color through (one of Shetland and one of Felicity) but do not break off the principal color: knit two rows in plain garter stitch; then using same color and crochet hook make _first pattern row_. Insert the hook through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin, holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first stitch and chain 2; slip the knitted stitch from the pin. * Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through two, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.

Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 tog. and repeat from * all along row, knit final stitch. When knitting from the crochet hook the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

Third pattern row: with principal color knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch. Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color. These 8 rows constitute the pattern and are repeated five times for the border at each end of the scarf.

The center of scarf is plain garter stitch and is 45 inches long. Repeat border, then make 14 rows, in garter stitch and bind off.

Pick up all the stitches along one side of the scarf with principal color and crochet hook, taking up both stitches of chain as one stitch and taking up 3 stitches in each of the stripes of contrasting color; knit off with knitting pin, making 4 rows of garter stitch, then draw through contrasting color, dropping principal color and make two rows of garter stitch, next make the three pattern rows, then knit 3 rows of principal color in garter stitch and crochet off with slip stitch, binding off that side of scarf; repeat for the other side.

Make a fringe across the ends as follows: * insert the crochet hook in first stitch on bottom of scarf and with double thread of principal color, chain 10 loosely, pull up long loop on needle,—wool over, insert hook into last chain made and pull up long loop, repeat from—four times, wool over and through all loops on hook, chain 1, pull up long loop and catch with slip stitch in chain in which cluster was made, make a tight s. c. around chain. Chain 10, skip 7 s. c. on bottom of scarf, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * all across the end. With two threads of contrasting color, make 1 s. c. in fourth stitch and repeat fringe as made in principal color. To gain the cross effect, slip chain made and ball of wool through long loop of principal color before making the s. c. in the bottom of scarf. The fringe for each tassel consists of 10 loops of 20 chain stitches made with single thread to correspond.

Empire Scarf in Cro-Knitting
]

EMPIRE SCARF IN CRO-KNITTING.

Materials Required:

7 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss.
9 skeins Bear Brand Felicity Floss.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (14 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Wind the wools in separate balls.

Using a thread of each wool and the knitting pins, cast on 38 stitches, loosely. Knit two rows.

First pattern row: using crochet hook, knit two stitches, wool over and pick up a loop around third stitch of first foundation row, wool over and draw a loop through next stitch on pin, wool over and through 4 loops on hook, slip stitch from knitting pin thus forming one cluster. Knit the next stitch, * wool over, skip one stitch on first row and make cluster, (as before) around the next stitch and the stitch on pin, knit 1 stitch and repeat from * to the end of the row.

Second pattern row: k. 2 in the first and last stitches of preceding row and k. 1 in each intervening stitch.

Third pattern row: using crochet hook, k. 1, 1 cluster around end stitch of second pattern row and stitch on pin, k. 1, then work like first row, ending the row with knit 2.

Fourth row: like second.

Repeat these four rows until the scarf is the desired width, about 20 inches, then omit the widening stitches on the knitted rows, making all the crocheted rows like first row, until the work is 68 inches in length. Make second end of scarf to match first end; decreasing on each knitted row by knitting together the two first and two last stitches, being careful to preserve the pattern. When there are again 38 stitches on needle, bind off.

Down the side of scarf work scallop as follows: * 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, ch. 2, 1 double crochet stitch in same stitch, skip enough space to make work smooth and repeat from * to the end. This is ordinary crocheting.

Across the end work in knot stitch as follows: * draw up the loop on hook about ¾ in., wool over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of an s. c. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull wool through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it is called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to the first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat directions from *. Skip one stitch on edge of scarf and make 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from beginning all across edge. Make scallop on second side and finish second end like first.

Cut the wool for fringe in ten-inch lengths and knot 4 threads of each wool through the s. c. in the center of each knot stitch loop.

SCHOOL BAG IN LATTICE WORK.

Materials Required:

10 balls Bear Macramé, No. 100.
1 wood knitting pin, No. 1.
1 Star crochet hook, No. 1.
2 bone rings, at least 2 inches in diameter.

