Chapter III: Part 3

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Begin at the center of the crown by casting on 7 stitches.

First row: knit plain.

Second row: knit 1, but do not slip it from the needle, knit a second stitch on the back thread of same stitch, after which slip stitch from needle thus knitting 2 stitches in 1 stitch. Do this on each stitch—14 stitches on pin.

Third row: knit plain.

Fourth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 1 and repeat alternately throughout the row—21 stitches on pin.

Fifth row: knit plain.

Sixth row: k. 2 in first stitch, k. 2 and repeat throughout the row—28 stitches on pin.

Seventh row: knit plain.

Eighth row: increase in the usual way, but have 3 stitches between the increasings—35 stitches on the pin.

Increase in this way on every second row until there are 10 stitches between the increasings, when there will be 84 stitches on the pin. Knit back.

First row of front: knit and bind 5, then knit to other end. Repeat first row. 74 stitches will remain.

Third row: with crochet hook, wool over and pick up a loop in first stitch, wool over and through 2, slip stitch from knitting pin, thus making 1 double in the first stitch. * Wool over and take up a loop through the next 2 stitches together, wool over and through 2, wool over and make another double taking it through the back of the _same_ 2 stitches, then slip these stitches from pin. Repeat from * all across row, ending with 1 double in last stitch.

Fourth row: with knitting pin, knit 1, * over, knit 2 together and repeat from *: knit last stitch.

Fifth row: knit 1, * knit 1, knit the back of next stitch and repeat from *, knit 1. Make three rows of plain garter stitch. On these rows, for the first stitch, insert the pin, as if to purl, slip stitch and throw wool around the point of pin, then knit as usual.

These last six rows constitute one pattern. Make 3 _more_ patterns and fasten off wool carefully. Run the stitches on to a thread and sew up crown.

Pick up 50 stitches across the neck of the hood—19 across each front—12 across crown. Knit one row, as follows: k. 19, k. 2 together six times, k. 19.

Third row: k. 1, * over, k. 2 tog. and repeat from * ending with k. 1.

Fourth row: plain knitting, taking the over thread as one stitch.

Make 8 more rows of garter stitch, slipping first stitch as directed and bind off.

Pick up 6 stitches along first end of the neck rows, take the stitches from the thread on to the pin again and pick up 6 stitches along the other end of the neck rows.

First row: slip 1, k. 29, * k. 2 tog., k. 4 and repeat from * until 30 stitches remain, knit 30.

Make eleven rows of garter stitch, then repeat the first four rows of the Cro-Knitting pattern. Make 5 rows of k. 2., p. 2 ribbing and bind off.

Fold back the front for a turn over and trim hood with ribbons.

DAISY AFGHAN.

Materials Required:

1 box Cream White Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
1 box Pink or Blue Germantown, 8-fold.
2 skeins White Bear Brand Germantown, 4-fold.
2 skeins 4-fold Germantown in same color as the 8-fold.
3 skeins Glossilla Rope, Yellow, No. 515.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 5, 10 inches long.

(NOTE—_These directions are based on 16 skeins to the box Germantown. If the “10 skeins to the box” wool is used, the number of skeins required will be proportionately less._)

Each block is made separately and should be about 6 inches square. Using the white 8-fold Germantown, chain 30 and make two rows in plain afghan stitch. (See Afghan Stitch Stripe, page 36.)

Third row pick up the loops and work back on them, as usual, for 15 loops, then chain 5 and draw through loop (to form a popcorn) and work off the remaining 14 loops. These chain stitches should be pulled to the front of work.

Fourth and every alternate row is plain afghan stitch.

Fifth row: pick up all loops, then work off 11 loops, 1 popcorn, 1 loop plain, 1 popcorn, 4 plain loops, 1 popcorn, 1 plain loop, 1 popcorn, 10 plain loops. This makes two popcorns on each side of the four center loops with 1 plain loop between the two popcorns on each side. This one loop is always worked between the popcorns and no further mention will be made of it.

Seventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 10 center loops.

Ninth row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 16 center loops.

Eleventh row: 2 popcorns on each side of the 20 center loops. This is the middle row of the block.

Hereafter the number of loops in the center of row is decreased as they were increased, always having one plain afghan stitch row between the fancy rows until the row having one popcorn in the center has been made. Make 2 plain rows to match beginning of block, then work off as follows: pick up first perpendicular thread, as usual, drawing the wool also through the loop on hook. Continue to work in this way in each perpendicular thread to the end of the row and fasten off. Make 15 white blocks, in all, and 15 blocks of the selected color. Join the blocks with single crochet stitches, working on the wrong side. Alternate colors in both width and length, the afghan being six blocks long and five blocks wide.

BORDER: using the cream white wool, make a round of double crochet stitches, putting 1 d. c. in each stitch, with extra stitches at the corners to prevent capping. This round should be perfectly flat. Join at the end of each round.