Using crochet hook, chain 101; turn, skip 1 chain and make 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in each chain to the end. The work should measure full 20 inches. If a deeper bag is desired, the row should contain a multiple of 4 stitches, but more material will be required.

Second row: turn and make 1 slip stitch, as follows, on the back thread of each stitch of preceding row: insert the hook and draw cord through stitch and the loop on hook.

Third row: turn, 1 s. c. in the back thread of each of the s. c. stitches of first row, being careful to work into first stitch which is inclined to draw down and be overlooked.

Lattice row: draw up a long loop and slip it on the knitting pin, draw working thread in place. The pin is held under right arm firmly. Hold wrong side of work toward you and with crochet hook * pull a long loop of cord through the double threads of second stitch, slip it on pin, draw working thread in place and repeat from * in each stitch of row. 100 loops on pin. Slip loops from pin.

Fifth row: turn, * draw the third loop through the two first loops and in it make 1 s. c., draw fourth loop through and in it make 1 s. c., then 1 s. c. in each of the first and second loops, thus forming the lattice. Repeat from * all along row. Turn. Repeat second and third rows, for the latter taking up the back thread of stitches of fifth row. The second, third, fourth and fifth rows constitute one pattern and are repeated until there are 14 lattice rows: then repeat the second and third rows. Fold in center and slip stitch together working on right side.

Make second bag in same manner.

Around the top of each bag crochet, as follows: beginning in the center heavy bar, of one side make 1 s. c. * ch. 2, 2 s. c. in next heavy bar and repeat from * all around ending with 1 s. c. in the center bar in which round was commenced, join and fasten off for one bag. For the second bag, after joining, draw up loop and work in knot stitch, as follows: draw up the loop on hook a _full_ ½ inch, cord over and through loop this time very short since it is really the first loop of a single crochet. Take up the second loop of the s. c. through the new long loop. Pull cord through the 2 loops on needle and the s. c. (or knot as it called) is finished. The present loop on the needle should be pulled up long and corresponds to first loop made. When it is pulled up, hold the knot just made between the thumb and forefinger and repeat from *. Skip 4 chains on the top of bag and make 1 s. c. in each of the next 2 stitches and repeat from beginning all around the top of bag.

Second row: make 3 loops and 3 knots, as before, to turn 1 s. c. through the double thread on right side of last knot of first row and another s. c. on left side of knot (skipping the s. c. worked in first row), * then 2 loops and 2 knots catching down in next knot of second row, with 2 s. c. Repeat from * across row, a perfect square of 4 loops being formed every time the loops are caught down.

Repeat second row until the center of knot stitch measures 12 inches then slip rings over and join on second bag to match first.

Around the opening formed by the knot stitch, make * 1 slip stitch in knot, ch. 3 and repeat from * all around.

AFGHAN WITH DIAMOND STRIPE.

Materials Required:

13 skeins Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
9 skeins contrasting color, Germantown, 8-fold.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9 (10 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

The Cro-Knitting stripe is made first. Cast on 26 stitches with the principal color. Knit two plain rows.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * across row, k. last stitch.

Fourth row: k. 2, * k. the over st., k. 1 and repeat from *.

Knit two rows plain.

Seventh row: with contrasting color and crochet hook, pull a loop through the first stitch, ch. 1 tightly, k. 1, wool over twice, pick up a loop, inserting hook from first to second opening in third row, wool over, through 2 loops on needle, wool over, pick up another loop in same space, wool over and through 3 loops on needle, again wool over and through 3 loops on needle, * k. the next two stitches tog., wool over twice, pick up a loop from the second to third opening in third row, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same place, wool over and through 3, again wool over and through 3 and repeat from * across row, k. the last 2 stitches.

Eighth row: with same wool and knitting pin, k. 3. * on the contrasting thread before the next stitch knit 1 stitch, then knit next stitch and repeat from *, knit last stitch.

With principal color knit 4 rows.

These last ten rows constitute one pattern.

Repeat 18 times when the stripe should be about 31 inches long and seven inches wide.

Bind off. Make 2 more stripes in same manner.

Diamond Stripe: cast on 13 stitches.

First row: knit plain.

Second row: k. 2, p. 9, k. 2.

Third row: knit plain.

Fourth row: like second.

Fifth row: k. 6, p. 1, k. 6.

Sixth row: k. 2, p. 3, k. 3, p. 3, k. 2.

Seventh row: k. 4, p. 5, k. 4.

Eighth row: k. 2, p. 1, k. 7, p. 1, k. 2.

Ninth row: like seventh.

Tenth row: like sixth.

Eleventh row: like fifth.

Repeat from the beginning of the second row.

These ten rows constitute one pattern and are made over and over again until stripe is same length as Cro-Knitting stripes. Make another stripe in same way.

Join the stripes alternately, with single crochet stitches worked on wrong side of afghan.

Border. Across each end, with contrasting color, make scallops, as follows: 1 s. c. in first stitch, ch. 2, * wool over needle twice, skip about 4 stitches, (arranging scallops so that there are 3 on the Cro-Knitting stripe and 1 in the center of Diamond stripe) pick up a loop, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up another loop in same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and pick up third loop in same place, wool over and through 2, wool over and through 4, wool over and through 2, ch. 2 and repeat from * twice, 3 clusters in same stitch, ch. 1, skip the required space, 1 s. c., ch. 1 and make same scallop all across.

With principal color make * 1 s. c. in first space of scallop, ch. 2, — 1 d. c. around the post at the top of first cluster, ch. 2, 1 s. c. in next space. Repeat from — twice. Ch. 2, 1 s. c. around the s. c. of row below, ch. 2 and repeat from * all across scallops.

Down each side, work as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 2, 1 d. c. around the s. c. just made, skip enough space to make work lie flat, 1 s. c., ch. 1, skip as before and repeat.

Persian Scarf
]

PERSIAN SCARF.

Materials Required:

13 skeins Bear Brand Shetland Floss.
4 skeins Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 13 (14 in. long).
1 amber crochet hook No. 13, same length.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 12 skeins of Shetland floss to the box. If the “8 skeins to the box” floss is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Wind the Shetland Floss in separate balls and use two threads. Cast on 200 stitches which should make length of scarf two yards.

First row: with two threads of Shetland and one of Persian Lamb used together knit each stitch: turn.

Second row: divide threads holding the Persian Lamb at the back of work, as regular knitting thread is used and the two threads of Shetland in front of work, toward left hand. * With crochet hook, pull a loop of Persian Lamb through first stitch, drop stitch from knitting pin then throw Shetland Floss over hook and draw it through the loop of Persian Lamb just made. Repeat from * in each stitch of previous row, always keeping Shetland Floss in front of work.

Repeat the first and second rows, twice.

Seventh row: drop the Persian Lamb wool temporarily, add two more threads of Shetland Floss and using the four threads together knit 2 rows in plain garter stitch.

Repeat first and second rows, then two rows as seventh row was made and again repeat first and second rows.

This completes the border. Fasten off the Persian Lamb wool and substitute for it two threads of Shetland Floss.

Repeat first and second rows alternately until there are 20 ridges, which should measure full 12 inches for the center of the scarf.

Repeat the border as made on the other edge and bind off.

Finish ends as follows: with two threads of Shetland Floss make 1 single crochet stitch in first stitch, * skip about an inch and a half along edge and make 13 treble crochet stitches (winding the thread over the hook twice) in next stitch, skip same space on edge and make 1 s. c. in the next stitch and repeat from *. There should be six of these large shells across end. Do not break off wool but work along the side of scarf, as follows: * 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c. around the post of the first s. c., skip 1 st. and repeat from * all along. Work the shells across second end and the scallop along second side, then fasten off.