Second round: using the colored wool, make * 2 d. c. in first stitch, ch. 1, 2 _more_ d. c. in the same stitch, ch. 1, skip 2 stitches of previous round and repeat from * if a ruffled border, as illustrated, is desired. If less fullness is wanted, skip 4 stitches instead of 2. Skip fewer stitches at the corners.

Third round: using white wool, make * 4 d. c. in the center of first shell, 1 d. c. between the shells and repeat from * all around.

Fourth round: using the color, make * 1 slip stitch, as follows: draw wool through stitch of previous round and _also_ through loop on hook. Chain 3 and repeat from * in each stitch of third round. Fasten off.

The daisies are embroidered in the loop stitch with 4-fold wool, a colored one in the center of each white block and a white one in each colored block. All the centers are worked in French knots with the yellow Glossilla.

AFGHAN WITH PERSIAN LAMB STRIPES

Materials Required:

¾ box Bear Brand Germantown, 8-fold.
5 skeins, Bear Brand Persian Lamb Wool.
1 amber crochet hook, No. 9.

Using the Germantown, chain 100 and work in double star stitch, as follows: skip chain next to hook and take up a loop through each of the next 5 chains, (6 loops on hook). Have the first 3 loops quite short, the other 3 loops long. Wool over hook and through all 6 loops, ch. 1 snugly.

Second star: take up a loop through eye of first star (the little hole formed by the stitch just made), another through the back twist of last loop of first star, making 3 loops on hook. These are held quite short; 3 more loops, pulled long, are taken up, the first in the same stitch with last loop of first star and 1 loop each in the next 2 chs. There are again 6 loops upon the hook. Finish as with first star. Repeat second star until the length of chs. has been used up, then fasten off. The row should contain 48 stars and should measure thirty inches in length.

Second row: fasten wool at the very beginning of top of first row, ch. 3, take up a loop each in second and third chs. from hook, a fourth loop in back of first loop in star below, a loop in eye of star below and a sixth loop in back of first loop of second star below. Finish as usual. Second star, take up second and third loops as in stars on the first row and fourth, fifth and sixth loops as in star just made, finishing as usual. Work across as with second star and again finish off.

The last loop of final star is taken in back loop of final star of first row. Be sure there are as many stars as in first row.

Repeat the second row twice or until the stripe measures three and one-half inches in depth. Draw Persian Lamb through the very beginning of last row and make 1 single crochet stitch there. Continue making 1 s. c. in each stitch to end of row, chain 1 and turn. Work 4 _more_ rows in Persian Lamb, putting 1 s. c. in each stitch of preceding row and taking up both threads of stitch. The Persian Lamb stripe should be two inches deep.

Change to Germantown and make stripe, as before. Continue alternating the Persian Lamb and Germantown stripes until there are 5 Germantown stripes, in all.

Border: using the Persian Lamb, work all around the afghan in single crochet, widening at corners by putting 3 s. c. in each corner on first round; putting 2 s. c. in each corner on second round. Alternate first and second rounds for the depth desired.

INFANT’S JACKET IN SQUARES.

Materials Required:

2 skeins, Bear Brand Zephyr Shetland.
2 skeins, Bear Brand Pompadour.
1 bone crochet hook, No. 1.

The entire jacket is made in the ordinary crocheting.

The work is begun at the neck with the Pompadour wool. Chain 147, turn, skip 1 ch., 1 single crochet stitch (1 s. c.) in the next, * ch. 4, skip 4 chs., 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * to the end of the row. Fasten off.

Second row: go back to the beginning of first row and using the Zephyr Shetland, make 4 double crochet stitches (4 d. c.) in each chain loop across row drawing up the stitches so they are three-eighths of an inch high. Fasten off at the end of each row and begin next row at the other end.

Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s.c. in the first stitch * ch. 4, 1 s. c. in the space between clusters and repeat from * all across, ending with 1 s. c. in the final stitch of previous row.

Every other row is made like the third row and no further mention will be made of it.

Fourth row: like second row until 6 clusters have been made. Make 3 d. c. in the next s. c. (thus increasing), make 8 clusters, increase as before, 9 clusters, increase, 6 clusters to end.

Sixth row: use Zephyr Shetland. Make 6 clusters, increase, 1 cluster, increase again (thus commencing first shoulder), 18 clusters across back, increase, 1 cluster, increase, 6 clusters. Every other row is made of the Zephyr Shetland.

Eighth row: 6 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 3 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.

Tenth row: 6 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 19 clusters, increase, 5 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.

Twelfth row: 6 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 10 clusters, increase, 9 clusters, increase, 7 clusters, increase, 6 clusters.

Fourteenth row: 6 clusters then fasten off. This is the first short row of left front. On it work the pattern rows 5 times, 6 rows in all. On the second and every d. c. row increase in the s. c. preceding the final cluster to shape the arm hole.