With Persian Lamb wool work across ends, as follows: fasten wool in first stitch of previous row, * pull out loop 2 inches, pull wool through loop and make a tight ch. stitch to fasten it and repeat from * twice more, make 1 s. c. in same space on edge where wool was fastened 1 s. c. in first space of shell, ch. 1., skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next space of shell and repeat until the center stitch has been reached. There pull up loop and fasten as before, make another two-inch loop and fasten; then 1 s. c. in the middle space of shell. * Ch. 1, skip 1 space, 1 s. c. in next space and repeat from * twice, then 1 s. c. in the single crochet stitch between shells and repeat from the beginning of row.

POLISH AFGHAN.

Materials Required:

51 skeins Bear Brand Zephyr Germantown, 8-fold.
24 skeins contrasting color, 8-fold Germantown.
1 pair amber knitting pins, No. 9.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9 (14 inches long).

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

STRIPE IN CRO-KNITTING: with the principal color cast on 30 stitches and knit three rows. Do not break off wool.

Change to the contrasting color and knit 2 rows; then using same color and crochet hook make first pattern row. Insert the hook through the loop on the knitting pin as though it were a second knitting pin holding the wool over the fingers of the left hand. Draw wool through first stitch and chain 2. Slip the knitted stitch from needle. * Wool over from back to front and pick up a loop in second stitch on pin, wool over and through 2; wool over in same way and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through 2, slip the 2 knitted stitches that have been worked into from the pin and repeat from * all along row; ending with ch. 2 in final stitch as first stitch was made.

Second pattern row: with same wool and knitting pin, slip 1, * over, knit 2 together and repeat from * all along row. Knit final stitch. When knitting from the crochet hook, the point of the hook must be kept pointing downward to avoid catching the wool.

Third row: with principal color, knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from * ending with knit 1 in the final stitch.

Make three plain garter stitch rows in the principal color, followed by 2 garter stitch rows in the contrasting color.

These 8 rows constitute one pattern and are repeated over and over until the stripe measures 68 inches. Finish with the garter stitch row of principal color. This stripe should be 8½ inches wide.

Make three more stripes in Cro-Knitting.

Braided Twist stripe: with the principal color, cast on 19 stitches and knit first row.

Second row: knit 5, purl 9, k. 5.

Third row: k. 5, slip the next 3 stitches on to a spare pin and drop them _in front_ of the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped, k. 8.

Fourth row: like second.

Fifth row: knit plain.

Sixth row: like second.

Seventh row: k. 8., slip the next 3 stitches on to extra pin and drop them _behind_ the work, k. 3, knit the 3 stitches slipped off, k. 5.

Eighth row: like second.

Repeat these eight rows until the stripe is same length as the Cro-Knitting stripes. Make 2 more stripes of same length.

Join the stripes, one of each kind alternately, working with principal color in s. c. and on the wrong side.

The border around entire afghan is made of the braided twist stripe as the connecting stripes were made. Each corner is mitered as follows: cast on one stitch and in it knit 1 stitch, then knit a second stitch on the back thread of same stitch, thus increasing, turn, knit 2 stitches in first stitch, one stitch in next.

Continue increasing 1 stitch on each row always on the same side and being careful to carry out the directions for the pattern until there are 19 stitches on the pin. Keep outside edge straight. Then work until stripe is desired length and decrease by knitting together 2 stitches at the same end of every row as the increasing was done. Sew up the mitered corners and sew or crochet border on working from wrong side, as before.

ANGORA ROSEBUD CAP.

(Six months size.)

Materials Required:

3 balls (½ oz.) Three Rabbit Angora wool, or 9 small balls.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 3.

Work rather loosely.

Ch. 3 and join in a ring. Make six single crochet stitches (6 s. c.) in the ring. Do not join as the work is done around and around both threads of stitch of previous round being taken up throughout the work.

Second round: 2 s. c. in each stitch.

Third round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next two stitches and repeat from * all around.

Fourth round: * 2 s. c. in first stitch, 1 s. c. in each of the next 4 stitches and repeat from * all around.