The short rows for the back are next to be made.

Skip to the other side of second increasing of shoulder, work to first increasing on second shoulder and fasten off. Work 6 rows in all across the back, increasing in the center of every second row.

The right front is made like the left, increasing at the beginning of rows instead of at the end.

First long row below the arms, work with Pompadour wool, as usual, across the first front, ch. 4, work across back, ch. 4 and across second front. On this row repeat the pattern rows until there are 8 cluster rows, on these cluster rows increasing in the center of back on every other cluster row. The last row will be a Pompadour row. Do not fasten off, turn, work up the front around neck and down second front. Fasten off. With the Zephyr Shetland make 4 single crochet stitches in each loop around the bottom and down the fronts.

Begin at the neck of left front and with the Pompadour make * 1 d. c. in the second s. c. below, then 1 d. c. in the first s. c., crossing it over first d. c. Repeat from * around the three sides of jacket. In the 4 stitches of each corner work the 2 crossed d. c. in one stitch, to keep the corners full enough for the succeeding rows.

Second border row: with Zephyr Shetland make 1 d. c. in each stitch of previous row, taking up both threads of stitch.

Third row: use Pompadour and make 1 s. c. in each stitch, taking up both threads.

Fourth row: like second. Turn and make 1 s. c. in first stitch, * ch. 3, 4 d. c. in same stitch, skip 3 stitches along edge, 1 s. c. in the next and repeat from * around jacket and neck. Join and fasten off.

Sixth row: use Pompadour and work on the right side. Make 1 s. c. in the center skipped stitch on fourth row, * ch. 3, 1 s. c. in top of ch. loop on fifth row, ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., ch. 3, 1 s. c., all in the same loop, ch. 3, 1 s. c. in center of next 3 skipped stitches on fourth row, and repeat from *. Join and fasten off.

Sleeve. Make a foundation row of chains and s. c. in Pompadour, beginning at one end of the yoke and working down and around the arm hole to the opposite point of the yoke. This row when completed, corresponds to the third row.

Second sleeve row: work clusters in Zephyr Shetland. Continue in pattern without increase, until there are 13 cluster rows, in all. Next cluster row make 3 d. c. in each cluster instead of 4 d. c. On the next Pompadour row, ch. 3 instead of 4. Make a cluster row having 2 d. c. in each cluster, followed by a Pompadour row having 2 chs. to each loop. The sleeve should be the proper size for the wrist. Sew up. Finish with a border like that around the body of jacket and fasten off. Make second sleeve like first.

Through the open neck row run a cord chained of Zephyr Shetland and finished with tassels of the same.

KEEPING THE ENDS EVEN.

Few crocheters realize the importance of exactly following directions for the ends of rows. Skipping an occasional stitch seems a small matter to many, when that stitch comes at the end of the row and an occasional added stitch is decreed to be equally trivial. Yet frequently they spoil the work. Many a woman while making an afghan, after hours have been spent, finds that her work is all crooked, going off at an unexpected angle, although she may have followed directions exactly, excepting as to the ends. If you want straight edges, learn how the ends must be worked and make each row exactly as it should be.

TO STRAIGHTEN KNITTED OR CROCHETED FLAT WORK.

Wring out white cotton cloth in cold water. Spread cloth on table, then place article on cloth with the right side up, and pin in the desired shape. Cover with a clean, _dry_ cloth and let it remain until entirely dry.

TO WASH WOOLEN ARTICLES.

Have lukewarm water in which some pure white soap has been dissolved. Soak the garment ten minutes, then squeeze out (not wring), removing the stains by squeezing between the hands.

Rinse through two waters, each of the same temperature as the water in which garment was soaked.

Most important is the drying process. If possible, lay the garment flat on a sheet where it will dry quickly. If a sweater or large garment is to be dried, it should first be dropped in the bottom of a pillow slip or cheese-cloth bag, the slip hung up by the open end and the garment be allowed to drip until nearly dry. Then spread on a sheet to dry, drawing the garment into shape from time to time and turning frequently. If it _must_ be hung up, hang evenly.

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BEAR BRAND MANUAL OF HANDIWORK

The recognized authority on the arts of knitting and crocheting has nearly two hundred pages, full of illustrated instructions. It is a fund of knowledge, as well as pleasure, for beginners and experts.

It describes the famous BEAR BRAND YARNS and tells how to use them for making many beautiful garments, giving explicit directions from the first stitch to the last one.

If you have enjoyed the work as planned in this Cro-Knitting book you should certainly have the MANUAL which has been compiled with equal care. If you are not interested now, you will doubtless become so upon seeing the many beautiful pictures it contains of garments photographed on living models.

The “Boy’s Military Outfit” illustrated is one of the 250 new designs described in the latest edition.

Ask your dealer for the Bear Brand Manual or send 25 cents in stamps or coin to

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained. ● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_. ● Enclosed blackletter font in =equals=.